(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9,194 posts
  • 509 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by Rager170
  • Topic is favorited by 235 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (5 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (2 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (6 months ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (6 months ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (6 months ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (6 months ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (4 months ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#8773 43 days ago

Interested in purchasing a WOZ in the future.

Does anyone know of a breakout of the years and names/models of the WOZ’s that have been produced?

My searching online has only led to confusing answers and I cannot seem to find the information anywhere.

Thanks to those that respond.

#8775 43 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

Not sure of everything but will start it out with .....
Emerald Edition
Standard
Green Edition
Aussie Edition
75th Anniversary
Yellow Brick

Would the Aussie edition only be available in Australia?

#8777 42 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

Right, if memory serves me correct there were only like 79 of them made as a result of a dist. gone awry (I believe it was called Bumpers). You can search Pinside for the full info. In short the Emerald version was to be only 1000 but the AULE being made added 79 more Emerald, they are the same game, to the total.

Got it and thank you for the information.

Now if some one new the years they were made. That would be helpful!

1 week later
#8883 30 days ago

Ok, those last few posts made me laugh. All this monkey business made me question if I was on pinside or a medical issues forum. I feel sorry for the first guy that posts his monkey is not working!

#8887 30 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

When I get a tech call and they open with "my monkey isn't working", it is hard to not crack up.
LTG : )

I would quickly have to hit my mute button!

#8901 28 days ago

Are RR’s available NIB? I am still new to WOZ and whether they are available or not.

2 weeks later
#8999 14 days ago

Just received an RR #708. Yea!

Now I cannot figure out how to get any of the Device Tests to run. I can navigate to the device tests menu. I can change between tests, but none of the tests will run. I have tried them with the door closed and with the safety interlock pulled out. Nothing seems to make the test run. Manual does not work. Auto does not work.

What am I doing wrong? The manual does not mention how to activate the tests.

Thanks

#9001 14 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Press the "start" button to run the tests.

I tried that. It does not seem to do anything. The flippers do work though.

#9002 14 days ago

One other issue I cannot figure out is that the topper does not light up. Does it have a light sensor or should it just be on all of the time?

#9005 14 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

It should be on after the booting screens. it stays on.

Thanks...but the topper is never on and the start button does not activate the device tests.

I found another odd issue. I am unable to move the left outlane post due to the limited space between the screw that holds the post and the metal guide next to the hole. I can fit the screw in by itself, but that’s it.

#9006 14 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Thanks...but the topper is never on with this machine and the start button does not activate the device tests.
I found another odd issue. I am unable to move the left outlane post due to the limited space between the screw that holds the post and the metal guide next to the hole. I can fit the screw in by itself, but that’s it.

#9007 14 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Hmmnn I feel like I had this problem and realized i was pressing the "enter" button and not the "start" button.

The enter button just keeps switching between Manual and Auto.

#9012 14 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

You have to remove the top screw holding the ball guide down and move it too if my (shoddy) memory serves me correctly.
Can you start and play a game?
Check connections in the backbox going up to the LED strip for the Topper, also check Topper Brightness setting in the menu.

Yes the game boots and plays.

There are two BLUE connectors that go to the topper. The light strip is connected to one of the BLUE wire connectors. The other connector is not connected to anything. I disconnected the connector and reconnected it and the light is still off. I am hesitant at connecting the light to the other connector not knowing what it is for.

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#9015 14 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Do any of the devices you are trying to test (assume the house and Monkey?) work in game? Are the spotlights on?
As @rager170 suggested follow those wires for the topper strip down to the Metal box? Is the metal box with the PC in it still in the bottom of the cabinet on these new RRs or did it get moved to the backbox?

PC is now the the back box.

Two connects were not flush so I turned the machine off and reseated them. The device tests seem to work now. Yes, there is a lot of tension pulling the connectors to the side.

So the device test is fixed.

Topper I cannot figure out and there is no way the LH outlane post is going to fit into its RH hole.

#9018 14 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

The outlane post definitely should. This has tricked a lot of people thinking it would slide over but once they removed it, they found that it did fit in the right hole..

No room but for the screw.

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#9021 14 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Measure DC Volts at that connector you posted before.
Unless they changed the PF (they didn't) you can move that lane guide post but you have to remove the plastic piece covering it. See the area I circled below, the two larger top holes are for the post and the lower two are for the lane guide, you do have to bend it a little to move it over there.[quoted image]

Do you know what the voltage should read?

So, if I understand you correctly, there are two sets of holes for both the post and the metal guide. To move the post to the right hole, I must move the guide to the left holes? Correct?

Thanks for the picture. I think it makes sense now. I could not see any additional hole for the guide since they are covered up by the bracket.

#9025 14 days ago

Thanks for the assistance. I believe I understand your instructions concerning the post and guide. I will look at that later tonight.

Emailing with Stephen at JJP about the topper lights. 13.8 volts and the fuses appear to be working. I think it is the led strip not working since there is voltage.

