Quoted from robey99:Anyone know if JJP will make more ruby reds?
^
add me to that list.
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Quoted from robey99:Anyone know if JJP will make more ruby reds?
^
add me to that list.
Quoted from Navystan:Noticed anything odd in this picture?
[quoted image]
Is it the evolution of the backbox size or the 2 WOZ 75th?!?!?! I'd like one of those please, thanks.
Quoted from meSz:Yeah but that's what I paid for mine 4 months ago so it something not too far out there! On MR. Pinball he provides his number, I didn't want to publish it here, so anyone can call him and look into it!
Again, I have no affiliation with the seller but figured it's worth looking into for 7k.
To further thus discussion just a little. It's just so difficult to tell if you're dealing with a matchstick type scenario. There's a Ruby Red on there also for 7000 from a little while back that is a scam confirmed and the ad is extremely convincing as a legit listing. Sure the price is a tad low but condition always warrants asking price and 7000 isn't out of the ballpark. There was a 75th here last week for 7700 in PA that I tried for but missed out on and I was after that one within minutes of the posting. I sent a pm and received no response. Watched it all day and sent another desperation pm 8 hours later. Sold. Seller finally responded but I'm sure a local with cash snatched it right up and my lack of long term activity on pinside (even though I've lurked for years before finally joining) assisted his initial non response.
Point is it's just so dang difficult to tell unless you're local and put eyes on or know the person.
I wouldn't consider buying a pin unless that person was on this site with pedigree of some sort and pictures for sure along with an extensive description. Then you hope you get the real deal. The only other option is NIB or used from the big boys like I was forced to do coming back in a few years ago. You pay the premium for used and since I don't plan on selling my pins I need to nail my final 2 selections. I have 3 currently.
I myself am looking for a 75th WOZ and/or a mint TSPP. There's a decent TSPP in Clinton Md. I'm just curious why it still hasn't sold even though it's loaded to the max. Maybe my paranoia, maybe I'm holding hope for that 75th WOZ sweet deal to pop up or maybe my 20 year Navy radar is dialed in a little too tight.
Point is we are all a little gun-shy I think because it's not our parents world anymore.(I'm 54 for era reference)
Stinks we have to be so skeptical but it's reality and vigilance is key to longevity in my world past and present.
Quoted from meSz:Well it looks like seller heard his price was too low.
Wizard of Oz Emerald City Limited Edition., 2013 Jersey Jack: $8000
This pinball machine has 260 plays and still looks perfect.
Eric
Dallas, Texas 75243
Or they are upping the scam legitimacy. Pinside lurker purhaps.
Makes me think the seller is aware of pinside or a member/lurker maybe? If so, wouldn't it make sense to post up here and increase your chances dramatically. Regardless, it still has my radar up. If I had a machine for sale this is my first stop. If you are involved in pinball in any consistent way you've most likely heard of pinside at some point. I mean they know about Mr. Pinball so....
There's another listing here with one in New York. I pm'd seller first day of ad and asked them to post pictures because in the listing they stated they would. Heard nothing back and there's still no photos and it's been a fair amount of time. Immediately I think its a scam. True or not post something up and don't respond to inquiries or follow through with your intent to post pictures, updates or whatever and I'll never call or contact you again. Perception is reality in my world.
I'm looking specifically for a 75th RR in the Northeast so these are out of my range and model.
Have a good weekend pinball peoples.
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Mike
Quoted from Navystan:Since I'm getting this NIB RR, I want to lay down mylar in the trouble spots. Are there any pre cut pieces for the trouble areas? If not, where's the best place to get large pieces? Thanks.
WAIT! WHAT? NIB RR. Did it have a twin!!!?? Talk about find of the year.
Was it the seller out of Az. I saw they had a NIB standard for sale and next to it I saw another NIB WOZ it looked like.
Quoted from Rager170:I believe they are unpainted from Shapeways...
