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(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

6 years ago

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  • 11,572 posts
  • 587 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 15 hours ago by 27dnast
  • Topic is favorited by 273 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

9 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (6 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (4 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (1 year ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (1 year ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #11015 Adjustment advice for the monkey Posted by LTG (3 months ago)

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#4317 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I've had to replace a lot of the GI light boards all under warranty in my RR.

Had to replace almost all my boards in the first year and 6 more in the second not under warranty. never had to replace a big one luckily. I live in texas somewhat near the coast and its humid and hot even in the winter. I think my issue was since it was on route I did more maintenance and cleaning (plus it was on carpet which probably didn't help when I did maintenance). The tech told me to go with wizards mist and shine, and now anytime I touch the game I put a static bracelet on especially if I'm on carpet. haven't had an issue with those damn light boards in almost a year ( assuming part of that reason is because it's been at home with me for the last six months. the game is on tile with rubber stoppers.)

I'm probably wrong but I thought all the 2.0 system did was let the rest of the game lights remain uninterrupted if one failed. I would assume you would still have to replace the same amount of messed up boards unless they went with more robust electronics. (less prone to static)

posted another topic about the 2.0 system and LTG said if they did release a kit it would cost around 2k. Those were estimated costs, but I'm hoping if someone actually wanted to update their problematic WOZ then maybe they would subsidize the amount. Since in my opinion they should of addressed the issue way earlier then they did. The RR's with the 2.0 system must of been really late in the game mine is #eight hundred and sixty something. sucked should of done my homework. Still happy I purchased the game though.

#4318 3 years ago

Been playing WOZ a lot more lately, There are a few items I'm still not 100% on.
Why does the ball stop near the change lanes sometimes and not others. ( or how do you get it to stop back there?)

any tips on the ball save post? seems like 1/4 of the time I misjudge, it hits the post wrong and goes down the middle anyway.
Not used to playing games with posts I guess.

To collect the horses I know you have to shoot under the right flipper, but it's a near impossible shot in single ball play. backhanding Is easier but still leads to a drain more often then not trying to get the ball in the right position. just curious what other WOZ people do.

in weak flippers mode is it supposed to be possible to hit the munchkin ramp? should I increase flipper strength in the setting?

lastly is the wizard mode endless?

and in fireball mode the shots that are blinking red and blue are good/bad shots right?


#4322 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Not sure what you mean about wizard mode.

maybe not a wizard mode, but what ever the end of the rainbow is when you get all collect all the diamonds.

I usually try not to stack anything with fireball but... maybe I did. Three separate times now I was looking for a blue shot and not seeing any except the red/blue shot, so I shot it. wasn't sure if it gave a jackpot as well, since the animation screen went to something else the last two times I hit that shot. I know scarecrow was closer to getting burned up though.

thank you for clarifying.

Quoted from Pinballomatic:

This is indeed wrong; 2.0 is completely re-engineered from the ground up: It is loosely modeled after Hobbit but in practice it sets up and works most like the system that is in DI. It involves many cat 5 cables and a BAG board that runs the lighting system from underneath the playfield.

good to know, hope they do come out with the 2.0 kit then. probably take forever to install, but it would probably be worth it.

2 months later
#4714 2 years ago

one thing I've noticed that has never worked properly was trying to disable the tree bumpers.
when you hold the flippers down it's supposed to disable them right?

seems like maybe one out of 10 times it works, maybe.

is it anytime when you do it, or do you have to roll over a certain switch first?

#4725 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

There are settings in the menu. One setting allows you to disable the tree bumpers at any time by holding the flipper buttons and one setting allows you to do it only when the Haunted mode insert is lit to start a mode.

ok, that makes perfect sense. felt like there was something I was missing, if it's default I'd rather leave it that way.

#4739 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Put a piece of black electrician tape on the monkey's magnet.
LTG : )

that's genius!!
I just nudged the game a little when it happened.

#4740 2 years ago

one maybe issue I'm having (not sure if it's part of the code). In the destroy the wicked witch mode, sometimes out of the blue it stops letting you hold the flippers. It's like that no hold flipper mode, but it stays like that even when you are out of that mode, until you loose your ball. The witch said something both times, not sure if it's a coincidence "you can't control my ball".

It's happened twice so far. The only reason I don't think it's part of the code is because its so random (first time I hit the ball shot 3 times in a row, second time I think I hit a red shot twice, not in a row) and it stays active even when you are no longer in any modes.

#4752 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

You weren't trapping two on the left flipper and backhanding the Crystal Ball shot over and over, where you? I know the penalty for that during ECMB is no hold flippers until the ball drains, probably true during other MB modes as well.

..... yep the first time I did, I honestly don't remember the second time.

why would it continue after the mode ended?

#4753 2 years ago

any news about the 2.0 kit?

4 months later
#5417 2 years ago

does anyone have any tips on how the to get this damn mega jackpot, I've done rescue like a zillion times and only been able to achieve it legitimately one time (starting to think I just got really, really lucky)
I usually try holding on to 2 multiballs before entering rescue and play them consecutively to extend rescue. Other then that and practice I'm not sure what else I could try.

