Howdy-

I joined the club a few weeks ago. Got an early HUO ECLE.

I had played the game several times at shows & wanted to like it but couldn't really get into it.

In a home environment, with the lights dim & nobody waiting in line to play, it's a whole other game--I'm overwhelmed--I'm not big on learning game rules, & my schedule permits me only short & sporadic play sessions, so I'm experiencing it as a casual player, but, boy oh boy, is it a spectacle! :]

I finished reading all these posts today--I found lots of helpful information--thanks for all of the contributions to this thread.

-Jason

Howdy-

Got & installed Indy Pinhead's lit Winkie mod. Nice little mod. I find this game to already be overload, way too busy, way too crowded, an over-the-top tour de force, so I'm not inclined to mod it, but this mod is so functionally important to knowing if the drop target is up, so I went for it.

I put in a slightly dimmer LED, then, after playing, I also angled the LED away a little to turn down the brightness a little more.

---

A warning when replacing the drop target!

Short story: make sure your drop target switch registers solid closed when the target is down!

Long story:

After installing the mod, after playing several minutes, I got stuck in ball search, with a monkey ball up behind the single castle door.
I had blown fuse F703. Hmm, the upstream fuse before 3 downstream fuses, 1 of which controls the Drop Target Retract. Coincidence? Probably not!

I replaced the fuse. All coils worked fine in the test menu.

Played a few minutes, got stuck again.
This time fuse F710 had blown. This controls Drop Target Retract, Castle Doors VUK, Castle Double Doors, House Wall Drop.

Main suspect *definitely* Drop Target Retract!

I went into the switch test menus.
It turned out that the Winkie Guard Drop Target switch (#73), indicating drop target down would close only briefly during its drop & then return to an open switch condition. It was juuuust borderline aaalmost adjusted correctly. I'm not sure if I'd bent something a little bit or if the new target didn't push on the switch lever arm exactly as the stock target did, or if some other factor was present. So, I bent the switch control arm to get really solid & consistent behavior.

Apparently, while I'd been playing, the game had put the drop target down but didn't know the drop target was down, so it must have been really jamming on that poor little Drop Target Retract coil to really really really try to drop that target!

All better now. Played many games with no problems.

---

On another note, in both the Indy & Mezel products, it's difficult to see the art relief in the clear target. I bet that a simple black vinyl CNC-cut sticker on the target face would show a really nice silhouette.
Or, maybe even a normal full rectangular art sticker printed on thinner paper--would that bleed light?
Or a full rectangular sticker printed with some clear portions on the art.

Another simple idea: a plain small rectangular sticker (or paint/vinyl/sheet metal?) "hat" on top of the target to block light bleeding through the top face when it is down. I really like the glow of the target face when the target is up, but I'd rather have the target light be hidden or muted when the target is down. I think it would be more eye-catching if it glowed when up but was muted when down.

Thanks,
-Jason

Same issue on my machine, but on the backbox LED strip wire.

There's a 2-position connector at the back of the body that connects the LED strip to the wiring harness. One of the pins on the LED strip side wasn't seated in the connector & had pushed out. In the pic, the yellow wire, which had pulled out, is noticeably shorter than the black wire, so it must have had some tension wanting to yank it out--somebody probably goofed the crimp, cut the wire shorter, & redid the crimp.

This one wasn't too hard to pinpoint--it was sticking out noticeably.

Thanks,
-Jason

WoZ BB LED Connector (resized).png

Finally! Took almost 3 months!

(and easy outlanes, 5 balls/game, & a modest ballsave timer)

Wow. Felt wonderful. What a rush. Good timing too, as I'd played about 1 hour of adrenaline-rush super-flashy-modded Tron earlier, a game whose ruleset is more up my alley (simple!). I was getting a bit disenchanted with this game, as the rules are too deep relative to the limited amount of time (both frequency & length of play sessions) I have available to play (partly b/c the game just has so many coils & is so very loud during multiballs, & it's in the garage under the bedroom of my 1-year-old light sleeper of a daughter), but tonight was a thrill--she'll definitely stay around for a while. :]

(Still ended up getting only my 3rd-highest score...)