The original threads are here in case anyone wants amplifying info.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/evil-witch-replacement-mod-for-wizard-of-oz-machines
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wizard-of-oz-wicked-witch-super-model-mod-makeover
Insert sad face here. Making adjustments, laying mylar down in heavy wear areas, breaking stuff, adding some easy mods, breaking more stuff.....
Actually the screw heads snapped off the mount plate when I tried to take it off to put new pop bumper bodies on. Red loctite is very good at it's job.
Then I tried to take the 1/4 inch extended hex nut off so I could get at the remaining screw body and it snapped off immediately.
If anyone is messing with these pop bumpers be very careful when you try to take the 2 black top mounting plate screws out. They are sealed with what appears to be 271 red loctite and will most likely snap when trying to unscrew them. Probably a slow loosen a little, tighten back, loosen a little more, tighten back, etc... scenario would be prudent.
Now where's Barry's number at..........
Quoted from LTG:Send him a PM in case he doesn't see this. Or try calling Nate at JJP.
LTG : )
Lloyd,
Thanks for responding.. I left some messages including Nate's voice mail. Just a busy one today I guess. No biggie, we'll try again later.
With the shipping stuff thats going on with USPS right now, I'm scared to order anything anyway. ha.
One of my packages recently started out in Virginia and ended up going west instead of north then I get the shipment will be delayed email.
Another one was literally in Boston for delivery then got picked up and rerouted to another state 2 days later. It's nutso.
Anyway, have a good one and thanks for the help as always.
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Mike
Got my order in for some pop bumper parts with Nate from JJP just now. Just wanted to pass along my great experience. Pleasant and extremely helpful as always. I really dig the customer service at JJP and have never had an issue when I called.
I told Nate I was gonna send some business his way. That $29.99 WOZ Playfield Protector Set(PPS)...I finally asked what it is. It's worth the money for the upper playfield and munchkin playfield alone not to mention the entire playfield protector that comes with it. I plan to use both uppers and just store the main playfield protector. It's a heck of a bargain so if you're ordering some WOZ parts I'd throw the PPS in on the order.
Tell Nate that Mike sent you. He'll probably charge me double now for the extra work.
On a side note.
I strongly recommend upgrading any shipping to UPS. Pay the upgrade when your ordering parts or anything for that matter. US Postal service is having a bad one. I've got parts all over the place with no deliveries in sight.
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Mike
Quoted from MLmotorsport:Wanted to say thanks! I put in the new SSD and installed the code per JJP instructions and $20 later its back up and working 100%
Please share where you purchased your SSD. Was it directly from JJP or aftermarket? Was it a direct replacement?
Just in case I/we ever need one we'll know exactly what to do.
Thanks
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Mike
Quoted from Pinballomatic:You make a full install stick and use the game to program it.
Good morning Steve. Thanks for the speedy response.
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Mike
Ordered the Mantis Amusements 3 piece hole protectors for a World Cup Soccer with the idea that they could fit in and protect the holes in my WOZ. Definitely a direct fit in the Throne vuk. Haven't tried the Castle vuk yet and the munchkin out hole will require a little manipulation but I think I can make the metal smaller to fit the hole. This is a dry fit and I will add a bit of clear silicone and find best positioning when it's time to install for real.
Also, a public apology to kstairmantis at Mantis Amusements for giving him crap about the length of shipping time it took for the parts to get here. I didn't do my research with regard to the US Postal Service having a really bad go right now. Sorry Kerry for being a jackass.
The 3 piece set is here: https://mantispinball.com/product-category/world-cup-soccer/
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Mike
Installed another AWESOME set of Pingraffix ( www.pingraffix.com ) from @joeraptor2003. They really go well with the game and liven up the playfield.
I use the wet method and its always been a simple install. Since I don't have assistance I found the best way was for me to put on my side protectors, slide the playfield out to the farthest maintenance stop and then lift the back of the playfield until it is clear of the cabinet. I use 2 ratchet straps and my triple bowling ball bag (50 pounds) to hold the front down. Here's a couple pics. Just remember to use those side protectors every time you lower or raise your playfield.
Thanks @joeraptor2003! Great stuff!
