(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,875 posts
  • 470 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by pinballinreno
  • Topic is favorited by 216 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,067 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

454283EB-E3B8-4F54-8135-FFABE45E767D (resized).jpeg
0616192006 (resized).jpg
0616192006b (resized).jpg
0616192006a (resized).jpg
0616191840 (resized).jpg
0616192000 (resized).jpg
7AE25E36-1B4B-4A41-861C-702105CA30CB (resized).jpeg
8272CBAE-7A83-490E-B80A-1114A81398DB (resized).jpeg
IMG_1839 (resized).jpeg
E022828A-96D4-4F0A-BBC9-BFC8E6D0AFC6 (resized).png
11006B8E-B6A9-4A58-B143-63F83F44EED6 (resized).png
A47AC676-0362-4EC5-8F0A-DE55A6F8EBDC (resized).jpeg
0602192009b (resized).jpg
0602192009a (resized).jpg
0602192009c (resized).jpg
0602192009d (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (5 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (2 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (75 days ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (75 days ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (63 days ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (63 days ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (17 days ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider pinballinreno.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

484 posts in this topic match your search for posts by pinballinreno. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1411 3 years ago

I just reset all my hi-scores on my game.

The early code allowed for millions of points due to a bug. This was cool but kinda scammy, as you would have had to be there to get those high marks.

So after backing up all my settings and installing the version 6 code, and playing the game a lot, I determined that its not the same game at all any more! However it's so much better and FUN!

So my earlier scores were not relevant at all

I'm really enjoying putting my initials in again on this new game! Also my wife who has been getting better and better over the last 2 years is now on the board and kicking my a$$

Has anyone else felt this way or done this?

I'm beginning to think that I should reset the high scores each time there is a major change in the code as it would be a very different game.

1 week later
#1437 3 years ago

6.06 is the current version I think.

This might help (copied from #937 6 months ago this thread):

First, download the software by going to the link below
http://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/game-specific-downloads/wizard-of-oz-downloads/
Under the Full Game Install heading, Click on [Wizard Of Oz - Full Install ISO - 6.06]
The file is very large (about 4gB) and should take about 20min to download.
I recommend using IE (Internet Explorer) browser as I've had problems with Google Chrome not doing a complete down load.
When the download is complete you should make sure it downloaded okay by verifying the checksum.
To do this, you can run the utility listed below:
http://www.winmd5.com/
The output from the utility should match the following:
9ba0111a76e8b03af0792a8928601d66
(this is the code you get when you click on [MD5 CHECKSUM] on the JJP download site)
This is the most time consuming part of the process and will get you half way there.

Also note that updating the software usually isn't this complicated. Normally the updates are small (delta), require very little time to download and only have a couple of steps after. However, since this is a major update, a full install is required.

Make sure you back up your settings first unless you want to set it up all over again.

Use the Unetbootin utility for your mac on the JJP website down lower on the page that you got the code update from and make a bootable usb drive.

Stick the usb drive into the black USB cable end next to the left of the coin box and re-boot the game.
It will do everything by itself pretty much on start-up.

It can be a little scary as it pauses once in awhile a couple times but be patient it will finish when its done.

Take the USB drive out of the machine when its done to keep it from installing the OS everytime you start the machine.

I think the instructions are on the JJP site somewhere, they are also in the manual near the end pages E-6 to E-7

#1440 3 years ago

open up the version 3 manual from the jjp site it has pretty clear instructions on how to use the Unetbootin program.

Also its important to check your checksum! This is a big file and lots of stuff can happen to it while your getting it.
I know its a hassel but Ive had bad files piss me off too many times.

#1441 3 years ago

I finally installed the pinballbulbs Woz lighting kit.

WOW what a difference! The lighting is not too much, and not too little, the colors are perfect.

I did "tape over" the light strip in the back over the ramps (about 6 leds) due to reflection on the ramp.

The kit sent to me was different than the instructions, more refined, less wire.

It was a painless install that should have taken about an hour to complete, but as others have stated, I took my time on it.

I changed a bunch of rubber, original rubber from 2 years ago, (rubber kits from marco spec are missing tons of rubber!)and did a general cleaning while I had it open.
Fortunately I have tons of rubber, I just am lazy and like kits (never from marco again!).

I dont have to use my overhead lighting any more and can see everything properly.

Does anyone make a rubber kit that has all the rubber in it? And the rubber is fresh?

JJP should have it on their parts site, but does not

#1456 3 years ago

If re-seating the cable (both ends) and SD card. Loosen the cable from the wire looms and ties to see if its a crimped, bent or broken wire.
If that doesnt do anything, get a replacement ball assembly.

I had similar issues after about a month of play, including weird reversed images in the ball.

The replacement ball fixed everything and has not even flickered with 1500 plays on it.

#1466 3 years ago
Quoted from lurch:

OK, im gonna go this route since im thinking about making a crystal ball mod anyways.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/4D-Systems/uOLED-96-G2/?qs=72ObqG5T4UYobDDQ80ITTQ%3D%3D
This is the exact part, but since i have to replace it anyways, i might as well experiment with it. How cool would it be to have the crystal ball turn on by itself at random times? Like a real magical crystal ball, it would be to catch your attention.... sorta a "come and play with me" type of thing?

Some kind of topper would be very cool.

#1468 3 years ago
Quoted from lurch:

Like some sort of giant crystal ball topper?

That would be way cool or a projector for the wall behind.

#1470 3 years ago

click yes to all, its ok, just a little bug in the way it was packed

#1486 3 years ago

I can only go by my experience on this amazing game, others are welcome chime in with their adjustments.

The game is very fast for the 1st 50 games. It will settle down after that and adjustments are more meaningful.
I'm waxing/cleaning every 150 plays or so with wizards mist and shine (JJP uses it on the playfields before shipping), Novus 1 on the ramps and plastics, for now and have 1200 plays. I just recently waxed using PS21 since 1000 grand wax is hard to get for now.

I have my pitch at 6.5 measured from several places around the PF, and took an average.
I upped the lower flipper power by 2 or 3. If you are getting air balls off glinda, either put dead foam behind the target or go down a notch at a time until it stops.
On a clean hit to the ramp, from a cradled position, from either flipper, the ball should easily go up the ramp then slow down a bit after it makes it to the top.

Also make sure the flipper rubber is more towards the top of the flipper bat, this will stop air balls off the flipper on all of them.
I'm using the STC standard flipper rubber still on this game. I might put on the super bands, we'll see how they play.

The castle PF flipper should not be too agressive, it makes it hard to manage the door bounces and loops.
I settled about the default plus one maybe.

I upped the Dorothy flipper a couple and the munchkin flipper 1 or 2. I like the munchkin flipper to do 2 loops on a perfect hit, more than that is unnecessary.

The VUK's needed to be adjusted up a couple notches. Especially the crystal ball one, If the ball bounces out of the wire-form then you go down a bit.

The cross-over wire-form on my game needed tweaking to keep the ball on track (the ball would fall off in a high speed hit). It had a small bend in it that I removed. I also twisted it a tiny bit so that the upper wire was more level and perhaps slightly lower than the lower wire (used a crescent wrench with a towel around the wires to prevent scratching for twisting/bending and some firm hand bending).

Watch the game a bit and see if one of the outlanes favors another and check the left to right level. Or roll a ball down the center and see if it goes fairly straight (hard to do with the roll overs in the way).

I'm sure there is more, this is just off the top of my head.

#1489 3 years ago

Its not that neccessary to close the left outlane, it helps a bit but not as much as you might think.
Just increase the ball save time to at least 20 seconds for family, or max it out.

But if you must, the metal guide has adjustment, its under the plastic.
You have to remove the crystal ball and VUK wire-form to remove the long plastic to get to the ball guide. It's easy and fairly straight foreward.

One of the problems with this, is that the ball guide will stick out a little and the plastic wont cover it. this wont affect game play but looks unfinished, my wife said it was ugly and stupid.....So I had to mod it.

I, like others cut a slot in the ball guide with a dremel to allow for the rubber, or just shortened the metal by cutting off 1/4" and filed/smoothed it up before reassembly. Doing this wont affect game play either. Just make sure its nice and smooth so you dont cut the rubber when a ball hits it.

1 week later
#1512 3 years ago
Quoted from clg:

The mezel Winkie looks great but doesn't last. It is not strong enough and will break

I broke my original one, they sent me another one. I'm sure you can get a free replacement if you ask.

I have 1000 games on my "replacement" and it doesnt even look worn. Maybe I'm just lucky, or got one from a good flexible batch that wasnt too brittle.

#1521 3 years ago
Quoted from Vexx_182:

My castle door switches seem to be registering while my ball is in play down on the main play field. Ill be playing my game and then all of the sudden i hear the crack of the axe for the castle doors and the winkie music comes on along with the blacked out rescue letters up on the screen for about 2 seconds and then in goes back to normal play. Any ideas what may be causing this? Running the most current 6.06 Version of the software.

Also maybe check for any loose or partially loose connectors or cables under the PF. They should all be snug, including the cables gong to the computer (big silver box).

1 week later
#1546 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

I get more SDTM from pop bumpers then outlane drains. You moved both outlanes posts down to close them up as much as possible id assume?

Adjust the setting that allows you to turn off the pops when both flippers are pushed is a lot of fun and makes the pops more of a strategy than an annoyance.

#1547 3 years ago
Quoted from Vexx_182:

There is no arm on this switch. Its a little green button. Maybe i should just email jjp. Does anyone have a direct email to someone there who does game support stuff i could talk to and maybe get a description or steps to take for my issue?

Sounds like the door switch is misaligned or the spring or door stops need adjusting. Sadly these adjustments are difficult without removing the castle playfield.

Castle playfield removal isnt that hard but it does take about 15 mins and the right tools. The manual has exact instructions on how to do it.
Read the manual several times before starting as it makes total sense, its very good.

2 weeks later
#1620 2 years ago

At 2500 plays and about 2 years of time:

Replaced all the easy to reach rubber
Replaced the balls for the 2nd time
Buffed out the munchkin ramp
Cleaned and polished the easy to remove plastics
Vacuumed out the lower cabinet, blew out the dust in the computer with canned air.
Brushed off the PF wiring and boards with a horse hair upholstery brush.
Touched up the scrapes on the inner sidewalls with a sharpie and finger rubs.
Waxed the PF, ramps and outer cab (mine is screen printed).

Everything looks like new still, although the plastic over the winkie tunnel is taking a beating and will have to be replaced in another 1000 plays or so, but its a pain to get to.

#1622 2 years ago

I think its a standard practice to "touch-up" anything black for a temporary fix with a sharpie marker, just dont over do it.

You can rub it in a little while its wet and rub off any excess with a paper towel or cloth dampened with a little sparkle glass cleaner.
Finish it with a little novus one or any thin wax (furniture polish) and your good to go!

Of course itll all wash off but its ok for a lazy "working repair".

