Quoted from DeeGor:
Tried playing today. Rubber broke on the upper kicker.
Turn down the coil strength so the rubber will last longer. Also, if you're careful, you can replace the rubber without removing munchkinland.
What I know for certain is that the playfield pictured in the post by 1quartershort is a Mirco. No question.
If all you want is to take off the actual trees, it's 2 nuts then lift them off the pegs.
Quoted from tp:
So I'm trying to update to latest code. As of right now I have the
and the woz 606iso version
on my USB stick. Am I ready to update?
Okay first things first. I would take another flash stick and backup your settings and high scores before 6.06 full install re-writes your hard drive. This is important for coil settings and house adjustments so you don't have to do all that stuff all over again.
Use the green menus - utilities and back up your settings first.
Then, if you've used unetbootin to build the flash stick correctly for 6.06, start from game power off and plug in the stick. The machine will re-write the hard drive. After it's over, power off machine, remove stick, power on, then utilities menu and restore backup.
There is a 12v harness pigtail there in anticipation of the state fair balloon being lit, hence the adding of a "kit" or whatever is obvious; I personally like the balloon unlit but to each his own.
Data cables are wired wrong somewhere. That is, they are running from a board to another board not anticipated by the computer. Rainbow is the end it's not there. Go to the spot where it goes from okay to off by one and then compare the data cables - how they are routed versus how the chart on the chassis lid says they should be routed. At that spot you'll find the mistake.
Correct. You need data cables for it too. The power cable looks like its there and tucked back out of the way.
They'll send you the part with the bracket together. You just mount it with one screw and plug in the cables, then turn it back on in the computer.
On the crystal ball and as long as you seat the cable tightly you don't necessarily need to reglue it.
They often put the sticker in the packing list envelope on the box. If you don't have it, email Jen and they'll make you another one.
Anyone can put in a help ticket you just fill out all the information including the serial number (not game number - serial number begins with 087--).
Be sure to put in a valid email address also. You have to sign up the first time with an email and create a password but that's at no cost.
Raise the back legs - game plays too slowly with the feet all the way down all the way around. I believe in the manual / setup instructions it says to spin the back feet up half way.
I wouldn't panic over the non start. There is no shut down period. One thing you could check - inside right front opposite the power switch is the silver cover with the line fuse on it. It has one of those push down and turn tops and is spring loaded. You can try reseating it to make sure it's down properly in place. Sometimes they aren't down correctly and thus the game will be dead only to work again once they are reseated in place.
Make sure coil stop allen screws are tight. Move flipper in and out by hand and compare how that feels to a flipper that works properly see if you feel any resistance or rubbing or something impeding a nice smooth "thwack" when you hit the coil stop.
Make sure that you can pick the flipper up and move it slightly up and down (pretend you are trying to lift the flipper off completely from the top side) there should be slight up & down movement over the plastic bushing (feel the good flippers again first). If the flipper is down too tight, it will drag and slow the flipper down
The customer never put it on, perhaps? The sticker usually comes in a packet on the shipping box if he bought it new.
Quoted from PtownPin:
Per the manual it looks like its fuse F708 or F702...how do I check the fuse? should it have a specific resistance value? sorry I'm a newbie?
Playfield glass off, slide playfield forward to the second set of "feet", then flip up and rest it against the top front edge of the backbox so that it sits firmly and you can use both hands to work. Silver chassis lid off (loosen thumbscrews, slide lid from right to left and lift out). Machine power on. Close coin door to restore High Power. Look at I/O board (largest board, left side). There are 10 fuses in one row and 4 more in the row above that near the top edge of the board. Each fuse has a red LED light near it. Light on = fuse is almost certainly good. You can test a fuse with a meter also as long as you do it with the game power off. The four top fuse are the "main" fuses and the ones in the row below are the secondary fuses so losing a top one will not blow the secondaries necessarily but they will be dark too.
GMA fuses, slo-blo type (normal or fast blow will not work), amperages are listed on the end cap of the fuse and also in the manual. Change fuses ALWAYS with game power off. Power up game, watch fuse. If it blows right away there is something in the circuit that needs investigating and then get back to me and I'll help you.
