I get this when I turn on game... Any ideas

Thanks in advance.

Mike

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ok - could not find reset button so i pulled the plug and hit power with a few times, plugged back in and system went through a bunch of code and game booted up. Played a game - turned it off, waited about 5 min, turned back on - went to Jersey Jack screen - then a green screen where it loaded files(about 7 lines of code) then straight to the dancing scarecrow. first day with the machine so is this what's is supposed to do?

Thanks for the help so far.

M

Appreciate the quick reply’s all.

Just got back home - turned it back on and got the same error message.

Checked all connections to and in silver box - redid power plug and confirmed its directly into the wall... started game and good to go for now.

Still learning game but have Couple of questions:

1. In the last 20 games I have had 2 balls get stuck on the magnet directly below the munchkin Playfiled drop hole during multi ball. I let the game cycle through the ball search but the magnet does not stay off long enough to release them. A hard enough shake to release them also tilts the machine.

2. Left orbit does not always activate monkey when lit. - switch tests fine with ball roll over. And what do you do when it triggers the monkey but the ball never makes it to the magnet?

3. The rubber on the left out lane post split - I cannot place another one on as the lane guide is too close to the post and just splits the rubber? I picked up the machine like this so not sure if it’s meant to have a rubber on in that position - I though I saw a recent photo of that lane guide with a notch cut out but can’t relocate it - or could have been hallucinating?

Thanks in advance all.

M

Thanks Dash...

I think it’s a code problem - balls seems fine, I just think the disabling the magnet During multi ball would eliminate this.

I have had the capture arrow lit and left orbit did not activate monkey on a couple of occasions - I’ll hit right orbit in next shot and magnet comes on and monkey captures ball. (I’ll retest the top left switch again)

I tried this - it’s so tight, the ball guide actually cuts the new rubber in half - I just moved the post to the back and play better.

I’ll try that this weekend. Thx!

FYI - Just put an order in for 2 sets of carbon balls from ball Barron. They seem to have them back in stock now if anyone interested.

M

Morning all, Having some light issues and hoping for some help. Had about 1/2 the lights at the bottom of the playfiled go static last night. They were initially good during attract mode, bright and went through the light show fine. Then about 2 minutes into a game they all either all went dim or shut off. The lights did not respond if the ball triggered it,etc. for example: yellow brick road was dimly light up to the fireball insert, Toto had the two “o” off, no throne room lights bit lit oz plaque above was fine, “ball” targets were a dim light blue and did not change if hit and the state fair targets were orange.

This happened about a week ago - reseated connectors on right - restart and was ok, now I think it’s something more serious.

Anyone know if this is normal behavior for the light birads going - if so which one do I start with?

Thanks in advance

Mike

Thanks so much for response LTG. I’ll give that a shot over the next few days. I reseated many of the connections in that area - started it this afternoon played about 10 games and the issue has not come up again... yet. If it replicates, I’ll follow the prompts above, can I still get boards directly from JJP?

Cool. Thanks again and happy holidays!!

Ohhhhh. Yellow brick road has wood apron as well - nice looking game there.

Question - my game came with factory applied Mylar over the center of the playfiled that is starting to lift At certain edges and has some slight bubbling in the witches hat. Anyone ever remove their Mylar? I have read the multiple threads and YouTube videos of removing playfield Mylar but all examples have been with Mylar that’s 30 years old.

If so, How did that go?

Last thing I want to do is lift a YBR insert or take some clear with it.

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Safer does not exactly equal safe - Hahahaha. I think just leaving it on is my best bet as it’s still protecting the playfiled and I get very few, if any, ball deflection from it. The rollover targets cause more than that does and the only real issue is my OCD when I look at it and I am not playing.

Thanks all - and if that cowardly lion ever shares some of that courage with me - I’ll be sure to let you know how it goes.

Swivel monitor bracket - I have not yet had the need to remove the monitor in my ECLE but was wondering if there was a quick release that I was missing or is it attached with hardware and needs to be dismantled to get behind it?

