(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

6 years ago

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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by apinballwiz
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Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (6 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (3 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (1 year ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (1 year ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

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#1474 4 years ago

Tracking our WOZ as it slowly makes its way across the US. Hopefully will arrive before the weekend otherwise it will be a loooong weekend lol. I have been keeping myself occupied by working on a couple of my project pins that I need to get out of the way.

Any reccomentations for items to check before first power up?

#1494 4 years ago

My membership card arrived today.


1 week later
#1508 3 years ago

+1 on the Lit Winkie target mod. The original winkie was impossible to see anyway and the mod also does a really nice job of lighting up that general area of the playfield. I went with the green light and it is a nice match to the thronerooms green.

#1513 3 years ago

The one I have seems reasonably flexible, maybe it will become more brittle with time or perhaps earlier runs had some issues?

If it is a problem, hopefully someone will make a better quality drop target in clear. Does anyone know if this is the same target mold as is being used for TH? I'm hoping so as if it becomes a universal part for JJP then edventually we should see lots of alternatives pop up (excuse the pun).

#1522 3 years ago

My monkey started dropping the ball and I noticed that it was snagging on the door today. After looking around here I tried adding washers to the door but that actually caused the door to deflect more into the monkey, I next tried loosening the upper playfield and nudging it but still couldn't get enough clearance (also I think I may be missing a screw there)

Anyway the solution i came up with was super easy and since I have not already seen it I thought I would share. I noticed that the door stops against a rail back there where the monkey drops the ball. All i had to so was add one of those stick on pads to the back of the door positioned so that the pad would rest against the rail. Presto! Plenty of clearance now.



#1524 3 years ago

Not really alhough a thinner pad would be ideal I figure it will edentually wear/compress. From the players position it is not at all noticable. The second picture is actually the door with the pad in place.... Wait, no this is the picture with the pad in place.


#1525 3 years ago

I was also noticing that its the monkeys foot that gets caught. Since its just a plastic piece with a 90 degree fold I figured maybe with the heat of being on that fold released just a hair causing the bottom to no longer clear the door. As a last resort I was considering building something to hold it in position while giving it a light bake. Fortunately I'm happy with just adding a pad to the door.

Maybe a good mod would be a steel monkey to replace the plastic one. It could thinner and not prone to warping with time/heat ensuring continued door clearance.

#1530 3 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Just mho... But the Back Alley Creations castle and tornado mods are the way to go. Awesome quality

I was looking at their castle mod this morning. I love the level of detail in the stone, to me it looks much more like an old rotting stone wall! So far I have not seen a tornado mod that I like, maybe seeing them in person would be different.

#1543 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

I get more SDTM from pop bumpers then outlane drains. You moved both outlanes posts down to close them up as much as possible id assume?

I've was tempted to do that for my wife as the drains can frustrate her as well. She insisted that I leave them stock though as in her words, thats how it would be if she played anywhere else.

I will say that WOZ has made her a better player in general as well. The other day she stepped up to RFM which she used to find very challenging and was like "hey, this game is easy now!"

#1552 3 years ago


Pretty hard to say without looking around but possibly the winkie coil stuck and burnt out just from the description? Maybe blew a transistor out on the driver board although the transistors on the driver board look pretty beefy. Hopefully nothing like a switch somehow getting coil power, but I think that would be fairly unlikely to happen on its own.

As far as what is in that vicinity (winkie), if I remember correctly the target basically has two coils and a switch. The switch is tripped on when the winkie is down. The large coil is used to reset/raise the winkie while the small coil trips the winkie, basically letting the computer drop the target on its own.

It will be interesting to hear the cause.

Burnt coils and driver transistors do happen even for no apparent cause sometimes as well... Just part of the fun of pinball in my book. A transistor shorts out internally holding the coil it drives open until it or the coil or both burn out. Fortunately most games are built to survive such occurances and are made so that such things are typically an easy repair to make even in the field.

#1559 3 years ago

Does the light still pass through at least some in the gap between the opening and target? Or did you also take out the led?

#1564 3 years ago

Bobukcat.. Tech get ya back up and running?

Here is my clear winki after about 500 plays... Might not make it to 700


#1565 3 years ago

Must have jynxed myself... Game 502... Death of the winki. Guess its back to original


#1585 3 years ago

Yeah, that would be a bummer, especially during a lights out mode. Already I wish more lights would go out but with an additional lighting kit in there, it probably would be even less of an effect. Especially fun is playing lights out in a low lit room and then hitting free game... it's like OMG I'm Blind! I'm Blind! lol.

I have the Winki light which I think addresses my number one lighting issue (but I need a new clear winki)... The only other play field area I think could maybe use a tiny bit more light (and not much) is the haunted forrest. But then again... it's supposed to be dark and spooky right? I think maybe a little focused upward light on the trees might make it pop a bit more while adding a bit of a spooky effect? Don't know.

One way to think of lighting the play field is like a stage. While you can go crazy and completely blow it out, it's often more effective to leave some area's unlit. Shadow is equally important, if not more. For example, with WOZ, you may notice that while up on the Rescue play field, the lower play field in a way forms a shadowed area by switching everything to a dim sepia thus subconsciously drawing your eye up to the area where the action is occuring.

#1601 3 years ago
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:

Hi, I'm picking up a WOZ ECLE soon. I've asked this in other threads but haven't received an answer. What are the differences between a Standard WOZ, RR WOZ or a ECLE WOZ? Just a wood apron and a numbered plaque? Thanks in advance for your input

Yes the Apron is different (RR has a metal apron with a special decal, ECLE has a wood apron (top) and is direct printed, Standard has a standard apron)

Also Different:
BackGlass Text:
ECLE Will have one of three sayings... "There's No Place Like Home", "We're Off to see the Wizard" or "Follow the Yellow Brick Road"
RR: Has one saying "75th Anniversary Limited Edition"
Standard: not sure

BackGlass background Color:
ECLE: Green
RR: Red
Standard: Black

ECLE: Wizard (Green and Red lighting)
Standard: Emerald City (Green lighting)
RR: Characters & 75th logo (White lighting)

The toys and mod's others already mentioned

Oh yeah, the cabinet... ECLE has the direct print clearcoated cabinet. All others use a decal.

#1614 3 years ago

I set mine to three ball and set the special to add a ball as well. I'm curious though, of the people who really enjoy the game, how many plays do you have in so far?

After about a month between the wife and I (and occasional friends) were already close to 1000 plays. I was suprised at a ECLE being sold with under 500 plays that had been passed around to a couple people already. My only thought was maybe they really didn't like it, but then folks were suprissed at how many we racked up on ours to date.

So home game fans of WOZ... How many plays do you have? Am I just obsessed? I still try to play my other pins sometimes but they just don't have the same magic at the moment.

#1624 3 years ago

Maybe turn it on and wait for one to go out then call support? Or call first and see how they want to proceed. Either way, I would call support. Even if your past warranty, pretty sure they will help you out. Just be ready to have some patience, unfortunately over the phone troubleshooting is not always an easy thing.

My WOZ was built about 7 months ago. The only light issue I have experienced is two random times on bootup the lights didn't come on at all. I figured the PC just didn't recognize a driver or something as after a reboot all was good again. We regularly have ours on about 4-5 hours at a time.

