(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

5 years ago

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  • 9,172 posts
  • 509 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 26 minutes ago by LukyDuck
  • Topic is favorited by 236 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (5 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (2 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (6 months ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (6 months ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (6 months ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (6 months ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (4 months ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#6849 6 months ago

I picked up an original run WOZ recently and an working through some issues as I discover them. Since I'm new to the game, I'm not always sure what behavior is normal. Is the game supposed to release locked balls at the end of the game? Mine does not release balls from the munchkinland lock at the end of the game. If I end a game with balls locked, start a new game and lock a ball it does not kick a new ball into the shooter lane. It goes into a ball search instead. What is normal/ what is wrong with this picture?

#6858 6 months ago
Quoted from finman2000:

The balls should drain from the lock at the end of the game. When you lock a ball in a new game and balls still remain in the lock from a previous game, the metal gate should lift just long enough to let one ball down the wireform back to the left flipper.

Figured it out. Not sure why but the problem seems to have been caused by the monkey not making it all the way to the top. I fixed that and now the game seems to work normally.

BTW - I was reading through the manual this morning and noticed that whether the game clears out locked balls at the end of a game or not is actually a setting. I just updated my machine to the latest code, so it is set to the default, which is "no". So not having the balls drain out of the locks is normal. I'm curious though whether anyone has an opinion as to whether there is any advantage to "yes" or "no" in this setting?

#6860 6 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

No advantage. You still have to lock three balls to start MB regardless of whether they are being held or not from a prior game. You want them released at the end of a game IMO.

I agree. I was wondering more about it from a performance reliability standpoint.

#6864 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yellow brick road Wizard of Oz really nice yellow trim radcals look wonderful, no flying monkey on the backboard.
Smaller, colorful topper.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I like the new backglass.

#6866 6 months ago

Having trouble with my lighting harness and wondering if anyone here has insights that might be helpful:


#6878 6 months ago

I'm looking for some advice on improving the overall GI illumination of WOZ. I know this has been discussed as nausea but the threads I found are scattered all over the place.

I'm looking to collect the opinions of folks who have already traveled this road. I started a thread with a poll here:


Thanks in advance for your input!

#6892 6 months ago

I'm thinking I'd like to add some Cliffys to my newly acquired WOZ. I know I read recommendations about this somewhere but can't seem to find it. I remember people saying the munchkinland playfield edge needs a protector. Seems like the scoops could use protection, too. That means a minimum order of the VUK/scoop set and munchkin edge. What is the general opinion on protection for the rollover buttons, magnets and castle playfield edge?

#6895 6 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

pinheadpierre I did vuks, munchkin, shooter lane and opted not to do rollovers as they tend to diverge the ball path more than normal. Munchkin is a must the ball hit that edge in front of the ramps a lot

Thanks for the input. I think that's the route I'll take, too unless enough people chime in otherwise. I'm having a hard time seeing how the rollover button areas would need a cliffy given that there is an approximately 1/8" ring of clear plastic flush with the plywood edge between the button and the playfield. Plus I don't want three metal rings in the middle of that beautiful playfield. The magnets I worry about a little bit not as much as the saucers. I also have a hard time imagining the castle playfield taking a bad hit to the edge. Is this an actual problem area or just a protection option for the abundantly cautious?

Quoted from f3honda4me:

Sounds like Cliffys is 2 months behind right now. so gonna be a while

That's okay. He's a one man shop making stuff in his garage. Sometimes you'll get lucky and he'll have stock on hand for what you need. Otherwise, I'm fine to wait. He's a great guy with a quality product.

#6901 6 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Anyone know how long it usually takes cliffy to respond to emails for placing an order?

I'm not sure that I've ever gotten an email response. A package just shows up one day....

#6910 6 months ago
Quoted from coz6:

Mylar is not going to work, this thing takes a licking and does stop ticking. Please for the love of the playfield get an edge protector.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Even gorilla tape wont protect it.
Steel is the only way.

Thanks. Munchkinland is definitely getting some Cliffy steel along with the VUKs and saucers. Magnets will get mylar rings. I'm on the fence about the shooter lane. The game serves a ball to the shooter lane SO gently, unlike my other games. Maybe just mylar for the ball serve area?