If you have a lot of side scrapes, put the felt strips on the edges of the PF, fill and sand deep gouges then spray the sides with semi gloss or satin Krylon.

But you have to remove the PF and its a messy job due to over spray.

I think the sharpie will get me through until I do a restoration.

#1634 2 years ago
Quoted from jrockne:

Thanks, So far it has been board #7, #2, and #5. I have the 7.5 boards, but the replacements boards I have been receiving are different than the ones removed, is the extra little board a additional line filter?
Something I noticed while going through the Ordered LED test menu... when I select LED #002 - Munchkinland RAINB(O)W instead of the O lighting the W does, and when I scroll down the list they are all off one position. Is this because of the #5 RGB board being bypassed? Thought it was weird.
Another quick question, Do software updates clear the "games played" Lifetime audit?

You can backup all of your settings to a USB flash drive before any update or total ISO load. The histories seem intact for each update or reinstall that ive done, but I always back up my settings.

1 week later
#1683 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Just wanted to add to this... blue tape was my method in the past...until one terrible moment when the tape slipped and I poked a hole right through a playfield.
I HIGHLY recommend getting a bit cuff that you can secure on the drill bit. No slippage. No pain. No tears.

I use something like this:

amazon.com link »

#1685 2 years ago

New Hi score for me with version 6 code.
3 balls outlanes on easiest

20160702_215004_(resized).jpg

#1688 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Glass on or off?

Man... That's quite an accomplishment

Glass was on, outlanes on easiest, My wife gets more out of the game that way. Even the castle PF outlane on easiest.

I had a score of 4.5 mil with earlier code, but the bug in the code gave incorrect scores so I reset all my scores when I upgraded to ver. 6

It was a great epic game. I battled the witch twice but didnt melt her this time, and nowhere close to SOTR

#1692 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Most of mine are default. I turned the trough up a couple notches because it was having trouble reliably ejecting a ball. I turned the bumpers down a couple notches with pretty much no effect on gameplay.
My slingshots I had turned down because they would sometimes airball out back to the shooter lane or down to the state fair balloon. Unfortunately that caused them to very consistently send balls to the outlanes (to the point where if it hit a slingshot you may as well walk away cuz your done)... So thats back at factory.
I'm thinking about putting a meter on the input power for the game since it seems like sometimes the coils are much more powerful than others, I'm thinking variations in grid power might be impacting it.

Variations in power affect game play a lot.
I have 4 games on one 20 amp breaker. I have them all set so that they play pretty good when all are turned on at the same time.

If I fire up only one game, like the WOZ or TH they play way too strong and fast.
Other than screw up all my settings, I just turn on all the games and the problem is solved.

Also sometime all the games play super fast and strong, when running at the same time.
This has to do with the available current on my street at any given time.
I have a 200 amp line to my house but I think once in awhile its less than that.

#1696 2 years ago

Make sure its pure canauba.
Must be paste not a liquid.

I use P21S its very good, leaves no white residue.

Should be like beewax and melt like butter, but leave no white residue.

See if you can get some of this, its also hard to beat, from maybe a marine supplier:

amazon.com link »

In a pinch maybe the mothers gold paste...not the best but it works, leaves white residue but less than others.

#1698 2 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

JJP recommends using a detailing spray called Wizard's Mist-n-shine

I got a gallon of the wizards mist and shine off amazon (o'reilly is supposed to carry it here but wont), It works really good for everything. Its like a heavier novus 1. It wears off after a few games, but is really good for a quick touch-up.

After I started using the P21S, I havent looked at anything else. It puts down the thinnest layer of wax and I love the lack of white dust and that it leaves an incredible shine that lasts.

#1706 2 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

This one...
amazon.com link »
or this one...
amazon.com link »

Quoted from pcprogrammer:

This one...
amazon.com link »
or this one...
amazon.com link »

I bought both, the blue is a beeswax blend. It goes on much easier and is cheaper, get the combo pak and get the free applicators. It seems to hold up as well as the silver but I probably wax it too often anyway.

The silver is pure carnauba, more expensive, a better more durable finish. Much better suited for pinball use.

So they are both great with the silver being more durable, better for routed games.

#1707 2 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Just got the mylar kit from JJP sent to me, they also sent those decals for the PF. Just thinking, should I just put down the decal in the state fair balloon area, for extra protection? I plan to own the game 10 years until the kids are off to college. My game is only 2 weeks old, the playfield is perfect. I haven't stuck down the mylar yet, just wondering if I should bother with those 3 additional stickers they sent. One is for the tree pops area, one is for the winkie target and one is for the balloon area, also have the mylar for all those areas too. Any thoughts?

You definitely need the mylar between the trees and the state fair balloon. Wax before putting on mylar or the mylar may pull up paint when it needs to be changed (yes the mylar will need to be changed at some time in the future). Also in front of the winkie drop target you get a lot of bounce.

The free kit JJP hands out is pretty good.

#1708 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I have Blitz wax. How does P21S compare to Blitz?

P21S leaves no white residue or dust.

#1711 2 years ago
Quoted from Fuego:

Hello, instead of Mylar, why not install the play field protector? Mine has over a thousand games and is in perfect condition.

Clearcoat plays better IMHO....
The poly protectors play differently, slower? Definitely different.
I want my games to play a certain way and am willing to pay for it. But everyone is different...Its pinball....

#1713 2 years ago
Quoted from 1quartershort:

Can any owners/fans characterize the call outs for WOZ? Considering buying. Played a lot of games on the WOZ at NWPAS and enjoyed it very much but I was really hard to hear the game there aside from witch cackles. For me, part of the enjoyment in some of my favorites; AFM, MM, MB are the call outs. Thoughts?

I also think the call-outs are pretty helpful during the game.
Unlike say the Theatre of Magic where the lady always gives you bad info because she wants another quarter....

#1718 2 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Just ordered this on amazon...
amazon.com link »
I totally struck out at Menards at Walmart. All the carnuba wax they had contained abrasive cleaners in it, no 100% Carnuba products.

Thats the right stuff, I really like it.

#1723 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Ah....ok... has that changed since early code?
If not, then this is an embarrassing admission of my suck-ti-tude

The game is light years ahead of early code. Quite amazing actually.

#1729 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Has anyone developed a reliable method of hitting the"b" in ball?

Start aiming for it during multiball works for me.

#1730 2 years ago
Quoted from Troz:

I don't know what dies (haven't had one fail on me) but the main component is the Allegro A6281 which was discontinued in Dec 2014.

What is a replacement/subsitution part?
Does JJP have new boards with current parts in case of failures?

#1737 2 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

So there's no more "might be joining" this club. My RRWOZ is being delivered tomorrow. I have a question about moving it. I'd like to be able to keep it in the box while moving it downstairs for protection. Is it ok to turn the machine onto it's side while moving it down the stairs? I would assume it's ok as long as the machine doesn't go upside down? From my research of the box size, it's 31x30x57.5 and that should be able to fit into my basement.

Only truck it from the side that says "TRUCK THIS SIDE ONLY".

The box is very big, I always have to un-box in order to get them into my front door at 36".

1 week later
#1789 2 years ago
Quoted from BladeFury:

Any ideas as I have tried rebooting and when booting Jersey Jack image fills the screen properly then after that things are either off to the left or to high on the display..unplugged and plug VGA back in with no fix...

Did you try a complete power fail (cold re-start) on the game?
Unplug from the wall, turn on the game, turn off the game, re-plug into the wall, turn on the game?
Looks like the video is not auto centering the image under the OS control, could be a corrupt driver.
Maybe save all your settings and re-install a complete 6.06 full game install, then see if it fixes it.

#1790 2 years ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

Do those here who own WOZ still have the black rubber rings or have you converted to white or other colors? I replaced the originals when it was time with black except for green ones on the slings. I tend to stay with whatever the manufacturers tested the games in when in development, but then again not always.

I switched to urethane superbands but took them off (they seemed to feel deader than fresh latex) and now
Im using red Titan bands in the flippers a green one on the much PF and an orange one on the castle pf.

They remind me of what fresh rubber used to feel like (somewhat)....today's rubber feels a little dead.

I just finished a complete shop job on my WOZ, removed both mini pf's, the ramps, trees etc. replaced all rubber with new.
I used some new STC rubber and some of my older STC rubber from my stash...my older stash of rubber bounces better than the new rubber I just got. Also dont bother getting a rubber kit for the WOZ from marco, its missing half of the rubber (what a rip off).

Better off using the rubber list in the manual and ordering it from another source (maybe terry at pinball life).

Waxed 2 times with P21S (just to make sure I didnt miss any areas...).
I used all black rubber except on the flippers.

The game plays absolutely like brand new!
However on the next shop job Im going to switch to white rubber. The game will play better, I should have used white the last time on this game.

#1793 2 years ago
Quoted from BladeFury:

Yep have tried both of those now....no change...boooo

Contact Lloyd and or get a repair ticket asap from jjp support.
check all connectors etc...

#1807 2 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I'm getting balls stuck on the upper shooter lane mylar when I soft plunge. It happened to me 3 times during a game the other night and it really breaks the flow of the game. Any advice other than raise the angle of the play field? The only thing I can think of is to cut away some of the mylar that's at the exit of the OZ lanes so gravity can easily take the ball back into the right orbit.

Chck that the mylar isnt lifting or rolling up if its still totally stuck down undamaged in any way,
Your PF angle is too low, get a cell phone level app and make sure the pitch is at 6.5 to 7 degrees.
I have mine at just over 6.5 and I cant even set a ball by hand on the edge of the mylar and get it to stay.
On a couple other pins that had this problem I buffed the mylar thinner with novus 3 then 2 then 1 with a mini power buffer from treasue cove.

At less than 5 degrees the mylar on the castle PF under the vuk will stick the ball also.

#1809 2 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

The mylar is in good shape and not peeling or rolling. My play field is at 6.9 and i'd rather not make it any steeper. Maybe I'll try buffing the mylar thinner tonight. I'm installing the munchkin land cliffy tonight so that'll be the perfect opportunity to try and fix this mylar issue.

One other thing to try is to carefully rub/roll the edge down with a rubber or wooden wall paper seam roller if you have the room for the tool.
Also sometimes just waxing the area helps. I use P21S pure canauba but any pure canauba will do. Just dont use liquid wax or weird blended stuff.

Either way the edge will wear down in time as that area gets constant use, I wouldnt worry about it to much.

#1821 2 years ago

ECLEWOZ comes with external leg brackets as well as the internal ones.
The legs ride about 1/16" of the surface of the cabinet.
No other protection is needed unless its for cosmetic reasons.

2 weeks later
#1857 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Greetings all,
I noticed lately that fom time to time my crystal ball will just display snow/static. At first I thought loose commection but everything is solid... Watching a little closer it seems to occur only when certain modes are active and will during the same game return to normal. I have not yet watched closely enough to determine which specific mode causing it.
Has anyone else experienced this? I'm thinking maybe a corruption in the SD card data? Is there an image of it available anywhere?
.... aaaannd.. after systematically triggering all of the animations I can't reproduce it... So for now I guess it's just random during gameplay. Oh well doesn't seem like any sort of major issue, I'm guessing maybe vibrations during gameplay may cause it. At least it goes away without having to do anything.