#1630 3 years ago

Power is not from USB for the lights, they are driven from a power supply. I believe the wires carrying power in the chain are black and violet (from a quick skim of the manual).

Myself, I would first verify that proper voltage is being delivered to the board experiencing an issue. Being RR, you should expect around 7.5 volts.

#1633 3 years ago

So I was reading the general therory of operation from the manual. So it seems like each board has a controller/driver chip which is basically the power gatekeeper for the board. It sounded like its always recieving full power from the power supply and based on signal input releasing appropriate power to the RGB channels.

I would think based on this that Wta may be onto something since that essentially means that little chip is holding back full power all the time.

Fortunately it does not seem to be a common issue anymore with the 7v boards so I don't think there is any sort of design flaw with the boards. Some power meters have a mode that will store peak power, i wonder if it would be possible to capture a spike from the power supply.

#1637 3 years ago

For me i noticed that the monkey was getting caught on the door after a couple days. On post 1522, i think page 30 i posted my solution which stopped 90% of the ball drops. I think i am going to also try building up a little more foam or maybe a piece of rubber along the opening to try to keep the ball in there.

#1638 3 years ago

Question on flipper rubbers, do most keep the stock black rubbers or have you switched to something else? If something else what are you using and how do you like it?

#1643 3 years ago

Thanks guys! I went ahead and ordered with the red lower flipper rings. I can post a shot later this week if someone doesn't beat me to it.

#1646 3 years ago

I think I will give those a try, especially since this happened last night...

Still going to get a replacement for it though since thats how the machine was built but will probably just store them.


#1658 3 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Originally the games were shipping with the ruby bats. They were having a few reports of breaking so they replaced them with black.
I am guessing the plastic infused with sparkles caused them to be slightly weaker than a normal bat.

Interesting, maybe I should have ordered two sets then. I guess I'll see how they hold up, hard to see it being worse than my slipper on a black flipper which only lasted a month.

Maybe if the right one breaks too I will epoxy the slippers back together on top of red flippers.

#1663 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

My right one came off within a few days. I super glued it back on, and it broke in half after a week. JJP sent me a new one. They said they had a bad batch of slippers which weren't flush and didn't adhere well.

Mine is probably from that batch then, the back side of the slipper looks like it was partially ground down and its clearly not a even or smooth surface. Good to hear that they normally last longer.

I could go either way with the slippers, although they are very much loved by my wife. Going to try the flipper bats from planetary as they were inexpensive enough and I had a couple other things to get. Also have the red rings on the way... Might have to spend a little time trying varying combinations of bat and ring styles.

#1671 3 years ago

And here is the titan competition red ring on WOZ.


#1680 3 years ago

For the cliffy just pre-drill with a small bit then install with a hand screwdriver so you don't accidently overtorque the screws. Snug will do. I pre drilled and secured one at a time.

Tip: Put some blue tape on the bit at the point you want to stop drilling as a guide so you don't accidently drill through the playfield.

The cliffy with drilling only takes a few minutes to install. It took me longer to remove and re-install the mini play-field.

#1691 3 years ago

Most of mine are default. I turned the trough up a couple notches because it was having trouble reliably ejecting a ball. I turned the bumpers down a couple notches with pretty much no effect on gameplay.

My slingshots I had turned down because they would sometimes airball out back to the shooter lane or down to the state fair balloon. Unfortunately that caused them to very consistently send balls to the outlanes (to the point where if it hit a slingshot you may as well walk away cuz your done)... So thats back at factory.

I'm thinking about putting a meter on the input power for the game since it seems like sometimes the coils are much more powerful than others, I'm thinking variations in grid power might be impacting it.

#1694 3 years ago

Intersting... If I ever slow down on playing it pretty much every day (i'm sure edventually)... It might be a game to play primarily in the winter with the whole block isn't running their A/C's.

I have noticed though that when power is low weak flipper crystal ball is MUCH more noticable. Where as sometimes I don't even notice any difference last time they were so weak it was hilarious and had me in tears... Which I think is more the point of that mode.

#1714 3 years ago

The call outs are also really good about subtley letting you know which mode your entering without looking up at the monitor.

For example with crystal ball (all call outs here are the wicked witch:
"I'll make you as weak as the scarecrow!" With green lights = weak flippers
"Chaos!" With red lights = no hold flippers
"Shoot the blinky light..... If you can (cackle)" with (i forgot which color) = lights on
Cant remember the callout for lights out but would know it if I heard it and i think its light blue.

Hauntd forrest is called by the cowardly lion...
I'll follow you. = shots... Etc, etc.

Glenda calls out munchkin modes...

The mayor? Calls out hurry ups and rainbow targets

It really does a good job of guiding you through while still staying true to the theme.

#1732 3 years ago

I measure about 87.5" for ECLE with a RR topper which should be the same.

#1739 3 years ago


#1747 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Hang in there, Jakers. A lot of us have had issues out of the box. JJP support is great. You'll get your game fully operational soon.

Agree, JJP will take care of you. A couple things to check on once you get your more serious bugs worked out are the witches legs on the house. After shipping I'm sure it will need to be re-calibrated and there are options to do so in the menus. Also I put a small felt pad on the back of the castle back door (where the monkey drops the ball) so that the door sticks out a hair more eliminating any possibility of the monkey catching on it.

Cliffy protectors are great for two reasons:
a) the munchkin land play field really needs it and
b) taking everything apart and re-assembling to do so gives you an opportunity to dial everything in, as well as is a great introduction into the games workings.

#1750 3 years ago

I'll snap a couple tonight. One of a chip that started forming in the weeks before I put it on and another with all the marks from ball impacts against the cliffy since.

#1753 3 years ago

Here is why it's important... First shot chip starting (really hard to pick up on camera since i filled it and it was small to begin with) but the next is more dramatic as it shows all the ball impacts the cliffy has absorbed since.




#1763 3 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

I asked JJ today if he would implement a post your score to facebook instead of tweet your score and he said to wait for pin #3.

Interesting, I wonder if that means a different QR code or actual network support with direct integration.

Question on the hard drive. Since SSD's have a fairly limited lifespan, has anyone had to replace the drive yet? I was curious to know if the game is fairly flexible on the drives specs or if its particular to a specific make/model or size drive?

#1767 3 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Thanks. That was an easy fix. Just need to contact JJ about my Oz led strip and I'll be up and running at 100%

Awesome! Glad to hear you got her all dialed in.

I know its a bummer to have to work on a new machine. They way I think about it is that pinball machines are in a way like pianos or slate pool tables... They aren't too fond of being moved and especially don't like being constantly vibrated and jostled for a week while in freight. After such treatment they almost always require a tune up. A machine as complex as WOZ just needs more attention to get back in tune. But once dialed in, it can really be appriciated as the masterpiece that it is.

#1782 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Ok, I'll try to go that route. How do you wire it so that it is switched with the pin power switch and the mods do not stay on all the time? Is there instructions for that? Relays? Go into the power supply and hot wire it? Does JJP have a switched plug somewhere?

This connector here between the power switch and the transformer has switched line power. That's probably where I would tap in.


#1801 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

When you have a non-pinhead over to play some games, how do you describe what to do in WOZ? I love the rules, but they are so complex that I have a hard time describing even short term goals to a newbie. I'm left with wait until you see lock lit and then hit the ball up the ramp; do that three times to start multiball.