I doubt all three are blown although it's possible. I'm thinking examine 702 with a meter or at least visually. Pull it out and look at it. If it's blown, the other two LEDs on 707 708 will be dark but those fuses may be good. Examine them too but don't mix them up. F702 is 10am 707 is 6.3amp and 708 is 5amp.
Quoted from dirtbag66:
Quick question everyone:
What exactly does "Monkey Magnet Sense" do? It's the only switch that is RED on my dedicated switch test, but everything seems to be working just fine (magnet works, ball is picked up, etc.)
Ball goes up the right orbit, if it is supposed to do so, magnet grabs ball, monkey starts down. Magnet sense is mounted behind the back panel right there, and senses the magnetic field telling the game that the ball is holding on the magnet. You can test it during the monkey device test. Coin door interlock must be pulled out so that magnet will energize when you roll the ball up there. Game MUST see right orbit enter opto AND right orbit made micro switches for it to turn on the magnet above the OZ lanes and start the sequence. NOTE: with the software as it is now, if the game fails to see the magnet sense switch even though the magnet may actually be holding the ball, it will still turn the monkey around part way down (it assumes the magnet failed to grab the ball so it sends the monkey back home) HOWEVER, if this happens three times, the software decides that the magnet sense switch must be faulty and tells the game to ignore it and just send the monkey on down regardless. There is a bowling alley around the corner from the factory that has one of the first 10 WOZ games made and it doesn't even have a monkey magnet sense switch installed (nor is the harness for it even present), yet aside from player 1 game 1 of each day when the machine is turned on, you wouldn't know it because the game ignores the magnet sense almost right away if it thinks there is a problem. True story!
Right orbit: game needs to see the orbit entrance opto under the house playfield and then the right orbit made microswitch in order to activate the magnet and send the monkey down. Make sure the right orbit made rollover works with fast and slow rolled balls in switch test and or magnet sense test.
Nope it's plugged into the wrong spot on the opto control board underneath near the house. It should read as switch 16 in the white violet row 8. Go under and move the plug from the green socket to the violet. The green one stays empty on purpose.
Quoted from fnosm:
I believe the first time you hit the right orbit the ball is captured by the magnet and then drops to the O Z lanes after a brief hold. No Monkey Action if Capture Dorothy arrow isn't lit. After the first orbit you should be able to shoot the orbit without being stopped by the magnet. I am sure there are some rules that govern this functionality but I am not sure what they are. This is just an observation of how my machine works. Anyone know enough to comment on this?
Also I have noticed that since the latest update the Munchkin Magnet seems to stop the ball on occasion without any perceived reason, then lets it go after a brief period of time. Is this intentional? Is my game busted?
Munchkin magnet grabs the ball to attempt a slow feed to the upper right flipper when the witch is lit for something ala Magna Save on Dirty Harry. The top magnet grabs the ball whenever an orbit hurryup is scored, so if one is running down and you shoot the orbit (regardless of the capture Dorothy situation), the magnet will grab the ball briefly to allow the game to play the fanfare of collecting the hurryup, then drop it to the lanes.
I'm probably wrong but I thought all the 2.0 system did was let the rest of the game lights remain uninterrupted if one failed. I would assume you would still have to replace the same amount of messed up boards unless they went with more robust electronics. (less prone to static)
This is indeed wrong; 2.0 is completely re-engineered from the ground up: It is loosely modeled after Hobbit but in practice it sets up and works most like the system that is in DI. It involves many cat 5 cables and a BAG board that runs the lighting system from underneath the playfield.
Turn the upper sling down in coil settings. 2 works fine or 3 gives you good action without over wearing the rubber.
Quoted from WackyBrakke:
I'm looking at a WOZ with a build date of 8/19/2015. I've been reading through some of the threads about the light board issues, but it is not clear to me what the resolution was and what build dates have all the correct working components. Can someone help me figure this out as I don't want to grab a problem game that won't be under warranty. Thx
WOZ 2.0 build began December of 2016; in 8/2015 it would have 1.4 buffered boards
The led board versions are +5v unbuffered, then 7.5v unbuffered, then both got buffers added, then 1.1 7.5v buffered, 1.4 7.5v buffered, then finally 2.0 which is a new system entirely.
Hey - take a look in from the right side at the solder joints on the lock release coil. You could have a broken solder joint where the wire is still in place but subject to vibration. I’ve seen that cause your repeated lock arm open and close issue.