#6914 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I have 10,000 plays on my WOZ. All HUO.
No wear near the magnets as long as they are just a hair higher than the playfield.
No wear on the rollovers.
Wear in the throne room saucer.
Wear in the shooter lane.
Massive wear on the munchkin playfield edge.
Some wear showing now at the inlane drop points.
Some wear showing in the state fair balloon pop area.
So, Cliffy's on munchkin edge, shooter lane and throne room.

Thank you - EXACTLY the sort of real world test data I was looking for. I'll add the shooter lane cliffy to my order. I'll also give the balloon area some custom mylar before too long - it is a pop bumper nest after all. Makes sense that it should eventually wear without protection.

#6918 6 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I know someone with a very early ECLE that put mylar strips on the edge of the Munchkin mini PF and it has no damage at all after thousands of plays. I recommend the metal cliffy one for sure but if you get a game and can't wait for Cliffy to get you his edge protector it does work better than you'd expect.

Sounds like an easy enough temporary solution that will be better than nothing while I await a proper cliffy.

1 month later
#7282 5 months ago

Also make sure the lock arm is not rubbing on anything and that the end is pretty close to the centerline of the ball top to bottom.

#7295 5 months ago

I installed V7 and it caused my left sling to machine gun. Had to turn the game off to stop it. Rebooted and tested 3 times with the same result. Went back to V6.whatever and all is fine. I'll be waiting for a more mature version of 7 before trying it again.

#7299 5 months ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

WOZ RR coming this Wednesday! The delivery people said 350 lbs.

Yup - I've moved 8 pins in and out of my place. WOZ is the only one I've needed help with. It's a beast.

#7303 5 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Anyone installed the playfield repair decals? Looking for any advice, procedure, what playfield items were removed, etc. Did you mylar over them?

I didn't know such a thing existed for WOZ. Where do you get them?

2 weeks later
#7489 5 months ago

Why did you pull them out? Seems like a nice upgrade to have.

#7493 5 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I'm just not a huge fan. I am doing a custom spotlight, trough and back board lighting similar to my other WoZ.
[quoted image]

I like the look of that. What combination of lights did you use?

1 week later
#7610 4 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I didn't like the solid LED light on the state fair balloon and the flame LED from comet was anything but.. it's just a rotating flashing light. So, I bought some flickering LED bulbs and they are way more realistic and pretty freaking bright
1 LED https://photos.app.goo.gl/yGKeovZqhy6nsYt78
2 LEDs https://photos.app.goo.gl/VJ4JHdnGzwoJdSoG7
I have a bunch leftover if anyone wants to do this, I think I had to buy 20 at a time.

Checked out your videos. It looks good! Is it just me or does the two led version look more flickery compared to the single led? The 1 led video looks more like a blink than a flicker. Are these different bulbs (two diodes in one lamp) or two separate bulbs? I'm guessing the former since I assume these are mounted like standard pop bumper body lights with one socket threaded into the middle of the pop body.

1 month later
#7937 3 months ago
Quoted from mavantix:

Umm, there are no wall nuts on the inter-board communication wires I'm talking about moving away from EMI sources.

Right, but when the wall nut connections go bad the slightest movement can have an effect. I experienced this myself, jiggling various wires under the playfield (not the main harness branches). Give each wire on the wall nuts a solid tug just to be sure. I ended up having so many wires pull out that I replaced most of the wall nuts with old fashioned twist nuts.

#7939 3 months ago

My family hosted a gathering at our house while I was away last weekend. Went out to the game room and discovered that WOZ no longer boots. I started a separate thread here:


Any help would be greatly appreciated!

#7945 3 months ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Please elaborate on wall nuts fixing some light board issues that manifest inconsistently after some gameplay but then resolve after cycling the power.
I had to search on "wall nut". I learned something today. Hadn't heard that term.
Which/where wall nuts are possible culprits?
And which wires are recommended to fuss with?
Thank you,

Follow the wiring harness for the lights to the back of the playfield. You will find that the wires all come together in a group of wall nuts. One color is positive, the other is ground. Tug each wire in each wall nut. If a wire comes out of a nut or wiggles excessively, replace the wall nut with a twist connector or other suitable, strong connection. Make sure the wires are well connected and secured together as a group. Don't use another wall nut. They're not good with stranded wire.

