(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

5 years ago

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  • 9,354 posts
  • 517 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by vireland
  • Topic is favorited by 236 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (5 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (3 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (7 months ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (7 months ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (6 months ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (6 months ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (5 months ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#7341 6 months ago

So, my wife and I have a WOZ standard from 2016, our first ever pinball machine. We still have it after 3 years, and I doubt it's leaving anytime soon.

I'm considering powdercoating the stainless steel (current picture below) I've seen the job Robert Stone (I think his name is) does, and he's fantastic. He does an emerald green sparkle color on many of these. He can also do a ruby red sparkle color. (He can do literally any color you ask for). I'm considering doing something a little bold, like sparkle yellow with blue or red flake in it. But, with YBR out now, my yellow idea isn't as fresh.

Any suggestions? I think yellow with subtle sparkle or flake would look great. But almost any color would work on that game, so many colors are featured.

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1 month later
#7969 4 months ago
Quoted from sonambulo:

I'm thinking of buying an ECLE version of WOZ pinball, but the seller told me that the machine is running the 7,5V light boards. The seller said that he didn't had any issue with the lighting.
Should I be worried if I finally get it?

I bought my WOZ new in 2016, it was manufactured in 2015 and has version 1.1 light boards, which are the 7.5v. I still own it, and have put about 700 plays on it without incident. I have been fortunate, as I know this is a common problem. I’m just wondering how common. Does anyone know, perhaps from JJP discussions? Is it a 50/50 proposition? Or is it happening to most owners of pre-2.0 boards? I know the upgrade isn’t cheap. I assume it’s not free either from JJP, even though they replaced the 1.0 and 1.1 boards in manufacture?

I’m just grateful my game has worked perfectly so far, but I’m concerned that it could fail. I hope the 2.0 boards are avail for many years!

#8001 4 months ago
Quoted from Daditude:

What are the "must-have" mods for WOZ?
I have a WOZ ecLE with the emerald city mod, witch smoke mod, back alley walls mod, decals, ramp mod, cliffys, leg protectors, and the lighted drop target mod. I definitely want to get the flying monkey too...but what else?
Lighted tree eyes?
WOZ figures?
Any great apron cards?

I really like the Haunted Forest LED strip that Mezel Mods offers. It adds considerable light to the very dark forest area, and turns it purple. I can see a lot more of the artwork there now, and the left orbit shot through the pops isn't quite so blind. Blades for the inner cab sides are awesome on this pin. I like Tilt Graphics. We added a little plastic bridge over the left sling, and some wooden-looking fence posts along the shooter lane. Looks nice!

1 week later
#8211 3 months ago
Quoted from Daditude:

Pics or it didn't happen!

Here’s the haunted forest with led mod. Much brighter!

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#8317 3 months ago

Just wanted to mention how impressed I am at the technical advice being given out above. I’m sure it must be maddening to pay $10k for a new pin and not receive a fully working model. I bought a NIB GB in 2017, my second pin after WOZ. I had no issues with WOZ, but GB didn’t work for weeks until a coil and entire node board were replaced, by me, at a time when I had zero experience with pinball repair/maintenance. I felt the same way, $7k+ and the game doesn’t work 100%? I am glad I stuck it out, I still own my GB and WOZ.

Bravo for all the incredibly detailed recent technical support in this thread. So much time devoted to helping other people is fantastic!

4 weeks later
#8597 84 days ago

I need to take a look at where my posts are in the outlanes, especially the left outlane. I checked my audits a few weeks ago and noticed how often TNPLH ball save is successful. I was stunned to see something like 3 successful saves out of maybe 200+ attempts. I have the settings on that ball save at easy, with a full minute to complete, with extra time awarded for shots made. I still drain 95% of the time before saving my ball. The only times I’ve saved it, it was by allowing progress to be saved and trying with a 2nd or 3rd ball. (I know, play better). I’m an ok player, especially on my own pins. Do others have this much trouble with the left ball save?

#8649 81 days ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Those on the fence don't want to miss out on that, should it happen.

