(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

7 years ago

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9 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (7 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (4 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (2 years ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (2 years ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (2 years ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (2 years ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #11015 Adjustment advice for the monkey Posted by LTG (8 months ago)

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#934 5 years ago

Hi all. I'm seriously considering getting a Standard WOZ. I have a few questions.

In the US, what is the typical distributor price I should expect to pay for the standard version NIB delivered?

Are there any game play or significant feature differences between the Standard and some of the limited editions, or is it all very nice bling?

Finally, I need to free up some more funds and am looking at April of next year to purchase. Do you know if they will still be available NIB at that time?

Thanks in advance for the feedback!

#958 5 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Hi all. I'm seriously considering getting a Standard WOZ. I have a few questions.

In the US, what is the typical distributor price I should expect to pay for the standard version NIB delivered?

Finally, I need to free up some more funds and am looking at April of next year to purchase. Do you know if they will still be available NIB at that time?

Thanks in advance for the feedback!


#960 5 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

There will certainly still be WOZ NIB but what you will pay is uncertain. As for pricing I would call a distributor and ask. I use Buddy Herron from Mountain Entertainment http://www.buddyspinball.com He goes by Doughslinger on Pinside.

Thanks for the response. I didn't really want to start calling distributors yet because I'm several months away from making a purchase. I was just wondering what the ballpark distributor price for a standard was.

3 months later
#1062 5 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

I am in about the same position as you. I am probably a couple of months away from deciding and placing an order. I'm trying to decide between WOZ and the Hobbit but I am already doing some preliminary research. Prices are all over the place online. The best price appears to be Joe @ Pinballstar at $8000 for a standard. Next seems to be Automated at $8500 for a standard with a shaker and Invisiglass. Most expensive is JJP at $8500 (no shaker or Invisiglass, those are $500 extra). Shipping can make or break who is the best.

Thanks. Assuming no March surprises in my finances, I'm about 1-2 months away from joining this club. I can't wait!

3 weeks later
#1109 5 years ago

Hi all. Just ordered a RR 75th. I'm very excited and can't wait until it arrives.

I have a couple of questions to prepare: First, how many balls does it take, and can I use the balls that come with the game, or are they like the Stern balls that you should throw out immediately?

Second, where is the best place to get the munchkinland edge cliffy protector? I didn't see them at pinballife. How easy is it to install? Drilling holes in a brand new game scares me.

Anyway, thanks! I'll post pics when it arrives.

#1113 5 years ago
Quoted from clg:

I put the cliffy on and I don't think I have ever had a ball hit on it.

Funny. I also have life insurance, but so far it hasn't been worth it. I do wonder what percentage of these things get chipped. You hear about the ones that do but not all of the ones that don't.

Quoted from Pimp77:

Passionforpinball.com is Cliffy's site and where to buy that protector. It's easy to install.

Thanks. For some reason, I didn't think he sold direct. I'll check it out.

#1121 5 years ago

Hi all. My new WoZ is coming tomorrow. Are there any adjustments that most people find they need to make that I should be on the look out for? Things like sling and flipper power settings and the like?

#1124 5 years ago

Ok, thanks all. Much appreciated.

#1128 5 years ago

Thanks again for the replies. WoZ came today. I've been spending almost all afternoon playing. Loving it! Here are the pictures:


#1130 5 years ago

So, just a few questions:

1. When the winged monkey captures Dorthy, he gets caught by the door on the way up. He always powers through and successfully deposits Dorthy in the castle. But, is there some way to adjust the door to move it slightly forward, or adjust the monkey to move it slightly back. I don't want him to keep getting scraped by the door.

2. The code that came with it is 4.11. I'm thinking about playing on it for a while to get a feel for the game and then updating. Any downside to doing this other than not having the best code? For example, are there major bugs?

3. My plunger seems stiff. It is hard to control the softness of the plunge. Is this normal, or should I adjust somehow?

4. Occasionally, the right sling seems to double fire. I need to check the gap. It could just be slightly too close.

5. Sometimes, right at the start of a game, before I plunge, I'm in witch hurry up mode. That seems wrong. Is it?

#1133 5 years ago

Well there is something wrong with my witch switch. It is not a normal leaf switch. It looks almost like a push button switch on both sides. When the switch is hit, it doesn't always turn off. I can see this in switch test mode where they are both green. If I start a game with both switches hit, I get the witch hurry up right away.

Can anyone tell me how those dual switches are supposed to work? Maybe it is a bad switch?

#1136 5 years ago
Quoted from wtatumjr:

There are 2 witch switches so figure out if it's the upper or lower. Then loosen the switch on the underside, adjust and retighten.

So, I figured out that when I press the switch, it registers. Then, I let it go, and it doesn't press back hard enough against the switch to turn it off. So, it may be both. Can you tell me what you mean by loosening, adjusting and retighting? It looks pretty tight under there, and I'm not entirely sure how this one works or what specifically to adjust. Thanks.

#1139 5 years ago
Quoted from wtatumjr:

You'll see 2 micro switches on the underside of the witch . They have a roller attached to them. Push the witch switch as a ball would and observe how it works while looking at the underside. Each of the 2 switches is attached to the mounting plate. You need to loosen the switch where it mounts then you can slide it towards or away from the activating plate. I think it was 2 very small Phillips screws.

Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Lloyd posted this pic in another thread with a similar problem. It shows the underside of the witch and the nuts to loosen are circled in red (its a very thin red line, so zoom in a bit if you cant see it). Once loose, you can adjust how close/far the switches are, sounds like they need to come back a a little.
Let us know how it works out.

You guys rock! That was the exact problem and fix. Thanks for the clear explanation and posting of pictures. It really helped and things are working again. I was hoping there would be an easy adjustment, but I kept looking at the thing and couldn't figure out what it was. You saved me a lot of frustration. Thanks!

#1140 5 years ago

Well . . . now my ruby slipper fell off the flipper bat. I assume this is fixed with just a couple drops of super glue, is that right?

#1143 5 years ago
Quoted from wtatumjr:

I talked with Mr Melvin Anderson of JJP quality control witch switch division. While he is sorry you had witch trouble he suspects someone monkeyed with the witch after it left the factory.


I'm guessing the travel sprites loosened that switch and set it back.

It's so interesting to play a new pin and think that something may be wrong but not be completely sure. As I was playing, I kept noticing a scratchy white noise sound that repeatedly went off. I was wondering if a speaker was malfunctioning. It got to the point that I couldn't stand playing because that was all I could hear. Then, it occurred to me that it almost sounded like straw rustling and that it might be the scarecrow. But, as I watched the game, I didn't hit that rollover enough to make it sound so often. Finally, I took the glass off, and started hitting the ball around on the switches. I noticed that all of my SCARECROW letters were lit without once hitting the rollover. Looked under the playfield and discovered that the leaf switch was gapped so close it was basically touching. Easy fix, but because I wasn't familiar enough with the game, it took a while to figure out what that awful sound was.

#1149 5 years ago

So, here's my next question: a hard shot to the crystal ball spinner from the right flipper causes the ball to go through the spinner and sometimes bounce back out (again through the spinner) without going to the VUK. I haven't gotten a good look at where it is being rejected. Is this a common problem, and is there a tweak to fix it? (I should note that soft shots and shots from the left flipper while cradling two balls both work ok.)

#1151 5 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

That's how they all work that I've played. It's a tight shot.

Wow, that's a tough shot with a lot of risk to have it be rejected so often when you seemingly nailed it. Any tips for when and how to get the crystal ball shot?

#1172 5 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

OK - WoZ has been ordered. It was built within the past 6 months, so all of the lightboard issues should be resolved. NIB, so I have the JJP warranty if I need it.
Are there any specific "out of box" tweaks to be aware of? Re-read the posts by Nokoro to get an idea of potential hiccups I may have, but other than that...The Cliffy set is about the only thing I need to grab for HUO play, right?

Congrats! I'm loving mine.

I did have a fair number of tweaks and issues out of the box. It worked, just had some loose bolts and switches that needed to be adjusted. It was hard to figure out some of the issues since I had only played on location before and wasn't entirely sure what was normal behavior. My advice: after you play those first 3-4 mandatory games and want to take a rest, go into switch test mode and make sure no switches are closed that shouldn't be. Tap around the playfield to see if any close by vibration such that you would have to adjust the gap. Etc. You'll also be rewarded with a beautiful switch matrix display which will have you wondering how you ever put up with the Stern DMD one.

Also, as I have been playing, I've noticed a few things. For example, soft hits on the castle targets don't register hits on my machine. I increased the castle flipper power, and that seems to have helped. The wonderful thing is that, unlike Stern games, almost everything is adjustable. Despite the few issues I've had, I'm really impressed with the technology that JJP developed. Enjoy!

#1182 5 years ago

My ceilings are too low in the basement to put my 75th anniversary topper on. I'm thinking about trying to mount it to the wall. Has anyone done that or anything else with the topper?

#1185 5 years ago

I bought the munchkinland cliffy but no others. Now, I just have to build up the courage to install it. . . .

#1187 5 years ago

Yeah, the drilling into my brand new machine part is the part that really scares me.