-Jason

Going (resized).JPG

Goinnnng (resized).JPG

Gone (resized).JPG

One time, after playing several games, I noticed that certain shots weren't lighting up. I went into test mode & saw that many of the lights were off or stuck on a specific color.

Reboot fixed it.

Only 1x in about 6 months.

-Jason

PS--and had the game freeze a couple of weeks ago--only time in 6 months, reboot fixed that too.

I played WOZ several times at shows & at one location (Marvin's in Farmington Hills, MI, a quiet location).
I didn't care for it. It was just too crowded, too much stuff, too confusing, too everything.
I love the movie, but the game felt like an overboard fanboy explosion, trying to cram too much stuff into too little space.

When changing up my pin lineup last year, a local offered me an attractive deal on his 1-owner HUO ECLE.
After not finding any other games on my wish list that were readily available, I sealed the deal. I know lots of serious players whose opinions I respect, & they love the game. I could always resell it or sell it back & wouldn't likely take a loss. Low risk deal--a big plus for me, as this was the most expensive game I ever bought...actually the most expensive *anything* I ever bought, beyond homes & cars.

For a while, I didn't warm up to it. I don't get much time to play, & even if I did, deep ruleset games are not my preferred flavor of pin.

I turned on the ball save, widened the outlanes, & switched it to 5 balls. (Some may scoff, but it made the game much more fun for me & especially my 4-year-old boy.)

Then, after a few months, I started figuring out enough of the basic rules to make the game interesting & challenging.

Now, I think the game is fabulous. My boy loves it. I've melted the witch 3x (twice in one game...which I had to walk away from because I was later for dinner--argh!!!), & that's such a blast that I've experienced on no other machine.
It really really shines in a home environment. For me, playing on location was not very representative at all of playing it in my home.

Moral? If you have room/time/patience, try it out for a while & see if you like it. Hopefully, you buy at a good price so you have the option of reselling, so there's no pressure to make yourself like it.

Thanks,
-Jason

Good thing eyes come in pairs!
You can wire both 6V LED in series into your 12V supply, & each LED will see 6V.

Overvolting LEDs often leads to really short life.

-Jason

Howdy-

My crystal ball on my ECLE pooped out.
Played a game. During boot, noticed colorful backwards/upside-down text scrolling. After game started, colorful backwards/upside-down text stayed put.
I didn't pay much mind to the text, but I think I recall seeing "SDa" or "SDu" in there(?)

Power cycle.

Now crystal ball dark.

Wiggled connector to back of crystal ball screen. Nothing.
Popped the card out & popped it back in.

Power cycle..

Still dark.

Started tracing cable to give the other end of it a wiggle. It hides in the umbilical with a million other wires.
Where does it come out on the other end?

What's the fix for this issue?

Thank you very much,
-Jason

Fixed!

Well, "fixed"!

Fired up the game a few days & the crystal ball was just fine.
Upon further research, a few others have seen this issue & it often resolves with a reboot.
When I'd rebooted the other day & seen only darkness in the crystal ball, I don't think I waited long enough--the ball doesn't seem to show any images right away upon power up & attract mode.

Yay.

Thanks,
-Jason

In a year or so, I've had maybe 2-3 times where things didn't boot right or where a reboot was needed to correct odd behavior.

Hey, i'ts a computer in there...computers don't always behave...

Regarding not touching the game during power-up, the other day, with company here, I got a weird text boot menu when it was powered up. A bit scary. I said, "Wow, I've only seen that once before, when my friend & his hyper kids were over here and.....hey, did you hit the start button or something when it was booting?" A glance in the manual doesn't show it, but it seems that hitting start during boot pulls up a fundamental OS boot menu thingy?

Thanks,
-Jason

While I don't have many ramp airballs, it would be nice to have zero. I tried removing each screw & then both screws but could see no change in how the ramp or flap were positioned. Even with those 2 screws removed, I could not pull up on the plastic ramp--it's secured well by other fasteners.