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Mike
Quoted from Pinballomatic:Definitely grease it if it hasn't been.
Grease both the threaded and the rider below the threaded rod as well. Use white lithium or super lube. I use white lithium. Careful when you test it after because that threaded rod will spin that grease everywhere. Don't cake it on either. No reason to put it on like it was shot out of a fire hose.
My monkey was wonky when I was shaking mine down but.... running device tests first to verify operation and travel, a couple adjustments to both the monkey and the opto, a little cleaning and some new grease and he was flying down and snatching balls like you read about.
Also, watch this video to get comfortable with troubleshooting the Monkey and magnet. I'm not saying this is the end all be all video but he hits some major things to check and its a visual reference to gain confidence. This game is intimidating but if you make it small by working within small areas at a time it will be easier. Focus on one problem at a time. You seem to have more than one gremlin so pick one and only troubleshoot that one first. Get that monkey working and you'll be pumped when it comes to taking on the LED issue.
Quoted from mikepmcs:Grease both the threaded and the rider below the threaded rod as well. Use white lithium or super lube. I use white lithium. Careful when you test it after because that threaded rod will spin that grease everywhere. Don't cake it on either. No reason to put it on like it was shot out of a fire hose.
My monkey was wonky when I was shaking mine down but.... running device tests first to verify operation and travel, a couple adjustments to both the monkey and the opto, a little cleaning and some new grease and he was flying down and snatching balls like you read about.
Also, watch this video to get comfortable with troubleshooting the Monkey and magnet. I'm not saying this is the end all be all video but he hits some major things to check and its a visual reference to gain confidence. This game is intimidating but if you make it small by working within small areas at a time it will be easier. Focus on one problem at a time. You seem to have more than one gremlin so pick one and only troubleshoot that one first. Get that monkey working and you'll be pumped when it comes to taking on the LED issue.
I take too long to type apparently. Listen to Lloyd and Steve mostly but hopefully all our other inputs will maybe cover something of use as well.
Maybe it's time to do that changeover to the actual 2.0 system. I'm waiting for them to come back in stock myself. Fix the monkey first. LOL!
Oh yeah. Get a set of inside cabinet protectors if you don't already have them from JJP.
Call JJP first and see if they'll sell a set of the ones they supplied me with when I got my Wonka CE. They are a must have in my opinion.
If not, buy these.
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
Quoted from PinballT:Thanks Guys!
Looks like I have my work cut out for me. I was reading that it some people 12 hours to do the Light kit.
Probably read that as most people take this or longer. I have no intention of trying to set any time record when I do my changeover whenever that time comes. There are a few wizards here that have done more than one and they also offer their services should you opt for that convenience as well. Chris at King Pin comes to mind and I think ZaphX in Texas off the top of my head. May be an option for you depending on where you are in the US and level of comfort taking on a project such as this.
There are some very good posts and threads on here when it comes time to do this. A search will reveal all you seek. Just..... follow the yellow brick road.
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Mike
Quoted from Medic:So I made a video of the problem. In summary, switches were replaced, springs were made a little tighter. There seems to be enough room for the doors to open when latch raises. Both motors went bad all the sudden?
Both motors appear to be trying to operate the doors it looks to me. I see them moving a little. If motors were bad I would think there would be no movement. Not to mention the odds of both going bad at once. This seems like almost a mechanical/physical hindrance of some sort. All screws tight like the set screws on the shafts? Could be spinning inside the shaft?
or something is binding?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Both the motors are bad. I have seen this exact issue.
Both motors need full power the get past the spring tension.
The motors actually get weak, and have no power at all after awhile.
It has to do with the way the mech works. Stalling the motors as a stop, while they are fully energized without cutting the power to them, wears them out.
Replace them, get a couple spares also when you order.
Mention that people keep getting motors without capacitors on them, they might look into this.
Get some extra black door screws and maybe an extra door post (in case you break off a screw in a post).
Get extra screws for any that have stripped heads or are starting to wear.
Always put brand new screws in when working on this mech. They fatigue and will break on disassembly the next time you service this unit.
