(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

6 years ago

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  • 10,464 posts
  • 556 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by LTG
  • Topic is favorited by 252 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (6 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (3 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (1 year ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (1 year ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (12 months ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#67 6 years ago

I've really been enjoying the game for the nearly 6 months I've had it. Game is using 7.5v LED boards and I haven't had any major issues thankfully. The 3.0 code for the game really makes the game have a polished feel and the ruleset is crazy deep as promised I do hope that a few tweaks are made to the game that I believe would really help increase the fun factor of the game.

1. Modify Munchkin mode rules to make the modes a little more interesting. Keith himself said that this is a possibility. It would be great if these felt more like objective based modes with specific shots to hit rather than hit every switch / hit every shot points modes.
2. Increase the use of the crystal ball. The crystal ball toy is a very cool feature but its currently not used a lot. It would be great to see the crystal ball point out specific extra shots (other than "Skill" shot) or other things to collect.

1 month later
#251 6 years ago

Heads up. Looks like another code update of some kind is coming according to Jack on the Google Group. It may be just bug fixes but its nice to know that another update will be coming at some point.

A few months back Keith mentioned possibly adjusting the rules of the Munchkin modes to make them a little more interesting so who knows maybe that will be one of the changes.

2 weeks later
#316 5 years ago

Has anyone heard if a new code version is being tested for WOZ?

1 week later
#327 5 years ago

Jack just posted on the JJP group last night that an another update is indeed coming soon! A few days is the estimate.

Can't wait to see what the team has been cooking up for the next update

1 week later
#362 5 years ago

Some news on the next update.

A user on the JJP Google Group (can't confirm if staff, user name I didn't recognize, I assume so) posted this today about the next WOZ update.

"In a few days we will have it to test, then unless there are any issues it will be released shortly thereafter. That's the latest I've heard. "

#380 5 years ago

Yup! Vote WOZ in 2014!

1 week later
#390 5 years ago
Quoted from DaveH:

Yeah (spin it enough and yes). But the difficulty goes up by default. So the second needs more loops, and the third still more. I usually fall apart before the third and have not made it to the multiball yet.

I hear ya. Same here, lol.

1 year later
#901 4 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

I am about to buy a standard for $8250 CAN but I think it is the old standard. Do you think its a smart move or should I spend a bit more to get a ECLE? Does the old standard have "problems" that I need to be aware of and does it have green armor and rails?

I would find out the games build date and how many plays are on it. If the game was made I believe September 2013 or after it has the newer 7.5v light boards. My ECLE is from October 2013 and it has the newer boards in it. If the game was made prior to September 2013 it will likely have the older 5v boards unless they have been replaced which if that's the case the game is perfectly find. A WOZ standard and ECLE made in say October 2013 using 7.5v light boards shares the exactly same electrical hardware.

I tried to find the post that contains a picture of the 7.5v boards so you can tell if a game has them or not but can't find it.

1 year later
#3744 3 years ago

Here's a few pics of a heavily routed early built WOZ at Orange Lake resort in Flordia. I've seen the game there for at least the past 3-4 years. Standard model game, mylar kit not installed. It's cool to see how heavily used games hold up on route. Overall I thought that the playfield has held up well, the game just needed a good cleaning. Also had some light board issues going on.

20170330_131345 (resized).jpg20170330_131339 (resized).jpg

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1 month later
#3929 2 years ago

Anyone think it's worth it to replace perfectly working, but unbufered 7.5v light boards with the new 2.0 boards? Cost is probably $800-$1k but wondering in the long run if it would be worth it?

My WOZ ECLE was made late Oct 2013 and has 7.5v unbufered light boards, not the original 5v boards. I haven't had any issues with them at all.

I've considered replacing the game with a Ruby Red but don't want to give up the collectiblity factor of the ECLE, prefer the look of the ECLE, like the clear coated apron and the direct printed cabinet is gorgeous.

Seems like issues with the 7.5v unbufered boards are hit or miss. Some have had issues with them, others none.

Also, just so the information exists in the thread I heard that the issue why unbufered boards may have an issue is from static that can build up on the playfield in dry settings. The buffered boards absorb the static. JJP recommends using Wizards Mist n Shine wax / cleaner on their playfields partially because it is anti static.

#3931 2 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

No. Why replace perfectly good components unless you are having a ton of failures? Mine has been solid. Would never think to replace anything unless I start to have lots of issues one after another...not remotely likely to happen at this point.

Good point, that's a good way of looking at it.