Sometimes the static is from a loose cable on the crystal ball side or even a loose/dirty SD card in the ball.

#1893 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I've had an issue that reoccurs every once in a while. When the ball exits the munchkinland playfield, instead of landing right on the magnet, sometimes it hops a bit to the left and out of reach of the flipper. It has happened to me a couple of times when I was about to melt the witch, and that was really frustrating. It also happened to me a couple of times when I completed There's No Place Like Home. It seems to happen more when the ball is rolling slowly down the playfield, having just been diverted from the ramp, rather than on completing a fast loop and then exiting.
Anyone else experience this, and is there an adjustment to be made to correct it?

The angle of the mini PF needs adjustment. Check the mounting screws for tightness or obstrutions, especially if you have removed it to install cliffy protector.
You can also add a washer to the rainbow side stand-offs to angle it better towards the hole.

Also check your left to right (horizontal?) main playfield level.

#1894 2 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I'm having a random lighting issue. 2 times in the past week, when I power on the game ALL of the insert lights do not work. A power cycle fixed the problem both times but is this something I should be concerned with?
On another note.....THIS FINALLY HAPPENED!

Congrats on killing the witch!
You might check your power at the outlet for low current/power if the game is starting anemically.
Or go thru and check all the connections on the PC and GI/LED strings.

#1914 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

The problem with diagnosing this issue is that it only happens once every 1-2 months. It really isn't that big a deal. The next time it happens, I'm just going to play a game with all of the lights not working. It will probably be my best game yet.

Since few people have dedicated power, we are all subject to the highs and lows of "street power". Your power can vary 20 volts and can lose 10 amps every few hours depending on the usage on your street or section of the grid.

This is why the problem comes and goes.
Try a dedicated outlet with nothing but pins on it, and it should be a 20 amp breaker if you have a few pins on it (4 or 6), with 20 amp wire.

#1930 2 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

(I'm thinking the spin adjustment in test mode does not accurately reflect the final house position during a game.)

You are correct.
If the house spin is way off the plastic post that triggers the door wont line up.
It takes quite a few tests and in game tests to get it to work correctly.
With patience and a little time you will get it to work correctly.
Mine runs well enough and the door drops all the way 90% of the time and drops 3/4 the other 10%. I call it good enough.
It took about 10 separate adjustment sessions to get it to work right as I had to learn as I went along.

#1952 2 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Yes but the metal rail ball guide is in the way. I don't see how the post can move inward.

Quoted from Phbooms:

It will push on the metal rail, theres a extra hole for the rail

If you dont want it to look like crap you have to remove the ball guide and notch out the metal a bit with a dremel or hack saw to allow for the rubber from the post to pass through it.
A lot of us have notched the ball guide. including me.
This way the guide can go back into place and the plastic covers it nicely.

#1953 2 years ago
Quoted from ninjabones:

How do you adjust the left outlane? Looks like the ball guide will interfere with the post in that inward position?

See above...^^^^^^^^^

#1960 2 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

If you loosen all the screws in the plastic piece and slip the plastic a little toward the gap, it isn't that noticeable. I would not carve out a notch in the metal. Just move the metal over to the next pre-drilled hole. First photo of mine is looking at it from the side where you would notice the gap the most. The other two photos are from the players perspective - with and without a light under the plastic beaming away.

Quoted from merccat:

^^^^^^^ This is what I did. No cutting or drilling needed, just using the existing pre-drilled hole.
My only concern is whether or not the hole will still be completely concealed when returning to the normal position since the hole will have widened it slightly from the screw. I think if it ends up a tad bit visible I would be ok with that.
I actually kind of doubt I will ever put it back though. It was sooo brutal before and it still can drain easily enough with a bad shot when brought in.

I had it that way for over a year. The light shining wasnt a problem, there wasnt any problem at all, it just looked unfinished.
But after I did a thorough cleaning one day, I decided to notch the metal. It only took 5 mins and Im much happier with the result.

#1973 2 years ago
Quoted from oohlou:

I have a late model WOZ (Dec 2015) which came with mylar between the Haunted Forest pop bumpers and in front of the State balloon. Do owners add additional mylar or did WOZ not originally come with this? I'm a bit concerned about the forest area. The Mylar covers the space between the pops but doesn't cover the area to the right of the top bumper (e.g. it stops around the T in haunted)

Early games were missing the mylar in the haunted forest and the TNPTH state fair balloon area. Fortunately JJP offers for free a sheet of pre-cut mylars for all the missing areas for those games that didnt have it.

#1991 2 years ago

Congrats on the new game!
Its going to be EPIC!

#2053 2 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

So, I just tried to plug in some headphone to the coin door to try it out, and I couldn't get any audio out of the head set. I did hear clicks when pressing the increase and decrease audio buttons.
What do I need to do to enable this feature?

There is a switch in the little circuit board on the coin door near the top upper left.
You can barely see it from the edge, use a flashlight.

#2060 2 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Well my 3 YO seems to enjoy it lol. Maybe I'm just hard of hearing now

make sure the headphone is plugged in very firmly. especially the last 1/16"

#2068 2 years ago
Quoted from wtatumjr:

With the Pinnovators WOZ kit you can adjust the master volume w/o opening the door. This is great
for headphone users that like it loud. You cut off the external speakers the normal way then increase the
master volume to your liking w/o the normal find the key, open the door, stuff.
It fits TH too.

In my opinion, the pinnovators external volume control is a must have!
I added it to my WOZ and TH.
Super easy to install and has a factory look to it.
JJP should have it as an option when ordering the game, thats how good it is.

#2069 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Hey all,
Tech question here. My character rollover buttons are up so high that they routinely divert any ball rolling anything other than really fast. I'd like to lower them a bit. It's like having random magnets throughout the playfield.
I noticed that they are only held up by the spring power of the moving part of the leaf spring (forgive me that my tech terms probably aren't accurate). So I though I could lower the button without reducing the sensitivity of the rollover by bending the contact that supports the button toward the other contact. I tested the concept temporarily by holding it down. Seems to work fine.
Can anyone see a major problem flexing this down a little permanently?
Also, thoughts on how to increase sensitivity of the upper playfield standup targets. I can barely activate them with my fingers, but the contacts seem really hard to reach.

get a couple of these leaf adjustment tools:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1518

still you have to fiddle with the switches to get them just right.
but with a tool its way easier.

the rollovers will break in over time and soften down.
raise the PF angle a little and push up the flipper power a little until you no longer get as many low inertia shots.

#2085 2 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Well, I got my headphones working, but they only work when the main game sound is on. Lame!

if you enabled the inside switch, then push the game speaker mute button.
its the lowest button in the headset volume control area on the outside of the coin door.

#2133 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I'm having more and more trouble with inconsistent plunges -- meaning, plunges that won't make it all the way around to the pops. I used to have this problem, and then it largely went away. Now it is back. I've looked carefully, and a good chunk of time that it is happening is because the ball hits the edge of the block shown in this photo.

Has anyone had this problem, and is there a fix? I was wondering if I put a piece of felt tape at the end of the shooter lane on the left block if that might divert the ball a bit to the right to avoid the other block. But, I figured I would ask first. Much thanks for any advice!

Does the plunger hit the ball squarely in the center of the ball?

#2154 2 years ago
Quoted from zutton1:

In the club now. Love the game! I just wanted to ask about the dimpling of the playfield. I only have about 40 plays on the machine and can see a lot of dimpling. I understand this happens but just wanted to get some feedback from other owners as to what their playfields look like...thanks

Dimples are absolutely normal.
Soon enough after a few thousand plays the whole surface will dimple over and appear flat again with a very slight orange peel effect.

So, the more you play it the sooner the dimples will go away.
Keep waxing the PF every 500 plays or so with pure Canauba, and the surface will be smooth for years.

#2160 2 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Anybody regret installing/buying pinballbulbs.coms lighting kit now that its been available for 2 years or so? I always have to turn on games next to WOZ to play in the dark.

I installed it and really like it.
My wife loves the slightly purple LEDs, they do indeed allow you to see more contrast in the PF. You can see so much more detail.
I moved the spots off the slings to what I thought were better locations for me.
I also replaced the silver shrouded spots for black ones (the same ones that are used in the game), marco has them.
It makes the game easier to spot the ball and our scores went up.
I taped over the LEDs under the backbox to eliminate the glare on the ramp, Worked perfectly.

#2163 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Well I used the Clinometer app to level it so it shoud be close but its been a few weeks since last checked. The only cliffy in frame is the munchin edge, everything else in frame is stock, although out of frame I do have the cliffy trough protector installed, but thats well clear of the ball at launch.
You are right that the ball tends to be wild before the ramp, here is a vid slightly further back... when I get home I'd be interested to shoot even further back to see if I can spot the point it goes wild.
» YouTube video

My shooter rod was getting slightly bent from raising and lowering the PF. This made for poor shots.
Also the shooter rod tip if worn or crooked also makes for a weak plunge.
I changed the rod tip to a different one with a shorter bump at the end and this seems to have corrected this behavior as well as bending the rod back to being straight.

The PF can shift a little to the left or right, making the shooter off center.
On a couple of other games (TAF) I had to install a sheetmetal screw in the support bracket slot to keep it where I wanted it.
And as always the shooter rod must hit exactly in the center of the ball for it to launch correctly.

#2168 2 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

I did see it but im looking to light the entire table better. Worried about the purple in the kit, guess ill order one see how it looks and if i dont like it ill change some colors out.

The kit comes with some white LEDs, we looked at it with the white, but settled on the purple it looked way better.

#2269 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Yes, the slippers should be on the game from the factory. I am referring to the bats being black. The slippers are glued to the top of the bats.

On my early ECLEWOZ The slippers were applied with a very agressive double sided tape. The tape failed after about 300 plays and they fell off one by one.
Without even removing the tape I was told by Lloyd to re-glue the slippers on with gel type CA glue.
They are rock solid after 2800 plays.

#2277 2 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

So, I have another problem that cropped up today.
During a game, the lower right flipper would quickly articulate three times really fast, then nothing. If I pressed it again, the same thing happened. The upper right and castle flipper behaved normally while the lower flipper did this. Restart did not help.
Any ideas?

Maybe "machine-gunning"? EOS switch broken, or a wire is cracked/loose on it (intermittent failure), or needs adjustment.

#2297 2 years ago

I have had my WOZ for over 2 years and play it often. Mostly after my TH kicks my a$$ and I need to cool down....(with an adult beverage also...)

#2298 2 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Just looked into this again this morning. It was definitely 'machine-gunning' when holding the button. Pretty odd behavior. Running tests, the flipper hold function was not working. Looking under the table, there was a spade connector loose. That fixed it!
It was simple, and I'm glad it didn't involve ordering parts. Should've just looked under the pf in the first place.
Thanks for your help.