#9026 14 days ago

Thanks to all for your assistance with my issues guys! Thumbs Up

Device test was a loose connector.

@bobukcat provided the picture which should solve the post issue.

And...I think the topper led strip is not working. The connector is getting 13.8 volts. The backbox led strip is receiving 12 volts. Fuses look good. Stephen @ JJP was emailing me about the topper. I will wait for word from him about it. The start button flashes and according to Stephen it is the same circuit as the topper. Again, makes me suspect the led strip.

Game is beautiful and I think it might be a keeper.

#9029 14 days ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

If relevant to LukyDuck's efforts:
I'm owner #2. Owner #1 had the game for years.
When I first turned it on after moving it to my home, the backbox did not light up.
Simple problem of one of the pins in the cable connector having backed out juuuuuust a little. Simple reseat (push) of the pin into the housing & it was fine.
Sounds similar to your topper problem, & the Start button problem that you fixed. Perhaps that's what's behind your dark topper.
Good luck!
Thanks,
-Jason

Thanks for the information. Stephen from JJP and I have determined it is the led strip that is bad. He is going to get a new one sent out.

#9031 14 days ago
Quoted from irishpin:

Just received out 75th anniversary #1337 from the new run today. I have not yet un-boxed the pin. hoping I do not have any issues as other have had. Was told the monitor and computer on the latest "batch" of ruby red is mounted the same as the yellow brick road. I did find it interesting that the set up sheet that was sent shows the Wonka Machine on it!!! Anything I should look for when opening it up?

Funny, I just received my RR and I saw the WW instructions also.

Here is something I would do.

Turn off your machine and grab the backbox keys and unlock it. Slide up the panel and place it somewhere safe. Grab the monitor on both sides and pull forward. There are two strong magnets holding it in place. The monitor can be swung to the side of the machine. It’s on a monitor mount attached to the backbox. Double check all of the connectors to ensure they are flush with the board. I had a few that were not completely seated and gave me an issue. I also would look at all of the fuses and make sure they are good. The cables are really tight and some are pulling the bundles to one side or the other.

Check you plumb bob and adjust it. Mine was slightly off after I leveled the machine both front to back and side to side.

Wax the play field.

ENJOY IT!

#9035 14 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Just curious, but are these new RR's coming with the monkey mech? I heard that they were, but I'm not sure I ever saw a definitive answer.

Yes, they come with the Monkey! They are part of the original 1,500.

The only thing I believe I didn’t receive was the Color Owners Manual. They should drop the item from the list if they are not going to include it and the price by $100. I would have liked to have it, personally.

#9036 14 days ago
Quoted from irishpin:

Just received out 75th anniversary #1337 from the new run today. I have not yet un-boxed the pin. hoping I do not have any issues as other have had. Was told the monitor and computer on the latest "batch" of ruby red is mounted the same as the yellow brick road. I did find it interesting that the set up sheet that was sent shows the Wonka Machine on it!!! Anything I should look for when opening it up?

Here is something else I would do.

Navigate to the Devices Test (i.e. Moneky test, house test, witch test, etc.) section of the game. Run them and make sure they work as expected. I had to adjust the spinning house in order to get the feet/legs to show properly. It took a bunch of time playing with the settings for it to work right. I am glad I adjusted it now so that I know it should work properly IF I ever get to that part in the game.

#9039 14 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Contact them and see if they’ll send it to you.

I have thought about it and might do that tomorrow. At least just ask if it is supposed to come with it since it is advertised on their website as included.

#9055 12 days ago

Monkey Help - I have a new RR and the Monkey never picks up the ball. The ball was captured on the play field, the monkey went down to pick up the ball, it looked like the monkey grabbed the ball and then the ball fell off just as the monkey started rising.

I could not find any references as to how to solve this issue. Thanks

#9058 12 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

manually try it a few times in the game with the glass off.
It could just be a fluke.
There are adjustments on the monkey, but see if it always happens or just sometimes.
A video on this is helpful.

What would the steps be to test it properly? Thanks

#9060 12 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Check the magnet sense board?

Thanks for the video. I believe the magnet sense board is working just the in the video.

#9061 12 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

start a game
activate the winged monkey targets behind the haunted forest to get the capture light flashing
roll a ball along the outer lane and look to see what happens.

Is it normal for it only let me perform the capture Dorothy once on the first ball?

I tried two games and I can only perform this function on the first ball and both times it picked up the ball but dropped it on the play field when it reached the castle. The monkey did not place the ball behind the door.

#9063 12 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Is it normal for it only let me perform the capture Dorothy once on the first ball?
I tried two games and I can only perform this function on the first ball and both times it picked up the ball but dropped it on the play field when it reached the castle. The monkey did not place the ball behind the door.

I tried it a third time and the monkey took the ball to the castle, dropped the ball, and the ball bounced out to the right and back onto the lower play field.