Get a proper Allen wrench set that fits the screw heads without any slop.
Put a little flat on the spindle shaft, with a dremel, to help with the slipping issue, if they havent done that for you.
I have put 6 of them in so far.
This mech can be maddening, but also can be made to work perfectly with a little care and knowedge.
boom. mic drop.
Quoted from darkryder:I installed the crystal ball mod and carefully moved the LCD screen with microSD card from the original crystal ball to the new one. It was displaying intermittent gibberish on the ball after the mod, now the crystal ball doesn’t turn on at all. I already checked the connector, reseated the SD card, etc. Wishing I hadn’t installed this mod as the crystal ball worked perfectly before. What are the chances that the small OLED board with the MicroSD card failed, is that common? I’ll check the associated fuse and test voltage at the power connector next. Any help would be appreciated.
http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/OLED-Screen-.html
2 things come to mind when I read this. 1. Static electricity could've killed it. I always use a grounding strap whenever I work on my Woz or other pinball machines.
2. Possibly more likely is the pin board the connector actually plugs in to on the oled board itself has worked the solder joints loose and has come apart. So the connector may be connected but the pin side may not be after moving it around.
I'd pull it and reconnect/solder the pins to the pads they attach to on the board.
Reference this picture I borrowed from Oasis Don a few pages back.
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Mike
16b4a5b76f471c7093780595f18e1ce6042c6d12 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Darkfader:Hey Guys new to the WOZ club! Just scored a amazing deal on a ECLE #618 from Replay Foundation! Should be here in a few days, It currently has light board issues, I dont know how bad, untill it gets here though, What mods would you all sugest? Also I will be doing videos with it on my Youtube channel too! If you want check out my channel and see my collection!
2.0 lighting system upgrade kit should be back in stock at some point. http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/WOZ-Lighting-Upgrade-Kit.html
Probably your best investment for a mod. It changes the entire lighting system eliminating your current light board issues. Many threads here on how to troubleshoot your existing light issues though. Just do a quick search and you'll find them all.
Feel free to youtube document that 2.0 light upgrade install if you go that route.
I'll be doing it at some point when it comes back in stock I suppose. I'm not experiencing any light issues as of yet but I don't play my WOZ that often because I'm still trying to bulletproof the playfield against wear.
It's tough for me to comprehend written instructions as my brain has been increasingly malfunctioning as time goes on. So a video or 2 would be helpful.
I hear it's a pretty lengthy install.
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Mike
Quoted from Chooga:Where did you find these mods? Would love to order some for my YBR. Thanks! Jason
Hallmark has some of the easiest, already manufactured, mods for the price. Here are some of the ones I did.
The Dorothy Flying Monkey one is my favorite(I got lucky getting this one as it literally tripled in price within weeks of being released). It came out in 2020 as well as the little Emerald City(this one has actually gone down in price since released). I used coated house wire to hang Dorothy and the Winkie Guard. Single wires attached to a nut or post and screwed in to the back of each ornament. The Coroner and the Mayor are the cheapest as a set.
All of them are easy to find on ebay. If you have any questions on any of the ones you see feel free to ask me about sizes and whatnot. I researched the bejeeesus out of each and every one. Just start with Hallmark Wizard of Oz and you're off to see the wizard. Sometimes you can even find a lot of them at once. like this one: ebay.com link: 13 Hallmark wizard of oz ornaments lot
I only have one more to put in and it's going in the back where most people put the emerald city. I chose to put my little city behind the throne room thingy. I had to make a little platform and then painted it green with some gold leaf to mimic the yellow/gold stairs. Not perfect but it works. Had to raise it up about 3/16ths so the ball would easily go under it. Then I just built up mounting tape on the outer wood rail to make it even. All of them are easily removed.
Quality between years of the ornaments and artists differs so really look at them closely and make sure it is what you want.
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Mike
I was asked to post a couple photos of how i attached a couple of my hallmark ornaments.