Your welcome!
If the spade connector is sorta loose, just squeeze it very slightly with pliers to "tighten it" a little.
Flippers are very active and spade connectors will loosen up over time.
Even soldered on connections vibrate off or the wires break over time...welcome to pinball!

#2325 2 years ago
Quoted from 1quartershort:

Hi All
Unboxed a WOZRR yesterday. Fixed a few problems: lockbar and castle spot light but still having problems with the throne room/wizard lighting. When I first set up the game, the wizard tombstone was lighting but erratically. I reset the connectors and now the three lights just glow dimly & steady but do not light the tombstone.
Any ideas? Thanks.

Post a picture of it maybe in the dark.
See if it matches other games.

1 week later
#2422 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

OK - but don't have a problem besides the ball hitting the toto toy sometimes. Seems like if the bracket was higher, the toy would be higher and therefore not even come close to the ball shootng out

Put a couple washers under the bracket. Raising the character will solve this problem.
There are a lot of factors involved when launching the ball. Sometimes its completely airborne, other times it hits the built in randomiser.

Other times its so erratic it wont go all the way up.

Its pinball.....

#2479 2 years ago

The decals to cover those areas are available, just call and ask for a set.
They are a pretty good match also.

The repair kit comes with the decals and mylars to cover them.

1 week later
#2505 2 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

WoZ is my first pin purchase, so is there a video on how to change WoZ rubbers/rings? I have about 40-50 new colors to put on, and I want to include before/after pics, because you all were very helpful! Maybe I can also help someone else out who wants to add some color to their game too.

Some of the rubber is very easy to replace.
Others require removing assembles. Be patient and take your time.

Use new tools: Klein long magnetic nut drivers and screw drivers are worth every penny.
Get a small magnetic bowl to put small parts in and stick it to the lock-down bar receiver.
Get a small flexible magnetic retrieval tool to save hours of work getting dropped screws or washers.
Place a terrycloth shop rag or towel on the playfield area you are working on in case of a dropped tool or small part.
Be methodical. Work in sections. There is no quick way to do this.
Clean and wax uncovered areas when you get to them, your playfield will thank you later.

Take pictures and note the size of the rubber you removed, its molded into each ring. Use the exact replacement size when replacing.
If in doubt refer to the manual.

1 week later
#2535 2 years ago
Quoted from elf70:

Yeah, this was my question to Frank at JJP when he just wanted to replace the entire target assembly - "isn't it possible this will just happen again in the future?". His reply was that they have so many machines out there and they just don't get this kind of report.. my take on it was that he didnt think this was a "normal" thing to happen and unlikely that it would happen again. (my interpretation anyway). I do still feel slightly concerned obviously, because it certainly did happen, even the first time I recall that smoldering coil smell coming from the cab after the game was over - but *they* didn't seem so concerned (from lack of reports perhaps?)

Without a thorough examination of your broken part, its impossible to say what went wrong.
From a warranty point of view, if replacing the assembly solved the problem, then everything worked out and all is good in the world.
I imagine that JJP has listed this occurrence and will have more info on this down the road if it ever comes up again.
JJP isnt too concerned as they have agreed to fix anything that goes wrong during the warranty period.
With that in mind, enjoy your game and let JJP fret over it, thats what warranties are for.

#2538 2 years ago
Quoted from elf70:

I do agree. The confusing part to me was really as jasonbar has pointed out here how he was seemingly blowing fuses because the drop coil was not being able to drop the target, while mine did not seem to have any issues when i simply moved the microswitch so that it would be physically impossible to register a dropped target.
This target/coil issue aside, I have noticed with my WoZ and Hobbit what I would consider to be a concerning amount of simple QC issues however (some make me wonder how they could happen in the first place, like one of the speaker assemblies being mounted backwards on Hobbit?), even the replacement Winkie target assembly had an upside down Winkie sticker on it so I kept my original target. I do hope they get things like this sorted out. I think my WoZ is mostly doing well. I think I/We have taken care of everything except the badly flickering topper and Oz head (new power board on its way to try), and badly positioned lockdown bar assembly that has chipped away at the green rail powder coating, starting before I even got it (seems to be my problem to deal with, and they say they don't offer any touch up paint or anything either, ugh).
Brilliant game though, aside from the frustrations.

Apply a little self adhesive felt to the lock-down bar where it rubs the powdercoat.
Powdercoated side-rails are relatively new to pinball and all of them need a little padding there.
I see wear there periodically.

#2567 2 years ago
Quoted from elf70:

Thanks for the suggestion. I think I will redo the little bit I already did. I started doing this as a "temporary" measure in a couple spots when I noticed what was happening, but perhaps I should cover the whole area where any powedercoat contact is possible. Still working on getting the lockdown bar to not "wiggle" and yet be able to lock in place. It seems that if I get it solid so it won't wiggle, it doesn't latch properly and/or starts to bend the latch bar underneath. If I loosen it a bit so that it does latch properly, then it wiggles. Frustrating. Also still working on getting the alignment right - lockdown bar is still too far to the right (need to shift mechanism to left) and toward the player (no idea how to handle that one?).
I wonder too if I could use some more of that foam material they place on the underside of the lockdown bar. Does anyone know where to get that? Part of mine did not seem applied quite right, and I also wonder if a little better coverage might help this issue as well.

The lock-down bar insulation is just regular foam weatherstrip that you get at Lowes or Home Depot.

If the lock-down bar is still too loose after adjusting the brass screws, you might have to raise or lower the inside lock-down bar receiver.

Its not too bad, and has 3 or 4 wood screws holding it on from the inside. Loosening the screws will allow for a small adjustment, filling the screw holes with dowels, skewers or toothpicks and relocating the bar 1/8" or so higher is more work but can give perfect results.

Personally I raised my lock-down bar receiver 1/8" so that when the lock-down bar is clamped down it rests 1/16" above the siderails and doesnt touch them at all. I filled the 1/16" gap above the siderails with self stick felt applied to the underside of the lock-down bar.

An assortment of self stick felt is available at Wal-Mart, I chose the black 1/16" thick.

#2572 2 years ago
Quoted from elf70:

Now thats an interesting idea. I've been so preoccupied about clamping it down hard so that it doesn't wiggle (left/right, forwards/backwards) when leaning on it. If mine isn't clamped down really hard against the cabinet/glass/rails, it actually seems to wiggle around really easily. How would I adjust that then?

Mine clamps down tightly, I have to press down on the center of the lock-down bar to get the release handle to move.
It tightly fits against the siderails with self-stick felt protecting them.
This was achieved from several adjustments to the brass screws and a final adjustment of the lock-down receiver.
It doesnt budge during game play.

My TH however is still loose a little bit, I havent put the time into it yet. But ultimately it will be as snug as my WOZ.

#2576 2 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

I've seen this said a few times -- is the ball getting air born and dinging the upper playfield? Just curious "why" -- haven't seen anything there yet.

Of all the cliffy protectors the munchkin edge protector is the best.
I bought the complete set but have only installed this edge protector.
After 2500 plays it really shows huge amounts of chipping and wear without the protector. I have seen 1" chips in the surface near the edge without the steel edge.

Whats needed now is a good plastic protector for over the winkie drop area.
I have had to replace mine due to cracking from ball strikes.

#2590 2 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

My Winkie target is down for the count and my game is only 5 weeks old. The target has not popped up for a week, so it's stuck in the down position. There aren't any other errors with the game that are relevant to this issue.
I'm brand new to pin ownership and feel over whelmed since just opening the play field is intimidating. Is there a kind soul out there who can give me specific instructions on what to do?
I've filed a support ticket with JJ, and already got an auto email reply saying they got my support request.

Check that the wires are still plugged onto the coil that fires the drop target.

Check that the attachment screws that hold the switch on, are still there and snug but not super tight. Overtightening the screws will cause the internal mechanism of the little switch to bind.

Manually actuate the drop target and listen for the click of the switch, up and down. Or manually actuate the switch and listen for its click sound to get a feel for it.

A properly adjusted switch will click just before the metal plunger hits the stop and doesnt bend the arm of the switch to much.
Adjust the stop as neccessary.

If the screws have fallen out they are 2/56 screws by about 5/8" I think.

If the screws are missing, check inside the cabinet with a magnet and you will find them.
Also look for anything else that might be loose under the playfield and tighten as neccessary.

Any loose wood screws you find should be backed out and re-inserted with titebond glue on the threads.
Any loose machine screws should be glued in with blue loctite, NOT RED.

The switch should have 2 screws in it. It will work with only one but it will rotate once in awhile and lose contact with the plastic actuator on the drop target itself.
The whole switch assembly is made so that you can move the switch a little to get it to work just right.

#2592 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I lost one of those little switch screws. Had to order one for 10 cents over the internet and pay $6 in shipping.

get screws here:

https://www.fmwfasteners.com/products/2-56-x-5-8-phillips-pan-machine-screw-18-8-ss?gclid=CICQyq-hgdACFQuraQodMqoE5g

Check the length in the manual and maybe get a couple sizes for ramp witches and whatever....
Also a good source for regular #8 x 1/2" or 5/8" slotted hex sheet metal screws and what ever you might need in stainless steel.

I dont think they have the unslotted screws for the factory look.

#2596 2 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

Here's the fan on my WOZ. It's a Jamicon JF0825S1M, I can't seem to post a direct link to the Jamicon product page, but essentially it's an 80mm (25mm depth), 32CFM, 2500RPM, ~28dBA. 12v, 1.8 watts.
Note: on my WoZ, I have only 2 fans: CPU and this case fan. They must've switched power supplies at some point.
I'm a little surprised because stats wise, I subjectively thought the fan was significantly louder than 28dB, and the rated airflow of 32CFM is decent but not crazy. (In other words, easy to find a replacement.)
I think swapping it with a Noctua or Maglev fan would give very close or equal performance and be much quieter. Looking over the cabinet, there are two rear vent holes that are fairly large -- I think putting some 60mm or possibly 80mm (need to measure) near silent fans there would be good, too, or possibly at the top of the backbox, to help draw air through. Another option is putting fans (again, slow, near silent ones) at the front of the PC cab (inside the case itself, plenty of room) to help pull air into the PC case. Lots of options.
Not sure if I'll do this yet, next step for me is review the 12v lines to see what I can tap into.

Some quiet 80mm fans I use once in awhile:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W04PJ9641&cm_re=quiet_80mm_fan-_-35-186-074-_-Product

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA85V3803646&cm_re=quiet_80mm_fan-_-9SIA85V3803646-_-Product

#2609 2 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

I wish I knew how to do this

Please reach out to the 30 or more Pinsiders within the Pensacola area if you are still there.
Otherwise check the community map and there will always be someone near by who would love to assist a fellow hobbyist.

We all remember our first time working on a game, it really helps to have someone to help initially.
Dont worry, dont be shy.

