(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

5 years ago

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  • 9,868 posts
  • 533 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by WhiskeyTango
  • Topic is favorited by 239 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (5 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (3 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (10 months ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (10 months ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (10 months ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (10 months ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (8 months ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1057 4 years ago

Joining the club! Got tired of waiting on GB to come out, and ordered a new WOZ 75th to be delivered next week. Being I am originally from Kansas, it will fit nicely with the home motif!

#1058 4 years ago

Would like to hear your thoughts on the available Cliffy protectors for WOZ and whether or not you have them installed? I realize all playfields will wear over time, but is there a need right out of the box?


#1063 4 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

I am in about the same position as you. I am probably a couple of months away from deciding and placing an order. I'm trying to decide between WOZ and the Hobbit but I am already doing some preliminary research. Prices are all over the place online. The best price appears to be Joe @ Pinballstar at $8000 for a standard. Next seems to be Automated at $8500 for a standard with a shaker and Invisiglass. Most expensive is JJP at $8500 (no shaker or Invisiglass, those are $500 extra). Shipping can make or break who is the best.

Got mine from automated. Don't go by the price on the website.....call Mike and ask him for any pricing specials. I called all of the distributors and he had the best package price. He was the same base as a couple of others, but he also threw in shipping to my front door. I don't know if this is standard across the board, but he also includes a full manual and an extra set of plastics. Don't forget to add sales tax if you buy local.

#1067 4 years ago
Quoted from Mike_J:

Automated will do 9K delivered for the RR.


#1095 3 years ago

New code Multiball got a little too intense for TOTO last night............


2 weeks later
#1117 3 years ago
Quoted from clg:

I put the cliffy on and I don't think I have ever had a ball hit on it.

I have about 200 plays on my RR and I put a full set of Cliffy's on this weekend. When I got the Munchkinland removed, I could see several very small dings along the bottom edge. Admittedly, I had to look really close, but I can see how it would chew things up over time. Note: The cliffy behind the Winkie Guard was not for the timid! lol

#1123 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Hi all. My new WoZ is coming tomorrow. Are there any adjustments that most people find they need to make that I should be on the look out for? Things like sling and flipper power settings and the like?

The only thing I had to adjust was the lower switch for the monkey. Basically, he didn't come down far enough to lock on the ball and he would drop it half of the time. Just had to bend the lower switch arm so the monkey came down a hair farther.

#1166 3 years ago

This may be covered somewhere, but what do you all do (if anything) to protect the flipper button area on your WOZ games? I have a RR that I would like to protect.

Thanks in advance

#1183 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

Is the full set of Cliffy's "required" on this game? I'm getting the Munchkin Land one, but not sure about the rest. I'm skipping the magnet and rollover ones because they really make the playfield look tacky. But the holes...Yay/nay?

I put the ones on the holes and the Munchkin land, and I am also with you on the rollover and magnets.....I just kept those for a later date. I will say the guard behind the winkie target is not for the timid, and takes a little bit of work to get into place. In all honesty, if I had it to do over again, I think I would just do the Munchkinland and forget the rest. Not sure they do much good.

#1191 3 years ago
Quoted from Pindufus:

Don't worry about installing the protectors. It's not too hard. Even a Pindufus can do it.
I rented a mechanical stair lift dolly and got it up my staircase with no problem. Without that, it probably would have taken three men and a mule to get it up the stairs. It's heavy!

Yes, I will agree these games are solid and very heavy....but I probably wouldn't have it any other way. Removing the Munchkinland playfield really isn't that bad. Removing the mounting screws is very easy...it is just the wiring that is intimidating. Just take your time and note where every plug goes. The removal and installation is less than 15 minutes on either side. The drilling is very easy and quick....just make sure you put tape or some other depth gage on the bit so you don't drill through the playfield. I use a piece of plastic tubing over the bit to limit how deep it can drill. Trust me, the Winkie target hole protector was MUCH harder and time consuming to install.

#1238 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Thinking about it, it probably makes the whole game really secure for shipment. I just think there should have been a note about it. It would have saved me a couple of minutes of frustration trying to push the playfield back in and wondering why it wasn't going.

There was a note in mine that clearly stated to remove the packing foam before operating the game

#1240 3 years ago

Anyone else get their game with chips in the invisiglass where the lockdown bar lugs go through? They really don't affect anything other than once in a while they will sluff off a splinter....I'm guessing from the glass rubbing on those lugs during play. May have to get a diamond polisher and smooth the edge back out.

#1267 3 years ago
Quoted from wtatumjr:

The way I understand it the monkey picks up the ball and deposits it in the correct place but the correct place isn't holding it. My WOZ is 120 miles away now but the way i remember the monkey releases the ball by cutting off the upper magnet. A lower magnet should activate to "catch" the ball. It sounds like your lower magnet is not activating. Mine did this because a screw on one of the monkey switches came out so make sure each of the upper and lower monkey switches have 2 screws in each. My whole switch would pivot causing the sequence to malfunction. Otherwise check with Frank or Loyd.