#1203 5 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

Got my game setup! I was unaware that the standards were numbered? Few questions about it!
1. Never mind! Turning the game off and on with the USB in did the update automatically.
2. When I'm in the menus, there's a slight humming that comes out of the speakers. What would cause this?
3. How do I make the State Fair Balloon more "active"?
4. Speaking of the State Fair Balloon...When the playfield is lifted, is the game supposed to rest on that? Seems strange...
5. The little metal slot coming through the apron next to the State Fair Balloon - what's the purpose of it? It seems to cause ball stick issues once in a while.
6. At the top of the playfield where the glass contacts the back of the trim, there's that black clasp running all the way across. That makes it super hard to push the glass up. Does that get easier over time? I don't want to break my glass.
Otherwise, I've not had any real issues with the game. Is the Castle Playfield supposed to have what feels like a really weak flipper? It would make sense given that you're so close to the parts and it.


Some answers (I don't have all -- new owner myself): you can individually control the strength to every coil. So, increase the state fair balloon a bit. I also increased the flipper on the castle play field to register more hits on the targets. As for the glass, I find that if I gently press the top of the glass down by the black clasp while I slide it in that extra half inch, it goes in without a problem. I have a hum from the speakers when the LEDs shine bright in attract mode. I'm assuming it is normal.

#1205 5 years ago
Quoted from JIM_Z:

Spots are tied into the existing spots. All parts purchased from JJP, 12 volt LEDs came with the spots.

So, is there an already existing connector that these plug into, or is it more complicated than that to set them up? I'm not sure what it means that they hook up to existing spots.

#1208 5 years ago
Quoted from JIM_Z:

No connector. You can make a connector or use standard electrical connectors. You will be connecting the new spot wires to the 12 volt wires for the existing spots.

Forgive my electrical ignorance: does this mean cutting the wires and splicing two sets of wires off of it -- the ones for the existing spots and the ones for the new spots? I've never done this before.

Quoted from nicoga3000:

I talked to Ken at JJP - he suggested using the unused 12v connectors by the State Fair Balloon.

So, does that mean no cutting of wires, just plugging?

#1219 5 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

Not 100% sure, but here's the exact response I got:
"The lighting system in the WOZ is separate from the spotlights and runs on 7.5 volts and communicates through digital data cables so it is not a good idea to wire anything to the GIs. 
Your best bet would be to run the wires over to the unused 12 volt spotlight connector near the ballon bumper."

I'm feeling blind because I can't seem to find that unused connector. Are you going to do that? If so, I might wait and copy off of you, especially if you take some good pictures (hint, hint).

Quoted from nicoga3000:

Any tips on removing the castle playfield? Trying to install these protectors and can't figure out how to get under it.

Aren't there detailed instructions in the game manual? I seem to remember that, though I don't have the manual in front of me at the moment.

#1223 5 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

I'll keep trying. As long as I'm not going to totally ruin some assembly...Never had this problem on any of the other games I've owned. Could just be that this playfield is so much more packed that it contributes to the issue.

Just making sure, but did you remove the two pieces of packing foam at the back end of the playfield? The first time I took it out, I couldn't get it back in until I realized there was packing foam glued on back there.

#1226 5 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I had to remove the packing foam too, so bizarre , but then maybe not?

Thinking about it, it probably makes the whole game really secure for shipment. I just think there should have been a note about it. It would have saved me a couple of minutes of frustration trying to push the playfield back in and wondering why it wasn't going.

#1232 5 years ago

I have a couple more questions:

1. How easy is it for you to collect on the HOADC shot? I keep thinking I hit it, but the ball keeps bouncing back without going in. I didn't expect to have such a hard time. I own a Star Trek Pro which has a similar under the upper flipper shot, and I can hit it relatively consistently. Looking at that shot and comparing it to WoZ, the two shots are different in the sense that in WoZ, the ball hits the wire ball guide at nearly a 90 degree angle, whereas in Star Trek, the angle of the area where the ball hits is much different, seemingly making it more conducive to falling back into the shooter lane. Anyway, do others have a hard time with this shot, and are there any tips?

2. My ruby slipper on the right flipper broke in half and fell off again. I put in a ticket request yesterday, and Lloyd responded today saying he would forward it to parts to take care of. Kudos for the great customer service! I never expected a response on a Sunday. Now that I have to take the flipper bat out, I'm thinking of putting super bands on. I don't have them on my other games, but I'm having a really difficult time getting the ball under control on WoZ. The flipper angle is a bit more shallow, I think. What is the consensus of super bands with this game? Also, what colors do you think would look good?

#1245 5 years ago
Quoted from Manimal:

There was a note in mine that clearly stated to remove the packing foam before operating the game

I'm sure this was my bad and that there was a note like that. I don't recall it specifically pointing to the foam in the back of the playfield, but I may have missed it. It was not visible from the game. Anyway, all is well.

#1246 5 years ago

Thanks, Chosen_S about the advice on super bands.

Can I bump up this question:

Quoted from Nokoro:

1. How easy is it for you to collect on the HOADC shot? I keep thinking I hit it, but the ball keeps bouncing back without going in. I didn't expect to have such a hard time. I own a Star Trek Pro which has a similar under the upper flipper shot, and I can hit it relatively consistently. Looking at that shot and comparing it to WoZ, the two shots are different in the sense that in WoZ, the ball hits the wire ball guide at nearly a 90 degree angle, whereas in Star Trek, the angle of the area where the ball hits is much different, seemingly making it more conducive to falling back into the shooter lane. Anyway, do others have a hard time with this shot, and are there any tips?

I'm really curious as to others experiences with this shot. Thanks!

#1249 5 years ago
Quoted from Jvspin:

Very difficult shot. I have more luck backhanding it from the right flipper.

Well, I'm glad its not just me. I've backhanded it with two balls on the right flipper, never with just one. Is that what you mean? During multiball?

Quoted from nicoga3000:

Either I've become a better player, or my game is just setup different. I had the hardest time with the Away Team shot on Star Trek, but the HOADC shot on my WOZ is nothing compared to that. I do use superbands, so that COULD have something to do with it? I make it almost every time I aim for it.

That's really strange because I could never understand why people complained about the Away Team shot. It was challenging, but I made it a good percentage of the time. The HOADC shot is like 1 in 10 for me. I just lowered the flipper coil power a bit, so maybe that will help. How do you like the superbands on WOZ?

#1265 5 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

I get a ball stuck issue right here on about 50% of my soft plunges. I have NO idea how as there's nothing to catch on. Anyone else?

Yes, I get that too, but not 50% of the time; just once in a while. It baffled me as well. Perhaps the balls are slightly magnetized. I bought some of the pinball life ultraglossy ones but haven't swapped them out yet. Usually, a stiff slap on the side of the cabinet does the trick.

Quoted from wtatumjr:

The way I understand it the monkey picks up the ball and deposits it in the correct place but the correct place isn't holding it. My WOZ is 120 miles away now but the way i remember the monkey releases the ball by cutting off the upper magnet. A lower magnet should activate to "catch" the ball. It sounds like your lower magnet is not activating. Mine did this because a screw on one of the monkey switches came out so make sure each of the upper and lower monkey switches have 2 screws in each. My whole switch would pivot causing the sequence to malfunction. Otherwise check with Frank or Loyd.

I'm not sure there is a lower magnet. At least I couldn't see one on mine. There is what appears to be a small rubber lip that would hold the ball and prevent it from falling onto the playfield. If the ball is not centered on the monkey, or if the monkey lets it go a split second too soon, I can see it falling. Isn't there a switch adjustment to make sure the monkey is fully retracted behind the castle doors, or am I making that up?

#1276 5 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

but starting Rescue MB is still confusing me. I haven't managed to do it yet. I don't fully understand how to.

Your inability to capture the ball because of the monkey switch is likely preventing you from starting Rescue MB. Fix that problem, and you'll have more success. It is one of the harder modes to start for me, but I've done it a number of times. Made it to the witch battle a few times as well, but still haven't melted her. Really fun game! Still trying to figure out everything myself.

#1277 5 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Need a little help on gameplay too
I've been getting to fireball frenzy and have no idea where to shoot, it seems I shoot for the blinking lights and I complete the shot, but nothing happens to award the shot??
How do I complete FF?

I believe you have to shoot for the blue shot which moves around. Hitting the flashing red shots causes the witch to shoot a fireball at you. Three fireballs and you are out. So you want to avoid those shots. At least, I believe that is right. . . .

#1303 5 years ago

Just had my best game since getting WOZ! 470,000 points (not as good as the rest of you, but hey I'm an average player). Finally got a jewel for starting Haunted multiball. I had no idea what I was doing during it. It probably didn't help that I also started ECMB and Crystal Ball weak flippers at the same time. Man, what a rush and a blast!

#1308 5 years ago

Nicoga, I wonder if the downstream LED boards are getting a bad signal. Since all of them are out, perhaps it is a bad connection on the first board in the chain. The manual can help you identify which one that is. Reseat the connectors. If that doesn't work, I would contact JJP Tech Support.

#1309 5 years ago

I just installed Titan translucent rings on my slingshots. Wow! They look fantastic! The light completely shines through which enhances the lighting effects for all the modes. Highly recommended.

#1318 5 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

Anyone have any tips for wiping down the playfield and waxing? I've got just under 100 games on it and want to wipe things down this weekend when I install my Cliffy's. I don't like having to take everything off for a cleaning. There's a lot of nooks and crannies on this game. I know it seems like a silly question, but it's something I tend to struggle with on every game I own. Everyone says "wax your playfield" and "wipe it down with Novus 1" regularly. I do that, but I'm never sure if I'm getting enough of the field. With plastics, mechanisms, and hidden spots galore, this pin is giving me the most anxiety when it comes to a good cleaning!