3 weeks later
#8218 3 months ago

Just curious - why would anyone actually want to update to 7.01? It seems pretty buggy.

#8220 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

- This is a new baseline ISO. This is not a delta update. Further updates
will use this version as a base.
=== Game Code
* Fix score background not updating player up number properly.
* Update social media page.
=== Core Code
* Fixed typo in file load error message.
* Displayed game version now includes dongle-programmed flags and trim
=== OS
* Change in delta updater to prevent thumb drive "corruption."
+ Starting with drives imaged from this version, ISOs will be able to save
system data (audits, adjustments, high scores, etc.). This happens by
default if the system detects a compatible existing version. It is
possible to reset factory defaults by following on-screen instructions
during imaging.
- Note this means the first time you install this version, your existing
drive will NOT be compatible, so you'll need to backup settings manually
if you want to keep them.
== Version 7.00 March 20, 2019 ==
=== Game Code
* Updated HSTD routines for new core HSTD handling.
+ Sound to start button with no credits.
* Tilt speech is more likely now due to addition of more tilt speech.
* "Player X" doesn't show up in HSTD if there was only one player.
* Trough switches renumbered to be consistent with '#1' being where the
kicker is.
* Fix castle door switch debounce. Starting with v6.5, doors were scoring
2 door hits at once if both doors were hit; now a single hit is scored.
* Updated bumper/sling coil strength setting options to work with core
* Fix text display on some display effects.
* Improve shooter launch sound logic.
* Now don't show high scores in status report if HSTDs are disabled.
+ YBR version support:
- Monkey permanently disabled; won't show as bad in test.
- Remove Monkey and Castle Lock switches.
+ Support for cabinet 2.0 switches and headphone jack/volume switches (new
YBRs and 75ths).
* Virtual Monkey ball lock now holds ball for all of the display effect (both
for YBR games and any time virtual lock is turned on in settings or Monkey
auto-disabled by game).
* Fix non-fatal error caused by burn-in.
* Now fireball lamp won't turn on if Melt the Witch is lit.
* Now don't show extra balls when in Balls in Reserve mode.
* Update attract mode to ignore invalid pricing tiers - previously, invalid
pricing tiers showed up blank during pricing display. (Invalid pricing
tiers are tiers where cost/game is not a better deal than a previous
level. Games have never honored these levels but the way they were not
displayed was odd.)
* Bonus lamp effect now fades into next game state.
* Bonus lamp effect now starts even if display effect is held up.
* Ball save lamp now blinks faster as time runs out.
* Home preset now matches default settings.
=== Core Code
* HSTD system reworked to streamline entry and display.
* Fix test report notice sound.
* Fix for some extremely unlikely and random crashes.
+ Switch History test.
* Fix non-fatal error during sound test.
+ Add ball serve to log.
+ Add ball(s) missing to test report.
+ Add sound for confirmation to Custom Message and Set Clock.
+ Add confirmation message and sound to saving custom message and setting
clock; added confirmation sound to saving custom graphic.
* Ball search automatically held off while trough is being actively paused.
* Issues with audit and adjustment files are now printed to console on load.
* Changed maximum time per status report page to 20 seconds.
* Default trough kick time increased to 16.
* Fix status report delay/display time adjustments.
* Change formatting of hardware info to be able to display more lines.
* Improve ball collection routine.
* Balls In Reserve is now default style of game play.
* Fix potential bug logging adjustment changes during factory reset.
* Revamped pricing controls. Now changing currency will reset all values
for pricing and coin door to default values for that currency and reset
all earnings and credits.
* Fix Euro 11 pricing.
+ Add Japan pricing.
+ Add currency change warning to Pricing Settings preview.
* Warn (in diag only) when an invalid pricing tier is set.
* Fix match potentially awarding incorrectly if interrupted with start
* Fix log events for balls in reserve Game End.
* Fixed false event logging for settings changes.
* Log trimmed to 30,000 lines on init now.
* Log now differentiates Ball End Started and Ball End Finished.
* Fixed UK pricing resets.
* Added log events for ball drain, mb start/restart/end, and (non)fatal
* Start button now dispatches on close in diag (behavior changed because of
handling ability to restart games at new times).
* Fixed plotting of certain movies that might cause graphical glitches.
* Trough test enhanced and allows trough VUK stregth adjustment changing.
* Fix potential incorrect ball counting after ball search 4.
* Abandoned devices don't count as having released balls in ball search
=== OS
+ Support for Gen3 & Gen4 motherboards.
* Better display handling.
LTG : )

I have read that and understand it. Unfortunately, my machine is not even playable with 7.01 (the slingshots machine gun and do not stop once triggered). I have read numerous other reports of various bugs that others have found which negatively affect gameplay. Given this, isn't waiting for 7.02 or whatever comes next better than installing a new, buggy platform which negatively affects gameplay (or even makes it literally unplayable)?