It's probably the hardest diamond to achieve BY FAR! Seems like all the other diamonds are a cake walk now comparatively speaking. I was able to collect 6 at the most on 3 ball default play, and obviously the most elusive was that damn rescue mega jackpot, Think I needed like another 10 ybr as well. DAMN you WOZ one of these days!!!

#5419 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

I believe it is hit all 6 main playfield shots 3 times, then hit the 6 targets on the witch castle playfield to spell RESCUE, .

SUPER HARD!! think I'm just gonna practice it with the glass off (so I can restart it over and over). figure once I can start hitting it 1 out of 5 times I'm ready to legitimately try the main game again. I'll check back in 5 years when I get good enough .

Quoted from DCFAN:

I think I have only done it once but I have been coming close fairly often recently now that I got some confidence and understanding with it.

the main reason I got comfortable finally with the game as a whole is by playing through the game with the glass off and catching drains, so I completely understood every mode and how to finish them. The first time I've ever done this with any game I've owned, but this was the one with the most complex rule set. I really didn't want to watch the tutorial another 20 times, learning rules this way stuck with me more then anything else I've done with this game. Especially during the beginning, when finishing one mode was impossible. I'd like to finish this game someday, so I can move on to another long game like LOTR or pirates. Who knows maybe it'll never happen , but I'm gonna keep trying damnit!!

#5428 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Thanks pinballinreno this is very helpful knowledge. What mods would I need to basically make it match the RR edition?
I Think it’s the caste walls, Toto And tornado?

If your playing on carpet do yourself a favor and spend the extra 800 for the 2.0 boards. I've replaced over 30 light boards on my RR while it was on route (on carpet), haven't had to replace one since it's been back at my house (on tile). a lot of it depends on how often you clean it, what you clean it with. I talked to a tech at JJP he recommended only cleaning it with wizards mist and shine (he said they did tests with novus and it produces a static coefficient of ?? something). The electronic components are very sensitive to static electricity. I'm probably in the far end of the spectrum for failures, but there were many people with the same issues.

If your careful you should be fine either way though. Currently I'm waiting to see if they ever release a 2.0 kit for the game (been talk of it for years now though).

#5440 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I suspect you have a grounding issue if static is a factor.
I have 10000 plays on my eclewoz.
I have replaced 2 of the mini led boards in 4 years.
It's the 7.5v version.
I would have to agree that the 2.0 electronics are more robust but the 7.5v system is also very good.
I would have no worries about the 7.5v boards.

I had 3 other machines on the same circuit and no issues with those. All brand new conduit, outlets and wires installed by yours truly. I wish it was a ground issue but, I don't think it was. I even suspected that might of been the case, so I moved it to another circuit that I installed. In which another 3 games were on and it didn't help.

I remember getting a replacement batch of 6 boards and 2 didn't work out of the box. that happened multiple times usually 1 out of 5 replacement boards they sent me were DOA.

#5442 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Some type of internal ground fault?
I'm just thinking aloud...

you might be right, just wish it would manifest itself differently.

#5444 2 years ago

The only thing is, I've had it at my house for close to a year now. obviously it doesn't get played as much, but I haven't had any issues since.

not a bad thought though.

#5460 2 years ago
Quoted from Radius118:

It exists and it's available. I installed a kit in my early production game.
Call JJP and ask about it. Last I heard they were offering the kit for $800 or so for a limited time, then it was going to go up to $1100 or something like that. I could be wrong about that though.

say what?
shit when was this?

think I've ask them about at least a dozen times.

#5461 2 years ago
Quoted from Radius118:

It exists and it's available. I installed a kit in my early production game.
Call JJP and ask about it. Last I heard they were offering the kit for $800 or so for a limited time, then it was going to go up to $1100 or something like that. I could be wrong about that though.

btw thanks, I'll definitely be calling those guys tomorrow.

#5467 2 years ago

2.0 kit ordered, sounds like its gonna be an ass-load of work!! I'm just happy they were able to release one.

Think the only other issue I had with this game was the sound, probably not a big issue either (never invested much time in trying to fix it). They did a great job building this machine overall.

#5469 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Nothing hard. More time consuming.
LTG : )

is there any drilling involved from the top part of the playfield to make the holes bigger. Think that's the only part I might not be comfortable with. (wish I had a crap playfield to test on).

#5474 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

It has been working fine ever since.
LTG : )

Thanks for the write up, doesn't sound to complicated. It'd probably take me a lot longer, without some type of instructions.
Other then the reason I'm doing this for, did you notice any other changes playfield lighting wise?

Quoted from LTG:

Then powered it up. NO LIGHTS. F*CK ! That took awhile to figure out. LTG : )

I'd be on ground crying or something. Hoping for a smooth transition.