I'm going to be doing the same thing this weekend. I want to install the Munchkinland playfield protector. Then, I want to wax. I've held off waxing for now because I didn't want the ball flying around like crazy -- which usually happens for the first 30+ games after waxing -- while that playfield was unprotected.

I don't take things apart to wax. I just get the areas that are accessible. I think this is most people's approach from what I have gathered, unless they are doing a full shop. One thing I have found useful, however, is to cut a bit off of a Swiffer pad and duct tape it to the end of a plastic or wooden rod, making a nice padded tip. I spray the end with Novus 1 and then gently run it up and down hard to reach areas and lanes, like the opening to orbits. It doesn't go all the way, but you can get a bit more cleaning done that way.

#1320 5 years ago

I just took another look at the playfield. It doesn't seem like it would be too bad to wax. Most of the playfield is wide open. The mini playfields seem accessible enough. The only parts that aren't accessible are the orbit -- which you don't really see anyway -- and the area near the OZ lanes. As for the area near the OZ lanes, I'm going to try to wax if I can, but if not, I'm not sure it is a big deal. That area doesn't get a lot of action, and the coil there is fairly low power so the ball seems pretty gentle when it bounces around. Not like an area near pops or slings where there is a lot of fast action.

One question for everyone: How do you wax around the rollovers? Do you just wax over them as if they were a part of the playfield, or do you just go up to the edge as best you can? It would seem like an area where wax can accumulate.

#1322 5 years ago

I removed the munchkinland playfield and installed the cliffy protector this morning. It was . . . difficult, but successful. I'm always surprised when I do something like this that the machine still works afterwards. . . .

#1323 5 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I'm always surprised when I do something like this that the machine still works afterwards. . . .

I spoke too soon. Hitting the left flipper button caused a flutter of white lights across the rainbow targets and several of the inserts. It gradually got worse and worse. Fiddling under the playfield seemed to fix the problem, but only temporarily. Diagnosing the issue, I discovered that if pressed the button just slightly so that the left flipper would trigger but not the munchkinland flipper, then the issue would not happen. So, it was being triggered by the munchkinland flipper. Eventually, I noticed that some of the wires to the lightboards go right past that flipper on the underside of the playfield. Those lightboards are early in the chain and can affect everything. I moved the wires out of the way of the flipper, thinking they must have gotten in the way while I was reassembling the playfield, and reseated the connectors. I've played 3 games, and it seems to be working. I'm going to keep my fingers crossed. This is turning out to be a stressful day.

#1331 5 years ago
Quoted from clg:

Your fix sounds correct fingers crossed it will be fine!

Thanks. Yes, I've played several more games, and it seems to be solved.

I'm having another problem resulting from the installation of the cliffy munchkinland protector. Now, when I plunge, about 50% or more of the time, the ball won't make it around to the pops. I've watched it carefully, and believe it is catching the right most edge of the cliffy protector, where it hangs over into the shooter lane. This rattles the ball and slows it considerably. Has anyone else experienced this, and what did you do? I'm thinking of loosening the three screws that hold the munchkinland playfield down by a few turns to see if that will raise it enough so that it is out of the way.

#1335 5 years ago

Thanks dmacy. Your pictures are spot on. That is exactly the trouble area. I think I just increased the reliability of the plunge to 80%, which is frankly where it was before I put the cliffy on. I loosened the 3 munchkinland hex screws by a few turns. I also noticed that the forked metal ramp in the shooter lane (I'm not sure what it is called) had a very steep angle at the beginning. I loosened the two screws and slid the two fork ends a bit to the right. After doing both things, I had several perfect plunges in a row, and I don't think I ever had a perfect plunge before that didn't feel just a slight bit sluggish. I still have a few balls that get hung up in that lane, but I can live with that. If it gets worse, I may try your suggestion about spacers, but I am in no mood to take that playfield off again anytime soon.

#1336 5 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

Getting the Munchkin playfield out was a breeze compared to the damn Winkie VUK.

And that's why I won't be doing that.

#1353 5 years ago
Quoted from Tigixx:

I love this machine. My son from Seattle just came and played it for the first time this last week and now its game on to see who gets the highest score !

That's great. I wish I had someone in my house to compete against, but my family doesn't play that much and when they do, unfortunately, they don't get on the board. So, I just have to compete against the factory default high scores.

Quoted from craigj:

I'm very close to purchasing a new ruby red. These things are priced a little out of my comfort zone but this is the closest I've come to pulling the trigger. Thoughts? We are more of a one pin house, trying to make it count. I was told there are not many left new.

Call some distributors. I bet there are a bunch of RR's still out there. It is a great game. Very different than anything else I've played. I also think it will likely hold its value quite well so if you ever grow tired of it, you can sell, buy a Stern, and have money left over.

#1354 5 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Horse of a different color shot behind the upper right flipper. Hit that when you have a full stable of all different colored horses or all the same color and it's a "win". A win gets you 0.5 added to the multiplier for munchkin modes. It's applied during bonus.

I thought a loss added 0.5 to the multiplier while a win added +1. Am I wrong?

#1358 5 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

A loss adds nothing...it might even drop you 0.5, but it never goes below 1.

Well then I'm never going for that shot unless I have a win lined up. It is too dangerous. Thanks.

#1364 5 years ago
Quoted from Troz:

Learn the shot, you can get MONSTER bonuses if you get good at it.

The shot is so tight on mine, I almost never make it, like only a 5% success rate, unless I backhand it with two balls on the right flipper. Sometimes, I think I make it only to have the ball bounce back out or get pinched between the flipper and the lane.

#1368 5 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

Also, I think I need to start trying to control my multiballs more. My current approach is basically controlled chaos - shoot shots while the balls are going bonkers. I need to learn to trap up and take my time.

For me, trapping during multiball is extremely difficult on WOZ. The angle of the flippers is much shallower than my other two pins, and the balls seem to roll right off. The good thing, though, is that when I do trap and shoot just one ball at a time, I find getting control over that one ball again without draining is manageable.

#1369 5 years ago

In case anyone missed it, WOZ was featured on the Sci channel on Machines: How They Work. You can find it on demand. Nice computer renderings of exploded views of the game.

#1371 5 years ago

I just had the most amazing game! Somehow I stacked munchkin frenzy, rescue MB, emerald city MB, and crystal ball lights out. I got my munchkin award up to 260,000 points. I've never had that much from a munchkin mode. If I had tilted, I would have lost it all. I love how the game is coded to only award points for certain modes during the bonus. Completely makes you think twice about nudging when you have the points built up that high. This game is totally unique and thrilling (when it isn't beating the crap out of me).

#1389 5 years ago

I'm in Jamaica right now and have no desire to return. The only thing that remotely makes me want to come back is knowing that I get to play WOZ again.

#1393 5 years ago

So I've discovered the secret to high scores with me is to stack a munchkin mode with a crystal ball mode and, if possible, some multiball. I just got a 400,000+ point bonus which ended up being 80% of the points for my entire game.

#1394 5 years ago

Has anyone tried to do anything to hide the gap at the end of the munchkin huts where the lock ball arm comes out? I don't like staring at the mechanical guts and think it might be more aesthetic if I hung a small piece of black fabric, glued to the inside. Anyone try something similar?

#1398 5 years ago

Two questions:

1. I just noticed that the munchkin multiplier that you get from collecting HOADC doesn't carry over from ball to ball. Is there a way to change that in settings? I didn't see one.

2. Do people find the hurry ups to be lucrative in terms of points? I don't have time to watch the screen to see how many points I'm getting from them, but it doesn't seem like a lot.

#1401 5 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

1) Only good for that ball...no carry-over. Not sure why you'd want it as it would be too powerful.

I agree it could be too powerful. At the same time, I have only been able to cash in on the munchkin multiplier once, though it was a biggie, netting a total of 400,000+ points in the bonus. The difficulty of making the HOADC shot for me made me want to preserve my bonus multiplier when I get it. At least the number of horses carries over.

#1403 5 years ago

I installed the Titan silicon rings on the main flippers. I feel like I have a lot more control and am better able to trap the ball. They also look a heck of a lot better than the stock rubbers which always seemed dusty.

#1405 5 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

Supers or Titans on all flippers. That's the way to go.

Yep. All other flippers have been switched. Getting the Titans on the mini flipper was a royal pain.

#1408 5 years ago

My lock ball arm is getting close to releasing two balls at once. I saw a setting for controlling the timing of that arm. Am I right that I should lower the timing slightly? Is there any other adjustment to help with this?

#1410 5 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

Yeah - the ball lock release timer setting has something to do with that. I just adjust it down a few ms, play a few games, and make additional adjustments as I see fit. What's crazy is that it will work fine for 5 games or so, and then the next game it will release 2 balls at once. All about getting that sweet spot.


#1413 5 years ago

I have to say that properly leveling this pin makes a huge difference. I was at 5.9 degrees while maxing out the height of the back leg levelers due to the slope of my floor and carpeting. Another pinsider suggested I move the location of the nut on the front leg levelers from being between the leg leveler and the leg to being behind the leg. I now have the pitch up to 6.3 degrees and the game plays a lot faster and smoother. Problems I was having with inconsistent plunges seem to have lessened. And, slow balls that got diverted by mylar or roll over targets also have lessened. I know there are some critiques of JJP pins as being too slow and floaty, but I really don't think that is the case once properly leveled. My game now plays plenty fast, and the multiballs are even more insane.

