Go to post #47 in the above link for the newest version of the rulesheet.
Quoted from TaylorVA:
They don't like to play on the same game with me as I apparently take too long.
I get the same attitude ... so I got another pin for the player that just completes a ball on WOZ. That works out well. Might get the Dongle for Pindemption to make it timed play when we have guests over. They would get to see/play more modes that way too. I've read that a few people have done that and like it. It's on my mods wish list.
Quoted from system11:
However the number of airballs I was getting from bad ramp shots was pretty high
Posted somewhere here on Pinside people said to unscrew the bottom of the ramp to solve the air balls. I did that just on one side of the ramp, it seemed to allow the bottom ramp metal piece to set just slightly more flat, and now I rarely get any air balls at the ramp. Try that for a few games and see if it helps your game.
Hey mod guys ... if I wanted to add some various LED mods to a WOZ (like leg light up LEDs, shooter rod LEDs, and flipper button LEDs) what connection could I use and split off of without jeopardizing overloading boards? I've read there is a connector on the back of the coin door and see one that is not connected to anything, but is not the same molex 3 or 4 pin connector that is on the Sterns. If that is the correct connector to use, where do you buy the correctly wired adapter from to use for the other molex 3 or 4 pin mods? Also, is the Hobbit the same way? (I did not get my Hobbit yet.)
Quoted from KingBW:
what connection could I use and split off of without jeopardizing overloading boards?
Hmmm In a Hobbit thread I see that some people get separate power supplies for their mods. Sounds like a good idea. Any thoughts? One power supply mentioned was this ebay item number ... 121795917592 both 12v and 5v. I'm thinking about doing this with all my pins to power my pinballlife 8 way splitter boards.
Quoted from BladeFury:
Yep use a power supply! Did on both WOZECLE and TH SE....leave the factory wires alone and let them do what they were supposed to do
Ok, I'll try to go that route. How do you wire it so that it is switched with the pin power switch and the mods do not stay on all the time? Is there instructions for that? Relays? Go into the power supply and hot wire it? Does JJP have a switched plug somewhere?
Quoted from Nokoro:
When you have a non-pinhead over to play some games, how do you describe what to do in WOZ? I love the rules, but they are so complex that I have a hard time describing even short term goals to a newbie. I'm left with wait until you see lock lit and then hit the ball up the ramp; do that three times to start multiball.
Listen to the call-outs and shoot for what the call-outs are saying. If you hear the witch - shoot the witch. When the Lock Ball or tornado light is lit shoot that ramp. Try to get to the castle and hit all the targets and knock down the door with 3 hits up there. When crystal ball light is lit, try to go there if the opportunity presents itself.
Quoted from Jakers:
Thanks LTG. I'll adjust that next time I have the playfield up.
While I was working on WOZ today I decided to fix my munchkin cliffy. Ever since installed, about 50% of the time the ball would hit the edge of the cliffy on its way up the shooter lane and not even make it to the lanes. I took a dremel and shaped the edge. The ball never hits the edge anymore and I can reliable plunge for those skill shots. Just thought I would share.
Wow, that's a good catch and fix. I have that cliffy on it's way to me ... I'll have to perform surgery before the mod begins. Thanks for sharing!
Quoted from Nokoro:
Totally agree. WOZ is a difficult game to get a feel for on location. It definitely is something to be appreciated in a home setting. I'm wondering if Hobbit is the same way. I only played it a couple of times on location, but I could tell that there was so much complexity to it that I would probably need 50+ games to really start to understand it.
That's what makes them (WOZ & TH) so great for home use. Keith keeps the code updates and enhancements coming too. WOZ is likely close to the end for code updates. Waiting for my Hobbit - a couple more months.
Quoted from Chosen_S:
Has anyone made a nice shot map of WoZ?... I'm looking for a nice print, or Image That I can Print and frame for the wall next to my WoZ.
You may want to look at the WOZ Rulesheet for ideas.
Letter 8.5x11 looks like it will fit better than Legal size. Not sure what poster sizes are.
Chosen_S could get some printed like Radcals and sell them at the Chicago Expo. I could bring some back with me to MI for locals. Sounds like a plan. Where you going to be at the Expo Chosen_S?
If you loosen all the screws in the plastic piece and slip the plastic a little toward the gap, it isn't that noticeable. I would not carve out a notch in the metal. Just move the metal over to the next pre-drilled hole. First photo of mine is looking at it from the side where you would notice the gap the most. The other two photos are from the players perspective - with and without a light under the plastic beaming away.
Quoted from DCFAN:
The Mezel firepots mod is one of my favorites.
