Lincoln, NE
The wait is killing me. I have a RR coming nib Tuesday.
(Topic ID: 87617)
Linked Games
Wizard of Oz
Jersey Jack, 2013-
Wizard of Oz (Yellow Brick Road LE)
Jersey Jack, 2019
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My RR arrives tomorrow. Get pics of that new green one paynemic. I love the green as well. Had to flip a coin to decide color practically. Can't wait for tomorrow!
I noticed two things today on my new woz. Shaker motor seems to be a little noisy, kind of a scratching noise. Possibly hitting cover? I removed cover and tightened screws, so what could it be? Second, I here and feel a loud thud in the middle of some games. Does knocker fire during gameplay based on achievements?
I would definitely contact them about legs. Get pics of the new green machine. My family has all said woz is our family favorite, and that is saying a bunch beings I have acdc and metallica in the collection. Love it. I'm not uploading 5.05 though with the bugs I've read about. I'm waiting for 6.0
From my recent search, it looks like dealers are all pretty consistent on price. I only found one dealer offer a RR at 9k shopped (automated services). Most were 9.25-9.5k and didn't figure in shipping. With stern, my metallica search rendered a much bigger fluctuation in price when calling around.
4 years later
Quoted from harryhoudini:Congrats!
I'm not impartial, but I have everything we sell on our game.
https://pinballmods.co/wizard-of-oz-pinball-mods
Side art blades, personally I think it's a must have. Out of all the blades for all the games I think these are some of the best.
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/official-jjp-wizard-of-oz-pinblades
I would suggest the backalley items, but YBR already has them all.
I was just looking at these art blades and was going to see if anybody has pics of these installed on a RR, and also do we need a protector over these blades?
Quoted from MartianMan:Hello all,
Proud owner of a JJP RRWOZLE here, and after having this trouble free machine in my collection for over a year now, I'm having my first LED board issue.
In reading through the procedure to bypass the bad board (Board 7) I don't think the cable coming from board 6 is long enough to reach board 8 to bypass.
Let me know if I'm missing something... I'm working with JJP to get a replacement board and a 16" cable to bypass the board.
I believe these are 7.5V light boards V1.4, and DOM is 8/15.
Try reseating all connectors. I had some flickering too, but after reseating connectors on several boards and just pushing everything tight on all boards, problems all gone.
All woz models are stunning, but imo the rr is the best overall package, followed closely by the ecle. The ybr is pretty, but the Monkey and castle door release is a moment that I would miss on the ybr. Plus, the price on the ybr for less features is pushing it. The sparkles are great, but not $2000 great compared to the RR. Just my opinion. All are awesome in the end.
I’m looking for the witch smoke mod if anybody wants to sell, or if anybody is upgrading to the 2.0 model. Pm me. Thanks
I’m still looking for a witch mod if anybody isn’t going to use theirs. Pm me if you’re selling one. Thanks guys
I got my pin blades from pingraffix.
Question. Do you guys wet the backside of them first(if so with what) or just install as is? Also, do you pull entire play field out or just stand upright to install blades?
Got them on with no problems. Pretty easy with a helper to hold play field directly upward. They really add to the look. Sorry about pics with glass on. Game needs more GI. Anybody add spot lights and where?
2010502B-1C32-4AF6-AF87-3FB2FB6E5685 (resized).jpeg72BC47B7-0FE1-46CB-838F-4A8E5659EDBC (resized).jpegQuoted from paulbaptiste:Looks great! I have a set to put on today. Did the Hobbit yesterday and turned out well now to put them on WOZ. Can't imagine trying this without using the wet method.
Just did mine last week not using wet method. Very easy, quick, and perfectly on. Had my wife hold play field straight up and you can easily have access to line it up and work decal on from back to front.
Quoted from cleanandlevel:yeah my woz and Wonka are so dark, I just got them and am trying to figure out how to tastefully add some light. pinstadiums seem a bit much...
I agree, I’m looking for ideas to add a couple spot lights. Pinstadium is ridiculously too expensive. I can’t see the left side art blades, so I really just need to light up the middle and left side of play field.
