(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

6 years ago

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Topic index (key posts)

9 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (6 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (3 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (1 year ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (1 year ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #11015 Adjustment advice for the monkey Posted by LTG (26 days ago)

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#6849 1 year ago

I picked up an original run WOZ recently and an working through some issues as I discover them. Since I'm new to the game, I'm not always sure what behavior is normal. Is the game supposed to release locked balls at the end of the game? Mine does not release balls from the munchkinland lock at the end of the game. If I end a game with balls locked, start a new game and lock a ball it does not kick a new ball into the shooter lane. It goes into a ball search instead. What is normal/ what is wrong with this picture?

#6858 1 year ago
Quoted from finman2000:

The balls should drain from the lock at the end of the game. When you lock a ball in a new game and balls still remain in the lock from a previous game, the metal gate should lift just long enough to let one ball down the wireform back to the left flipper.

Figured it out. Not sure why but the problem seems to have been caused by the monkey not making it all the way to the top. I fixed that and now the game seems to work normally.

BTW - I was reading through the manual this morning and noticed that whether the game clears out locked balls at the end of a game or not is actually a setting. I just updated my machine to the latest code, so it is set to the default, which is "no". So not having the balls drain out of the locks is normal. I'm curious though whether anyone has an opinion as to whether there is any advantage to "yes" or "no" in this setting?

#6860 1 year ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

No advantage. You still have to lock three balls to start MB regardless of whether they are being held or not from a prior game. You want them released at the end of a game IMO.

I agree. I was wondering more about it from a performance reliability standpoint.

#6864 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yellow brick road Wizard of Oz really nice yellow trim radcals look wonderful, no flying monkey on the backboard.
Smaller, colorful topper.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I like the new backglass.

#6866 1 year ago

Having trouble with my lighting harness and wondering if anyone here has insights that might be helpful:


#6878 1 year ago

I'm looking for some advice on improving the overall GI illumination of WOZ. I know this has been discussed as nausea but the threads I found are scattered all over the place.

I'm looking to collect the opinions of folks who have already traveled this road. I started a thread with a poll here:


Thanks in advance for your input!

#6892 1 year ago

I'm thinking I'd like to add some Cliffys to my newly acquired WOZ. I know I read recommendations about this somewhere but can't seem to find it. I remember people saying the munchkinland playfield edge needs a protector. Seems like the scoops could use protection, too. That means a minimum order of the VUK/scoop set and munchkin edge. What is the general opinion on protection for the rollover buttons, magnets and castle playfield edge?

#6895 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

pinheadpierre I did vuks, munchkin, shooter lane and opted not to do rollovers as they tend to diverge the ball path more than normal. Munchkin is a must the ball hit that edge in front of the ramps a lot

Thanks for the input. I think that's the route I'll take, too unless enough people chime in otherwise. I'm having a hard time seeing how the rollover button areas would need a cliffy given that there is an approximately 1/8" ring of clear plastic flush with the plywood edge between the button and the playfield. Plus I don't want three metal rings in the middle of that beautiful playfield. The magnets I worry about a little bit not as much as the saucers. I also have a hard time imagining the castle playfield taking a bad hit to the edge. Is this an actual problem area or just a protection option for the abundantly cautious?

Quoted from f3honda4me:

Sounds like Cliffys is 2 months behind right now. so gonna be a while

That's okay. He's a one man shop making stuff in his garage. Sometimes you'll get lucky and he'll have stock on hand for what you need. Otherwise, I'm fine to wait. He's a great guy with a quality product.

#6901 1 year ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Anyone know how long it usually takes cliffy to respond to emails for placing an order?

I'm not sure that I've ever gotten an email response. A package just shows up one day....

#6910 1 year ago
Quoted from coz6:

Mylar is not going to work, this thing takes a licking and does stop ticking. Please for the love of the playfield get an edge protector.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Even gorilla tape wont protect it.
Steel is the only way.

Thanks. Munchkinland is definitely getting some Cliffy steel along with the VUKs and saucers. Magnets will get mylar rings. I'm on the fence about the shooter lane. The game serves a ball to the shooter lane SO gently, unlike my other games. Maybe just mylar for the ball serve area?

#6914 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I have 10,000 plays on my WOZ. All HUO.
No wear near the magnets as long as they are just a hair higher than the playfield.
No wear on the rollovers.
Wear in the throne room saucer.
Wear in the shooter lane.
Massive wear on the munchkin playfield edge.
Some wear showing now at the inlane drop points.
Some wear showing in the state fair balloon pop area.
So, Cliffy's on munchkin edge, shooter lane and throne room.

Thank you - EXACTLY the sort of real world test data I was looking for. I'll add the shooter lane cliffy to my order. I'll also give the balloon area some custom mylar before too long - it is a pop bumper nest after all. Makes sense that it should eventually wear without protection.

#6918 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I know someone with a very early ECLE that put mylar strips on the edge of the Munchkin mini PF and it has no damage at all after thousands of plays. I recommend the metal cliffy one for sure but if you get a game and can't wait for Cliffy to get you his edge protector it does work better than you'd expect.

Sounds like an easy enough temporary solution that will be better than nothing while I await a proper cliffy.