I bought some mods for my WOZ and that was one of them. But ... in attempting to remove the nuts and bolts at the base of the throne room plastic wizard head, I found that the bolts/nuts were torqued to tight and stripped out. I can't get them off. I've been procrastinating trying to cut them off. I would need replacement nuts/bolts plus whatever else I damage in the process. ARGH! Six months later ...
Quoted from Nokoro:
I just ordered the pindemption dongle. I had a few questions, so I called JJP and they put me in touch with Jack to my surprise. It was really nice of him to take time and answer my questions. Anyway, I want a way that I can play with guests where we can take turns and they don't have to wait 20 minutes for me to finish a ball if I'm having a good game. I think beginners will also appreciate a simplified rule set with defined goals, unlimited balls and a timer. It may even get my kids back into playing. Anyway, I'll report back when I get it and try it out.
I can relate. That's why I will eventually get a dongle for pindemption ... for both my WOZ, and future TH.
You guys do know that there is also a volume control on the outside of the coin door for the headphones, right? Did you turn that all the way up too? By default it is set to a low volume. Just checking for the obvious oversight.
Quoted from Jakers:
While we're on the subject of the winged monkey....my monkey operates correctly and picks up the ball from the playfield about 75% of the time. When he does pick the ball up, it's accompanied by a satisfying "snap" of the ball hitting the magnet under the monkey. When he fails to pick it up, the ball shifts a little bit on the play field magnet but when he leaves, the ball doesn't stick to his magnet at all and just goes into the OZ lanes. It's like the monkeys magnet doesn't energize.
Does anyone else have this problem and know of a solution?
I had the same problem (new pinballs by the way too). The limit switch at the bottom travel of the monkey was a little loose. I snugged that up and the monkey only misses picking up the ball maybe 1 out of 25 times now. Check and try that. Not sure why that improved the pickup, but might be a travel/magnet timing thing.
Quoted from bhwolf:
Anyone using art blades or side mirrors? I'm not a huge fan of the Gameblades available. I think green or red mirrors would work well, but I think they'd scratch easily as the playfield is really tight compared to my other machines. If you have anything installed, post some pics!
I have the mirror blades and don't care for them too much anymore. You see reflections of the mechanisms behind the hut and other areas. I'm waiting to see what kind of interactive blades that PinGraffix comes up with for WOZ and will likely replace them with those. What they did with the "Creepy Death" blades for MET is awesome. Intrigued as to what they would do with WOZ.
Quoted from GotAQuestion:
My WoZRR comes tomorrow and I was wondering if there are any default settings tweaks people recommend, or if it's all down to personal preference?
The tree pops are typically pretty high. Personal preference ... but if the trees "seem" a little extreme, dial them back a bit.
Quoted from merccat:
Interesting idea. I kind of like the additional light back there regardless... but along these lines you could also possibly rig it to change color depending on up or down.
I would like to see it change color with one of the neighboring lights and also turn off when they do ... like in the "lights out" mode.
Quoted from Mechanized:
I don't want to increase power, because I have "bounces" reduced to a minimum.
If the "bounces" happen at the entrance to the ramp, I had that too. A long ways back in this thread it was discussed and what I and others did was remove one of the entrance ramp screws to make the metal piece lay flat on the playfield. I removed the left screw and I rarely get air balls or bounces anymore in that area. Definitely get the cliffy protector for the upper munchkin land playfield, or it will get damaged with these bounces. See the mods you have to make to that cliffy in this thread also for ball launch issues ... unless he has that cliffy fixed yet for new orders.
Quoted from ramsfan:
More importantly, I am getting some rather violent airballs when I hit Glenda target or maybe just to the right on the ramp. I do have the Cliffy installed on the Munchkin play field, but what things are others doing to reduce this?
What I did was remove one of the screws that attach the bottom of the ramp. This allowed the metal piece to lay flatter on the playfield and I rarely get air balls in that area anymore. Others have done the same, which is where I got the idea from. Try it and if that does not reduce the problem, put the screw back in.
Quoted from GotAQuestion:
That's a beautiful cover. I just have a standard black one from ebay. And I put a plastic carpet runner on top of it upside-down to prevent the cats from sleeping on it.
Thanks! It's just a fleece blanket, but has really bright colors and is really nice. I like it. Made in Hong Kong and took 3 weeks to get here.
