Anyone installed the playfield repair decals? Looking for any advice, procedure, what playfield items were removed, etc. Did you mylar over them?
(Topic ID: 87617)
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Wizard of Oz
Jersey Jack, 2013-
Wizard of Oz (Yellow Brick Road LE)
Jersey Jack, 2019
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Quoted from pinballinreno:I played YBR edition at TPF.
It plays the same as all the others.
I do like the upgrades to the castle playfield, it needed work, and the 2.0 boardset.
I think the yellow color is a bold choice and brightens up the game a lot. It still needs the playfield illumination kit. They didnt address the poor GI lighting.
Missing the monkey is no big deal, sad, but no big deal.
How have the improved door changed the game? Just reliability?
What's the flow of gameplay if the monkey doesn't lock the ball? Extra ball comes out on rescue multiball?
Quoted from pinballinreno:It just feeds another ball via the shooter. Same as if you had 3 balls locked in virtual.
Flow has not been altered. You still have to wait for the movie to end, the ball just stays on the magnet and drops into play.
My personal opinion is the get a RR version with the 2.0 boardset instead of the yellow, in spite of the upgrades for home use.
But I would absolutely get the YBR for location play. It's way more stable.
Thank you for my bias confirmation! RR 2.0 is shopping to me this week.
Quoted from PinDoctor82:I am not part of the owner's club, but I finally got to play WOZ yesterday (Yellow Brick Road edition) at Pinfest. What an amazing game...so many shots and so much fun. I was blown away, and I have never seen the movie ( ). Thankfully, I made a new buddy who has one and can continue to play whenever I head to his place, as I cannot afford one of these myself. Congrats to those of you who have a WOZ...you certainly made an excellent choice it seems.
Start saving. Your life will never be the same until you get one...muwahaha
Quoted from Nokoro:How is that possible?
Then again, I’ve never seen Casablanca.
Dude, he's bind. Have some sensitivity!
Quoted from hisokajp:any chance someone have pictures of the inside of the WOZ computer to see board set placement? I bought new MB/CPU to upgrade from Atom in the prototype.
This work? https://mega-tokyo.com/blog/index.php/site/2012/11
Edit.. this page also has some: https://www.pinballnews.com/games/wizardofoz/index42.html
This is a pretty freaking good deal if you consider quality and rarity... there are hardly any ECLEs coming up for purchase these days.
Quoted from hisokajp:First is early Atom board like mine Second one is the H61M board so that helps though it is a bit small to check all the details. Will help for now
Funny the article mention a "reset button" for the MB, I guess my prototype did not have one of those.
I can take a better one tonight. You can add the button, mine doesn't have it either but never needed it. I should really back both my jjp games up. How'd you end up with a proto?
Quoted from hisokajp:any chance someone have pictures of the inside of the WOZ computer to see board set placement? I bought new MB/CPU to upgrade from Atom in the prototype.
I didn't realize how far back the mobo is.. my phone was low on battery so I couldn't use flash. Let me know if this works, if not I'll take another in the morning. The game is still all open.
I doctored them up as best I could in Photoshop.
0504192109 (resized).jpg0504192110a (resized).jpgQuoted from johnnyutah:Saw this on a distributor web site. Looks like another run? Will they take out the monkey mech as well?
[quoted image]
Uh, it says flying monkey guys.. wrong?
Quoted from Pinkitten:So, my wife and I have a WOZ standard from 2016, our first ever pinball machine. We still have it after 3 years, and I doubt it's leaving anytime soon.
I'm considering powdercoating the stainless steel (current picture below) I've seen the job Robert Stone (I think his name is) does, and he's fantastic. He does an emerald green sparkle color on many of these. He can also do a ruby red sparkle color. (He can do literally any color you ask for). I'm considering doing something a little bold, like sparkle yellow with blue or red flake in it. But, with YBR out now, my yellow idea isn't as fresh.
Any suggestions? I think yellow with subtle sparkle or flake would look great. But almost any color would work on that game, so many colors are featured.
[quoted image]
Personally, and I have a RR on the way to me to replace my SE, I am a huge fan of the sparkle green. If I could have found a ECLE I would have jumped on it. Do the wireforms while you're at it 
Quoted from avspin:I think JJP removing the limit is not true. If they remove the limit they would be opening themselves up to a huge lawsuit. They may have been talking about it last year and decided then to make a new version to avoid the legalities.
When I bought mine I didn't know of the limit, just wanted one based on aesthetics compared to the green one. Played both at Golden State and the wife wanted the red one so that was that.
The number itself doesn't mean anything as far as production. There is a roll of numbers and they just grab one for each machine. So mine is 1460 made Feb 2017. I'm pretty sure it wasn't one of the last at that point.
Yeah, sounds a bit odd.. that also they would compete with themselves in launching a new version and then providing more of an older version. Maybe they haven't made all 1500?
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Me again
Ok, so I sorted the hall sensor by zip tieing it in the loom just above the magnet. Works a charm. Can’t sway in to anything to risk a short.
In other news, I noticed that occasionally when I started mutiball, the balls wouldn’t release. It would do a ball search forever but never realease the balls from the lock. In coil test the lock coil wouldn’t work. I had to remove the glass and manually lift it. Then it would work ok for a bit, then do the same.
Luckily I removed the glass quickly to investigate as I touched the coil it was red hot and then started to smoke.
I was in coil test at the time and it suddenly started lifting and dropping as it should. I obviously then turned the machine off and left it.
So in essence. The coil isn’t permanently locked on. It will function correctly sometimes. Does this rule out a dodgy transistor?
I’m guessing The coil is now fried so will need a new one anyway. I can’t test for resistance at the moment as it’s cooling down and I need to get to bed!!
This machine is testing me!!
DANG! You should definitely call or open a ticket with tech support.
Are they really making more RR? Have we had conclusive evidence?
And then, are the including the monkey and are they updating the castle doors to the new one? That would be important to know.
Quoted from LTG:Today May 9th is my 6th anniversary of doing tech support for Jersey Jack Pinball. I'm grateful for all the friends I've made. Jersey Jack Pinball co-workers, distributors, and customers. To celebrate this occasion at my business SS Billiards, I will give any one stopping in today six games on their favorite Jersey Jack Pinball machine here. I have the full line up. WOZ, Hobbit, Dialed In, and Pirates. So come on in and help me celebrate ! It's been a great six years ! Thank you.
LTG : )
Congrats! An invaluable resource to us who constantly need help
Quoted from Nokoro:I’m convinced that WOZ is one of the greatest pins of all time. I had another one of those games last night where I had three or four things stacked together and everything was just nuts. Love it! You won’t go wrong in getting one.
The best is multiball lights off scoring.
Quoted from adol75:I love lights off but I still wish the throne room would be off too. Same with TNPLH everything turns sepia but there’s that big green light that stays on.
I have a lot of spotlights on mine so lights out isn't that dark. From what I read it's not supposed to be a mode where you can't see the ball but just a mode where the target lights aren't telling you where to shoot. So having the throne room on doesn't mess with me much. Might be able to control that with another input.
Quoted from f3honda4me:My first issue on my WOZ, the 3 light strip of LEDs under the Oz
acrylic are very dim. They are getting 12v ok by multimeter, so I'm
guessing I need the strip replaced. Submitted a ticket to JJP
hopefully they get it replaced under warranty soon.[quoted image][quoted image]
This just happened out of the blue after it being fine for some time? Looks like you have an ECLE, it's still under warranty?
Quoted from f3honda4me:I don't have an ECLE, it's an automated services exclusive
emerald green. It's similar to the RR in terms of features level.
($9500 new)
Ah ok, though that might be the case then. Wish I knew about the AS version, I wanted an ECLE but ended up with a RR to replace my SE. Love the green.
Quoted from f3honda4me:Yea I could have bought the RR or the emerald green and I really
love the green powdercoat. I also wanted invisiglass, shaker, and
the 2.0 boards etc. It's a beautiful pin, and we played it a ton at
a friend's house, but for whatever reason it just doesn't get much
play.POTC, IMDN, MBr, AFMr all get twice the plays our WOZ is
getting. It's not that we don't like it, we just like the others a
lot more I guess between me, wife, and 3 kids.
Yeah, the WOZ is getting a bit of a break since we got POTC but
I still love the game. When the RR shows up on Thurs I'm sure it
will get more love. Especially the modding
Quoted from joseph5185:But...but
The last time I played WOZ it did that "Lights Out" mode and...
I didn't even know that was a thing and I have only done it once
(and I don't know how I did it), but that was pretty sick!
Lights out is a mode triggered by the crystal ball. You have to light the letters BALL and then hit the crystal ball VUK on the left side. You can get one of a few modes, another is lights on. Love them!
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Man after what I went through today to get it into my basement I hope I don’t feel the same way !
Happy to say my woz arrived in basement damage free . Now legs . Man my legs are tired [quoted image][quoted image]
WOOOOO... nice. Sorry to hear about the basement, lol. My RR arrives tomorrow and I just get to wheel it in!
Quoted from pinballinreno:Could be a little tight at the top.
See if you can loosen the screws holing the track on and move the upper end up slightly.
If it wont go up enough, elongate the holes in the upper mounting bracket slightly with a dremel.
Sharpie marker will cover the scrape perfectly.
May I recommend a Sharpie paint marker? Covers a little better, has a closer finish and doesn't have that sort of purple hue to it. I have two different sets from different manufacturers and use them for all sorts of touch-ups.
Maybe someone here might be able to answer: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-rr-questions-20-gi-lighting-touch-up-paint-
Pinstadium lights just pulled out of a RR WOZ.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinstadium-lighting-#post-4997857
Would someone please post a picture of the winky target reset switch? Preferably from a newer game. Here is a pic of my older SE and the newer RR has a different configuration. My switch is dangling so I think I need at least a switch backing plate and screws but not sure if that clear plastic piece is something needed on the new mech. The mounting on my SE looks different than the RR.
Picture is my SE.
Additional question, would anyone happen to know which screws and plate I need from Marco? I am going to place an order with JJP so I am going to ask them as well.
Quoted from bobukcat:This is the only picture I have of the one in my RR, the plastic piece is usually there to protect the contacts on the switch.
[quoted image]
Sweet, that helps! Thanks!
Now to see if JJP can get me those parts or maybe Marco can figure out which ones.
AHA ... I found some of the stuff in the bottom of the cabinet. Not sure if there is more in there maybe under the PC case but it was on it's end being shipped so I would think everything went towards the back where I found this stuff.
0516191620 (resized).jpgQuoted from Oneangrymo:Well bless my heart when I lifted the glass to inspect Monkey mech that’s not a scratch from rubbing it’s just some white grease ! So no adjustment needed after all !
BOOM! Nice.. do keep that threaded rod and the guide rods lubed. That monkey can howl if you don't use enough lube. 
If anyone is having whining/hissing sounds coming out of the speakers during the boot process or cracking/popping noises when the game is fully on, it is likely your ground loop isolator/noise reducer thingy that JJP used. It's easily replaced, I wrote up a thread detailing my look into it with a part I replaced it with from Amazon: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/does-anyone-else-have-this-hissing-whining-on-boot-on-any-jjp-game#post-4998295
The WOZ noise isolator is in the bottom of the cabinet against the back wall, little black box. The new one just plugs right in.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Hey guys my decals on the backbox have some mild damage from shipping . My distributor is likely going to send new ones . Do u have any tips on how to take off old ones and put on new ones ? I went through a similar issue with my Star Wars but that was so factory fresh the decal peeled right off
Are we talking radcals or vinyl decals?