1 month later
#7282 1 year ago

Also make sure the lock arm is not rubbing on anything and that the end is pretty close to the centerline of the ball top to bottom.

#7295 1 year ago

I installed V7 and it caused my left sling to machine gun. Had to turn the game off to stop it. Rebooted and tested 3 times with the same result. Went back to V6.whatever and all is fine. I'll be waiting for a more mature version of 7 before trying it again.

#7299 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

WOZ RR coming this Wednesday! The delivery people said 350 lbs.

Yup - I've moved 8 pins in and out of my place. WOZ is the only one I've needed help with. It's a beast.

#7303 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Anyone installed the playfield repair decals? Looking for any advice, procedure, what playfield items were removed, etc. Did you mylar over them?

I didn't know such a thing existed for WOZ. Where do you get them?

2 weeks later
#7489 1 year ago

Why did you pull them out? Seems like a nice upgrade to have.

#7493 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I'm just not a huge fan. I am doing a custom spotlight, trough and back board lighting similar to my other WoZ.
[quoted image]

I like the look of that. What combination of lights did you use?

1 week later
#7610 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I didn't like the solid LED light on the state fair balloon and the flame LED from comet was anything but.. it's just a rotating flashing light. So, I bought some flickering LED bulbs and they are way more realistic and pretty freaking bright
1 LED https://photos.app.goo.gl/yGKeovZqhy6nsYt78
2 LEDs https://photos.app.goo.gl/VJ4JHdnGzwoJdSoG7
I have a bunch leftover if anyone wants to do this, I think I had to buy 20 at a time.

Checked out your videos. It looks good! Is it just me or does the two led version look more flickery compared to the single led? The 1 led video looks more like a blink than a flicker. Are these different bulbs (two diodes in one lamp) or two separate bulbs? I'm guessing the former since I assume these are mounted like standard pop bumper body lights with one socket threaded into the middle of the pop body.

1 month later
#7937 1 year ago
Quoted from mavantix:

Umm, there are no wall nuts on the inter-board communication wires I'm talking about moving away from EMI sources.

Right, but when the wall nut connections go bad the slightest movement can have an effect. I experienced this myself, jiggling various wires under the playfield (not the main harness branches). Give each wire on the wall nuts a solid tug just to be sure. I ended up having so many wires pull out that I replaced most of the wall nuts with old fashioned twist nuts.

#7939 1 year ago

My family hosted a gathering at our house while I was away last weekend. Went out to the game room and discovered that WOZ no longer boots. I started a separate thread here:


Any help would be greatly appreciated!

#7945 1 year ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Please elaborate on wall nuts fixing some light board issues that manifest inconsistently after some gameplay but then resolve after cycling the power.
I had to search on "wall nut". I learned something today. Hadn't heard that term.
Which/where wall nuts are possible culprits?
And which wires are recommended to fuss with?
Thank you,

Follow the wiring harness for the lights to the back of the playfield. You will find that the wires all come together in a group of wall nuts. One color is positive, the other is ground. Tug each wire in each wall nut. If a wire comes out of a nut or wiggles excessively, replace the wall nut with a twist connector or other suitable, strong connection. Make sure the wires are well connected and secured together as a group. Don't use another wall nut. They're not good with stranded wire.

3 weeks later
#8218 1 year ago

Just curious - why would anyone actually want to update to 7.01? It seems pretty buggy.