Are your games plugged into a power strip? If so, try plugging your pin directly into the wall plug duplex and see if it still happens. It's worth a try. I've seen issues to where higher power consumption (like multiple pinball solenoids going off) has issues with "some" power strips. If it is the only machine on, the condition may not be as bad. It has been posted in other threads that California power sometimes fades down just a touch and effected some pins. I have a Monster brand spike protector with a power meter hooked up to my TV, video, and sound systems. From that, I know when the power level is down a bit. Our Dam in Hell, MI keeps the power pretty steady ... usually.
Quoted from bhwolf:
This might be obvious when I stand over the machine -- how hard is it to remove the trees from the pops? I have some mylar I'd like to put down in that area and I think removing the ramps / trees will make the job much easier.
It's not that difficult. I did it when I added the mod for lighting up the tree eyes from WOZMods.com. If you're going to do that mod, you might as well do both of these at the same time.
Quoted from fnosm:
There is a setting for this that increases/decreases the required score so that replays occur every X%(in the settings you determine the %.) So if a lot of high games get put on the machine then the value increases. Alternately if the only people that play the game aren't able to get good scores then this value decreases. I have seen the value be as low as 180K on my machine.
My family demanded that the reward be turned into extra ball awards instead so that they can make it further into the modes. They also demanded that the auto increase/decrease feature be turned off (just set values) because it was unfair to them if I got the award first and then the same award went up for them. I keep them happy so that pinball is perceived as being a family fun competitive activity. That way, more pins showing up is not a negative thing to them.
Pull the playfield up and back so that the supports are resting where the lock down bar normally is. Find the solenoid that pops the ball into the trough on the right side. Manually push up the solenoid to eject the ball one at a time. If your trough has a gravity gate so that the balls would not pop out when fully upright, then you have to hold that open with your other hand. Or follow what the others have said with finding the solenoid in test mode and activating it one pop at a time.
My slipper broke about a year and a half ago ... probably 500+ plays ago ... and the super glue fix is still holding. That does remind me though, I want to get another set while I still can. Thanks for reminding me!
Quoted from TRAMD:
It might interest you here that my new game is running version 6.10. I was previously told by a support person at JJP that 6.06 was the final version and I still have that version on my standard. Perhaps 6.10 is an upcoming new/final version?
Keith posted a few days ago that there is another update for WOZ coming in the weeks ahead with some fixes and one mode that has not been implemented yet - "Reserve Ball Play".
Quoted from FalconPunch:
Reverse flippers is the wizard mode for the crystal ball.
It's 3x scoring with reversed flippers. It's happens after you start all 4 2x modes. Then the inserts are white and you start the mode after spelling ball.
Anyways I made the same mistake you did. It's actually:
"RESERVE BALL PLAY"
Oops, my mistake, I've never reached the reverse flippers wizard yet.
Fire pots ... I bought mine a long time ago, but can't put them on. The nuts are stripped on the little black bolts on the throne room attachment. I figure I have to cut them off with a cut-off wheel and likely have to buy a new throne room plastic if I nick it with the bolts. Anyone run into this problem and have a solution? Not looking forward to this one.
Quoted from DeathHimself:
Those should be nylon nuts so have you tried to put a vice grip on them and open with the screw driver? If you remove the toto plastic guard and spot light you should be able to access the nuts.
Yes, they just spin and spin. I tried prying the nuts as I turned the screw with no luck too.
Quoted from clg:
Sometimes if you put outward pressure on the nut (pull it away from the screw head) while you are turning it you can get them to grab enough to get it off. Easier than cutting it and you still need a new one.
Yep, that's what I meant by that I tried "prying the nut" ... away from the throne room plastic head. If I can find something to freeze it with, it might stiffen the nylon on the nut so that the threads wont give as much, if they aren't too damaged already.
Quoted from BlueIrocGuy:
Has anyone hooked a powered sub up to this game?
He fixed his problem in the thread link above, so I never got around to making the video yet.
Quoted from merccat:
Simple green is a degreaser. It might be fine if you are looking to prep a playfield for restoration (IE deep clean and strip existing wax) but I would never use it for my daily cleaning, especially on a playfield not in need of that harsh of a chemical.
What do you use for the intermittent cleaning of the playfield between waxings?
Quoted from pinballinreno:
JJP uses mist n shine for detailing before shipping.
amazon.com link »
Or get a gallon for everything in your home, including you car:
amazon.com link »
Thanks! Seems people do vastly differently things for cleaning between waxings. I'll try the mist-n-shine.
This last weekend we "kind of" went overboard with the WOZ theme. We got 2 different WOZ slot machine toppers (never used) from Nevada - the right one in the pic I will use the center "window" to display digital WOZ theme pics and WOZ pinball themed YouTube videos/promo videos. They both are backlit. Those will be yet another side project.