What I *did* notice was that my steel flap was pulled away from the wood playfield juuuust a little on the right side (near the rainbow targets). May be a non-issue, but I didn't see a way to tweak the flap down without pulling the whole ramp.

Thanks,
-Jason

JJP did indeed generously send me free mylar a little while back (ECLE, second owner, not under warranty): forest, balloon, and Winkie areas.

Jason

Playing with the boy today. Swapping between Tron & WoZ is hella disorienting. Games are so different. And both so awesome.

And the boy is in pretty good form--gotta back into regular play with him!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/njGmKHLERNLYuY8s8

Thanks,
-Jason

I installed the Cliffy Munchkin PF protector yesterday.

Not too tricky, except for 1 discrepancy between my machine (ECLE #196) & both the Cliffy & JJP manuals.
A heads-up to you, in case this applies to you.

There was no 2-pin connector under the PF for the black & violet wires. My machine had 2 pairs of black & purple wires snake up through the small hole. I thought perhaps the connector shown in the Cliffy documentation had simply been stuffed up through the little hole & I'd see it on the topside upon Munchkin PF removal.
Nope.

1 (resized).png

Upon removal of the Munchkin PF, I found those 2 black & 2 violet wires terminated in this little 2-pin 90-deg connectordoodle under the "W" in RAINBOW. See red circles in images below. There was enough slack to pull the Munchkin PF up a bit & then undo this connector here, so it worked out fine, but I did scratch my head for a while on this one.

2 (resized).png

3 (resized).JPG

4 (resized).JPG

Installation was otherwise straightforward. Took less than an hour, with 2 phone call interruptions & being stumped by The Case of the Mysterious Missing Connector.

While I had it off, I put a new band on that sideways sling under the O-Z rollovers & did some light cleaning.
Hooray!

Thanks,
-Jason

Ding dong, the pin is dead.

Please help diagnose:

On power-on, I hear the amp pop & 1 quiet fan is spinning, but the PF remains dark, nothing moves on the PF, & the monitor starts blinking "NO SIGNAL INPUT" after a few seconds.

Opening up reveals:
Fuse in front AC input power supply box not blown.
Power supply at front of PC box puts out 24V.
All fuses on big driver PCB on the left have their red LEDs on.
5 green LEDs lit on the small right Pinnovators audio/video PCB.
Fan on graphics card/mother board (?) isn't spinning.
Fan in back of cabinet isn't spinning.
I *think* the fan on the left side of the PCB box might be spinning--I can't see it well--I don't feel air moving, but it sounds as if some fan somewhere is spinning, & I can see that the other 2 aren't.

Thank you!
-Jason

Lloyd for president (or for whatever office you may be pursuing). You have my vote.
Or, if you've got a favorite charity, I'll throw a few $ at them in your honor.

Reset button in the electronics box near the front did the trick (fortunately, it's labeled clearly: "RESET").
Saw a purple Ubuntu screen for a bit on the first boot after hitting the reset switch, but then all nominal for a few games & power cycles.

Please explain, or please point me to where I can read more: what was wrong, & what exactly is being reset when I push this reset switch?

Thanks!
-Jason

PS--thanks for writing your reply with small, simple words so that I could understand it easily. :]

Thank you for taking the time to explain--this makes sense!

-Jason

Howdy-

I've got my first (I think) light board weirdness.

I've had the occasional light glitching/sticking/off, always solved by a reset.

Today, for about 3 hard resets, I got the same behavior. Only a few PF lights are on.
The image shows self-test "All LEDs on-white"

Looks as if only light boards W6, 29, 179, 178, & 176 are working, if I'm reading the map correctly.
Per the manual map, W6's connection is "from I/O", but I don't see where it goes next in the chain.

Please advise.

Thanks!
-Jason

1 (resized).JPG

2 (resized).JPG

Finman2000 & LTG, thanks for your replies!

I flipped up the PF, & confirmed that board 10 lights but board 12 does not. I see the daisy chain order on the PC cover. Super handy reference!
Ergo, light board 12 is suspect.
I gave the 10->12 cable some good wiggling w/ no change.