The Coroner is attached to a piece of shaped plastic that is then attached to the game plastic. Overkill. No reason for this but I had some grand idea apparently. 20210126_183135 (Large) (resized).jpg
The Mayor is attached to a piece of acrylic that I heated and shaped and then double side taped it to the little metal piece that was in the game already. He barely clears the munchkinland outhole.20210126_183106 (Large) (resized).jpg
The Winkie Guard is attached using a piece of 14g house wire. 12g preferred for a sturdier fit but it will work fine. Wanted coating on the wire and had black as well as white and green on a roll of 14-3 purchased a while ago. No idea why I stripped the one side, there was no reason for it.
Honestly didn't think I'd get it to sit right on the first shot but once it was in it fit so well I left it. It tucks in nicely by that nut at the end of his staff and the castle wall indentation. Drilled a small hole just under his waist line basically. Its some type of resin cast so it won't crack easily.20210126_183549 (Large) (resized).jpg
Dorothy is attached to a screw with green wire the same way. I had some silicone washers so i put them on. Overkill again but i'm not removing them. This was the first one I put on a month or so ago. She shakes a bit when the shaker goes off and stuff but so far there's no worry about it losing its shape or position.20210126_183513 (Large) (resized).jpg
Hope that helps.
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Mike
I always find the lightboard issue interesting when it comes up. I know it's a pain and mine will eventually go at some point. I'm really surprised someone doesn't offer a service or repairs these more often, or do they? I'd really like to try to repair these mostly for education on my part and something to do. I enjoy learning new stuff and like trying to fix broken stuff. As I wait for the 2.0 to come back in stock it seems like a usable skill.
I know herg and lyonsden had a great post a few years ago. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/where-to-buy-smd-led-for-woz-light-boards
Are these guys actually offering repair services? Is there another pinsider that specializes in this type of mini repair? My guess is someone could really make a decent side hustle if they wanted to take this on. Mostly on the bigger boards I guess as it would be more cost effective over the cheaper smaller boards.
Also, is it mostly the led component itself that fails? It appears so.
and...couldn't I just use the digital multimeter leads on continuity setting to check and see if it works?
Anyone want to send some broken boards my way so I can waste some time?
Also, here's a plug/reminder for wizards mist and shine and wizards spray wax. Both are anti-static.
I also never touch the playfield until I've grounded myself to the game using a wrist strap.
The non wired wrist straps/bracelets don't work so I don't trust them.
Quoted from Chooga:I just got my very first WOZ. It’s a yellow brick road. Absolutely gorgeous! These mods from Hallmark are completely awesome! I just got my three guards and put them in the castle. I’m looking forward to copying a few of your mods as well – hope you don’t mind. Excellent looking machine by the way
Heck ya. Copy everything and add some more. Ebay for all of these mostly. Hunt them down and put them on your watch list. Normally a seller will get notified that you are watching and they will knock 10-20% off in a special offer to you or some stuff. Tthe ornament-shop is also a resource but the prices may be higher.
Be patient and you'll find someone selling at a good price. Make sure you look at the ornament detail and the photos closely as well as the description.
There are a zillion wizard of oz ornaments out there but not all are created equally. Here's a quick example.
Miss Gulch has a few mods out there but here's the 1997 and 2012 versions.
1997
gulch97 (resized).jpg
The 2012 is clearly the better cast and looks like her and I prefer the sepia tone rather than the color version.
I haven't got this one yet because I think it's too big for where I want to install it. Christmas is over so the prices should start being reasonable again.
Anyway just an example of the multiple styles and casts of the same ornament.
You need help researching one let me know. Make sure you check the sizes. Most if not all but the new glass slippers and the metal emerald city are a type of cast resin plastic so they are nice and lightweight.
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Mike
Quoted from delt31:Where did you get the white picket fence? Looks great. Would like to do the same
I bet you could find a ton of mini white picket fences on etsy for wicked cheap. the cornstocks as well. key word is "miniature"
that site has some remarkable stuff from artisans all over the place.
Quoted from delt31:Update complete with figurines.....
My fav is the guy back right corner to cover that mech by the emerald city. Always hated how you can see that.