We also went to "The Land of Oz" in NC as one of the main parts of our vacation. I got "volunteered" to be the "Tin Man" on the tour of the abandoned theme park. It was pretty cool and fun ... would have never done that if I didn't have the WOZ pin. A lot of the Land of Oz pics will be put in the digital picture frame put in the WOZ slot topper.
Quoted from OlDirty:
Not sure if i'm also a member when owning just the playfield, but anyway. Did a project to animate the playfield with an Arduino UNO and WS 2812 RGB Led strips. Recorded the original animation and analysed it frame after frame so i know how the LEDs needs to be controlled. Workload was absolutely insane, never thought it would take that much time. A "bit" of soldering and a "bit" of coding".
But at the end i'm happy with the result. Enjoy!
» YouTube video
Great job! I want one. You should sell the lighting with program then just let us buy the playfield on our own.
I'm in the process of shopping out my woz and adding cliffys that I bought many months ago. I found chipping at the trough hole which I know is pretty normal. When I bought cliffys for my ACDC, someone suggested a cliffy for that trough that was from another game different location. Does anyone have a suggestion for a cliffy that could work here on the WOZ trough?
I am soooo bummed and mad. I bought a under cabinet Light package for WOZ, installed it per the instructions, only one way to install all of the connections. On boot up none of the playfield lights worked. I disconnected the mod and all of the playfield lights are still out. The spots are the only lights on and the crystal ball. I'm pretty sure I blew a fuse. Can someone please tell me what main fuse to find and test to see if that is the problem? I have a party tomorrow (Friday) and really want to get this thing working again.
Quoted from LTG:
If your game has a universal power supply board, I'd start there.
Or take a meter and check any LED board to see if you have power at the purple and black wires.
If you have a switching power supply on the middle bottom of the back wall of the cabinet, put a meter on it and see what it's doing.
LTG : )
Throne room lights up too. W1 connector I get .05V and the W2 connector I get nothing. I have a WOZECLE Manufacture date 9/27/13. Don't know what to put a meter on for the switching power supply.
Battery was dying in my meter. Change that battery and checked a battery to make sure it was reading correct - rechecked and W1 connector was .04 volts, W2 was .02 volts
Checked a big connector coming out of the power supply in the back with purple and black wires connected to nothing = 7.56 volts
I found it. That big connector that I checked was disconnected from the main umbilical cord to the playfield. I must have tugged on it while moving wires around and it became disconnected. Problem solved. The troubleshooting steered me there - thanks! FEW!
Quoted from rubberducks:
I'm surprised someone hasn't come up with an air ball stopper for the ramp, yet.
A ton of ramp shots aren't made because they jump, and most of the hits to Munchkin pf edge are rebounds from air off the ramp.
I fixed mine a long time ago ... well fixed it 99% of the time. I unscrewed one of the bottom ramp screws to completely flatten the ramp transition with the metal piece. That fixed it for me. Try it. Someone suggested it to me about a year or so ago and is probably buried somewhere in one of these WOZ threads. Remove one of the screws and see if it helps. If not, switch to the other screw. If that still doesn't work, at least you tried something that worked for a few people.
Quoted from Ramjet:
Well, that stinks.
Have you ever thought about putting on yellow Titan flipper rings instead of the red ones you have on now, it will make the outline of the ruby slippers much more noticeable and looks great.
I installed the glow in the dark ones - those kind of match the playfield idea/intention underneath them. They really look cool under black light with the way the playfield is. I'm going to eventually install a LED UV strip for a trough light when I get time. Just debating if I should tie that into the randomly blinking state fair light from WOZMODS that I bought a long time ago.
Quoted from jasonbar:
While I don't have many ramp airballs, it would be nice to have zero. I tried removing each screw & then both screws but could see no change in how the ramp or flap were positioned. Even with those 2 screws removed, I could not pull up on the plastic ramp--it's secured well by other fasteners.
What I *did* notice was that my steel flap was pulled away from the wood playfield juuuust a little on the right side (near the rainbow targets). May be a non-issue, but I didn't see a way to tweak the flap down without pulling the whole ramp.
I wouldn't remove both screws at the same time. Just either the LH one or the RH one. Sorry if I wasn't clear on that. If either of those help to flatten the metal piece to the playfield it should at least help with air balls. It did for a few of us that tried it.