Two things: under the playfield is an opto control board (in this case the right side one) - the lock optos are the first three plugs (starting with Black in the front). Make sure they are all pushed in tight (they click into place). Put the game in matrix switches test and tap your fist between the slingshots on the playfield to create vibration with no balls in the lock. See if the vibration causes one opto to read off and on.
Two: look in from the right side at the lock coil (under the munchkin hut decoration) - I have often seen the solder detach from the coil tabs but stay through the hole (the wire does) so that vibration makes the wire connection intermittent and thus the lock arm repeatedly goes up and down.
Quoted from GrimDog:
Well, game lasted 3 days till the light boards died. 3/4 if the play field is a strobe light mess now. Gamble on old game failed
Not the end of the world. If the game was just moved, go over every power plug and especially data cable on every light board and make sure they are pushed in tight to their sockets. NEVER unplug or plug in any power (black/purple) LED connector with the game power on, but data cables you can manipulate fairly freely. Chances are something is loose, at worst you have one board failing and you can find it by just following the chain. LTG and many of us can help.
Spotlights are different not controlled lamps - 30 is the small gi board in the front left corner of the castle playfield. It has a long output data cable that feeds gi 13 bottom left corner of the main playfield.
Move the long green input data cable from 13 in to 14 in see if 13 is the issue. Make sure the long cable on 30 coming out of the red is in tight.
Okay try jumping from 10 out to 13 in. That skips 12 and the castle playfield entirely in case 30 is the issue.
Do you have a unified power supply? Front right section of the board chassis in the bottom center of the game, is there a printed circuit board there with a bunch of fuses and LEDs on it?
Match in the game settings what you did physically - turn off woz5 and whatever else you bypass and the colors will correct.
You can get a spare 16” cable from the company if you want. That will allow lots of range for jumping. Plus, you can unscrew the one screw holding on a gi board and move it around in the air to make it easier.
== Version 6.60 December 12, 2017 ==
=== Game Code
* Improved initialization for 2.0 LED system on older motherboards
* Fixed lamp effects on Skill Shot and Toto Escapes
* Tweaked lamp color in TNPLH to be more sepia-ish
* Don't show Today's High Scores page if there are none to show
* Removed adjustment to kick out locked balls at game over (always ON now)
* Toto Escapes: drop target now stays up (just like TNPLH)
+ Added some sounds to a few targets that were silent
+ Added some speech in a few places
* Winkie Drop target knockdown coil hit softer on first kick
=== Core Code
* Fixed audio mixing issue that resulted in distorted sounds
* Fixed ball tracking error caused by losing ball from lockup during ballsaver
+ Added CUSTOMIZATION sub-menu under UTILITIES in Diagnostics
* Fixed a drain/tilt condition that could cause a game to hang
* Suppress knocker when Match is skipped via start button (on free play only)
+ Added check for switches stuck closed/open at power up
+ Added check for any opto switch working at power up; multiball devices will
not kick if no opto switch working
+ Added display message at power up if Test Report error detected
* Trough will abandon kicking after a while
+ Added check for all trough switches closed (including jam); trough will not
kick when this condition detected (likely a failure of the trough board);
game will not start during this condition, and a Trough Error message is
* Multiball devices will abandon kicking with coin door open now; abandoned
devices will kick when door is closed
+ Added Knocker Strength adjustment
* Turned on Test Report "dot" Paid Play preset
* Turned off Today's High Scores for Paid Play preset
* Fixed "Last Game Scores" displaying after Factory Reset
* Removed erroneous "Coin Door Open at Init" logger event when exiting Diag
* Hide Pindemption presets when not enabled via dongle
+ Added Status Report Start Time adjustment
* Allow main screen scale/offset adjustment on all monitor types
* Fix for screen freezing with older motherboards.
Also that plate has a proper side that should face UP and down - maybe yours is flipper the wrong way ?
Quoted from chuckcasey:
When I had the Muchkinland playfield off I checked - full operation. Spring on the house door opens and closes and the rest operates perfectly.
So, tested it again (started Munchkinland - house spins) during game play and same thing, half way open. I manually turned the house about 1/4" CCW, manually pushed coil plunger and WAMMO!.