#8220 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

- This is a new baseline ISO. This is not a delta update. Further updates
will use this version as a base.
=== Game Code
* Fix score background not updating player up number properly.
* Update social media page.
=== Core Code
* Fixed typo in file load error message.
* Displayed game version now includes dongle-programmed flags and trim
=== OS
* Change in delta updater to prevent thumb drive "corruption."
+ Starting with drives imaged from this version, ISOs will be able to save
system data (audits, adjustments, high scores, etc.). This happens by
default if the system detects a compatible existing version. It is
possible to reset factory defaults by following on-screen instructions
during imaging.
- Note this means the first time you install this version, your existing
drive will NOT be compatible, so you'll need to backup settings manually
if you want to keep them.
== Version 7.00 March 20, 2019 ==
=== Game Code
* Updated HSTD routines for new core HSTD handling.
+ Sound to start button with no credits.
* Tilt speech is more likely now due to addition of more tilt speech.
* "Player X" doesn't show up in HSTD if there was only one player.
* Trough switches renumbered to be consistent with '#1' being where the
kicker is.
* Fix castle door switch debounce. Starting with v6.5, doors were scoring
2 door hits at once if both doors were hit; now a single hit is scored.
* Updated bumper/sling coil strength setting options to work with core
* Fix text display on some display effects.
* Improve shooter launch sound logic.
* Now don't show high scores in status report if HSTDs are disabled.
+ YBR version support:
- Monkey permanently disabled; won't show as bad in test.
- Remove Monkey and Castle Lock switches.
+ Support for cabinet 2.0 switches and headphone jack/volume switches (new
YBRs and 75ths).
* Virtual Monkey ball lock now holds ball for all of the display effect (both
for YBR games and any time virtual lock is turned on in settings or Monkey
auto-disabled by game).
* Fix non-fatal error caused by burn-in.
* Now fireball lamp won't turn on if Melt the Witch is lit.
* Now don't show extra balls when in Balls in Reserve mode.
* Update attract mode to ignore invalid pricing tiers - previously, invalid
pricing tiers showed up blank during pricing display. (Invalid pricing
tiers are tiers where cost/game is not a better deal than a previous
level. Games have never honored these levels but the way they were not
displayed was odd.)
* Bonus lamp effect now fades into next game state.
* Bonus lamp effect now starts even if display effect is held up.
* Ball save lamp now blinks faster as time runs out.
* Home preset now matches default settings.
=== Core Code
* HSTD system reworked to streamline entry and display.
* Fix test report notice sound.
* Fix for some extremely unlikely and random crashes.
+ Switch History test.
* Fix non-fatal error during sound test.
+ Add ball serve to log.
+ Add ball(s) missing to test report.
+ Add sound for confirmation to Custom Message and Set Clock.
+ Add confirmation message and sound to saving custom message and setting
clock; added confirmation sound to saving custom graphic.
* Ball search automatically held off while trough is being actively paused.
* Issues with audit and adjustment files are now printed to console on load.
* Changed maximum time per status report page to 20 seconds.
* Default trough kick time increased to 16.
* Fix status report delay/display time adjustments.
* Change formatting of hardware info to be able to display more lines.
* Improve ball collection routine.
* Balls In Reserve is now default style of game play.
* Fix potential bug logging adjustment changes during factory reset.
* Revamped pricing controls. Now changing currency will reset all values
for pricing and coin door to default values for that currency and reset
all earnings and credits.
* Fix Euro 11 pricing.
+ Add Japan pricing.
+ Add currency change warning to Pricing Settings preview.
* Warn (in diag only) when an invalid pricing tier is set.
* Fix match potentially awarding incorrectly if interrupted with start
* Fix log events for balls in reserve Game End.
* Fixed false event logging for settings changes.
* Log trimmed to 30,000 lines on init now.
* Log now differentiates Ball End Started and Ball End Finished.
* Fixed UK pricing resets.
* Added log events for ball drain, mb start/restart/end, and (non)fatal
* Start button now dispatches on close in diag (behavior changed because of
handling ability to restart games at new times).
* Fixed plotting of certain movies that might cause graphical glitches.
* Trough test enhanced and allows trough VUK stregth adjustment changing.
* Fix potential incorrect ball counting after ball search 4.
* Abandoned devices don't count as having released balls in ball search
=== OS
+ Support for Gen3 & Gen4 motherboards.
* Better display handling.
LTG : )

I have read that and understand it. Unfortunately, my machine is not even playable with 7.01 (the slingshots machine gun and do not stop once triggered). I have read numerous other reports of various bugs that others have found which negatively affect gameplay. Given this, isn't waiting for 7.02 or whatever comes next better than installing a new, buggy platform which negatively affects gameplay (or even makes it literally unplayable)?

1 month later
#8724 1 year ago
Quoted from monte_:

I noticed this AM when I started playing that my state fair balloon pop bumper wasn't acting right. It was lethargic. I noticed that under the play field assembly one of the rods of the pop bumper ring and rod assy was broken. One side was fine and the other was broken as shown in the pictures. I just want to make sure this is the only part I need from Marco. Or do I need something else in addition?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-4754[quoted image][quoted image]

Visually check your new ring when you get it to be sure the rods are fully peened over where they attach to the ring. I've had quite a few in the past couple years that were barely peened over. Install those and you'll be doing the job all over again within six months.

#8744 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Its the guitar rif with the ball outlining NJ on attract mode.

I do miss the space shuttle start sound from the old code....

#8800 1 year ago

I put my 7.5v light boards up for sale for anyone who does not want to spend the $800 plus serious time on a 2.0 system. Get yourself a stash of backup boards now!

Archived after 11 days
Not sold
Parts - For Sale
Used, good condition “Priced to sell! Don't want to spend $800 plus 12-15 hours on a 2.0 conversion? Well here's the solution - a full set of 7.5v unbuffered light boards for woz! Includes a full set of...”
Los Altos, CA

#8807 1 year ago

My 2c on the GI brightness of the 2.0 light conversion: I agree with others that have stated that the GI is noticeably less bright. Like others, I have double checked to ensure that all of the GI lights are centered over their tubes. I thought that maybe I had a cognitive bias since I had heard this from others in advance of doing the conversion, but I have had several non-pinhead people (who are totally unaware of this potential issue) play who had played it prior to the conversion and they ALL independently noticed that the game was darker.

#8814 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Spotlights, trough lights and a backboard light works very well.
Comet matrix system ROCKS!

That's the route I was thinking about taking but I didn't know about the Comet matrix system. Those are some fair priced handy components! What color did you go with for trough lighting? Red? Warm white?

#8816 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Purple trough, Warm white in a pinch.
And purple spots. 12v led spots hooked into the 12v GI. Its quick and easy.
Purple brings out the hidden shadowy figures in the artwork.
Its really nice and doesn't make anything look purple.