1 month later
#8724 45 days ago
Quoted from monte_:

I noticed this AM when I started playing that my state fair balloon pop bumper wasn't acting right. It was lethargic. I noticed that under the play field assembly one of the rods of the pop bumper ring and rod assy was broken. One side was fine and the other was broken as shown in the pictures. I just want to make sure this is the only part I need from Marco. Or do I need something else in addition?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-4754[quoted image][quoted image]

Visually check your new ring when you get it to be sure the rods are fully peened over where they attach to the ring. I've had quite a few in the past couple years that were barely peened over. Install those and you'll be doing the job all over again within six months.

#8744 38 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Its the guitar rif with the ball outlining NJ on attract mode.

I do miss the space shuttle start sound from the old code....

#8800 33 days ago

I put my 7.5v light boards up for sale for anyone who does not want to spend the $800 plus serious time on a 2.0 system. Get yourself a stash of backup boards now!

Parts - For Sale
Used, good condition “Don't want to spend $800 plus 12-15 hours on a 2.0 conversion? Well here's the solution - a full set of 7.5v unbuffered light boards for woz! Includes a full set of the red/green d...”
37 days ago
Woodland, CA

#8807 32 days ago

My 2c on the GI brightness of the 2.0 light conversion: I agree with others that have stated that the GI is noticeably less bright. Like others, I have double checked to ensure that all of the GI lights are centered over their tubes. I thought that maybe I had a cognitive bias since I had heard this from others in advance of doing the conversion, but I have had several non-pinhead people (who are totally unaware of this potential issue) play who had played it prior to the conversion and they ALL independently noticed that the game was darker.

#8814 31 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Spotlights, trough lights and a backboard light works very well.
Comet matrix system ROCKS!

That's the route I was thinking about taking but I didn't know about the Comet matrix system. Those are some fair priced handy components! What color did you go with for trough lighting? Red? Warm white?

#8816 31 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Purple trough, Warm white in a pinch.
And purple spots. 12v led spots hooked into the 12v GI. Its quick and easy.
Purple brings out the hidden shadowy figures in the artwork.
Its really nice and doesn't make anything look purple.

Interesting idea - purple was not in my mental list of obvious choices! Thanks for the suggestion.

#8826 30 days ago

Looking through my stash of lights, I've got a bunch of Comet 7smd 6.3v strips. Unless I'm mistaken, the convenient tie-in places on woz (topper, coin door, spotlights) are all 12v. Am I correct in thinking that I would either need a step down unit or 12v led strips? Looks like the Comet matrix stuff is 6.3v?

#8834 29 days ago
Quoted from Walleyefisher:

I purchased the cliffy to protect the edges of the munchkin playfield and when I start looking at disassembly it's somewhat daunting. Has anyone done this and if so how bad was it?

Pay attention to that one screw above the orbit. Cliffy colors the hole with a marker to indicate that it gets the lower profile screw.

#8855 26 days ago

Found an error in my 2.0 light system last night. Either the castle cables were labeled wrong or the rgb cable map is printed wrong. Either way, it resulted in my wiring the lights for the search insert and the adjacent gi light backwards. This explains why my search insert had been lit constantly since the conversion! (Wasn't there someone else here who was having this issue?) Heads up to those who follow. I recommend holding off on fully reinstalling the castle playfield until you can test to ensure that everything is correct in test mode.

#8860 26 days ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Found an error in my 2.0 light system last night. Either the castle cables were labeled wrong or the rgb cable map is printed wrong. Either way, it resulted in my wiring the lights for the search insert and the adjacent gi light backwards. This explains why my search insert had been lit constantly since the conversion! (Wasn't there someone else here who was having this issue?) Heads up to those who follow. I recommend holding off on fully reinstalling the castle playfield until you can test to ensure that everything is correct in test mode.

