(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

9 years ago


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  • Latest reply 7 days ago by meSz
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Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (9 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (7 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (4 years ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (4 years ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (4 years ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (4 years ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (4 years ago)

Post #11015 Adjustment advice for the monkey Posted by LTG (3 years ago)

Post #12537 7.03 Code Release Posted by bobukcat (2 years ago)


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909 posts in this topic match your search for posts by ltg. You are on page 1 of 4.
#314 9 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

they seem shorter then your normal buzz fuze.

20mm size. Check Bay Area Amusements, Pinball Life, Marco. Radio Shack. Etc.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#351 9 years ago
Quoted from Rockytop:

WOZ newbie question. Is the upper right flipper supposed to kind of rapid fire if you hold the right flipper button down?

No. Please push the connectors to the coil lug on tighter.

LTG : )™

#367 9 years ago
Quoted from bigduke6:

I know this has been asked before but what should be done right away?

I would open it up, check over the insides for any connectors or anything that could have come loose. Look over the playfield underside, front inside of coin door area, back of metal box where the boards are. Things like that.

Set it in place, set the playfield pitch and level. Clean the balls and install.

Power up, marvel at it a second. Then open the coin door and hit the black enter button once, glance at the lower right area of the screen for what ever revision is in the game. 3.0 is the latest.

Then start playing. As you enjoy the game, you can tweak just about everything in it, coil settings, pricing, difficulties, etc. etc.

Time of your life, have a great day. If you have a question during this, give me a call at the tech support phone number. I'm there noon to midnight everyday.

PM me for info on updating the game, calibrating Dorthy's house, etc.

LTG : )™

1 month later
#494 9 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

you can use I believe bd 18 which is located under the bottom right or left sling. Take out the smaller bad bd and replace with the good bd #18. This way, most of your lights will work properly

Well the there is no place like home, yellow brick road, TOTO lights and everything up the right side like lion board and throne room board to and including the rainbow lights won't work.

LTG : )™

2 months later
#526 9 years ago
Quoted from Sijcolo:

Anyone know how to reset high scores?

Open coin door, hit the Enter button. Left column last one that says Resets - in there.

LTG : )

1 month later
#531 9 years ago
Quoted from skywalker:

Whats the recommended pitch level setting for Woz

I have the one here at 6.5 degrees.

LTG : )™

#534 9 years ago
Quoted from DaveH:

Taylor, can you toss up a picture when you install it?

LTG : )™

IMG_0572.JPGIMG_0572.JPG IMG_0576.JPGIMG_0576.JPG
1 year later
#1831 7 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

The magnet seems to be sitting slightly above the playfield. Is there a way to adjust the height of the magnet?

Should be able to lower it from below. Loosen nut and turn huge screw/pole lower.

LTG : )

6 months later
#3354 7 years ago
Quoted from Spg101:

Any of these help?

Yes.

Quoted from Spg101:

I didn't look to see exactly where the light boards are.

All the big green things in your pictures.

Your second picture down. WOZ1 or the fish board. Near the top of the board, see V2.0 ? You have the latest version 2 boards. In use since mid December 2016.

LTG : )

#3365 7 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

will there be some sort of upgrade kit made available to those with Woz 1.x machines at some point?

No idea at this time.

LTG : )

#3398 7 years ago
Quoted from tp:

Thanks for any suggestions.

Could need a little tweaking. The little nose below the coil, bend it up a tiny bit so the metal plate holding the arm is closer to the coil and gets grabbed better.

LTG : )

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#3422 7 years ago

It's call JJP tomorrow extension 1 and Victor or Frank will help you.

LTG : )

#3467 7 years ago
Quoted from Radius118:

, but nothing will happen until someone inside JJP says "Hey, maybe we should put together a kit for WoZ 1.0 owners and make it reasonably priced." Who that will be is anyone's guess but the seed needs to be planted somewhere.

Talk to Jack at shows.

LTG : )

#3492 7 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

I reeeeally want to be careful not to come across as some ungrateful d'bag.

You aren't. You didn't get what you paid for.

Quoted from moonduckie78:

And I haven't heard back from Automated

Call them. Insist on talking to Mike Daddona.

LTG : )

#3500 7 years ago
Quoted from Spg101:

does not run where the manual says it does.

Have you downloaded the latest WOZ manual ? Rear section has the new lighting in it.

http://support.jerseyjackpinball.com/downloads/woz/Wizard_of_Oz_Manual_3_5_Dec_2016.pdf

LTG : )

#3531 7 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Think I just need to replace the coil sleeve, go for a full re-build, or something else??

Easy to remove the coil stop and check coil stop and plunger and coil sleeve for wear.

I'd check the wiring to the coil lugs too.

LTG : )

#3548 7 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Does anyone have a B/W cross on a part number of the coil sleeve

Before ordering parts, check the plunger end for wear. If sharp or mushroomed you need plunger assembly, coil stop, and coil sleeve.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#3620 7 years ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

The two "lugs" on the side seem to rotate freely.

Do you mean loose on the motor shaft ?

LTG : )

1 week later
#3659 6 years ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

but how do you submit a formal ticket for support.

Please go to the website and open a new one. Last weekend things like the parts store and support desk were moved and the old might not be accessed.

LTG : )

#3664 6 years ago

Yes. Please start a new ticket.

LTG : )

#3669 6 years ago
Quoted from Spg101:

Any idea where I can get one?

You have one right there. Small, thin flat nosed pliers. Bend a loop over the broken end. Hook it back up. Back in business.

LTG : )

#3671 6 years ago

Broke spring. Flat nose pliers in last loop, bend over 90 degrees. Fixed good as new.

LTG : )

broke (resized).JPGbroke (resized).JPG

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#3682 6 years ago
Quoted from netcivil:

any idea which spring would best replace the one on the munchkin land ball lock?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-96 I'd try this one.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#3767 6 years ago

Your emails may not be getting through or to the right people.

Please go to Support on jerseyjackpinball.com and open a new ticket. Describe what has gone on, previous ticket numbers, and what the game is doing now.

Thank you.
LTG : )

1 week later
#3790 6 years ago
Quoted from TomT:

has anyone had to replace theirs?

Try bypassing the back of the metal box and plug directly into the motherboard or soundboard.

LTG : )

#3800 6 years ago
Quoted from rubberducks:

Thanks in advance for any help.

From your description, it sounds like your 12 volts is missing. I'd check fuses on I/O board and power supply board ( if your game has one ), and then onto connectors involved going out from power supply board and I/O board.

LTG : )

#3804 6 years ago
Quoted from rubberducks:

Surely those are on 12V?

Then go over all your 12 volt connectors.

LTG : )

#3829 6 years ago
Quoted from TomT:

has anyone had to replace one?

Rare, but there have been a few.

LTG : )

#3847 6 years ago
Quoted from TRAMD:

Where/who are the best places to get these?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-throne-room-mod-cover-for-acrylic-plate Indy makes some of these, great to deal with.

LTG : )

#3851 6 years ago

Looks like a LED board failed early in the chain. W6 to #29 to # 1 to #2 etc. Find the first one out after the last working one, the first one out failed.

Page C-54 in the manual shows how data harnesses run. If the data harness reaches, you can by pass the failed LED board to get the rest going, then go into Settings - scroll down and turn the by passed board off. Be sure and turn it back on when you put a new LED board in.

If the game is under warranty, you can open a ticket on the support desk to get a new one. If not, the store on their website sells them.

LTG : )

#3853 6 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Connect/disconnect with power off always.

You can move data harnesses around with power on, power connectors always power off.

LTG : )

1 week later
#3891 6 years ago
Quoted from Guzz4851:

I sifted quick about light boards, can't find so forgive me....

Call JJP extension 1, have your serial number ready 0870 - - - - , they can look up what is in your game.

