I'm about to purchase a WoZ standard edition early run. The owner said he believes light mod done. How can I tell if it's 1.1 or 2.0. Thanks for the help.

Looking for the experts. About to buy this WoZ. Owner thought previous owner installed light mod. One expert (LTG) said definitely not 2.0. Can anyone tell if 1.1? The actual boards say 1.0. If not, I'm up for the challenge of upgrading to 2.0. JJP site says not in stock for 2.0 light mod. Do they still sell?

Thanks.

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Just got my first WoZ. SE,with 1.0 lights. According to previous owners, lights have been working for the past 5+ years without any issue. Very bright, too.

Question about Monkey Mech. It's picking up ball, but stops about 1/3 the way back up and then drops the ball. Maybe during transport, something got loose? Anything I should check?

Thanks.

Thanks LTG and Mike. Will check both.

I guess I found my problem. Is this the sensor for the monkey mech? Where is it suppose to be installed/located?

Thanks.

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Does that board impact game play? Or, just a light for the insert? I did notice the mech was bone dry so need to grease up.

Thanks, will get back in place. I tried looking through the manual and it wasn't clear to me where to install/put back.

Well, it was just in need of grease. Works perfectly now. Also found the LED board location. Was just mounted with double stick tape.

By the way, what is the best grease to use?

I love this game.

that’s exactly what I used!

Reporting back for duty...

1. I picked up #130 of 1,000 WoZ SE. It has 1.0 7.5V boards, but lights seem to work fine. I guess I should get 2.0 kit just in case for the future?
2. Owner never did code updates. Had 3.0 (?). I upgraded to 7.02 and had issues with monkey mech. Mike said "grease the monkey." that got it moving again, but then magnet sense not working. Saw post from LTG about troubleshooting and found the fix to just flip magnet. That did the trick!
3. Now, my last issue. Castle doors. The right door now doesn't open. I'm guessing I have to remove castle playfield (E3 of manual)? Then, I can see why the right door is not opening? It worked when I first got the machine. Could the code update from 3 to 7 cause the problem? Any ideas on how I should proceed to troubleshoot and fix the right door?

Thanks team WoZ!

So, if I hear the mech, then it's the screw on the latch. If the screw is not tight enough, I assume I could move the right door with my hand, right? I say this because with the game off, I cannot move either the left or right door. Wouldn't that indicate the door is either binding or the motor is dead like LTG said?

Thanks.

Thanks for the tips. Most likely, I need to take off mini playfield to address the issue.

Well, I tried the easy steps first:
1. Went into test and ran test for doors.
2. Then went to test coils, 51
3. After doing the above tests, both doors started opening again.
4. Ran a game and everything seemed to work again. So, motors for sure were not burned out. I even ran through monkey ball multiball and it worked fine too.

I guess something got stuck a bit and running through the tests "loosened" it up again?

Back to "greasing the monkey." I used white lithium grease. However, although the monkey works, it still sounds like it's binding while running. Maybe use a different grease? For other folks, is it quiet in operation or can you hear it while it's in motion? Some say to use superlube. Thoughts? Suggestions?

Thanks.

Hmmm, so when the doors were open, I could move them and they appeared to move "snuggly." If the screws were loose, wouldn't the doors seem to swing open with some "looseness" when swinging them open and close? (forgive the highly technical terms, "snuggly.")

And, I'm not adverse to taking off mini playfield to really fix this more permanently. I did read through that entire thread on the doors.

OK, good to know. I just wanted to confirm before I kept letting it run.

Great info, thanks.

That didn't take long. Played a few games and the the right door occasionally stuck closed (meaning, it didn't open). So, looks like I will plan to remove the mini playfield and do some surgery. Get the parts everyone recommended so I use the right screws and blue locktite.

I played about 30 games and no issues. But, I plan to take off the mini playfield this weekend and do some tweaking. Can you tell me what size screws I need? Can I get them from Home Depot? So, if I get the screws and blue locktite and follow your instructions for the doors, should that be enough for maintenance while I have the playfield off?

Thanks.

Thanks! I ordered 4 different size kit, which includes 1/4" size for $10 100 pieces. Also ordered some blue locktite. Will do this weekend and report back for duty!