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Why did you pull them out? Seems like a nice upgrade to have.
I'm just not a huge fan. I am doing a custom spotlight, trough and back board lighting similar to my other WoZ.
0516191823f.jpgQuoted from Oneangrymo:I kind of like the darkness of woz, makes me feel like I’m sitting in a theater
I like playing with the lights off (that's how that pic was taken) which I could do on every other game I have but WoZ. The sort of purple lighting plays great with the other lighting effects.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:I like the look of that. What combination of lights did you use?
That is actually the pinball-bulbs.com WOZ specific kit. I think I changed the bulbs but they were similar when I got it. The back right WOZ spotlight (pointing at the EC) I changed to green and the other two stock are still white, but upgraded. The kit is 6 additional spotlights (standard chrome two piece spotlights, two on each sling and two right near the haunted forest) and 2 LED strips (sort of purple for the trough and blue for the backboard). It runs off 6v and comes with a step down transformer to use the JJP 12v hookup. Now that I saw that kit I just devised my own but with some changes:
1. I used only the one piece black spotlights that JJP uses. Looks consistent, clean and they don't come apart.
2. I am keeping everything at 12v so there are no bulb mixups (yes, I burned several bulbs). I am using bulbs from comet pinball, they have 12v bulbs in several options.
3. I am using RGB LED strips with a dimmer/channel controller so I can mix any brightness and color I want
I am building a little wiring harness so it all plugs it to look stock.
I can post details on the install and pieces if you want to match it.
Quoted from bobukcat:Did you adjust the Pinstadiums at all? To me that's the real beauty of them you dial in the amount of white and any other color light you want and I think they are awesome on WOZ. They'll even interact with the light show if you hook them up to do so.
I believe they were fully hooked up. I did not attempt to adjust mainly because I am fairly well set on the lighting solution I have/had so I am wanting to just do that. I also was not a fan of having to take them off each time I pulled the playfield (a surprise the first time). I know there is a better mounting solution coming but still, was a pain.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:I like the look of that. What combination of lights did you use?
Here is a thread I started on building my own WOZ lighting kit... I'm literally doing it right now so I'll add details as I get them done: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/documenting-custom-woz-lighting-upgrade-kit#post-5001149
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Can I just use a glove smear
Some on the fingers and rub it on the long screw ? Just a few drops? Thanks for help
Definitely. A little 3 in 1 oil works too.
Quoted from SDpinballer:Curious how you went about hooking to the external sub? I have one sitting around that came from a previous auto. It’s 12” and powerful. Not sure it could be pushed at all or might need an amplifier.
There is an AUX out on the back of the machine.
Has anyone found touch up paint for the red powder coated RR stuff? Haven't been able to find a way to get just a small amount of touchup paint that matches (with the metal flake). I assume it won't be a perfect match but maybe something close.
For anyone who was interested in my resolution for audio "pop" at power on, here is a thread I started: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eliminating-the-dc-pop-on-game-power-on
Quoted from fnosm:I heard this was a custom color.
This in the neighborhood but not the same.
https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-colors/PMB-6905/illusion-cherry?gclid=Cj0KCQiApbzhBRDKARIsAIvZue9SAzYmbA9ViYZMmGvR1M2i1bqVk2N6wZhaMFaIbkfjP7-nFhq4XxIaAiqVEALw_wcB[quoted image]
Yeah, but that's not paint... 
I am definitely not looking to get things powder coated again. I just have a few tiny nicks. I tried a paint called "candy apple red" from a ford car but it had no metal flake in it. It was close but just not quite right, it needed at least some flake. I'm gonna keep searching.
AH HA... Modfather paints his RR and ECLE parts with paint, he says so on his site. "tuscan red base" and then metallic flake sprayed over and then clear. I suppose if spraying is the only option, I'd do it on tiny areas. I don't know what that base is from, but I'm guessing an automotive paint. I'm sending him a note asking if there is a way to get some of the paint or where he sources, etc.
*If we're going spray can this looks like it might be a match: https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-MS200-Silver-Specks-Sparkle/dp/B00099C9QU/ref=sr_1_1
I suppose you could spray it in a cup and use a tiny brush for small sections. I have no idea what the match is like, but I might order a can just to test.
*Another option seems like it could be these mixed with some clear or actual red paint: https://www.amazon.com/Didspade-Roulette-0-008-metal-flake/dp/B00WAJFIK6/ref=sr_1_14
*Another paint that might work: https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Flake-Enamel-Paint-Spray/dp/B00383AFD8/ref=sr_1_36
*Probably not the best https://www.amazon.com/DecoArt-Dazzling-Metallics-2-Ounce-Acrylic/dp/B0019YE61U/ref=sr_1_27
*Another duplicolor spray, ford specific https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-BFM0379-Metallic-Exact-Match-Automotive/dp/B00407V4I6/ref=sr_1_32
Edit - Ok, I ordered the first option above and some tiny touch-up brushes. I'll report on how it looks.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Tell what else am I supposed to do or look for with my WOZ RR? Everything works fine just no bass, thats why I added subwoofer and my monkey has grinding noise, lube is on the way! What else should I be doing other then playing? Any defects or known issues I should look for?
Thanks guys
Mo
Cliffy protectors if you haven't yet. Covers all the big wear areas. I would add further pop bumper protection personally, some additional mylar circles. The protector there is about 1/3" too far away from the actual pop bumpers. It requires removal, but it's not too hard. Also, mylar behind the winky target (I don't know if the cliffy covers enough, mine is worn down quite a distance). Mylar square under the VUK drop point on the castle playfield, if not already there. Mylar around the VUK behind the castle doors, the edge around the hole gets beat up.
Mods?
Shooter housing: https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/woz/products/woz-ruby-red-shooter-housing
Shooter rod: https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/woz/products/woz-ruby-red-shooter-rod
Sparkle city: https://cointaker.com/products/woz-sparkle-city
Both of these could be done yourself, but mezel makes a great kit:
Light up winky: https://mezelmods.com/collections/wizard-of-oz-pinball-mods/products/wizard-of-oz-pinball-illuminated-winkie-target?variant=705017705
State fair led: https://mezelmods.com/collections/wizard-of-oz-pinball-mods/products/wizard-of-oz-pinball-state-fair
Chuck / Modfather got back to me. He suggested this paint https://www.michaels.com/craft-smart-gloss-acrylic-paint/10194082.html#q=tuscan%20red&start=7 (which I believe is what he uses on his parts) and suggested some nail polish clear as a top coat. I might just coordinate this with using a can of 2X Spray Max clear and dab some of that on instead. The only thing is that there won't be any metallic then, which I am pretty sure will stand out (like the ford paint I tested).
Then I thought maybe there is nail polish clear with metal flake, well there are some options but it's hard to tell what would look good. Then, I thought about my wife and mom who do "gel" nails which is a UV cured polish. Maybe that is a thing to think about, I know there is UV curing in dental work and in some adhesives for repair work. Maybe a UV cured polish will provide more protection.
Not sure what is going to match, so another toss-up unless there is a local store with a lot of options. I'll ask my wife.
https://www.amazon.com/Modelones-Diamond-Lacquer-Glitter-Manicure/dp/B07JG3ZQHQ/ref=sr_1_100
https://www.amazon.com/Kleancolor-Nail-Polish-161-Metallic/dp/B005IR3IMW/ref=sr_1_99
https://www.amazon.com/Pink-Gellac-Varnish-Professional-Shellac/dp/B078RBX39H/ref=sr_1_139
There are kits with a few sparkle polishes, so maybe they can be blended like paints.
Here is a UV glue kit, but I think you can just grab a UV light and be fine
https://www.amazon.com/Damn-Good-Plastic-Light-20910DGFL/dp/B07H61NM13/ref=sr_1_10
Doing some more research on this.. would be really nice to have a simple paint on and cure match.
Quoted from Calfdemon:Actually, if you want the light up winkie target, indypinhead from Pinside make a superior one. Nothing against Mezelmods as they make some great stuff, but there have been issues with their winkie and the one indypinhead makes is way better.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-product-lit-drop-target-for-woz
Hum... honestly, not a huge fan of that design. I am changing the Mezel mods bulb for something a bit more targeted and with a dimmer control inline so I can adjust. But I like their drop target look better, and it's the Winky as it was originally, sort of. You can also just grab their replacement target and wire up your own light, very easy.
Quoted from Calfdemon:I used the color changing LED from Comet as the bulb for my Winkie.. Looks good changing colors all the time on a slow fade. As for the target, the MM one might look a little better, but there have been a lot of issues with it breaking which is what I was referring to in regards to quality. The one indypinhead makes is pretty much indestructible. To each their own though... They both work and have good and bad points I suppose.
I thought they redesigned theirs? I know it's from http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/game-specific-products-star-trek-the-next-generation-drop-target-williams-p-47.html but haven't heard of any issues. Interesting.
I wondered about the color changing light. My only concern is that it would be confused with the color changing targets. Would you mind taking a video? I was highly considering installing another switch (or if possibly, using the drop target switch that is there) to turn the light on only when the target is up. I also think I might do a blue/purple light to match the winky color.
Quoted from Calfdemon:They may have redesigned their target, I just know that initially they were breaking constantly and the reviews reflect that. It might be a better product now, but the initial problems were why I steered clear and have been VERY happy with Indypinhead's design.
As for the color changing bulb, it does not change in conjunction with the rest of the lights and Im okay with that. It was either going to be an always on solid color, or a slow fade to many colors. I went with the changing colors. I didnt do any extra work to make it on/off as you are thinking or to try and get it to go with the rest of the light show. I suppose there would be a way to get a JJP LED board and have it mirror another close by light so it works in conjunction with the rest of the game? Something to think about I suppose..
Yeah, I just want to see what the target looks like with the color changing bulb. I have the green and I'm looking for a change. Haven't ever seen that bulb actually used, just on the comet site browsing. I am ordering from Marco right now and adding in one of their color changing bulbs to test out.
I was thinking about the possibility of robbing a light board connection to feed another but I am not sure how that would fair with the JJP lighting system. It seems pretty specific as to how many boards are in the game but maybe someone more knowledgable would be able to answer. I have a bunch of extra GI boards coming in from a JJP order so I can test it out with GI lighting. I don't want to screw anything up. Would be even better if we knew what model connector is used in the GI boards and could build or buy a splitter for easy hookup.
I really wanted to find a cool fire bulb for the balloon but the comet one was disappointing. I ordered some others from ebay which seem to be more of a flicker and less of a "rotating blink" kind of light.
Quoted from f3honda4me:This is the best drop down mod target for WOZ hands down. It's solid and will take bashing forever. The other drop target mods break too easily.
Welp, guess I'll order one as a backup
So my mom (trained manicurist using gel/uv cured polish) says she thinks it will hold up. Here is an option I think I might order which will let me mix and match to get the right shade:
https://www.amazon.com/VEAMOR-Platinum-Manicure-Pedicure-Colorful/dp/B01N4OK5DM/ref=sr_1_7
I already have clear here from my wife so I just need the UV light. I think it would be the easiest to put on, if it just holds up.
edit.. HA... look what color my wife has. And we have a "uv" blacklight from dog urine finding, testing to see if that will work. It's 8 AAA batteries versus the huge device the use to cure nails so I am guessing it will take a lot longer. If it works and looks good I'll grab a better light from Amazon.
0521191850 (resized).jpgHoly miracle batman! Not only does the little light cure it (takes a while) but the color is almost like a perfect match! This is before curing. It is as thin of a coat I could get on there but I'll ask my wife if there is thinner we can use to get it even better. Then I'll add a clear coat. It's curing now, seems to take like 3-5 minutes with the little light but I'm leaving it longer.