#2612 2 years ago
Quoted from n2vsw:

We just received our NIB WOZ RR on wednesday. We had to wait until today to get it from the garage into the house and set up due to the weight of this thing. We had to wait for a few friends to come over and lend a hand. We unbox the new pin and get everything set up. We turn it on and wait for the machine to boot and it comes to life... sort of. The playfield lights are completely out. The monitor works and as far as we can tell the rest of the game works but there is no lighting. A quick call to the distributor who suggests looking for a loose connector somewhere. We didn't find anything loose on the playfield or the back of the metal box that houses the cpu. I opened the lid on the metal box and noticed a grey cable was not plugged into the i/o board. Its the same round grey cable that daisy chains to the led boards. This should be an easy fix, plug it back in right? The grey cable has a white plug on the end. This plug only fits one way in it's socket. The problem is the plug is currently attached to the socket but the socket is not on the i/o board. I don't know if it was accidentally pulled off the i/o board or if it's attached that way at the factory and was missed. The think I know where it goes but don't know what in orientation to install it. It can be installed with the plug release to the left or 180 degrees out. Any help or a picture would be appreciated.

A picture of the loose cable would be very helpful.

1 week later
#2652 2 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

ADVISE NEEDED: Ok... here is the deal. I can get a used RRWOZ in great shape. Built December, 2015. But to do so, i have to trade these to items. NO CASH!! He wants my TZ (very nice condition) and my 20 anniversary galaga pacman. What should i do? Bad deal for me or great deal for me?

Bad deal for you.
Its much easier to find a lower cost WOZ that it is to find a TZ in really good shape.

#2665 2 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Man this is not easy. I wanted to do just TZ but he wants both. Not sure what to do. EATPM has to stay. TZ would be my only trade.

I have had 2 TZ , and after awhile sold them off for a very good profit because I didnt play the TZ any more.
Right now Im looking for a TZ that I can restore but they are difficult to get now. I love to restore games as much as playing them.
I miss my TZ for some reason even though I dont play it very often.

#2675 2 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Thanks guys. I like TZ but I love WOZ. Big difference in game play. I'm off work Fri, Sat, Sun and Mon.

Post some pics when you get it! WOZ is amazing.

#2690 2 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I have a question about the crystal ball. Mine seems to show a black screen most of the time I'm playing. It just seems erratic to me and I'm wondering if it's functioning correctly. Sometimes the skill shot arrow animation will freeze after a few seconds, sometimes the Jersey Jack logo animation is shown...sometimes not, sometimes it just shows a black screen with 2 faint green squares. I just feel that with a game this pretty and so well thought out that the crystals ball would be more active than it is. Check out this link to a video of my crystal ball and please let me know if it is functioning correctly.
Thanks!
» YouTube video

It appears to be working properly.
The crystal ball is supposed to give you hints as to what you might do to start a mode ot to continue progress towards a mode.
It does not run continuously.

#2718 2 years ago
Quoted from mountaingamer:

Hi fellas - I was gonna flip through here for a answer but maybe it's better to ask what owners think. I owned a wozle a few years ago - it was a 5v system. We sold it, and now I've got sellers remorse. I'm debating between getting a new 75th straight from jack, or a used 75th anniv. The only thing that concerns me is the light boards. My question is: are the led boards truly fixed? I understand that anything can happen and a board or led will eventually fail, but at least buying a new game takes some of the worry out of it. I'm considering a Ruby Red built in late 2015 - anyone know if it's the same exact boards & electronics as one rolling off the line today? i just remember replacing a few boards with upgraded 7v boards with daughter boards on them & a few of them still blew. Help me decide guys - WOZ ruined it for me and nothing I play compares to it or fills the void. Thanks!

The current builds are pretty bulletproof, for a pinball machine.

#2728 2 years ago
Quoted from sc204:

I have an ECLE that had the 7.5 V boards. After replacing a bunch of boards over a period of over 1 year with the buffered boards (which JJP did for free), I finally gave up and paid for an entire set to replace. (still had to return the old ones) Not happy that I had to pay for them but I have not had a light board lock up since.
The game was almost not playable in the winter months when the heat was on, even despte using the Wizards Mist and Shine which did help a little.

JJP has never asked me to send them anything that I paid for.
If you bought a second set of replacement boards with cash, you would never have needed to send them anything at all.
Warranty is another matter altogether.

That would be like saying, send me another complete game and ill pay cash for it so that I would have a spare game. And they would require you to send them the first one. Now you have paid twice for a single game.
They wouldnt do that.

#2741 2 years ago
Quoted from sc204:

Well compared to the prices for boards mentioned above I didn't pay nearly what that would add up to so i guess what I paid was the price with returning my original boards to them for updating.

That sounds about right.

1 week later
#2800 2 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

My WoZRR comes tomorrow and I was wondering if there are any default settings tweaks people recommend, or if it's all down to personal preference? I think I remember a streamer recommending the strength on the main flippers up 1 or 2, the munchkin flipper up 1, and the castle flipper down 1... but I can't recall for sure.
Anyway, appreciate any inputs and fully understand if the only answer is "you'll have to dial it in yourself".

Always play if first, then adjust. There are differences and adjustments that vary a bit on the assembly line.

1 week later
#2865 2 years ago
Quoted from Mechanized:

WOZ owners, does anybody else have their ball not make it up the munchkin ramp when shooting a lined up shot from right flipper?
I don't want to increase power, because I have "bounces" reduced to a minimum.
Just curious...
I love the game, however sometimes I feel Ahhhhhhhhh!!!!! When the ball falls short of power to make it up the ramp. "That could've started a multi ball, you know"

I have the right flipper set +1 from the left flipper.
No bounces, no chatters.
Playfield pitch is at 6.7

I increased the pitch a tiny bit from factory, if the pitch is too high the balls can fly off the cross-over wireform.
Mostly the pitch increase was to compensate for dirtiness of the PF between waxings.

If you wax the ramp, balls rarely miss.
I use the recommended mist n shine. Its similar to novus 1, but more wax content.

I changed out all the rubber at 2500 plays with a factory black kit (STC rubber).
Im using red silicone flipper rubbers from Titan. I used to use urethane flipper rubber from pinball life but they hit too hard.
Black rubber on the flippers or the red silicone play the best for me and my crowd.

At 3200 plays the game looks like new with wax every 500 plays. The only wear is on the cliffy on the munchkin PF, and the plastic above the winkie guard. It gets beat up pretty bad, Im going to replace any cracked plastics at 5000 plays.

1 week later
#2896 2 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

If I can get the decal replaced, that'd be great. I know I listed every weird thing I've had but I'm actually not concerned about the other issues. I've been able to find existing fixes for everything listed and the spring I just replaced for under a dollar.
I guess I'm a teensy bit salty that I'm having issues at all, but like you said everything mechanical has them. Especially mechanical things that are made to have steel orbs slammed into them.

I have complete faith that JJP will take care of you.

You must know that the home market is new to the pinball industry.

Im actually shocked that a commercial equipment vendor would even attempt direct sales to homes.
It is quite an undertaking and JJP has done wonders comparatively. They deserve much acclaim.

Remember that buying from a distributor is often the best, as commercial equipment always has to be setup and tweaked on site due to many factors specific to the location. Power supply problems from the wall current comes to mind, plus any known tweaks and adjustments or small parts failures. This is common.

This equipment was meant to be abused on location and most operators would not be concerned about cabinet artwork as it wouldnt be seen in a line-up and would probably have initials carved in it the first week.

So hang in there, it will all work out with a little patience.

#2905 2 years ago
Quoted from agodfrey:

CRAZY idea. Could be life altering but does anyone know the type of RGBs on the JJP light boards? Are they just WS2811 or WS2812 SMD? Obviously they are addressable. So most likely some flavor of WS2811 or WS2812. But I had the red on my N go out and I am faced with buying a whole new board, buying a new Munchkin PF, or just living with it. If it is just a bad SMD it would seem logical to me I can just put a new SMD in. I shall investigate further. Open to any knowledge you all have. Could turn a $150 replacement into a $5 one. OR ruin the whole thing.....

Some people are having rainbow light card individual led failures.
I would suggest getting a new one and possibly sending your old one in for credit or slight discount perhaps.

#2918 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Thanks. I guess I don't know enough about how LEDs work to know what this means. Does this mean that JJP may not be able to make replacement boards in the future, or does it just mean that people won't be able to repair their own boards?
I don't have the skills to work on soldering chips on and off boards so I think I will always be dependent upon getting replacement parts from JJP. I do worry about the costs. I'm still under warranty, but when that runs out, they do charge a lot for the boards. If they lasted for years, that might not be a big deal, but if you have one or two fail a year, that is a much bigger expense than being able to simply replace a bulb.

The led driver chip, A6281 3-Channel Constant Current LED Driver with Programmable PWM Control,
has been discontinued from the manufacturer, Allegro. Its unknown yet whether or not a suitable replacement can be fitted.
All is not lost though as there are thousands of Chinese made $2 LED driver boards available, to steal the chip from if necessary for awhile.

Herg provided a link to some here

http://macetech.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1

#2921 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Anybody know the part number for the LED chip itself.

The part number is

a6281

Its a great all in 1 package, Im surprised they discontinued it, unless people just needed more channels.

http://hackaday.com/2009/06/29/parts-shiftbrite-rgb-led-module-a6281/

#2926 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I'm still not following. Does this affect JJP or just those who want to fix the boards themselves?

This only affects repairing of old/used boards.

There are a lot of ways to drive an LED.

If JJP cant get the older parts they will redesign or redevelop a new replacement board around a different driver chip if necessary.

This will not affect the end user, other than possibly higher costs to pay for different parts or development.

Companies continuously upgrade or alter circuit boards based upon durability concerns or parts availability, but as long as any new part works and fits correctly we will be fine.

My concerns as other have stated is the ability to inexpensively field repair a board, on location, becomes difficult if everything is modularized, proprietary or surface mounted. It becomes a lot more complicated than cutting off a transistor or diode or jumping a fuse.

This is especially worrisome if durability is in question. Does the repair tech have to carry thousands of dollars worth of replacement modules for all of the different technologies that are emerging? And then later repair said modules on a more sophisticated bench?

Maybe its just the cost of progress...

#2928 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Thanks guys. I get it now. I wish I was skilled enough to do board repair. Its going to have to be something I teach myself in retirement, which is quite a ways off. In the meantime, I do wish there was a cheaper alternative once warranties run out especially if board failure is going to be a not infrequent occurrence.

Its not rocket science to do board repairs. It just takes care and a feel for the temperatures.
Start by taking an old broken pc board that you will never use.
Carefully and professionally remove all of the components. Try and not destroy the board as they are fragile and susceptible to heat damage

Replace the parts you removed as professionally as possible.

Do this a few times and anyone can become a bench tech. It just takes a small time investment and some rudimentary tools.

A lot of us started this way, by experimentation with some guidance from someone with experience.

As with all things you absolutely get better with practice and a little patience.