LTG : )

#3895 6 years ago
Quoted from lschmidlin:

Not sure how to test it.

Put a meter on it, see if you have 12 volts DC at the connector.

If you have voltage, call JJP to order a new one. 24-0001-05 LED Strip, Green

LTG : )

#3901 6 years ago
Quoted from Gorgar123:

Seems like the correct part and they have it listed as 19-3016-00?

Correct part and cheap. That is about the price of the LED strip with out connector and the acrylic head.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#3932 6 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Anyone think it's worth it to replace perfectly working, but unbufered 7.5v light boards with the new 2.0 boards? Cost is probably $800-$1k but wondering in the long run if it would be worth it?

Cost will more likely be north of $2K. Not sure they will make kits.

Strip out all LED boards, remove all data harnesses and power cables that are cable tied to everything. Drill GI tube holes bigger. Put LED boards back in, all new data and power cables, BAG and HUB boards. New power supply. etc. etc.

If, and that is a huge "IF", a person is mechanically and electrically proficient , you are looking at 10 plus hours of work.

And I won't be doing tech support on this.

LTG : )

#3935 6 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

can you now replace an un-buffered 7.5v with one of the buffered ones?

Yes.

LTG : )

#3939 6 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

It would be great if JJP provided kits and instructions for owners who have crappy ecle playfields they are swapping, especially if they are going to incur the cost to upgrade themselves.

I agree. I'd like to see them available. Parts are available. Instructions won't be easy.

If someone is capable of the playfield swap, then they could do it.

And if JJP makes kits. And the phone rings. I'll try and help. I'm just worried that an undertaking of this magnitude, there won't be much on the phone or email, that I'll be able to help with.

LTG : )

#3941 6 years ago

Might be because a couple are turned off. I'd replace the bad ones and then see where you are at.

LTG : )

1 week later
#3965 6 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Didn't see on their site, is this one a beta through the owners forum?

Not on owners forum. Will be on site soon.

LTG : )

1 month later
#4182 6 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

Should I just remove it?

Yes, instructions in the rear of the manual. More time consuming than hard. When you stick it back in, be sure none of the cables drop down and block the playfield lanes back there and stop balls from rolling through.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#4237 6 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

It just makes a notable whirring sound when it's supposed to open.

Allen head set screws holding door to motor shaft are loose. Item 7d on page C-37 in the manual.

Remove castle playfield. Remove door. Drop motor assembly down, tighten, reassemble.

LTG : )

1 week later
#4324 6 years ago
Quoted from lschmidlin:

but not sure where to get them.

http://www.britemods.com/britebuttons-.html

Other places too.

LTG : )

#4333 6 years ago
Quoted from WyseGuy:

Can it play in the meantime?

Super Glue the ends together. Rubber bands. Stock spares.

LTG : )

#4360 6 years ago
Quoted from davin72:

Every so often during a game it will come up saying the coin door is open.

Metal flap pushing in the two white switches probably needs bending to do a better job. Assuming the coin door harness isn't in the way of the flap and switches.

LTG : )

#4362 6 years ago
Quoted from davin72:

I thought about that but even with the door open I can push in both switches and nothing happens. I let it set for a minute and all of a sudden it fixes itself. It's real random and that's why I just figured the switch was going bad.

Please open a ticket on the support desk at jerseyjackpinball.com they'll get you what you need.

LTG : )

#4376 6 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I want to write down my audits etc..
Does it save audits past an update?

Before I do any update. I go to Utilities and plug in a USB stick and do setting back up, then after update go back in and restore. That seems to save everything. Settings you made, scores, etc.

LTG : )

#4378 6 years ago
Quoted from rai:

That's nifty, can you do that with Stern SAM system?

I don't think so.

LTG : )

#4389 6 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

The piece that connects the Monkey screw drive to the motor shaft spins freely and looking for a permanent solution. I can push the coupling towards the screw side and it will grab it for a while, but will eventually spin freely, gets old.

Clear rubber tubing between the motor and threaded rod. Hardware store or pet store should have it.

If you have the original plastic coupling, check the diagram in the current manual for the change above.

LTG : )

#4394 6 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Is it part 12?

Yes. A few years back changed to rubber tubing.

LTG : )

#4402 6 years ago
Quoted from mountaingamer:

and maybe check the switch behind the single castle door - it may be a opto

Micro mini switch.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#4440 6 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

Anyone have thoughts on chasing this down?

I'd check the wiring for the sensors that the ball triggers. Maybe something came loose.

LTG : )

1 week later
#4457 6 years ago
Quoted from rai:

what's the diverter, do you have a picture?

For WOZ, but same principle for all games using a Williams ball trough, like Williams, JJP, and Remakes.

http://www.pinplay.com/5/adjusting_the_ball_trough_on_woz.html

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#4487 6 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

What metal part are you talking about? This doesn't sound normal to me.

The nose circled in red. Bend up a little so the metal plate the arm is riveted to is closer to the coil.

LTG : )

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#4496 6 years ago

Don't worry about the connector.

Drop target - go into Tests - switches - matrixed, see if the drop target switch works. May need adjusting.

LTG : )

#4504 6 years ago

No turning back now. LTG : )

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#4507 6 years ago
Quoted from clg:

Are you converting to the new lighting?

Yes. The kits will be available soon. I need to be prepared if anyone needs help. Butch Peel has done a good job with instructions. So I don't think there will be many calls.

LTG : )

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#4513 6 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Does it still require drilling the playfield?

Make the GI tubes bigger - no.

Pilot holes for the GI boards and frames for the bag and hub boards, yes.

LTG : )

#4516 6 years ago

Work on WOZ continues.

LTG : )

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#4520 6 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

When your done, will you come and do mine? Practice makes perfect.

Love to. You moving to Minnesota ?

Quoted from DeathHimself:

When you finish Lloyd give us an idea on how long it took you, so I can x4 and know how long it will take me.

I'm not pushing straight through. So my time would be off. I'm told about 8 to 10 hours.

LTG : )

#4529 6 years ago
Quoted from EricHadley:

So that connector is for the castle flipper EOS switch, which I am getting an alert on to check......Shouldn't it be connected somewhere?

If it is for the castle flipper EOS, yes, it goes somewhere. From back of the metal box up to the underside of the castle playfield.

Quoted from EricHadley:

Also The right castle door isn't opening, looks like that is directly connected to a motor, so is the motor faulty?

Listen to it, if it sounds like the motor is turning. Then the set screws holding the door shaft to the motor are loose. Remove door, remove castle playfield, drop motor assembly down to get access to them.

LTG : )

#4534 6 years ago

2) - You can go into Settings and scroll down to ball lock one, two, three. And adjust timing there. More or less as needed.

1) - Ball jam opto flaky ? Shooter lane switch stuck down ?

LTG : )

1 week later
#4552 6 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

And if I fix the connection, the lights will work again?

Yes. ( assuming you didn't hurt anything else )

LTG : )

#4560 6 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Is it hard to replace the upper rubber

PM me your email address and I'll email you the ten minute how to article.

LTG : )

#4563 6 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

What size rubber ring ?

2 inch

Turn the power down too, on that slingshot, if it hasn't been done yet.

LTG : )

#4571 6 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

but something is causing the door to stop!

The door shaft might be coming loose from the motor shaft below the castle playfield.

LTG : )

#4573 6 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

If this were the case, wouldn't the same thing happen at the beginning of rescue multiball?

You would think so.

But I've never had one while it was coming loose. I usually hear about them when they are totally loose.

LTG : )

#4588 6 years ago
Quoted from PinballBJB:

I've opened a ticket with Support.

They may have another idea or two to check. I'd measure power to the motor, see if it reverses or not. Then you know the potential of bad motor or bad board it plugs onto.

I'd reseat the motor wires to the board it plugs onto. And be sure the threaded rod has clean, fresh lube on it.