0521191857 (resized).jpg
*Edit... hekk! Here it is cured! I just noticed that the siderails, lockbar and legs are a different color. They are lighter red and less sparkle. Maybe I can lighten this color up, it already has less sparkle.
*Edit2... and here is a chip on the side rail that is completely hidden so I figured I'd test. It matches pretty darn close, so I think maybe the only difference is between the ramps and rails is that the ramps have larger flake. This is one coat, I am curing a second coat now and going to apply a third to bring it up to the right level. Really thin coats. I really hope this stuff holds up.
Quoted from mavantix:I was reading down the thread and was going to suggest nail polish paint, most of it is enamel and the gel stuff is even harder cure. Best part it includes the touch up brush!
Looks like there is a bit of a curing issue with this light, which makes sense. I tried to go to three coats and it's a little soft. I might just grab a better light (this was some cheap "find the pee" light) and try again.
Btw, here is the polish: https://www.amazon.com/China-Glaze-Polish-Pumps-Fluid/dp/B0026NR37W/ref=asc_df_B0026NR37W/
Modfather said he might make it available in smaller quantities and with a UV light (well, that was my suggestion). It's pretty cheap as it is, but still waiting on curing results from a new light.
Ack, hold off on the nail polish. That polish is not UV apparently, my wife didn't tell me that! So I am working on UV options now. Apparently it takes a base coat (primer of sorts), color coat and then top coat (gloss). She doesn't have an exact match so trying some things out and looking for options from what I posted before.
I did some custom lighting on the gouvea smoke mod:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/documenting-custom-woz-lighting-upgrade-kit#post-5008082
Quoted from Dansur:Just got my first WOZ! Looks pretty stock standard, just wondering what the best non-permanent mods are people would recommend?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/151#post-5005847
It's all about those details.
Titan rubber rings (I used the database kit, I am not sure the green works here and I might swap it back to black), black anodized nuts, black washers. Waiting for my green nuts to go on the slings and such. I have white nylon washers to use there. Going to look for anodized washers to match.
0523191227 (resized).jpgQuoted from adol75:Scary ! What are you doing to it ?
Let's see... I bought all new rubbers from titan (color matched, but the database list they had was sort of incorrect so I just placed an order for the right items). I installed the entire Cliffy kit (which basically necessitates taking the game apart). I fixed some playfield chipping behind the winky, at the upper magnet and at the throne room, painted them in and cleared it. I fixed some chipping along the munchkin playfield where the air balls hit it (cleared it so far) and then going to paint it and clear again, then install the cliffy there. I installed some custom RGB LED lighting on the gouvea witch mod, trough and backboard. I am installing a flickering flame light on the state fair balloon and a lighted winky target. I polished and waxed the playfield and installed some mylar in a few areas that were getting wear (near the top lanes where the sling is and around the right top bend). Probably going to throw a bit more mylar around the pops, the installed piece they have there from the factory is stupidly short in some places so the playfield still gets worn right under the pops. I installed many of the sticker kit (ball, glinda, monkeys, skill shot, castle playfield, etc). I installed 6 spotlights around the playfield.
I think that's it
Quoted from Oneangrymo:I ordered that audio doohickey thingy to get rid of the audio hissing and crap from amazon. HOpe it helps
Make sure the remove the old one. I ordered two more so far, need to do my WOZ but it helped my POTC 100%.
Quoted from apinballwiz:Probably the strip went bad, they fail somewhat frequently. You could check the voltage going to it - I want to say 12 volts but I don’t recall offhand, best to check the manual. Fortunately replacement led strips are rather inexpensive. Good luck!
Most every non-RGB light is 12v, so good assumption. Someone else posted recently that this went out, I think they even have it on the JJP web store.
I didn't like the solid LED light on the state fair balloon and the flame LED from comet was anything but.. it's just a rotating flashing light. So, I bought some flickering LED bulbs and they are way more realistic and pretty freaking bright
1 LED https://photos.app.goo.gl/yGKeovZqhy6nsYt78
2 LEDs https://photos.app.goo.gl/VJ4JHdnGzwoJdSoG7
I have a bunch leftover if anyone wants to do this, I think I had to buy 20 at a time.
Quoted from Pinbear:Tried to do regular maintenance on my WOZ RR today and found the Test report shows
"Check matrixes switch #70 RESCU(E) (stuck open)"
I have not lifted up the playfield to check. But do I need to order a new switch for it? or I need to take out the castle play field to confirm?
Thanks.
Stuck open? Sounds like maybe a wire came loose... usually those switches only need to be replaced if the contacts wear out. Shouldn't be that kind of wear yet. Stuck close I would assume the switch needs adjusting then, but stuck open sounds like a broken solder joint? Lloyd?
Quoted from LTG:http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/Light-Strip-LED-WoZ-head-etching.html
Says out of stock. You could call and find out availability.
LTG : )
Since it's 12v you could also just grab a small green LED strip and splice it in.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Checked out your videos. It looks good! Is it just me or does the two led version look more flickery compared to the single led? The 1 led video looks more like a blink than a flicker. Are these different bulbs (two diodes in one lamp) or two separate bulbs? I'm guessing the former since I assume these are mounted like standard pop bumper body lights with one socket threaded into the middle of the pop body.
I didn't look specifically, so I'm not sure if they blink randomly or if they have the same pattern. I am guessing the former, so two probably gives a more flickering look. They are individual 12v LEDs with wire leads. In the video I'm just holding them there, hooked up to a 12v power source. I retrofitted them into a bulb base so I could plug it into the socket I installed in the pop bumper. I just did one for right now, can easily swap it out for two. I need to see how it looks in the game with all of the lights on, I think one might be too dim.
0524191637 (resized).jpg0524191638 (resized).jpg
Has anyone had issues with the back of their haunted trees breaking? Specifically around the mounting nuts. I bought a used RR and the PO had that issue and then one of the trees that it came to me with had that same issue. The threaded rod that the hex spacer mounts to (the rod that comes off the metal bumper skirt) also snapped and left the end inside the hex spacer. On the SE WOZ that I've had for some time I never once had an issue with the trees or any part of the pop bumper. I was able to fab up a hex spacer to replace it and luckily I had a spare tree. Also... I had to dremel a whole ton off the back of the tree to get the nuts to thread on at all.
Just a little mod that I've wanted to do. Sorry for the upside down video. It's the winky light up target but when it goes down, the light turns off. It's purple in this test, it's the bulb I had on hand. I was annoyed by the light still being on when the target was down so I fabbed up a little switch that triggers when it is down. Was tough to fit it in there with the other matrix switch that is on the mech. Pretty happy with the results.
Makes putting the wireform back in a heck of a lot easier. You can put the nut on ahead of time and just slide it in. For whatever reason the RR I just bought has way less room to put this in than my SE. With the SE I could get a long socket down in there but there was no way on this one. But, once the wireform was slid on the post I could just get the long socket and extension in there to tighten down.
0525191459 (resized).jpgJust got the game back together. Coils are still dangling, waiting on sleeves. All of the lighting is installed except I am adding an additional flickering flame shooting out below the state fair balloon. I am going to change some of the bulbs as well, the purple is getting a bit too homogenized. It's less so in person but still a bit much. Maybe I'll add some dimmers so I can control each set of spots.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/L6fUfymwSdNCU4XP8
0525192237 (resized).jpgHere's it with a few accent flame lights near the pop bumper.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vFKj54RbxK94KwRh8
Not sure I care for it much, might move them around.
Quoted from PinJim:Happy day here. Picked this up yesterday, set it up today. Man, it’s gonna take some time to figure this one out. I assume it’s much deeper than say, TZ? Can’t wait to log some hours on it![quoted image]
Wooo, welcome. Yes, maybe the deepest game I've played, close with JJPOTC.
Quoted from PinJim:JJPOTC was a contender for me. There is a JJPOTC CE at Zanzabar in Louisville, close to where I live. I put in a few hours on it and man....what a game! Wish LEs were more plentiful. I have a feeling they’ll go up in price, not down...
LEs are basically unobtanium. Some SE's around and my feeling (along with the general consensus in the POTC threads) is that if you want a POTC get the SE if you can. Jury is out as to if they will make any more with Wonka on the line. The most important parts of the LE can be added or modded.
Quoted from LTG:There is a connector near the monkey magnet in the rear of the playfield. The manual has the I/O board pinouts. You can download the manual from jerseyjackpinball.com - Support - Downloads.
LTG : )
I used to ask a lot of these questions too, until Lloyd kept referring me to the manual and then I realized, yes... the manual has almost everything you need. Sometimes it was harder to find specifics but if I used the bookmarks and then skimmed a bit, sure enough it's all there. Now I just have the PDFs of the JJP manuals I need on my desktop, mostly always open in my PDF reader.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Correct, no lane change (edit: during the skill shot). but you dont want to bother with that any way . You can short plunge and hit the witch, or whichever "BALL" standup is lit, or the skill shot between the pops (those will all payoff much bigger). For me, on my first ball i skip all that and hard plunge to get into the pops (so i can try to start a haunted mode) however, I am admittedly not a very good WOZ player. lol.
I've been working on the haunted skill shot. I get it once every few shots so it seems to pay off. Otherwise I go witch, I have never gotten "BALL" skillshot.
Quoted from chalkup8:Only got it a few times on more. It’s an extremely late flip for 10K points .
I’m really enjoying the Horse of a different Color challenge . I’ve had 6 horses on the bottom left of the screen but not 7.
I’m still learning how it all works. All the same Color horse or all different colours to progress to 5 horses. The cow and the red horses are the most valuable from what I can tell.The chameleon horse is wild obviously but of how much value I do not know.
I JUST got it.. this thread got me wanting to try it out more. It was accidental, I mean I was going for it but didn't even see what letter I needed, just trying to get the shot.
I have no idea how the horses work, I need to look in to that. I just shoot the shots I only just started getting the munchkin loop enough times, lol.
Quoted from Nokoro:Collecting HOADC is one of the most powerful things you can do in a game because it multiplies your Munchkin mode points if you collect successfully. It is a very difficult shot since it can be so powerful. Just try stacking something like Munchkin frenzy with a crystal ball multiplier and a multiball and have the Munchkin multiplier active as well. Your bonus will be insane. (The Munchkin mode awards are collected during the bonus phase.). Just don’t tilt or it all goes away. I had a 400,000 point bonus once. I think that was the most I’ve ever collected.
Makes sense. I love the basic stacking of multiball and crystal ball, combine that with the munchkin and it's a hoot. Would be nice to have another to add on, so HOADC is now on my list to complete.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:I love my WOZ and Dialed in CE so much Im going to get POTC now. But I only have room for one more pin, what u guys think get POTC or wait for toy story?
If TS ends up being on par with Wonka I would go POTC. That was the choice I made in almost the exact same spot, POTC over Wonka.
Quoted from pinballinreno:In my opinion. Get black knight Sof.
I just unboxed an LE.
Man what a game.
It's a William's game through and through.
Does not in any way play like a stern.
Really an amazing game.
Are you suggesting it is on part with the JJP games posted?
Quoted from pinballinreno:It better than JJP POTC and Wonka.
Probably the best stern ever made.
Probably because it's a Williams game lol.
Great innovation and use of mechanical locks.
Great use of the Knight, you really feel the battle is real.
Great use and integration of the LCD screen.
Deep immersive gamrplay.
It's a winner.