My hobbit is well lit from factory with spotlights
1 year later
Quoted from harryhoudini:Guess this is topical..
Looks cool. Would like to see it in color and get more details about it
Quoted from DiabloRush:Joined the club this week. Arranged a trade for a basically NIB ECLE WOZ. ~20 plays on the machine, indistinguishable from new. Absolutely pristine.
This is a lovely game, I’m very impressed. Only issue is - like other early/mid ECLE (mine is number 550 or so), it has unbuffered 7.5 light boards. Sure enough, the lights are freezing up on play. I can get maybe 5-10 minutes before most of the lights freeze. A reboot restores things, and they work fine in attract mode. Once I start play, they pretty consistently freeze up.
I opened a ticket with JJP. Short of installing 2.0 boards (which JJP says will be available 1Q 2023), is there anything else that can be done to limp along? Lower LED brightness? Disable shaker? Reflow solder on any of the boards? I’m open to suggestions.
Given this game was just unboxed and never registered prior to my purchase, I did register the game with JJP. I have no idea if the warranty is active.
Thanks, and please excuse all the questions from a new owner.
Go through ALL the connectors and make sure they’re tight. Good chance you worked one loose in transport.
Quoted from DiabloRush:Thanks for the suggestions. Did a thorough unplug/replug of all the cabinet connections, firmly squeezed each from both sides, then went through the entire lighting chain and pressed each connector firmly. I also disabled the shaker.
So far, no issues. Was able to get through a couple of games without any lights freezing. Fingers crossed. Ultimately, installation of 2.0 lighting is probably the long-term solution, but for now, I can enjoy this excellent title. Really is a knock-out. My third JJP, as well. Looks great next to Hobbit. Love those widebodies.
Agreed. My hobbit and Woz are never going anywhere. Also, the 7.5 v boards are pretty solid. If anything just pick up a spare set from someone that did the 2.0 conversion just as a backup plan for $250 or so, but most have been fine.
1 week later
I just melted the witch for the first time in a couple years!!! Wow, that mode just never gets old. Probably my favorite pinball moment along with killing Smaug in the hobbit. These modes always remind me of why I love jjp games.
1 week later
Not one problem with mine since new 7-8 years ago. I bought a second 7.5 set from somebody they did conversion for $250 just to have extras though. Most 7.5 sets have been good though
Quoted from ReadyPO:I have a Red Smoke Witch 2.0 still in box - for the WOZ I was planning on getting but it doesn't look like it will be anytime soon. Would rather someone put it to good use. Will be listing it in Marketplace later this weekend...
Pm sent
1 week later
Anybody have either the back alley 3d
non-lit emerald city mod, or the other companies light up emerald city 3d mod that sticks on back wall? Curious if either looks better in person be the other.
Went to turn n Woz tonight before company came over, and it is absolutely dead. I checked power cord, and outlet, and power cord in cab. Fuze in service panel looks good. Is there a reset switch I’ve read about in the RR that could start it up, and what causes this if that happens to be the case?
Quoted from julien_06480:By absolutely dead you mean no light, no lcd screen, no sound, nothing at all? In that case, motherboard jump start is useless.
This is probably your power supply board that need to be replaced.
Check pages D-150 and D-151 of manual.
First thing to check, is J10-1 and J10-2, when powered on, you need to check with multimeter (DC) if you have +30VDC
If yes, then check for example between J4-1 and J4-4 if you get +7.5VDC.
Maybe it's the well known inductor issue:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/yikes-woz-fried-lots-of-smoke-where-do-i-start
Thanks for the info. I’ll look into it. I flip the switch on and nothing happens and I don’t hear anything humming or trying to power on at all.