#1425 5 years ago

Ugh! I was in the wicked witch battle, thinking now is the time I'm finally going to melt the witch, when one of my balls got stuck between the drop target and the plastic protector above it. The target kept bouncing up and down rapidly, keeping the ball trapped. It wouldn't stop. I was afraid I was going to break something, so I quickly opened the coin door to cut the power to the coils. I closed it quickly, but it was too late. Double drain!

Is there a setting for coin door ball save? I didn't see one in the menus.

#1432 5 years ago

An observation and a question:

Observation: If extra ball is lit, and you are playing There's No Place Like Home, hitting the saucer will still award the extra ball. I wouldn't have expected that.

Question: When is the munchkin multiplier (given by collecting HOADC) applied? During the bonus award at the end of the ball when the munchkin points are applied, or only during the munchkin mode itself? In other words, let's say I start Munchkin Frenzy without a multiplier, and I score 10,000 points. Then I get the multiplier for 1.5x. I then start Munchkin lullaby and score 10,000 points. During the bonus round, will I receive 30,000 points (1.5x 20,000), or will I just receive 20,000 points because the multiplier was only applied during Munchkin Lullaby, and the points took that multiplier into account?

#1434 5 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Munchkin mode points are awarded during bonus count, including multipliers.

So I don't need the multiplier while I'm playing the mode, is that right? I just need it before I lose the ball?

#1445 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Munchkin mode points are awarded during bonus count, including multipliers.

Ok, I'm still confused about this. Let's say I play Lollipop Lullaby and get 10,000 points. I have a Munchkin multiplier of 1.5x. At the end of ball bonus screen it will say:

Lollipop Lullaby 10,000
Munchkin Multiplier 1.5x 10,000

So, in both cases, it says 10,000 points. I should get 15,000 points. Perhaps that is calculated and not shown except in the total? If so, what is the meaning of showing "Munchkin Multiplier 1.5x 10,000"?

#1447 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

That's how it's always been. Keith explained it once somewhere...it is confusing, but the multiplier is actually applied first.

It's too bad it is not more straight forward. I normally like seeing my base score and how it gets multiplied. It makes me feel good. Here, I just feel confused.

#1450 4 years ago
Quoted from Eryeal:

Perhaps it just means this:
You have the Lollipop Lullaby bonus of 10,000. The Munchkin Multiplier is at 1.5x, so therefore you are getting 1.5x 10,000 points. So it doesn't mean there are two 10,000 bonuses. Perhaps it was done this way in the event of another bonus so they get added together? For instance:
Lollipop Lullaby 10,000
Dorothy's Diapers 7,000
Munchkin Multiplier 1.5x 17,000

That may be. Though, you would think it would be "Total 17,000" instead of "Munchkin Multiplier 1.5x 17,000".

And, Dorothy's Diapers isn't being implemented until 7.0 code.

#1454 4 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Quick question from a soon to be buyer. Does the game have ball saver? I have a 6yr old that loves playing but isnt a good player yet. I read the game didnt have ball saver but not sure if they coded it in yet. Thanks!

Yes, but you have to set it. I believe the default is no saver.

#1463 4 years ago

I have to hand it to Keith. The way he programmed the outlanes to grow 10 times in size every time I make it to the witch battle is sheer genius.

#1476 4 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Tracking our WOZ as it slowly makes its way across the US. Hopefully will arrive before the weekend otherwise it will be a loooong weekend lol. I have been keeping myself occupied by working on a couple of my project pins that I need to get out of the way.
Any reccomentations for items to check before first power up?

Congrats! Loose connections and screws, as well as switches that need to be adjusted, seem to be pretty common out of the box. Mine had a few. Some may be obvious and others will reveal themselves as you play.

#1480 4 years ago

I noticed that sometimes when I'm done playing, I just sit there and stare at the machine. The thing is beautiful. So much to take in.

#1482 4 years ago
Quoted from Vexx_182:

Also turned on my machine today and the screen ran fine but none of the lights on the play field were working. I gave it a few minutes but still nothing so i turned off the machine and turned it back on and wha lah everything worked again. Anyone else had this happen? If so is it just a common glitch or something to look into further. My WoZ only had 150 Plays on it when i bought it so i wouldn't think it would be anything electrical with it being almost mint.

It's happened to me twice. I have a ticket in about it, but no answer yet. It is very uncommon in my experience, but I guess I'm not alone.

#1493 4 years ago

What do the two witch light inserts in front of the witch mean? Sometimes they are both green; sometimes one is green; sometimes one is orange; sometimes one is orange and the other is flashing. . . . I may have this a bit mixed up, but can anyone explain the different configurations? Thanks!

#1498 4 years ago

Thanks for the responses. I'm pretty sure I've seen one witch insert orange and the other green so not sure what that means. I'll pay closer attention. It is not intuitive certainly.

#1500 4 years ago

I've figured out the witch inserts:

Orange = witch skill shot is ready
One flashing white = two shots away from starting witch hurry up
Two flashing white = one shot away from starting witch hurry up
One green = one hurry up completed
Two green = two hurry ups completed
Two green plus fireball = fireball frenzy ready

You can have combinations of the above. So if one is orange and the other one is green, it means skill shot ready and you have completed two hurry ups. If one is green and two are flashing white, it means one hurry up completed and one more shot to start the next hurry up.

At least, I'm pretty sure that's it.

#1501 4 years ago

Finally melted the witch! So cool!

#1515 4 years ago

Finally beat the default GC score with a score of 704,453! My highest yet! (Take that JJP!!! ) I'm really starting to get a feel for the game and how to combine all the modes. Awesome fun!

#1520 4 years ago
Quoted from Vexx_182:

My castle door switches seem to be registering while my ball is in play down on the main play field. Ill be playing my game and then all of the sudden i hear the crack of the axe for the castle doors and the winkie music comes on along with the blacked out rescue letters up on the screen for about 2 seconds and then in goes back to normal play. Any ideas what may be causing this? Running the most current 6.06 Version of the software.

Sounds like the switch is too closely gapped and being triggered by vibration. I haven't examined that switch to know what kind it is, but most of the switches are adjustable. Not sure if you will have to remove the upper playfield to get at it.

To test this, put the game in switch test mode and bang around the playfield, both regular and upper, to see if vibration causes it to trigger.

#1523 4 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

My monkey started dropping the ball and I noticed that it was snagging on the door today. After looking around here I tried adding washers to the door but that actually caused the door to deflect more into the monkey, I next tried loosening the upper playfield and nudging it but still couldn't get enough clearance (also I think I may be missing a screw there)
Anyway the solution i came up with was super easy and since I have not already seen it I thought I would share. I noticed that the door stops against a rail back there where the monkey drops the ball. All i had to so was add one of those stick on pads to the back of the door positioned so that the pad would rest against the rail. Presto! Plenty of clearance now.

Great! I thought about doing something like that myself. Does the door stick out too much now?

#1532 4 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Not really alhough a thinner pad would be ideal I figure it will edentually wear/compress. From the players position it is not at all noticable. The second picture is actually the door with the pad in place.... Wait, no this is the picture with the pad in place.

I just did this with a tiny piece of weather stripping. Seems to compress down to an ideal thickness. The monkey moves back and forth smoothly, and the door looks completely normal from the player's position.

1 week later
#1569 4 years ago

I'm thinking about getting a new shooter rod for my Ruby Red WOZ. I have a chrome housing and a black knob that came with it. Has anyone installed the Modfather rods? What do you think? I like the ones for the RR WOZ, but some of the other ones with the swirls are cool too. Has anyone experimented with other rods? Also, is there any other vendor who sells rods like that?

#1571 4 years ago
Quoted from BladeFury:

Yes all his mods are awesome and he is a great guy also to boot! Got a bunch of his mods and Shooter rod on my WOZECLE!! Don't hesitate to ask him questions.

Cool. Did you get the larger knob on the rod or the smaller one?

#1576 4 years ago

That looks great! Larger may be the way to go for me.

#1595 4 years ago
Quoted from wyopin:

The rr also came with the printed manual...not a game changer, but handy when you need to troubleshoot something

It is a beautiful manual. A really nice bonus.

#1609 4 years ago

I installed the munchkinland cliffy because of what others said. I've looked at it a few times since installation, and it's definitely taken some hits from the ball. So, I agree that it is pretty necessary.

#1610 4 years ago

Just had an awesome game where everything went right! Melted the witch. Completed ECMB. Started Haunted Forest Multiball with ECMB and with 2x crystal ball scoring all stacked together. Ultimately, I got a score of 965,563, my highest to date. I wish I could have pushed it over the edge to 1,000,000, but not today.

All in all, even though I play a 3 ball game, I had 6 balls with the extra balls that were awarded to me. Just curious how many people play 3 ball vs. 5 ball games. I've heard a lot of people do 5 balls, but I think if I did that, my best games would last perhaps too long. I don't consider myself a great player, but once I get to know a table, I usually have a decent number of good games that can last a while.

#1615 4 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

I set mine to three ball and set the special to add a ball as well. I'm curious though, of the people who really enjoy the game, how many plays do you have in so far?
After about a month between the wife and I (and occasional friends) were already close to 1000 plays. I was suprised at a ECLE being sold with under 500 plays that had been passed around to a couple people already. My only thought was maybe they really didn't like it, but then folks were suprissed at how many we racked up on ours to date.
So home game fans of WOZ... How many plays do you have? Am I just obsessed? I still try to play my other pins sometimes but they just don't have the same magic at the moment.

I have a lot of plays. You are not obsessed. I don't have a lot of pins, so when I get a new one, I play the heck out of it, and then things slow down over time.