Wow... can't wait to play it then. So many people love POTC, would be interesting to see what you think is a better game.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Play an LE, I was impressed with the build quality and features.
Plus it still felt like black knight only better on so many levels.
I was never a fan, I'm a DMD-era guy so that's a bit of a tough sell, but I'm interested in what Stern has done as I like many of their newer games.
Quoted from PinJim:My castle playfield flipper is rubbing the castle wall. Anyone else seen this? The flipper is weak too. I’m guessing I’ll need to remove the castle playfield to see what’s going on underneath it. Ugh....[quoted image][quoted image]
Ironically that was one piece I didn't remove in my recent teardown. I would assume there is nothing to see on the flipper itself, I doubt the bushing is worn enough that the position of the flipper changed. I'd remove that piece of wall and see if it is mounted properly or if I can be moved slightly.
Quoted from LTG:I think he is worried about where it is cracked.
LTG : )
Ayup. Didn't you know Joseph is a flipper assembly master now?
Not sure the method used above but here is what I did for the winky lightup target switch, just updated my lighting development thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/documenting-custom-woz-lighting-upgrade-kit#post-5018064
Quoted from mountaingamer:Ok WOZ fans - here’s a install video of my lighted Winkie mod mod. Again, the lighted Winkie target is awesome, but being lit up all the time - even when the target is down just doesn’t feel factory. It’s pretty simple if you can solder and shop a pin, and fully reversible back to stock.
Nice! I actually don't have the proper mount for the switch in my game so I didn't think of that. I finally have the right pieces to mount the original switch properly.
Quoted from mountaingamer:Thanks Harry - you motivated me dude! Next up is attacking the starmap backboard on Pirates.
HA... already in process
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/would-anyone-be-interested-in-replacement-star-map-plastic-for-jjpotc
Waiting on test parts to be delivered.
Weird, two WoZ here right now and I've had many castle door issues but never any witch issues. Similar situation, switch fine tuning.
Quoted from fnosm:I feel your pain. Someone needs to redesign this.
I ended up redesigning the castle door switch triggers. They were just geometrically designed in a weird way that caused them to take way more pressure to close than needed. In fact, the switches used were probably a bad choice and the position was definitely poor. With some simple tweaks to layout I reduced the pressure needed by a lot and made it much easier to adjust the door springs properly.
I've replaced some parts on the witch but not touched the switches. Wondering if there is a simple fix that can help relocate those switches in a way that will allow for easier setup/triggering. I can take a look if no one else does.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I wonder if you can retrofit optos like on the YBR edition.
With the witch or castle doors? They are basic micro switches on the castle doors so if you can send the same signal with optos (which I have no idea) then it would seem possible. I wonder if the overall mech has changed to accomodate, maybe we can get a pic from someone (fat chance, taking off the Castle PF is a pain). I thought the new design was one door, as well. So likely it all changed.
I didn't ever see a video of the color changing LED in the coin door, here it is:
I also tried some different colors in my POTC door:
Blue spot compared with OEM
0530191531 (resized).jpg
Blue spot with brighter blue spot
0530191532 (resized).jpg
Blue spot with green spot
0530191533 (resized).jpg
Blue spot with bright white spot
0530191536 (resized).jpg
OEM with bright white
0530191536a (resized).jpg
OEM with bright purple
0530191537 (resized).jpg
0530191539 (resized).jpg
Quoted from PinJim:I dedicated another 30 minutes to the witch switches tonight. Here’s what I did.
First, I bent the brackets back into their original condition. Then I loosened the switch plate nuts and played in switch test mode a bit. More or less, the switches did not default to closed all of the time, even with the switch plates as close to the target plate as possible. It’s as though the target plate doesn’t rest in a consistent position.
Next, I bent the switch arms a bit. Back into switch test mode. Even after bending the arms, I can’t get it dialed in. I observed the target plate actuator arms when using a ball to push on the playfield side of the target plate, and they actually push on the target switches, as opposed to opening them. And then sometimes they would open but never close the switches. Frustrating. So in short, the whole system seems inconsistent.
I suppose the situation is better, but not right. I played a few games, sipped some burbon, and the switch target registered about half of the hits. That’s about 50% below my expectations. Ha.
Has anyone made theirs more reliable? I’m an engineer at heart so I want it to be 100%. I’m losing faith. I don’t want it t be a deal killer with me and the game, but it factors into things. Short of that switch, the game is bad ass. But it bothers me...
Anyone else got theirs working better than 50%?
How are the springs? Have you tried stretching them out or getting new one? Maybe they are too collapsed.
I know the mechanism is different but the spring is the crux of the situation with the castle doors. Even if I take the springs that JJP supplied me new, the switches they supplied me new and using new motors they supplied me the doors were FAR from even working. I had to tweak and tweak to get them to work properly. There isn't even an adjustment for the switch position there like there is on the witch. There has to be enough tension in the spring to close the door fully and overcome the switch pressure but slack enough that the motor can overcome the spring tension to open the door. Oddly, the motors aren't that strong and so there is a very narrow margin in which they will actually open.
Quoted from darkryder:I got around to installing the PinGraffix side art decals on my RR yesterday. Super nice mod, though a bit nerve racking to install and need to be very careful not to damage them. This is still the prettiest game out there IMO.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Wow those do look nice. I have ZERO confidence I would not destroy them.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Pull the playfield out, much easier to install them.
It's not that, it's the repeated pulling out of the playfield. I've hit the sides of my cabinet too many times with the playfield to know those would stay looking good. At least with the black sides I can touch it up. I am going to install some felt on the sides of my playfield to see how that works out, so maybe with some protection it might be ok. I love the look.
Anyone have some mirror blade shots?
Quoted from PinJim:Another question. The lights circled below are off in color from the rest of the lights - at least during game play. You can somewhat see it in the picture, but it's more pronounced in person. What's odd is that they are fine if I illuminate them in diagnostics. It's just during game play. Like they aren't rendering the mixing of colors like the rest of the lights.
Is this normal, or (I'm guessing) something's wrong with my machine?[quoted image]
They are the proper color in the LED test for all colors? (W, R, G, B)
Which LED board version do you have?
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:These things rule, slap em on and lift the playfield to your heart's content!
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
How exactly do those work? They look temporary (like you put them there when you lift the playfield?). And the magnets are there just to hold them in place while you do work on the playfield? Interesting..
Quoted from mountaingamer:They can rub but haven’t scratched yet[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice, I was wondering what they looked like on WOZ. I like the other blades better
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:Pretty much exactly like that
Thanks. Considering those for sure. Especially since I'm considering the pingraffix.
Quoted from mountaingamer:That was from my ECLE - they look way better on the RR
HAH... I just played YBR a bunch at the NW Pin Show and they look awesome. I have them in my cart... of course pingraffix has stuff for other games I own so now I am contemplating spending more of my retirement funds lol.
Does anyone know the size of the fan in the side of the CPU case? Or have a suggestion on a replacement on Amazon? That thing is loud as heck. Hard to get a tape measure down there.
Ok... first of all, how do you find these things so quickly? I searched and couldn't find it, maybe I'm not proficient at searching here.
Second.. did you find any posts where someone did the fan replacement? I was hoping maybe someone had good results with a fan, I saw some "I like these fans" but not where someone actually did it. I guess I'll get just something with similar CFM and low DBs.
Quoted from f3honda4me:Searching the whole forum turned up this
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/quieting-down-a-woz-ecle-machine
Of course it's @vireland, many thanks. That's exactly what I needed, fans ordered.
Quoted from adamross:Ok so I fixed the bigger lighting issue I had, but now this has popped up. Parts of my lower PF lights are out such as slings and lanes.[quoted image]
Swap one of the tiny GI boards from a working light to one of the non-working ones. Quick and dirty test to see if it is the board itself. As much as JJP says the 2.0 system is bulletproof I just got a RR with several bad/failing GI boards.
Quoted from LTG:The older LED boards, not the newer 2.0 system.
LTG : )
The RR I just got had 5 or so bad GI boards (two were flickering in different colors, three were pink when they should be white). I get it that the 2.0 system is much better than the 5v but bulletproof it is not.
Quoted from adol75:Do you have an RR ? I cant figure if the one for the screen will fit.
I do, actually have a SE and RR here right now. I only was concerned about the CPU case fan as it seems like the one that sounds like a jet right now but once that is done maybe I'll notice the screen one. I'll see what happens. Can always return one to Amazon.
Quoted from Pinballomatic:Nothing is exactly bulletproof, granted, but the failure rate on all iterations of what is essentially the woz 2.0 light board system is a tiny fraction of what it was on the original system. No getting around that when push comes to shove.
Well... I mean.. maybe that *sounds* like a good "pro" argument, but maybe that just means the non 2.0 systems really, really sucked. Without the public knowing the actual failure rate of either it's impossible to make an opinion. 80% failure rate is better than 90%... but...
What I will say is that replacing a $5 GI board is a lot more palatable than a $30 one. At that price it's getting close to LED bulb prices. Granted, I haven't had to replace any of the LED bulbs I've installed in other games but that's also not a scientific datapoint.
Quoted from LTG:Really ?
I've got four games with that system, 12 hours a day in commercial use. And the only board failure I've had so far was on Hobbit when the drop target mech above it had a bent part which shorted the board below it, not the boards fault.
Seems pretty good to me.
LTG : )
Well, like I said, in a RR that isn't all that old I had to replace 5 GI boards and not all for the same failure/apparent issue. That was pretty surprising. Other boards that have some issue, I didn't replace yet, aren't the same hue as the rest. Maybe that means they are on the way out, maybe that's just not great QC, I don't know. For someone anal and nitpicky it's annoying so I'll probably just replace and keep them as spares. You will have way more data points and official knowledge of this than I, so it's only my skewed experience.
I'm definitely glad to know the JJP games I now own have the newer system so I don't have to deal with trying to nurse along the older ones.
Quoted from LTG:Do you have the 2.0 system in your game ?
LTG : )
The RR has 2.0, the SE has 5v. The 5 boards I replaced were in the RR. I ended up buying a complete spare set of used boards for the SE because I needed to replace WOZ2.
Quoted from f3honda4me:Did you try reinstalling the latest update? Wasn’t that a routed pin?
I have not. I will do that, thanks. It wasn't routed, per say, but was in an arcade and has a lot of plays, yes.
Quoted from LTG:Are you sure it's 2.0 ? B.A.G. and Hub boards, bunch of blue ethernet cables running around the underside of the playfield, hooking up the LED boards.
I'm asking to help me learn, I haven't heard of any one 2.0 game losing 5 GI boards. Thank you for your help.
LTG : )
100% ... like I said, I have two WOZ machines right now so the side by side comparison is easy to see. You and some others helped me troubleshoot lights on my SE so I'm somewhat intimately familiar with the 5v system. The RR definitely has the 2.0 system, CAT5 cables, etc.
I made a post about it (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-rr-questions-20-gi-lighting-touch-up-paint-) and here is an album with videos showing the pink and flickering color issues: https://photos.app.goo.gl/roFBtFmU9DNdPsVF6
It was easy to swap the GI boards around and see that it was the board that failed and not something with the wiring or chain of boards, etc. I still have the failed boards, happy to send them to you if you want to check them out. Since they are so cheap comparatively I wasn't so concerned but just surprised that the 2.0 system had issues on this game.
Quoted from mountaingamer:Was your 75th built 2.0 or upgraded? I believe 12/15/2016 was the day that WOZ converted to 2.0 on the line, anything built prior with 2.0 was upgraded.