Looks good. The 3 guards in the castle are really cool.
My twister covers where you put the coroner so I put mine on the little piece of plastic to the right of it.
Quoted from Pinballomatic:Take a look at the unified power supply (if your game has one, that is), front right corner of the board cage in the bottom center of the cabinet. Look at the inductor at position L9 front lower edge
I hadn't come across this series of posts previously so I decided it was a good idea to check to see what my toroidal inductor (L9) looked like. I don't leave my machines on but figured better get ahead of it in case I need to call Nate and order a revised replacement.
It looks like I do have the updated revision in there and looking to confirm. Board date is 11/26/2014. For reference my build date is 1/21/2015. I guess it is possible the previous/original owner had already swapped this out but it doesn't look like anything has ever been messed with in there and the board date is pretty close to the build date. I had noticed in a previous post the date had mentioned the revision of March 2015 so I wanted to just say it's possible it was earlier than that. Probably a good idea for everyone to check and see what they have in there so you can order a replacement. 20210205_083133 (Medium) (resized).jpg 20210205_083246 (Medium) (resized).jpg
While I was in there I changed the cr2032 to a fresh one cause, why not. Then, of course, after looking at the picture I had to clean my cash box. 20210205_101839 (Medium) (resized).jpg
Since the playfield was up I went ahead and put my last little aesthetic mod in there. It's the 1996 Hallmark State Fair ornament. I wired it from the top hook to one of the playfield backboard screws. Put a small piece of 3m mounting tape to hold the balloon basket from twisting as well. It rests on the back piece of plastic in the corner that is used for ball blockage. 20210205_104058 (Medium) (resized).jpg
Go to play a couple games and second ball launched it gets stuck up just before the right orbit switch and the top of the munchkin playfield. Damnit, what's causing that? Mylar is that answer. Easy fix. But this isn't about that. Moving along I get a multiball and one of my balls disappears as I'm playing. No idea where it goes I just continue on and I'll get it unstuck or it will come down at some point etc... Nope. My single ball drains and the other one is still in play but I have no idea where it is. Ball search kicks on numerous times (47 minutes) before I finally turn the game off and remove the glass to locate the ball. It's literally resting under the switch arm in the middle of the ramp. Just sitting there not really stuck but apparently didn't have enough to make it around and got caught there in purgatory. Not common by any means and will probably not happen again. Damn, had a good game going too. No biggie, put it all back together and fire it up to play another one. Everything's fixed, let's play ball. Nope. But this isn't about that.
Start a new game and immediately ball starts auto launching and I see rescue 1 rescue 2 and the shaker is going off nonstop and everything is going nuts and there's no stopping it. Points just racking up like nutso, multiballs starting, literally everything is happening at once. I'm freaking out, this is it, it's my time and it's all over. In about 30 seconds every post in this thread and 20 more threads on top of this one covering every combination of problems on this site start rifling through my brain like its some weird movie scene.shia.gif
Turn the game off and try to reset it twice, no joy. Go into test and start looking at stuff. Magnet stuck, what? Let me try the monkey. It goes down now it's stuck and won't move. Great! I broke that as well. I'm compounding the problems at a rapid rate. Now my brain has switched to, what is this gonna cost in repair parts. New computer, every board, might as well do the 2.0 while I'm at it. What's the total? It's literally....
myers.gif
So now I'm looking up what scrap prices are at this point. It's impossible to fix so I'll just call Tom the junk hauler guy because everything is frozen, it's non repairable I'm sure of it and my stimulus check isn't gonna cover this one.... but just one more time let me try this.....and oh yeah! I somehow stumble and hack my way into the switch test matrix.
hackers.gif
I see this...
20210213_154845 (Medium).jpg
and as I'm moving the playfield up and down I notice that it kind of flashes, huh, ya, the whole row flashes on and off like it's on, it's off, it's on....
