(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



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  • 7,894 posts
  • 471 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by Pinballomatic
  • Topic is favorited by 217 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (5 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (2 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (76 days ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (76 days ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (64 days ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (64 days ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (18 days ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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325 posts in this topic match your search for posts by ltg. You are on page 1 of 2.
#314 5 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

they seem shorter then your normal buzz fuze.

20mm size. Check Bay Area Amusements, Pinball Life, Marco. Radio Shack. Etc.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#351 5 years ago
Quoted from Rockytop:

WOZ newbie question. Is the upper right flipper supposed to kind of rapid fire if you hold the right flipper button down?

No. Please push the connectors to the coil lug on tighter.

LTG : )™

#367 4 years ago
Quoted from bigduke6:

I know this has been asked before but what should be done right away?

I would open it up, check over the insides for any connectors or anything that could have come loose. Look over the playfield underside, front inside of coin door area, back of metal box where the boards are. Things like that.

Set it in place, set the playfield pitch and level. Clean the balls and install.

Power up, marvel at it a second. Then open the coin door and hit the black enter button once, glance at the lower right area of the screen for what ever revision is in the game. 3.0 is the latest.

Then start playing. As you enjoy the game, you can tweak just about everything in it, coil settings, pricing, difficulties, etc. etc.

Time of your life, have a great day. If you have a question during this, give me a call at the tech support phone number. I'm there noon to midnight everyday.

PM me for info on updating the game, calibrating Dorthy's house, etc.

LTG : )™

1 month later
#494 4 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

you can use I believe bd 18 which is located under the bottom right or left sling. Take out the smaller bad bd and replace with the good bd #18. This way, most of your lights will work properly

Well the there is no place like home, yellow brick road, TOTO lights and everything up the right side like lion board and throne room board to and including the rainbow lights won't work.

LTG : )™

2 months later
#526 4 years ago
Quoted from Sijcolo:

Anyone know how to reset high scores?

Open coin door, hit the Enter button. Left column last one that says Resets - in there.

LTG : )

1 month later
#531 4 years ago
Quoted from skywalker:

Whats the recommended pitch level setting for Woz

I have the one here at 6.5 degrees.

LTG : )™

#534 4 years ago
Quoted from DaveH:

Taylor, can you toss up a picture when you install it?

LTG : )™

IMG_0572.JPG IMG_0576.JPG
1 year later
#1831 2 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

The magnet seems to be sitting slightly above the playfield. Is there a way to adjust the height of the magnet?

Should be able to lower it from below. Loosen nut and turn huge screw/pole lower.

LTG : )

6 months later
#3354 2 years ago
Quoted from Spg101:

Any of these help?

Yes.

Quoted from Spg101:

I didn't look to see exactly where the light boards are.

All the big green things in your pictures.

Your second picture down. WOZ1 or the fish board. Near the top of the board, see V2.0 ? You have the latest version 2 boards. In use since mid December 2016.

LTG : )

#3365 2 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

will there be some sort of upgrade kit made available to those with Woz 1.x machines at some point?

No idea at this time.

LTG : )

#3398 2 years ago
Quoted from tp:

Thanks for any suggestions.

Could need a little tweaking. The little nose below the coil, bend it up a tiny bit so the metal plate holding the arm is closer to the coil and gets grabbed better.

LTG : )

325574-i (resized).jpg

#3422 2 years ago

It's call JJP tomorrow extension 1 and Victor or Frank will help you.

LTG : )

#3467 2 years ago
Quoted from Radius118:

, but nothing will happen until someone inside JJP says "Hey, maybe we should put together a kit for WoZ 1.0 owners and make it reasonably priced." Who that will be is anyone's guess but the seed needs to be planted somewhere.

Talk to Jack at shows.

LTG : )

#3492 2 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

I reeeeally want to be careful not to come across as some ungrateful d'bag.

You aren't. You didn't get what you paid for.

Quoted from moonduckie78:

And I haven't heard back from Automated

Call them. Insist on talking to Mike Daddona.

LTG : )

#3500 2 years ago
Quoted from Spg101:

does not run where the manual says it does.

Have you downloaded the latest WOZ manual ? Rear section has the new lighting in it.

http://support.jerseyjackpinball.com/downloads/woz/Wizard_of_Oz_Manual_3_5_Dec_2016.pdf

LTG : )

#3531 2 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Think I just need to replace the coil sleeve, go for a full re-build, or something else??

Easy to remove the coil stop and check coil stop and plunger and coil sleeve for wear.

I'd check the wiring to the coil lugs too.

LTG : )

#3548 2 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Does anyone have a B/W cross on a part number of the coil sleeve

Before ordering parts, check the plunger end for wear. If sharp or mushroomed you need plunger assembly, coil stop, and coil sleeve.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#3620 2 years ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

The two "lugs" on the side seem to rotate freely.

