(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 15,286 posts
  • 754 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by Don_C
  • Topic is favorited by 331 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_0979 (resized).png
IMG_0978 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2193 (resized).jpeg
oz-sign (resized).jpeg
IMG_3452 (resized).jpeg
woz ball lock nose (resized).JPG
087b86b5-22d3-4d40-a287-5f9841ff2489 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9011 (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpg
767a905f-f768-44f4-b3e3-b2998967ff3c_text.gif
Photo Mar 30 2024, 5 42 30 PM (resized).jpg
20240316_125739 (resized).jpg
20240314_221748 (resized).jpg
20240314_215727 (resized).jpg
841FD4A1-7C8E-4E32-973D-DD8D05C4902E (resized).png
3D72BC84-0D17-44A1-B683-A17D4B722FF3 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (10 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (7 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (5 years ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (5 years ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (5 years ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (5 years ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (4 years ago)

Post #11015 Adjustment advice for the monkey Posted by LTG (3 years ago)

Post #12537 7.03 Code Release Posted by bobukcat (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider nepi23.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#5516 5 years ago

I have a WOZ Standard, which is connected with VGA to the monitor. There is some interference in the picture, so I would like to try it with DVI. But how do I access the monitor connectors? Is there an easy way to open the monitor from the backbox - what should one do in order to access them?

Thanks for any tips!

#5518 5 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I have a WOZ Standard, which is connected with VGA to the monitor. There is some interference in the picture, so I would like to try it with DVI. But how do I access the monitor connectors? Is there an easy way to open the monitor from the backbox - what should one do in order to access them?
Thanks for any tips!

I tried bending down the backbox for the connectors and noticed that my monitor apparently only has a VGA-input, so no use to mess with DVI. Apparently I need to get some better VGA-cable due to interference though. I tried some other shorther VGA-lead that I could find in my storage, but it was not any better. Any suggestions on good VGA-cables are appreciated.

#5520 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Is it a cable? Or do you have a fault in the mainboard video system? Or a loose/worn connector?
It could also be a bad monitor.
Test the monitor by plugging it into a laptop that has VGA out.
Its usually not the cable. I have the same cables on my workbench for the last 20 years. They get loose but they are still perfect.
More likely its a failure in the video subsystem on the PC mainboard or a loose/cracked connector on the mainboard.

Thanks for the tips, I was so ready to blame the cable that those matters did not come to my mind.

It the monitor looks to be ok, maybe I should try this, since the computer has a DVI-output:
ebay.com link: 5FT 1 5M DVI I Dual Link 24 5 Male to VGA Male Video PC Adapter Monitor Cable

#5592 5 years ago

I have usually put my pinball machines into three parts when carrying them downstairs - backbox, playfield and cabinet. However, when trying to disconnect the WOZ's playfield, I noticed that the violet wires have been screwed into the power in the back.

What would be the best way to remove them in order to be able to be able to detach the playfield from the cabinet? It seems that there are no big connectors that one could separate.

Please share your best practices, if you have had to separate the playfield from the cabinet. Thank you!

WOZ_wires (resized).JPGWOZ_wires (resized).JPG

#5599 5 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I have usually put my pinball machines into three parts when carrying them downstairs - backbox, playfield and cabinet. However, when trying to disconnect the WOZ's playfield, I noticed that the violet wires have been screwed into the power in the back.
What would be the best way to remove them in order to be able to be able to detach the playfield from the cabinet? It seems that there are no big connectors that one could separate.
Please share your best practices, if you have had to separate the playfield from the cabinet. Thank you!

If someone is doing same kind of carrying job - the simplest way was to remove the power as well and stick it into same plastic bag with the wires from the playfield.

#5624 5 years ago

I have some problem with the castle right door. It gave in a bit in such manner that the ball got into the castle, but however not into the hole. There was a ball search and the ball dropped into the hole and machine started ejecting the ball. However now only the left castle door was open, so the eject hole was banging the ball from the hole each time to the shut right door.