KBYoLn.gif
Ok, let's end this debacle. The damn 2nd T in the TOTO rollovers, the little led/logic board that is 3m stuck to a little metal plate below the rollovers that is ever so close to all those metal screw heads that are millimeters away had come unstuck and was shorting against said screw heads. hurricane guy.gif
I'll have to figure a way to bulletproof that. It will happen again If I don't address it with a fix. I'm thinking rubber screw head caps to make it simple.
Quoted from apinballwiz:I see that JJP has a playfield protector set on their website. Does anyone know what it consists of? Thanks in advance!
Yes. I have one. Had the same question. my post here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/235#post-6021331
Nate explained it and I added it to my order immediately. It is a 3 piece set consisting of all 3 playfield plastic protectors. It's thick plastic like lexan almost. Unbelievable deal. The F-14 Tomcat I bought came with one and I installed it. Pretty awesome for an older title to protect the playfield. So I jumped on this deal. They are normally pretty pricey. My plan is to do the upper playfields and only if I need to I'll install the lower as that would be a pretty sizeable job.
It has no Mylar in the set. Maybe that is another package they sell. I made some mylar templates for the balloon area, inlanes etc... and the bumper area was provided by a pinsider on here I believe.
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Mike
Quoted from Rager170:Hi Guys,
Have a small, minor problem maybe someone can help with. I noticed that when plugging in my headphones, I cannot access these two greyed out options in the menu. I would like to make the headphone jack volume louder than it is, without adjusting the machine volume. I am at the max so far.
So far I cant seem to figure out how to do it...[quoted image]
I don't know the fix but found these threads. Maybe they can help.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-low-headphone-volume
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/headphones-dont-work-on-woz
Quoted from Bartzenegger:Hi everyone ! Speaking of 2.0 light kits. I need one and looked on jjacks website and shows out of stock. Any idea where to get one or when they will by available?
Call Nate. He called me as a courtesy a few weeks ago to let me know they were back in stock. It is still $799 but make sure you ask to upgrade shipping because USPS is unreliable. Total bill was $820. 3 days later it was at my door. I have it boxed for when it's time to change it out. We're moving so I basically just did a quick inventory but Nate told me no problem, if something goes wrong he'll take care of it when it's time to install.
Here's his info taken right off of his signature.
Nathan Lawinger Customer Service Support Tech
Jersey Jack Pinball
Office: (630) 830-5225 ext.1127
Website: www.jerseyjackpinball.com
Email: [email protected]
Address: 1850 Greenleaf Ave, Elk Grove Village, IL 60007
Grab a set before they're gone.
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Mike
Quoted from OchoFosho:Thanks. A voltage regulator on a WoZ without the 2.0 light kit seems like a wise investment.
I bought my line conditioner specifically because I purchased my Wizard of Oz. Knowing it didn't have 2.0 it felt like some added help to hopefully make the 7.5s last just a little bit longer. My Willy Wonka and my Wizard of Oz are plugged into it. It has outlets for up to six devices. I don't leave it on or plugged in when the games are off. Vampire voltage kwh abuser if left on.
I do have the 2.0 kit patiently waiting to install when/if I need it. I also use an ESD setup whenever I remove the glass and happen to touch anything on the playfield or under it. Latent damage on electronics is real.
r/
Mike
Screenshot_20210831-143757_Amazon Shopping (resized).jpgScreenshot_20210831-143807_Amazon Shopping (resized).jpg
Quoted from manadams:Looking for a throne room led board "W4" if anyone did an upgrade and has a 5V or 7.5V extra to spare.
This took me forever to find but I remembered this pinsider was selling some.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/119741
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Mike
I chose this option when protecting the mini playfield edge. Frost king at about 3 dollars from home depot. Color matched ok for me and was simple to install. I have a piece on the other playfield as well.
It won't be everyone's favorite but those on a budget or not comfortable removing parts and want a solution until you want to upgrade (or not in my case) this is 100% protection.
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Mike
Quoted from wrd1972:I have a new side decal to put on the head. Any guggestions to remove the old decal without damaging the painted
I have a new side decal to put on the head. Any guggestions to remove the old decal without damaging the painted surface?