Do you mean loose on the motor shaft ?

LTG : )

1 week later
#3659 2 years ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

but how do you submit a formal ticket for support.

Please go to the website and open a new one. Last weekend things like the parts store and support desk were moved and the old might not be accessed.

LTG : )

#3664 2 years ago

Yes. Please start a new ticket.

LTG : )

#3669 2 years ago
Quoted from Spg101:

Any idea where I can get one?

You have one right there. Small, thin flat nosed pliers. Bend a loop over the broken end. Hook it back up. Back in business.

LTG : )

#3671 2 years ago

Broke spring. Flat nose pliers in last loop, bend over 90 degrees. Fixed good as new.

LTG : )

broke (resized).JPG

fix (resized).JPG

goodasnew (resized).JPG

#3682 2 years ago
Quoted from netcivil:

any idea which spring would best replace the one on the munchkin land ball lock?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-96 I'd try this one.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#3767 2 years ago

Your emails may not be getting through or to the right people.

Please go to Support on jerseyjackpinball.com and open a new ticket. Describe what has gone on, previous ticket numbers, and what the game is doing now.

Thank you.
LTG : )

1 week later
#3790 2 years ago
Quoted from TomT:

has anyone had to replace theirs?

Try bypassing the back of the metal box and plug directly into the motherboard or soundboard.

LTG : )

#3800 2 years ago
Quoted from rubberducks:

Thanks in advance for any help.

From your description, it sounds like your 12 volts is missing. I'd check fuses on I/O board and power supply board ( if your game has one ), and then onto connectors involved going out from power supply board and I/O board.

LTG : )

#3804 2 years ago
Quoted from rubberducks:

Surely those are on 12V?

Then go over all your 12 volt connectors.

LTG : )

#3829 2 years ago
Quoted from TomT:

has anyone had to replace one?

Rare, but there have been a few.

LTG : )

#3847 2 years ago
Quoted from TRAMD:

Where/who are the best places to get these?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-throne-room-mod-cover-for-acrylic-plate Indy makes some of these, great to deal with.

LTG : )

#3851 2 years ago

Looks like a LED board failed early in the chain. W6 to #29 to # 1 to #2 etc. Find the first one out after the last working one, the first one out failed.

Page C-54 in the manual shows how data harnesses run. If the data harness reaches, you can by pass the failed LED board to get the rest going, then go into Settings - scroll down and turn the by passed board off. Be sure and turn it back on when you put a new LED board in.

If the game is under warranty, you can open a ticket on the support desk to get a new one. If not, the store on their website sells them.

LTG : )

#3853 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Connect/disconnect with power off always.

You can move data harnesses around with power on, power connectors always power off.

LTG : )

1 week later
#3891 2 years ago
Quoted from Guzz4851:

I sifted quick about light boards, can't find so forgive me....

Call JJP extension 1, have your serial number ready 0870 - - - - , they can look up what is in your game.

LTG : )

#3895 2 years ago
Quoted from lschmidlin:

Not sure how to test it.

Put a meter on it, see if you have 12 volts DC at the connector.

If you have voltage, call JJP to order a new one. 24-0001-05 LED Strip, Green

LTG : )

#3901 2 years ago
Quoted from Gorgar123:

Seems like the correct part and they have it listed as 19-3016-00?

Correct part and cheap. That is about the price of the LED strip with out connector and the acrylic head.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#3932 2 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Anyone think it's worth it to replace perfectly working, but unbufered 7.5v light boards with the new 2.0 boards? Cost is probably $800-$1k but wondering in the long run if it would be worth it?

Cost will more likely be north of $2K. Not sure they will make kits.

Strip out all LED boards, remove all data harnesses and power cables that are cable tied to everything. Drill GI tube holes bigger. Put LED boards back in, all new data and power cables, BAG and HUB boards. New power supply. etc. etc.

If, and that is a huge "IF", a person is mechanically and electrically proficient , you are looking at 10 plus hours of work.

And I won't be doing tech support on this.

LTG : )

#3935 2 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

can you now replace an un-buffered 7.5v with one of the buffered ones?

Yes.

LTG : )

#3939 2 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

It would be great if JJP provided kits and instructions for owners who have crappy ecle playfields they are swapping, especially if they are going to incur the cost to upgrade themselves.

I agree. I'd like to see them available. Parts are available. Instructions won't be easy.

If someone is capable of the playfield swap, then they could do it.

And if JJP makes kits. And the phone rings. I'll try and help. I'm just worried that an undertaking of this magnitude, there won't be much on the phone or email, that I'll be able to help with.

LTG : )

#3941 2 years ago

Might be because a couple are turned off. I'd replace the bad ones and then see where you are at.