Awesome. Thanks for the info.

Good link on how/what to remove to replace that rubber.

Check the Edge of the munchkin playfiled by the center ramp- ball gets real jumpy and tends to chip that Area...I recommend cliffy for the edge, PITA to do but necessary. Also check for playfiled wear around the forest pop bumpers - think this was also an early issue. Direct print cabinet looks so nice on the ECLE - I went with that and am ordering the 2.0 board set now, will install when I have the time or when a boards go and needed.

Good luck

^^. The chrome look is the reason I went with cliffy- definitely considered this option but just thought it drew too much attention.

Explored a new area of the game today - realized there was no mini game to get this ball back . Gave me a reason to do a wipe down and re-adjust the crystal ball connections.

Be safe and happy playing everyone.

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I also would not limit yourself to JJP - plenty of good new stern titles like JP or CGC remaking some of the all time greats.

Don’t get me wrong, they make great games and I love my WOZ - but only having room for three pins - I try to vary the style of games so my collection is not all the same game play. Just picked up AFM and it offers a nice change from one machine to the next.

Getting a constant clicking sound coming from the castle area during some modes - especially multi-balls? Any recommendations on where to start with trouble shooting would be appreciated.

Adding castle doors - kickouts - monkey mechs all work fine during gameplay.

Thx in advance.
Mike

And that is where the switch matrix displays goes over my head.

This is what my matrix shows now.

Thx

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I believe so - I hit it and goes down etc... only exception was I was “trying” to melt the witch the other day and the target would pop up quickly after I hit it. But, I don’t get to her that often to know the nuances of that mode.

Does not seem to be a switch adjustment as it does not register during shaker or if I tap the side of machine.

I’ll try to replicate it and see if I can grab video of it and post later.

Thx again
Mike

I’ll give it shot in cool tests later tonight - tried to replicate it last night with the video feature on phone ready to go... nothing after 15 games.

Thx

I just checked all the cool tests and only drop target test is putting it back (up) - not dropping it.

So to be clear - there is an additional coil that drops the target during game play without it being struck - this coil not working properly or at all will create the “clicking” noise I am occasionally hearing during some multiballs near the upper throne playfiled?

. I’ll check it out - thx rager and Lloyd.

Ok... that “L” bracket does trigger the target down - however that side assembly was loose and had some significant play. I tightened it down “super easy screw to get to” and let’s see what happens.

Thx again.
Mike.

So far after about 15 games or so I have not heard the clicking sound. Was not able to play since Saturday night But hopefully resolved.

Thx

When I originally got my ECLE the left outlane post was in the inside position and the rubber was pinched between the post and metal guide barely holding on by a thread. About two weeks later while replacing some rubbers and doing a good cleaning clean I was unable to replace that rubber without it getting completely cut in half from the metal bar... so I moved the post to the out position. A year or so later I am questioning why I am torturing myself and family with a game that already has a rule set I will never get through.

Is the game meant to have a rubber on the post when moved to the inside position? If so how are people getting it to fit.

- Mike

This did wonders for the monkey mech - I originally did just the threaded rod and worked for a game or so - did the back rod as well, 6 months later it’s never been smoother.

I usually do it every time I clean / wax game. I wipe the old stuff off then just dab some white lithium grease on the threads AND the non-threaded shaft. Run the monkey test a few times in diagnostics and done. Don’t even have to disassemble anything, you can reach it with playfiled 1/4 way pulled out.

I vote cliffy - makes it bullet proof. When installing it - You must drill the pilot holes into the bottom of the munchkin playfield to install it. be sure to tape off or break the drill bit so it’s short enough that you do not go through the playfiled to the top side.

Otherwise - it took my wife and I about an hr to install / put back together… it’s a lot easier with a second pair of hands.

NYE - Melt the witch for the first time.

- Health and happiness everyone.