#1621 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Touched up the scrapes on the inner sidewalls with a sharpie and finger rubs.

That's an interesting idea. Can you describe more? It worked out ok?

#1626 4 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

My WOZ was built about 7 months ago. The only light issue I have experienced is two random times on bootup the lights didn't come on at all. I figured the PC just didn't recognize a driver or something as after a reboot all was good again. We regularly have ours on about 4-5 hours at a time.

I put in a ticket about this. Vic suggested I move the USB connections in the back of the metal box to other slots. I need to do that this weekend. I've only had this happen a few times, like you.

#1639 4 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Question on flipper rubbers, do most keep the stock black rubbers or have you switched to something else? If something else what are you using and how do you like it?

I switched to Titan silicon flipper rubbers. They look great, are much cleaner, and handle quite well.

#1641 4 years ago
Quoted from shiffdog:

Same here - a worthwhile (and inexpensive) upgrade in my opinion. I switched out all five flipper rubbers, post sleeves and all of the easily accessible rubber rings. Started with yellow on the main flippers but then decided red looked better with the ruby slippers.

Nice. If not too much trouble, I'd be interested in seeing a picture of it with the red flipper rubbers. I kept the colors the same but did swap out all the flippers. I also put clear Titan rubbers on the slings which look amazing.

#1661 4 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Interesting, maybe I should have ordered two sets then. I guess I'll see how they hold up, hard to see it being worse than my slipper on a black flipper which only lasted a month.
Maybe if the right one breaks too I will epoxy the slippers back together on top of red flippers.

My right one came off within a few days. I super glued it back on, and it broke in half after a week. JJP sent me a new one. They said they had a bad batch of slippers which weren't flush and didn't adhere well. The new one has held up so far. Knock on wood.

Count me in the group that likes the slippers. It was a little hard getting used to, but now I can't imagine the game without them.

#1672 4 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

And here is the titan competition red ring on WOZ.

That looks great! I may have to do that. Thanks for posting.

#1673 4 years ago

Ok, really strange request here, but can someone try this for me: Start ECMB. While the balls are bouncing around, open the coin door and go into test mode. The game will end and the balls will drain. You can go through the menus for a few seconds. Then, exit test mode and go back into game mode. Look at your "Lock" LED right before the ramp. Is it working?

Don't worry if it isn't. Just turn off the pin, wait 10 seconds, and turn it back on again. It will work again.

I want to know if this is just me.

First one to try and report back gets entered into a drawing to win an all expense paid trip to Kansas! (Expenses not included.)

#1681 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Ok, really strange request here, but can someone try this for me: Start ECMB. While the balls are bouncing around, open the coin door and go into test mode. The game will end and the balls will drain. You can go through the menus for a few seconds. Then, exit test mode and go back into game mode. Look at your "Lock" LED right before the ramp. Is it working?
Don't worry if it isn't. Just turn off the pin, wait 10 seconds, and turn it back on again. It will work again.
I want to know if this is just me.
First one to try and report back gets entered into a drawing to win an all expense paid trip to Kansas! (Expenses not included.)

Bump for this. I'm really curious if this happens to others. Would someone be able to do me a favor and try this with the glass off? Thanks!

#1693 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Variations in power affect game play a lot.
I have 4 games on one 20 amp breaker. I have them all set so that they play pretty good when all are turned on at the same time.
If I fire up only one game, like the WOZ or TH they play way too strong and fast.
Other than screw up all my settings, I just turn on all the games and the problem is solved.
Also sometime all the games play super fast and strong, when running at the same time.
This has to do with the available current on my street at any given time.
I have a 200 amp line to my house but I think once in awhile its less than that.

I believe WOZ is very sensitive to variations in voltage. My AC seems to have an effect on WOZ while not affecting other pins:


#1703 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

After I started using the P21S, I havent looked at anything else. It puts down the thinnest layer of wax and I love the lack of white dust and that it leaves an incredible shine that lasts.

I have Blitz wax. How does P21S compare to Blitz?

#1704 4 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Just got the mylar kit from JJP sent to me, they also sent those decals for the PF. Just thinking, should I just put down the decal in the state fair balloon area, for extra protection? I plan to own the game 10 years until the kids are off to college. My game is only 2 weeks old, the playfield is perfect. I haven't stuck down the mylar yet, just wondering if I should bother with those 3 additional stickers they sent. One is for the tree pops area, one is for the winkie target and one is for the balloon area, also have the mylar for all those areas too. Any thoughts?

Aren't the decals for people who have the old playfields that showed early signs of wear? I wouldn't think you would want to use them at all unless you actually get wear. I would just use the mylar if it is not already on there.

#1727 4 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Has anyone developed a reliable method of hitting the"b" in ball?

Yes, get the ball into the slings and hope for the best.

In other words, no.

#1733 4 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I might be joining the club soon. Can someone that owns a Ruby Red measure the distance from the floor to the top of the topper for me please? I have a lower ceiling in the basement and want to see if the topper will fit. Thanks!

My topper doesn't fit but the game is awesome anyway.

#1746 4 years ago

Hang in there, Jakers. A lot of us have had issues out of the box. JJP support is great. You'll get your game fully operational soon.

#1755 4 years ago
Quoted from wtatumjr:

I get the Forth of July lights when I hit either flipper. Is it possible to narrow down which connection is
loose by shutting down a single board in the software and seeing if the problem goes away?

I got that for the RAINBOW lights when I hit the left flipper. Eventually figured out that when I removed and put back in my munchkinland playfield, I shoved the wires back in such that they were touching the munchkinland flipper shaft. I moved them out of the way and solved the problem.

#1757 4 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Also, I tested the witch house legs coil and it only pops the legs out halfway. Is there a way to adjust this?

Fortunately, this one is easy. Watch this video:

#1770 4 years ago

Yes, you can order directly from Cliffy, and he has great customer service.

#1796 4 years ago

When you have a non-pinhead over to play some games, how do you describe what to do in WOZ? I love the rules, but they are so complex that I have a hard time describing even short term goals to a newbie. I'm left with wait until you see lock lit and then hit the ball up the ramp; do that three times to start multiball.

#1802 4 years ago

Thanks all. All good ideas. I especially like your approach merccat.

One thought I had was to tell people to hit the rainbow targets (an easy enough goal) until Twister is qualified and then shoot the ramp. If the lock becomes lit, then they are on their way to ECMB. Otherwise, they can try for a munchkin mode.

#1805 4 years ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

Wish I just had walked away last night before I got so frustrated! I should know by know not to work on pins late at night and when tired of trying to get one stubborn problem fixed!

Ha! I've made that mistake before. From now on, I don't work on pins at night or before vacations.

#1814 4 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I'm getting balls stuck on the upper shooter lane mylar when I soft plunge. It happened to me 3 times during a game the other night and it really breaks the flow of the game. Any advice other than raise the angle of the play field? The only thing I can think of is to cut away some of the mylar that's at the exit of the OZ lanes so gravity can easily take the ball back into the right orbit.

Also try replacing the stock balls with pinballlife oh so shiny ones. I thought my JJP balls were getting slightly magnetized which was contributing to the ball getting hung up in that area. Switching seemed to help. The oh so shiny ones don't get magnetized and look great.

#1833 4 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Thanks LTG. I'll adjust that next time I have the playfield up.
While I was working on WOZ today I decided to fix my munchkin cliffy. Ever since installed, about 50% of the time the ball would hit the edge of the cliffy on its way up the shooter lane and not even make it to the lanes. I took a dremel and shaped the edge. The ball never hits the edge anymore and I can reliable plunge for those skill shots. Just thought I would share.

Interesting. I was having a similar issue but solved it by loosening the screws holding the munchkinland playfield down a few rotations. That raises the playfield and allowed the balls to clear better.

#1838 4 years ago
Quoted from chet218:

I just got a WOZ last week, what an Amazing game. Whenever I played one on location I thought it looked great but was just "kind of fun". I always wanted to get one anyhow because of how it looked and a persons thoughts on a game can change once they understand the rules. I'm so glad I did. I have owned LOTR and currently own TSPP, I think Keith did an incredible job on the rules for WOZ. I love the modes, the light shows that go along with them, and just the different types of modes thrown in "no hold flippers, weak flippers, etc".

Totally agree. WOZ is a difficult game to get a feel for on location. It definitely is something to be appreciated in a home setting. I'm wondering if Hobbit is the same way. I only played it a couple of times on location, but I could tell that there was so much complexity to it that I would probably need 50+ games to really start to understand it.

1 week later
#1852 4 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

My best game to date... Got flipper frenzy, haunted multiball and 3 munchkin modes...
At one point had the following stacked: munckin mode, ECMC, Crystal ball, Haunted Multiball, and Rescue Multiball.
Still didn't melt the stinkin witch tho.

Nice! What was your score?

#1854 4 years ago

1 week later
#1866 4 years ago
Quoted from agodfrey:

I dig. Maybe white or red text with a black stroke for legibility

Agreed. Looks great but hard to read.

#1874 4 years ago

Much better to read. I love the ruby background too.

I second the notion that you should mention how to capture Dorothy -- both the monkey targets and the orbit shot for the magnet.

I also think when you say "spot character switches" you should add "... to light locks".

#1876 4 years ago


It's a testament to the complexity and depth of the game how hard it is to get everything on one sheet. And, you didn't even touch the haunted modes. I think you did a nice job balancing what you could fit and what new players would want to know.

#1881 4 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Is the lighting kit still needed on ruby red editions? Thought jjp fixed that, no?