I need to adjust where the house stops. That's the problem. Anyone know how to adjust where the house stops spinning?
Tests - device tests - spinning house test. Two numbers on the screen. Bottom adjustment is for coil strength for the feet. Leave that one alone. The top one is where you adjust the timing. Change it up and number or two, test by hitting start button to spin house and see, adjust again, etc. It can go into negative numbers if you need to and you may need it to do so. Warning: two things to know - first, always err on the side of the feet not quite coming down enough rather than too much, because if the feet come out all the way, the spring won't be able to pull them back in and on the next house spin, the feet will still be out and it will get stuck. Second thing, the house always travels slightly - very slightly - farther in game play than it does in test mode, so when you are finding your setting, cheat in test and have it just slightly not quite far enough compared to where you want it to land, then try it in a game and it will be spot on.
Using a few 7.5v boards on a 5v machine is okay. No harm done. The thing you cannot do is go the other way - if you run 5v boards in a 7.5v game they will work for a short while, then fail.
On the munchkin loop upper switch, it can sometimes hit the cables beneath the playfield wood when the arm is traveling down. Make sure it can go up and down smoothly and it not rubbing on the edge of the wood groove or hanging on or being impeded by something underneath.
Quoted from dnaman:
Folks, what has been some of the ways to fix the release of balls from the munchkin lock?
I think that I have tried everything.
IE: bending the small resting tab underneath the lock bar which holds the balls back (the lock bar which raises and lowers with the coil). I have bent this down and up, both in varying amounts. Basically resulting in the arm letting the first ball through and the arm sitting on top, or slightly top front of the next ball, or letting them through. Note: if I bend the tab to allow the arm to almost sit on the plastic subway then the first ball seems to cup into the backside of the face of the arm and the coil won't pull up the arm. I have put tape across this opening to see if the position of the arm solves the release of multi-balls but it does not.
There is a coil setting for the release timing of balls 1,2 and 3 when locked and releasing them for multiball. I don't believe that has anything to do with what I need. That would just allow you to wait between releasing the balls.
I think that the pitch of the pin is ok. Not sure what else to try. This makes it bad (unfair) for a multi-player game of course.
In the factory they use a 1/4" thick plastic block when adjusting the height of the bottom of the "U" on the lock arm to measure the distance between it and the plastic ramp below. Now please stay with me here I will try my best to explain what I mean. You mentioned the small "tongue" tab underneath the metal arm. That is the key as you said. What you want is to adjust the arm so that the landing spot is 1/4" above the plastic ramp. Naturally there is a bit of bounce as the arm lands and you wouldn't want the thing to come crashing down and land on the 1/4" block hard (imagining it were always there even during game play) as if it naturally it wanted to land lower, you want its resting place to be JUST 1/4" above the plastic ramp surface. Ideally your adjustment would result in the arm being in this position: you have your 1/4" block and the arm is down at rest, okay? You take the block, place it on the ramp and slide it toward the arm from the front - you don't want it to hit the bottom of the "U" on the arm and stop, you don't want it to push the arm up noticeably while sliding through but you also don't want it to completely miss the arm altogether not touching it at all - ideally what you want is for the block to (for lack of a better term) kiss the arm gently on the way by. That's the best result you can get. Now when you are making the adjustment, one of the most common things to do is one you want to avoid especially, and that is, when looking in from the side, it is tempting to think that to adjust the arm to the correct spot you can just grab the rear "wall" of the bracket behind the coil and tweak it forward a bit or pull it back a bit. Try NOT to do that; it's easy to grab and you would think that would be a quicker fix but it can elongate the arm in relation to the optos and screw other things up and contribute to the ball stopping short of the front wall of the arm as you described because it is too low and out of place. That can get more things out of kilter so try not to touch that at all. Just go for the 1/4" over the ramp surface adjustment and THEN you can use the timing settings you mentioned - they actually can help because the balls and the arm behave differently when there is one ball locked up there versus two and then three. If the arm isn't getting down fast enough when it is releasing one of two balls that are parked there, you can shorten that time but then tweak it differently when there are three balls up there depending on how the arm behaves then. You can use the timing settings as needed to tweak how the arm behaves best in each situation so they can be useful. However, first things first, get your arm height adjusted properly and then before you do anything else, experiment with it by starting a game with the playfield down and the glass off. Start a four player game and then lock one or two for player one and then start looping the ramp while playing player two, judge how the arm is handling things with two balls locked and another arriving again and again, then lock one for one player and loop the ramp with no locks lit and see how it handles one, and so on - you get the idea - if it's mostly good, then tweak your timing settings and get it dialed in as best you can. You are never going to get it perfect every time but you should be able to get it to be pretty consistent and it all works off of the proper height adjustment for the arm to start with and then work from there on the nuances. If everything fails, you can of course turn on the virtual lock setting in the software so no one in any multiplayer game or anytime has to deal with any unfair situations involving the lock. Hope that helps.