There is no lower magnet. If you look at the edge of the upper playfield behind the door, (if you are looking at the machine from the front, it would be on the right side behind the right door) there should be a thin rubber strip stuck there, kind of like a speed bump. The monkey drops the ball behind the door, and the speed bump should keep the ball from rolling back onto the field once the Monkey lets go of it. I'm on the road, or I would send pics. Either you are missing the rubber strip.....and in that case just use a piece of stick on weatherstrip from any hardware store. Or more likely the monkey is not going up far enough and you may have to adjust the switch. He is probably dropping the ball on top of the rubber strip. The monkey should go all of the way up and hide behind the door. It should drop the ball well behind the door and past the speed bump. Take the glass off and go to the diagnostic menu and run the monkey mech....watch closely where it stops when it gets to the top. If it needs adjusted, there are 2 possible things. 1...the upper switch is loose. You will need to pull the monkey mech from the back (very easy to do) and tighten the screws on the micro switch. If the switch is tight, you can adjust the actuating lever on the switch by bending it so the monkey has to go a bit higher before it activated the switch. But as I said, look at the edge behind the door first, to make sure the rubber strip is there and where the monkey would be dropping the ball.

I circled the area for the rubber strip....sorry I made the line so small. I swear it was bigger on my screen......lol


2 months later
#1537 3 years ago
Quoted from Vexx_182:

Does anyone know if the switches on the double door mech are supposed to be compressed by the mech untill the ball hits the doors and letting the switch release? From what i can see without taking off the upper field thats what it looks like. my door mech is compressing the switch but just barley so when i flip the flippers or any vibration happens near that area im getting phantom rescue on the screen and door hits are registering. If thats the case does anyone know how to get the door to pull snug up against that switch? Do i adjust the spring or is there a way to actually adjust the switch. Machine doesnt have very many plays on it and just all the sudden started giving me the phantom door hits so i dont no what rout to go.

Most all of the switches have some adjustment in them. For some it is just a matter of bending the actuator arm just a bit. I would first check to make sure the switch is not loose, and then check the arm to see if you can bend it outward a bit. (not sure what that switch looks like off the top of my head)

#1538 3 years ago

I have to say my RR WOZ is the game I just love to hate. Had it for a few months now and although I am slowly getting better, it consistently kicks my ass every time I step up to the flippers. I am seriously thinking about putting zip ties across the outlane posts so I can at least look like I can score more then 10 points.....those drains are brutal lol. OK, I am not really going to do it, but I am sooo tempted just so I can get some practice time. It's hard to develop any technique when the ball is constantly down the side drain. (I know, I know, that is mostly because I put it there, but I am no pro by any means). Anyone else come up with a set of training wheels or ideas for their WOZ that helped with the ball times?

#1541 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

I get more SDTM from pop bumpers then outlane drains. You moved both outlanes posts down to close them up as much as possible id assume?

Yep, 1st thing I did

#1542 3 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Do you know how to drop catch? I find this technique HUGE when playing WOZ.

Depends on what you call a drop catch? Explain the process. I'll admit I don't have a whole lot of technique....I try and watch some of the u-tube videos for pointers, but there is a hang to this game I just haven't mastered yet.

#1548 3 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

» YouTube video
and This:
» YouTube video
You could say this about any pinball game...but I've found these two techniques to be really helpful in keeping a WOZ game alive.

Thanks, good stuff there....I need to search more videos. The drop catch I have down, and the dead bounce is iffy....I do have a lot of issues with the live catch, as I always outsmart myself and end up losing the ball off the tip of the flipper, or back up through the lane and into the drain. If I am concentrating I do OK, but when I get cocky, Dorothy quickly reminds me I have no real talent.......lol

#1578 3 years ago

I hate it when my Monkey Balls drop.......lol

2 months later
#1954 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

See above...^^^^^^^^^

Zip tie! lol Actually, I was wondering the same thing...I had no idea people were notching the metal. I assumed there was a secret adjustment I had not discovered.

3 months later
#2974 3 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

My WoZ was delivered today and it's mostly in perfect condition. One glaring issue though is with the monkey. When he goes down to pickup a ball the mech slides along two grooves in the wood and makes a loud and horrible screeching noise. If I put a little weight on the monkey bracket the noise doesn't happen. I'm guessing I'll either have to adjust the monkey somehow or maybe the wood needs to be sanded a little bit to make more space. Any thoughts?

Before you start to sand anything, take a close look at the motor and the slip clutch. My monkey was making a horrible noise and I couldn't figure it out for the life of me. After watching the thing travel over and over, I finally found the issue. There are 2 wire ties that go around a plastic tube that binds the motor shaft to the worm gear. They use this setup as a slip clutch so the motor doesn't break if the work gear binds up. At any rate, the wire ties were just slightly making contact with the 3 screws that fasten the motor to the bracket. Wasn't really hurting anything, but made a hell of a noise. I pried the wire tie up just a hair, and noise gone. Also, the pitch of the noise would change depending on the direction of the monkey, because the shaft would torque up or down with the direction of the Monkey. Here is a pic of what I am talking about........check this before you start carving on anything.

WOZ (resized).jpg

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