I have a Ruby Red. It is dark like the rest. I got one of those cheap standing lamps with three adjustable lights. I have all three lights adjusted so they shine from the edge of my room onto the playfield. I turn them on when I'm playing WOZ and turn them off when playing other pins. Works really well if you don't want to trouble yourself with the light kit.

#1882 4 years ago

Chosen_S, wow! The white font is even better.

#1890 4 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

At what point during the game are the Witch's legs supposed to be revealed under the house?

When you make enough lops to start a munchkin mode, the ball drops through the hole, is held by the magnet, and the legs come down. The mode then starts.

#1891 4 years ago

I've had an issue that reoccurs every once in a while. When the ball exits the munchkinland playfield, instead of landing right on the magnet, sometimes it hops a bit to the left and out of reach of the flipper. It has happened to me a couple of times when I was about to melt the witch, and that was really frustrating. It also happened to me a couple of times when I completed There's No Place Like Home. It seems to happen more when the ball is rolling slowly down the playfield, having just been diverted from the ramp, rather than on completing a fast loop and then exiting.

Anyone else experience this, and is there an adjustment to be made to correct it?

#1898 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The angle of the mini PF needs adjustment. Check the mounting screws for tightness or obstrutions, especially if you have removed it to install cliffy protector.
You can also add a washer to the rainbow side stand-offs to angle it better towards the hole.
Also check your left to right (horizontal?) main playfield level.

Thanks. That may be it. I raised the right side a bit because the ball was hitting the cliffy on the plunge. I guess I have to find the right balance between leveling the munchkinland playfield and not having the ball hit that edge too much.

#1899 4 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I'm having a random lighting issue. 2 times in the past week, when I power on the game ALL of the insert lights do not work. A power cycle fixed the problem both times but is this something I should be concerned with?
On another note.....THIS FINALLY HAPPENED!

This happens from time to time but shouldn't happen that often. JJP advised me to move around the placement of the USB plugs in the back of the box under the playfield. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it unless it keeps happening at a high frequency.

#1904 4 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Thanks Nokoro. I'll move around the USBs when I get home.

Ironically, after I posted this, it happened to me again. I only moved two of the four USB plugs since the other two didn't have enough slack. I guess I'll have to cut some zip ties and move the other two to see if that takes care of the issue.

#1907 4 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Good luck but I'm thinking Pinballinreno may be onto something witch checking for low available current at the outlet. To me unless you have a usb controller dying on the motherboard or have dirty contacts moving a usb plug shouldn't have any significant difference (maybe the same performance boost your car gets from attaching an edlebroc sticker on the window).
However if current is low, perhaps at the moment the PC is doing its peripheral search/driver load, the device in question (light controller in this case) has not yet gotten to the point where it can return a ready response to the PC.
I would try powering up for a while when WOZ is the only thing drawing power from the circuit and see if that helps. Also may want to remove any extension cords or power strips from the circuit. My WOZ is plugged into a surge protector directly mounted to the outlet.

The problem with diagnosing this issue is that it only happens once every 1-2 months. It really isn't that big a deal. The next time it happens, I'm just going to play a game with all of the lights not working. It will probably be my best game yet.

#1908 4 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Free to all, enjoy
If anyone wants a specific size please let me know

How is everyone planning on printing these posters? I have a crappy ink jet printer, and the colors always look terrible. Perhaps it could be sent to digital picture lab to get a high quality print on photo paper . . . .

#1928 4 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Hey guys, considering a woz but not sure which version. Price tags on all 3 are pretty hefty nib; with standards seeming to be the most reasonable vs used wozle's. Insight is appreciated and i havent seen a standard in person, but Are there many (any?) Differences between the standard and newer run ECLE's besides green armor, topper, and limited edition plaque?

Keep in mind that a standard won't have invisiglass or a shaker unless they were added. Those are two really good additions. I have a Ruby Red. I love the extra bling, but the gameplay is exactly the same.

1 week later
#1977 4 years ago

Congrats to all the new WOZ owners! You guys are going to love it!

#1996 4 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Any tips for adjusting the witch target?
It is becoming nearly impossible to register a hit, even with a solid shot. When I went into test mode i could easily activate both switches when pushing on the lower half but holding it square in so the switch was all the way back squarely against the rubber pads would not activate either. Pushing a ball against the switch, it would only activate on the very edges.
Those switches look to be a bit burried in there so I was wondering if anyone had any tips. Thanks!

It is easy to adjust. There is a screw or two to loosen, and it slides back and forth.

Quoted from agodfrey:

I'm about to order some wizard mist and spit shine what's the stuff I need for cleaning invisaglass?

Sparkle. It is purple.

#1997 4 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

I can adjust my Spinning House Witch's legs in the test mode - they work perfectly.
Unfortunately, they never work during a game when I start a Munchkin mode. I can see the door struggle, but it won't open.
I've tried increasing the coil strength to open the door (even though the door opened fine in test). I've also tried adjusting the house to be slightly off in test, thinking it would correct itself during an actual game. (I'm thinking the spin adjustment in test mode does not accurately reflect the final house position during a game.)
In any case, they just won't work during a game no matter how I try to adjust it in test.
Has anybody experienced this and/or know of a solution to get the feet to display properly during a game?

This has now started to happen to me, where the in game alignment of the witch's house does not match the alignment in the test. Mine used to work perfectly. Now, it is very hard to get it to work. It also seems as if each time the house spins, I get a different result. Could there be something on the motor that needs to be tightened to keep the alignment a bit better?

#1998 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

It is easy to adjust. There is a screw or two to loosen, and it slides back and forth.

By the way, here is a picture of the switches and the screws:


#2002 4 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Looks like the first lighting board from J101 works. All the others are flickering crazy colors. Ideas?

Unplug and then plug back in all the connectors to that board. One could be loose causing all the rest downstream to go crazy.

#2006 4 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

That was it. Thanks nokoro.
Ah the fun of owning a jjp game. At least it was a relatively simple fix

That's great! Those things can be pesky.

#2008 4 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

It's not clear when you say "each time the house spins I get a different result." Is that each time it spins in test, or each time during a game (without ever making an adjustment in settings)?
The only way to test it accurately for me was during a game, NOT during the test mode. It is now working consistently when I play.
Just disregard the test mode for the spinning house, and continue to tweak the numbers based on the end position of the house by manually starting a munchkin mode with the glass off in a real game.
Test mode ending-position just didn't match the actual ending-position when in a real game.
If your alignment is different every time during a game without ever making an adjustment in settings, then your problem is different and could be mechanical. Unfortunately, I am not aware of a mechanical motor adjustment.

Yeah, I did adjust it during actual game conditions. It worked for a bit, and then was off again. I'll keep playing with it. It does seem like each time it spins during a game it is in a slightly different position, which is why I was wondering if there was some mechanical adjustment.

#2015 4 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

This game is handing my ass today!! I'm running on complete factory settings minus some coil power adjustments. BUT....I finally hit a good game. Got to the melt the witch sequence, with bitchin lighting and red targets all around; what a bad ass mode! Eventually, there were no more red shots and I finally noticed the castle shot was lit. I made that and the game went nuts and I hit the replay but drained the other ball. correct me if I'm wrong, but is the next shot the ramp and then melt the witch?
Same game, I had a ton of modes running and think I completed emerald mb cause the music playing was the merry ol land of oz and I felt like I accomplished something. But I had lights on, munchkin mode, and emerald so had no idea what was going on.

Yes, to melt the witch, you first need 4 shots, red or white, but white shots will increase the jackpot. Then shoot the castle and lock a ball behind the drop target. Then hit the ramp with the other ball. It will divert to the munchkin playfield. Once it drops through the hole, hit the witch with the upper flipper. If you don't do it in time, the locked ball will release, and you will have to lock it again. If you make it, you get an awesome victory mode.

The craziness of stacked modes is fantastic in this game. Getting a MB going with a munchkin mode (preferably frenzy) and double scoring from the crystal ball can be awesome.

#2029 4 years ago

Cool idea for a contest. Of course, I believe factory settings means no ball save, is that right?

#2032 4 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

That is correct and no ball save is brutal! Love it lol

It sure is, especially when you plunge the ball into the pops, and the pops send the ball straight down the right outlane.

I must say, I love the pops in this game. It is one of those games where the randomness of them means something, and the ball doesn't just trickle out some predefined path.

#2039 4 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Here's my submission for tonight. Just shy of my GC score.

That's basically my GC score but with easier settings for me. Nice job!

#2057 4 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

I'd like to know too. I tried mine and the volume is VERY quiet. I couldn't find a setting for headphones volume but didn't look too hard either.

I had this problem too.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

There is a switch in the little circuit board on the coin door near the top upper left.
You can barely see it from the edge, use a flashlight.

And now I know why.

#2080 4 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

No but the Glinda target can award it randomly, perhaps you hit it when you missed the witch.

I was going to say the same thing, but I think the Glinda target only rewards one or two of the letters, not all. I would put the game in switch test mode and bang around the playfield near the targets to see if one or more is gapped too closely.

#2082 4 years ago
Quoted from clg:

Could be or he may have just got lucky and hit glinda and had a bounce and hit a few letters.

Maybe, but I think we better get to the bottom of this before he enters the contest. We don't want phantom points due to vibration skewing the results.