Advice you did not ask for: get the kit, grab the packing list and the instructions and lay out everything on a nice flat open spot so you can see everything including all the spacers and everything. Make sure you have everything and all looks correct. You can not thank me later.
throne room vuk opto switch 15 AND witch down switch 23 share row 7 the white with blue trace. Chances are something else on that row has a broken double wire and that’s knocking out both of those. You were fiddling around a lot under there so something got bumped or broken. If you want a guess, check the bottom of the skill target on the left middle edge amongst the pops. That target snags on the playfield going up and down and chances are you lost the blue and white there. If not, follow along row 7 on the matrix and check each switch one at a time. Somewhere you’ll find a break I’m betting. Start with the skill target though. Trust me.
That looks fine - remember that the first 6 small inserts in the yellow brick road are different than the rest but LED wise that looks good.
They did change them slightly - no more microswitches up there now optos on top on castle playfield.
Automated updated their older stock with 2.0 kits. I too have an escalera bought from Flip n Out and love it. Congrats on the new game!
Technically I guess, yes, since they can shuttle games down in groups and have the kits installed at the factory.
Put a piece of electrical tape across the magnet and it won’t do that - swap out the pinball.
Unplug and replug the male connector going into the pink jack on the sound board. If you have a noise filter installed, by pass it in case that’s causing the problem.
No rr games that exist now have the boards in the head. The next run of rr games, should there be one, would have the boards up top like DI and pirates.
Also you can gently flex that clear plastic out of the way without pulling out the mounting posts as they are flexible. I’ve always been able to do it with an 11/32 nutdriver.
Witch came up because you lost the 5v dc to that opto control board. Motor keeps running until it sees that up opto and it never did.
Does he go back up the hill in test mode? If he does, the problem is he is “plugging” on top of the pinball because he is traveling too far down just a bit - a thread or two - on his threaded rod. Imagine you took off the monkey decoration and could see the small magnet coil - you want him to stop so that the farthest edge of the small coil (not the plastic) bisects the playfield magnet core exactly. Adjust up the bottom microswitch arm JUST a bit so that he stops just higher on the hill than you would think he should. Just a tad sooner than now and his magnet will pull the ball over ever so slightly before lifting it up. Too far down he stops exactly as you describe.
Manually means backing them up the way you always have using the utilities menu I think
Magnet sense board components face in towards the back of the back panel do not overtighten
You need to use Rufus or unetbootin to make your flash stick for a full install update like 7.01
Using small tongue under lock arm, adjust height of arm. You want the bottom of the U at front of arm to be exactly 1/4 inch above surface of plastic ramp surface. That’ll solve release problems. Pull playfield forward to reach it no disassembly required.
Quoted from pinballinreno:
The used/refurb ones should be ok.
You cant beat the $40 prices.
There's a new open box one on Ebay for $52
I would definitely get the ebay one while you can.
Can someone post the mainboard from a black arrow hobbit?
They are compatible.
Meanwhile there are plenty used mainboards out there or new for a high price:
JJP lists the populated mainboards for $199 but claim to be out of stock.
I would call and verify this, its also a good price
Not out of stock at the factory; the web store isn't always up to date. Still, your other information is valuable.
Check the connectors at the back of the silver board box in the center, inside and out. One there is for the woofer.
Loosen the screw holding the wall, pull the wall away, retighten the screw. I’ve seen that work often.
I assume you bumped up the coil power setting and that didn’t help? Default is 10 or 12 but mine works perfectly on 9. YMMV
Munchkinland loop upper is the top house playfield rollover and is not a guarantee to be hit especially if novice players play. Test switch tests matrix switch tests and roll the ball around the house and see if it works. If it does error will go away.