Interesting idea - purple was not in my mental list of obvious choices! Thanks for the suggestion.

#8826 1 year ago

Looking through my stash of lights, I've got a bunch of Comet 7smd 6.3v strips. Unless I'm mistaken, the convenient tie-in places on woz (topper, coin door, spotlights) are all 12v. Am I correct in thinking that I would either need a step down unit or 12v led strips? Looks like the Comet matrix stuff is 6.3v?

#8834 1 year ago
Quoted from Walleyefisher:

I purchased the cliffy to protect the edges of the munchkin playfield and when I start looking at disassembly it's somewhat daunting. Has anyone done this and if so how bad was it?

Pay attention to that one screw above the orbit. Cliffy colors the hole with a marker to indicate that it gets the lower profile screw.

#8855 1 year ago

Found an error in my 2.0 light system last night. Either the castle cables were labeled wrong or the rgb cable map is printed wrong. Either way, it resulted in my wiring the lights for the search insert and the adjacent gi light backwards. This explains why my search insert had been lit constantly since the conversion! (Wasn't there someone else here who was having this issue?) Heads up to those who follow. I recommend holding off on fully reinstalling the castle playfield until you can test to ensure that everything is correct in test mode.

#8860 12 months ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Found an error in my 2.0 light system last night. Either the castle cables were labeled wrong or the rgb cable map is printed wrong. Either way, it resulted in my wiring the lights for the search insert and the adjacent gi light backwards. This explains why my search insert had been lit constantly since the conversion! (Wasn't there someone else here who was having this issue?) Heads up to those who follow. I recommend holding off on fully reinstalling the castle playfield until you can test to ensure that everything is correct in test mode.

I ordered my 2.0 kit in May but didn't get around to installing it until just recently. Butch at JJP says this was an error in the instructions that he has since corrected. So if you're ordering a kit now it sounds like it probably won't be an issue, but if you ordered your kit awhile ago and are sitting on it you might run into this.

#8863 12 months ago

Just curious - can the buffered and unbuffered 7.5v boards be intermixed?

#8866 12 months ago
Quoted from adol75:

At 270$ a board, I guess it's time for a 2.0 upgrade, I knew it would have to happen, I was just hoping for later !

....or a set of used boards! (Insert shameless ad bump here.)

Archived after 11 days
Not sold
Parts - For Sale
Used, good condition “Priced to sell! Don't want to spend $800 plus 12-15 hours on a 2.0 conversion? Well here's the solution - a full set of 7.5v unbuffered light boards for woz! Includes a full set of...”
Los Altos, CA

#8869 12 months ago
Quoted from adol75:

You’ve just shamelessly woke up my lazy gene !
Too late though, I went on JJP website and for once the 2.0 kit was available, I figured it was a sign so I ordered one.
But thanks to you I’ll lower my hopes of reselling my old board set with a dead tin man.

Plan on installing additional gi lighting along with the 2.0 kit (unless you always play with considerable light in your game room). The 2.0 conversion makes the game absurdly dark. The plastics are barely lit, let alone the playfield.

#8871 12 months ago

The insert lenses are fine. The general illumination, not so much. The following photos were taken in a very dimly lit room (so that they would show the playfield illumination from the game itself without much help from the room lights). This took some adjusting with my camera settings because modern cameras are really good at compensating for different light situations and making things look better than they really do. I feel that these are VERY close to what my game looks like in a dim room to the naked eye.

Here is a photo of the game in test mode with all of the leds (inserts and gi) set to white:

P9190106 (resized).JPG

See how all of the inserts are nice and bright? Good, right? But look at the slingshots and the other plastics that have the gi lights under them. They are barely lit. Barely any light transmits through the plastics (I had to look under the brown one at the lower left of the playfield to see if the light was actually working). Almost no light makes it onto the playfield from the gi.

For the next photo, I toggled the test mode into gi only, again set to white.

20190919_221637 (resized).jpg

Comparing the two, you can see that under the 2.0 system the game is really only lit by the ambient room lights and the inserts. Had I turned off the lights in my game room, you would not have been able to see the playfield art in the second photo at all.

I reached out to JJP about this. Butch looked into it and concluded that this is standard 2.0 light operation. He said that since the light tubes for the gi are not as efficient as the insert lenses at transmitting light, the gi lighting is always going to be dimmer than the inserts unless something can be done in code to allow the gi to be turned up. He said he would send a note to the code team about it.

Aside from the propensity to occasionally fail, I miss my original lighting.

#8874 12 months ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

After having purchased the 2.0 system, I hope they dont come out with a 3.0 system with brighter GI lights
Hopefully something can be done with software.

My thought exactly.

#8884 12 months ago

My favorite part about the monkey is how it goes up and down and brings balls to the witch.

#8933 11 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

It's the kernel and motherboard chipset that matter the most. But the further we get away from the chipset in WoZ and its successor in Hobbit with Intel chipsets (Intel H61 in WoZ, Intel H81 Express in Hobbit and after), the more likely it will be that a board will not work or may work with issues.

Has anyone reached out to JJP to ask what their plan is to address inevitable motherboard failure down the line? It worries me that we might be looking down the barrel of a situation like any old solid state game where motherboards have to be repaired on a component level or wait for a third party to build a custom replacement board.