Yeah, its tough because even as a pinhead the game is sensory overload at first and until you get over that its hard to even see which shot its guiding you to.

I try to explain it by giving a brief tour of the game using the movie flow since people can relate to the movie fairly easily. Through that I will highlight each section and tell them that it is basically a mini game within the game with different objectives and rewards that relate to that scene in the movie.

If they have a favorite scene from the movie that they want to try to play or seem particularly excited about a section I will explain to them how to start that mode. Otherwise like you I have them to focus on starting ECMB simce that is straightforward and can generate a good amount of excitement.

#1817 3 years ago

Mine came with felt pads for the legs as well.

#1823 3 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Hit MMB tonight for the first time in a while.

Sweet! I have not been able to get that far on the munchkin modes. My wife hit Haunted MB the other night... And I did finally get to battle the witch... Next time I'll get her, was real close but excitement got the better of me.

#1834 3 years ago

I never noticed that about the munchkin cliffy but it certainly explains a few things. I also need to look at my upper magnet as I notice the same wear.

#1840 3 years ago

So in the extra ball fanfare (when awarded, not the earned fanfair)... There sounds like there is a voice burried in there... To me it almost sounds like a belch... Anyone know what that is?

1 week later
#1850 3 years ago

Does photoshop have vector tools these days? If not I'd work on it in illustrator myself.

#1851 3 years ago


My best game to date... Got flipper frenzy, haunted multiball and 3 munchkin modes...

At one point had the following stacked: munckin mode, ECMC, Crystal ball, Haunted Multiball, and Rescue Multiball.

Still didn't melt the stinkin witch tho.

#1853 3 years ago

1,986,--- ish

#1855 3 years ago

Greetings all,

I noticed lately that fom time to time my crystal ball will just display snow/static. At first I thought loose commection but everything is solid... Watching a little closer it seems to occur only when certain modes are active and will during the same game return to normal. I have not yet watched closely enough to determine which specific mode causing it.

Has anyone else experienced this? I'm thinking maybe a corruption in the SD card data? Is there an image of it available anywhere?

.... aaaannd.. after systematically triggering all of the animations I can't reproduce it... So for now I guess it's just random during gameplay. Oh well doesn't seem like any sort of major issue, I'm guessing maybe vibrations during gameplay may cause it. At least it goes away without having to do anything.

#1859 3 years ago

Thanks! I'll try reseating the card, all the connectors are good an tight, but I guess it wouldn't hurt to reseat those as well.

#1868 3 years ago

Nice work!

I would also reccommend bordering the fonts with a small to medium stroke to help them pop. The lines should also be a bit higher contrast and a slightly heavier stroke.

#1878 3 years ago

How easy would it be to try a white font with a black stroke? I think the font could still pop out from the background a little better.

#1885 3 years ago

Yeah! Looks great! Put a fork in it, it's done

#1888 3 years ago

11 x 17 is a good smaller poster size that's a standard paper size out there (Ledger). 18x24 might be a better fit though if you're aspect ratio is closer to letter... plus it's bigger

#1897 3 years ago
Quoted from oohlou:

Joined the club on Friday! Before owning WOZ, I had only played maybe 5 games on it. I chose it because I absolutely love the light show and I wanted a deep pin (my other pins are fast flow). I am having a lot of fun so far but it is kicking my ass! I need to learn to play better. What settings do you guys use? At a minimum I'm going to turn on a ball saver for at least a few seconds. Seems like my WOZ came with pindemption so I'm going to play around with it too...

Congrats! I play a 7.1 degree slope with the outlanes pulled in. Set for 4 ball with special award set to extra ball and added extra ball awards at 100, 200 and 400k. That way if the game is crummy it goes away pretty fast but if I'm hot its extra balls galore.

That really got me on my feet with this game but now my games are getting really long and I fairly often hit battle the witch on ball one so will probably take away a the extra ball awards at score levels and might move the outlanes back to the normal position.

#1905 3 years ago

Good luck but I'm thinking Pinballinreno may be onto something witch checking for low available current at the outlet. To me unless you have a usb controller dying on the motherboard or have dirty contacts moving a usb plug shouldn't have any significant difference (maybe the same performance boost your car gets from attaching an edlebroc sticker on the window).

However if current is low, perhaps at the moment the PC is doing its peripheral search/driver load, the device in question (light controller in this case) has not yet gotten to the point where it can return a ready response to the PC.

I would try powering up for a while when WOZ is the only thing drawing power from the circuit and see if that helps. Also may want to remove any extension cords or power strips from the circuit. My WOZ is plugged into a surge protector directly mounted to the outlet.

#1922 3 years ago

No significant differences. Between the ECLE and standard just what you mentioned (and wood apron). With the RR there are a few additional molded items on the playfield but its all just decorative and nothing that can't be added on.

#1937 3 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Going to update code for an owner this week and they will need a full update. Was 6.06 a full update?

Yes I do believe it is.

#1957 3 years ago

^^^^^^^ This is what I did. No cutting or drilling needed, just using the existing pre-drilled hole.

My only concern is whether or not the hole will still be completely concealed when returning to the normal position since the hole will have widened it slightly from the screw. I think if it ends up a tad bit visible I would be ok with that.

I actually kind of doubt I will ever put it back though. It was sooo brutal before and it still can drain easily enough with a bad shot when brought in.

#1993 3 years ago

Wow! Congrats, so excited to see all these new members. I think I may have to celebrate by trying to melt that damn witch tonight. She taunts me so....

#1994 3 years ago

Any tips for adjusting the witch target?

It is becoming nearly impossible to register a hit, even with a solid shot. When I went into test mode i could easily activate both switches when pushing on the lower half but holding it square in so the switch was all the way back squarely against the rubber pads would not activate either. Pushing a ball against the switch, it would only activate on the very edges.

Those switches look to be a bit burried in there so I was wondering if anyone had any tips. Thanks!

#2009 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Yeah, I did adjust it during actual game conditions. It worked for a bit, and then was off again. I'll keep playing with it. It does seem like each time it spins during a game it is in a slightly different position, which is why I was wondering if there was some mechanical adjustment.

Same here. Even during test mode I find that if i try multiple spins and drops I get a slight variation. I would adjust until I got a perfect drop the. Test 5-6 times... From that I made a final adjustment so now during game the feet drop perfectly 70% of the time, i get a half to partial drop about 20% of the time and maybe 5-10% of the time the house stoos too soon to drop at all.

I figure thats about as good as its going to get with the stock motor... Thats house is a pretty good size model spinning at a decent clip. Stopping in the precise exact same spot seems unlikely short of a beefier stepper motor and gearbox and/or some sort of mechanical stop.

#2011 3 years ago

From what I've read toning down the pops is pretty common. I personally have mine down just a touch. My flippers are stock but I have actually thought about dialing them back a hair as well.

#2020 3 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

WOZ Selfie challenge! Set your game to factory and see how you do.
Post a selfie with your score.
Winner will get a WOZ flyer, JJP decal, JJP shirt(need to check on size but probably XL)

Fun idea! I was going to get some chores done around the house after work tonight... Forget that noise

#2022 3 years ago

Oh also, outlanes are a bit harder to put back to factory... Are we fine keeping those where we have it? Well the right one is easy enough to move back.