LTG : )

1 week later
#3965 1 year ago
Quoted from merccat:

Didn't see on their site, is this one a beta through the owners forum?

Not on owners forum. Will be on site soon.

LTG : )

1 month later
#4182 1 year ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

Should I just remove it?

Yes, instructions in the rear of the manual. More time consuming than hard. When you stick it back in, be sure none of the cables drop down and block the playfield lanes back there and stop balls from rolling through.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#4237 1 year ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

It just makes a notable whirring sound when it's supposed to open.

Allen head set screws holding door to motor shaft are loose. Item 7d on page C-37 in the manual.

Remove castle playfield. Remove door. Drop motor assembly down, tighten, reassemble.

LTG : )

1 week later
#4324 1 year ago
Quoted from lschmidlin:

but not sure where to get them.

http://www.britemods.com/britebuttons-.html

Other places too.

LTG : )

#4333 1 year ago
Quoted from WyseGuy:

Can it play in the meantime?

Super Glue the ends together. Rubber bands. Stock spares.

LTG : )

#4360 1 year ago
Quoted from davin72:

Every so often during a game it will come up saying the coin door is open.

Metal flap pushing in the two white switches probably needs bending to do a better job. Assuming the coin door harness isn't in the way of the flap and switches.

LTG : )

#4362 1 year ago
Quoted from davin72:

I thought about that but even with the door open I can push in both switches and nothing happens. I let it set for a minute and all of a sudden it fixes itself. It's real random and that's why I just figured the switch was going bad.

Please open a ticket on the support desk at jerseyjackpinball.com they'll get you what you need.

LTG : )

#4376 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

I want to write down my audits etc..
Does it save audits past an update?

Before I do any update. I go to Utilities and plug in a USB stick and do setting back up, then after update go back in and restore. That seems to save everything. Settings you made, scores, etc.

LTG : )

#4378 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

That's nifty, can you do that with Stern SAM system?

I don't think so.

LTG : )

#4389 1 year ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

The piece that connects the Monkey screw drive to the motor shaft spins freely and looking for a permanent solution. I can push the coupling towards the screw side and it will grab it for a while, but will eventually spin freely, gets old.

Clear rubber tubing between the motor and threaded rod. Hardware store or pet store should have it.

If you have the original plastic coupling, check the diagram in the current manual for the change above.

LTG : )

#4394 1 year ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Is it part 12?

Yes. A few years back changed to rubber tubing.

LTG : )

#4402 1 year ago
Quoted from mountaingamer:

and maybe check the switch behind the single castle door - it may be a opto

Micro mini switch.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#4440 1 year ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

Anyone have thoughts on chasing this down?

I'd check the wiring for the sensors that the ball triggers. Maybe something came loose.

LTG : )

1 week later
#4457 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

what's the diverter, do you have a picture?

For WOZ, but same principle for all games using a Williams ball trough, like Williams, JJP, and Remakes.

http://www.pinplay.com/5/adjusting_the_ball_trough_on_woz.html

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#4487 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

What metal part are you talking about? This doesn't sound normal to me.

The nose circled in red. Bend up a little so the metal plate the arm is riveted to is closer to the coil.

LTG : )

woz ball lock nose (resized).JPG

#4496 1 year ago

Don't worry about the connector.

Drop target - go into Tests - switches - matrixed, see if the drop target switch works. May need adjusting.

LTG : )

#4504 1 year ago

No turning back now. LTG : )

WOZLEDs (resized).JPG

#4507 1 year ago
Quoted from clg:

Are you converting to the new lighting?

Yes. The kits will be available soon. I need to be prepared if anyone needs help. Butch Peel has done a good job with instructions. So I don't think there will be many calls.

LTG : )

WOZ2point0 (resized).JPG

#4513 1 year ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Does it still require drilling the playfield?

Make the GI tubes bigger - no.

Pilot holes for the GI boards and frames for the bag and hub boards, yes.

LTG : )

#4516 1 year ago

Work on WOZ continues.

LTG : )

WOZContinues (resized).JPG

#4520 1 year ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

When your done, will you come and do mine? Practice makes perfect.

Love to. You moving to Minnesota ?

Quoted from DeathHimself:

When you finish Lloyd give us an idea on how long it took you, so I can x4 and know how long it will take me.

I'm not pushing straight through. So my time would be off. I'm told about 8 to 10 hours.

LTG : )

#4529 1 year ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

So that connector is for the castle flipper EOS switch, which I am getting an alert on to check......Shouldn't it be connected somewhere?

If it is for the castle flipper EOS, yes, it goes somewhere. From back of the metal box up to the underside of the castle playfield.

Quoted from WackyBrakke:

Also The right castle door isn't opening, looks like that is directly connected to a motor, so is the motor faulty?