LTG : )

#4598 6 years ago
Quoted from shiffdog:

Can anyone recommend any tricks?

Loosen screws turn a little.

Be sure playfield hangers aren't bent and plunger lines up with shooter lane good.

LTG : )

#4603 6 years ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

I just noticed there is a usb stick plugged into the computer case with my games serial number on it - is this for Pindemption?

Probably not. You need that or the game won't check serial number and stuff and boot up.

If you buy Pindemption, you get a new one of those the swap with the dongle you have now.

You can see if Pindemption is an option in your software and turn it on, if it is. I would back up settings first. Because if you disable Pindemption and go back to normal WOZ, a lot of crap is messed up.

LTG : )

#4605 6 years ago

If it disabled the monkey. It did a lot more. Like you can only coin up for one credit at a time. And other stuff I forget but you'll discover.

No idea on attract mode.

LTG : )

#4607 6 years ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

Out of curiosity does this mean that I do have Pindemption and it's possibly corrupt or something or is the menu option available on everyone's machine

Something is corrupted.

I don't believe the menu option is there unless your game has the Pindemption dongle.

LTG : )

#4623 6 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

I believe we're up to 6.50 now, right?

6.06

LTG : )

#4625 6 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Hes got all the facts.

Like check JJP's website to see what the current software version is ? ( I did, just to be current )

LTG : )

#4628 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

6.50 delta is latest. 6.06 is last full install.

Steve is right. ( I goofed when I checked and the 6.50 delta starts with 6.06 to 6.50, sorry )

LTG : )

#4727 6 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

What should I do?

Put a piece of black electrician tape on the monkey's magnet.

LTG : )

#4731 6 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Seriously?!? That's all I've needed to do all this time?

Interesting.

Yes.

LTG : )

#4755 6 years ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

UGH. I just finally updated to 6.50 yesterday...........

6.60 is a delta, simple and fast to do.

LTG : )

#4761 6 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Every time I try to do a Delta update, it corrupts the game's file system and I need to reload the full ISO and then try the Delta update again. Happens every time on my WOZ and Dialed In. Frustrating.

You doing something Wrong ? I ask because it happens on two different machines.

LTG : )

#4776 6 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Tried upgrading to 6.60, followed the instructions 100%, but when I checked it still said 6.50.

Should I format my USB stick and try again? Use a different USB? What am I doing wrong?

I'd try a different USB stick first.

LTG : )

#4783 6 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Maybe the stick is corrupt?

There are times the game simply doesn't like one stick.

LTG : )

#4785 6 years ago

Splash screen means the motherboard is working. Read error sounds like hard drive.

Please go to jerseyjackpinball.com and under support open a ticket.

LTG : )

#4805 6 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Think I need to lube my rod?

If it makes noise, doesn't move good. Yes. The flat bar the thing rides on too.

LTG : )

#4809 6 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

ust updated to 6.6 and the screen is no longer being filled. Bottom and left edge are black.

Please open a ticket on it. Maybe bad download, maybe something else ? First one I've heard of.

They can look up what is in your game as far as build and figure the what next.

LTG : )

#4812 6 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Just updated to 6.6 and the screen is no longer being filled. Bottom and left edge are black.

Ted posted on the JJP Forum what to do. ( you may have already seen it )

LTG : )

#4821 6 years ago
Quoted from PAPinballer:

PS: I have another issue with the left flipper that I'll be posting for help if I don't first see a solution to it in the forums (weak flipper that simply collapses when the ball hits the edge - kind of like the weak flipper mode but happening when I'm not even in that mode).

Clean the flipper button leaf blade and EOS leaf blade switches.

LTG : )

#4838 6 years ago
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

What is best flash drive to use for JJP games.

No idea if it's the best. I've always used PNY ones, 8GB. No problems yet.

LTG : )

#4845 6 years ago
Quoted from chuckcasey:

Any idea why it wouldn't stay down?

The springs on the shaft the feet/door are on ?

LTG : )

#4867 6 years ago

If your game has a universal power supply board, I'd start there.

Or take a meter and check any LED board to see if you have power at the purple and black wires.

If you have a switching power supply on the middle bottom of the back wall of the cabinet, put a meter on it and see what it's doing.

LTG : )

#4879 6 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Did you customize that or did it happen automatically?

It automatically happened after he put a custom message in.

LTG : )

#4903 6 years ago
Quoted from Gov:

I hate to put locktite on there. Any suggestions?

Locktite blue.

LTG : )

#4908 6 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Is the metal bracket suppose to begin this position in front of the switch?

No. Tab on drop target pushes switch closed, not the metal pusher thingy.

LTG : )

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#4926 6 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Right now Im just tweaking the ball lock arm to get it right again after 4 years of continuous play.

Something that might help. That whole assembly is mounted to a piece you can bend forward or back. Get it working right, then bend forward or back to set the front of the arm to the right height for the balls.

LTG : )

1 week later
#4991 6 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Could you have reversed the wires on the coil?

Coil shouldn't have a diode, diode is on the I/O board ( I left you a message ) so diode on the I/O board could be bad.

LTG : )

#4995 6 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

This is how the coil came from JJP. This is the org coil with diode.

Yes, it happens. And sadly easy to mix up the wires to the coil then.

LTG : )

#4997 6 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Can u tell me which Resistor?

Diode.

I'm sorry I don't know. Not in the manual. You might call JJP and ask Frank or Ken.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#5024 6 years ago
Quoted from billycrna:

how did you rectify it?

Two brass screws on top of the lockdown bar receiver are used to adjust the sliding mechanism that holds the lockdown bar down so you can make it looser or tighter.

LTG : )

#5046 6 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

my first 6 small inserts that start the yellow brick road seem off.

Turn game off. Look at them. Yellow inserts for the first 6, all the rest of the inserts are clear.

LTG : )

1 week later
#5107 6 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

the entire Game shuts off except the back glass light and coin door bulbs.

Power cord into back of cabinet in tight ?

If your game has an ATX power supply, power cord into it tight ?

Parts in the metal box over on/off switch starting to burn/fail ?

Could you plug a light or something into the service outlet and see if it goes out the same time the game goes out ?

LTG : )

#5117 6 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

The game does not boot and the display will say, no signal.

If your game has a reset switch inside the big metal box with all the boards, push it once with the power on.

If no reset switch, then with the power on, very carefully briefly short pins 6 and 8 on the connector JFP1 on the motherboard. See picture.

LTG : )

photo 2 (resized).JPGphoto 2 (resized).JPG

#5119 6 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Where is the reset button? Can u show pic?

If your game has one, it would be buried in the metal box with all the boards, and plugged onto the connector in the picture.

LTG : )

#5121 6 years ago
Quoted from chalkup8:

Could someone please direct me to where I can get some 12 volt led's for the spot lights on Woz.

Check out Comet - http://www.cometpinball.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=12+volt

LTG : )

#5123 6 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Try the Optix Maximus:

This one is 1 watt of light : http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1wt1012v.htm

LTG : )

#5128 6 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

I looked for it, but couldn't find it.

Settings - Coils - scroll the whole way down, ramp lock up timing.

LTG : )

#5149 6 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Thx for any ideas...

Reseat SATA cables, both ends between motherboard and hard drive.

Try running it blind, unhook monitor power, maybe it is the issue.

LTG : )

#5150 6 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Thx for any ideas...

Be sure the connector on the crystal ball hasn't come apart or lost pins or anything.

LTG : )

#5152 6 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

what are sata cables?

Flat looking things, follow them from hard drive to motherboard.

LTG : )

#5153 6 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

I turned monitor off as soon as it booted.

Try it before turning the game on.

LTG : )

#5159 6 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

How do I get it out?

Everything unplugged ? Sure you didn't miss a screw ? Should come out. If it has a gasket on the connector end, maybe pull a little.