#2084 4 years ago

I just ordered the pindemption dongle. I had a few questions, so I called JJP and they put me in touch with Jack to my surprise. It was really nice of him to take time and answer my questions. Anyway, I want a way that I can play with guests where we can take turns and they don't have to wait 20 minutes for me to finish a ball if I'm having a good game. I think beginners will also appreciate a simplified rule set with defined goals, unlimited balls and a timer. It may even get my kids back into playing. Anyway, I'll report back when I get it and try it out.

#2095 4 years ago
Quoted from Troz:

When you get the multiplier up you can get insane bonuses:

Holy crap!

Quoted from Eskaybee:

I thought I'd be better at that shot cause of STLE, but it's a tough one.

I thought the same thing, but it is ten times harder than the ST shot. I too go for it if I have two balls cradled on the right flipper. I've been getting better at making the shot from the left flipper, but you have to be perfect. As noted, it can be really really lucrative. My best bonus has been 400,000+ points. I love how the award for munchkin and haunted modes are only awarded at bonus time so you have to be really careful not to tilt. Otherwise, you get a nice message of exactly how many points you just lost.

#2097 4 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Yea I've tilted quite a few times lol. I love the per game tilt rules! This game is much more brutal than I imagined. When I played on location it was 5 ball, light tilt, with a ball saver lol. Keefer nailed the factory settings on this.

Yeah, but on the flip side (no pun attended), I think it is one reason why people are turned off on location. There's nothing worse than putting a dollar in and losing your ball without a ball saver before you can even flip.

I have to admit, the ball saver and tilt warnings per ball were the first two things I changed, but I'm no where near the player that you are.

#2115 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

The jewels are on the main display too along with the emeralds. No need to go to a status page.

Correct. They are right around the four emeralds. They are just a bit harder to see but look like points on a compass.

#2129 4 years ago

I'm having more and more trouble with inconsistent plunges -- meaning, plunges that won't make it all the way around to the pops. I used to have this problem, and then it largely went away. Now it is back. I've looked carefully, and a good chunk of time that it is happening is because the ball hits the edge of the block shown in this photo.

WOZ Block (resized).JPG

Has anyone had this problem, and is there a fix? I was wondering if I put a piece of felt tape at the end of the shooter lane on the left block if that might divert the ball a bit to the right to avoid the other block. But, I figured I would ask first. Much thanks for any advice!

#2135 4 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

I have this issue also and believe its from the munchkin cliffy

That was a problem for a while, but that seemed to go away by raising the right side of the munchkin playfield. Of course, that created another problem of having the ball fall through the hole and skip to the left of the upper flipper at times. Someone on here posted about how they cut out a portion of the cliffy to prevent this, but I don't have the stomach to take off that playfield again any time soon.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Does the plunger hit the ball squarely in the center of the ball?

I think this is part of the problem because if I rotate the plunger on its axis, some orientations work better than others. The rubber tip is a bit lopsided. At times, when I have taken the rubber tip off and put it back on, it seems to work better for a while before becoming a problem again. I'm looking for a more permanent solution. Is there another way to adjust the angle of the plunger?

I wanted to try my felt tape idea, but some sticky felt thief apparently broke into my house and absconded with my tape because it is no where to be found.

#2143 4 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Ok i took some slow motion videos of failed launches. When I have a chance I will compile them together but it basically seems like the ball generally just isn't stable entering that area. Sometimes it would glance before the cliffy, I did see it graze the cliffy once or twice and sometimes it would hit on the right.
Here is an interesting example:
» YouTube video

Wow! Great video! That's really interesting. That looked like an absolutely perfect launch with the ball going where it should, but somehow it got all bounced around once it left the metal lane. I've never had this much of an issue launching a ball before. I know sometimes mine definitely hits the block that I indicated. Other times, it hits the cliffy, but that has lessened. I'm not sure if I've experienced what you just posted, but I wouldn't be surprised.

Interestingly, I get way fewer failed launches with the auto plunger. Maybe it is spin from an imperfect hit by the tip of the plunger . . . .

#2144 4 years ago

Separately, tonight I finally put my pin back on factory settings. It really is brutal, but I think it is making me a better player. I am way more alert because every bounce of the ball counts that much more. I was able to get 153K+ on one of the games, but I've had a bunch of games that are over way to quick. I'm going to see if I can do better and post my final score before the deadline. I know I won't win this contest, but I'm curious how well I can do on default settings.

#2149 4 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

Check the edges of the ramp guide, if they are sharp or have nicks just use sand paper to file them down and fine grit sand paper to make them smooth, had this happen on a few pins and that fixed the issue. It also wouldn't hurt if you replaced your shooter tip.
Another reason could be that in a HUO environment a pin is played a certain way and not at random in a commercial setting, meaning that you most likely pull the plunger a certain way either right or left or downward, in any case it can create uneven wear for the plunger. to fix that a washer or two may be needed at any one of the four bolts securing the plunger housing which will adjust the angle ever so slightly of your plunger. Hope this helps

Interesting idea about the washer. I may try that if other things don't work. There is definitely some play with the shooter rod so that it wiggles a bit.

I also think there is quite a bit of space between the end of the carved out wooden shooter lane and the start of the metal ramp with the two prongs. Plenty of space for the ball to veer off course or catch some spin before hitting the metal ramp. I'm not sure if this is more than usual for a pin, but it looks like a lot of space in a wide channel to me.

#2151 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I also think there is quite a bit of space between the end of the carved out wooden shooter lane and the start of the metal ramp with the two prongs. Plenty of space for the ball to veer off course or catch some spin before hitting the metal ramp. I'm not sure if this is more than usual for a pin, but it looks like a lot of space in a wide channel to me.

So I just compared WOZ to my other two pins, and the wooden groove on the shooter lane in WOZ is way shorter. For instance, on Star Trek, the groove runs up the full length of the lane until the metal ramp takes over. I think this empty space on WOZ probably contributes to a lot of the instability.

#2164 4 years ago

Hey guys, I may have a fix for inconsistent plunges. I added a strip of black felt tape at the end of the shooter lane on the left wooden block. It is about 1" wide (top to bottom) and runs from right under the "Collect" insert (basically the edge of the block) to the end of the switch (and a bit past -- basically even with Toto's ear on the plastic near it). It is almost invisible from the player's perspective. My felt strip is about 1 mm thick so this has the effect of narrowing the very end of the lane by 1 mm and possibly slowing down the ball just a bit. On mine, this seems to keep the ball under control as it hits the metal ramp. I just played a few games and went from 50% good plunges to 90%+ good plunges. Time will tell whether this will continue to work, but I wanted to pass it along as it might help everyone else.

#2190 4 years ago

Well, I think this will count as my official entry. Not a winning one, I know. I just couldn't get anything to stack well this weekend.

WOZScoreEntry1 (resized).JPG

I really enjoyed playing on factory default for a while. Thanks TaylorVA for doing the contest. It is good to dial back the settings you have gotten accustomed to once and a while. Here are a few things I learned:

1. I like ball savers.
2. I used to reward myself with an extra ball at 100,000 points. I think I'm going to leave that off for a while. I found that when I used to play, I never really paid attention to advancing Yellow Brick Road. I sort of let it happen naturally, knowing that if I just played long enough, I would eventually get that extra ball from points and then again from the YBR. However, when I played on factory this weekend, I found myself actively trying to advance down the YBR so that I could get that extra ball. It was that much more important. It added a new goal for me, so I think I'll keep it that way for a while.
3. When I first got the game, I found TNPLH to be nearly impossible, so I made it a bit easier by increasing the time and making every shot to a rainbow target register a hit. Now that I've gotten more used to the pin, I've been doing better at that mode. I like the factory settings where you actually have to aim for the individual rainbow targets, and I like the shortened time to get stuff done. It adds much more of a sense of urgency.
4. I think I will still go back to giving myself an extra ball when I get SPECIAL. It is lit so rarely, and the animation when you get it is so cool, that I feel like I deserve something good.

Anyway, lots of fun this weekend. Thanks again.

#2198 4 years ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Your enthusiastic perspective on WOZ says a lot SKB since you've owned (and appreciated) a long string of Sterns.
I'd like to add a WOZ to my currently Stern-rich collection.

There really is a difference. I went back to playing Star Trek for a while, and it just seemed so bare in comparison. On the other hand, I loved feeling the flow again as the ramps gobbled up my shots. Variety is definitely a good thing.

#2212 4 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

So no shit guys, I just did this!! Haunted MB, rescue, no hold flippers, munchkin, and ECMB all stacked!!!

EDIT: replaying the game in my head, I did all this on ball 3. I was around 750M, so already stoked I was on pace to beat my previous GC. I was able to pull out a 2 ball rescue mb. Then got haunted, and to my surprise it was haunted mb. I was able to cradle two balls on my right flipper and start munchkin with the left. Then started no hold flippers (holy shit that mode is "Chaos!"). I believe ECMB started sometime during all the madness too. My wife, who way laying in bed came into the game room and says 'are you alright?' I was literally screaming 'yeahs!' 'Fucks!' And 'oh gods!' - never has a pin done that to me. This might just be the best pin I've ever played/owned. I hope it's not just the honeymoon speaking. But on factory settings, with the pitch steep (think I'm 6.9 or 7), this pin reminds me of IM meets FGY meets TWD. Love it! My adrenalin is still pumping.

Congrats! There is no better feeling than when you can stack modes like that in this game. Pure chaos, but hugely fun.

#2219 4 years ago

It seems like there are a bunch of new WOZ owners. There's a thread going to discuss game strategy:


As you guys figure out your own individual ways to play, it would be great to have your input in that thread on what you see as good strategies.