I ordered my 2.0 kit in May but didn't get around to installing it until just recently. Butch at JJP says this was an error in the instructions that he has since corrected. So if you're ordering a kit now it sounds like it probably won't be an issue, but if you ordered your kit awhile ago and are sitting on it you might run into this.

#8863 26 days ago

Just curious - can the buffered and unbuffered 7.5v boards be intermixed?

#8866 26 days ago
Quoted from adol75:

At 270$ a board, I guess it's time for a 2.0 upgrade, I knew it would have to happen, I was just hoping for later !

....or a set of used boards! (Insert shameless ad bump here.)

Parts - For Sale
Used, good condition “Don't want to spend $800 plus 12-15 hours on a 2.0 conversion? Well here's the solution - a full set of 7.5v unbuffered light boards for woz! Includes a full set of the red/green d...”
37 days ago
Woodland, CA

#8869 25 days ago
Quoted from adol75:

You’ve just shamelessly woke up my lazy gene !
Too late though, I went on JJP website and for once the 2.0 kit was available, I figured it was a sign so I ordered one.
But thanks to you I’ll lower my hopes of reselling my old board set with a dead tin man.

Plan on installing additional gi lighting along with the 2.0 kit (unless you always play with considerable light in your game room). The 2.0 conversion makes the game absurdly dark. The plastics are barely lit, let alone the playfield.

#8871 25 days ago

The insert lenses are fine. The general illumination, not so much. The following photos were taken in a very dimly lit room (so that they would show the playfield illumination from the game itself without much help from the room lights). This took some adjusting with my camera settings because modern cameras are really good at compensating for different light situations and making things look better than they really do. I feel that these are VERY close to what my game looks like in a dim room to the naked eye.

Here is a photo of the game in test mode with all of the leds (inserts and gi) set to white:

P9190106 (resized).JPG

See how all of the inserts are nice and bright? Good, right? But look at the slingshots and the other plastics that have the gi lights under them. They are barely lit. Barely any light transmits through the plastics (I had to look under the brown one at the lower left of the playfield to see if the light was actually working). Almost no light makes it onto the playfield from the gi.

For the next photo, I toggled the test mode into gi only, again set to white.

20190919_221637 (resized).jpg

Comparing the two, you can see that under the 2.0 system the game is really only lit by the ambient room lights and the inserts. Had I turned off the lights in my game room, you would not have been able to see the playfield art in the second photo at all.

I reached out to JJP about this. Butch looked into it and concluded that this is standard 2.0 light operation. He said that since the light tubes for the gi are not as efficient as the insert lenses at transmitting light, the gi lighting is always going to be dimmer than the inserts unless something can be done in code to allow the gi to be turned up. He said he would send a note to the code team about it.

Aside from the propensity to occasionally fail, I miss my original lighting.

#8874 25 days ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

After having purchased the 2.0 system, I hope they dont come out with a 3.0 system with brighter GI lights
Hopefully something can be done with software.

My thought exactly.

#8884 24 days ago

My favorite part about the monkey is how it goes up and down and brings balls to the witch.

#8933 20 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

It's the kernel and motherboard chipset that matter the most. But the further we get away from the chipset in WoZ and its successor in Hobbit with Intel chipsets (Intel H61 in WoZ, Intel H81 Express in Hobbit and after), the more likely it will be that a board will not work or may work with issues.

Has anyone reached out to JJP to ask what their plan is to address inevitable motherboard failure down the line? It worries me that we might be looking down the barrel of a situation like any old solid state game where motherboards have to be repaired on a component level or wait for a third party to build a custom replacement board.

2 weeks later
#9159 1 day ago
Quoted from adol75:

I have another problem with my 2.0 lights.
The Search light on the castle playfield stays white when it should be green.
I thought there was a problem with his data cable but when it rolls colors with the rest of the playfield (on ball drains) it turns to the right color perfectly synced with all the other lights.
Could it be a software bug ? I’m still on 6.61, I didnt see any reason to update the code but this could be one.

I had this problem. There was an error in the instructions that caused me to use the wrong wires for the two single light boards at the rear of the castle playfield. Run a GI test. If the search insert is lit during the GI test, you need to swap the connections (castle light board ends only) between the GI light and the search insert.

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