LTG : )

#5175 6 years ago
Quoted from Bos98:

buy a replacement light board for it?

The older small boards are available on their website : 7.5 or 5 volts - http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/

If it's the 2.0 boards, best call. 732-364-9900 ext. 1 ask for Paul.

LTG : )

#5178 6 years ago
Quoted from rockrand:

Loyd did you ever finish the 2.0 conversion

Yes.

Quoted from rockrand:

I thought you were sent a kit?

Kind of. More parts than an actual kit. Preliminary to JJP's making a kit available.

LTG : )

#5182 6 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

So would the conversion kit pretty much rule out future light board issues?

Yes. If your WOZ loses boards. Not all do.

LTG : )

#5185 6 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

I just talked to support on Friday ordering yet another batch of boards and they said the 2.0kit wasn’t out yet. Is it really out?

If support said it wasn't, it isn't out yet.

LTG : )

#5187 6 years ago

Probably. The newer buffered boards perform well. Some games may have a board go out, and some games don't.

If you rarely lose a board, I wouldn't worry.

If you lose a bunch or some of the big boards. Then I'd consider the 2.0 kit when it comes out.

LTG : )

#5189 6 years ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

Lowering the playfield gently or putting the glass-on even caused it to crash.

Something's loose. You check the power cord into the back of the cabinet ?

Quoted from Reznnate:

Q2. Is it possible to decipher the error log?
N: 2018-02-27 01:47:21 A: 00000000004c9014, S: 0, E: 12006, T: 3, P: 204

Jibberish, won't help.

LTG : )

#5193 6 years ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

I can't seem to isolate the general location.

Quoted from Reznnate:

Lowering the playfield gently or putting the glass-on even caused it to crash.

Like the black flex tubes the wires go through are dragging across wiring or something at the rear of the huge metal box.

LTG : )

#5233 6 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

I just installed a new mother board. I have a keyboard plugged in but don't have directions as to what to do next.

If the new motherboard has one memory stick and two slots. Grab a memory stick from the old motherboard and stick it in the new one.

Then if the screen comes up with the press F1 or press F2 stuff, hit F2. Unplug the keyboard, turn off game. Turn game back on and see if it's okay.

LTG : )

1 week later
#5259 6 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

For anyone going to Arcade Expo in Banning this year they have setup a JJP room with a WOZ, Hobbbit, Dialed In and two POTC prototypes (there for the show).

http://www.arcadeexpo.com/ I believe Jack and Butch will be there. They are at TPF on Friday, so maybe there Saturday or Sunday ?

LTG : )

1 week later
#5299 6 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

Everything seems fine now.

If the problem returns. I'd clean off the old grease and put on new.

LTG : )

#5303 6 years ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

What grease do you recommend?

Any light grease. I use one for the chain drive on garage door openers.

LTG : )

#5330 6 years ago
Quoted from audihere:

Does anyone else distribute them?

If your game is out of warranty, you can but new LED boards on their website, jerseyjackpinball.com in the store.

LTG : )

#5331 6 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Call them directly ! they really want to hear from you.

Call during EST business hours. 732-364-9900 ext 1

Don't call Lloyd. I don't have access to ticket desk or be able to send parts.

LTG : )

#5335 6 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

He is fun to talk to and always around!

And I can tell you my newest joke. And plans for my "seminar" mug for Mike's show in Chicago this October.

LTG : )

#5336 6 years ago
Quoted from whitey:

Sorry for sideways photo

Fixed it for you.

LTG : )

dfdbd5ba01c46c6c23ae6bbd5e96cc92d4ad4e51 (resized).jpgdfdbd5ba01c46c6c23ae6bbd5e96cc92d4ad4e51 (resized).jpg

#5343 6 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It probably just needs a new spring on the solenoid end as well as the diverter.

You can bend the nose of the part holding the diverter closer to the relay so it pulls in easier. And then that whole diverter/relay assembly is on a piece of metal that you can bend the whole shebang back a little to get the proper spacing between the end of the arm and the ramp.

LTG : )

325574-i (resized).jpg325574-i (resized).jpg

woz ball lock nose (resized).JPGwoz ball lock nose (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
#5394 5 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

but sometimes its the precursor to yet another dead light board.

Could be a loose connector or loose wire in a connector to one of the LED boards.

LTG : )

3 weeks later
#5410 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

so does anyone know an easy way to reset the high scores, etc. on the game?

Hit the Enter button. Go to Full Menu - go to last one - Resets.

Quoted from pinballjah:

Haven't had a chance to check the CD manual,

Probably ancient. Go to jerseyjackpinball.com and under Support download the latest version of the manual.

LTG : )

#5415 5 years ago
Quoted from Marvello:

I've had 2 white ones snap on mine, so far the black is holding up.

You can lower the upper slingshot strength a little too.

LTG : )

#5449 5 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Has anyone had issues with this board? WOZLED6

Not common for that one to have issues. But even if rare, it could be a problem. ( from tech support experience )

LTG : )

#5468 5 years ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

2.0 kit ordered, sounds like its gonna be an ass-load of work!!

Nothing hard. More time consuming.

LTG : )

#5470 5 years ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

is there any drilling involved from the top part of the playfield to make the holes bigger. Think that's the only part I might not be comfortable with. (wish I had a crap playfield to test on).

None on top.

All underneath. ( mini playfields too ) Get a collar for your drill bit or wrap tape around it so it only goes so far into the wood for pilot holes for the small boards and frames for bag and hub boards. The ten big boards are an even swap, no new holes.

LTG : )

#5471 5 years ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

sounds like its gonna be an ass-load of work!!

A brief synopsis of my converting my WOZ to 2.0 ( they do come with good instructions Butch made up )

I didn't keep track of time, because I didn't really get a kit, I got a box of parts. And a few things were missing and I had to wait for them.

Turn game off. I disconnected all the data harnesses and power connectors from the LED boards. I stripped out all of them that I could do so easily. A few I cut close to bundles of wires and left bits in the harness so I wouldn't have to cut every cable tie under there. I pulled them out of the black plastic tube with all the wires and inserted new wires into the black plastic tube.

I removed the big boards and stuck in the new ones. Then removed all the small LED boards. Then stuck in new ones, I marked spots for new pilot holes and screws. I used one screw for each one, that is plenty. Carefully drilled the pilot holes. You might have to remount one or two so wiring reaches good.

Then I removed the castle playfield and spinning house playfield, removed old LED boards and wiring and stuck in new ones and wiring for power and ethernet. And put the mini playfields back in. ( a good chance to clean under there before you do. And watch so harnesses aren't so low under castle playfield they trap balls in the lanes back there )

Then swapped the power supply.

Then I installed all the ehternet cables. I replaced one foot long one with a two foot long one I bought, the shorter one was stretched tighter than I liked.

Then I installed all the power cables. Mine reaching up to the W9 LED board around the state fair balloon was short so I lengthened it. I zip tied some of the wiring.

Then powered it up. NO LIGHTS. F*CK ! That took awhile to figure out. I had power at all the LED boards and bag and hub boards. Frank figured out that my game had two USB cables on the front right side of the I/O board. One for switches, one for LED boards. I unplugged the LED boards one and voila we had 2.0 Lights.

I stripped out the unused LED USB cable. Then zip tied all the new wiring under the playfield so it looked nice.

It has been working fine ever since.

LTG : )

#5475 5 years ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

doesn't sound to complicated.

More time consuming. Take your time, do a good job.

Quoted from hocuslocus:

without some type of instructions.

The instructions that come with are very good.

Quoted from hocuslocus:

did you notice any other changes playfield lighting wise?

Seemed a tiny bit brighter, richer colors. ( my opinion )

Quoted from hocuslocus:

Hoping for a smooth transition.

You'll do fine.