#2026 3 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

I would probably come in dead last for this contest, lol.

Lol, don't count yourself as a dead last shoe-in... I've had some real stinkers lately.

#2031 3 years ago

No save... 3 balls.. Extra balls have to be earned the hard way brahahahaha!!

Don't forget to backup your custom settings before resetting (note to self).

#2036 3 years ago

Wow nice score! I didn't know there was an option for full name entry, awesome! mines set for initials... I'll have to look for that option.

#2044 3 years ago

Well this is what I got first game after factory setting reset... Nothing to write home about but I'm happy with it.

image (resized).jpeg

image (resized).jpeg

#2046 3 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

Can not honestly recall, but it will not do anything unless you have the dispenser and dongle along with some tickets to make use of it.

I don't think its selectable unless you have the dongle (never really looked)... If you can activate it then you have it, congrats! No ticket dispenser is required as JJP does sell it without the dispenser for home use.

#2050 3 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

What is the best spinning house and wall drop setting?

I don't think there is one, it just has to be calibrated per machine / location.

#2086 3 years ago


Next week I'm thinking about taking my WOZ over to a small office party (where I work) and ya know... I kinda wish I had pindemption for it so that I could keep it flowing and be able to play without throwing a game to keep people interested.

Its too bad a dongle is required and isn't something that could be activated online. If remotely activated it could even have options for to purchase a temporary or even demo license like Pandora Radio's day pass. A big part holding me back is having never seen or played it.

Anyways... Another question... Not that I'm concerned because its my toy and I will share it with others as I want... Just kind of a philosophical / just how touchy are people thing: When someone takes their game out of their home to be played by others non-commercially for a few hours... Or heck even at a weekend show... Is it still considered "HUO"?

#2100 3 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

What on earth is pindemption, and why would I want it for parties???

Its an alternate game mode designed to turn the game into a ticket dispensing machine, but the software can be used without the ticket hardware for home use.

The reason it sounds like a cool party mode is that the game is timed (ball count irrelevant) and the setup supposedly allows players to advance through some fun modes within that time providing they can make shots.

In short you don't end up with the newbie getting drained in 5 seconds then having to wait for the experienced player to play their 30 minute ball.

#2106 3 years ago

That looks like the OS is going into recovery mode. I would try re-imaging (load the latest release from a thumb drive)

#2122 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Sweet, thanks pimp! I'll look for this next time im playing.
I just checked my audit logs. Tomorrow will mark 1 week of owning this pin. 175 plays on factory. I better slow down

Nah! Your right on pace . After about 4-5 weeks or 1000 plays I took the game off factory settings to 4 ball with a short saver and more extra ball opportunities... Plus brought in those outlanes that were just eating the balls alive.... Game times are now significantly longer and my game count isn't climbing so fast anymore... I'm actually thinking about starting to increase difficulty.... Just as soon as I melt that crazy lady who keeps taunting me.

#2138 3 years ago

When it was posted about the cliffy I took a long hard look at mine because I have the same thing happen occasionally. I never could see any evidence that the cliffy had ever been struck by the ball.

#2141 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

When it was posted about the cliffy I took a long hard look at mine because I have the same thing happen occasionally. I never could see any evidence that the cliffy had ever been struck by the ball.

Ok i took some slow motion videos of failed launches. When I have a chance I will compile them together but it basically seems like the ball generally just isn't stable entering that area. Sometimes it would glance before the cliffy, I did see it graze the cliffy once or twice and sometimes it would hit on the right.

Here is an interesting example:

#2145 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Wow! Great video! That's really interesting. That looked like an absolutely perfect launch with the ball going where it should, but somehow it got all bounced around once it left the metal lane. I've never had this much of an issue launching a ball before. I know sometimes mine definitely hits the block that I indicated. Other times, it hits the cliffy, but that has lessened. I'm not sure if I've experienced what you just posted, but I wouldn't be surprised.
Interestingly, I get way fewer failed launches with the auto plunger. Maybe it is spin from an imperfect hit by the tip of the plunger . . . .

It looks like it just barely glances the right wall and gets deflected just enough to hit something further up there. Yeah, that was definitely the most interesting one but i think pretty reflective of where my ball most commonly ends up on these.

#2147 3 years ago

I'll guve it this much... it certainly adds a randomness to it.

Tomorrow I'll compile and put up a coulple more... one from a bit further back you can actually see the ball wobbling as it goes up the ramp. I think the ramp is designed to help stablize it leading to the drop but isn't always able to.

#2161 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Looks like the ball is already going wild before it gets into the video frame. I'd check your plunger sleeve, tip and rod. Any chance the whole pin is not leveled correctly? And is that a shooter lane cliffy? I don't think my lane looks like that...

Well I used the Clinometer app to level it so it shoud be close but its been a few weeks since last checked. The only cliffy in frame is the munchin edge, everything else in frame is stock, although out of frame I do have the cliffy trough protector installed, but thats well clear of the ball at launch.

You are right that the ball tends to be wild before the ramp, here is a vid slightly further back... when I get home I'd be interested to shoot even further back to see if I can spot the point it goes wild.

#2173 3 years ago

Spent two hours fixing things tonight (upper slingshot rubber broke and adjusting witch target and playing with the shooter, i think playfield just not always centered).... anywhoo finally logged another factory game... this ones pretty darn good for me... I might just keep factory for a while after this.

IMG_4642 (resized).JPG

#2177 3 years ago
Quoted from zutton1:

Ok got another question for owners with decals on cabinet. I know that decals show imperfections in wood if not sanded down. So one side of my pin looks great but the other looks like crap...see pictures. Has anyone else noticed this on their machine? Is this common? Thanks

Yikes! I have never seen anything like that before, that does not look anywhere near normal to me. Is that on a NIB game?

#2189 3 years ago
Quoted from agodfrey:

Bought this here box...

Ooooh that there is a perdy box!

#2194 3 years ago

I think my new settings after this weekend will be:

- 7 second ball saver (just enough to catch those balls you don't even have a chance to touch)
- 3 Ball
- Extra Ball for special
- Otherwise factory.

I find that having a hot ball makes or breaks games for me so 4 or 5 ball and lots of extra ball rewards doesn't help me
Much. The one time I scored 2 mil was mostly from a single ball.... dang, why couldn't I pull that off this weekend

#2201 3 years ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Hmmm ... then again, maybe I shouldn't add a WOZ. Could be like just intending to install PDI glass on one game only.

LOL... It definitely hooks you but great pinball is great pinball no matter who makes it... there are some newer Sterns I still enjoy playing and would love to own someday... of course that being said, I'm not sure I would get the continual draw back I get with WOZ... it just doesn't get old.

#2211 3 years ago
Quoted from clg:

Awesome! It is so sweet when all of the stacks come together like that. And then you can have those games where you are almost there and everything is ready to go and you crash and burn before the stacks start and want to break it. It is a serious rush when it comes together. I have yelled more playing that game than any other. I was screaming at the witch 'die bitch die' when I finally got here lol!

LMAO! Same experience here only I have yet to get that satisfaction from melting her. No other game has had me jumping, yelling, lauging and cursing so much. Its a game that doesn't just give itself up to anyone but once you earn it, it changes personalities and just goes to insanity mode.