Listen to it, if it sounds like the motor is turning. Then the set screws holding the door shaft to the motor are loose. Remove door, remove castle playfield, drop motor assembly down to get access to them.

LTG : )

#4534 1 year ago

2) - You can go into Settings and scroll down to ball lock one, two, three. And adjust timing there. More or less as needed.

1) - Ball jam opto flaky ? Shooter lane switch stuck down ?

LTG : )

1 week later
#4552 1 year ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

And if I fix the connection, the lights will work again?

Yes. ( assuming you didn't hurt anything else )

LTG : )

#4560 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

Is it hard to replace the upper rubber

PM me your email address and I'll email you the ten minute how to article.

LTG : )

#4563 1 year ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

What size rubber ring ?

2 inch

Turn the power down too, on that slingshot, if it hasn't been done yet.

LTG : )

#4571 1 year ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

but something is causing the door to stop!

The door shaft might be coming loose from the motor shaft below the castle playfield.

LTG : )

#4573 1 year ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

If this were the case, wouldn't the same thing happen at the beginning of rescue multiball?

You would think so.

But I've never had one while it was coming loose. I usually hear about them when they are totally loose.

LTG : )

#4588 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballBJB:

I've opened a ticket with Support.

They may have another idea or two to check. I'd measure power to the motor, see if it reverses or not. Then you know the potential of bad motor or bad board it plugs onto.

I'd reseat the motor wires to the board it plugs onto. And be sure the threaded rod has clean, fresh lube on it.

LTG : )

#4598 1 year ago
Quoted from shiffdog:

Can anyone recommend any tricks?

Loosen screws turn a little.

Be sure playfield hangers aren't bent and plunger lines up with shooter lane good.

LTG : )

#4603 1 year ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

I just noticed there is a usb stick plugged into the computer case with my games serial number on it - is this for Pindemption?

Probably not. You need that or the game won't check serial number and stuff and boot up.

If you buy Pindemption, you get a new one of those the swap with the dongle you have now.

You can see if Pindemption is an option in your software and turn it on, if it is. I would back up settings first. Because if you disable Pindemption and go back to normal WOZ, a lot of crap is messed up.

LTG : )

#4605 1 year ago

If it disabled the monkey. It did a lot more. Like you can only coin up for one credit at a time. And other stuff I forget but you'll discover.

No idea on attract mode.

LTG : )

#4607 1 year ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

Out of curiosity does this mean that I do have Pindemption and it's possibly corrupt or something or is the menu option available on everyone's machine

Something is corrupted.

I don't believe the menu option is there unless your game has the Pindemption dongle.

LTG : )

#4623 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

I believe we're up to 6.50 now, right?

6.06

LTG : )

#4625 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Hes got all the facts.

Like check JJP's website to see what the current software version is ? ( I did, just to be current )

LTG : )

#4628 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

6.50 delta is latest. 6.06 is last full install.

Steve is right. ( I goofed when I checked and the 6.50 delta starts with 6.06 to 6.50, sorry )

LTG : )

#4727 1 year ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

What should I do?

Put a piece of black electrician tape on the monkey's magnet.

LTG : )

#4731 1 year ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Seriously?!? That's all I've needed to do all this time?

Interesting.

Yes.

LTG : )

#4755 1 year ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

UGH. I just finally updated to 6.50 yesterday...........

6.60 is a delta, simple and fast to do.

LTG : )

#4761 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Every time I try to do a Delta update, it corrupts the game's file system and I need to reload the full ISO and then try the Delta update again. Happens every time on my WOZ and Dialed In. Frustrating.

You doing something Wrong ? I ask because it happens on two different machines.

LTG : )

#4776 1 year ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Tried upgrading to 6.60, followed the instructions 100%, but when I checked it still said 6.50.

Should I format my USB stick and try again? Use a different USB? What am I doing wrong?

I'd try a different USB stick first.

LTG : )

#4783 1 year ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Maybe the stick is corrupt?

There are times the game simply doesn't like one stick.

LTG : )

#4785 1 year ago

Splash screen means the motherboard is working. Read error sounds like hard drive.

Please go to jerseyjackpinball.com and under support open a ticket.

LTG : )

#4805 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Think I need to lube my rod?

If it makes noise, doesn't move good. Yes. The flat bar the thing rides on too.

LTG : )

#4809 1 year ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

ust updated to 6.6 and the screen is no longer being filled. Bottom and left edge are black.

Please open a ticket on it. Maybe bad download, maybe something else ? First one I've heard of.

They can look up what is in your game as far as build and figure the what next.

LTG : )

#4812 1 year ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Just updated to 6.6 and the screen is no longer being filled. Bottom and left edge are black.