I believe it came with 2.0 and was built after that date, sometime in 2017 I'm fairly sure I recall from the backbox.
Quoted from f3honda4me:A few options here
https://lermods.com/t/wizard-of-oz-pinball-mods
Or if you want to do custom: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/documenting-custom-woz-lighting-upgrade-kit
Quoted from Nokoro:When I got my 2.0 kit, two of the new boards were bad. One of the large boards and one of the GI ones. Got replacements and everything has been fine. But, it just goes to show that anything can happen.
By contrast, I’ve had my DI for a bit over a year and never had a problem with any of the lights. Harry, if you have had multiple issues, that is some extreme bad luck. Of course, the pin was routed so it may have seen some heavy play, but it is surprising that you have had so many issues.
I had one bad large board in my SE (WOZ2) and one or two bad GI boards on the 5v system, I've been well made aware of the issues with the 5v system
And probably 8 or so GI boards in the RR 2.0 system that are bad or going bad. Not sure if there was just a bad batch, if the GI boards are more susceptible to issues, etc... but I'm not suggesting there is anything systemically wrong. Definitely had some use.
I must just be unlucky. LTG after replacing the GI's that were obviously an issue here is what I see now in white test mode. The differences in lighting you see in the photos (with one light being more yellow and another being more blue) are how they look in person. You can see in the bottom of the playfield view that the bottom right corner of several lights are much more beige/pink than the rest. If you look at the one pic that has the side of the castle playfield in it you can see two lights, one is yellowish and one is blueish. Like I said, I am going to live with this for now, I guess. I have 5 more GI boards new but I am going to wait and see what happens.
Oh, and it isn't a "chaining" thing or wiring. If I swap boards around the color follows them, meaning it's the board.
Quoted from mjfisher:Thanks for all the info on 2.0 - Harry I’d be curious to know how many plays your machine has had. It would be a worry if it’s only had a couple of thousand I guess but I’d be less concerned if it’s had a heap of plays. I’d be getting a 2.0 kit for a home use machine. Thanks a lot.
22k plays and 3/24/17 build date. Personally, if I were keeping my SE with the 5v boards I would have done the conversion to 2.0. I actually ordered the kit and then happenstance I got the RR and cancelled the order and found a used set of boards to fix my 5v issues.
Yellowish
0602192009d (resized).jpg
0602192009b (resized).jpg
Blueish
0602192009c (resized).jpg
0602192009a (resized).jpg
Castle playfield one yelloish one blueish
0602192010 (resized).jpg
Bottom right has a concentration of yelloish lights, among others
0602192010b (resized).jpg
0602192010a (resized).jpg
Quoted from LTG:You might talk to Frank Becker the service manage, or Eric that designed the system, about this. I wonder if something else is going on or happened in the games past, that is causing this. Yours is the only one I know of with continuing issues.
LTG : )
I actually talked to Frank when I ordered the GI boards. Shannan forwarded my request to him because she knew I had the 5v system in my SE and didn't know I had a RR with the 2.0 system so they were confused as to why I was ordering 2.0 GI boards. He didn't seem that concerned that I had to replace so many boards, but I'm happy to shoot him an email.
Just to be clear, I *just* got the RR so there were not really continuing issues, just these GI issues I discovered once I got the game. If the replacement boards solve the issue then it's $5 well spent on each.
Edit - Frank has been emailed the details.
Quoted from DCFAN:Are you sure the LEDs are not simply different model numbers? The color of the white varies between different model numbers of the kingbrite leds.
Well... I do know that when I spoke with Frank he did say that the part number on my boards was superseded by a newer part. So if that is what you are referring to, it sounds like that could be true. Nothing was said to me that the colors might be different. At the same time, the older boards which I haven't replaced aren't all the same color of white either, so it's definitely not an issue with one part number versus another. I'm still not that overly concerned unless the color difference is an indication of a future issue. $5 for a replacement board is palatable.
Quoted from adamross:Did all the RR editions come with 2.0 lighting?
Quoted from mountaingamer:Was your 75th built 2.0 or upgraded? I believe 12/15/2016 was the day that WOZ converted to 2.0 on the line, anything built prior with 2.0 was upgraded.
Quoted from Nokoro:Those don't look like board failures to me such that the board once worked, and it no longer does. Unless you are saying that is what happened. Rather, they look like the lights themselves are slightly off, perhaps a slight defect in manufacture. So, I'm not sure this says anything about the longevity of the 2.0 system. It might just say that there was a bad batch of boards out there.
If a board worked and no longer does, what do you call that? I'm not sure what you're trying to differentiate here. If you're saying the different hues is not a failure, I will agree there.. they haven't failed, but they aren't working correctly or 100%. It's just annoying now, enough that I'll probably spend the money to replace all of the GI boards.
These are the ones that unquestionably failed: https://photos.app.goo.gl/roFBtFmU9DNdPsVF6
I don't know, I sort of expect that all lights have the same hue from the same manufacturer. If the boards change color over time, that seems like an issue. If they are different batches that have different hues, issue. It's not a world hunger type issue but if I bought the same bulbs from Comet and some were one hue and some another they would make it right, I know this as a fact. I haven't known LEDs to change color/hues over time but I have no specific knowledge on this.
Quoted from mountaingamer:Harry got it off route - who knows how long it was on and if the light intensity was set to high.... who knows
Why would some boards be one color and some be another? Why would intensity matter in that case and why would there be an intensity option if it will ruin boards? Why should it matter how long it was on, weren't all boards on for the same amount of time? Why would some boards flicker and display pink when it was a white LED test?
Tell me what exactly an owner could have done to create these problems. Even in somewhat continual use shouldn't these last longer than a few years?
Quoted from Aflacjack:I know. The game was in my home until Dec 2017. At that point it was on 5-6 hrs a day for 6 days a week max. Also, more than half of the plays are started games and never played. The light intensity was never changed from the factory settings. Pinstadium lights were added for additional lighting.
This guy knows
Quoted from adol75:Naive question (I never had to touch the doors). What are the odds that the right door uses the same screws as the other doors ?
To hold the door to the post? They all use the same screws. It's a M6 or M8 I believe, like a few mm long. I ordered them from JJP since I didn't know the specs, but then someone posted them here (maybe LTG).
Quoted from Damien:I figured that would be the answer.
Not sure I want to run that risk. Maybe I'll hold off for a later build with the 2.0 upgrade.
If the price accommodates $800 and your time to install, then it's a good deal. Otherwise don't bother.
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:Fellas, any ideas please what’s wrong with my crystal ball?... I bought my Pinball about 3 weeks ago(I’m new in your Club and this is my 1st JJP), sometimes while playing the game the crystal ball is fixed by itself, but usually I just have to restart the game to fix that.
Thank you.[quoted image]
Welcome
Try re-seating the connector on the back of the CB.
A few questions to my fellow OZ citizens:
1. What causes the glass rails to be so tight it is hard to get the glass in or out? Is it simply bending of the metal side rail channels?
2. Causes for the crystal ball not to work? I reseated the connector and I can see a very dim "skill shot" arrow in it (all the time) but nothing else.
3. Should HOADC be collected on a ball launch (meaning the HOADC is collected when you launch a ball after you lock one)
Thanks!
Looks like the glass tightness is a known issue.. took some searching to find this buried but:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pdi-glass-doesnt-fit-in-wozle#post-2020580
I literally can barely get mine out... I have to plant my hands on it and slide as hard as I can to get it started. I am going to try and bit of graphite dry lube in the channels and see if that frees it up at all. Maybe some wax?
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Read up, and google it.
I recently got a sheet of glass and cut the shit out of my right hand reaching and pulling glass out of a machine. It was one day old, had just unwrapped it.
My point... I went to google and started the research of sanding the edges of the glass. About an hour later its very safe now. With the right sanding block wearing gloves and super high greet sandpaper a little water and I was able to polish all 4 edges. During the process i was easily able to get a 16th narrower.
You may be able to do the same and remove just enough on both sides to make it easier.
You could also take it to a glass shop and tell them you need it sanded on both long sides and fix it.
Easy peasy.
Ah man... sounds fun! The wax helped a bit. I'll think about the sanding or glass shop.
LTG I just don't have good luck with JJP lighting. Notice anything wrong in the pic?
Been replacing the GI boards on my RR 2.0 as some were flickering, wrong shade of white, etc. I was getting close to done, did about 10 boards maybe. Went in to the test today to finish up and low and behold one of the old boards is now the wrong color. I had a little PTSD as this is the issue I was battling on my SE 5v system. Luckily, I know how much easier the 2.0 system is to work on. So, replaced the board and it didn't work at all... worried that it might be the connector or the "source" board for that smaller board I tried another new board and it worked. So even one of the new boards didn't work.
I think I'm going to try reseating the SD card in my crystal ball. I still have the "SKILL SHOT" graphic showing and that is all.
In other news my lighting work is basically done. I added a dimmer to the castle spotlight so I could control that independently as the 12v LED I wanted to use was too bright. It also has flashing effects and whatnot, but no need for those. I added another spot to the left of the haunted forest to give a more even light (I hate having that one spot so close but there aren't many options). Last thing I think I want to do is add a separate RGB dimmer for the trough versus the backboard, want to mix in different colors. I put on the fluorescent green plastic protectors, not sure if I am a fan yet.. the GI is just too dim there already for me. Side art blades installed too. I'd like to get the tornado lit up.. I have an idea for where to place the light but I really wanted it activated by the spinning house. I have an idea for that too, unless someone has done it? My phone makes everything look way more purple than it does and way more bright..
Video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/LY8hchY6SP7oozLx5
0616192006 (resized).jpg0616192006a (resized).jpg0616192006b (resized).jpg
And THIS is how you work on a game!
0616191840 (resized).jpg
I've ordered some. 2 pin D connector I think, I'll find the part number. .093 pin I believe.
Actually, if you look at my post history I have a WoZ lighting mod thread. Has all the parts in there I think. On mobile, too hard to look right now.
... ah nevermind I see you're already there. I'm fairly sure those are what I used, but I'll confirm
Quoted from Dr-pin:Just check what the voltage is on the motor spinning the house. If it's twelve or five volts just parallell-couple a led highlighting the twister. If it's more volts, just serial couple a resistor in that led-parallell line.
The extra load on the board feeding should be negligable.
Btw i think your game looks great. Well done.
Interesting, I didn't think to tap in to that. I'll definitely check out the voltage!
Thanks
Does anyone know if this is the same as the flipper for the munchkin playfield? https://www.pinballlife.com/tspp-upper-playfield-yellow-mini-flipper-bat.html
Quoted from Soulrider911:@harryhoudini believe its just a 2" mini flipper, that particular one has the long shaft you don't want that, its same as the Black Pearl flipper:
https://www.pinballlife.com/2-yellow-mini-flipper-bat-and-shaft-assembly.html
It's definitely longer than normal. It goes all the way down through the main playfield, the coil is not under the munchkin playfield.
Quoted from Pinballomatic:Should be yes Sir
Many thanks.. mine is all marred from the old rubber that was on it and what self respecting pinball owner isn't anal about that? Sadly, doesn't have the JJP logo on it... maybe I'll ask Shannan what the cost is and get the green LED strip as well.
Quoted from mavantix:Contact JJP and see if they’ll do you better in the shipping...that seems high for a part that fits in USPS envelope.
My theories for its common failure are:
1. The older design of the LED strip didn’t have heat shrink on the far end of the LED strip, and thus possibly prone to “grounding/shorting out” on the metal U channel it sits in..
2. It’s confined location builds up too much heat in the somewhat sensitive LEDs themselves, not allowing adequate airflow for cooling.