Soooo.. i seem to have been a little overzealous layely in my bumping and it appears that my wedding ring had put a couple small chips in the cabinet paint near the left flipper button. Has anyone come out with some sort of protector for that area?

#2216 3 years ago

Winki light up is probably the biggest help lighting wise (have not yet tried the star post ligts but am tempted).

I got the kit from Metzel and still use his light but unfortunately the targets just don't hold up. I have one now from Indypinhead that is CNC carved instead of 3d printed which seems far more durable. I'd recommend his target.

#2237 3 years ago
Quoted from BobC:

it's the witch messing with you ; )
Let us know how it works out

"Don't mess with the game, that's my Job!"

#2243 3 years ago
Quoted from agodfrey:

Anyone else (ECLE or RR) have their lockdown bar powercoat flaking on the receiver (male) end? I figured this would happen eventually. But the part you put into the machine (male end of the lockdown bar) is flaking.
Thinking of some solutions to make sure it doesn't spread. seeing if anyone has a solution.

My side rails had the powder coating flake off where the lock down bar makes contact almost immediately. Its not visible with the lockdown bar in place so as long as it doesn't spread which it hasn't to date, I'm not too worried.

#2244 3 years ago

Dang! You're a mad man! Next thing we'll hear you made it to SWOTR.

#2250 3 years ago

Similar experience only I haven't really gone through a whole lot of effort with support on it other than asking if touchup paint was available but got no response to that question. I figured it was a long shot anyway since my understaning is that they are powder coated, not painted.

As far as the play in the lockdown bar that seemed fairly normal to me as every pin seems to have some wiggle in the lockdown bar but the difference here is that most don't have painted/powder coated rails to worry about.

I suppose ideally the lock down bracket could have been installed 1/8"+ or so lower in the cabinet. That would make for a tigher fit and perhaps also improve the contact angle of the bar edge against the rails. At least then the front edge would sit on the rails instead of digging into them.

I may try some larger felt pieces next and put them on the rails instead of onnthe under side of the bar, perhaps green felt with spray adhesive on the back so that it can stick out from under the bar without being too obvious.

#2252 3 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

So, my WOZ didn't have the ruby red slippers that go on the lower flippers when I bought it. I ordered some from Joe at PinballStar. He recommended Loctite 4011 to secure them, but it's about $50 a bottle.
Can you guys recommend a suitable alternative for securing the docorative slippers to the flippers?

I know you already bought the slippers but for the price of that locktite you can get a factory pair of bats with the slippers already attached from JJP.

I would simply use the two part pastic epoxy they sell at every hardware store.

#2264 3 years ago

Excellent summary!!

On the drama side, I also love how drama is added through the lighting. He really makes full use of those RGB lights and has a good understanding of theatrical lighting.

A few quick examples but there are many other more subtle effects:
- When the ball goes to an upper playfield the playfield colors will collapse towards that area turning Sophia.
- Certain characters will momentarily take over the color scheme of the entire playfield, some will even push another back (good bs evil)
- When crystal ball is ready, hitting the targets sends. Ripple through the playfield colors as it changes selected mode.
- Of course every mode has its own lighting scheme.

#2276 3 years ago
Quoted from clg:

Check the EOS switch on the flipper

Its interesting that it would go dead after three rapid flips though? Is that the CPU detecting an EOS fail and killing power to that flipper? If so might show in audits?

Also, upper and lower flippers are on separate switches... wouldn't hurt to look at that.

#2280 3 years ago

Order one from the man himself: http://www.passionforpinball.com/WOZ.htm

My munchkin started to chip as well before I got around to installing the cliffy but not bad and not visible especially with the cliffy installed. I did add a drop of super glue in the chip to hopefully prevent any further spread now that the cliffy is protecting it.

#2295 3 years ago

Congrats GorfFan and Welcome!!!

I totally agree with your sentiments on JJP games, WOZ in particular is just simply in a league of its own.

I feel sorry for those who have dismissed it as slow/lumbering/etc. I can only imagine they played on a machine that was not well setup because I find the game to be very quick and certainly has tons more action and replayability than any other recently released game I've played. I think the tide of sentiment is shifting though as more people have a chance to play on machines with a good slope and current software.

Currently saving up for JJP3... hopefully will have enough by the time I finally get a chance to play it which I'm not expecting to have the chance until next spring sometime.

I'm about 4 months in...still love it and play almost every day, do not regret buying it for one second and would do it again in a heartbeat.

#2309 3 years ago

I just had the same rubber break myself. I simply removed the mini playfield and used it as an opportunity to make sure everything was nice and clean under there... it was, but gotta be certain

#2322 3 years ago

I replaced with a 2 1/2 whit because that was all I had on me at the moment. It was a little loose but is still functional.

While I had removed the mini pf, I did not find a need to remove or even loosen the ramp, I just squeezed the rubber through

#2326 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

How'd you get the plastic piece above the slinger off

I just carefully pushed the rubber through between it and the ramp. The tigest spot was the bottom corner (towards the front of the machine) since that almost touches the ramp but there is no post under that end so it flexed easily.

Maybe not the best way and i would not want to do it in reverse but it worked.

Looking at it now I'm not sure I could have done that with the mind pf still on. I guess if loosend and pushed a 1/4" over or so.

#2328 3 years ago

Yes it is a single unit. JJP parts/support has them. Your games in menu manual has the part number on page C-51.

Since it sounds like it might be an issue with a single SMD it *might* be repairable if you can solder surface mount components. The safer more assured and quicker route will be to call JJP tomorrow and order one.

#2334 3 years ago

For me it was definitely easier to take the munchkin playfield off the second time around (under 5 minutes). I just wish you the cabling was routed a little differently so you wouldn't have to cut and replace zip ties to do so. I will try the loosening method next time around.

That upper slingshot is a time bomb lol. I guess thinking about it, with a ball up there it does fire a lot more frequently and rapidly than regular slingshots so I shouldn't have been as surprised as i was to see the rubber so chewed up. At least it's not too difficult to replace, it just looks intimidating being so buried in there.

#2349 3 years ago

Is that simply sticky backed stuff from a craft store? I may try it myself

#2360 3 years ago

Looks nice! I may have to go with those myself.

Also I tried Nokoro's ball launch felt fix. So far so good, about 20 plunges in including auto launches all successful.

Here is what I used, but I'm wondering if the hard felt might be better? Got this at Hobby Lobby.

IMG_4681 (resized).JPG

#2363 3 years ago

Oh so close to melting the witch today... made the shots, trapped the ball, went around the house and *DOH!!* missed the witch, then drained. *sob*

Anyway, just a comment on the music in that mode... absolutely incredible! Especially that climatic buildup to the final shot. Wow! It really is the soundtrack to what is happening on the playfield in the moment.

#2367 3 years ago

Welcome!! 3 ball is the standard but many of us have had it set to 5 while getting a feel for the table. I'm back at 3 now after our recent factory setting challenge which was a blast.

Feel free to ask if you have any questions, helpful group here.

#2372 3 years ago

You can also backup the current settings to a usb stick and perform a factory setting reset. Then adjust from there how you like the game or restore back from the backup if you want to go back.

Yeah, start to confirm reset type actions.

#2375 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Very helpful. I didn't even know you can turn off the trees. Is that how you get that skill shot?
I'm a little overwhelmed by how much is here. Where is the best place to read about rules BC the soft copy manual is hard to read....
And 6.06 is the latest code right?