2 weeks later
#9159 11 months ago
Quoted from adol75:

I have another problem with my 2.0 lights.
The Search light on the castle playfield stays white when it should be green.
I thought there was a problem with his data cable but when it rolls colors with the rest of the playfield (on ball drains) it turns to the right color perfectly synced with all the other lights.
Could it be a software bug ? I’m still on 6.61, I didnt see any reason to update the code but this could be one.

I had this problem. There was an error in the instructions that caused me to use the wrong wires for the two single light boards at the rear of the castle playfield. Run a GI test. If the search insert is lit during the GI test, you need to swap the connections (castle light board ends only) between the GI light and the search insert.

#9191 11 months ago
Quoted from Gotfrogs:

I think that is really common! Mine also broke after just a week or two of play. There is a video on YouTube on how to replace that part. I replaced mine with a Titan one.

I had that rubber break several times in a couple months. I tried regular black rubber and Titan rubber. They all broke. I finally turned down the strength of the slingshot kicker below the oz lanes and haven’t had a problem since.

#9217 11 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

How many just have a standard and still love it?
What is the biggest omission?

I have a standard and don’t regret it at all. I love it. Toys can be added at will. All of the differences between JJP models are purely cosmetic (aside from 2.0 boards and the omission of the YBR monkey). I personally do not like any of the colored editions red, green or yellow. To each their own. It’s not like a Stern where different model levels actually affect gameplay.

#9220 11 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Agreed. The direct-print cleared cabinets JJP did for ECLE are amazing. Spooky is doing them as an option, calling it the "butter cabinet."
JJP should make direct-print, clearcoated cabinets the standard for the CE level of their machines. They'd sell out since there's no way to approximate it even, short of spending thousands of dollars.

I agree that the clear coated direct print cabinets are a nice cosmetic touch. Fun fact: some first run standard editions (mine included) have that same cleared direct print cabinet.

1 week later
#9267 10 months ago

I think I’m giving up trying to sell my old 7.5v boards as a lot. At $250 it doesn’t seem like it’s a bad price point, right? So I’m guessing that it’s something else. Maybe that the one large board that’s not working is the fish shaped one in the middle? I dunno. If there’s still no movement in the next day or so, I’m going to put them on the market here and on EBay individually to make random, single board failures easy to fix and waaaay cheaper than buying a board from JJP or buying a complete used set.

#9270 10 months ago
Quoted from bigbadmiker:

It's not that one of the boards isn't working, but that you have the unbuffered boards. I saw 2 sales of 7.5 buffered boards sell quickly. From what I have read in this thread, the buffered boards are much more reliable than unbuffered. The replacement boards sold individually from JJP appear to be 7.5 buffered.

Interesting - someone else suggested that it was a buffered/unbuffered issue making buyers shy. My understanding is different regarding buffered/unbuffered boards. Both are prone to failure. JJP started with the 5v system. When problems arose, they went to a 7.5v system. When the same problems continued, they tried the buffered 7.5v boards. When the same problems continued, they went to the 2.0 system. To my understanding, the reason JJP sells the buffered 7.5v boards in their online store is simply because that is the last model that was in production. 7.5v buffered and unbuffered are fully interchangeable and compatible. Both are prone to failure (as are the original 5v boards). The bigger issue is the flawed daisy chain design of all the pre-2.0 systems that wreak havoc with everything downstream in the event of just one single diode even partially going out. Frankly, given how much work installing the 2.0 system was AND having to pay $800 for a product that resulted in a dimmer game, I wish I had bought a couple used boards myself rather than investing so heavily in a full conversion.

1 week later
#9319 10 months ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

The GI dim issue with 2.0 is real... definitely significant. I’m disappointed with the results... makes zero sense.

Definitely disappointing and frustrating . I had to take a break from working on WOZ after my 2.0 conversion so I wouldn’t grow to hate a great game from working on it too much all at once. Now I’m picking up the tools again and adding spotlights and trough lighting because the game needs SOMETHING functional for GI.

#9323 10 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Exaggerating. The 2.0 GI is a little dimmer, but WoZ was a dark game from day one. Whether you have 1.xx or 2.xx lighting buy a few spotlights, problem solved, move on. It's not the only pin with a dark playfield.

Not an exaggeration. Pre-2.0 conversion, I was happy with the lighting (except for the fact that it was buggy as hell). Now I can’t see the ball well enough to play without pointing a light from the room at the machine.

#9331 10 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

If you had that large of a difference, something was VERY different about your machine or you didn't center the GI leds on the tubes at install of the 2.0 kit. But in any case, buy a few spotlights, problem solved. Not worth bitching about. WoZ is not the only pin with a dark playfield.

Not bitching - just stating my experience so that others who are faced with the choice of replacing defective original older boards or converting to 2.0 know that not all is well after the investment. More time and money will be needed. Nothing is amiss with my installation. I reviewed it via email and photos with JJP. They confirmed that it was correct and that their sample machine looked the same in terms of gi brightness. They also confirmed that gi brightness with the conversion is an issue that others have raised. They said they would ask their software people to look into it but didn’t promise anything. So again, I’m speaking up here because had I known about this when I was faced with the 2.0 conversion decision, I might have made a different decision.