#2229 4 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

So Eskaybee was the winner of the WOZ challenge from what I can tell. Anyone do better than his 2+million score?

Beginner's luck.

Just kidding. Congrats!

#2231 4 years ago

Do you recall what your bonus was that game? What's really awesome about WOZ is that you can have a normal score and then quadruple it or more with a good stacked munchkin or haunted mode. Just don't tilt!

#2247 4 years ago

Congrats! Melting the witch is such a great feeling, and the victory mode after it is so cool.

Quoted from Eskaybee:

Is it me or when the bonus is displayed for munchkin + HOADC it's wrong - it shows the same exact score. For example it shows:
Munchkin 60,000
HOADC +1.5x 60,000
Shouldn't it display like 30,000 extra points? Am I not reading it correctly?

Yeah, it makes no sense. I wish they would change it. Someone said Keith had some logic behind it, but it makes no sense to me. You are awarded the right amount of points. The display is just confusing.

#2272 4 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I'm a Jonny come lately. Played WoZ on location a few times but never clicked with it, just didn't impress me with the gameplay, but I played it the other week at a friends house and found it was better than I had remembered.
However I'm at a first grade level, meaning I don't know much about the rules. But for example years I didn't like Tspp until I bought it and now it's one of my top pins.
Is WoZ like Tspp in that way, I mean it's got several levels that you must keep track of at certain times. Also the rules, are they really good at this point? I had played WoZ years ago so maybe I wasn't getting the right impression the code might have been very basic.
I have the ability to get a RR for $8400 that's just 200 plays mint. Is that a real good deal, I want to jump on it, but wanted to make sure it's a very good deal. I like the RR color and the tasteful figurines.
I'm hoping that I'll be able to get into this pin better once I own it. Just asking for advice or encouragement. How is WoZ compared to TH? I'm sure people have opinions, is WoZ better than TH, I played TH and really didn't understand a bit of what was going on, I think TH looks better but I hated the movies compared to WoZ which is a timeless classic.

Hmmm. Asking people in a WOZ Fan Club thread whether you should purchase WOZ . . . . Seems like you already made up your mind and want some affirmation.

All kidding aside, it is a great pin for all the reasons that others have said. And even just reciting the rules or watching people play doesn't truly give you a feel for the subtlety of how all the rules interact with each other to make playing a truly unique experience. It is a tough game to get a feel for on location. But, you won't be sorry owning one.

Congrats on your impending purchase!

#2273 4 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

A few quick examples but there are many other more subtle effects:

- When crystal ball is ready, hitting the targets sends. Ripple through the playfield colors as it changes selected mode.

Wow! I didn't notice that. I'll have to look harder next time.

#2284 4 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

This is very similar to how I feel when I first saw WoZ. It was actually 2 years ago and I was at the Pinball Museum Hall of Fame (HoF). I stood there and watched two guys playing the game, but unfortunately I never got the chance to play. The game looked and seemed to play SO different from any of the other couple hundred pins that were there. Fast forward almost a year later and here I stand in my new friend's game room and there it sits again. I remember thinking, "Hey I remember this game at the HoF!" When I got to finally play it (There was a line to play it again), I had such an amazing experience, that I did whatever I had to do to buy it. I sold furniture, 2 of my 3 arcade games, dozens of items from my other hobby, stock, etc to get a RR a year later!
I tell you all this to state the following: JJ Pins are the 4TH GENERATION OF PINBALL! The first generation was EM, second generation SS, third generation was Dot Matrix, and now we have the fourth generation, WoZ & The Hobbit. JJ has changed pinball forever.

Congrats! Welcome to the club. Now, save up for The Hobbit, JJP#3, . . . .

#2286 4 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

Hey guys please help a new pin owner who has their first pin. I've only owned my WoZ for 2 days, and I'm reading this entire thread. I've encountered many posts that I really don't understand like this one. I may likely be in the low minority of readers who are so new to pin ownership, that I don't understand a lot of the pin terminology or acronyms. It's a bummer that some of the comments use acronyms or terminology that only the educated understand.
What does this quoted post mean? Is there a screen shot anywhere of this issue? Where is the WoZ forum that shows vids/ screen shots for fixes at?

You'll catch on in no time. Just keep reading.

He's talking about the upper left playfield, the one that is raised and has castle walls around it. When the ball is up there, you can either hit the RESCUE targets, the castle doors, or a loop. The loop has an insert in the playfield that says search. When you shoot that shot, the ball is supposed to loop around and come back out at your flipper. But sometimes, it goes in and bounces back out without making a full loop. There is a metal wire ball guide that is curved that guides the ball around for the loop. This sometimes has too low of a height so that when the ball hits it, it doesn't follow the track of the guide but just bounces out. If this happens to you, you can try bending it ever so slightly up by gripping the middle and pulling up. Don't pull too hard. You can also try lowering the flipper power a bit in the settings menu for the flipper in the castle playfield.

#2303 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Hey guys, I may have a fix for inconsistent plunges. I added a strip of black felt tape at the end of the shooter lane on the left wooden block. It is about 1" wide (top to bottom) and runs from right under the "Collect" insert (basically the edge of the block) to the end of the switch (and a bit past -- basically even with Toto's ear on the plastic near it). It is almost invisible from the player's perspective. My felt strip is about 1 mm thick so this has the effect of narrowing the very end of the lane by 1 mm and possibly slowing down the ball just a bit. On mine, this seems to keep the ball under control as it hits the metal ramp. I just played a few games and went from 50% good plunges to 90%+ good plunges. Time will tell whether this will continue to work, but I wanted to pass it along as it might help everyone else.

Just a note to say that this fix seems to be holding up over multiple games. I can't say that I'm still at 90% perfect plunges, but I would say 75-80%, again up from 50%.

#2317 4 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

I was able to get some mini pliers under the plastic to get the first nut off. That second is partially under the ramp though so gonna be a bit tougher to access. I gotta bail in a few so might not get to it today.

Maybe something like this with the right attachment. You would need to see if a socket was available for it.

amazon.com link »

Not sure if you have enough clearance though.

#2333 4 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Got home a bit ago so was able to tackle this. The hardest part was getting the nuts off the plastic piece which those posts hold the rubber in tack. I don't know how merrcat did it without removing those nuts as the posts is what holds the rubber in place.
EDIT: looking at it again, I guess you don't have to remov the plastic piece and stretch the rubber around it - that's what Merrcat was saying. So just loosen the 3 munchkin screws to get the rubber in and you should be golden...
Anyway, here's what you need for anyone doing it. Remove nuts to get plastic off using a 11/32 wrench; if you can get a ratcheting wrench that'll help a lot. The hard part is the post screw moves with the nut, I have no idea how I got it loose, but eventually the pinball gods just threw me a bone and it budged. You'll probably need a 5/16 to tighten the post back down. The munchkin playfield is easy; just remove screws 5&6 in the screenshot and loosen, but not remove, 8. That gives you enough clearance to get the rubber in.
I replaced the rubber with a 2 1/2 white; seems to work just fine.
Here's the tools you need and screenshot from the manual:

Nice write up. From what I've heard, I feel like that rubber ring is a ticking time bomb in these games. It will snap at some point; it is just a matter of when. I'm glad to hear that you don't have to take the munchkin playfield off. I had a more difficult than usual time taking it off way back when to put the cliffy on.

#2337 4 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

That upper slingshot is a time bomb lol.

Yeah, maybe that was a bit of hyperbole on my part. I guess every ring will break in time. It just seems that one is supposed to break more frequently and seems to be in a pretty tough area to get to. Don't mind me; my hands get all sweaty any time I even think about working on my pin. I'm a nervous repairman.

#2341 4 years ago

Look what just arrived for my WOZ.

IMG_0953 (resized).JPG
IMG_0954 (resized).JPG

The pindemption system was very easy to install. Just plug and play. And, it seems quite easy switching back and forth between playing for tickets and playing under the regular rules. One nice thing that I wasn't expecting is that I can now play under the regular rules but on a timer with unlimited balls. So, I can now challenge my kids and guests to see who can get the most points in, say, 3 minutes. And, they don't have to wait around for me to finish the occasional 20 minute ball. I'm looking forward to exploring the options.

#2346 4 years ago

Slight update to my fix for inconsistent plunges. I was starting to have issues again, so I added a second strip of black felt tape to the wooden block on the left immediately above the collect insert. So, I have a strip of felt both above and below the collect insert. This seems to keep the ball centered on the metal ramp in the shooter lane. I'm back to nearly 100% consistency. I'll see if it holds up.

#2348 4 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

I have inconsistent plunges too. Both manually and automatic. I'll give this a shot. Care to share a pic?

Sure. Here you go. As you can see, the felt is hard to notice. I had to take the picture with a flash so you would see it at all. I added horizontal green lines to show the length of each piece.

WoZFeltFix (resized).jpg

If you try this, report back with the results. It would be good to get a second data point.

#2350 4 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Is that simply sticky backed stuff from a craft store? I may try it myself

Yes, exactly.

#2352 4 years ago

My wife and I just had a mini pindemption tournament. She won with 57 tickets in 3 minutes. She said she likes playing that way better because it evens out the playing between us, and she doesn't have to wait. She did go through 8 balls in those 3 minutes, but hey, she won!

#2357 4 years ago

The speaker that is directly under my cabinet is really soft. How loud is yours? When I looked at it, it looks like the black wire that connects to the speaker might be severed right next to the plug. It is crimped there, so I can't tell whether it is fully severed or if signal is getting through.