Ted posted on the JJP Forum what to do. ( you may have already seen it )

LTG : )

#4821 1 year ago
Quoted from PAPinballer:

PS: I have another issue with the left flipper that I'll be posting for help if I don't first see a solution to it in the forums (weak flipper that simply collapses when the ball hits the edge - kind of like the weak flipper mode but happening when I'm not even in that mode).

Clean the flipper button leaf blade and EOS leaf blade switches.

LTG : )

#4838 1 year ago
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

What is best flash drive to use for JJP games.

No idea if it's the best. I've always used PNY ones, 8GB. No problems yet.

LTG : )

#4845 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckcasey:

Any idea why it wouldn't stay down?

The springs on the shaft the feet/door are on ?

LTG : )

#4867 1 year ago

If your game has a universal power supply board, I'd start there.

Or take a meter and check any LED board to see if you have power at the purple and black wires.

If you have a switching power supply on the middle bottom of the back wall of the cabinet, put a meter on it and see what it's doing.

LTG : )

#4879 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Did you customize that or did it happen automatically?

It automatically happened after he put a custom message in.

LTG : )

#4903 1 year ago
Quoted from Gov:

I hate to put locktite on there. Any suggestions?

Locktite blue.

LTG : )

#4908 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Is the metal bracket suppose to begin this position in front of the switch?

No. Tab on drop target pushes switch closed, not the metal pusher thingy.

LTG : )

IMG_0436 (resized).JPG

IMG_0437 (resized).JPG

#4926 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Right now Im just tweaking the ball lock arm to get it right again after 4 years of continuous play.

Something that might help. That whole assembly is mounted to a piece you can bend forward or back. Get it working right, then bend forward or back to set the front of the arm to the right height for the balls.

LTG : )

1 week later
#4991 1 year ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Could you have reversed the wires on the coil?

Coil shouldn't have a diode, diode is on the I/O board ( I left you a message ) so diode on the I/O board could be bad.

LTG : )

#4995 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

This is how the coil came from JJP. This is the org coil with diode.

Yes, it happens. And sadly easy to mix up the wires to the coil then.

LTG : )

#4997 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Can u tell me which Resistor?

Diode.

I'm sorry I don't know. Not in the manual. You might call JJP and ask Frank or Ken.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#5024 1 year ago
Quoted from billycrna:

how did you rectify it?

Two brass screws on top of the lockdown bar receiver are used to adjust the sliding mechanism that holds the lockdown bar down so you can make it looser or tighter.

LTG : )

#5046 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

my first 6 small inserts that start the yellow brick road seem off.

Turn game off. Look at them. Yellow inserts for the first 6, all the rest of the inserts are clear.

LTG : )

1 week later
#5107 1 year ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

the entire Game shuts off except the back glass light and coin door bulbs.

Power cord into back of cabinet in tight ?

If your game has an ATX power supply, power cord into it tight ?

Parts in the metal box over on/off switch starting to burn/fail ?

Could you plug a light or something into the service outlet and see if it goes out the same time the game goes out ?

LTG : )

#5117 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

The game does not boot and the display will say, no signal.

If your game has a reset switch inside the big metal box with all the boards, push it once with the power on.

If no reset switch, then with the power on, very carefully briefly short pins 6 and 8 on the connector JFP1 on the motherboard. See picture.

LTG : )

photo 2 (resized).JPG

#5119 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Where is the reset button? Can u show pic?

If your game has one, it would be buried in the metal box with all the boards, and plugged onto the connector in the picture.

LTG : )

#5121 1 year ago
Quoted from chalkup8:

Could someone please direct me to where I can get some 12 volt led's for the spot lights on Woz.

Check out Comet - http://www.cometpinball.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=12+volt

LTG : )

#5123 1 year ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Try the Optix Maximus:

This one is 1 watt of light : http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1wt1012v.htm

LTG : )

#5128 1 year ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

I looked for it, but couldn't find it.

Settings - Coils - scroll the whole way down, ramp lock up timing.

LTG : )

#5149 1 year ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Thx for any ideas...

Reseat SATA cables, both ends between motherboard and hard drive.

Try running it blind, unhook monitor power, maybe it is the issue.

LTG : )

#5150 1 year ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Thx for any ideas...

Be sure the connector on the crystal ball hasn't come apart or lost pins or anything.

LTG : )

#5152 1 year ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

what are sata cables?

Flat looking things, follow them from hard drive to motherboard.

LTG : )

#5153 1 year ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

I turned monitor off as soon as it booted.

Try it before turning the game on.

LTG : )

#5159 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

How do I get it out?

Everything unplugged ? Sure you didn't miss a screw ? Should come out. If it has a gasket on the connector end, maybe pull a little.

LTG : )

#5175 1 year ago
Quoted from Bos98:

buy a replacement light board for it?