#9359 10 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

The GI lighting can be corrected (and 1.xx lighting was dark, too, just not as dark) with a few spotlights and 30 minutes of time....

I would say the GI can be augmented (basically replaced) by spotlights (or stadium lighting, etc) but a big feature of a game like WOZ is rgb lighting that changes with the gameplay! Heck, for POTC JJP even made lack of rgb gi a downgrade for the standard models.

What you lack with a retrofitted 2.0 WOZ is effective/noticeable rgb gi. End of story unless JJP engineers yet another fix.

Yes, you can add spotlights without a lot of time if you buy a pre-made kit but soldering, shrink tubing, molex harness connectors and zip ties for a good diy job are going to take a hell of a lot longer than 30 minutes and guess what? No matter how you slice it, you'll still not have a machine that looks like it was supposed to. You'll have a machine where the inserts work (are we supposed to be super grateful about this???) and the rgb gi is barely visible. This after 12-16 hours of your time plus close to a thousand dollars ($830 + whatever on additional retrofit gi lights) poured into "fixing" the lighting. (Not to mention the fact that adding spotlights seriously obscures the artwork on the slingshots.)

Bottom line, JJP still hasn't gotten basic lighting engineered right for any of the original WOZ games. But the game itself is so good that some owners continue to defend them or minimize the insulting nature of the situation even after all this.

#9364 10 months ago
Quoted from avspin:

I have an RR also and I also have the two holes but it's not for the tornado.

I have an original standard with the same unused holes. Always wondered what they are for.

#9395 10 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Given how dark the game is at the slings, we came up with a low profile spotlight option that attaches to the slings and reflects light on to the lower playfield. We had these out to a tester and the feedback was positive on the install and the effect so ready to offer them more widely. Hopefully he will chime in.
It's shown in red, but we will offer it in green, warm white and cool white. The spotlights covers are 3d printed with a yellow brick road decal on top. The spotlights are 3 SMD LEDs. These are now available in our site and will be in our pinside shop shortly.
https://lermods.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fwizard-of-oz-pinball-spotlight-covers[quoted image][quoted image]

I was fortunate to get to be the guinea pig for lermods new lighting mod. That’s my game pictured above. The picture was taken is a dimly lit room. They really are a quick, easy and effective way to add some light to the lower playfield. They come with a pre-made harness with a splitter that makes tapping into the existing 12v spotlight power a breeze. I installed the whole mod in less than 10 minutes!

2 weeks later
#9529 9 months ago
Quoted from mjs2:

I get this when I turn on game... Any ideas
Thanks in advance.
Mike[quoted image]

This happens to mine sometimes when my nine year old and his buddies have been playing unsupervised. I always suspect a mid-game frustration, too quick toggle of the power switch in an attempt to start over. Sometimes I have to do a full reinstall of the operating system to get it back in order. Sometimes I’m lucky and a few slow power cycles does the trick.

1 week later
#9549 9 months ago

I’d like to make a switch controlled illuminated winkie target. I’ve got all the parts I think I need but, being more of a visual artist than an electronics tech, need some wiring advice. I’m thinking I make a molex splitter to tap into the 12v from the castle spotlight. After that, I’m thinking that the neutral wire goes to one leg of the new bulb socket while the positive wire goes through the micro switch and then to the other leg of the new lamp socket. Could someone please confirm or correct my wiring logic? Also, is there any need for a diode on the switch wiring? I’m thinking not but am unsure.

#9569 9 months ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

I’d like to make a switch controlled illuminated winkie target. I’ve got all the parts I think I need but, being more of a visual artist than an electronics tech, need some wiring advice. I’m thinking I make a molex splitter to tap into the 12v from the castle spotlight. After that, I’m thinking that the neutral wire goes to one leg of the new bulb socket while the positive wire goes through the micro switch and then to the other leg of the new lamp socket. Could someone please confirm or correct my wiring logic? Also, is there any need for a diode on the switch wiring? I’m thinking not but am unsure.

Never mind. I decided to trust my own thinking. What I described works.

#9571 9 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

That wiring will work if you are adding a new switch somewhere and you are using a 12V LED or bulb, where/how do you plan to install the new switch?

Thanks, already done. I got longer #2 screws and mounted a secondary micro switch to the same mount as the factory drop target switch.

This was the last step in my post-2.0 conversion to get my lighting all modded. I went full diy on trough lighting, stadium lighting, balloon pop and winky target. I pulled off the spotlights and other stuff I experimented with. I just really didn’t like the uneven hot spots and visual obstruction of the spots and such.

I put the stadium lights on three separate controllers (1 for the rear, 1 for the sides and 1 for the trough) to control color and brightness independently. I also stopped the right side stadium lights short of the huts to avoid over lighting that area, especially the hut roofs. I’m happy with the results. (The rear of the game actually doesn’t look that blue/purple in person. That’s an odd artifact of the photo.)

I can now play in a dark room!