Did I mention I love this game? I have never seen a game so closely connected to the theme. I feel like I'm "in the movie."

Thanks, sounds like a great plan. I have no issues with the 1.0/7.5 boards so no need to do anything.

Well, good news and bad news.

The good news is I now know how to take off the castle playfield. I had to make a two wire Molex to get it off. I took off the two set screws (didn't realize there were two) and added newer ones and added blue locktite for each door.

The bad news. It didn't make it better. Maybe even a little worse now. The right door sometimes doesn't open. I wonder if the latch that holds the doors closed is the culprit. It looks like it barely clears. Should I bend it?

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Anyone know how to order parts on Jersey Jack? I can't seem to find door parts, like extra posts. When I go to parts, I only see about 80 parts listed.
Am I searching right?

Another question, is it easy to add an external sub-woofer?

Another question, can knocker get louder? Seems pretty quiet.

Thanks.

Yes, I read your thread on castle doors. I thought I did everything. Oh well. Keep trying....thanks on the tips for ordering parts.

hmmm, so taking the wall on and off could keep the door from opening? When I go to test mode and test doors, the right door will not open now. Before I did all this work, it was working. The right door doesn't open at all now during game play and when in test mode testing doors.

Thanks. Are there two set screws for each door post? I had one opposite each other. Just want to make sure I'm working the right set screws.

Great, than I know I wasn't crazy. I'm #130 so I was apparently before they started adding the additional Molex. Good I have it now. The first time taking off the castle playfield took me almost 2 hours since I had to take a detour and create a molex. Today, I took off the playfield in 8 minutes.

Well, I did another round of taking off the castle playfield. I also ordered a set of motors. As I mentioned earlier, it only took me 8 minutes to take off now that I know how to do it.

I tried to adjust the right door my moving the position so it cleared the latch sooner. Didn't help. Maybe now I'm rubbing the playfield causing the bottom of the door to rub the wood...

Here's a question I have. How do the motors open and close doors? Is this the order?

1. Coil pulls latch and both doors open by the attached springs.
2. Doors close by latch opening and motors "pull" doors closed.

Do I have it right? If so, if I can reach the latch and lift up doors should "spring" open? Or do the motors open the doors and the springs close the doors?

Thanks.

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Reporting back for duty....

1. I pretty much narrowed down my castle door issue to a bad right motor. Awaiting parts.
2. I discovered chipped paint around top left pop bumper. Does JJP do anything about these playfield issues. If not, I guess my best option is to put on a playfield protector to prevent issues here or other parts of the playfield. I did put some mylar down for now in this area. Anyone have experience with putting down a playfield protector? Any lessons learned or tips?
3. While I'm doing the playfield protector, will do a full shop job. Any tips here?
4. Anyone connect up an external sub? Success, tips?

Thanks.

Thanks! It would be nice of they still have those. Although, I'm not against installing and overall protector as well.

Bob, just ordered this from JJP: 62-000013-XX. "WoZ mylar set." Is this the right product that has printed artwork on mylar?

Thanks.

I'm planning on doing a complete shop job on my WoZ. Is there a compiled list of all the coil sleeves needed anywhere?

To recap what I did recently:

1. I was having a slight problem with the right castle door occasionally getting stuck.
2. I took off the castle playfield to check the doors. While doing so, I noticed had to cut a pair of wires. So, instead of cutting, I added a two pin molex, .065 size.
3. After checking doors and tightening screws, I put everything back together and the right door stopped working completely.

So, my question is does the size of molex impact the power to the castle doors? Or, was it just coincidence the right door stopped working?

Thanks.

I get my new motors in a few days. Are they straight forward to remove and replace?

Thanks

Perfect, Thank you!

Bummer. Just got 4 motors for castle doors. None had capacitors on. So, more work to do.

Yes, all 4.

anyone have the old mylar printed artwork set? If not, can someone take a picture around the tree pop bumpers and I can make my own? I have wear around one of the tree pop bumpers.

JJP doesn't seem to have in stock any more.

Thanks.

Navystan, reporting back to duty...