I am sure this is some common problem for which a solution has been detailed in this thread. However, any pointers to the solution or information in a reply would be most appreciated. If the fix will require the removal of the mini-playfield, I would be grateful from any instructions relating to that as well.

Thanks!

#5627 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Latch below the castle playfield bent ? Door motor bad ?
LTG : )

I will check. If there are instructions for removing the castle playfield, it would be good to have - or maybe they are in the manual?

#5630 5 years ago

Looks like it is a loose set-screw regarding my right door. How have you managed to get the set-screw to stick? I remember the earlier owner telling me that he had to fix the set-screw and I noticed the castle playfield flipper was set to be very weak. I put more power to it and in no time the door broke then.
Is there something specific about the orientation of the set-screw - how to ensure that its in correct place once tightened?

Set-Screw (resized).JPGSet-Screw (resized).JPG

#5632 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The shaft of the motor is flattened, The screw engages the flattened area, there is no real orientation just tighten it.
The castle play field must be removed from the game in order to work on this. The instructions are in the manual. Follow the instructions exactly. It's not difficult nor is it really time consuming. If you have done it before it's about a 25-minute fix. It will take you a little longer for your first time.
By all means put blue Loctite on the screw threads when putting them back in.
If you're smart remove all of the screws from both doors and put blue Loctite on everything.
This is a good exercise because later on when you need to replace one of the electric motors you will know exactly what to do.
On most games problems only occur on the right door it takes the most abuse.

Thanks! I have removed the playfield, so now its time to put Loctite on the screws then!

#5634 5 years ago

Need to ask further guidance. It seems that loctite had been placed into the set-screw hole, so I will have to familiarize myself with how to clean the old loctite.

However, now when I have put the doors in their place, it seems that the latch does not open sufficently anymore. How can I adjust it to open a bit more? I think 1 mm should do it nicely.

Thank you for any help!

#5636 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

More
Don't clean off the old loctite. Just put new on top of it.

Thanks for the tip.

I noticed that someone had installed the left door a bit higher than the right door. This maybe was done to ensure the clearance with the latch. I pressed both doors down and now there is the tiny clearance issue with the left door and the latch. There must be some way to adjust the latch...

#5638 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Adjust the doorposts so that the stops barely clear the latch (1/64") but don't scrape on the wood.
The latch does have an adjustment but leave it alone for now.
Most of the games have one of the doors slightly higher than the other.

Thanks - I noticed that there was a small gap between the motor and the pole for the left door and I put it tightly together, but I will now adjust it so that the gap is there again. Then it will clear the latch.

#5647 5 years ago

I had my first try to put the castle mini playfield back. Something went wrong with the wiring I think even though the previous owner had numbered the connectors. I have to remove the mini playfield and try this again. I got some error messages, also the castle doors where banging open and shut and the wizard was rising and going down and also turning in its slot...

Errors (resized).JPGErrors (resized).JPG
#5653 5 years ago

Thank you pinballinreno and LTG for excellent tips! I noticed when putting the miniplayfield back together that I had accidentally knocked J9 off from the left-side opto i/o board. I checked it now again and reinstalled - I think it was one pin off - my eyesight is not what it used to be! Anyway, after reinstalling, no more errors.

#5656 5 years ago

My castle and munchkinland flippers stopped working all of a sudden. Is this a known phenomena and what should one check? Thank you for any tips!

#5658 5 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Since they are two separate mechs, my guess is that they have a common connector to the board or a common fuse. I would check the right connectors (by reseating them) and fuses (by removing and testing with a multimeter) first.

Any info, which fuse is it?

#5663 5 years ago

Thanks for the tips, I will look for loose connectors - hopefully it is not just a leaf switch, that would be too embarrassing

And LTG, yes, I do hate when it happens

#5667 5 years ago

Some testing done:
- flippers were ok according to the test, both switches on both flippers registered.
- I noticed that the slingshots were dead as well
- I tested magnets as well (coils-test --> put on repeat), it seems they are dead as well
- I checked fuses F702 and F708, but both gave the peep and I also tried to bend the fuse holders a bit to a more closed position to tighten their grip, but it was no help. F702 seems like the likely culprit, but did not help to tighted the holder and the fuse gave the beep.