Either way, replacing it will most likely fix your issue. If you do buy a strip of green LEDs, you’ll have a lifetime supply of fixes. If I recall correctly it’s only 3 LEDs on the strip!
Last time I asked about the online shipping versus directly quoted shipping I believe I was told it was the same, but I'll confirm.
I have a roll of RGB strips that can be set to any one color without a controller (just wire up DC+ and then - to whatever color RGB you want). So, I already have the stuff... my strip doesn't have the waterproof coating which probably has two repercussions.. one, less protection from the head sitting on top of it and two, might not get as hot since that stuff traps heat and so it might last longer. Either way, like you said, the stuff is cheap compared to how much is needed.
Quoted from Soulrider911:Thank you ordered 4 got a spare it seems the little GI ones are the most common to go out?
Yup
Quoted from FLpinball:Greetings! Recent new(and happy) owner here! Can anyone tell me where I get get mirror blades? Best, Charlie
Regular, black and gold
https://www.pinballdecals.com/MirrorBladesPage.html
Quoted from sonambulo:Hi guys, still thinking in joining the club buying an ECLE version. All I know it has 7,5 boards (don't know if buffered or unbuffered).
It's a 2/2014 build, any known issues on machines born this date?
Anything not 2.0 is likely to have issues sometime. Those sound fairly stable for all the v1 options. As long as you are ok with doing the 2.0 update at some point.
Quoted from Nokoro:Mine were at the ends of the power harness connecting the purple and black wires on the old lighting system. The 2.0 system doesn’t have them.
I have both systems in my house right now, I'll go confirm. Ironically both playfields are up.
Sigh... I'll post here because it's cool. So, my crystal ball display is having issues. That lead me to 4D systems, the company that makes the display. I found a product of theirs called uTOLED-20-G2 (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/4D-Systems/uTOLED-20-G2/?qs=wBxGIkmvhAol5Vn9
YpLg%3D%3D&gclid=CNvfr92vs7wCFYNi7Aodr04A7g) which is almost exactly the same kind of display but it's transparent. So you can just pop in an SD card and it will display the video, no other parts needed.
Someone was actually making a real TOLED display! I had no idea. Well, apparently they no longer make it and I can't find anyone else who is. I can't believe this isn't used in more places or available from other manufacturers. I asked 4D, they have no plans to make any more. I searched far and wide for other options. I've found a few that are either much smaller, dumb displays or single color.
Well, I thought it would be HELLA cool to replace the OZ head with this display and use some video clips (like the CB) to hide and show the the head animation. It would have been a huge upgrade to that ugly piece of etched plastic and look pretty magical. Sadly, there doesn't seem to be any other real options on the market and no easy way to make one.
I was looking into a pepper's ghost effect but I don't think there is enough space or good of enough viewing angle to do it. I looked in to pico projectors, but again I don't think there is enough room or angle.
Oh well, would have be awesome.
Quoted from JoshODBrown:One more observation I have made.. I seem to recall that the flippers on the upper playfields would not flip unless the ball was detected as being up there. on my game they always flip when the ball is on the main playfield. I took to youtube to see different videos of the game in action and have seen variations of this. In an IE Pinball video on version 5.05 of the game from a few years back, the upper playfield flippers only seem to activate when the twister mode or castle rescue modes are active. In a newer video from the last few months where some guys are playing a freshly unboxed Yellow Brick Road edition of the game, the upper playfield flippers are always active.
Is this a setting somewhere, or did they change something in the software that keeps them flipping all the time?
Edit: After a little more digging for video, it seems it only disabled them during TOTO and Theres no place Like Home. Really weird, I could have sworn they were disabled until you got the ball up there.
I've played on a wide variety of code base eras and all versions of the game (well, except the "automated" emerald green) and I don't ever recall the flippers not flipping (except TOTO and TNPLH, if you say that is the case... I didn't even think about that).
Quoted from oropuro:How difficult is switching out the light boards or upgrading to the 2.0 ones? Is it $800 and 40 hours of work or switching things out easy ?
Most people report a weekend of work. I've done a pretty fair amount of work on WOZ and read the install guide and I'd say if you are handy it looks like it isn't that big of a deal. I mean, it is literally removing the old boards and installing the new ones (and running wires). It's all pretty plug and play. If you take your time, run the wires cleanly and zip tie stuff then probably a weekend is a good, relaxed timeline. I was estimating I could get it done in a day if I wanted.
Quoted from adol75:My next week end of work is to install silent fans, to me it’s a much bigger issue than led failing that actually don’t fail much.
But the noise, urgh I cant take it anymore !
I did just the CPU case fan and it was amazing. Btw, if you order any standard fan forget about splicing it in to the wiring. The mobo has headers for fans built in. My fan came with an extension that let it reach the mobo no problem.
Edit - here is the fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NEMG62M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
Just remove the old one and force the plug from the new fan through the rubber grommet on the PC case. I lubed it up a bit with some water because it was tight. Then use the extension to make it to the motherboard.
Just arrived on my front porch. My machine will live on forever!!
I am guessing these have cured long enough I am going to spray on some Spray Max 2X gloss and buff the crap out of them and store them away, lol. Some day I'll do the swap. Can't wait to have shiny, buttery smooth playfields. My main playfield is dull and I know the only way I'm getting it back is to machine polish it, so might as well just do the swap. My munchkin playfield got hit with too many airballs so it's beat up, has cliffy on it now. One day my game will be pristine!
0701191643 (resized).jpgQuoted from apinballwiz:Where did you get these Harry? Been thinking about getting a spare Munchkinland playfield for my game.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/80795
I bought ones that weren't cleared again but for $800 you can't go wrong. There have been a few on ebay but only the main playfield and castle, never have seen the munchkin for sale.
My original translucent winky target hasn't broken.
The target is made by pinballmods.com I believe.
Quoted from wtatumjr:I'd just use what you have until it breaks. The early Mezel's seemed to be 3d printed and you can see and feel fine lines on the part that sticks under the playfield. I think Mezel fixed this but not sure. The Indy's seem to be molded or cut from a polycarbonate and have no horizontal flat lines anywhere.
Mezel uses the pinballmods.com one now. Injection, I believe. Mine is definitely not 3d.
FYI lighting upgrades
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/documenting-custom-woz-lighting-upgrade-kit
Quoted from wtatumjr:I've been absent for a while but anyone add the Pinstadium lights? What do you think?
They were on a recent game I bought, I also removed them. Too even/bright of a light for a game that should have some dark areas. I built my own system but I think I'll list it for sale if anyone is interested. It's pretty inexpensive.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/documenting-custom-woz-lighting-upgrade-kit
Quoted from JoshODBrown:My crystal ball is also wonky.. Will work sometimes, but often gets frozen on the Skillshot clip and stays frozen on that image until you restart the machine. Not sure if it's better to just order a new screen, or try cleaning up the current screen and reseating everything, or swapping the card, etc? Any thoughts on this from anyone who had it freeze up?
That is the same issue I had (just posted about it). I had another WOZ to swap with and I deduced it down to the screen itself, which is why I bought that new one. I need to go swap it in and test and confirm, so I'll let you know. It seems the screen has some issue where it can't read the video files or something. I swapped SD cards, screens, games, etc. so it seemed like it was isolated to the one screen itself.
Quoted from JoshODBrown:duplicate
Click the little trash can icon near the bottom left of the post.
ELCEs are pretty rare, I've seen them easily hit $9000 but depending on the buyer could be more for pristine. If it has the 7.5v boards then maybe take a bit off. RR's go for around $8k depending on use. I'd say there is a range up and down for both models of $1k or so.
Quoted from cscmtp:I had someone contact me about mine but was looking to spend low 7's, I was thinking closer to $8k but wanted to get some opinions.
Since it's not me buying definitely don't sell for that low. $8k I would say should be the lowest, but honestly $8500 is very reasonable for a game in that condition. Less if it has 7.5v boards sure, but even then those are the best non 2.0 boards to have it sounds like. I've been seeing RRs go for $8500.
Quoted from Daditude:I got my acronyms confuused. There seem to be a lot of different woz pins.
Standard, ECLE, YBR, RR...and i heard there are "green" editions. Any others?
That's correct. The green edition is special and only sold by Automated, I believe.
In case someone here might be able to help, can't get a new crystal ball screen working: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-do-i-need-to-make-a-new-crystal-ball-screen-work
Quoted from pinballinreno:If a factory screen wont work.
I'd suspect the cable or contacts on either end.
Maybe, just maybe a bad or corrupt sdcard.
Most of the problems have been bad cables and loose cards.
Not that.
Screen from another (SE) WOZ works in my RR. SD cards from either screen (bad and good) work in that good (SE) screen. So I know that everything else in the RR machine aside from the screen is ok.
I bought a new screen (not from JJP, because they don't even produce it.. it's made by 4D Systems). I figured if I swapped in the SD card from the old screen it would be golden (assuming all the firmware/coding to run the proper video at the proper signal was on the SD card but apparently that isn't the case). The issue was the bad screen (RR) was stuck on "SKILL" most of the time. I even restored the image of the "good" (SE) SD card (the one from the screen that originally worked from my other WOZ) to the "bad" (again, I believe the card is fine) screen SD card. Both SD cards worked in the "good" SE screen so it did not seem to be the SD card. But putting the SD card in the brand new screen all I get is the manufacturer scroll of model, serial, etc. No videos from the SD card play at all. So I assume there is some firmware/programming needed to flash on to that device.
Quoted from Pinballomatic:If you buy an OLED screen from JJP you can get a new programmed card to go with it.
If the card works, why do I need a screen from jjp? Does the screen have unique programming or firmware installed on it? If so, how can I get that? I should be able to install a replacement not from jjp.
Quoted from Daditude:2 questions:
1) how do i know if i have 2.0 boards? Sorry, im a newb as far as woz goes.
2) what mods do you have on your woz?
I did a custom lighting kit. Gouvea smoke and monkey mods. Custom balloon flame light. Lighted winky. Cliffys. Neon plastic protectors. Color anodized nuts. Titan color matched rubbers.
I think that's it.
You guys are killing me. I wanted an ECLE so badly but could only find a RR at the time. If it didn't greatly affect the value I'd love to combine a RR and ECLE. But, I should mention I'm working on apron art for the RR (one of the only things I feel like was cheaped out here). I also had a SE direct print and it was cool but not a huge difference from the rad cals. I think the rad cals are probably "tougher" than the print, maybe this has been discussed elsewhere. They seem like an upgrade to POTC so I would assume they are somewhat better? Either way, both look awesome.
If anyone is interested I posted my mega WOZ lighting kit for sale. It has more lighting than any other kit, full RGB independent control of the backboard and trough lighting, double illuminated trough lighting for even brighter options, fully dimmable LED strips and a selection of white and purple bulbs to adjust the spotlights to your liking. Fully plug and play, remove a few nuts, run a few wires, etc. Has the option for the flickering flame in the TNPLH hot air balloon as well.
Flickering flame balloon mod
https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/wizard-of-oz-flickering-flame-hot-air-balloon-jersey-jack-pinball
If anyone is interested I posted my mega WOZ lighting kit for sale. It has more lighting than any other kit, full RGB independent control of the backboard and trough lighting, double illuminated trough lighting for even brighter options, fully dimmable LED strips and a selection of white and purple bulbs to adjust the spotlights to your liking. Fully plug and play, remove a few nuts, run a few wires, etc. Has the option for the flickering flame in the TNPLH hot air balloon as well.
https://pinballmods.co/WOZ-mega-lighting-upgrade-kit-jjp
Flickering flame balloon mod
https://pinballmods.co/WOZ-flickering-flame-balloon-JJP
Pinstadium blows there lighting on this way out. Kills the fact that there are supposed to be darker areas. I think 7 spots does it. I'm actually working on spotlight hiders. Stay tuned.