459AB344-716E-4E0A-B78D-8B3C29BA6A09 (resized).jpeg
#9577 9 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You can magnetize balls by heating in an oven at 350-400 degrees for 45 mins.
Let them cool naturally.

What a great trick! I’ll have to give this a try next time I get sticky balls...pinballs, that is.

1 month later
#9745 8 months ago
Quoted from shiffdog:

Mine also broke fairly soon after I got it. I replaced it with a Titan silicone ring and turned down the slingshot power by a notch or two. I have not had a problem since.


#9783 7 months ago
Quoted from Elphaba:

thanks. I think I will invest in the standard edition.

Or make your own if you’re into that sort of thing. Easy enough and actually turns out better imo.

1 week later
#9805 7 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

My pants are getting tight for some reason.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Is blurry supposed to be suspenseful?

#9841 7 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Maybe your CB switch is acting up, and it registered three times on its own? Just a guess, but perhaps check the optos (I think they’re optos), make sure they are properly aligned and not being triggered from vibration.

I second this. I once had a switch on a game start to trigger from the shaker motor. Just needed to make a small adjustment.

1 month later
#9950 6 months ago
Quoted from JosiahCox:

Hi WOZ fans.
Wanted to get a quick estimate for current going costs for a RRWOZ as I am in the market. What do you all think the going cost for both a lightly routed and HUO RRWOZ is right now?
Thanks and happy flipping!

Price is a reflection of two desires. How badly does one want to sell? How important is it for you to buy? It’s two opposing desires meeting at a mutually agreed point. If you want to see some incomplete, unverified data, look through the Pinside market archive for WOZ. Beyond that, asking strangers for their pinball price opinions is simply muddying the waters of your own judgement.

1 week later
#10022 5 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

If anyone is wanting a playfield I bought one of these and they are in fantastic condition. The defect in mine is not really even noticeable.
ebay.com link

Looks like you might have gotten a good one. I looked at those about a year ago but didn’t buy one because many inserts still had bits of the casting arms visible, like they were installed without sanding them all the way off first.

4 weeks later
#10194 4 months ago
Quoted from jorant:

Question for you guys. The bulbs for my GI are super dark. I cannot see any setting to change that? Yes, there aren't as many bulbs, but they are flat out barely on. Am I missing something?
I have the 2.0 board upgrade for a 2013 standard edition. I check under all the little bulb domes, and they line up perfectly. Surely the game isn't THIS dark... is it? The GI may as well not even be on. Is there something I can do to make them actually bright?
Edit: I even went to pinstadium's website, and their BEFORE picture looks brighter than mine lol. Is it possible that the person before me didn't hook up the 2.0s correctly? Like, tied into the wrong power?

2.0 gi is barely perceptible in a lit room. Pathetic. JJP claimed they were going to try to do something about it, but nothing so far.

#10198 4 months ago
Quoted from jorant:

Maybe mine aren't working right? Mine look straight up off in a lit room, and barely perceptible in a dark room.[quoted image]

Yeah - that looks more extreme than my experience of 2.0. I don’t know what to say about that.

#10206 4 months ago
Quoted from jorant:

Here is a video as well...
[quoted image]

That’s par for the course, unfortunately.

#10241 4 months ago
Quoted from johnnyutah:

Wish I could have a good experience myself but “Prices“.
To his credit, he answered all of my emails quickly (although vaguely regarding “There was a price increase”). I think the way it was worded I assumed JJP increased the price instead of Automated / pinballs.com adding the 1k dealer mark up themselves.
That said, going through Pinside search, definitely mixed reviews. I think it does say something when JJP tells you to go to them however. They directed me straight to Pinballs.com. That was reassuring to me. Most complaints I read was about their pricing, not service. Their prices are high but people are buying. Who’s fault is that? They charge high, people buy, not their fault!
Those Ruby Reds are Probably all gone by now with a cool, free 3k In his pocket. Don’t blame him.
I’m Still on the hunt however. I’ve decided to not go the YBR route, Wonka is Still a possibility, but man, WoZ is what I truly want. Hopefully they do another run once they reopen and things get back on track. If not, that’s the way it goes.

Frankly, I wouldn’t get all hung up on powder coating. Rr, emerald, standard... they all play exactly the same. I’d steer clear of YBR due to lack of a monkey but any of the other three are equally fine.

#10264 4 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Curous why you would say ECLE is best but the RR comes with all the toys in it?

There lots of WOZ others who are very attached to their color of choice. Again. we’re talking mostly about powdercoat, not gameplay. WOZ is WOZ, except YBR which is a whole different monkey (or more specifically, lack thereof).

2 weeks later
#10365 4 months ago

My best score is 3.2 million and change. Lots of huge mode stacking. Easily over a half hour of “work”. I don’t think an extra half hour of awesome would increase my score fifty fold.

#10412 3 months ago
Quoted from Kkoss24:

Oh and do you still have it ? Enquiring minds wanna know....lmao

Glad you’re stoked! It’s fun to read enthusiastic posts like yours. Lots of folks probably aren’t answering your “what was your first pin and do you still have it” question here because this is a club thread, reserved mainly for talking about WOZ. Answering a fun question like that here tends to derail the thread. Your question is perfectly suited for being its own topic. Start a new topic then circle back and post a link to it here!