The older small boards are available on their website : 7.5 or 5 volts - http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/

If it's the 2.0 boards, best call. 732-364-9900 ext. 1 ask for Paul.

LTG : )

#5178 1 year ago
Quoted from rockrand:

Loyd did you ever finish the 2.0 conversion

Yes.

Quoted from rockrand:

I thought you were sent a kit?

Kind of. More parts than an actual kit. Preliminary to JJP's making a kit available.

LTG : )

#5182 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

So would the conversion kit pretty much rule out future light board issues?

Yes. If your WOZ loses boards. Not all do.

LTG : )

#5185 1 year ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

I just talked to support on Friday ordering yet another batch of boards and they said the 2.0kit wasn’t out yet. Is it really out?

If support said it wasn't, it isn't out yet.

LTG : )

#5187 1 year ago

Probably. The newer buffered boards perform well. Some games may have a board go out, and some games don't.

If you rarely lose a board, I wouldn't worry.

If you lose a bunch or some of the big boards. Then I'd consider the 2.0 kit when it comes out.

LTG : )

#5189 1 year ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

Lowering the playfield gently or putting the glass-on even caused it to crash.

Something's loose. You check the power cord into the back of the cabinet ?

Quoted from Reznnate:

Q2. Is it possible to decipher the error log?
N: 2018-02-27 01:47:21 A: 00000000004c9014, S: 0, E: 12006, T: 3, P: 204

Jibberish, won't help.

LTG : )

#5193 1 year ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

I can't seem to isolate the general location.

Quoted from Reznnate:

Lowering the playfield gently or putting the glass-on even caused it to crash.

Like the black flex tubes the wires go through are dragging across wiring or something at the rear of the huge metal box.

LTG : )

#5233 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

I just installed a new mother board. I have a keyboard plugged in but don't have directions as to what to do next.

If the new motherboard has one memory stick and two slots. Grab a memory stick from the old motherboard and stick it in the new one.

Then if the screen comes up with the press F1 or press F2 stuff, hit F2. Unplug the keyboard, turn off game. Turn game back on and see if it's okay.

LTG : )

1 week later
#5259 1 year ago
Quoted from merccat:

For anyone going to Arcade Expo in Banning this year they have setup a JJP room with a WOZ, Hobbbit, Dialed In and two POTC prototypes (there for the show).

http://www.arcadeexpo.com/ I believe Jack and Butch will be there. They are at TPF on Friday, so maybe there Saturday or Sunday ?

LTG : )

1 week later
#5299 1 year ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

Everything seems fine now.

If the problem returns. I'd clean off the old grease and put on new.

LTG : )

#5303 1 year ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

What grease do you recommend?

Any light grease. I use one for the chain drive on garage door openers.

LTG : )

#5330 1 year ago
Quoted from audihere:

Does anyone else distribute them?

If your game is out of warranty, you can but new LED boards on their website, jerseyjackpinball.com in the store.

LTG : )

#5331 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Call them directly ! they really want to hear from you.

Call during EST business hours. 732-364-9900 ext 1

Don't call Lloyd. I don't have access to ticket desk or be able to send parts.

LTG : )

#5335 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

He is fun to talk to and always around!

And I can tell you my newest joke. And plans for my "seminar" mug for Mike's show in Chicago this October.

LTG : )

#5336 1 year ago
Quoted from whitey:

Sorry for sideways photo

Fixed it for you.

LTG : )

dfdbd5ba01c46c6c23ae6bbd5e96cc92d4ad4e51 (resized).jpg

#5343 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It probably just needs a new spring on the solenoid end as well as the diverter.

You can bend the nose of the part holding the diverter closer to the relay so it pulls in easier. And then that whole diverter/relay assembly is on a piece of metal that you can bend the whole shebang back a little to get the proper spacing between the end of the arm and the ramp.

LTG : )

325574-i (resized).jpg

woz ball lock nose (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
#5394 1 year ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

but sometimes its the precursor to yet another dead light board.

Could be a loose connector or loose wire in a connector to one of the LED boards.

LTG : )

3 weeks later
#5410 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

so does anyone know an easy way to reset the high scores, etc. on the game?

Hit the Enter button. Go to Full Menu - go to last one - Resets.

Quoted from pinballjah:

Haven't had a chance to check the CD manual,

Probably ancient. Go to jerseyjackpinball.com and under Support download the latest version of the manual.

LTG : )

#5415 1 year ago
Quoted from Marvello:

I've had 2 white ones snap on mine, so far the black is holding up.

You can lower the upper slingshot strength a little too.

LTG : )

#5449 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Has anyone had issues with this board? WOZLED6

Not common for that one to have issues. But even if rare, it could be a problem. ( from tech support experience )

LTG : )

#5468 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

2.0 kit ordered, sounds like its gonna be an ass-load of work!!