Castle Door Journey
- Been working the door issues for the past few weeks.

Background
- When I first got the machine, it seemed to be working, but noticed the right door stayed open occasionally.
- Other Pinsiders suggested the common issues be looked at. 1) set screws not tight enough; 2) latch needed adjustment; 3) weak or bad right motor.
- When I took off the first time, I had to add a 2-wire/pin Molex. Apparently, the older Woz machines didn't have this Molex connector.
- Upon examining the right door, I added new set screws, the Allen head style to permit easier tightening. After reassembling, the right door stopped working. So, the door actually got worse. Don't know if it was coincidence, or if was just binding more, or motor power was getting worse.
- I ordered 4 new motors from JJP and all did not have capacitors installed.

Saturday Work day
- I spent about 4 hours working on the castle doors.
- Since I have now taken the castle playfield off so many times, I now can remove in less than 10 minutes.
- I removed the door assembly from the the castle playfield for the first time. Took off doors first and discovered the common problem of the bottom right screw was worn away. Luckily, I was able to get a small vise wrench around the screw to loosen and remove. (see pictures)
- I removed the right motor only since I didn't want to change out left motor until I have new capacitors. Had a little problem "melting" solder from the lugs. Don't know if my soldering unit is going bad, since in the past it worked pretty solidly. So, I had to cut away existing wire from the motor terminals. I also could not "melt" the solder along side the motor for the capacitor, so I had to cut that off as well. Barely had enough room to resolder back to the new motor.
- While I had the motor off the assembly, a friend recommend I test with a 9 volt battery. I tried to test with a 9 volt battery while still attached the the castle playfield, but neither left or right door would move with the battery (yes, I moved latch away). However, once the motor was off the mechanism, the battery did successfully turn the motor on. The new motor seemed to sound louder (more power?) then the old one.
- While I had the assembly apart, I had a closer look at the plate that is located near the latch the holds the doors closed. As some had suggested, this plate bends over time causing the doors not to open. I did notice mine was slightly impacting the latch clearing from the tabs, so I pushed it in a little before putting back together.
- So, to summarize what I did before restarting the game, I replaced the right castle door motor, used the existing capacitors, and bent the metal plate that impacts the latch that it used to keep doors closed.
- After restarting the WoZ, I went to test mode, and tested opening and closing doors. Both doors opened when test buttons were used.
- After running test mode, went to game play. As soon as I hit the doors, the stayed partially open. I turned off game and noticed when I pushed the doors with my fingers, both doors pushed past the latch with minimal effort. So, bending the plate apparently was too much.
- I took off castle playfield and could clearly see how latch was barely holding doors from opening. I tweaked right door by lowering the door down (as you look from the top) by adjusting the set screws on the post. When I did this, it also helped the left door. It now seemed light pressure by hand did not permit the doors to push through the latch. So, I stopped here and didn't try to bend the metal plate like I did earlier.
- I retested and pressed on the doors by hand to see if the doors would push open past the latch. They seemed to be strong enough to resist light pressure by hand, so I went to test by game play.
- During gameplay, it was a lot better. However, occasionally, the right door still partially opened. It would either reset after hitting a few times or at the end of a ball leaving the mini playfield (game reset).
- One other oddity happened one time. I noticed the crystal ball came up with an error message. However, after restarting the game, it was back to normal. I did nothing more than just restart the game.

Conclusion/Questions
- I need the get these capacitors. (See pictures). I looked at Great Plains Electronics, but didn't see the number on his site. Anyone know where I can get these and what part# I should be looking for?
- For my final adjustment to right door, bend plate a little more? I'm not going to take off again until I get the new capacitors and will replace the one I just did and likely just go ahead and change left door motor as well.
- My soldering skills need a little work. I had a hard time getting solder to "stick" to the side of motor. Use some flux? I saw others file down to scuff, so maybe that's all I need to do.
- Thanks for everyone's help and tips on the castle doors. Pinside users are super for helping the community.

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Anyone install the illuminated Winkie target mod? Like it? Worth installing?