#10427 3 months ago

Also, it’s not the connectors themselves in the pre-2.0 lights that are the problem. The problem is that all the boards are daisy chained together like cheap Christmas lights. One goes out, everything downstream goes out.

#10436 3 months ago
Quoted from Kkoss24:

I’m having trouble with the ball getting stuck under the house somewhere usually coming down the lanes.I have machines right side up against a wall couldn’t see it .Its been happening alot.When I get home from work tonight I’m gonna open up and have a look besides any hanging cables does anyone know some things I should look for thanks a bunch.

Probably right at the top of the shooter lane. There’s a slightly flat spot there that a slow rolling ball can come to rest on. Next time I take my munchkinland playfield off, I’m going to see if I can make an adjustment. In the meantime, get good at nudging it lose without tilting. Usually a forward/backward series of nudges does the trick.

4 weeks later
#10717 88 days ago

Taste does vary wildly, but having owned a dozen games (7 currently) only WOZ and Stern ST premium are bolted to my floor. I also recommend playing in a league once the pandemic is over. Leagues are a great way to gain regular exposure to a wider variety of machines.

#10760 85 days ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Does anyone else frequently get a loud metal smack and loss of momentum when plunging?

Yes. I have yet to put a slow motion camera in place to see why though.

1 week later
#10814 78 days ago
Quoted from adol75:

My monkey releases the ball when I hit the flipper buttons

Mine is the same way. Why would hitting the flipper button make the monkey drop the ball? Doesn't seem like nearly enough vibration.

Also, as long as we're talking magnets, my Glinda and Dorothy magnet under the house exit sometimes doesn't activate properly. For example, sometimes after saving the ball via completing TNPLH, the ball will just keep rolling after dropping through the spinning house exit hole. Not always, just sometimes. Any idea why?

1 month later
#11019 26 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Here are all the hints I gathered to check and adjust the monkey sense switch.
LTG : )
Prop the playfield up at the front so the ball will rest on the monkey
magnet. This way you don't have to try and hold the ball on the magnet
while initiating the test. Go into tests, Top Lane Magnet Sensor Test.
Close the coin door or enable power to the coils with the interlock
switch. Place the ball on the magnet and press enter. You should see the
Monkey Magnet Sense switch activate when the magnet turns on.
I had a Non-working sensor, which in turn gave me a error dot/report on the LCD (lower right corner/red square).
I flipped the board over (circuit board turned in) and then got a over-sensitive (working) reading.
I then started moving the board to different locations to try to find a working one (circuit board still tuned inward)
After moving the board to 3-4 different locations I came across this one that seems to work great (see pictures)
WARNING: when testing the magnet gets VERY HOT rather quickly while in test mode. I personally would suggest backing out of the menu (one layer) and unplugging the sensor in between adjustments.
If you are unsure of just how hot your magnet is, AT YOUR OWN RISK, touch it, if it burns your finger/hand you should probably back out of the test menu for about 10 minutes or so to let it cool down.
Remember, a hot magnet may give a bad reading.
My Monkey Magnet Sensor was also not working after upgrading to 4.0. All it needed was for the magnet to be flipped.
1) lift up the playfield all the way
2) unscrew the 3 screws holding the monkey magnet. there is no need to unplug anything.
3) carefully remove the magnet housing and center pole and you will see the donut shaped magnet
4) remove the magnet off the pole and flip it over and reinstall
To test the Monkey switch, you need to test it with and without a ball. If you go into the monkey magnet test (under device tests), you can hit the start button to activate the magnet. The switch should NOT be active when this happens. In the test, you should see the box for the magnet active, but not the switch. Then, hit the start button again, but this time with a ball on the magnet(easy to test this by having the playfield pulled up and on the first rail position). Now, your monkey magnet detect switch should be active along with the magnet. This switch will only ever activate if there is an active magnet present. Just putting a ball next to it won't do anything. Some of the games were built before this mode was fully vested out, so the switches may not be calibrated in the right position, and could use adjustment.
If your switch is always active when the magnet is on, you will need to re-position the switch. Try holding it in a place you can mount it, and try the magnet with and without a ball on it to see if it trips the way it should (only with a ball on it). Once you find a good spot, screw it back down and test it again.
Another complication is that the switch is a Hall Effect sensor, and will only sense a certain magnetic field orientation. If the big magnet underneath the playfield is not North South relative to the playfield, your hall effect sensor will not register. Because the magnet can be mounted in either direction, and there is no indication, there are a couple things you can do to make sure yours is correct, or simple ways to change it. Easiest thing to do is just flip the monkey magnet detect board over (so the hall effect, resistor, and connector are now away from the panel instead of against it, or vice-verse).[quoted image]

Can someone make this a key post?

1 week later
#11161 15 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Ok so curious. To get to the Witch in this game, you have to:
-Get Emerald City Multiball
-Get Rescue Multiball
-Get Munchkin Mode
-Get Fireball Frenzy
Is that correct? Do you have complete these modes?

You don’t have to compete them to qualify battle of the wicked witch. You do have to complete them (plus others) to reach somewhere over the rainbow.

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