You're good on the code. Here is a good read on the rules:

Turning off the trees helps get in to collect haunted forest, with factory settings you can only turn them off after haunted is ready. The haunted skill shot is from the upper flipper on the main playfield, straight between the trees... very tough shot.

Also Jersey Jack's website has a PDF of the manual available.

#2378 3 years ago

Thats just a standard light the lanes to increase bonus multiplier with the difference that the skill shot lane is locked in so you can't change the lit lanes until the skill shot is done.

There is also a slingshot in there under the munchkin land playfield that should bounce the ball around giving opportunities to increase your multplier.

The standard muliplyer isn't worth a whole lot typically though. The HOADC multiplier which is much harder to get can be worth a considerable sum.

#2385 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

OK then what is the purpose of me changing the lights with the flipper?

If you see the ball is about to go down a lane that is alreay lit you can quickly change it so that you can gain the extra bonus multiplier. Give it a few tries glancing up at the lower right quadrant of the display as soon as the ball goes through a lane. You'll see pretty quickly whats going on.

#2390 3 years ago

Nice score! Usually when I hit those kinds of numbers its from a great munchkin mode along with a multiball and a HOADC multiplyer. Its awarded as a bonus so watch for it there and whatever you do don't tilt

#2397 3 years ago

You can set the ball saver for shoot again to any amount of time you want up to a max. I have mine set for 7 seconds. I also moved my outlanes in. There's still plenty of action there but they are no longer the ball sucks they used to be.

Big points are all about stacking modes. If you haven't already check out the WOZ strategy thread for some ideas.

Never owned a TZ myself but love the game and have many hours in it. I will say that while there are a lot of similarities and both games are more strategic, of the two there is more flow to WOZ imo. And of course WOZ is a feast for the senses.

#2402 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Latest code is 6.06 right

Yep, but the factory default is still zeo grace time so you'll have to find and set it in the settings if you want a ball saver.

#2405 3 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I'm still having problems with my crystal ball spinner switch and would appreciate some help...
Previously, the switch acted intermittently - some games it was perfectly normal, other games it would not work at all. It was either working or not.
Last weekend I swapped out the switch for a new one. It was the same part number. I played a couple games, and it was working. I went to play a couple this morning, and it was not working at all. Same issue as before. Even going through the switch matrix test, it does the same thing. It either works perfectly or not at all.
I swapped the switch and diode, connection is secure. What else could the problem be?

At this point i would hook a multimeter up to the switch and test with that so that you can confirm with certainty that the switch is good. If the switch is good you may have a wiring/connection issue elsewhere (I would suspect wiring before a matrix issue since it's intermittent)... possibly in the switch connector itself?

For that I would leave the switch held in an activated position and start touching/wiggling connectors in line with it startinf from the switch while in test mode. If that switch starts firing as you move something thats your bad connector.

Oh, and make sure you have HV disabled by leaving the coin door open while doing this.

#2409 3 years ago

Hey, I really like that yellow on the lower flippers, nice job!

#2413 3 years ago

It will grab the ball on hurry ups or when capture dorothy is lit. I'm not sure why YBR isn't always lit.

#2419 3 years ago

Try shooting with the toy off. Ball instability is pretty common even on machines without the toto toy. I put up some slow motion videos showing how if the balls trajectory is not absolutely perfect going into the shooter lane ramp it will not make it around the orbit, instead hitting the wall and bouncing around under munchkin land.

Lots of therories and possible solutions in this thread. To summarize:
- replace shooter tip
- make sure playfield centered
- general randomness
- add some felt before and after HOADC.. i tried soft felt which seems to have improved things but not completely. Going to try stiffer felt next.

#2421 3 years ago

Well, if you have already confirmed that its toto (that pesky dog) then I would add some sort of spacer to give more space. Probably a small washer or two would be enough.

I was just thinking that shooter issues are pretty common even without toto so it might only appear to be caused by toto.

#2451 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Pat:

I've had woz about a year, and I still don't have a good way to make the Horse of a different colour shot...
Any tips? Right flipper or left?

First off... I'm pretty terrible at that shot myself but when I have managed to make (other than blind randomness during multiball) it its one of these three ways:

1. Right flipper backhand
2. Left flipper slapshot from tipish (with right up immediately of course). by that I mean not a full flip, not sure if using the right term.
3. Hold right flipper open while in the slings and pray.

#2461 3 years ago

That site has some really interesting products that seem well priced. Whats their quality / service like?

#2472 3 years ago

Nice work! I like that better than any of the other witches well mods.

#2473 3 years ago

Welcome to the club jason!

Yeah, I had a similar experience. The first few times I played it was always rushed at a show with the game not necessarily setup great and of course you could not hear it, but I did play it enough to know that I liked it and of course my wife loved it. Getting it home where I could really get to know the game was eye opening. By far my favorite game now, it is firmly fixed in my permanent collection.

#2476 3 years ago

Give them a call, i believe that they do. There are also factory pre-cut mylar available to protected those areas (and others).

Boy thats a lot of wear, was it a routed game and/or did the previous owner never clean the playfield?

#2481 3 years ago

Dang, how many games are on it?

#2490 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

That later point in time could have been years later.
In any case, I hope he gets it straightened out.

My thoughts as well. It looks look to have been well played and enjoyed.

Playfield pictures beyond the chips are a good reminder for anyone unsure about the importance of regular cleaning, wax and fresh balls.

#2493 3 years ago

Sweet score! Love those games when it all lines up.

So today I gave the playfield a quick wipe down (saw a piece of lint) and cleaned the invisiglass. Thought I would share what I use. My best friends dad had a art & frame shop and this is what they used for all of their glass and got me hooked on it.

Its not the official sparkle or whatever but its ammonia free.

IMG_4706 (resized).JPG

#2498 3 years ago

Gorf, please call JJP when you have a chance. I think we have all experienced the inefficiency of their online ticket system, it seems to eat issues and you will never hear back. You will get immediate and through service by calling and speaking with them over the phone.

Shippers are not kind to these games. They get slammed, bumped, droped and vibrated for hours on end on their way to you. Some issues as a result of that are normal and JJP does a wonderful job of getting it all sorted out... when you call.

FYI: i sometimes experience the same thing with my castle door, but it takes a good solid hit. If it were happening frequently i would turn down the power to that flipper.

Also some audio tearing does happen. I think it was worse in earlier versions of the software... but what your describing sounds different than simple audio tearing?

1 week later
#2512 3 years ago
Quoted from BowlingJim:

Joined the club yesterday.

Congrats! Without the topper and with that low ceiling, the game has an interesting halo over it. . Nice TZ too!

#2515 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Hmmm. I don't have the topper, and I don't think I have a glow like that. Is there a setting to turn the topper on and off?

There is a topper brightness setting but more likely the LED strip was removed or disconnected or burnt out.

#2520 3 years ago
Quoted from twindad:

New owner of a 75 WOZ - manufacture date of 9-12-16. Are all 75th WOZs signed by Jack?

Awesome and welcome to the club!

I'm not certain if they all are but I know many are. My ECLE was signed on the backglass. The impression I get is that Jack's willing to sign just about anything so if you really want it signed and its not already, just bring your backglass with you to the next big pinball show and catch him there. I imagine he will be at as many as he can this year demoing the new game.