Nothing hard. More time consuming.

LTG : )

#5470 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

is there any drilling involved from the top part of the playfield to make the holes bigger. Think that's the only part I might not be comfortable with. (wish I had a crap playfield to test on).

None on top.

All underneath. ( mini playfields too ) Get a collar for your drill bit or wrap tape around it so it only goes so far into the wood for pilot holes for the small boards and frames for bag and hub boards. The ten big boards are an even swap, no new holes.

LTG : )

#5471 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

sounds like its gonna be an ass-load of work!!

A brief synopsis of my converting my WOZ to 2.0 ( they do come with good instructions Butch made up )

I didn't keep track of time, because I didn't really get a kit, I got a box of parts. And a few things were missing and I had to wait for them.

Turn game off. I disconnected all the data harnesses and power connectors from the LED boards. I stripped out all of them that I could do so easily. A few I cut close to bundles of wires and left bits in the harness so I wouldn't have to cut every cable tie under there. I pulled them out of the black plastic tube with all the wires and inserted new wires into the black plastic tube.

I removed the big boards and stuck in the new ones. Then removed all the small LED boards. Then stuck in new ones, I marked spots for new pilot holes and screws. I used one screw for each one, that is plenty. Carefully drilled the pilot holes. You might have to remount one or two so wiring reaches good.

Then I removed the castle playfield and spinning house playfield, removed old LED boards and wiring and stuck in new ones and wiring for power and ethernet. And put the mini playfields back in. ( a good chance to clean under there before you do. And watch so harnesses aren't so low under castle playfield they trap balls in the lanes back there )

Then swapped the power supply.

Then I installed all the ehternet cables. I replaced one foot long one with a two foot long one I bought, the shorter one was stretched tighter than I liked.

Then I installed all the power cables. Mine reaching up to the W9 LED board around the state fair balloon was short so I lengthened it. I zip tied some of the wiring.

Then powered it up. NO LIGHTS. F*CK ! That took awhile to figure out. I had power at all the LED boards and bag and hub boards. Frank figured out that my game had two USB cables on the front right side of the I/O board. One for switches, one for LED boards. I unplugged the LED boards one and voila we had 2.0 Lights.

I stripped out the unused LED USB cable. Then zip tied all the new wiring under the playfield so it looked nice.

It has been working fine ever since.

LTG : )

#5475 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

doesn't sound to complicated.

More time consuming. Take your time, do a good job.

Quoted from hocuslocus:

without some type of instructions.

The instructions that come with are very good.

Quoted from hocuslocus:

did you notice any other changes playfield lighting wise?

Seemed a tiny bit brighter, richer colors. ( my opinion )

Quoted from hocuslocus:

Hoping for a smooth transition.

You'll do fine.

LTG : )

#5486 1 year ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Will these be posted somewhere? I would love to read them before deciding whether to purchase the upgrade.

PM me your email address and I'll send you them.

LTG : )

#5488 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Is there an echo in here??

What What What ? ? ?

LTG : )

#5497 1 year ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

It's a real shame jjp was slapped around for sharing their work before it was finished.

Always happens. Remember all the flak for trying to show WOZ when you could only play two balls, weak flippers, when they were trying to show the direction they were going ? No amount of saying flipper coil power could be increased in future software lessened the blow back.

Quoted from Reznnate:

I doubt they'll risk an early preview again

No sh*t.

LTG : )

#5503 1 year ago
Quoted from jeffr:

I'm wondering if its worth ordering the 2.0 kit just in case, or should I just not worry about it until a problem happens.

I know of at least a few people who have had little or no issues, yet are buying the 2.0 for back up just in case.

Up to the individual to decide if it's worth it. If you have one of the games that chews up boards, it would be worthwhile. 3 or 4 of the big boards and you've paid for the kit.

LTG : )

#5507 1 year ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Would my boards be buffered?

Yes.

LTG : )

#5517 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

I'm thinking it may be easier to try and repair the rubber.

PM me your email address and I'll email you the 10 minute instructions.

LTG : )

#5529 1 year ago
Quoted from PAPinballer:

Can I still upgrade from 6.10 to 6.61?

Yes you can go right to 6.06, just follow the delta instructions.

Quoted from PAPinballer:

It's a Sandisk Cruzer and it has a folder containing 2 PDF's and an executable.

I wouldn't use Sandisk or any USB stick with anything else on it.

Some people have had success with Sandisk, and from what I've seen in tech support, some haven't.

LTG : )

#5531 1 year ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

how long to take off

First time, hour, hour and a half. 4th time - 20 or 30 minutes.

LTG : )

#5536 1 year ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Is that just to take off, Lloyd, or to both take off and put back on?

The whole process. Off, back on, potty and beer break.

