At what point during the game are the Witch's legs supposed to be revealed under the house?

I can adjust my Spinning House Witch's legs in the test mode - they work perfectly.

Unfortunately, they never work during a game when I start a Munchkin mode. I can see the door struggle, but it won't open.

I've tried increasing the coil strength to open the door (even though the door opened fine in test). I've also tried adjusting the house to be slightly off in test, thinking it would correct itself during an actual game. (I'm thinking the spin adjustment in test mode does not accurately reflect the final house position during a game.)

In any case, they just won't work during a game no matter how I try to adjust it in test.

Has anybody experienced this and/or know of a solution to get the feet to display properly during a game?

Thanks. Got it adjusted. Seems the only real way to get the witch's feet to work is with the glass off in a "pseudo game."

Test mode is a bust.

JJP will absolutely provide support. They may not provide free parts, but they will continue to offer all troubleshooting support if there are any issues that may occur in the future.

I had contacted JJP directly with this exact concern, and got the answer straight from the source.

Get the Cliffy Munchkin Playfield Edge protector. It's a bit of work to install as you have to remove the upper playfield, but this exposed edge is prone to damage from flying balls, so worth the effort.

The Witch Well mod is really simple to install and can be purchased separately from the Castle Walls. The Walls are a bit more work to install, but still pretty easy. The Witch's Well is a vast improvement over the Witch in the clear tube.

Also make sure there is mylar around Haunted Forest pop bumpers and the state balloon bumper/target area.

It's not clear when you say "each time the house spins I get a different result." Is that each time it spins in test, or each time during a game (without ever making an adjustment in settings)?

The only way to test it accurately for me was during a game, NOT during the test mode. It is now working consistently when I play.

Just disregard the test mode for the spinning house, and continue to tweak the numbers based on the end position of the house by manually starting a munchkin mode with the glass off in a real game.

Test mode ending-position just didn't match the actual ending-position when in a real game.

If your alignment is different every time during a game without ever making an adjustment in settings, then your problem is different and could be mechanical. Unfortunately, I am not aware of a mechanical motor adjustment.

There are threads documenting playfield damage in the area between the haunted forest bumpers and state fair balloon bumper.

This occurred on some random early editions. Best to make sure there is mylar in that area (it was missing on early models.)

I think turning down the power to these bumpers is a good precautionary move. I turned mine down, and they are still plenty strong. The default power was overkill.

The manual is also available for viewing directly from your Woz LCD display.

You can select it in the diagnostics menu.

If you're in Rescue Multiball, three hits are needed to complete each required shot. So this rule prevents cradling to repeat the Crystal Ball shot three consecutive times without hitting another switch first.

And the right tools and equipment.

Get TSPP. Seriously.

Are there any known tweaks to improve the consistency of making the ramp shot?

Do others get frustrated with the ramp, especially from the right flipper?

I'm open to any suggestions other than improve my aim. I can make the shot, but rejects are more common.

I'll give novus a try. The shot is doable, but I feel it should be more reliable.

If I have too much flipper power, the rejects increase. Too low, and there's not enough strength to go up to playfield.

It's most consistent from a cradle, but I'd like to tweak it so the shot was more common on the fly. There's something that just seems slightly design deficient.

I'll look at the flipper angle too. I appreciate the suggestions.

Lloyd,

It sounds like a hassle, but may still be worth it if someone is doing a playfield swap anyway.

It would be great if JJP provided kits and instructions for owners who have crappy ecle playfields they are swapping, especially if they are going to incur the cost to upgrade themselves.

I'm not saying he's wrong, but it's better to reach a conclusion after getting both sides of the story.

It would sure be nice if they could just sell it for $800 without the threat of an increase. It's not like they are offering a lower price because they need to clear them out.

This is an item that ECLE owners wish was never needed, and nobody 'wants' to spend the cash just to make their games work like they should have.

I totally agree. I already replaced my faulty chipping play field because it was defective from the factory.

I had my replacement playfield professionally clear coated at my own expense before paying even more for the swap.

Why?

A 70 minute game could benefit from the break that a physical ball lock would provide.

(Great score, by the way. )

I'd check the switch in the throne room to make sure it's consistent.

Can someone post a pic of how three wires connect to the 3 lugs on the lower pf upper flipper? (The skill shot flipper).

Anybody have advice on fixing my Wicked Witch? It doesn't raise all the way up.

In test, it appears to bind going up, but I can assist it with a little push with my finger. It just won't do it on its own

I think the metal rod that slides through the motor is the issue. It looks mostly straight. That rod is flimsy and not easy to make perfectly straight.

The issue could also be the motor is weak and if it were stronger it would work past the section where it gets caught. The motor seems strong enough though.

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks for the suggestions. I removed the witch and used some white lithium grease and kept bending it slightly until I got it working.

It really took forever to show any consistency. It would work 10 times and then get stuck on the 11th. I think if I sneeze it may stop working. But for now it's been steady. Thanks for the help!

Tell me something good.

I've have two of the bigger 7.5 LED boards that I had as backups that I never used.

W1 Board. 7.5 volts LED (Fish Board, never installed ) $250 on JJP site
W9, WOZ 7.5V TNPLH RGB (also never installed) $150 on JJP site

I'm thinking $70 for the pair, free shipping... PM if interested.

http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/?search=woz%207.5

EDIT: SOLD

I think this has been discussed to death but what is the deal with Monkey Magnet sensor switch D06?

My monkey picks up the ball and drops it at the castle correctly. No problem with how it's supposed to play.