Almost impossible is too strong but it can be tricky for sure. In my experience the weakest spot to get consistent hits is dead center as you say. You did try working the sliders underneath right? I mean loosening the nuts and moving the switch brackets? That can be the answer more than bending switch actuators. Behind the bash plate (I call it that - the thing that gets struck by the Ball) are springs that can resist against its moving and keep it from getting stuck back too far. Behind the front strike plate there are two places where it attaches to the bracket through two parallel holes and the spring keeps it straight and absorbs the impact of the Ball but it still needs to push the switch actuators open - think of it as a more elegant version of the safe on Sopranos where the impact from the front tries to push the metal “flags” into and thereby close the microswitch actuators which are normally open. This is the reverse with normally closed switches having their arms pushed away. So it’s a bit counterintuitive in a way. I’m just glad the same mechanism didn’t end up on the Hobbit production model as it was supposed to most of the way through the design process. Anyway, it’s certainly doable. The last software version but one also changed the de-bounce (if that’s right - need Keefer) timing so if your witch was for lack of a better term dialed in before, and then you updated to 6.60 (I think), it might no longer be perfect.
Nothing is exactly bulletproof, granted, but the failure rate on all iterations of what is essentially the woz 2.0 light board system is a tiny fraction of what it was on the original system. No getting around that when push comes to shove.
There is no point in you and I debating it anyway since it is not a profitable exercise. The difference between the various LED systems is out there for people to experience on their own as time goes along. Me firing statistics at you wouldn’t matter because at the end of the day JJP owners games have the light boards they have and there is no debate or argument for “should I upgrade my LED boards” on any of the 4 newer tables, it’s only WOZ. The 2.0 led upgrade kit wasn’t developed because Eric and the gang had nothing else better to do, obviously there was a need and the realization that the existing need would only grow because the life cycle of the chip on the 1.x boards on the majority of existing WOZ machines was ending. Every kit sold not only takes one more of the finite number of WOZ games out of the subset of games featuring non 2.0 but it frees up the owner to sell off their original boards, thereby cutting down their own cost substantially but also resupplying the pool of available 1.x boards to help the remaining original owners. The kits are selling very well and are performing beautifully for the most part and that’s all good news. The failure rate on 2.0, Hobbit, DI and pirates led boards is so low that it is almost statistically insignificant, whereas the rate on 1.x WOZ boards is much higher.
Quoted from bobukcat:
1: What do you mean by released instantly? Is the Monkey not picking up the ball (it should) or is it picking it up and dropping it before it gets up to the lock position in the castle?
2: This is not normal, the only times I get un-intended multiballs, which is rare, is if I have ball(s) locked in the Munchkin lock, lock is not lit and I hit the ramp two balls will escape instead of just one being released due to timing of the lock release mech. If you are randomly having them released from the lock at other times I'd suspect an opto or trough switch (I suddenly can't remember if WOZ uses switches or optos in the trough but I think it's switches) issue. Is it always released from the munchkin lock when this happens?
P.S. Welcome to the club!
Ooooh so close... optos, we were looking for optos in the trough. He's on it - also check your settings to make sure monkey lock isn't set for virtual otherwise the door opens every time the game sees the monkey lock switch behind it. You have a ghosting or doubling opto issue I would guess - hitting some switch triggers ramp ball lock three or some switch that then tricks the lock into thinking an imaginary ball is approaching so it raises the arm to let a ball out and keep the flow going. Tests - switch tests - matrixed and then start touching them by hand - you will find something.
Hi Sir I emailed Andrew yesterday explaining the peculiarities of the crystal ball (understanding of which becomes second nature after awhile, much like the bank door ramp stopper on Monopoly).
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:
Fellas, any ideas please what’s wrong with my crystal ball?... I bought my Pinball about 3 weeks ago(I’m new in your Club and this is my 1st JJP), sometimes while playing the game the crystal ball is fixed by itself, but usually I just have to restart the game to fix that.