Quoted from mavantix:Are you counting the factory spots in that 7 count?
No. 7 additional spots.
2 on each sling, 2 to the bottom right of the haunted forest and one to the left of the crystal ball.
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:It is a Translite Eric.
Knowing that the YBR it is not a Collector’s, I must say that honestly JJP did a great job with these upgrades. So far the only thing that I did it was to put some wood look alike in that small spot to cover the white ceiling, I don’t know if all of the versions came with that white space...
[quoted image]
That's interesting! I wish someone would make a replacement for those huts. A nice molded piece that covers more of the ball lock and diverter.
We are actually working on a "lantern" design for PoTC which may be able to be adapted to WoZ. The consideration is that we are customizing how spotlights are laid out to be able to fit the socket and bulb in a smaller package. Taking some trial and error but I think we'll have something viable soon.
Quoted from bobukcat:That's a lot of ugly damn spot lights cluttering up a beautiful game IMO.
The only really visible ones are the ones on the slings. The left one by the CB is hidden and the ones in front of the forest are somewhat inconspicuous. I do agree that I wish there was a better visual solution, which I guess pin stadium fits that bill. It's pretty much what manufacturers also do these days, JJP POTC has the large spots hanging out. I want to figure out a disguise for these with something game related. We are working on shrinking down the necessary size for a spotlight "head" so we can more attractively package them. If anyone has ideas for what kind of themed element could work as a vertical mast and "boxy" head (for the bulbs) I'm open to suggestions. We are making a pirate flag for POTC near the ship which will hide a LED panel (instead of a spot) which makes it flat. We can do the same for WoZ but I really want to leave the option to replace bulbs.
Quoted from bobukcat:Wow, $11.5K and it's a translite instead of an actual backglass like the ECLE and RR have?? This hits keep coming on this version.
Does anyone know if the main castle door mech changed at all? I was hearing all over that there would be one door, but the game I played had two. I am wondering if it was engineered differently at all. I guess I could go look at the updated manual to see.
Quoted from Pinballomatic:There are optos for hit detection so that changed. There are still two double doors and the single door is now pretty much a decoration.
Nice! That would solve a lot of issues I imagine. The toughest time I had was aligning those switches and springs. Now for the million dollar question... are those easily retrofittable? Meaning are parts possibly bought to screw those in and have them work or is there more control that has to happen on the I/O that prior versions aren't setup for? I have no problems currently, but just curious.
Quoted from Pinballomatic:Good question - and by that I mean I don't really know - a little research is needed.
Cool, I figured that probably wasn't a very popular need/question. I doubt many people get as deep in to that as I did. I'm going to study the manual a bit.
I have both games. I love them both. I wouldn't hesitate to have both again and I think they compliment each other. I don't think WOZ has lost any of it's cool factor based on POTC coming out. JJP is by far my favorite manufacturer and I'd have all their games if I had room and money. You can't go wrong with either game. If I had a choice of only one, I'd get WOZ first.
Don't worry about the dimples, very common and smooth out over time. The chipping/cracking is the major issue with the game and it's still a bit up in the air as we have a few posts active right now discussing it. JJP has released both a "kit" to help with the chipping around the posts and an offer for a discounted playfield for those with chipping.
Being this is the WOZ club you'll want to move your further questions to the POTC club https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club
Quoted from chalkup8:Visible ball locks are very nice.
But as with PoTC balls physically locked doesn't always mean balls locked. But could just add some nicely integrated indicator lights
Quoted from JohnnyPinball007:Thanks for the response to my question. One more question, is there a certain build date that after that time the game is a lot better with not as many issues needing repair? I would want one with the flying monkey, and I know they did away with that with the YBR.
I don't know why the monkey was such a "problem"? Out of two WOZ machines and other common issues I never had one problem with my monkey.
As was already said, 2.0 lighting kit. But also, earlier SE playfields were made by Bader and had very bad wear issues around the pop bumpers and drop target. Just be aware of that. There are cover decals available for purchase from JJP if you end up with one of these machines. If you want a cheap WoZ an 2013 SE with minimal playfield wear that you can swap in the 2.0 kit is probably a pretty good deal these days.
Quoted from hocuslocus:Yeah I just checked em out. My fear is once I get one....
Think I'm gonna keep it at three additional spot lights, still a few dark areas... but a world better then it was. Was gonna do it on the left sling to but, I'm happy for now.
Probably the biggest complaint I get on certain games.
This is with all the lights out. Also I just installed the 2.0 kit last week, don't think it made any difference as far as brightness.
least it'll be reliable now. ( two pieces of advice, is make sure you pre-drill. I waited on connecting the bigger RGB boards until everything had power so I could check to make sure wire length was good and the LED was centered and most of the light not blocked, otherwise your going to making more holes in the playfield.)
[quoted image]
Trough lighting and backboard lighting would do a lot
Quoted from Rager170:Hey Guys,
While I am not yet an owner I am looking to pick up one of these sooner than later. Question for you owners.. in regards to cliffys for this machines, I see that there are a lot offered.
Do you guys recommend certain ones or all of them or??
I always do shooter lane stuff but I see a lot of upkick protectors and such for this also.
Curious of your thoughts. Thanks.
Get 'em all. A good amount of disassembly to install them but worth it. Especially if you are buying a used machine, good time to shop it and do rubbers as there are many hard to reach areas. But honestly, once you do the mini playfields a few times it's all cake. Just know what you are unplugging, know where the screws are and look at the manual. It's a freaking work of art.
Quoted from LTG:You've been lucky.
LTG : )
My new/used RR has some noise issues, I'm trying to figure out if it is something scraping along the backboard (like the zip tie, which I've replaced and tried to move) or something with the rod. It only happens for about 1/3 of the length. I don't consider it an issue really, I'll be happy to live with it but still trying to resolve. I'll have to put it in auto test mode and see if I can "dampen" the sound by touching any mechs or whatever to see what is vibrating. I lubed up the shaft and rod (heh) with 3-in-1 oil so the moves really smoothly. Waiting on the USB cable to see if I can program my own crystal ball screen (I'm a glutton for punishment.. but I already have the screen so why not) and then just the monkey noise. Love playing this game!
Quoted from JoshODBrown:I am also in the market to purchase a set of cliffys to install when i shop my WOZ next month. My WOZ is interesting, because it was on location for about a year and a bit, and got nearly 33,000 plays on it in that time, with no protectors! My WOZ is the 75th Ruby Red Edition, and was built in December of 2017.
While the game is in pretty good shape overall, heres what started getting some noticeable wear. I am planning to do all of the Cliffys, just because I can.
- In lanes by the slingshots where the ball drops from the habitrail coming back from the upper playfields. The right hand side was worse for wear than the left hand side. I would recommend the Universal switch slot protectors in this case. I already cleaned up the playfield and installed the switch slot protectors on mine, since this was pretty much the worst place it was worn. I don't believe these are a part of the WOZ full kit, you'd need to order them separately.
- The throne-room/Wizard saucer on the right hand side of the game just above the right outlane is starting to wear on the upper side of the hole a bit... it was not terrible, but is starting on mine (remember... 33,000 plays!). A cliffy will cover this completely and it will become a non-issue.
- Shooter lane is surprisingly in good shape for the number of plays. It has a tiny bit of wear on the left side of the lane, but the right side looks good, and barely much wear at all. I've seen plenty of Sterns with a 1/5th the plays have waaaay worse shooter lanes
- Crystal Ball VUK - Absolutely no obvious wear here at all on my game.
- Castle VUK, and Winkie drop target - No concerning wear here on mine.
- Castle Playfield. No noticeable wear on the saucer behind the castle doors, or the spot where the ball exits the castle playfield to the habitrail.
- Munchkin Playfield (upper right) - The edge of the playfield by the ramp entrance has taken a little bit of a beating from air balls, and you can see some potential for wood loss if it doesn't get a protector on it. This protector is probably one of the more important ones in the kit I would say.
- Magnets and rollover switches - Very very very minor wear on the magnet by the upper right flipper. There was a piece of mylar on mine, but I am not sure if this was factory or the previous owner installed it. Top orbit magnet by the OZ lanes has practically no wear. The Tinman, Lion, Scarecrow, and TOTO rollovers all still look fantastic and probably don't need these ones in a home use game, unless they are not leveled properly.
My story is almost exactly like yours.
Quoted from Rager170:Also, has anyone used these vs. Cliffys? Seems like they do the same with far less dismantling.. (also dont like how you have to drill the munchkin playfield for the Cliffy protector there).
https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/woz/products/woz-munchkinland-chrome-edge-protector
I only suspect, have no real info, that it is a plastic vinyl chrome coated piece. I think it looks sort of out of place.
Quoted from Pinballomatic:If you can only buy one Cliffy protector for the game, hands down that's the one to install.
Welll.... Being pragmatic about it, that playfield is much cheaper to replace than the main playfield. I'd say the throne room and winky are pretty important too.
There is no option, lol... He has to get them all!
Quoted from moonduckie78:You are correct, sir. It is a strip of chrome colored vinyl with an adhesive backing. I bought this in one of my orders, took one look at it, and threw it in my "pinball crap" bin. Bought a Cliffy for Munchkinland instead. The drilling is really not as intense as it seems. I was very nervous about doing this. But it's really nothing. You're just drilling tiny little pilot holes so the screws go in clean.
I didn't even drill, don't shoot me. Those small screws slide right in to the buttery wood lol.
Quoted from Rager170:Do you even need the bottom screws? Ive found that thin double sided tape can do wonders sometimes...
I had the playfield out of the game anyhow so I did it. It snugs it up to the playfield nicely.
Quoted from pinballinreno:The screw to the far right over the shooter lane should be replaced with a flat head. The ball can hit it.
Its a very tight area for the ball to shoot thru on launch.
#8 x 3/8" or half inch flat head screw.
Pic?
Quoted from Rager170:Thanks guys. So I assume you guys with the Back Alley ones dont care about the witch well? I havent seen it in person so just curious.
Being brutally honest, the modfather pieces are a little... cheapy. What I believe is that they are just carved pieces of foam spray coated with some texture type paint. I could not get two sets of them to fit on my SE, I don't know why and he doesn't know why either. That being said, I believe there are only a few options out there. There is a "cage" for the witch "which" I believe looks horrible. There used to be some witch replacement options but no one is making them that I know of. There may be one other witch wells out there but I forget if they are unique from modfather or just resellers. The thing you really want is the Gouvea one, the problem is he stopped making them and said it will be some time before he makes more. I personally just had my witch tube removed for some time, it looks just plain horrible.
Quoted from bigbadmiker:I'm also happy to be joining the club as of yesterday![quoted image]
You bastard.
You know what you did!
Damnit. I was too late. Great deal.
Quoted from Nokoro:I’m right there with you. Never had a problem with the tube.
Which part of the movie does the tube relate to?
It's a huge after thought, at least that is what it looks like.
Quoted from Coindropper:Nah, witch is fine. Monkey is the one mod to rule them all. Figured out my topper issue. Guess the wiring harness got hung up somewhere when the head was folded down and it pulled the soldering from the LED strip. Unfortunately, the two wires touched and blew a fuse. Killed my spotlights, witch lights, start button lights, and now the door that holds the ball after Dorothy is captured opens with the right flipper... damn it. Luckily, Lowe’s locally looks to have the fuse in stock so I know where I’ll be first thing in the morning...