#3933 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Cost will more likely be north of $2K. Not sure they will make kits.
Strip out all LED boards, remove all data harnesses and power cables that are cable tied to everything. Drill GI tube holes bigger. Put LED boards back in, all new data and power cables, BAG and HUB boards. New power supply. etc. etc.
If, and that is a huge "IF", a person is mechanically and electrically proficient , you are looking at 10 plus hours of work.
And I won't be doing tech support on this.
LTG : )

Yup, I'll pass! Lol

1 year later
#6262 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I paid in full years before it was built and received it about 4 months into production.
It has the latest board set prior to 2.0.
I have had zero large board failures but lost 3 single led boards.
I have replaced 6 castle motors.
I have rebuilt the flippers 4 times each.
I have replaced the sparkly flipper bats twice.
I replaced the right castle door the last time I put a motor in. It was pretty beat up but not ruined.
Last week I replaced both flipper bushings they were both broken (probably for awhile).
1.5 million and 1.3 million flipper cycles in the audits.
The game plays perfectlty and looks new. But it lacks the crispness of a NIB game.
I'm weighing the price of restoration vs playfield replacement.
The game hasn't moved since I set it up. It gets about 5 or 7 plays a day.
Most interesting is that pinballgoddess is complaining that the flippers are too strong and the game is faster after the bushings were replaced lol.
They must have been broken for awhile and I didnt catch it.
One other thing of note, she very much prefers perfect play flipper rubbers on this game. I have all of the available types and if I put the wrong ones I hear about it immediately lol

Thanks for posting the information. That seems like a very reliable game after 9000+ plays, wow. I've been debating on ordering the 2.0 kit (have a 7.5v game) but after reading your post I'll likely hold off. Other owners with 7.5v light boards game have reported them to be very reliable and the few that I've read that have had problems have only had to replace a single LED light board. Nearly every owner of a WOZ with 7.5v light boards I've heard from hasn't had a light board issue.

For those that have games with 7.5v boards I would recommend using Wizards Mist N Shine wax. JJP has recommended it and supposedly it reduces playfield static buildup that can lead to light boards failing. I now use it on all my games.

amazon.com link »

3 months later
#6703 1 year ago

Just a heads up for those with 7.5v light board games. I was cleaning the playfield on my WOZ yesterday and after a quick wipe down with Novus 1 went to apply a hard carnauba wax. I had been waxing the playfield with Wizards Mist n Shine per JJP's recommendation as it has anti static properties which is key to reducing the chance of light board issues on 7.5v games.

I've never had an issue with my game so figured I would skip the Mist n Shine this time and just use a caranuba wax. Well, while buffing the dried caranuba wax off the playfield using a microfiber cloth I could hear the static build up / release on the cloth. I cleaned 3 other pins prior to this and never noticed a static build up sound while buffing the playfield. I did have the game plugged in but it was turned off. I ended up going back over the playfield with Wizards Mist n Shine, same type of cloth, and noticed 0 static build up. Weird.

So if you have a WOZ with 7.5v light boards use Wizards Mist n Shine to wax your playfield. It's the static build up on the light boards / playfield that can cause light board issues and failures. Cleaning the game with a product like Wizards Mist n Shine will reduce static build up on the playfield.

amazon.com link »

1 week later
#6763 1 year ago

Trying to change my WOZ settings so the game plays as close to default settings as possible. Seems like there's 1 default score award at 30k points that awards an extra ball. That point value seems low but maybe that's how the programmer designed it? Also changed ball save to off which is the default setting.

I used to have extra balls given out at 500k and 1 million points along with a 7 second ball save time but after seeing some long running games I prefer the game to be at default settings.

#6766 1 year ago
Quoted from adol75:

30k for an extra ball is quite low. My default setting is auto, and in that mode, I've never seen eb below 130k.

Yeah that's what I was thinking, will change it. Thanks.

1 week later
#6812 1 year ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

All original from day one.

Do you know if the boards are the original 5.5v unbuffered boards, 5.5v buffered boards, or 7.5v boards? The original 5.5 unbuffered boards are very unstable.

3 months later
#7865 11 months ago

Having some odd behavior with the munchkin ball lock. Seems like balls won't release for multiball unless I press both flippers which causes them to release. Running version 6.61 code (need to update). Anyone else seen this?

#7869 11 months ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

If it is lifting ok when no balls are in the lock then I am betting it is the bending trick that is needed.
See post #3398 in this thread

Thank you! Will give that a try. Yeah lifts when no balls are locked as well as in test.

8 months later
#9851 3 months ago

So I'm not sure if this is an issue or not or just requires a settings adjustment. I noticed this in 6.5 and yesterday when I upgraded to 7.02. When the monkey mech brings the ball from the lower playfield to the upper one and stops behind the door it does not let go of the ball until I press the flipper buttons. When I do I notice a slight shaker motor affect so it almost seems intended?


#9856 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:Ball may be magnetized.
Try a piece of tape over the pickup magnet.
Quoted from LTG:

Black electricians tape works best. A small piece across the top of the monkey magnet.
LTG : )

Thanks, I'll try that!

2 weeks later
#9920 85 days ago

Does anyone have a solution for a ball getting stuck behind this area on the upper left playfield. It doesn't happen often but still enough to make it annoying.

20200304_084910 (resized).jpg

#9924 85 days ago
Quoted from adol75:

I get one there once in a while but lifting the flipper always gets it out.
Does yours stay stuck ?

Yeah it stays stuck.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

If you are getting airballs way up there?
Maybe lower the flipper power a notch or 2

That might be causing it. I'll try lowering the upper left flipper power. Thanks!

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