LTG : )

#5486 5 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Will these be posted somewhere? I would love to read them before deciding whether to purchase the upgrade.

PM me your email address and I'll send you them.

LTG : )

#5488 5 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Is there an echo in here??

What What What ? ? ?

LTG : )

#5497 5 years ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

It's a real shame jjp was slapped around for sharing their work before it was finished.

Always happens. Remember all the flak for trying to show WOZ when you could only play two balls, weak flippers, when they were trying to show the direction they were going ? No amount of saying flipper coil power could be increased in future software lessened the blow back.

Quoted from Reznnate:

I doubt they'll risk an early preview again

No sh*t.

LTG : )

#5503 5 years ago
Quoted from jeffr:

I'm wondering if its worth ordering the 2.0 kit just in case, or should I just not worry about it until a problem happens.

I know of at least a few people who have had little or no issues, yet are buying the 2.0 for back up just in case.

Up to the individual to decide if it's worth it. If you have one of the games that chews up boards, it would be worthwhile. 3 or 4 of the big boards and you've paid for the kit.

LTG : )

#5507 5 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Would my boards be buffered?

Yes.

LTG : )

#5517 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

I'm thinking it may be easier to try and repair the rubber.

PM me your email address and I'll email you the 10 minute instructions.

LTG : )

#5529 5 years ago
Quoted from PAPinballer:

Can I still upgrade from 6.10 to 6.61?

Yes you can go right to 6.06, just follow the delta instructions.

Quoted from PAPinballer:

It's a Sandisk Cruzer and it has a folder containing 2 PDF's and an executable.

I wouldn't use Sandisk or any USB stick with anything else on it.

Some people have had success with Sandisk, and from what I've seen in tech support, some haven't.

LTG : )

#5531 5 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

how long to take off

First time, hour, hour and a half. 4th time - 20 or 30 minutes.

LTG : )

#5536 5 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Is that just to take off, Lloyd, or to both take off and put back on?

The whole process. Off, back on, potty and beer break.

LTG : )

#5539 5 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Not to mention taking the time to clean and wax the orbit while the playfield is off.

And make sure none of the harnesses are hanging down below the castle playfield trapping balls in the lanes.

LTG : )

#5542 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Troubleshooting the lighting system seems daunting and impossible at first.

He's pretty well versed at figuring this out. His game has a few things going on. Both LED board and connector type stuff. We've talked in the past.

LTG : )

#5544 5 years ago
Quoted from Jvspin:

I never had a cable fail,

Skyemont has some issues you haven't run into.

LTG : )

#5546 5 years ago
Quoted from Jvspin:

I'll leave it here in case it helps someone else.

Thank you for that. We'll never know how many people get help here without posting or asking.

LTG : )

#5558 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinbear:

My right witch target is always on. Is there any way to fix it without remove the whole witch set?

Maybe this will help -

Loosen the nuts circled in RED allowing you to move the switches closer to the plate. Reach around the lifted playfield and tap the strike plate while moving the swiches closer. When you have the sensitivity you want, just tighten the nuts back down.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/89824152@N07/sets/72157634995600921/

LTG : )

#5561 5 years ago

Excellent ! Glad you can enjoy your game now.

LTG : )

#5573 5 years ago
Quoted from Beez:

How do you know if your 75th Ruby Red WOZ is a 2.0 or not?

Look in the manual.

Page C-54 has the old system board layout. Page E-22 and E-24 has the 2.0. If your game has the B.A.G. board and HUN board and ethernet cables, you have the 2.0

Or if you LED boards have a power cable and a couple data harnesses with red and green dots on the connector, you have the older system.

LTG : )

#5574 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It will also not have the small GI led boards all over the place.

2.0 only has 7 less.

LTG : )

#5590 5 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

Any help would be appreciated.

Around the posts and slingshot under the spinning house. Turn the power on that slingshot down a little.

PM me your email address and I'll email you the 10 minute fix for it.

LTG : )

#5593 5 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

What would be the best way to remove them in order to be able to be able to detach the playfield from the cabinet?

Power to the LED boards. Put labels on each one, remove them. And get them back in the same spots. Phillips head screw driver to remove the screws holding them on.

LTG : )

#5608 5 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

I don’t see the GI working in that pic.

Hard to see. You can see it a little in Dorty's face by the state fair balloon, and the clock on the right return lane.

LTG : )

#5619 5 years ago
Quoted from Beez:

Anybody know where the heck this goes? I heard it fall when we pulled the playfield up for the first time ...

Holds one of your two coin chutes in position.

LTG : )

#5626 5 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

However, any pointers to the solution

Latch below the castle playfield bent ? Door motor bad ?

LTG : )

#5628 5 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

or maybe they are in the manual?

Rear of the manual. You can download the latest from jerseyjackpinball.com

LTG : )

#5640 5 years ago
Quoted from hd60609:

I figured I can go into settings and reduce the power. If that is the recommendation,

That is what I'd do.

Maybe your house current is stronger than it used to be ?

LTG : )

#5649 5 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Something went wrong with the wiring

Check page D-9 in the latest manual. You have some connectors not plugged in, plugged into wrong spots, or plugged into a wrong connector in that area.

LTG : )

#5651 5 years ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

Is a transistor out

I'd suspect a bridge rectifier for the 12 volts.

The manual has the pinouts for boards. If you have the unified power supply board, check it's outputs.

LTG : )

1 week later
#5661 5 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

My castle and munchkinland flippers stopped working all of a sudden.

I hate when that happens. Don't you hate when that happens ?

Quoted from Nepi23:

Is this a known phenomena

Yes. All pins having flipper can have them stop working.

Quoted from Nepi23:

what should one check?

Please go to Tests - Switches - Dedicated, then slowly push your flipper buttons in. One side at a time. Two leaf blade switches on each side. When you slowly push them in you'll see first one, then the other register on the screen.

If you only see the first one register ( your lower flippers ) then turn the game off. Lift playfield. Adjust the leaf blade switches farthest from the flipper button. So they close when you push the flipper button in.

Close game up. Power up. Enjoy playing again.

LTG : )

#5665 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Both flipper leaf switches wouldnt fail at the same time, due to adjustment,

On WOZ, yes they would.

From tech support experience, quite often.

LTG : )

#5668 5 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I checked fuses F702 and F708, but both gave the peep

Did you remove them from the board and check with a meter ?

One is likely bad. If you lost all high power, more things wouldn't be working.

If not the fuse, then check the coil chart and find the common wire to them. Check continuity from the I/O board to them. I'd go over the connectors at the back of the metal box all the boards are in, be sure they are pushed in tight both sides and you don't have a wire sticking out. Be sure all connectors on I/O board are on tight, USB cables too.

LTG : )

#5673 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinbear:

Do I find the answer?

If motor is turning and door isn't moving, yes.

LTG : )

#5675 5 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

would appreciate the help.

Sounds like the relay with the door latch below the castle playfield is out of whack.

LTG : )

#5677 5 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

Is there a thread on how to fix that?

I don't recall one. Instructions to remove the castle playfield are in the manual.

LTG : )

#5685 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Physically binding up,
Wire fell off, cable disconnected, fuse etc...

Shooter lane switch not working.

LTG : )

#5691 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Can someone show me how to reassemble this loose part.

Find the two screws on the floor of the cabinet.

The switch gets mounted to the bracket with the two holes. In order - Bracket - Fish Paper Insulator - Switch Body - Screws.

LTG : )

shooters (resized).JPGshooters (resized).JPG
#5695 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

I kept getting a "skill shot" bonus every time a new ball would start.

Please go into Test - Switches - Matrixed. See if skill shot switch is closed, or by banging on the playfield it registers. Probable needs a little adjusting.

Try and find the 2/56ths by 5/8ths screw and fill the other hole. If you tighten the single screw down to tight you might bind the switch and it won't work.