So, I took the cable coming down from 31 (castle PF) & plugged it into 10 (order of boards in this area is 11, 9, 10, *12*, 31).

This bypasses both the #12 board & the 10->12 cable.

Back in business!!!

To confirm if it was the board or the cable that was the culprit, I put back the 10->12 cable in the 9->10 position.
Still works.
Guess it's the board!

Guess I need to buy a 15-0006-00. Maybe I'll get a spare. One went bad on the original owner years ago. Compared to some light board stories I've heard, I don't feel too bad about 1 failure of the tiniest PCBs every 2-3 years.

Questions:

1. Is it safe to make these swaps when the game is on? Need to first pull the power from a light PCB before messing w/ the data cables?

2. The #12 PCB seems to light "Left Winkie" or something like that. Best I can tell, the light is inside/under the castle wall? Or perhaps it has a light pipe that goes up to the castle PF? I can't even find where this light is, so part of me is tempted to not fix it, but I'll fix it anyway--it would bug me if I didn't. :]
Actually, there are quite a few GI lights in the back corners that are so well hidden that I wonder if they're even noticeable when playing.

Thanks,
-Jason

Indeed. Already done, thanks.
I can't even tell that that particular board is bypassed--it's hardly visible. Fortunate for me, I guess. :]

Can the light boards be plugged/unplugged while the game is on?

Thanks,
-Jason

Thanks for all the helpful helpers' help!

Ordered a new little light board from JJP.
Figured I'd order 2, as one went out on the previous owner years ago, & might as well have a spare & save on shipping.
Super easy fix.
Wow, #12 GI PCB light (Winkie Target Left) hardly even shows! :\

Minor gripe:
Shipping was $14.20 for UPS Ground on a 0.8-pound fist-sized package & took 7 days to arrive.
USPS First Class package would have cost $5.50 & taken 3-4 days.
And the 2 PCBs, while well protected from the outside world, were jammed together in a baggie w/ no protection from each other.

Thanks,
-Jason

Soulrider911, I just went through a similar issue w/ LED board #12, which is Winkie Guard left, GI, but mine was completely kaput, so most of the PF's lights were out.
The forum helped hold my hand through my fix, so I'll pay it forward:

My machine is an early build, an old 5V, so if yours is also 5V, the following applies:

Per p. C-51 of the manual, boards 1-31 are 15-0006-00 WOZ Single GI RGB LED Board.
I ordered this:
http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/General-Illumination-board-5-Volt-.html
JJP promptly e-mailed me back to ask me which PCB # I wanted, as there some directionality to the bracket.

But, as others have posted, picking up the phone should get you quick results & better accuracy than we can provide.

Good luck!
-Jason

Quick 5V vs. 7.5V question, please.

Shannan-

I have an older machine that is running the 5V boards: serial number 0196 ECLE.

I received a replacement Haunted Forest LED PCB (PN 15-000018-05) that I purchased from JJP.

Upon receipt, I noticed that it says 7.5V on it.
I did not find on JJP's site a 5V version of this PCB.

A quick Googlage shows that (dependent upon build date?), one can use up to 3 of the 7.5V PF LED PCBs on a 5V machine w/ nary an issue.
Sounds weird, so I wanted to confirm w/ the experts here before I plug it in & power it up.

Thanks!
-Jason

Anybody want this for a mod/topper/bottommer/sider/behinder?

Wizard of Oz Horse of a Different Color Hallmark ornament.
New in box.

Howzabout $22 + shipping from 92620?

Thanks,
-Jason

20190102_221616 (resized).jpg

20190102_221625 (resized).jpg

20190102_221652 (resized).jpg

Welcome!

I find this game to already be so full (in a good way) that I've avoided mods.
Mostly.

The Winkie target has a significant functional value, as the stock black target is not illuminated well enough to see if it's up or down. I got Indy's.

And the Munchkland Cliffy is a sound investment for protection.

Plastic protectors are never a bad idea. Low price, easy to install and remove.

Balloon light: not for me. I like it as-is.

Enjoy!