#2930 2 years ago
Quoted from fattdirk:

Anyone connected a Stern shaker to their Woz?

I think this could be done, but I think you can just get all of the required parts from JJP if needed.

#2953 2 years ago
Quoted from Frli002:

Yes, can not use a Shaker from jjp on my woz, fuses blowing.

why is this?

#2955 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Probably different motor ratings. Is there a tag on the motor to compare?

I imagine the correct motor is available for the WOZ from JJP.

#2961 2 years ago
Quoted from Farmboss:

My monkey will not drop the ball. It picks it up and then takes it to the top but then nothing. It goes into ball search and finally drops it. I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue.

sounds like a switch adjustment may be needed, the game might not know that the ball has reached its destination.
Also maybe see how it works in the device tests menu.

#2965 2 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

My WoZ was delivered today and it's mostly in perfect condition. One glaring issue though is with the monkey. When he goes down to pickup a ball the mech slides along two grooves in the wood and makes a loud and horrible screeching noise. If I put a little weight on the monkey bracket the noise doesn't happen. I'm guessing I'll either have to adjust the monkey somehow or maybe the wood needs to be sanded a little bit to make more space. Any thoughts?

check the threaded rod for bends, it might also need adjustment.
Check the flexible joint from the motor for issues, everything should be relatively inline.
It should not be binding in any way.
In some cases the rod (worm gear) has needed some silicone grease.
It should operate soothly and relatively quietly.
Its possible that it needs to be re-mounted and adjusted.

If you do adjust the mech keep track of the ball pick-up sensor as it will invariably also need adjustment if you move the worn gear,rod assembly.

1 week later
#2983 2 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Received my NIB RR a few weeks ago, Had out of box issues that have mostly been repaired. Still have monkey issues after being fixed. Monkey works about 80 % of the time. After being adjusted still doesn't pick up every time.
Question I have is now every time I push the left flipper button the lower playfield lights strobe a white color. I know this is not normal. I am calling JJP tomorrow. Just curious is this a dependable game? Or every week or two I am going to have an issue ?
I total understand things break and nothing is perfect it just seems s little excessive all the issues I have had. The game was produced nov of this year. I did already voice my concerns to JJP. I was told that the latest run of WOZ'S have had more issues than other runs. I am confident that everything with get fixed eventually, Just a little frustrated.

All of these frustrating issues are what a lot us call, part of the fun!
Getting the game perfectly dialed-in and learning a specific game can be very rewarding if you are patient and of the peculiar "pinball mind-set".

I think most of us have had completely baffling mysteries within a pinball machine, but as you have noted it will all work out in time.

I am so completely grateful for the support from Lloyd and all of the extremely patient technicians at JJP, even well after the warranty is over. They have become the best in the business (IMHO).

Meanwhile try to enjoy the bumpy ride

1 week later
#2993 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Indeed it is... I will say though that WOZ has really improved my game.... speaking of which time to get a game in.

Along that note, playing my TH has improved my WOZ game substantially.
My shots are more accutate and my timing during multiballs has improved.

#2998 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Turn down the coil strength so the rubber will last longer. Also, if you're careful, you can replace the rubber without removing munchkinland.

Its absolutely doable and only takes about 10 mins.

1 week later
#3014 2 years ago
Quoted from audihere:

Could you do an add-on to this mod that has a switch in its wiring harness that mounts physically piggyback onto the switch on the witch mech with a lever bent 90 deg so it is activated/deactivated by the lever on the existing switch? Then the LED can be turned off when your clear drop target is in the down position. I would prefer this because the LED is so bright, even when the drop target is down, it's super bright. If the LED was only on in the up position, it would be more obvious when to shoot for it. Thanks!

I like the way the drop area is lit with the target in the down position as you still have to hit the tunnel when the target is down.
So in my opinion, no adjustment is neccessary. Again jmho...

#3026 2 years ago

Maybe carefully apply some thin CA glue to the chipped edges to keep it from chipping more and cover any bare wood areas with clear fingernail polish?

#3032 2 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

Here's some photos of my playfield crack/chip. You sort of have to look for it but it's there for sure in person. The corner right by the guide rail is lifting away.
Picture: https://m.imgur.com/s8upVqt
And with slight zoom: https://m.imgur.com/bNprr
Like I said, I'm more or less going to ignore it or maybe do some preventative maintenance. It seems "contained". 534 games played.

Definitely apply the thin CA glue there. It might travel to the insert light and ghost it.

1 week later
#3106 2 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Well, the YBR gives one too. That's the easy one to get.

The Wizard also gives random extra balls and multiballs to the low scoring player, I have noticed.

#3107 2 years ago

I would also like to turn off the crystal ball exploit or
manage it to like 5 times in a game, or per ball via a setting.

i agree that you can just hit it over and over again if you want, but if you have 2 balls stacked on the left flipper during a multiball, invariably you will hit the crystal ball from that flipper either intentionally or unintentially.

I have novice players screwed out of their bonuses because of the 3 strikes and your out policy.

#3110 2 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

I just got mine. I noticed the same thing with the Monkey... doesn't work all the time. What was your solution?

I put a little dab of silicone grease on the monkey and witch threaded rods to make them run smoothly.
Then I adjusted the monkey sensor a bit (you can even flip it over if it was installed wrong) and it works perfect every time.
It took me maybe 15 tries to get it right, a little nudge here and there... (Im slow...)

#3112 2 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

Gruntilda sound bites from Banjo Kazooie

Or Benny Hill music during multiball.....

#3113 2 years ago

Has anyone seen if there is an upgraded wireform for the crystal ball loop?
I would like to up the power on the VUK a bit more but the ball will fly off the wireform if it ejects too fast.
It looks like it needs just 1" more siderail to get it straight on track.
I have an early game from about 4 months into production and started with 3.0 code.

Im going to try bending it a bit to angle it slightly towards the crystal ball.

#3115 2 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

^ I'd like that because if you ever get a ball on top of a second ball in the VUK... the power of the kicker slowly rises and rises until one of the two balls makes it up. At least one of them ALWAYS goes flying right off the wireform and into the drain :'(

Exactly !

#3149 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Thanks. I did not know that was there not that I will ever use it.

I used it right away on initial setup of my eclewoz, the wife said it was too bright and wanted a duller glow from it.

#3150 2 years ago

Finally broke a flipper bat on my eclewoz #332 !
4000 plays and the left flipper bat is loose on its shaft. The ruby slipper is perfect. no chips or cracks after the initial gluing with CA gel.
The bat itself shows little signs of wear. Gorilla glue on the shaft was a total failure as a quick repair....

I put in a couple white Wms ones while waiting for parts, a perfect fit.

I ordered a couple fresh ruby red flipper sets from Joe at JJP, a quick and painless transaction, incredibly helpful and patient.
Those people there are just a joy to work with, excellent team!

I wonder if the ruby red sparkly flippers are less robust that the regular bats? Maybe a different material?

Its ok though as my wife loves them regardless of the long term duability, and is counting the days until the replacements arrive

I would think that location games might have standard flipper bats if they are more durable.

#3155 2 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

I still have to re-attach my right ruby flipper. I tried 3M Extreme Double-sided Tape. Was pathetic. I let it set for a few hours and it lasted about 5 games. I'm thinking something more permanent is the way to go but I'm worried about changing bands down the line. I could change the bands now and then glue the tops on but I only have 600 games. Feels early. But then again it's like $4.

I just glued the slippers on top of the tape with CA gel glue, I didnt even clean them off, I didnt even remove the old tape.

4 drops of gel across the flipper bat and pressed it together, has been solid for 4000 plays and holds up to band replacement, slippers dont even budge, and I have tried all of the bands available. Currently I like the titan red bands the best.

The super bands (pinball life) hit a little hard and were a little harder to make the throne shot for me. They are probably best on location games as there are super hard and durable.

The Titan bands play and feel a lot like regular rubber but stay way cleaner and seem to wear better.

I have a black super band on the munchkin flipper, makes the ball go around 3 times on a good hit, really solid.
Super bands really smack the ball hard in my opinion.

I have a titan rubber on the castle flipper as it needs a little more control to hit the targets.

With the slippers glued on all of the bands are not even harder to apply, same as a regular flipper.

#3156 2 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Yes, the red sparkly flippers are weaker and we're abandoned about halfway through the production runs of the ECLE.

That makes total sense. However my wife will have nothing but sparkly ruby slippers on "her" game..
Im not even sure if she noticed that the flippers were also sparkly, you cant tell with the rubber on them.

At least they have some in stock as replacements (they claim) for now.

If they have been upgraded to black or red with slippers on top, it should be ok, if not, she will have to find a way in her heart to forgive Jack.

#3166 2 years ago
Quoted from Spg101:

What's up with the slipper Delam on the shoes? I plan to own my game for many years to come. Should I order some now and if so what should I order? Ordered Cliffy's protectors but my munchkin land playing field has already chipped. JJP won't warranty so I'm paying for it. Kind of sucks since the chip happened in less than two weeks...

The Slipper is just held on with tape. It will get loose in time.
If it gets loose just glue it back on with CA gel glue, it will outlast the flipper.

In my case the sparkly red flipper bat itself finally broke off the shaft after thousands of plays, this is quite normal.
The slipper is unchipped and perfectly installed as if it were new after 4 drops of CA gel applied.
I simply ordered a couple new bats from Joe in parts from JJP, and all is well.

I have a couple chips in the edge of the munchkin PF, you cant see them with the cliffy on.
The cliffy is awesome as it covers all the dents and chips that you might see from the players angle.

This weekend Im pulling the munchkin PF to do coil maintenance, the mini flipper needs a complete cleaning of coil stop and sleeve. Im replacing all the dirty worn parts as this is hard to get to.
This is after 4 years of pretty continuous playing.

If you plan to own your game for the duration of many years, I would invest in the 3 spare unpopulated playfields to restore the game in the future as well as a set of side decals or RadCals even.

50,000 plays wears out even the best cared for games.

You never know about the pinball industry, the parts could come in handy, as licences sometimes dont get renewed etc. (think TAF or IJ...).

#3167 2 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Awesome, you hit the nail on the head. Thanks
Now for issue number two lol: The spring from the spinning house that pulls the legs back in popped off, found a washer, spring and e-clip. Any idea on how to open the house and to set the spring back in?

The manual shows the complete break down of the house and the part numbers in case you break something.
Its snapped together in pieces with decals applied.

#3169 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Can the house be taken apart from the top of the playfield?

Probably, but I would pull the whole PF as a precaution the first time I did it. That way I could be more careful.
The plastic is pretty delicate.

#3171 2 years ago

Seemed like plastic the last time I had the PF out....

The complete parts are on page c-40 of the manual, and shows the different parts of the assembly.