#9065 12 days ago
Quoted from adol75:

Does your monkey go completely behind the castle door before it releases the ball. It looks like the switch clicks too early for the ball to fall at the right place. Also did you look behind the door to make sure it's clear ?

Yes it is clear. The monkey rises to the top behind the door, stops and then drops the ball, which bounces out to the right onto the lower play field.

#9066 12 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Adjust the upper limit switch so your monkey travels a little bit farther.
LTG : )

Thanks, I will give that a try.

#9071 12 days ago

Question, there is a small piece of rubber that was laying flat on the upper play field behind the door. i think the ball was being dropped on the rubber and bouncing out. See picture.

Where is the rubber supposed to be placed?

It looks to me like it is supposed to be vertical and attached to the RH metal guard to protect the ball when dropped from the metal guard edge.

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#9073 12 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Flat on the playfield. Tight against the stainless steel wall with the hole through it for the ball to travel through. It should divert the ball a little to the lane switch up there.
LTG : )

Thanks, but with the switch all the way left and the rubber on the right, it appears that the ball just bounces between the two and then out the right side. I will see if I can adjust the switch to the center/right and find a good placement for the rubber.

#9075 12 days ago

Another new issue. The Winkie target is stuck down.

Is there a way to test it? I could not find a setting to test.

Edit: found the coil setting, but the target is not resetting to the up position when a new game is started.

#9077 12 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Wow, you really are having a lot of issues with that game, that's a bummer. There is a coil in the coil test for the Winkie drop up (and a separate one for down). Could be that the target just won't stay up and you need to adjust the mechanism mechanically to fix it but the coil test will show expose that if that is the case.

Tell me about it.

Every time I try to fix something. Something else crops up.

Now I just found the drop target switch completely lose and tightened it, turned the machine on and got this...

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#9081 12 days ago

For the moment I believe the monkey bounce out right is fixed. I moved the rubber strip away from the metal guard to the left about 1/16-1/8 inch away from the right side of the mini play field. This appears to stop the bounce out and the ball looks like it is sitting on the switch now after being dropped.

Winkie drop target switch screws were completely lose. Aligned it best I could not knowing exactly how it should be set. It looks like the target is working now.

Ran switch tests and all switches appear to be working like they should. Must have been a flagging as LTG stated. I never had issues with them before.

I am learning a lot more about WOZ than I expected being NIB! Man that play field is heavier than I expected.

#9083 12 days ago

Crystal ball question. Where do other owners have to place their eyes/head in order to see the middle of the screen in the crystal ball?

On my machine, I have to lower my head & eyes by 6 inches & shift my body to the right about 6 inches. In my opinion, it’s like the crystal ball was not aligned with the players line of site. I am 5’10” so I could understand it being lower for shorter players. But being off to the right is not correct.

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#9084 12 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Wow, you really are having a lot of issues with that game, that's a bummer. There is a coil in the coil test for the Winkie drop up (and a separate one for down). Could be that the target just won't stay up and you need to adjust the mechanism mechanically to fix it but the coil test will show expose that if that is the case.

Thanks for the info. Found the coil and tests ok. The switch screws were completely lose. Aligned and tightened and appears to be working now.

#9092 11 days ago
Quoted from Homebru:

I had the exact same problem. I wound up putting the CB base on top of the wireform and that helped. The molex connector is now also below the wireform, which I think offers better protection. It helped with the vertical alignment, but mine still requires a bit of a right lean like yours. Almost seems like the base bracket should have an eccentric or oval hole to allow alignment adjustment.

Thanks, I was wondering if is just my machine or common.

I attempted the exact same thing. I tried putting it on top of the wire form, but the connector on the back was hitting the wire form. So it didn’t work for me.

I may look at the base again and see if I can make a mounting base for it that is adjustable...

#9102 10 days ago

My RR came with some spare black screws. Does anyone know what they are for?

I am unable to figure out what they might be used for.

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#9105 10 days ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Are they for the topper?

Ah, that might be what they are for. Maybe extra screws for the topper. I could not think of anything that used black screws. I will check later on that. Thanks

#9109 9 days ago

5 days old and my RR is already down. OZ Lang sling shot rubber snapped. No spare came with the game.

Where do you you recommend ordering spares from? Can you purchase a kit with all of the usual rubbers?

New to pinball so looking for options and recommendations.

Thanks

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#9172 5 days ago

RH castle door has stopped opening. What should I investigate?

#9174 5 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Go into Tests - Devices - try the door test. If it's making noise but not turning, the set screws holding the motor to the dorr shaft came loose.
Check the parts layout in the manual. Find the two set screws. Remove the door from the shaft. Remove the castle playfield. Remove the screws holding the motor and lower it to get at the ste screws. Tighten them. Reassemble.
LTG : )

Thanks, would you recommend lock-tight on them or just tighten them back up?

#9182 5 days ago

Is there a way to turn off the castle doors since one of mine is not working?

I searched thru the menu options and did not find a setting to turn them off. I have opened a service ticket with JJP and my distributor.

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