Thanks. This is one on eBay. Look right?

ebay.com link: 25pcs 0 1uF 100nF 50V Ceramic Capacitor 104Z Z5V Free Shipping USA

I think I'm as close the the wood as possible. Hopefully, there is still some room to adjust. If not, bend the plate tab more?

Posted on old thread, but thought I would post here for others to find....

I followed your (pinballinreno) tip (thank you for all your tips and ideas for working the castle door issues). I lowered the castle playfield flipper power from 12 (normal) to 9. Still can make all the shots and it ensures the ball doesn't hit the doors too hard. In my case, the weight of the ball at normal power (12) was causing door to "jump" over the latch and cause right door to open partially. As you have said, the latch and doors seem to work best when doors are at different heights. But, I had already lowered the right door as far as possible without touching the wood. I will check the return spring to make sure it's not rubbing on the latch as others have suggested.

As a matter of fact, it might be good for most users to lower power to minimize the wear and tear on the doors and the systems that control the doors.

So, for now I'm finally 100% on the doors. Now I can add some of the standard mods.

Super. Will check the rubber and fix if needed.

I ordered a red one as well.

well, if you bang on the doors a few thousand times, it's bound to need some TLC. Plus, who doesn't like to tinker on their pinball machines. That's half the fun!

I have the same type of "artifact/pooling" if that's what you call it in that location as well. I put down a piece of mylar which everyone should do anyway to protect the beating that part of the playfield gets. The other important place for mylar is around the tree pops.

I have "greased the monkey" too, but it still sounds loud when in operation. Never had it "whisper quiet." When I got the machine, it wasn't moving much. When I "greased the monkey," it now moves to operate freely, but again, it's pretty loud. Does that mean it might be binding and something needs adjustment?

I used white lithium and like others have said, it's a bit messy and "slings around." I might give magnalube or superlube a spin.

LTG mentioned I should clean before adding grease. I didn't clean. Maybe I should clean and re-apply the grease. What is naptha?

Thanks.

Navystan, reporting back for duty...

I redid "greasing the Monkey," based on recommendations from this forum. I originally used white lithium, but it didn't seem to help as much as I hoped. Plus, the noise level was still pretty high. This time, I followed "pinballinreno" and "LTG" and other recommendations. I first cleaned with Naptha and then used Superlube. Now, it appears to work smoother and more quietly. Gotta "grease the Monkey" the right way!

Just got a WoZ RR manufacture date 2015. #392 being shipped. Does anyone know if this version came with Invisiglass and shaker? Thanks.

Since I'm getting this NIB RR, I want to lay down mylar in the trouble spots. Are there any pre cut pieces for the trouble areas? If not, where's the best place to get large pieces? Thanks.

Thanks. It's the pops I was most concerned about. Does JJP have these precut for these locations of the pin?

Sounds like I will likely have to add glass and shaker since mine is earlier than yours.

Question or thoughts from the "team" including "LTG." I have noticed that JJP is starting to limit the mechanical "toys." First noticed with latest iteration of WoZ YBR and now with GnR. (I'm in on a CE!). First, the most recent WoZ version doesn't have the Flying Monkey. Then, if you noticed, there are no mechanical "toys" in GnR. Everything is essentially static, even the light rods which are great innovation. You could argue the spotlights are mechs, but if they don't work, the game can still be played. I can clearly see how this was a great business decision. Less things to go wrong, especially for games on route, but even easier for home users to do less maintenance. All a far cry from original WoZ and POTC which had almost too many mechs to break down or have issues.

So, I'm not complaining, but just observing. I think it's a good business strategy for JPP and looks like GnR is proving they can balance the use of toys and overall enjoyment of a game.

Noticed anything odd in this picture?

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that’s funny

Boy, you guys have a "Woz" (way) with great humor.

I especially like JJP sent me another RR since the first one didn't have topper. That's what I call great customer service.

The one one the left was DOA, even though it was a NIB. So, the one on the right, I just purchased. It's perfect. The other one will be gone by next Saturday.

False alarm. The NIB RR had damage, so owner took back. But, he helped me out on other pins. Too bad, it really was a NIB RR. I found a nice RR from another Pinsider. No, it was from a gent in Atlanta, GA.

"Your dongle lets things know whats what." Yikes!