Hot air gun or even a hair dryer will work. Warm it as you go and gently/slowly start pulling it off. If it starts to rip or bind or separate as I'm doing this I'll go to a different spot and eventually attack the separated portion from a different angle.
Patience and speed of removal is key in my experience.
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Mike
Quoted from crazypinballguy:Installing our 2.0 kit tomorrow .. and Sunday if needed.
Please wish us luck, we may need it!
Hope it goes smoothly. Feel free to video tape the entire process.
Is it just this latest run of 2.0 kits is my question? I have one from the last run over a year ago. I hope to never have to install it but if I need a known board swap from JJP I would definitely appreciate clarity on this. Thank you.
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Mike
Quoted from Pinballomatic:Just a portion of this batch
Thank you for the lightning response, Sir.
Happily back to Defcon 5.
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Mike
Quoted from etien:Hi; received the v2.0 upgrade kit like 2 years ago but never bothered installing it as my Woz SEvis just fine. Shall I worry? Will jpp contact me if needed?
Is there a way to know if my kit has a defective board?
Etienne
I asked the same question a couple days ago and Steve from JJP answered immediately. Our kits are not impacted and it was a limited number of boards from this latest run.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/276#post-7004527
r/Mike
Quoted from Rager170:Anyone know how to make Game Blades (side art) stick back on the sides. Not sure if I used too much water/soap mixture and now it is peeling.
Would like to find a good way to make this stick again... I thought about using hair spray haha.
Try warming it up first with a hair dryer or heat gun(don't burn it if you're using a heat gun). Get it nice and hot and it may reactivate some of the adhesive.
3m will definitely solve your issue but no way I'd spray that while in the game.
Another option is 2 way tape. I use the one pictured when I need thin 2 way adhesive.
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Mike
Quoted from pbjksb:Thank you. I talked to JJP technician. Tech also told me that JJP also does repairs, which is much less than expensive than buying a new one, if if it can be repaired. Maybe worth repairing it for now because not planning to install 2.0 for awhile? Not sure.
I did not know this. Thanks for the info. I also have a 2.0 kit that I never want to install. haha.
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Mike
Quoted from CrashJT:I'm sick. My RR75WOZ Backglass slipped and broke. Does anyone know where I can get one?
Quoted from Pinballomatic:JJP Part Number 60-000003-04
Display Name/Code WOZ 75th Anniversary Screened Backglass
there are some left
Quoted from CrashJT:That's awesome. I hope so. Do i call JJP?
Yes, or email Martha at JJP with the info Steve gave you.
[email protected]
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Mike
Quoted from CrashJT:Thank you. Martha was great and is helping my WOZ get back on her feet!
That is awesome!!!
Best wishes.
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Mike
After trying what Lloyd has suggested please look at your TOTO tiny light boards. They are the 4 individual little boards that light the roll overs in the right outlane. They are mounted to the underside with 3m tape. Make sure one of them did not fall and is shorting out on a screw or something else. This really sounds like what happened to me. Everything all of a sudden went bonkers like you are describing.
Best wishes.
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Mike
Quoted from Mattyk:I ordered some mirror blades from Tilt Graphics. I chose the JJP ones and selected WOZ as the game. When they arrived they didn’t have the circles cut out to allow clearance for the bolts of the backbox hinges.
As a result these will not sit flush. I haven’t tried putting them on yet. Anyone else come across this? Am I correct in that the circles cut outs should be there?
you are correct.
Quoted from Enron64:Ok so I have basically resolved all my little issues but one. When a ball goes from the VUK near the crystal ball it has caused all the lights to go dim until I power the game down and back up again. I secured the connection to the crystal ball as it was loose. It has happened again once since then and has not happened since. Is this the cause of a loose connection to a lightboard near the VUK. Or is this the sign of failing boards? I have 7.5v boards. This only happens when a ball gets ejected from the the VUK near the crystal ball.
There is a mode that causes the lights to go off when entering the crystal ball vuk. Its a curse mode. I believe it's a 2 ball multiball and the playfield lights go off. This isn't what you're experiencing is it? Just wanted to throw that out there.
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Mike
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