It may then be some connector, I visually checked and did not notice any loose connectors. This might be a more difficult fault to hunt down.

#5669 5 years ago

Sorry all - I double-checked F702 fuse and its blown. I removed it the first time from its holder, but I think I may have misread the diagram and removed the fuse from the other end of the line or something like that...

1 month later
#5836 5 years ago

I noticed today that in my WOZ there is some wear on the PF before the target that leads to the hole that launches the ball to the castle. Have you had similar problems and did you manage to find good ways to cover the wear? I guess otherwise I just put some mylar there. Thanks for any tips!

IMG_4140 (resized).JPGIMG_4140 (resized).JPG
#5843 5 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Jjp makes a decal to overlap that area.

I do not see it in their shop? Is it through support services? A decal would definetely be better than just regular mylar.

#5850 5 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Here is a pic of the decal. It's been 3 yrs but in looking back, it was a guy named Roger Harris @jjp who made this decal. Don't know if he still there but sure they have more. I guess ask Frank @ Jjp.

Submitted a question to JJP support about the decal. I see however that even that decal would not completely cover the damaged area in my pin.

Anyone with a hires picture of that area, please let me know? I am thinking about creating a sticker myself and covering it with mylar then. I guess I would need to cut out the insert area from the sticker, so that the insert could shine through.

I guess changing the playfield would be nearly an impossible task for one that has never done such work and that WOZ playfield exchange would be one of the most difficult ones?

#5852 5 years ago
Quoted from Crile1:

I'm sure its deep in this thread somewhere, but does anyone have a fix for ball getting stuck in the back left corner or the left orbit?

I had this problem when I had removed the castle mini playfield and installed the wires to go from wrong holes... If you have done this, it might be worth checking out.

#5855 5 years ago

Anyone with a good picture regarding the area in front of the winkie drop down target, please send me a PM. I am trying to make some poor man's decal to cover the wear on my pin.

#5864 5 years ago

How difficult it would be to change the playfield in comparison to e.g. WMS tables? I have some wear in front of the winkie target, so I am thinking about doing this. The playfield parts are in good shape, so I am thinking just porting the parts to the new playfield to make the exchange easier for myself (i.e. without cleaning the parts). I have procured a rotisserie and this would be my first playfield swap. Anyone done this and have a website full of teardown pics?

#5870 5 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Anyone with a good picture regarding the area in front of the winkie drop down target, please send me a PM. I am trying to make some poor man's decal to cover the wear on my pin.

Bump. Anyone with an extra playfield that could take the photo for me? Thanks!

#5872 5 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

nepi23 i just got a piece of paper, and trimmed it a bit and put it in that area then drew out roughly the shape needed to protect the area in front of the drop target and then cut some mylar and boom.

I am thinking about making a sticker out of the picture and putting it there and then cover it with mylar.

#5875 5 years ago
Quoted from JIM_Z:

I can try for something better if that is the shot you need....

Exactly - you can see the wear here: https://images.pinside.com/1/d0/1d081356711d85ecae910546edcc813deb4cf017/resized/large/1d081356711d85ecae910546edcc813deb4cf017.jpg

It would be great if you could take another pic, but not at an angle. Many thanks!

#5878 5 years ago

Thank you very much JIM_Z, brilliant!

2 weeks later
#5933 5 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

I have a 7,5V buffered version, got a few boards that died, but it's a breeze to fix and JJP is super helpful and reactive in sending replacement parts, added to the fact that it's a fantastic game I wouldn't worry too much about the boards.
The biggest concern to me is how the early release had no mylar protection anywhere which will inevitably damage the playfield, I would look more on that part than as a biggest long term concern.

This is so true. I had a part chipped in front of the Winkie target recently and I am in the process of repairing it and covering it with mylar.