#5479 2 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

I just got my wizard of oz rr about 3 weeks ago and have some small issues.
1. The sound has a chronic buzzing/humming noise when it starts up and a faint one when playing. Any way to fix this?

yeah I had the same issue with mine. If you pop the bottom panel off there are noise isolaters (little black box, under the silver panel) for the sound. I was told to try to take that out. ( i didn't)
Also I did upgrade the RCA audio cables. In my other games this makes a difference when I have issued like this. Getting an RCA that is a little better quality can make a huge difference most of the time, especially if your picking up ground noise.

Seems like a lot of people put those crappy monoprice RCA's in. they look good and thick, but they kind of suck. you can tighten the end of the RCA's so the connection is a little more secure. just get needle nose and slightly bend in the rca enough to where it will still attach to its mating connection but to where it more secure.

forgot that I did attempt a fix before I brought it home. I haven't heard it pop in a long time.

#5480 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

You'll do fine.
LTG : )

yeah, I'm actually looking forward to it.
thank u.

#5481 2 years ago
1 week later
#5595 2 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

As a RR owner that has had multiple issues with 7.5v system I wouldn't call it hype. Rather, I suggest this should be considered a YMMV situation.
Some lucky owners with 7.5V systems will never have any issues and for them I say the 2.0 isn't needed.
There are also some folks that like a continuous string of issues to be fixed. For those folks the 7.5v system may be a nonstop source of amusement.
But for people like me and the future downstream owners who will come to this issue completely oblivious to it, we stand to benefit a great deal by conversion to the 2.0 system.
Lastly if I was buying one today, I would insist on 2.0 or else make sure the price reflected a discount equal to the cost of the upgrade.

Ordered mine, probably gonna be a while before it gets here.
If I had mine at home I might not worry about it, or like others said get it now for the cheaper price and install if needed. It was frustrating when one light board took the whole game out of commission, which happened probably once to twice a month. About half of the time in general, issues aren't reported via Payouts or through customers, which means until you discover the machine is acting funky, you loose money.

It might of been an internal ground fault like pinballinreno said but chances of me finding it, if that's the issue are slim.
They are pretty much doing these kits at cost or close to it, I don't expect them to give it away. JJP would go bankrupt doing stuff like that.

1 year later
#8060 1 year ago

never realized how dark this game is compared to later releases. Added 3 spotligts… it helps, but could use like 10 more. To bad the game would look kind of stupid with that many.

it'd be nice if they had some type of lantern light.. similar to a spotlight. No idea how you'd implement it but.
yes I am aware of pinstadium, but taking them off every time I raise the playfield kills that idea for me.

#8112 1 year ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

As far as a lantern light, The Mod Couple make a great one for the castle playfield:
But if you add spots elsewhere, that does not really work for you. Pinstadiums just came out with the Hover mounting system which does not require you to take it off when you raise the playfield now. So that problem has been resolved. They are still a matter of personal taste though. While some say they are too bright, I don't have a problem with them as I adjusted the brightness and color so it does not wash everything out. Again, people either seem to love them or hate them. But the mounting system has been resolved (for an additional charge though...).

Yeah I just checked em out. My fear is once I get one....
Think I'm gonna keep it at three additional spot lights, still a few dark areas... but a world better then it was. Was gonna do it on the left sling to but, I'm happy for now.
Probably the biggest complaint I get on certain games.

This is with all the lights out. Also I just installed the 2.0 kit last week, don't think it made any difference as far as brightness.
least it'll be reliable now. ( two pieces of advice, is make sure you pre-drill. I waited on connecting the bigger RGB boards until everything had power so I could check to make sure wire length was good and the LED was centered and most of the light not blocked, otherwise your going to making more holes in the playfield.)
20190710_004635 (resized).jpg

#8113 1 year ago

I also just updated to the latest code. Noticed one annoying difference, when you get 4 horses of the wrong color (accidently) and shoot a lock it auto collects it when the new ball is plunged. It can be difficult enough getting a few stacks of horses, this is just gonna make it stupid to even try.
did it always do this? I had some settings changed a while back so I don't remember.

#8124 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

trough and backboard lighting would do a lot

I thought about it... hmmmm ok I'll give it a shot

#8125 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Known bug with 7.01

that sucks, hopefully they fix it.

It also did something else similar when you short plunge, on the right orbit switch while your in a mode. It qualifies (or hits) that shot as well, when I'm pretty sure it normally didn't.

2 months later
#8868 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I highly doubt future motherboards would be incompatible with what is running today.
Any computer experts out there to chime in on this?
The pricing for this MSI mobo is really inflated. I would imagine there are cheaper options that can work just fine.

I'm sure there are other motherboards you can use that are around the same age. I'm by no means a computer science expert, but It really depends on the kernel of Linux they used and library dependencies.

Its the same thing with RFM, you can't buy a pc today and expect it to work. unless you find a slightly older kernel that works with both hardware/software dependencies. That is unless you can reverse engineer the JJP WOZ build and compile it with another more recent version of whatever it is they are using.

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