LTG : )

#5697 5 years ago
Quoted from Beez:

Any thoughts?

Door shaft loose on motor shaft ? Bad motor ? Latch below the playfield bent and not unlocking it ?

LTG : )

1 week later
#5712 5 years ago
Quoted from boomgopinball:

What's the next steps in diagnosing?

See if you have power at the LED boards. If not check the power source next.

LTG : )

#5715 5 years ago
Quoted from coz6:

I have found that my light board

His issue isn't a light board. It's a LED strip separate from the playfield LEDs.

LTG : )

#5721 5 years ago
Quoted from boomgopinball:

Very open to suggestions.

Right front side of the I/O board. With power off, reseat USB cable for the lights.

LTG : )

#5740 5 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Love any help thanks so much!

I saw your service email and sent this.

Please check out page C-54 in the manual ( you can download it at jerseyjackpinball.com ) that page shows the data harness path. From W6 to #29, to #1, to #2, to #3, etc. etc.

Please go into Tests - LEDs - All LEDs, this turns any working all white. Lift playfield and lean on backbox. You can see the working ones kind of glow.

They are wired in series, a straight line. Find the last working one, the one after it that is out is the bad one. With the power on, you can by pass the data harnesses on the LED boards, bypass the bad one, and turn off in settings. ( be sure and turn it back on when you replace it ) this will help you identify a bad one.

As an example, say #15 was out. You can run the data harness from red on W2, to green on #16 instead of #15. If the rest light up, you know #15 is the bad one.

With the power on you can move data harnesses. They go red to green from board to board. Don't mess with the power connectors with the power on.

Looking at your picture, it looks like #25 ( the T in T O T O ) is on, then it goes to #26, W4, and #27, etc. up to the end, the R A I N B O W lights. Look at this path on page C-54 in the manual to figure the bad board. See if #26 is on, if so check W4, if on check #27, etc.

I hope this helps you,

Let me know if you need more help. To order a board, please call 732-364-9900 ext. 1 , by your game's serial number they can see what boards are in your game and get you the correct replacement.

Thank you,
LTG : )

#5741 5 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

To “bypass” a board do I just go into the menu and start turning them off?

No. Only turn off a board that you have bypassed with the data harness.

LTG : )

#5763 5 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

how do I tap into a gi circuit?

Don't.

12 volt spot lights.

LTG : )

#5766 5 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

so any leds added need to be 12v essentially?

12 volt LED, wire it to a nearby spotlight.

LTG : )

#5772 5 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Though I think it's an amazing product I have always been concerned that it may detract from the intended presentation of the games, as they have are pretty dramatic effect.

It will compliment the game, not take away from it. And make game play easier if your game is in a dark setting.

LTG : )

#5804 5 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

Anyone install the 2.0 conversion kit yet?

I have. To learn for tech support.

Now bear in mind, I didn't get a kit, more a box of parts. And some delays getting things that were missing. Your kit shouldn't have that issue.

PM me your email address and I'll email you the instructions.

Basically time consuming, nothing hard. Remove old LED boards, remove data harnesses and power cables. I cut some off flush with harnesses instead of cutting every cable tie and redoing them. Remove power supply.

Put in new big boards, even swap. Small boards you need to drill a pilot hole and use new screws. Instructions say two per board, one is enough. Mount B.A.G. Board and HUB board. Run cables and ethernet cables. Add new power supply then run power cables.

You do need to remove castle and spinning house playfields for this.

Take your time, do a good job. Figure about ten hours.

LTG : )

#5805 5 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

I didn't know a conversion kit was out, can you post a link.

Call factory to order. Try and get Shannon of Frank Becker.

LTG : )

#5815 5 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

I need a little help here

Quoted from adol75:

My pinball is slightly tilted down because I wanted to get a bit more speed

LTG : )

#5824 5 years ago
Quoted from Beez:

I found the switch underneath and it was extremely loose. I screwed it back in but still doesn’t recognize when it’s down.

Make sure it is on right and working. Look at it. A tab on the drop target pushes the switch closed going down and releases it open going up.

Your switch could be mounted wrong, or need adjusting.

LTG : )

IMG_0436 (resized).JPGIMG_0436 (resized).JPGIMG_0437 (resized).JPGIMG_0437 (resized).JPG
#5828 5 years ago
Quoted from Beez:

I tightened it back as you described with the tab however it still isn’t working ..

Did you tighten it too tight ?

Check the switch with a meter and see if it works when pressed.

LTG : )

#5830 5 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

And any chance I won't need to remove the playfield to fix ?

No. Looks like it wants a new plunger assembly, coil sleeve, and coil stop.

LTG : )

#5832 5 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

But it's brand new, and I swear I didn't torture it more than hitting balls with it

Then the return spring may have broke. Or plunger assembly is binding. Or coil stop is loose. Or flipper bat needs a little up and down play so it isn't binding on the pawl below the playfield.

LTG : )

#5835 5 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

so if I can diagnose without removing it then I can wait for the spare part(s) to arrive and do the job in a day.

I don't think you'll really need parts. If you would. Exchange the parts with the flippers near the front of the game. Then if you need to order anything new, installation wouldn't involve removing the castle playfield again.

LTG : )

#5837 5 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Thanks for any tips!

Mylar.

LTG : )

1 week later
#5869 5 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

Finally picked up a NIB DI today. Got it home and one of the legs is too long Also trying to figure out why the heck the coin door thinks its open when it's closed...fun

Measure the legs, three of the short ones might have gotten into your box.

Door open, please check if the two wires/connectors are on the lower big white switch by the left hand of the door opening. Then be sure the flap on the door fully closes it. Check the area for anything unplugged that should be plugged in.

LTG : )

#5884 5 years ago
Quoted from thewool:

what is the big hour glass for?

In the movie the wicked with turns the hour glass over and Dorthy has one hour to give up her red shoes.

LTG : )

#5893 5 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

widest part is the head?

28 3/4 inches.

LTG : )

#5898 5 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

but to justify it to the wife by saying, "it's so I can fit pinball machines through it!" would be suicide!

Just tell your wife your concerned as she gets older she may need a wider door.

Then you'll know what suicidal is.

LTG : )

1 week later
#5939 5 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

It looks like the arm of the micro switch that detects when the target is down is on top of the metal tab on the target instead of under it. So it will never be closed. Put it on the other side of the metal tab and see if that fixes it.

The switch arm is okay.

The switch might just need adjusting. Raise target. Go into Tests - Switches - Matrixed, push the arm of the switch down to close it, see if it registers on the screen. If it works, then check adjustment. The black tab on the drop target pushes the switch arm when going down closing the switch and releases it open when going up.

You can loosen the screws holding the switch and turn the switch body to easily adjust the switch to make it work better.

LTG : )

IMG_0436 (resized).JPGIMG_0436 (resized).JPG
#5941 5 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Sorry for the confusion.

No problem. We're just trying to get the guy going.

LTG : )

#5947 5 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

did not work for the coil test that brings the target back up.

Check the solder joints at that coils lugs. Might have a cold solder joint or broken wire. Carefully dig around the thin wires from the coil to the coil lugs for breaks or cracks.

LTG : )

#5950 5 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

There is nothing that pushes on the lever to activate the switch at this time when the winkie target drops

Orange circle around the arm/lever on the switch. Yellow circle around the tab on the drop target that closes the switch going down and releases it going up.

LTG : )

3e6a162122901dbc3718408f65054539702b3ff7 (resized).jpg3e6a162122901dbc3718408f65054539702b3ff7 (resized).jpg
#5951 5 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

the horizontal metal piece does not fall enough backward to push on the small green button to light up the switch.

Adjust it so it does.

Quoted from monte_:

The underside of my target assembly looks different than the one shown by Lloyd. I do not have a cylindrical metal piece that pushes on the thin metal piece to activate the switch like shown by Lloyd

It's the same part as the one I pictured. Here is both sides. Same in every WOZ.