1 week later
#5977 5 years ago

I was changing the rubbers for my WOZ and noticed that there are some very difficult ones. Anyone know of any shortcuts on how to exchange them (= especially without removing the ramp or the castle miniplayfield)? It looks like removing the ramp is a difficult task. Have a look at the pic, thanks!

WOZ-rubbers (resized).jpgWOZ-rubbers (resized).jpg
3 weeks later
#6048 5 years ago

I am a fairly new owner for of WOZ, so my questions probably are such that have been already been asked and answered. In any case, if you can give a few pointers, it would be great.

These are the problems that I have noticed:

1) sometimes I notice that the monkey goes down its rail and tries to catch the ball at the magnet, but the ball has not been captured to the magnet. So then the monkey just goes up again without the ball.

2) the hounted forest -sign on the left. There is a tiny red light, but its not working.

Also, are there supposed to be some leds in the hands of the haunted forest trees (on the pop bumbers)?

Thank you for any tips on how to rectify the above!

#6050 5 years ago
Quoted from knobstone:

I also had the red led light not working on the haunted forest sign. Starting in May 2018 submitted several tickets, voicemails and received no response. Then was able to talk to Frank at JJP in July of this year about replacing the wireless harness for the light. Unfortunately, the wiring harness is not listed as a part in the WOZ manual. Frank informed he would talk to the engineers about the part, still no response after repeated voicemails and tickets I then decided to build another harness and determined that the wires from the forest sign were incorrectly installed to another harness underneath the playfield. I also want to mention that Frank is great talk to and is been very helpful with other issues, but again very frustrating.
Bottom line: After spending close to $20,000 on two JJ pinball machines, it's very disappointing that I can not even get a LED light replaced from this company.
[quoted image]

Thanks for the info. I am equally frustrated for the lack of support and no conclusion on replacing my lockdown bar for my DI, as mine looks like it has been poorly handpainted rather than powdercoated.

#6075 5 years ago
Quoted from knobstone:

If you like, I be willing to ship you the parts to help you replace the haunted forest red led light for free. The only part I don't have is this: amazon.com link » You should be able to repin the molex connector to the replacement light. Again on my machine, the led never worked, as was not wired correctly at the JJP factory. So I just went ahead and built a new wiring harness and replaced the red led light with it.

Thank you! Its a great community!

#6106 5 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

How difficult it would be to change the playfield in comparison to e.g. WMS tables? I have some wear in front of the winkie target, so I am thinking about doing this. The playfield parts are in good shape, so I am thinking just porting the parts to the new playfield to make the exchange easier for myself (i.e. without cleaning the parts). I have procured a rotisserie and this would be my first playfield swap. Anyone done this and have a website full of teardown pics?

Bump! Anybody here who has made a playfield swap - and better yet if that would have been your first swap. It would be nice to hear how difficult it was. I am planning on making the swap, but this would be my first swap and WOZ is full of stuff, so I am gathering courage. I have installed several playfield protectors and detached the playfield from cabinet many times when carrying the pins to downstairs, so I have some experience atleast in regard of those activities.

#6108 5 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

I'm curious, why are you looking at doing a playfield swap ? Is yours worn out ? If yes could you send pictures and tell me how many games it has.

Hi! Sending a PM to you.

3 months later
#6435 5 years ago

Hi!

I have a lightning problem with WOZ. I booted the game up today and suddenly I am missing half of the led-lightning on the playfield. More precisely it seems that leds #1-65, 67, 121, 126 and 140 (B) are out.

If I look at the chart for led boards on the manual, it seems that possible culprits are the small boards 15-17. For some reason board 16 seems to work however. Am I right to assume this?

Funny thing is that when I was testing the led-boards, for some reason the non-working leds started quite a lightshow with strange flickering. Have a look at the video:

What do you think - how should I proceed? When thinking about replacing the boards - are the small boards 15-17 similar to each other?

Thank you for any info!