#2522 3 years ago

For me the best mod by far is the lit winkie target (sold here on pinside market not online), followed closely by adding a light under the state fair ballon.

#2530 3 years ago

Try adjusting the winki down position so its a little higher. I would at first have balls settle on top of the winki target but after adjusting it have never had that happen again. It's adjusted by a screw at the bottom of the assembly.

#2533 3 years ago
Quoted from elf70:

The ball getting wedged while the Winkie tried to reset to the up position seemingly had nothing to do with Winkie resting height. No ball had ever even stopped there on its own. It is as even as it gets but not truly flat it seems - it appears that the target is taller in the back than the front by just a couple hairs - at least relative to the playfield.

Huh, I'll have to try that with the glass off. It seems strange though since that coils is set for a momentary pulse regardless of switch position that it would hold on. I could see it rapid firing but there should be enough time for the ball to escape between pulses. If it can be replicated under controlled circumstances sounds like a good bug to report.

#2541 3 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

I'm not in this club but I'm trying.

Woot! You won't regret it.

I think I'm officially out of my honeymoon period (lasted longer than any other pin) as I can now go for a day or two without craving a game.

Still though, this game does not get old for me. Coming back to play is still just as enjoyable, challenging and exciting as ever. I can say with confidence that it has secured permanent place in my home.

#2545 3 years ago

Yeah they said game is complete. Future updates for fixes. To me it felt close prior to that update so I would not expect to see much of anythinf new now.

#2548 3 years ago

Yeah, it does generate a good amount of fan noise. I'm thinking its the cpu fan generating the most noise.

If your looking for 12v to run fans for the pc boards, etc... look no further than the PC power supply.

#2555 3 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Tricks to hitting throne room shot....
anyone have any?

Yeah, don't have extra ball lit... I swear I hit it all day long but as soon as I want it.... DENIED!

#2558 3 years ago

I had an HP PC once that was nearly silent. What they did was use a massive fan that ran at a much lower RPM with a funnel/cone attached to the actual air input it was sucking from that was about half the size of the fan.

I figure that way they probably got a similar volume of air movement from the far lower RPM (thereby quieter) fan.

#2560 3 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

I built an enclosed cabinet for all my home theater equipment that also has an xbox, dvr, and lots of other gear in there -- there are about 6 120mm Noctua fans used to draw air in/out. A bit overkill, but the temp stays pretty close to room temp in there with everything on. The best part is, it's virtually silent. Those fans don't move much air relative to other 120mm fans, but if you have the space, why not go big. The WOZ PC case is aluminum, so that would help quite a bit with heat dissipation.
I'll pull the fan when I get some time and see what the specs are.

Thanks! Those look like nice fans, Just picked one up anlong with a PWM controller for my theatre cabinet. I think one should cover it for my needs as the spec says those fans will move up to 10 CFM.

#2566 3 years ago

I think you'll find it... the right deal takes time. I would love a TZ domeday, but wouldn't give up WOZ for one.

#2570 3 years ago

I'm kind of curious about those as well. HUO I don't think it would make a huge difference but if it doesn't impact gameplay and looks good why not.

I guess my biggest concerns would be about dirt getting under it and how they hold up long term.

#2575 3 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

I've seen this said a few times -- is the ball getting air born and dinging the upper playfield? Just curious "why" -- haven't seen anything there yet.

Yes, the ball does get airborne in that area. Usually from a glancing hit to glenda or a missed ramp shot. The edge isn't the big concern but a hard hit on the edge can cause the top layer if the plywood to chip off and thats your upper playfield art/play surface.

#2579 3 years ago

They just lay on top right, no adhesive?

#2589 3 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

My Winkie target is down for the count and my game is only 5 weeks old. The target has not popped up for a week, so it's stuck in the down position. There aren't any other errors with the game that are relevant to this issue.
I'm brand new to pin ownership and feel over whelmed since just opening the play field is intimidating. Is there a kind soul out there who can give me specific instructions on what to do?
I've filed a support ticket with JJ, and already got an auto email reply saying they got my support request.

Just to add to others comments since this is your first pin. Until you're very comfortable (and even then), always have the power off. If the game is powered up at least leave the coin door open so that the coil power is disabled (unless you are specifically testing coils).

Also once you have it up spend some time studying all of the components... look at the front then find the under side of the components. The drop target can be manually reset and dropped, study how it moves, latches, activates, etc. In no time you will be very comfortable with everything. Everything individually is really basic, its just intimidating because there are so many things.

#2606 3 years ago

Yeah the JJP diagnoostics screens are light years beyond anything else out there right now. Don't worry if getting hit by a silver ball flying across the playfield can't hurt thr switches you can't hurt them with your fingers (unless you really try).

Do as bhwolf suggests, even if they are unrelated switches just to get a feel for what the matrix screen is showing you.

#2611 3 years ago

I'll look if someone doesn't beat me to it. It probably was not forgotten but shipping tends to shake things loose.

#2638 3 years ago

I think I would get one if my Plan was to route the game for a while to ease the expense. Then once I recovered enough to bring it home remove the protector.

#2641 3 years ago
Quoted from Docb8456:

I am new here and sorry if a repost, but my Woz 75 came a week ago and I am wondering if anyone else has the back glass on the top being rust color and orange. Mine is that way and all the pics I see online seem to look reddish with a purpleish tone. I think they did not make it properly, as it does not match the red theme at all. Also, were the numbers not consecutive, because mine is in the 300s yet some older posts show some in the 700s


I know ECLE "numbers" were definitely not consecutive, although i think serial numbers are still... not sure about the RR numbers.

#2671 3 years ago

That there is for the external audio jack on the back of the machine. It plugs into a short patch cord which plugs into the computer box.

IMG_4810 (resized).JPG

IMG_4811 (resized).JPG

#2673 3 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Thanks Merccat. That's what I figured, but my game definitely doesn't have that patch cable in it. I assume it's just a 3.5mm headphone cable with male ends on each side?

Yep, thats the one.

#2687 3 years ago

I use my extra WOZLE topper as a decoration on the top of my cube at work. It's an office favorite.

#2696 3 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

When did you order your machine? I ordered a Ruby Red on October 4th. Two weeks ago I emailed JJP and they said "it's coming off the line, should ship this Thursday or Friday (October 28th)". Nothing. So I emailed again November 8th and they said "it came off the line today, we'll contact you about it this Thursday or Friday". Well the factory just closed I believe and ... nothing.
I'm a bit afraid that something went wrong in the production at this point. Would be really sad to get a NIB broken machine.

Could be many things... perhaps the person talking with you only knew that some WOZ had rolled off the line that day but didn't check to see who was ahead of your order... or perhaps there was a quality control issue that was found at the end of the line... or perhaps thats a standard answer to excited and eager customers.

When I ordered, I worked with Jen, the game was in stock at the time and it literally was on a truck within an hour of my order being placed.

#2700 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Agreed. I think the crystal ball was a cool idea on paper, but the images always seem a step behind or out of sync. It would be great if they could polish it up a bit with one more code release, but I'm not holding my breath.

I think the difficulty with it is how it was implemented. The screen isn't actually run by the computer. It has preloaded clips stored locally in it on a flash card and the computer tells it what clips to play... however its up to the crystal ball to actually do it, and it may not feel like playing the requested clip at the requested time.