The problem is the actual error. Why does my game show a bad switch error when everything works fine?

Is anyone familiar with this?

I've checked the monkey magnet sensor switch during test.

It doesn't appear to visually trigger on the LCD display during the test when I roll a ball. Only two of the three squares go green when the ball rolls past. And I get an error at bootup indicating a bad switch D-06.

But during a game, (after qualifying by hitting the blue targets,) the top magnet will 98% catch the ball correctly, and the monkey will always grab it and carry it to the castle and release it up there. Works like it should.

I'd like to know why it shows a bad switch error. How do I fix it so I don't see the error message?

This looks like it fixed it. Thanks.

It took a few flips of the sensor board, but the error is gone.

Is it possible to convert the spinner to an opto switch?

Has anyone done it? I think it would be an improvement to have less friction for lighter shots to get through.

I'll give that a try. Thanks.

How exactly are the spins from the spinner incorporated into the rules of the game?

If the spins don't advance progress toward something, they aren't worth the increased difficulty in making the shot.

Is it possible to swap an ECLE hard drive into a YBR?

Would that solve the software problem?

I used a mac laptop. Try a different (larger) thumb drive.

I had the same problem but switching portable drives made it work.

Size is probably okay. I suppose the new OS could be an issue. I did it with Lion but it failed at first until I tried a different usb thumb drive.

It still could make sense to try a different drive.

Pro tip:

When removing machine screws that have been secured with loctite, heat it up with a soldering iron before unscrewing.

The heat will loosen the loctite bond.

Are you still able to cradle a ball? The pf might not be perfectly level by design.

If you change the pf angle, you may lose the rebound effect. If you can cradle the ball as it is now, it's probably ok. If the ball rolls toward the tip preventing the ability to cradle, then yeah, the angle would need an adjustment.

I was able to drastically increase the playability of the castle playfield by moving the left post at the exit to the right hole (closer to the flipper.)

After doing this, the ball had a significantly greater tendency to bounce back toward the flipper keeping it in play.

It requires a focused effort to drop the flipper waiting for the rebound, and then immediately cradle before the next shot.

I can't imagine making this trade.

I'm surprised there's a market for a reduced feature game that costs more..

I'll admit I've spent a lot upgrading my ECLE with a Kruzman cc pf and 2.0 boards plus limited edition mods, but if YBR's sell for over 10k, I feel ok.

I thought the better insurance is having 2.0 boards.

The supply of early boards is dwindling, and old boards are not being remade.

I'd rather have the same upgrade that JJP chose to make if parts are needed in the future.

The cost of the upgrade is not wasted - it will add value because fewer people want a game with old boards.

Yep. And for me, the reliability of 2.0 outweighs the dimness.

It's great to have a stockpile of old boards because they have proven to eventually fail. That gets old.

It's better to have 2.0 because you don't have to fuck with them failing anymore. Also better for retaining value.

It might not be a timing issue.

It's not an uncommon problem for more than one ball to release, and/or no balls release (ball gets stuck on release bar. )

The fix is mechanical, not in settings.

Check this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/munchkin-house-ball-search-issue#post-2943522

What do you think is causing the problem if the setting has never been changed?

Fix the source of the problem and you won't have to periodically adjust your settings to compensate.

Some may get tired of constant adjustments. And eventually the settings may no longer have any effect.

Yep, I had the same problem. The coil could not be removed separately. But JJP did have the Winkie coil assembly available when I called them. This was the fix for me when fuse 710 kept blowing.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-problem-fuse-710#post-6474707

Nope, the mini coil is riveted on the Woz assembly.

I initially ordered the drop target assembly from The Shadow. It is the same mini coil, and it's removable from the TS assembly.

But the WOZ assembly is different and basically impossible to just swap a separate coil onto the Woz assembly.

Totally lame the way it was made for Woz.

Trust me, I tried. Very difficult to drill.

I struggled to reuse the original assembly using a dremel to remove the rivets.

It was a slow train wreck before my cheap ass had to finally admit defeat and order the proper assembly.

The problem for me was the short occurred inside the mini coil as it heated during MTW.

It was very difficult to track down. Once I replaced the mini coil, the 710 fuse stopped blowing. I created an entire thread about it.

Of course it's still possible his problem could be caused by something else.

The coil reset assembly part number was given to me when I called JJP directly:

JJP Part Number 51-005020-00

Pinball life looks like it has the same part.

https://www.pinballlife.com/drop-target-knockdown-assembly-left.html

Is there a reason for a new operating system? Why fix it if it ain't broke?

What features are being added to compel an upgrade?

I think 2.0 boards would change the price a little. They're the latest upgraded version and if given a choice, most buyers would prefer them.

I've seen many 7.5 boards sold in the used market as backups to older machine owners in case they stop being solid.

Just add 2.0 boards and the resale price will go up and it will be easier to sell too. win-win.

It's great that some 7.5 games have had no problems yet, but it's still a potential risk.

The old games running 7.5 are less desirable so the price should be cheaper.

Check out this thread regarding Fuse 710. For me, it was the winkie drop down coil. It seemed to get hot and cause a short, blowing the fuse during Melt the Witch. Challenging to troubleshoot because it occurred intermittently.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-problem-fuse-710#post-5494960

I recall that coil was riveted to its base, and could not be removed separately.

Unless they changed the part for later runs, the whole target assembly with the coil will need to be purchased.

It's the animation you see when you score high enough to earn a replay.

It's all score based.