LTG : )

#5539 1 year ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Not to mention taking the time to clean and wax the orbit while the playfield is off.

And make sure none of the harnesses are hanging down below the castle playfield trapping balls in the lanes.

LTG : )

#5542 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Troubleshooting the lighting system seems daunting and impossible at first.

He's pretty well versed at figuring this out. His game has a few things going on. Both LED board and connector type stuff. We've talked in the past.

LTG : )

#5544 1 year ago
Quoted from Jvspin:

I never had a cable fail,

Skyemont has some issues you haven't run into.

LTG : )

#5546 1 year ago
Quoted from Jvspin:

I'll leave it here in case it helps someone else.

Thank you for that. We'll never know how many people get help here without posting or asking.

LTG : )

#5558 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinbear:

My right witch target is always on. Is there any way to fix it without remove the whole witch set?

Maybe this will help -

Loosen the nuts circled in RED allowing you to move the switches closer to the plate. Reach around the lifted playfield and tap the strike plate while moving the swiches closer. When you have the sensitivity you want, just tighten the nuts back down.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/89824152@N07/sets/72157634995600921/

LTG : )

#5561 1 year ago

Excellent ! Glad you can enjoy your game now.

LTG : )

#5573 1 year ago
Quoted from Beez:

How do you know if your 75th Ruby Red WOZ is a 2.0 or not?

Look in the manual.

Page C-54 has the old system board layout. Page E-22 and E-24 has the 2.0. If your game has the B.A.G. board and HUN board and ethernet cables, you have the 2.0

Or if you LED boards have a power cable and a couple data harnesses with red and green dots on the connector, you have the older system.

LTG : )

#5574 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It will also not have the small GI led boards all over the place.

2.0 only has 7 less.

LTG : )

#5590 1 year ago
Quoted from monte_:

Any help would be appreciated.

Around the posts and slingshot under the spinning house. Turn the power on that slingshot down a little.

PM me your email address and I'll email you the 10 minute fix for it.

LTG : )

#5593 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

What would be the best way to remove them in order to be able to be able to detach the playfield from the cabinet?

Power to the LED boards. Put labels on each one, remove them. And get them back in the same spots. Phillips head screw driver to remove the screws holding them on.

LTG : )

#5608 1 year ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

I don’t see the GI working in that pic.

Hard to see. You can see it a little in Dorty's face by the state fair balloon, and the clock on the right return lane.

LTG : )

#5619 1 year ago
Quoted from Beez:

Anybody know where the heck this goes? I heard it fall when we pulled the playfield up for the first time ...

Holds one of your two coin chutes in position.

LTG : )

#5626 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

However, any pointers to the solution

Latch below the castle playfield bent ? Door motor bad ?

LTG : )

#5628 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

or maybe they are in the manual?

Rear of the manual. You can download the latest from jerseyjackpinball.com

LTG : )

#5640 1 year ago
Quoted from hd60609:

I figured I can go into settings and reduce the power. If that is the recommendation,

That is what I'd do.

Maybe your house current is stronger than it used to be ?

LTG : )

#5649 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Something went wrong with the wiring

Check page D-9 in the latest manual. You have some connectors not plugged in, plugged into wrong spots, or plugged into a wrong connector in that area.

LTG : )

#5651 1 year ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

Is a transistor out

I'd suspect a bridge rectifier for the 12 volts.

The manual has the pinouts for boards. If you have the unified power supply board, check it's outputs.

LTG : )

1 week later
#5661 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

My castle and munchkinland flippers stopped working all of a sudden.

I hate when that happens. Don't you hate when that happens ?

Quoted from Nepi23:

Is this a known phenomena

Yes. All pins having flipper can have them stop working.

Quoted from Nepi23:

what should one check?

Please go to Tests - Switches - Dedicated, then slowly push your flipper buttons in. One side at a time. Two leaf blade switches on each side. When you slowly push them in you'll see first one, then the other register on the screen.

If you only see the first one register ( your lower flippers ) then turn the game off. Lift playfield. Adjust the leaf blade switches farthest from the flipper button. So they close when you push the flipper button in.

Close game up. Power up. Enjoy playing again.

LTG : )

#5665 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Both flipper leaf switches wouldnt fail at the same time, due to adjustment,

On WOZ, yes they would.

From tech support experience, quite often.

LTG : )

#5668 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I checked fuses F702 and F708, but both gave the peep

Did you remove them from the board and check with a meter ?

One is likely bad. If you lost all high power, more things wouldn't be working.

If not the fuse, then check the coil chart and find the common wire to them. Check continuity from the I/O board to them. I'd go over the connectors at the back of the metal box all the boards are in, be sure they are pushed in tight both sides and you don't have a wire sticking out. Be sure all connectors on I/O board are on tight, USB cables too.

LTG : )