#3177 2 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

My munchkin playfield got a tiny chip in the 2 weeks it took the Cliffy protector to get to me and my game was NIB. If your game has been routed, I would be highly surprised if it WASN'T chipped. But yes, still get the protector. Down the road I figured I'd replace the Munchkin playfield, but the chip is so tiny (and I never plan to sell) that I might just... not. But you could always do the same thing - protect it from further damage now, consider replacing later if it's chipped and just use the same Cliffy.

Put a couple thousand plays on it, you wil never notice the chip.

#3179 2 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

I don't really notice it as it is. It's hidden behind the Cliffy now unless you go stand over it on the side of the machine and look for it. Like I said, it's really little. But also very easy to have happen so I'd be surprised if a routed one didn't have chips.

I have similar chip in mine, very small. I just sharpied with a paint pen it and now it just blends into the atwork.
No way am I replacing the mini Pf for this

#3217 2 years ago

Possibly a paused mode, or a way to pause a long game?

#3306 2 years ago
Quoted from BingoBongo:

Where do I reseat the SD card? Is that in the backside of the crystal ball or on one of the boards somewhere?

Yes.
Also re-seat the cable on both ends. Make sure it fits tightly against the crystal ball side and has a little slack. Enough that table rattle wont bugde it.
Try to adjust the wire-form so that it doesnt rub or vibrate the crystal ball.

#3310 2 years ago
Quoted from TRAMD:

Nice! You guys saved me a call to JJP. I have had this problem on BOTH of my WOZs.

I think its just a problem with tiny cameras that use SD cards.
My GoPro camera has the same issues, once in awhile I have to reinsert the SD card to get it to read.
This is just due to vibration along the very light contacts in the socket.

What is needed is a much more robust socket that "bites" into the metal tabs of the SD card for all applications.

#3312 2 years ago
Quoted from BingoBongo:

I am unable to find the sad card slot. Does anyone have a picture of it?

Its behind the crystal ball on the left side (viewing from the front) wedged up just under the ball, above where the cable plugs in.
You cant find the slot because there is a 2gb SD card in it?

#3339 2 years ago
Quoted from netcivil:

anyone else have the issue where the machine doesn't detect balls locked under Munchkin land, and when it does a ball find it doesn't lift the lock to release the balls?
I've had it happen a few times during play, and recently even powering the machine off and on doesn't release the balls. I've had to open the machine up and left the lever by hand.

Under the munchkin huts, check both coils for cold solder joints.
Even if they look ok, re-flow the solder joints on the coil tabs.
Test it in the service menu afterwards, it should work 100%.

If it still seems weak, bend the metal tab under the coil up a little.

#3345 2 years ago
Quoted from Spg101:

Interesting, it would appear my machine was manufactured on 12/15/16 but I received the "old" manual with mine. Hoping I have the new system...

I dont think there is a printed new manual.
Its available from JJP as a printable/viewable pdf file though:

version 3.5
http://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/support/#downloads

#3378 2 years ago
Quoted from Radius118:

Plain old carbon steel balls that I run in a rotary polisher. Your special shiny balls are most likely chromium and therefore not suitable in games that have magnets, as you have discovered.
I think you are imaging the dust aspect. The majority of "dust" in a game comes from the rubbers as they slowly disintegrate. Also coil dust from wear and tear.

The heavy cloud of black dust is from the coil stops disintegrating.
It gets picked up by the ball and is ground into everything.
Clean your games often and apply wax so that the dust grinds into the wax and not the PF.

I wax everything with either P21S (silver can for PF) or novus or mist n shine. These all have a little wax in them and wont eat plastic.

#3408 2 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

You know Novus is a plastic cleaner, right? Use simple green instead.

Simple green is ok, it leaves a dull residue though.
Put it on glass you will see it.
I use it for seriously dirty stuff like under PF assemblies, that and purple power.
Topside ive been using sparkle, mist n shine and novus 1 since it leaves a shiny residue.
These things are pretty safe to use and wont destroy anything if spilled etc... especially around the coated invisiglass.

#3409 2 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

You can use a non petroleum based polish like pledge and others.

Please dont use pledge any more.
I really love it and it plays super fast on older games, but its not for use on anything modern or clearcoated.

Use mist n shine detailing spray, its really good stuff.

#3411 2 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

What do you use for the intermittent cleaning of the playfield between waxings?

JJP uses mist n shine for detailing before shipping.

amazon.com link »

Or get a gallon for everything in your home, including you car:

amazon.com link »

#3431 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Have a lead on a woz ecle from 2014 that supposedly had the light boards replaced. The game has no mods and is a four owner game. Conditions looks to be very nice. What price are these changing hands?
What was the cabinet style back then, direct print?
Thx
Thx

A lot of ECLEWOZ numbered 0 to 1000 are selling at $7900 to $8500 with low plays (less than 300).
A couple I saw were NIB, but I think those have dried up.
Im also looking for a NIB one...
I have 3500 plays on mine with original 7.5v un-buffered boards.
I have never had a single glitch or failure, but i havent routed the game either.

The game is like brand new.

#3441 2 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

From all the posts I have read of WOZ owners having to replace their light boards, the consensus of most is that the others are soon to file suit and fail shortly after. Sorry to be Debbie downer, just letting you know what is being iterated here with n the WOZ thread

Im not sure if WOZ owners are "having to replace" their light boards is a fair assessment.
And this is not the consensus of most. In fact i would call it "Hogwash".

Certainly in a pinball game things break, its part of the fun.
Certainly as new technologies develop there will be improvements and replacements down stream.

JJP has always replaced anything you need with expert help in fairly short order, free of charge during the warranty period. JJP has an extremely generous warranty period of 1 year on electronics!
Stern has only a 30 day warranty period.

If you are having a continuous problem, work with JJP and there will be a resolution. Im confident they will not forget about you down the road as many other companies do.

Also check your wall power, its generally the culprit if things are constantly burning out.

A lot of 2nd hand owners have even received spare parts free of charge after the warranty period had expired!

If you are having trouble after the warranty expires JJP has gone the extra step in offering many customers half price replacement parts to try to help out. This type of service is above and beyond anything the pinball industry has ever offered and makes them a World Class organization in my book.

Some people always want the latest and the greatest for their games, not all are willing to pay for it.

I have a mid production ECLEWOZ and have had my share of difficulties but, in each case everything was sorted out perfectly. The team at JJP is amazing.

I have no problems with my light boards and I think with this Im in the majority.
If I want to get the newest version 2.0 light boards, I will pay for them.
But again this would be just about desire not common sense.

#3447 2 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

Whoa dude, take a chill pill. I was simply reiterating what people have been talking about concerning there WOZ who had early unbuffered boards and their replacement of them. I have also had many a conversation with WOZ owners at shows with early productions who have had to replace all their light boards, so no "hogwash" is intended. As far as updating to the 2.0 boards it is not possible and I quote from Frank over at JJP "there is not an option to switch to the new 2.0 LEDs…major changes" but maybe in the future a harness adapter/code update may make it possible
Furthermore, I have never said nor implied JJP service is not up to par, so not sure why you would need to take it upon yourself to lecture me on their warranty differences compared to Stern. In fact I will be the first to say that JJP has the best service of any pinball company HANDS DOWN! Jack himself even emailed and called me dealing with my recent woz purchase and his entire staff has been more than accommodating in helping me get my customers machines squared away.

"hogwash" rescinded

#3457 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

WOZ has technically supported 2.0 lighting (well, both light systems) since the last ISO update (6.06), though the lamp ordering changed since that release, hence 6.10 exists. There is a WOZ update in the works that should hit beta this week that will get the corrected lamp order out for everyone as well as some extra goodies.

WOW! just WOW!

1 week later
#3538 2 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

when ordering your fire pots were they assembled for you or in different pieces?

Call or email them, they will send you a new one, no questions asked.
They are THAT good!

#3539 2 years ago

Just installed the "Back Alley Creations" mods on my ECLEWOZ:

http://www.backalleycreations.com/wizard%20of%20oz%20mods.html

Tornado
Walls
Toto

I had the modfather walls, and I have to say they held up beautifully for 3000 games, and were easy to install!
But sadly they were falling apart.

Matt has done an amazing job on all of these sculptures.

Just like in the video on his website, the walls and Toto installed in literally 10 mins.
They are rugged and solid and can take a ball hit easily if necessary.

The brickwork looks really good, natural and realistic.
Toto is just plain cute.

The Tornado was slightly problematic (no video for this one):

Mark holes as he suggests in the ramp (set tornado in place mark through holes with sharpie).
Drill out holes (Put towel under to catch shavings, find a drill bit slightly wider than the screws provided maybe 7 or 9/64ths?)

Installing the screws without taking off the ramp (true laziness...) was a puzzle.

I installed the furthest one in first.
I glued the nylock nut to my finger with a tiny drop of CA glue, twisted the tornado away so that I could get the screw on to it while sticking my finger deep unto the narrow area. I ended up using an ignition wrench ( a tiny socket would also work, I couldnt find mine until after it was done) to hold the nylock nut while carefully turning the screw with my electric drill gun. Then I just twisted the tornado back where it should be, the metal mounting plate snapped into place.

Once that was installed the outer most screw was easy enough (still glued it to my finger first).

After the install it was worth every penny of the amount spent, to see my wife's face after seeing "Her" game's beautiful additions.
She only has one thing to say about Toto, "CUTE, So cute!"
The Tornado with the glass on looks very realistic, I wasnt sure about it until I had it all re-assembled.
She loves every bit of this collection of sculptures.

Thank you so much Matt for having these Mods available to us non-RR version owners!

Next up is Steve's replacement Witch, this really is a must have. I never liked the "Witch in a can" idea.

#3541 2 years ago
Quoted from wtatumjr:

Red Smoke Witch Mod is $200 but well worth it. I wish JJP would make it a factory option

RRrWOZLE ?

#3551 2 years ago
Quoted from Spg101:

I have not been able to get a single "RESCUE" on the upper castle pf. Appears my upper flipper is not resting at full back hindering my power. Any recommendations? Here's a pic.

I agree it sounds like the coil stop is loose or has fallen off.
Glue the screws in with blue loc-tite, you can barely reach them from underneath.
Remove the castle PF to do a thorough inspection.
Check the tightness of all the screws you can see.
If they are loose glue them in with blue loc-tite.
If the loose screws are in wood, glue them in with titebond III.

#3572 2 years ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

So I would like to know how the flipper holds shut off pops? Is this a timing thing I'm doing wrong cause never seemed to work for me. Is it a settings thing I need to change?

Its a setting in the service menu.

#3580 2 years ago
Quoted from Spg101:

Who do I get it from? PM with details if you don't mind. This machine is the cat's meow! have played it every day since I got it. Looking for another now. Told the wife, if one toy goes I need to replace with another... LOL!

Get the cliffy for the munchkin mini playfield at the very least.

#3582 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Ha! I think Pinside needs to add a feature that every time someone adds a WOZ to their collection, they get an automatic email telling them of the importance of adding that cliffy. It seems like one of us is saying it every 50 posts or so.

Basically they should be installed by the factory, where they are needed.
Stern has started to do this on GB.

