Anyone have this happen or any advice?

Game plays perfect since new Feb 2017. Just recently, ball started kicking out of the Crystal Ball VUK so hard that it comes off the rails into the middle of the playfield. I figured I can go into settings and reduce the power. If that is the recommendation, any reason why? Do these just randomly ramp up in power? Thanks.

Thanks for the advice. I will adjust...

Coincidence that the Crystal Ball display acts up intermittently? There is an image most times. No image at times, but I have always assumed that was part of the game.

Occasionally, the image changes to complete pixelation, but then back to clear images. First noticed the pixelation of the image after the machine was on for a while during a party.

I went to make sure all connections were tight and re-seated the SD card (per previous posters/advice). Further thoughts?

I opened a separate thread but wanted to post here in case someone doesn't read the other. I'm hoping someone can provide me some guidance...

Our WOZ standard edition was playing near perfect up until yesterday when I decided to see if I could tweak the Crystal Ball. The screen would occasionally scramble from clear images to fuzz. So I leaned in to unplug/replug as well as reseat the SD card. I also bought the Crystal Ball Mod so I removed it to see what might be involved in the install.

When I went to install reinstall the original Ball, the connector was very tight and I couldn't tell which way the connector went. While leaning in, I accidentally depressed the start button and started a game. I was able to connect the Crystal Ball correct and upside down. I did this while the game was on to see if I could get the screen working. During the confusion, I flipped the game on/off/on... several times to see if the screen would come on, not realizing this is very bad to do with this game. Crystal Ball screen came on, but was upside down RGB lettering. Not realizing this is correct start-up, that as when I got nervous, thinking the connector was upside down, so I reversed the connector.

Currently:

The game powers on, loads files, all RGB lights are flowing on playfield and the backbox display goes into attract mode,

BUT:

1) Crystal Ball and other features, Wizard Head, spots, etc have gone dark.
2) The Start Button no longer flashes, so I am unable to start a game.
3) All of the service buttons no longer work

I removed the service box cover. All of the fuses on the I/O board look fine and their red indicator LEDs are lit. The fan is running on the power board.

I called JJP service and was told that I may have done something to the I/O board. I told them that I would try to figure it out. They said if I can't figure it out, I can open a case and send the I/O board in for diagnosis and repair. I researched jump starting the game with the paper clip but Tech Support said that shouldn't be necessary because the fn is running and the part of the game is in attract mode.

Anyone have a similar experience or a possible solution? Thanks.

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Found the 2 fuses (blades) near the ball plugin on the board. Thank you. I'll look for replacements. Now to try to figure out how to get the rest of the game back...

I took your advice but found these on Amazon and Prime has them being delivered tomorrow.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W2XLKL8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00

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They do sell the mni-blades at most stores... Walmart, Pep Boys, Autozone, Advance Auto Parts. The lowest I found them carry was a 3 amp. Having trouble already, I was not willing to risk over fusing. The 1 amp was just hard to find as pinballinreno mentioned.

Thank you HIPPY ! Brilliant. I ordered those 1 amp mini-fuses because I didn't have any lying around. Came in yesterday. I replaced both on the far lower right corner near where the crystal ball plugs in and reinstalled the I/O board. Everything works... coin door buttons, start button, playfield features. All good. Would never had thought to look at those as they are well hidden and not near any of the main fuses that have LED indicators.

So I had one of the automotive miniblade fuses blow on my I/O board a few days ago. HIPPY and LTG helped me track down my issue. When I pulled them out to replace them, there was a "1" on the top (1 amp). I bought the game new so I assumed this was factory. I ordered the 1 Amp miniblades on Amazon. Installed them and everything came back on... for a couple days.

While playing the other night, the game became very dark during game play. I noticed there was no topper light and the spots were out. After removing the service panel cover, I saw that fuse 713 was out on the I/O board. Made total sense because the manual says 713 (2amp slow blow) fuses the topper, Wizard head, spot lights and the start button. I replaced the 713 fuse and it again blew right away.

BUT I noticed the manual calls for 2 amp miniblade fuses in the lower right corner of the I/O board. The originals that I pulled and replaced were 1 amp. Could this be just a coincidence? Or do I need to replace them with 2 amp automotive miniblades first, before I track down the Fuse 713 issue? Could one be causing the other?

Any thoughts?

Thank you. Do you think this could be tied to the 713 fuse blowing? Or do I need to start checking voltages on all the 713 fused items? Seems odd, because none of those items were modded or giving me problems before...

I forgot because they were installed a couple years ago with no issues, so I went to check. I have splitters on the 12v line.

1) the topper (original line)
2) lighted flipper buttons
3) lighted trough
4) lighted State Fair ballon

Again, the game played fine for a couple years with these mods on. Can these things change their draw over time? I looked for obvious shorts but didn't see any. I was under the playfield and in the service panel a lot recently. Maybe I stressed something? I have the proper 2amp miniblade fuses coming tomorrow. I guess if I blow the 713 again, I can unplug all the mods to see if the problems continue and add them one at a time.

Thank you. I'll check the LED in the State Fair Balloon specifically. LEDs are supposed to last a long, long time and they do last longer than incandescents but I've seen my share of plenty of LEDs that have gone out and I've had to replace on our games.

Selling my crystal ball mod. Brand new, just not going to install it. Looking for original payment of $183 +$7 for UPS ground (shipping to mainland US only)... so $190. PM me if anyone is interested.

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