Jason

Updated the code on my ECLE to 7.01 today. Hooray!

I first tried Unetbootin, b/c that was listed first on JJP's page, & it had lots of nice hand-holding screen grabs spelling out the settings & where to click.

But...it didn't work. Got this error when booting WOZ:
20190525_100539 (resized).jpg

Then went w/ Rufus & its default settings:
20190525_101014 (resized).jpg
Worked!

Settings backed up before the update & restored after the update.

All seems well. Hooray!
Now, I the hardest part will be finding time to play...

-Jason

Howdy-

2 lighting questions:

1. The throne room wizard head has a bit of flicker. Not the consistent pulsing when it's "lit" for a shot.
Sign of LED strip pooping out? Reseat connector? Other?

2. After playing for a bit (15 minutes-ish, sometimes longer?) some of the light boards go out or go dim & "freeze." No real pattern to which ones go unresponsive or their particular behavior.
I don't *think* it's a case of a board going out & all boards downstream also go out.
A hard reset of the machine always fixes the lights.
The delay before misbehavior, & the inconsistency suggests...a heat issue? Reseat or wiggle the RGB LED board cables?

Game is ECLE S/N 0196, an early build. Has 5V PCBs, except W5 Haunted Forest PCB is 7.5V.

Thank you,
-Jason

Please elaborate on wall nuts fixing some light board issues that manifest inconsistently after some gameplay but then resolve after cycling the power.

I had to search on "wall nut". I learned something today. Hadn't heard that term.

Which/where wall nuts are possible culprits?
And which wires are recommended to fuss with?

Thank you,
-Jason

Yes.
Yes, this happens.

No.
No, I did not know this happens.

No.
No, I will never be able to use this information for personal benefit anyway. How can cycling through these be helpful--totally a different animal from cycling lit inlanes & outlanes. Is there a certain T-O-T-O button that gets hit more often than the others, so frantically try to turn that one off if the ball is draining leisurely?

-Jason

PS--thanks for educating all of us

If relevant to LukyDuck's efforts:

I'm owner #2. Owner #1 had the game for years.
When I first turned it on after moving it to my home, the backbox did not light up.

Simple problem of one of the pins in the cable connector having backed out juuuuuust a little. Simple reseat (push) of the pin into the housing & it was fine.
Sounds similar to your topper problem, & the Start button problem that you fixed. Perhaps that's what's behind your dark topper.

Good luck!

Thanks,
-Jason

Anybody have any reviews of this product?

I've always found this game in its stock state to already be chock full of features & toys & stuff, so I have interest in very few of the mods out there, especially the cosmetic-only mods.

But this functional mod sounds attractive & useful, so I'm curious to see what users think.

Thanks,
-Jason

I think I'm in the minority. The stock lighting pleases me.

The only exception was putting in a lit Winkie target. It was completely impossible for me to see if the stock black target was up or down. This affected gameplay, so it was a priority for me.

Thanks,
-Jason

Glinda tried to knock my initials off the high score board. My scores are safe...for now...

IMG_20200729_153442 (resized).jpg

I don't recall where that blue stool came from, but we have a few of these & like them quite a bit. Small, fold flat, carry handle, solid, lots of fun colors:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07QPZYRB8

Thanks,
-Jason

Never mind

Agreed that the caps aren't there for decoration.

The replacement door motors that I bought didn't have caps.

I transferred the caps from my old motors to my new ones.

Tricky but not impossible.
The motor can is a giant heat sink that draws the heat away from the solder zone.

Thanks,
Jason

I greased my monkey & witch the other day (preventatively--they were behaving, & they're whisper quiet now), when I noticed that the "CAPTURE DOROTHY" light at the back panel was swung way out of position, so that it wasn't shining through the insert.

I've often struggled to determine if both Winged Monkey Lock inserts behind the trees were pulsing, or if they were actually solid but only appeared to be pulsing because of neighboring light activity.

Wow, there's a light back there!!! It's useful!!! It looks cool!

