Just noticed myself! Downloads at https://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/support/
I can't find any "USB backup" option in the v1.19 code my WoZ is running. Just got it last night, I'm pretty sure the prior/original owner never updated it since 2013 when it shipped! Hopefully the upgrade to v7.01 goes smooth tonight.
Anyone have suggestions on what I can do about this led issue? LEDs dim and freeze. It seems to be triggered (and sometimes resolved) by flipping the munchkinland flipper.
7.5v boards, and I’ve got W6 disabled and bypassed in this demo video, but I also isolated the game to only W6 and it does the same, no amount of bypassing various boards seems to be changing anything.Added 84 days ago:
Thank you kind pinsider for the PM with suggestion. The issue was in fact LED wiring too near coil wires and the interference between the two causing the lighting to go down. Used some zip ties to re-route and separate them at various points and the problem is "resolved"!
Quoted from pinballinreno:
Did you disable the bypassed boards in the service menu?
Yes. That seems to just renumber the addressing so the correct lamps light when a board is bypassed. Also removed power from all bypassed boards just in case they are somehow dragging voltage down on the circuit.
I was reading down the thread and was going to suggest nail polish paint, most of it is enamel and the gel stuff is even harder cure. Best part it includes the touch up brush!
Anyone have part numbers (Digi-Key?) for the correct 2 circuit molex's in WOZ? Example, the connectors used on this:
Contact JJP and see if they’ll do you better in the shipping...that seems high for a part that fits in USPS envelope.
My theories for its common failure are:
1. The older design of the LED strip didn’t have heat shrink on the far end of the LED strip, and thus possibly prone to “grounding/shorting out” on the metal U channel it sits in..
2. It’s confined location builds up too much heat in the somewhat sensitive LEDs themselves, not allowing adequate airflow for cooling.
Either way, replacing it will most likely fix your issue. If you do buy a strip of green LEDs, you’ll have a lifetime supply of fixes. If I recall correctly it’s only 3 LEDs on the strip!
Some of the problems with the old boards have to do with interference from nearby EMI sources that cross onto the communication wires between the boards and aren't failures of the boards themselves. Moving the wires around can actually resolve lighting issues in these cases. One way to tell if interference may be your issue and not a bad board/wire is if power cycling the game restores full lighting functionality until you play it and flip some, and then after some gameplay half your lighting dies out, and may or may not come back by itself...until you power cycle again.
Source: Resolving my ECLE issues with some help from folks around here when JJP support stopped replying to me.
Umm, there are no wall nuts on the inter-board communication wires I'm talking about moving away from EMI sources.
Quoted from jasonbar:
Please elaborate on wall nuts fixing some light board issues that manifest inconsistently after some gameplay but then resolve after cycling the power.
The issue and workaround I described has nothing to do with wall nuts and everything to do with EMI in a pinball and it’s negative effects on serial lines controlling the addressable LEDs. EMI (say from a coil firing) causes communication to be disrupted (noise on the line) and the software/boards don’t recover gracefully. That’s why power cycling the game temporarily resolves it. If it doesn’t, it’s not the same issue. Interestingly in my case, early versions of code (1.x) presented the issue as a white flash across all the LEDs, but later versions (6.x/7.x) exhibits total temporary failure in effected lighting and downstream lights, and only recovered with a few scenarios, power cycle being 100% reliable. I suspect they changed some of the USB interface code between those versions causing the difference in visible behavior.
I assume JJP attempted to fix this EMI issue with “buffered” boards, but that just treated the symptoms and not the cause, so they abandoned the old hardware design for a new one using Ethernet cabling which is twisted to specifically avoid EMI/cross talk.
Would be ecstatic to be enlightened otherwise with details on what I got wrong, but it seems JJP is mum on this issue. Perhaps because an argument could be made that it’s a design flaw and not a component failure.
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