LTG : )

IMG_0436 (resized).JPGIMG_0436 (resized).JPGIMG_0437 (resized).JPGIMG_0437 (resized).JPG
#5953 5 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

It's a good thing you didn't put two yellow circles down there LTG!!

Some days I amaze myself.

I hope it helps the person sort this out.

LTG : )

#5956 5 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

When the winkie target is down there is no pressure on the silver arm.

Adjust the switch. Loosen the two screws that hold it on a little, turn switch body so the arm gets more pressure, then tighten the two screws back up.

LTG : )

#5957 5 years ago

See the red arrows - loosen those two screws a little. See the yellow arrow - push the switch body down a little that direction, the grooved slot was made just for that. Tighten the screws.

LTG : )

c9fbde1d2010033d185b9f6ec8f6cd15a51be589 (resized).jpgc9fbde1d2010033d185b9f6ec8f6cd15a51be589 (resized).jpg
#5959 5 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

Do i need to do anything to make the black piece that pushes on the arm to move better when winkie target drops if that is what is sticking?

Does the drop target move up and down ? Push it up it locks, knock it and it drops ?

If so don't worry about that black piece, it's part of the drop target.

The plunger in the coil that pushes it up, does it move up and down freely ?

LTG : )

#5960 5 years ago

Blue arrow points to the lock nut on the end of the plunger. Your plunger pushes the drop target up and then drops back down. Does it move freely ?

LTG : )

e9b10cd609a2499ddb318b9ce1db5209896c2ac4 (resized).jpge9b10cd609a2499ddb318b9ce1db5209896c2ac4 (resized).jpg
#5962 5 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

It is as simple as bending them with my fingers as to straighten them or should I do something else?

Please do something else.

See where the arrow is pointing ? The arm of that switch is rubbing on the side of the wood slot the arm goes up and down in. Under the playfield is a metal bracket with two screws holding the whole switch. Loosen the screws a little and turn the bracket so the arm is centered in that slot in the playfield. Retighten them.

LTG : )

38cfe821e0035d490f905e97233af9c061e73977 (resized).jpg38cfe821e0035d490f905e97233af9c061e73977 (resized).jpg
#5963 5 years ago

You can bend them. But from the top isn't going to work. Then you'd be better off and remove the bracket they are on and lower them and then bend as needed and reinstall. Careful so you don't effect the flat part that pushes the tiny knob into the switch body.

That wireform part of the switch sticking up should be nice and straight up and down, not leaning to either side. And centered in the slot they go through the playfield in.

LTG : )

#5974 5 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Is there a spot On The website to open a ticket?

jerseyjackpinball.com under Support.

LTG : )

#5975 5 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Is there a spot On The website to open a ticket?

http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Support-Form/

LTG : )

#5981 5 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

I would surely be interested in getting a list of must have tools from the Woz veterans

I've found what works in Bally/Williams ( and many other pins ) works in WOZ.

My basics are nut drivers, 5/32nds allen wrench. Pliers, wire cutter, small vice grip. Soldering iron.

You basically have a Williams DMD era pin there, they just snuck a motherboard and hard drive in it.

LTG : )

#5991 5 years ago

Spot lights, throne room light, coin chute lights, are 12 volt and nothing to do with playfield LEDs.

Playfield LEDs may have been a glitch.

LTG : )

#5994 5 years ago
Quoted from Ockeyhead:

1. The monkey magnet switch is registering as being a closed switch. There appears to be no issues w/ the magnet at this time ~ so should I be concerned w/ this?

If the monkey grabbing the ball works, I wouldn't worry about this.

Quoted from Ockeyhead:

2. In attraction mode, the house spins constantly. Then there is game played, then it doesn't spin at all. Is this normal & how do I activate the house to not spin at all in the attract mode? I don't want to wear out the motor.

That isn't right. I'd unplug the house motor and go to jerseyjackpinball.com and under Support open a ticket on the help desk. Something that controls the house isn't working. The engineer might need to look into it.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#6067 5 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

I blew a fuse F710

I'd check that the castle doors work in test, the motor lugs aren't shorting to the metal lane guides below them.

Not as likely the VUK behind the doors or the drop target retract.

LTG : )

#6070 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I suspect the winkie target coil first.

Not the up coil, different fuse. Retract coil is on the fuse he's blowing.

LTG : )

#6072 5 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

knows that the coil overheated

Except that coil isn't on the fuse you are blowing.

Check the fuse flow chart in your manual and that coil is on fuse F706 70 volt coils and you are blowing fuse F710 20 volt coils ( drop target retract and others )

So I suspect something protected on F710 fuse, not something protected on a different fuse line that isn't blowing.

LTG : )

#6088 5 years ago

Looks like the cabinet twisted.

LTG : )

#6112 5 years ago
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

Now my ball launch coil won’t shoot the ball into the shooter lane. Just bangs the bottom of the ball repededly but ball doesn’t launch.

Plunger broke ? Coil sleeve broke ? Something obstructing the ball going up ?

LTG : )

#6114 5 years ago

Repair might not last. No idea if you can get just the black plastic piece or if you need to buy the whole plunger.

I'd put some five minute epoxy on the black plastic, a piece of scotch tape across the hole, pound it in. Leave the glue dry. Hope it lasts ahwile.

LTG : )

#6136 5 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

Has anyone adjusted the switch to make it less sensitive and if so what is the best way of doing it? Any help would be appreciated.

From the WOZ Forum

Loosen the nuts circled in RED allowing you to move the switches closer to the plate. Reach around the lifted playfield and tap the strike plate while moving the swiches closer. When you have the sensitivity you want, just tighten the nuts back down.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/89824152@N07/sets/72157634995600921/

LTG : )

#6142 5 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

let me know if there are any tricks to replacing this piece.

LTG : )

#6146 5 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

Has anyone considered replacing the rather loud fans with other alternatives ?

Happens on many games from many manufacturers. Easy to search Pinside for ideas.

LTG : )

1 week later
#6155 5 years ago
Quoted from Ricmaz:

Now I have to figure out how to trouble shoot that.

Take the plastic cover off first and see if it's binding on that.

LTG : )

#6159 5 years ago
Quoted from Ricmaz:

Why won’t she move?????

No power to motor. Bad motor. I'd start there.

LTG : )

#6163 5 years ago
Quoted from pduffy:

The right door seems to get stuck.

Listen to it, if the motor is whirring and door not moving, the two set screws holding the motor to the door shaft are loose.

LTG : )

#6165 5 years ago
Quoted from Yoxxy:

I would assume this isn’t the boards individually

Wrong.

Please check out page C-54 in the manual ( you can download it at jerseyjackpinball.com ) that page shows the data harness path. From W6 to #29, to #1, to #2, to #3, etc. etc.

Please go into Tests - LEDs - All LEDs, this turns any working all white. Lift playfield and lean on backbox. You can see the working ones kind of glow.

They are wired in series, a straight line. Find the last working one, the one after it that is out is the bad one. With the power on, you can by pass the data harnesses on the LED boards, bypass the bad one, and turn off in settings. ( be sure and turn it back on when you replace it ) this will help you identify a bad one.

As an example, say #15 was out. You can run the data harness from red on W2, to green on #16 instead of #15. If the rest light up, you know #15 is the bad one.

With the power on you can move data harnesses. They go red to green from board to board. Don't mess with the power connectors with the power on.

LTG : )

1 week later
#6186 5 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Please help diagnose:

Have you tried hitting the reset switch in the big metal box with the boards with the power on ?, if your game has one. If not with the power on briefly short pins 6 and 8 on JFP1 on the motherboard.