So my service box outlet does work. I checked for voltage at j10 and nothing. Is there something I should check on this power converter in the back of the machine and if so which color wires? I don’t hear any humming or anything. I tried jumping it just to see and nothing. Also I metered fuses and all good
3EF13DCB-D968-41FD-BBA6-718192D3ECD5 (resized).jpeg5FAAEF69-9774-4B9F-8B9E-FA87774A829C (resized).jpeg873BA3A6-C54E-4BF8-99BB-0BD5EF1C847B (resized).jpeg933791FD-6228-4392-A4AD-FF93B8315AF1 (resized).jpegA9595241-46F6-4455-8D6E-AC501C36BE92 (resized).jpegI fixed it!!!!! I was over thinking it, and eventually thought about the on/off switch. The wires were all wiggled loose on the switch and that’s all it was. So happy it wasn’t any real issue other than me not thinking clearly. Thanks again for the earlier input.
1 week later
Is the safety switch inside coin door working or adjusting properly? Try opening coin door and pulling safety switch out to activate power and see if it starts a game
1 week later
I added the flame pots around wizard today, and afterwards the wizard doesn’t seem lit as green as before. I checked light strip is under acrylic as much as possible, but still not lit as bright. Can someone confirm that the etched face should be on backside of acrylic or is it towards the front? Also, are green lights supposed to be completely under acrylic or slightly behind it?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Etched side is on the back
The little LED strip fits where it fits. Hopefully covered my the acrylic....
Yeah, that’s how I have it back together. Was wondering if the new fire pots wash out the green
Quoted from woodmedic:I just had to replace mine as well.
I submitted a ticket. I couldn’t find them on the store anywhere
Huge difference with the new wizard green led strip! Just wanted to say Ken at jjp support responded to my ticket really fast and got my new part out next day. Thanks, and great job jjp.
Also, added the Glenda figure as well today. Really liking the monkey and Glenda figures here.
1D7CE64C-BDB9-48D0-BFC9-D794A88645CD (resized).jpegAF29BFBF-F86E-471F-9329-017FB90CFF11 (resized).jpegQuoted from julien_06480:Where did you find the figures?
eBay hallmark ornaments
Quoted from Bohm:Looks like mine is out too, so do I just need to call Jersey Jack?
I couldn't find a replacement part but I think it would be as easy as splicing this in as a replacement:
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips?_pos=1&_sid=d9713673e&_ss=r&variant=32219275690086
They sent me a bill for $10 shipped. I had to contact them since it’s not on the store. It is literally just green led strip so yeah, you could easily just make your own
1 week later
Quoted from Bohm:Catching up on all the LED board issues, how concerned should I be that when I raise the playfield, most of the playfield is flickering or just out when I set it back in place? When I raise it back up to check underneath it always becomes fully functional. If I set it back down carefully it will operate normally with no issues, but the fact that it does this leads me to believe a problem is on the horizon. I checked for loose connections but everything seems tight. I have the 7.5 V1.1 boards
Loose connection. Keep checking
2 months later
Looking to just get an idea on how much to possibly sell my RR Woz for? Has 7.5v boards, never had a problem, and a full spare set with it. Lighted Emerald city mod(with a 2nd spare), flying monkey figure, Glinda witch figure, fire pots mod, art blades, cliffys, and all upgrades the RR came with. Game looks perfect and plays perfect with about 1180 plays. Just curious what you guys would start the price at? Thanks
133FAD37-CC17-4A94-B0CC-5698E1BFD6EE (resized).jpeg3B662541-EFD4-4D03-8BE5-7EBB98A6CA00 (resized).jpeg501E0D29-AE33-45CA-AF9B-87D0EC2FD32F (resized).jpeg5B8F669B-800F-4F59-9B3C-2554B37F65B4 (resized).jpeg
1 month later
Quoted from Moli410:Hey fellas, im in the market for a WOZ. Just a quick question to all you owners, for as much of the research I've been doing. What is the probability of the 7.5 light boards failing on theses machines, and are these light boards available should one fail?
Ive seen people convert to 2.0 light boards and I can't imagine the process it would be convert the machine to 2.0
Just looking for some insight before I make the final plunge in the next day or so.
Zero issues on my 7.5 since the RR was originally released. I did buy a spare set of 7.5 for peace of mind for only $300, so not worried really. Most 7.5 games are stable, and jjp techs confirmed that with me. The real problem was the 5-5.5v games prior to RR
8 months later
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