Wow, I think this light has been out of place for the FOUR YEARS that I've owned this game. I had no idea. *blush*

-Jason

IMG_20200917_183253 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200917_183258 (resized).jpg

I used Magnalube

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WP0UVK

-Jason

An easy question for the wizards here.

Sporadically (sometimes feels frequent, other times it's ages between occurrences), during a game, many of the PF lights will freeze on with some apparently random color.

This is always remedied by power cycling the machine. (I haven't found another method to get them to behave.)

I have a vague recollection of seeing posts about needing to fuss with(?) a set of cables (where they plug into the computer?).

ECLE SN 0196, very early run (first run?), 5V light boards w/ a couple 7.5V boards in there.

Thank you in advance for pointing me in the right direction!
-Jason

PS--This issue has been here & there for some time, but I melted the witch today (have done a handful of times, but certainly not frequently) & didn't get the full light show, so that was the last straw for me!

LTG , Nokoro

Thanks for the replies, but the request is to aid in finding the info about the trick to adjust a cable when a light board temporarily goes out.
I tried searching but failed.

(No need to bypass a bad board--there is no bad board--the locked lights are random & different every time, happen only occasionally, & all is well after a restart.)
(Can't go to 2.0 boards at this time.)

Thank you!
-Jason

Howdy-

I wish to buy these. Does anybody have them?

1. Single LED PCB, 5V, for LED 15. See attachment for the direction of the bracket.
Looks like SKU: S51-000000-00 http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/General-Illumination-board-5-Volt-.html

2. 10" RGB LED cable that goes between 17 & 18.
P/N 19-3031-10 4583

Thank you,
-Jason

PS: the story:
Half the PF lights were out.
Investigation revealed that 15 was showing only red, 16 was working fine, & 17 plus all downstream from 17 were off.
Swapped in a replacement (w/ the wrong bracket angle) for 15. 15 now good.
Noticed that the 17->18 cable's ground wire was broken at the crimp on the 18 end. Repaired pretty well (dig out cable strands, solder, heat shrink, hot glue).
No change.
Replaced 17.
All good.
So, in summary, 15 went partially bad, 17 went bad, & the 17->18 cable all went bad (at the same time?)

PXL_20210727_042703762 (resized).jpgPXL_20210727_043633238 (resized).jpgPXL_20210727_043519839 (resized).jpg

(Agreed on the boards being the same. I currently have an opposite-handed board in place now as a stand-in.)

The bracket is sandwiched between 2 PCBs, w/ tape above & below it. Do you twist it out of position to break both bonds simultaneously? I wanted to check before brute-forcing it.

I guess I could practice on my 2 broken ones before trying to adjust the new one!

Thanks,
-Jason

Wow, I don't know how just pulling slowly would have worked. It was stuck fast, & that tape streeeeetches!

My solution was to go in w/ a wide & rectangular-tipped X-Acto blade, bias it towards the bracket, so that it would separate the bracket from the tape (w/out gouging the PCB).
Even with that, it was a struggle to extricate the bracket.
Once removed, there was plenty of remaining sticky tape all around, so that I simply slid the bracket into its new position & it stuck fast. (That 3M tape that you mentioned costs $100+ on McMaster for a roll!)

Plus, as installed, the bracket is clamping the board's LED against the light pipe, so it won't go anywhere.

All that effort for light 15, which is under the crystal ball & hardly shows worth a darn anyway b/c the big opaque crystal ball bracket covers it up!

Back to 100% operation!

Thanks,
-Jason

Are your boards 5.0V or 7 5V?

Thank you,
Jason

I think you're wrong! :]

Cliffy is just a few screws after the PF is removed. PF swap is lots of screws, connectors, parts, wires, etc.

Thanks,
Jason

Neat. Nice to see new mods. I applaud the effort.

Please take some pictures from father away. I can't get a feel for what it looks like.

Thank you,
Jason

Did you put one of them square rubbers on the ball save post?

Sadly, looking to trade out of the club:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/136033

Trade wishlist (preferably a newer, deeper game from this list):
https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/jasonbar/collection#wishlist

Thanks,
-Jason

00 (resized).jpg

***TRADED***