I bought my NIB WOZ in 2016, it was born in late 2015. It has the 1.1 boards, after they went from 5.0 to 7.5 volts I believe. But I don’t think mine are 2.0. They say 1.1 on them. I have about 700 plays on it, without any issues thus far. I am concerned that the 2.0 kit might become limited or difficult to get. It’s not cheap to buy the entire set of boards I imagine. I wish I had more clarity on how reliable the version 1.1, 7.5v boards are. I hear people have had issues, and others have had none. Difficult to gauge.

#8652 81 days ago

Thanks, I appreciate the comments. I think the smart play is to buy the 2.0 kit and keep it until a problem arises. If I sell it someday, the 2.0 boards will help with the sale, even if the 1.1 version hasn’t failed yet.

#8653 81 days ago

Are these 2.0 light board kits available anywhere still? Jersey Jack is sold out.

#8656 81 days ago

Awesome, thanks!

#8660 81 days ago

Another good point, thanks! JJP responded this morning and said more 2.0 light boards will be avail in about a month. I will order a complete set and convert my WOZ when I have them.

#8671 80 days ago

It seems a bit puzzling to me that JJP acknowledged they built and shipped pins (mine was built Nov, 2015) with a faulty light system, corrected the problem with a new 2.0 system, but requires $800 from the buyers to fix it. Wouldn’t offering the fix kit to original buyers at JJP’s cost be fair? Especially since we still have to invest the labor? Just a thought.

#8687 80 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

They are selling it at cost and put a lot of time into developing the kit in the first place. If they gave everyone the kit for free, everyone would take one. Why not? Lets say there are 2,000 WOZs with the old system. That would be a $1.6 million cost for JJP. Let’s say there are 3,000. That would be $2.4 million. I’m not sure what the actual numbers are, but the out of pocket expense adds up quickly. JJP is not Apple. Smaller companies can’t always afford to do what larger companies can. I think it is amazing that JJP took the time in putting together the kit in the first place and offering support for those who need to do it. When you see the kit, you will realize it was no trivial task putting it all together.

I have no doubt it was no trivial task. I understand they developed that system to use in The Hobbit, Dialed In, POTC, etc. If that’s true, they didn’t simply produce a 2.0 system only for WOZ. But even if they had, what was their alternative? Leave hundreds or possibly thousands without functioning lights on their first ever pinball machine? That may not have been a realistic option. I’m certainly glad they offer kits at all, and leaving thousands of WOZ owners in the dark to find their own solution would not bode well for their success.

#8688 80 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

You will never see it officially stated publicly. Liability.
But people involved have talked about the core design of the 1.x (all flavors, none of the band-aid 1.1, 1.2, etc fixes actually work long-term because the core DESIGN is bad) system being flawed and broken. Hence the reason JJP moved on with the 2.0 system from RR WoZ onward without lighting issues.

Only because some people continue to believe that it's an "IF" as to whether their currently rock-solid 1.x system will fail when there's no "IF" about it. It WILL fail prematurely, but people whose WoZ 1.x is currently fully working are just not believing that's possible, when in fact, it's inevitible based on the flawed design.

I personally didn’t believe my version 1.1 was “rock solid,” I simply wondered how common the failure rate was, because I’ve put 700 plays on mine without a problem. That doesn’t convince me that all is well, I just hadn’t read anything until now that helped me understand my pre-2.0 system is virtually certain to fail at some point. That’s all. I’m not speaking for anyone else, of course, I’m just explaining why I asked how likely I would need a 2.0 upgrade. Thanks for the discussion about why the design is faulty and can’t sustain normal function forever. Makes sense to me now. I’m going to get the new kit ASAP and not wait.

#8701 78 days ago
Quoted from rai:

Is it still under warranty?
Do you get free repair on cars etc when not under warranty?

Free repairs? Auto manufactures issue recalls when they realize a defective design. Those are usually free. This is a defective light board. Even if the labor is on us owners, the correct light boards should be free to anyone who bought a NIB WOZ. Just my opinion.

#8705 78 days ago

Just my personal opinion, I feel the light boards are an integral part of the game. Passing on the cost of the corrected parts as well as labor to the buyer seems unfair to the buyer, especially NIB buyers who paid full retail. I may be wrong!