Thank you.[quoted image]
Quoted from harryhoudini:
Does anyone know if this is the same as the flipper for the munchkin playfield? https://www.pinballlife.com/tspp-upper-playfield-yellow-mini-flipper-bat.html
Should be yes Sir
Diode leg on the Rainbow targets themselves is folded over touching the metal and thus ghosting the other side - look carefully at each rainbow target underneath and you will find it.
If you buy an OLED screen from JJP you can get a new programmed card to go with it.
2.0 system uses a bunch of cat 5 Ethernet cables and a hub board where they all plug in. Older led system uses data cables with red and green ends jumping from board to board.
Quoted from dnaman:
I recall reading about the Automated green edition. Don't know that it had Invisiglass or the direct painted and cleared cabinets. Was there a difference with the backlash maybe (mirrored or more of a green going on or something)?
No direct print cabinet, same backglass as the normal WOZ games. It's more or less a standard game with green armor, only 50 were made, originally with 1.1 or 1.4 LEDs but later the remaining stock was sent down by Automated to the factory so that 2.0 upgrade kits could be installed. Not sure how many he has left in stock at the moment.
Quoted from harryhoudini:
If the card works, why do I need a screen from jjp? Does the screen have unique programming or firmware installed on it? If so, how can I get that? I should be able to install a replacement not from jjp.
There's an additional step invovled that I personally have not done. The BIOS has to be re-flashed I believe and then the card is programmed and installed. With the BIOS from the manufacturer the monitor will not work (else why re-flash it?). That's what I've been able to learn so far anyway.
Quoted from bobukcat:
Wow, $11.5K and it's a translite instead of an actual backglass like the ECLE and RR have?? This hits keep coming on this version.
YBR has a screened backglass like the others have - granted I've only seen three total units but they all did. It's that way in the system and the manual also.
Quoted from harryhoudini:
Does anyone know if the main castle door mech changed at all? I was hearing all over that there would be one door, but the game I played had two. I am wondering if it was engineered differently at all. I guess I could go look at the updated manual to see.
There are optos for hit detection so that changed. There are still two double doors and the single door is now pretty much a decoration.
Good question - and by that I mean I don't really know - a little research is needed.
Quoted from hocuslocus:
I also just updated to the latest code. Noticed one annoying difference, when you get 4 horses of the wrong color (accidently) and shoot a lock it auto collects it when the new ball is plunged. It can be difficult enough getting a few stacks of horses, this is just gonna make it stupid to even try.
did it always do this? I had some settings changed a while back so I don't remember.
Known bug with 7.01
If you can only buy one Cliffy protector for the game, hands down that's the one to install.
Quoted from bigbadmiker:
One thing my wife pointed out was the 2nd “E” on rescue is only displaying the color green. It does turn off and on, but only green. I thought I saw it change color once. The rest of the leds change colors. Is this an easy fix?
I haven’t even lifted the playfield yet as my wife has been playing nonstop since it came home. I thought I’d ask here first before I start messing with it.
Put the game in ALL LED test and then walk through the colors one at a time Red Green Blue. See if one of the color LEDs has failed on that E
No you can use a few 7.5 small boards with a 5v game if need be. And the 2.0 kit is available it just has about a 3 week lead time right now.
Quoted from Rager170:
This is also being sold when they do a re-run. I was told by a distributor that the Flying Monkey will not be in the new runs. Not sure if thats 100% definite...
I have no doubt that's what you were told so I am not arguing with you. However, let's not take that as gospel assuming there will even be any more runs other than YBR.
Skip the usb extension cable plug into the port on the mobo
Those cables are notoriously flaky
Is your game a very early ECLE? A few made is out with a ramp post on the left that was 1/4” too short and thus the ramp doesn’t have the angle it should have and thus more ball hangups at the switch actuator. Other than that, yes it is a matter of adjusting the actuator properly.
Vuk opto is not hard to change. JJP can send you the entire piece with the sensors, harness and plug.
Quoted from Rager170:
also, for the trough VUK, on test, it fires strong. But while playing the game, barely makes it out if it even does.
This is because the coils are duty cycled - you said that this is your first JJP game - coil strengths are adjustable in settings. In test, the coil fires normally but in game it uses the trough coil setting and thus yours is either too strong or not strong enough. Simple to adjust.