When it came to hobbit they ditched that idea in favor of an actual second display run by the PC.

#2709 3 years ago

It only take about 5-10 minutes to do and its fully automatic, no need to wait.

#2712 3 years ago
Quoted from bearsfan27:

Was probably going to buy it from Borygard so didn't really want to buy it until complete. Waiting for every bugged to get worked. Or is that never going to happen?

I'm confused, the update is free to download, why would you have to buy it?

If its internet connectivity I wouldn't mind preparing a thumb drive and mailing it back to you if you sent me one.

#2720 3 years ago

WOZLE with build date 12/15. Light boards are screened 7v but looks like there was a factory post-build fix applied to all of the boards so not sure if the latest have that as well. Regardless, have not experienced a single issue.

#2724 3 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Are you saying the light boards have been updated recently? If so, I hope they found an alternative for the discontinued chips they were using in WOZ.

It would be interesting to see if someone with boards marked 2.0 could snap a couple pics.

So my boards are not 2.0, but appear to have had a post production factory fix applied. It looks like they are now using this controller (if I'm looking at things right):

I wonder if this is fix is equivalent to the 2.0 boards.

IMG_4822 (resized).JPG

IMG_4833 (resized).JPG

#2726 3 years ago

Ok that would make more sense.

#2785 3 years ago
Quoted from wtatumjr:

Make sure the leaf switch to the Winkie is positioned properly and no screws missing. If not the Winkie will keep trying to reset and might overheat the coil.

There's also a bug in 6.06 that can potentially lock the winki coil on and melt it but its hard to trigger normally. However if the winki switch is not working properly I can see how that bug could more easily manifest itself even without a stuck ball and everything would appear normal while your coil sat there melting.

#2796 3 years ago
Quoted from Docb8456:

The bottom half of the lighting went out from the right midfield flipper down, the only light still lit on the bottom half is the wizard. I checked all the connection and all seems ok, what do you suggest I do while waiting for jjp response

Identify the problem board (first board in the chain not working) and bypass it. Haven't had to do it myself but I believe there is some info in the manual to help and others here could elaborate more if you like.

#2798 3 years ago

Oh what a world, what a world!


IMG_4839 (resized).JPG

#2801 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Always play if first, then adjust. There are differences and adjustments that vary a bit on the assembly line.

Tweaks will also depend on your environment. WOZ seems sensitive to local power variations so you may have to adjust a few things up or down accordingly. I'm set almost entirely factory myself but did have to bump up my ball trough kicker.

Personally, a physical asjustment I like is to have my outlanes moved in on this game... they are like ball vacuums on factory. Even moved in a bad shot can still easily go straight into them but at least you have a chance.

#2813 3 years ago

Another place to look is in the coin box. Thats where the pricing sticker was for mine which goes in basically the same area.

I'm not sure if the drill holes necessary indicate something is missing. Could have been a template mis-alignment or more likely a component got changed after they had made the cabinet requiring different mounting holes to be placed. As long as everything inside is secure I would not worry.

Check your playfield for missing screws, my castle upper playfield was missing a mounting screw and I didn't notice until after it has been 30 days... it was only a few bucks but hey, shoulda had it.

#2815 3 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

I may be wrong, but didn't they originally do RR as a LE (numbered) but then removed the restriction making the rest unnumbered?

That would be interesting but I have not heard anything like that. I do believe though that the first 1000 standards were numbered and of course the ECLE's are strictly numbered.

#2823 3 years ago
Quoted from audihere:

For the lighted Winkie drop down target (Mezel Mods or Indypinhead), it would be great if they offered an addition switch or something that would only turn the LED illumination ON when the drop target is in the UP position.

Interesting idea. I kind of like the additional light back there regardless... but along these lines you could also possibly rig it to change color depending on up or down.

#2827 3 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Do you really need the cliffy on the the mini playfield above lolli targets?

Yes. Plus it looks great too. I suppose you could also buy a spare munchkin play-field.

#2836 3 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

I ended up finding my game number and free play tags. The game number was in a little envelope on the side of the box, and the free play tag was under the coin box after I removed the whole thing
And then today I got a 417,000! Not an amazing score but it felt great. Had a nice Crystal Ball and ECMB stack. After finishing ECMB I immediately drained out my last ball because I was too stoked XD love this game!

Ah ha! You've got the sickness! Careful, seems to be highly contagious.

1 week later
#2876 3 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

My game is absolutely level left-to-right, and exactly 6.5 degrees in pitch. Witch constantly throws the ball SDTM and to the left outlane. I guess by "constantly" I mean at least once every third game. It's not every ball. But it's definitely enough that I'm shouting #@%$ing bull@%#$ in my basement a lot.

She used to constantly send the ball straight into the right outlane for me. Between that and the haunted bumpers doing the same from time to time... I literally played three games in a row once where all three balls were hopelessly flung straight into the outlane... I finally moved the outlane in.

Now she's much more tame. She'll still send it straight into the outlane from time to time but mostly it just scares me and is recoverable.

#2885 3 years ago

Congrats on the WOZ! Sorry about the decals, I'm sure they will make it right though. My ECLE had a scratch on the monitor when I got it. I felt bad complaining because it was pretty small but it was one of those things thats hard to see but once you do see you have a hard time unseeing it. Regardless, they sent out a new monitor right away. I'd like to think my original monitor got recycled into one of the DI prototypes

#2900 3 years ago

Yep, there are 3 light strips each matches their respective topper.

ECLE: green center with orange-red segments attached to the sides
Standard: all green
RR: all white

RGB would have been neat but with the ECLE having two colors it would have meant individually controlled RGB and all that added expense. Standard single color led's get the job done just fine.

Good idea gooing with the 75th topper too, I personally like that one a lot better than the emerald city topper.

#2914 3 years ago

I've never had any issues with my LED's but I agree having reasonable solutions available for the future would be ideal.

I totally appreciate JJP's exchange program, but with you that its not ideal (cost or down time).

While the drivers are discontinued, if a single led goes out doesn't that point more towards the individual SMD, which while not the easiest thing to replace for 5 bucks vs 70, I'd do that all day long.

#2925 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I'm still not following. Does this affect JJP or just those who want to fix the boards themselves?

This impacts us who want to repair it ourselves.

I'm sure JJP (and more likely the board manufacturer) has a plentiful stockpile of them for any foreseeable builds. Should supply become low enough to become expensive for them I'm sure they could whip up a redesign that uses currently available components.... but edventually those will be end of life too..

Such is the state of modern elecronics and the era of packaged components.

#2936 3 years ago
Quoted from BowlingJim:

How much did you have to pay for the playfield? JJP quoted me $150 for an unpopulated one.

I seemed to remember seeing them somewhere around the 300 mark... can't remember exactly just felt it was pretty reasonable.

#2954 3 years ago

Probably different motor ratings. Is there a tag on the motor to compare?

1 week later
#2980 3 years ago

Yep, these guys do not like to be shipped at all but I haven't had any issues after sorting out initial issues and re-adjustments.

I will say that this game does need to be adjusted almost perfectly to play consistently and it did take me a good amount of tinkering before I got everything just how I like it. Myself, I like to tinker so that was perfectly fine by me.