#8711 76 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Look, I'm not happy about the situation at JJP or Stern, but people that are pulling examples out of their butts for OTHER INDUSTRIES that just completely FALL APART on closer examination should not be allowed to let that pass (i.e. the WoZ light comparison. That level of premature failure outside of warranty happens ALL THE TIME in the Auto industry. They only own up when they are forced to by the government). If people make fair comparisons? I'm there. Pulling irrelevant, false examples out of their butts? Nope.

I was merely pointing to the fact that it's not unheard of for some companies to stand by their products in times where there are admitted defects. Not all companies, not all industries. It was just an example. You seem passionate about the auto industry, something I don't know much about. It wasn't a testament about the auto industry, which I know nothing about. I wasn't suggesting the two industries were remotely the same. I was simply responding to the comment someone made about free auto repairs. But thank you for not letting my comment pass. It was an irrelevant, false example that I found in my butt.

2 weeks later
#8801 58 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I noticed something strange last night and cant really figure it out yet.
Once in a while I hear a "clicking" noise that does it about 4 times then stops. I cant figure where its coming from and I dont see any game play being affected. Its not a coil firing as its not that loud but certainly loud enough to be heard clearly. I noticed that it happened when going into the trough and also once after going into the throne room.
Any ideas?

I’ve noticed that too, but during multiball I believe. I can hear a repetitive sound like a clicking, or something firing that I can’t identify. It stops after a few seconds. I’ve never figured it out.

1 week later
#8875 51 days ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

The insert lenses are fine. The general illumination, not so much. The following photos were taken in a very dimly lit room (so that they would show the playfield illumination from the game itself without much help from the room lights). This took some adjusting with my camera settings because modern cameras are really good at compensating for different light situations and making things look better than they really do. I feel that these are VERY close to what my game looks like in a dim room to the naked eye.
Here is a photo of the game in test mode with all of the leds (inserts and gi) set to white:
[quoted image]
See how all of the inserts are nice and bright? Good, right? But look at the slingshots and the other plastics that have the gi lights under them. They are barely lit. Barely any light transmits through the plastics (I had to look under the brown one at the lower left of the playfield to see if the light was actually working). Almost no light makes it onto the playfield from the gi.
For the next photo, I toggled the test mode into gi only, again set to white.
[quoted image]
Comparing the two, you can see that under the 2.0 system the game is really only lit by the ambient room lights and the inserts. Had I turned off the lights in my game room, you would not have been able to see the playfield art in the second photo at all.
I reached out to JJP about this. Butch looked into it and concluded that this is standard 2.0 light operation. He said that since the light tubes for the gi are not as efficient as the insert lenses at transmitting light, the gi lighting is always going to be dimmer than the inserts unless something can be done in code to allow the gi to be turned up. He said he would send a note to the code team about it.
Aside from the propensity to occasionally fail, I miss my original lighting.

This is crazy! It's SO much darker with version 2.0 than the doomed (at some point) v1.1 that I have. Check out my pics I just took. It looks like I have pinstadium lights or something. It's stock, except for added leds around the pops. It really looks brighter in the older, flawed version. Am I wrong? (I do have the room lights on.)
IMG_0948 (resized).PNGIMG_0949 (resized).PNG

#8885 50 days ago

My monkey still works...after all these years.

#8890 50 days ago

The JJP owners manual for WOZ clearly states, "if your monkey stops functioning properly, or is misbehaving, do NOT spank it." Pg. 81.

1 week later
#8963 42 days ago

If you had a standard WOZ with stainless rails/bar/legs, what color would you choose to powder coat it? (If you did). It seems the obvious choices are ruby red sparkle, emerald green sparkle or yellow-gold. It’s probably just a matter of personal choice, but I’m just wondering what you guys think. I have a new powder coat company I’m going to try. They can do any color.

4 weeks later
#9235 15 days ago

I added these little plastic split rail fence pieces along the shooter lane with the corn field art behind them. The corn would look good too on either side of the lane, I think!

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