#6442 5 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Hi!
I have a lightning problem with WOZ. I booted the game up today and suddenly I am missing half of the led-lightning on the playfield. More precisely it seems that leds #1-65, 67, 121, 126 and 140 (B) are out.
If I look at the chart for led boards on the manual, it seems that possible culprits are the small boards 15-17. For some reason board 16 seems to work however. Am I right to assume this?
Funny thing is that when I was testing the led-boards, for some reason the non-working leds started quite a lightshow with strange flickering. Have a look at the video:
What do you think - how should I proceed? When thinking about replacing the boards - are the small boards 15-17 similar to each other?
Thank you for any info!

I think my message might have got lost in the other light-related topic, any ideas on this one?

#6444 5 years ago

I detached the wires from led-boards 15, 16 and 17 and then reattached them. It seems that the boards get light now, but there is some strange flicker going on. What might be a proper next step? Have a look at the video:

EDIT: seems like led-board 17 was broken. Had one little board in the goodie-bag and replaced it. Seems to work again.

2 months later
#6818 5 years ago

I lost yesterday half of my playfield's leds and GI.

Its a bit strange though:
- led 66 works (board 16)
- led 67 does not work (board 15)
- led 68 and onwards works (board W2 and onwards)
- led 65 and leds with a smaller number do not work (from board 17 backwards)

What do you think, which board should be replaced? Its strange, cause working board 16 is in the middle and on both sides of it is a non-working board.

Last time this happened, I think I replaced board 16, but it might have been the wrong board?

#6820 5 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Is board 28 working? Is board W5 working? Find the first non-working board to narrow it down. It sounds from what you said the problem is either at 15 or before (such as 15, 28, W5, etc.)
[quoted image]

Thank you, I will have to investigate. I thought that I had found the culprit in board #17, but after I exchanged it, it worked ok only for a while and then the problems reappeared. It might be that there is a bad connection somewhere between the led-boards...

#6825 5 years ago

I have to check from you guys that am I having a led-board problem, or is this something else?

Now all the lights lit and in the start everything is fine, have a look here:

But a bit later in the game, the problems emerge like this:

And how to start figuring out, where the problem is?

Thanks for any info!

#6827 5 years ago

Thanks DCFAN for the suggestion - here is #15 bypassed.

The first video is taken after it was bypassed. Some strange flickering:

The second video is taken after I also remembered to turn the led off in the WOZ menu. Its better here:

For some reason the tail of the "yellow brick road" seems to sometimes be of different color than the rest of the yellow brick road.

What do you guys think - its better than before, but not fixed totally?

Can you tell by the pics - my boards are 5V unbuffered ones?

IMG_5513 (resized).JPGIMG_5513 (resized).JPGIMG_5514 (resized).JPGIMG_5514 (resized).JPG

#6829 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Maybe because the first six inserts are yellow instead of clear like all the others ?
LTG : )

Ah, ok, thanks, that explains it!

#6832 5 years ago

Was it so that the errors in my first video in the post #6827 were probably due to me not disabling board 15 in the menu?

#6834 5 years ago

Thanks everybody for the tips, board 15 it was then!

#6843 5 years ago

Anyone with some extra 5 VDC LED boards for sale, please send me a private message, I would need atleast a few tiny boards.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
From: $ 55.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos LLC
 
$ 159.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pixels Arcade Games
 
Wanted
From: $ 54.00
$ 44.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
 
10,000 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
San Jose, CA
$ 85.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
 
From: $ 39.00
$ 40.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
 
From: $ 165.00
Lighting - Led
Pinball Mod Co.
 
$ 5.00
$ 259.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 43.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
 
$ 40.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pinball Mod Co.
 
$ 91.00
$ 50.00
Playfield - Protection
Duke Pinball
 
Wanted
From: $ 54.00
$ 395.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pinball Mod Co.
 
From: $ 64.00
$ 29.00
Cabinet - Other
Filament Printing
 
$ 55.00
Lighting - Other
Pinball Mod Co.
 
$ 16.95
Hey modders!
Your shop name here

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider nepi23.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only?tu=nepi23 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.