I see no sense in relying on the aftermarket to address durability issues that are well known.

#3590 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Yes. It has happened to several of us. It is a rare occurrence for me, and I assume you too. Rebooting is the solution as you discovered.

Check for a loose cable into the rear of the computer box:

While the game is turned on and the playfield is extended to its further most rubber feet. Look in the rear area behind the playfield.
Grip the big black hose full of wires, behind the playfield ,at the bottom of the cabinet and move it around.
If the lights go on and off, one of the connectors in the back of the computer is loose.
Wiggle them one at a time and you will find it.

#3592 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Yes, this has happened as well.

I can check, but the problem has been freezing lights or all off as described above, not necessarily blinking on and off. It is very rare.

That sounds like low power from the wall crashing the PC once in awhile.

#3597 2 years ago

Maybe remove the door puncture it and roll it down with a brayer?
There's got to be a way to fix a decal bubble it must happen all the time.

#3603 2 years ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

Well i should say i wont settle for less then a new decal. I still havent heard back from them yet .

I would try rolling it down with a brayer and a little heat from a hair dryer.
maybe puncture the bubble with the tip of an exacto knife first, after loosening or removing the door.

way easier than replacing the whole decal.

vinyl sign guys have to deal with this all day long.

If that fails or looks like crap, then replace the decal. I imagine you can get as many as you need to make it right.

#3607 2 years ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

Yes I have new decal coming. Problem I see is where coin door is, decal is really stuck no way rolling air bubbles past that. Also noticed this when going to qork decal its bubbling up around shooter rod to.

Looks like the temperature or humidity was off when it was installed.
Its a bit of work to replace it, but not terrible.
See if there is a pinsider near you with experience to help out if youve never done it before.

Changing a decal is easier than changing a cabinet...

1 week later
#3634 2 years ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

Umm, not sure. It's a late 2015 build woz standard and this shaker is not aftermarket.

Did you try backing up your scores and reloading the OS?

#3637 2 years ago
Quoted from frankmac:

This is a must have MOD!!!

Congrats!

It changes the game completely!

1 week later
#3656 2 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

Is it me or does the invisibles seem like it's always stuck in there and needs super grip to pull out. It definitely does not slide out

It can be snug.
Its better snug due to the shaker motor than loose and rattling around.
Hopefully it will loosen up a bit with use. Maybe try a little teflon dry lube in the channel?

#3688 2 years ago
Quoted from thunder001:

I just got a WOZ brand new out of the box and played all day yesterday with my kids. I ran some tests this morning and I'm finding when I run the all LED light test to each color not all the LED's on the playfield are changing to the same color. Is this right or are some of the LED's not the RGB? I've read these machines have issues with the light boards and I'm not sure if this is a problem or the way they should work.

Mine does the same, everything seems good though.

#3711 2 years ago
Quoted from jyeakley:

Hey all,
I have a weird issue going on. The tinman rollover is registering as the bumper lane out and the bumper lane out is registering as the tinman. This is my father in laws machine, so it could be possible that it has always been like this (maybe reversed from factory?).
Anybody seen or had this happen?
Here are some pics of the switch test...

I would suspect the pop bumper area first as they take quite a beating, but you never know.

It might be a pin in a wire not touching or pushed out of its connector, or possibly broken and the computer is trying to compensate for its incorrect address.

I would check the schematic and see if its wired right first. You might see something disconnected or loose if you poke around while doing this.

#3713 2 years ago

Only on the ECLEWOZ versions.

#3716 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

The primary advantage to the 2.0 boards is that if one board does go out, it doesn't require that you bypass it to keep the other boards running properly while you wait for a replacement. Also can make diagnostic of a faulty board easier since each board is pretty much isolated.

Less wires, less daisy chaning, less components, less connectors = less trouble

#3723 2 years ago
Quoted from BlueIrocGuy:

but visual check of all fuses looks good

visual tests of fuses are useless. Use a tester or a meter.

#3745 2 years ago

I had to replace the right door motor recently at about 5000 plays.
It didnt burn out, the armature became loose inside the motor.

When this happens it explains the "weakness" that the motors exhibit after a time.

The new motor had the shaft flattened to avoid spinning in the door shaft like the early ones did if slightly loose from vibration.

this also explains the squealing or grinding noise that accompanies this fault even though the doors are properly adjusted and not loose on their motor shafts.

After replacing the motor and upon re-assembly and testing, the ball would push the right door past the latch and leave it slightly open.

Bashing the left door will release it of course and the software fix will fix it on the next ball but the door is out of service until it becomes properly latched again.

Solving the right door latch problem:

I called frank and he was adamant about adjusting the "finger" or adjustment tab on the latch plate coil.
He was right.

Proper door height adjustment, while super important, is less important than the little finger-like adjustment stop above the latch plate.

Door height is easy to adjust. There should be about 3/32" between the door shaft and the motor. You can use a drill bit or an allen key as a spacer to get them uniform.

If the door is too high the switch actuator will scrape on the wood.
If its too low the doors will scrape on the latch plate. The slightest scraping and the door will not close as it only has the spring to pull it back into position.

So basically just set them so that they have plenty of clearance from both sides of the switch actuator.

Latch plate adjustment:

You can only get to it with the double door assembly removed from the castle playfield. Its easy to adjust with a big screwdriver to lift the stop and maybe a 5/16 nut driver to bend it down again.

On my game the "finger" is bent about 7 degrees upward. Ultimately the angle of the "finger" will match the angle of the latch plate as it gets hit repeatedly. This will cause the latch plate to rise upwards slightly and possibly interfere with the door switch actuator.

This is not particularly problematic as there seems to be plenty of clearance over-all if it does bend.
With the latch raised in its upward location the switch actuator should rest at least 3/4 of the way down in the latch channel.
If the doors are already adjusted properly, adjust the "finger" on the latch plate stop to make this happen.

If the latch plate is too low the ball can push the door switch actuator past the latch, and result in the door being locked behind the latch and not closing all the way.

As the game ages the double door stop pad ( manual page c-38 #19 part number 25-3000-00) will wear at an angle.

This will make an angled ramp that the door switch actuator will use to lower the latch and sneak past.

So, if you can firmly tap the right door and get it to push past the latch, the rubber door stop pad is worn out.

The coil and latch is held on with a single screw, it will have to be removed to change the rubber door pad.
Use blue lock-tite on reassembly, you dont want to remove everything if it comes loose. Although you can reach it sorta with the castle playfield installed if you know what your looking at.

The pad only wears about 1/4" off of either side at the top mostly.
I didnt have a replacement handy so I cut it off with a razor knife, and rubbed off the old adhesive from the latch and the rubber pad.

I cut the pad in two and rotated the pieces to get a fresh edge on the top, then glued the pieces back on with CA gel. A thin layer of 5 min epoxy would also work.

Properly adjusted and with a fairly new door stop pad on the latch you should not be able to twist the door shaft past the latch at all, the door shafts should rebound easily with no scraping and nothing should be binding.

I reassembled the game and the doors work flawlessly, better than new.

2 weeks later
#3794 2 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Seems like lately, when more than one ball is held in the ball lock area, every now & then, the game will release one of them in the middle of my turn, for no reason at all (I think!), giving me an impromptu multiball session. Has only started happening recently.
This ever happen to anyone else? Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance!

Check for loose connections anywhere under the PF. It could be a loose connection not seemingly related to the lock arm.

Remove the munchkin hut plastic and check the integrity of the solder joints of both the coils front and back (lock and diverter).

A loose or intermittent connector with fool the computer into doing odd things.

However if the game calls for a ball for a mode and one is locked, sometimes it will release one into play from the lock.

#3811 2 years ago
Quoted from rubberducks:

Does anyone know what the machine actually REQUIRES from the switching PSU Meanwell SP-320-7.5 at the back of the machine (mine is December '13 build date - I think before they came with proprietary power boards).
It's rated at 300W and 40A at 7.5VDC ... I struggle to imagine anything on that voltage needing 300W ... so can I replace it with a silent, fanless 200W one instead?
It's the source of all the (really loud) fan noise.
P.S. All the stuff not working was due to to a faulty 12V connector going into the I/O board. Everything works now. Thanks guys.

200w is probably good enough but might have a shorter duty cycle than the 300w.

Silent 300w ATX power supplies are available with the 120mm slow RPM fans now.
And they are not too expensive.

#3816 2 years ago
Quoted from rubberducks:

I'm assuming all it does is supply the 7.5V LED boards ... which I seriously doubt ever hit 100W of draw, even at full brightness with all of them on / pulsing.
Is this correct?

It also supplies the PC.

1 week later
#3881 2 years ago
Quoted from Spg101:

Ok, I'm not as good as a lot of people on this site but just got my highest score ever!

Thats a great score congrats!

2 weeks later
#3922 2 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

Are there any known tweaks to improve the consistency of making the ramp shot?
Do others get frustrated with the ramp, especially from the right flipper?
I'm open to any suggestions other than improve my aim. I can make the shot, but rejects are more common.

Periodically clean the ramp with novus 1.
The ball will slide on the ramp walls a bit and reject less frequently.
Other than that, figure out where the ball has to be on the flipper to make the ramp easily. Put a small dot in that location on the flipper with a sharpie marker.

I did this for my wife and she has moved the mark several times while learning, it helped her a lot.
Now she has cleaned off all the marks (3 years later) and says they are a distraction.

Finding the sweet spot is one of the joys of pinball and part of the mastery of each title. Its very much like a musical instrument, after awhile you just "know" where the notes are.

#3924 2 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

I'll give novus a try. The shot is doable, but I feel it should be more reliable.
If I have too much flipper power, the rejects increase. Too low, and there's not enough strength to go up to playfield.
It's most consistent from a cradle, but I'd like to tweak it so the shot was more common on the fly. There's something that just seems slightly design deficient.

Check that the flipper is exactly in line with the outlane guide, use a steel ruler.
Extremely small changes in flipper angles have a huge effect on game play.
I was using the hole to adjust the flippers but its off about 3/64" from where it plays best on my game.

3 weeks later
#3973 1 year ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Howdy-
My crystal ball on my ECLE pooped out.
Played a game. During boot, noticed colorful backwards/upside-down text scrolling. After game started, colorful backwards/upside-down text stayed put.
I didn't pay much mind to the text, but I think I recall seeing "SDa" or "SDu" in there(?)
Power cycle.
Now crystal ball dark.
Wiggled connector to back of crystal ball screen. Nothing.
Popped the card out & popped it back in.
Power cycle..
Still dark.
Started tracing cable to give the other end of it a wiggle. It hides in the umbilical with a million other wires.
Where does it come out on the other end?
What's the fix for this issue?
Thank you very much,
-Jason

If you have tried all of the fixes, checked all of the cables and pressed the sd card in firmly and still is doesnt light up, its possible that the little OLED screen is burned out.

Fortunately they are available on the JJP site as a replacement part:

http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/OLED-Screen-.html