This is what I think I would do - I would redownload 7.01 full install and rewrite the hard drive in case the software is corrupted- the stuff you are describing is very odd behavior. The monkey sounds like he needs adjusting at the bottom switch - it sounds like he’s traveling down just a shade too far and plugging on top of the pinball. Tweak up the bottom switch just a little bit so he stops maybe one thread sooner on his travel.
Yes - there is a test for that switch specifically. Follow the steps - make sure you pull out the high power jnterlock switch on the door (top white switch) first to turn the high playfield power back on. The magnet sense needs to see the ball stopped in the playfield magnet. To activate the switch the game needs to see the orbit enter switch (opto) then the orbit made switch (rollover) then it needs to see the pinball caught on the active top orbit magnet. Just holding the ball up there won’t do it. Make sure the harness didn’t fall off the magnet sense switch with the playfield moving in and out. Make sure the components on the magnet sense board mounted on the back panel are facing in toward the wood not backwards towards the cabinet rear.
Which monkey castle switch specifically? If the playfield when down in place is triggering any switch you should be able to see it easily in tests - switch tests - matrixed switch tests. Might I suggest you check the skill target (rectangular and in amongst the trees) to see if it is landing on the cabinet inside rail that holds the playfield up and allows it to slide forward. If it is shorting the bottom tabs of that switch - common with WOZ especially new WOZ games - that could be causing ALL of the odd behavior you were describing earlier. Playfield down - matrixed switch test then while watching lift up just a bit on the field and see what changes. Other possible source but less likely - ground braid stapled to the rear cabinet wall - playfield on the game is tight in the cabinet owing to the monkey mech back there. Look to the middle right side from the players perspective there is ground braid to the right of center if you push the playfield back and switches read - make sure it is FLAY flush not looped.
I hear you it’s a pain at first but you will absolutely solve it and then - commercial equipment in a home environment- you’ll be good. I am not discounting or making light of your frustration believe me.
Quoted from Rager170:
What is a noise filter? I know my machine has the 2.0 boards in it so that isnt much a concern... The monkey mech seems to be a mess all around. I took a good look at how all that works. Im surprised JJP doesnt offer a replacement on their website. Its easy to take off and put back on..
What kind of replacement? What is it you need? Once the monkey is dialed in he works pretty well overall. A noise filter is a ground loop isolator like they use in car stereos - cheap and widely available and knocks the surface noise/ static down. If you have an Automated GG (green game) your machine was probably built with one installed at the factory.
Bend the microswitch actuator down ever so slightly while holding the arm down closed against the body. Never adjust any microswitch without holding it closed or you will break the arm off the switch. Bending the curved end down a touch will allow him to travel a thread or two farther down. Too far and he will plug on top of the ball so not too far / you want him to stop just left of the midway point of the playfield magnet core with the monkey plastic removed
Yes white lithium grease shoot it on a rag and work it into the threads don’t leave excess or it will splatter all over everything.
Full install updates - which re-write the hard drive - clear the audits and settings whereas deltas do not - so always back up your settings using the utilities menu on a separate stick and restore them after doing a full install. Saves a lot of hassle.
It's all usually monkey home microswitch related - if he stops one thread or more too late (travels too far up the hill) the ball hits the round ball guide and spins back off the castle playfield and down. If he stops one or more threads too soon (less common), the ball doesn't make it all the way up to the drop "pocket" and falls down. Adjust the home microswitch accordingly just a tad until he drops it where he is supposed to drop it.
If he has red green and blue in attract mode then he should have white I would think because the game tries to make white by cranking the three colors to max intensity.
The Automated green games were built before 2.0 lighting was available but were later upgraded with 2.0 kits.
Quoted from Rager170:
Its not the winkie target as I was actually messing with that at the time. What is a trip coil?
This is like a ticking or clicking. Different from an actual coil stop noise.
Small coil that "trips" the drop target when the game wants to knock it down on its own. Mounted on the same assembly and sometimes can overheat under the right circumstances.
Quoted from Rager170:
I dont agree with white lithium.. no offense to others who use it. I constantly find it gunking up after a short while and then I have to clean it off. Maybe im applying too much but ive had to do this process twice with it and its just an annoyance to me.
I took advice and bought the super lube as mentioned. Havent used it yet but I believe it to be thinner than the lithium grease.
I mentioned it because that's what the factory uses; YMMV...
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