LTG : )

photo 2 (resized).JPGphoto 2 (resized).JPG
#6196 5 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Please explain, or please point me to where I can read more: what was wrong, & what exactly is being reset when I push this reset switch?

merccat gave a good write up. Can on rare occasion just happen. Or if you turn the game on, and turn off before it's fully powered up can do the problem to.

Quoted from jasonbar:

thanks for writing your reply with small, simple words so that I could understand it easily. :]

My pleasure. I'm old school, one button, PHD, push here dummy.

LTG : )

#6201 5 years ago
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

How would I turn the switch until it clicks properly?

Loosen the screws holding it a little, turn switch body. See the long slot in your second picutre ? Up/doen there. Retighten screws, but not so tight the switch binds up tight.

LTG : )

#6212 5 years ago

If motor is working not much there. Coupling holding motor to shaft or clean off old and put on new lube.

LTG : )

#6215 5 years ago

Follow the data harnesses - #29, to #1, to #2, etc. etc.

LTG : )

#6224 5 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

does this mean one of this machines boards is going

Looks different.

If one were bad, the rest after it would be out.

W1 the big fish board - yellow brick road - has some, this goes over to the T O T O lights and up the right side to the RAINBOW lights. So I'd check connectors for power and data harness from before W1 and up thru the ones that are out. Refer to page C-54 in the manual to see the data harness path.

Look for loose connectors or loose wire in connector.

LTG : )

#6227 5 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Some lights that were dim ir seemingly out before are now red or other lights looking out.

One B A L L light is out. I'd start at LED Board #15, and by pass LED boards one at a time and see if one isn't passing data through right.

LTG : )

#6230 5 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Please look at the pictures above the most recent.

You are at the game, easier to look underneath. This is how to search for a failed board.

Please check out page C-54 in the manual ( you can download it at jerseyjackpinball.com ) that page shows the data harness path. From W6 to #29, to #1, to #2, to #3, etc. etc.

Please go into Tests - LEDs - All LEDs, this turns any working all white. Lift playfield and lean on backbox. You can see the working ones kind of glow.

They are wired in series, a straight line. Find the last working one, the one after it that is out is the bad one. With the power on, you can by pass the data harnesses on the LED boards, bypass the bad one, and turn off in settings. ( be sure and turn it back on when you replace it ) this will help you identify a bad one.

As an example, say #15 was out. You can run the data harness from red on W2, to green on #16 instead of #15. If the rest light up, you know #15 is the bad one.

With the power on you can move data harnesses. They go red to green from board to board. Don't mess with the power connectors with the power on.

LTG : )

#6233 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

but replaces all of the big boards

Replaces almost all the little ones too.

LTG : )

#6236 5 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

How much is the entire thing?

$800 right now.

Quoted from Utesichiban:

Why didn't JJP send these fixes out to customers stuck with troubled earky run games to begin with?

Because many games will never need it.

LTG : )

#6238 5 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

What about those that do?

Buy the kit. Install it. And be done with it.

LTG : )

#6244 5 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Please accept my apologies everyone.

Don't worry, this can be frustrating as you learn.

Quoted from Utesichiban:

It appears #11 is the last red board. #12 is definitely out. #13 & #14 appear to be dimmer but do have some white (not red) light. So does it sound like #12 may be the issue? Could replacing that one possibly fix all the downstream problems as well?

You could bypass #12 and see. Run the red connector on #10 over to the Green on #13 and see if things works except #12 and castle playfield lights.

Or maybe take the long data harness from W1 yellow brick road board that goes to #20 ( LED boards past #20 up the right side won't work ) and use this long data harness and go from W6 to #9, Then #1, Then #2, etc. etc. to isolate bad and good boards.

LTG : )

#6258 5 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Does anyone know if this price is still being offered somewhere?

Maybe that was Chris at KingPin Games - https://www.kingpingames.net/ he posts here as kingpingames.

Great guy, contact him.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#6310 5 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

I have a new problem with my woz. The pinballs are not flowing freely in the ball trough. When one is ejected, the next ball is not moving and the machine gets confused because it doesnt think there is a pinball there. I replaced the balls but still having problem. I also tried getting in the trough with rag and wiping down. Thanks for the help.

Not much to go wrong. Magnetized balls. Or divots on the bottom "V" of the ball trough. Divots you can remove the trough, disassemble, file flat, clean, reassemble.

Or - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-16809 stick one of these in the end and be done with either problem.

LTG : )

#6314 5 years ago
Quoted from avspin:

Before I dive in does anyone have any suggestions?

Take the plastic cover off and see if it works then. Then figure out what is binding it. ( something bent a little )

LTG : )

#6322 5 years ago
Quoted from avspin:

BUT is that ok to do, or did I screw up the motor?

Should be fine.

LTG : )

#6326 5 years ago
Quoted from avspin:

My game sat for a year and a half in new in box before I received it, could that be the cause for the screw drives grinding?

Yes, old grease could have been gumming up.

LTG : )

#6333 5 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Think I should just try to re-glue it or something?

Re-glue it.

Rare, but it happens.

LTG : )

#6347 5 years ago
Quoted from Docb8456:

1. how do i know if I have the 2.0 lighting (7.5 boards) in my game? I assume if i have had issues in the past, then i dont have it?

2.0 has ethernet cables all over the underside of the playfield. Or check the current manual ( download from jerseyjackpinball.com ) and compare the line drawings of the old LED system or the 2.0 system.

Quoted from Docb8456:

the mechanism that pops up the ball to go to the left upper playfield started firing non stop,

Go over the optos in there. Dirty, broken wires, need replacing ?

LTG : )

#6354 5 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Sounds weird, so I wanted to confirm w/ the experts here before I plug it in & power it up.

It will work fine.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#6396 5 years ago
Quoted from 1quartershort:

Anyone know the voltage for the throne room led strip?

12 volts

LTG : )

1 week later
#6410 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Jumper the reset pins on the mainboard if there's no switch.

Just like a PC.

Pins 6 and 8 on JFP1.

LTG : )

jumpstart (resized).jpgjumpstart (resized).jpgphoto 2 (resized).JPGphoto 2 (resized).JPG
#6413 5 years ago
Quoted from Wanderers:

what the problem could be and a solution.

This should help you :

Please check out page C-54 in the manual ( you can download it at jerseyjackpinball.com ) that page shows the data harness path. From W6 to #29, to #1, to #2, to #3, etc. etc.

Please go into Tests - LEDs - All LEDs, this turns any working all white. Lift playfield and lean on backbox. You can see the working ones kind of glow.

They are wired in series, a straight line. Find the last working one, the one after it that is out is the bad one. With the power on, you can by pass the data harnesses on the LED boards, bypass the bad one, and turn off in settings. ( be sure and turn it back on when you replace it ) this will help you identify a bad one.

As an example, say #15 was out. You can run the data harness from red on W2, to green on #16 instead of #15. If the rest light up, you know #15 is the bad one.

With the power on you can move data harnesses. They go red to green from board to board. Don't mess with the power connectors with the power on.

LTG : )

#6417 5 years ago
Quoted from Ockeyhead:

any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Check the switch at the bottom of the drop target assembly. Could be loose or fell off. The tab on the drop target closes it going down and releases it going up.

LTG : )

#6418 5 years ago
Quoted from Ockeyhead:

any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Here are pictures so you can compare to yours.

LTG : )

IMG_0436 (resized).JPGIMG_0436 (resized).JPGIMG_0437 (resized).JPGIMG_0437 (resized).JPG
#6432 5 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

My Crystal Ball no longer displays anything.

Reseat SD card behind it. Reseat cable there and at motherboard. For a start.

LTG : )

1 week later
#6451 5 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

The behavior almost looks like
The playfield magnet is too strong or is not releasing the ball at the right time.

The magnet under the playfield is like a big fat donut held on by a metal bracket and three screws. Remove the screws and bracket, flip the magnet over. Reattach.

See if that helps.
Lloyd

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