Quoted from dnaman:
Curious to know however, what are the changes in boards and tech? The current and older hardware (driver board etc...) seems like it is possible to repair as it has larger components. If everything is downsized and uses more SMDs, then it starts to close the door on local repair. Depending on the quantity of new WOZ pins that are made, it could also mean that there would be less of the newer 'tech' available if they stop manufacturing WOZ, sooner than later. Can they produce this 'indefinitely', license wise? That would be cool and might address my concern.
Business can change a lot in pinball, but what Jack told us back in July is that they were going to still be making WOZ for "quite a while" as it continues to sell well. I don't remember his exact words, but from what he was saying, it seemed like the license is either a longer term license, or that it was renewed. He did say that with the "original" purchase of the license back in the beginning, it was quite expensive with lots of meetings involved. (probably normal for pinball licenses) He will likely say something about WOZ in the JJP seminar at Expo. If people continue to buy WOZ pins, I think they will keep making them. It's their best seller (total sold) so far.
I haven't played WOZ in a few months (with all of the updates on TH and DI holding my interest). Played it tonight to test out a mod and battled the witch twice in one game and beat her on the second attempt for my first time ever - we've had the pin for about 3.5 years. That felt great and was cool to finally see that fanfare. What's after that? The encore multiball (whatever that is called) after beating the witch had a bunch of lights flashing different colors on the inserts and I shot for and got a few of the white diamonds, but I didn't know what I should do at that point. After that multi-ball, it went back to normal. Never really payed attention to all the hoopla about it before as I had to beat the witch as my short term goal. What a rush! Now my wife is pouting because she had the grand champ score for the last few months and I went past her score. She just has to try some more.
Quoted from Nokoro:
The victory laps mode after melting the witch is just a five ball multiball where all shots are lit for jackpots. The jackpot value decreases for as long as you hold in a flipper button. So you kind of want to play it like no hold flippers. It is really fun, and a great reward for finishing off the witch.
Ah, okay, that makes sense with what I saw. Thanks for the explanation.
Quoted from coz6:
Prior to 2.0 thanks all for the pointers I'll give it a try again
I just bought a set for my WOZ ECLE on Black Friday and Scott told me that he is sending a special connector with it for WOZ only … not sure if that connector is meant for the flasher or the GI. It's in the mail and I haven't received it yet.
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:
Scott told me that was a bad idea, you'll note the multiple versions of Woz installs on the pin stadium page. Seeing how testy the lighting system is I'm definitely not willing to try haha.
Quoted from adol75:
Keep us in touch, I'm considering getting a set but I don't want it to be on permanently, lights out mode plays great because all lights are out (except the throne room, and I still hope it gets fixed on the next code), same with TNPLH although It feels they changed the way the playfield used to turn Sepia, which was really impressive.
Rather then getting this off topic, see my linked review of the Pinstadiums from their thread and the constructive responses and tips from Scott about it. It seems that they would function better with the 2.0 light boards. Note some of the other people's similar opinions. I love them on my AS and DI.
Now to order a new light board, the big one in the center with the swirl that went bad. Ugh!
Check your center drain trough hole. You might need one of Cliffy's special re-purposed cliffys. He knows which one it is.
Quoted from Wanderers:
Ok yes your definitely right, iv just had a few games and they have gone off again.
All I can put it down to is the board that the first grey wire is connected to ( the one that is under the foot of the ramp and goes off to 29)
Should I order another one ( board that is) ???
When I lost all of my lights like that, it was a loose connection at a back connection in the cabinet going to the power supply. Check all of those big connectors down in the cabinet.
Quoted from Gotfrogs:
Nope, I have never touched the inside of one before! My main hobby has always been saltwater reef keeping and poison dart frogs. I am looking forward to taking on something new that I don't have to worry about feeding while on vacation! Back to my question above, are those good mods or are there better versions of the? I am specifically curious about the Winkie and the plastic protector. I read somewhere that some of the light up Winkies were 3D printed and would break rather easily. I assume that this is no linger the case from Mezelmod. Is there any downside in adding the slingshot plastic protectors? Or there any other plastic protectors that are strongly recomended? Thanks!
Take a look at wozmods.com for the balloon LED. Not sure if Mezel's is just lit or like this one that flickers like a flame. I bought the wozmods with the tree eyes that are controlled from the same flicker controller a long time ago. The balloon looks good, but if you add more lights to the playfield the tree eyes effect would likely not show up much.
But ... it doesn't have the wood apron. So is it one of those special green editions that is not an LE?
Quoted from PanzerFreak:
Does anyone have a solution for a ball getting stuck behind this area on the upper left playfield. It doesn't happen often but still enough to make it annoying.
I have the castle walls mod and it has never gotten stuck there. That might be why.
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