But you see the witch tube 100% of the time. The monkey a few seconds here and there.
Quoted from Coindropper:Very true, but damn it’s cool! Tube is definitely not what I prefer, but options are limited. I’ve actually been waiting to see what you add to your site has to be in the works as much as you’ve been doing. Awesome stuff for sure!
Thanks! We're figuring out silicone molds and resin casting now got another mod. I have an idea for the witch too.
Quoted from bigbadmiker:Yep! It does have 5v boards so he priced it low. That was his justification. So, after missing out on a $7200 rr barely played and a nice standard with shaker/invisiglass for $6400, I’m thrilled with getting the ecle.
It was about 2k too cheap. Congrats!
2 weeks later
Side thread note.. if you are wanting to replace your Crystal Ball screen without ordering it from JJP, you can't.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-75-buffer-boards/page/2#post-5117891
Also, listed our Flickering Flame Ultra Kit for the State Fair Balloon on our site:
https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/wizard-of-oz-flickering-flame-hot-air-balloon-jersey-jack-pinball
Side thread note.. if you are wanting to replace your Crystal Ball screen without ordering it from JJP, you can't.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-75-buffer-boards/page/2#post-5117891
Also, listed our Flickering Flame Ultra Kit for the State Fair Balloon on our site:
https://pinballmods.co/WOZ-flickering-flame-balloon-JJP
Quoted from delt31:so could be a silly question but does continously turning on and off the machine put more "stress" on the light boards or is it better to just turn it on once and let it play throughout the day even if you're not using it a ton?
Everything I keep hearing is that you treat it like any computer. Going to play it, leave in on during repeated uses. For long periods of non use turn it off. Avoid interrupting the boot sequence, don't power down until the game fully boots. Leave some time between shutting down and powering back up. 5 secs at least. Stress for most electrical components is about heat cycles. The more they are in one constant state the better. Having led lights running on 2.0 boards sounds fine but do we have long term data? I'd suspect either way better to have the game off for most delays between games. No need to push the led driver boards than they have to. We try and leave games on for use in 4 or 8 blocks of time depending on day, week, who's at home, etc. We ask each other if they are planning on playing. If I'm going to or she will then it can stay on. They stay on all day sometimes. My biggest worry is the light boards getting worn, like WoZ. I know this is different but not all LEDs are made with quality. I wish there was a sleep mode.
Quoted from bigbadmiker:Looking for touch up paint to fix a tiny scratch on a rail on my ecle. Has anyone had to do this? If so, what paint did you use?
I posted a while back and spent a lot of time trying to match my RR powder coat. What I ended up using was UV cure nail polish. It's not cheap and you need a UV light as well as some other products (base coat, top coat). I also ordered some Krylon sparkly paint from amazon (and a matching base coat) which I used to paint a pinball just to see what it would look like. It's close, but not perfect. I happened to have the nail polish (or my wife did) so I didn't shop for it and don't know which would work for ECLE.
The ModFather paints stuff that matches decently, but I am not sure how closely it will match while doing a touchup. He told me the paint he used for the RR, might tell you what he used for ECLE.
Quoted from Rager170:Hey guys, got my replacement machine and everything is good. Noticed that the wizard etching is hardly lit. The three lights are on but dont seem bright at all and its hard to even see any green through the etching. Any Ideas?
Pic? Likely a bad LED strip since it's really all that there is to that light. Make sure it is firmly plugged in under the playfield. Otherwise simple swap if they need to send you a new one.
Quoted from Rager170:Two questions for you guys.
Can anyone with the Pingraffix JJP Pinblades share pictures? I got a set but they seem quite dark and have been hesitant to put them on. Curious.
Second, I noticed last night that my back box bolts stick out quite a bit inside the cabinet. Is this normal for this game? I can push it in to get it flat which pushes the bolt outward on the outside, but it ends up working itself back to where it was...
How about a video?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/a8heXH1fpd7f6ARB6
I think those are the ones you're asking about.
The shoulder bolts don't tighten to the cabinet, they have a collar on them which prevent them from squeezing the cabinet so they can act as hinges. IF they are tightened together then you're set.
Quoted from Rager170:Great thanks! I do feel mine are darker than normal...
And thanks for the info on the shoulder bolts. I thought they were supposed to be against the cabinet.. They are tight. I couldnt even get them unscrewed and didnt want to crank on them if they arent a problem.
It's a bit tight to undo them, for sure. But I realized that you don't need to. I did it on my POTC and then realized the WOZ already had the cutouts. So you should be fine to not have to talk them off.
2 months later
Quoted from Daditude:Has anyone made munchkin house mods yet? I keep hearing they are coming, but I haven't seen them.
Let's just say it's coming.. part of the render
There are a ton of extras with it, taking some time to fine tune each detail. Really happy with how it turned out.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Ericpinballfan:That will make 3 people making Munchkin Huts.
This is huts+
Lighting... flowers and vines... interactive ball lock... hummm
Also plug and play, 10 minute install, covers mechs that are exposed, hides wires, hand painted
I highly like the color matched titan sets. They really add to the look of the game with the appropriate colors in the various areas. Titan has a few different rubber kits already submitted by users but they may not be 100% correct, so count the rubbers and colors you want/need based on the manual as well.
Just posted, upgraded Munchkinland huts and surround
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wizard-of-oz-upgraded-munchkinland-huts-amp-lock-ball-add-on#post-5254303
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from DCFAN:First impression is chocolate cupcakes.
It's a render with a solid color, it will be a textured thatched roof painted to look like actual thatching.
Quoted from PinMonk:Yeah, even with textures/painting added, the shapes and details on the huts are wrong. Looks more like a Sanrio toy.
You really think we're going to get sales like Sanrio?! I don't think we can keep up.
Quoted from pinballinreno:That's the wrong view.
You want the view from the game where dorothy first shows up in OZ. When you complete TNPLH.
Those huts near the water etc.
The water is just in front of the shot, you can't see it. It's the same area, the house is to the left over the bridge.
Quoted from PinMonk:Don't get too crazy. You haven't even shown the product yet. No way to know what this looks like when printed.
Well, there is one way...
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from darkryder:Does anyone make a high quality custom shooter rod for WOZ? I noticed the color changing shooter rods are no longer available. Not interested in the character head shooters or the plain red ball. Also, has anyone come up with a quality decal/sticker or magnet for the blank square on the coin door? Looking to dress up the front of my RR a little.
The blank square should definitely be swapped with the volume controls, IMHO. Really makes it convenient to make quick adjustments. Once I had it on my POTC I had to do WOZ.
http://www.pinnovators.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=57
Do you have an idea for a shooter rod? I think for the RR and ECLE (and probably YBR, I am guessing) the modfather rods are a nice fit, color wise. I was considering making a hot air balloon one or a crystal ball one but ... meh.
We have a start button we are working on that will have various designs and fit all JJP games (designs obviously for each game). Still working out the designs and fitment.
Why call attention to the blank spot in the door with added decoration? The panel hides it pretty well, IMHO.
Dress up the shooter lane a bit?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wizard-of-oz-corn-fields-by-pmc
DSC_0006 (resized).jpgQuoted from PinMonk:One airball and that corn is harvested with prejudice. Way too delicate to put under glass, IMO.
If you can get an airball to hit those and break them I'll send you a replacement set for free, for life.
But only to the original owner. 
Quoted from PinMonk:What's this "only to the original owner" crap? Weren't you just on the other end of that?
I really, really need some sort of footer on my posts with a "/s" or "constant sarcasm implied" tagline.
Yeah, just a joke... really, I'm being serious in that I'd replace them if they broke for anyone. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out what would work the best, materials, options and what kind of damage they might incur and it seems highly unlikely that an airball ever makes it over there. But at the same time, I've thrown balls at them (outside the game) and mostly nothing happens. The worst that ever happened is one broke off at the base. I cleaned out the hole and glued it in, fixed. Mostly the ball just passes through the space between them because they are flexible enough and not that close together.
I'm mean, pretty much anything I make I'd help fix or replace if there was some issue done without malice.
Quoted from Rager170:Can the base of the corn mod be done in black to match the rail?
Yup. Can also make it a perfect rectangle so it is almost hidden.
Quoted from adol75:I have another problem with my 2.0 lights.
The Search light on the castle playfield stays white when it should be green.
I thought there was a problem with his data cable but when it rolls colors with the rest of the playfield (on ball drains) it turns to the right color perfectly synced with all the other lights.
Could it be a software bug ? I’m still on 6.61, I didnt see any reason to update the code but this could be one.
Go to the tests for the LEDs and roll through the colors and see what happens.
Quoted from adol75:Yep that was it ! I guess I’m in for another remove the castle playfield session
Isn't it fun?
Quoted from adol75:I could probably do it in 30 mins if removing the left nut of the vuk ramp didnt take me 30mn !
Long, magnetic nut driver, your knuckles will thank you. You can use a long 1/4" socket but inevitably you'll be trying to find that nut and washer somewhere in the game.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I've lost count on castle removals.
I think I can remove it, fix it and reinstall it in 30 mins lol.
Just like the time expander on my doctor who....rinse, repeat etc. I dont even think about it any more.
Yup.. like second nature now. I added a few disconnects for the wires that can't easily be removed, if I recall there is a purple strand that has to be pulled from under the mini playfield that I added a molex to. JJP did much better on the POTC BP playfield, all connectors in one place.
Quoted from adol75:I have one but that nut is under the playfield so I can't reach it. The only "method" I found is a flat wrench, but there is very little room to turn it, so it takes a lot of in, turn, out.
I noticed that the nut was differently placed on my SE versus my RR. The RR one is harder to get to for sure. I think it's just a game to game anomaly but I have two other suggestions:
1. You might try one of these, I never had but it could do it: https://www.amazon.com/HORUSDY-3-Piece-Flexible-Socket-Extension/dp/B07BC7NNHC/ref=sr_1_18 and if you need a magnetic socket just glue a small neodymium magnet inside a socket.
2. I ended up also cutting the wireform that goes around the nut. This way the nut doesn't have to be removed. I just dremeled off the end of the loop that goes over the post so the wireform can be slid under the nut and the nut and washer can stay on the post.
Quoted from joseph5185:How many just have a standard and still love it?
What is the biggest omission?
Standard is fine. Almost any of the things you can add on later. Biggest question is going to be 2.0 lighting and if you want the specific look of one of the editions. If you can find a SE with 2.0 lighting in good condition, go for it. But you can also get a green edition (from automated) new... so might be an option.
The RR toys are available from Backalley Creations. The ECLE has the cool green wood apron, on top of the color of the whole thing.
Quoted from joseph5185:It doesn’t look like Automated has any of their “special” Emerald Cities left. However, they are listing the 2.0 light boards on their standards.
I think green is my favorite. YBR looks cool, but it’s a pretty steep price with other options out there.
Well find a nice ecle with 2.0.... Not entirely impossible.
Quoted from Dr-pin:If you order a new one, how can you be sure it comes with the new lightboards?
For example does all RR come with the new stuff, or are there things that may need to be fixed or replaced?
I just dont know here in europe, there may be so that games are stored for future sales, so you may get an "old" nib.
Or have them pop the lid. If you have a bunch of Ethernet cables going all over the place under the playfield you have 2.0
Quoted from bobukcat:Don't forget the ECLE also has the direct print cabinets instead of decals. They and a very rare few early standards are the only ones like that.
And, while it seems that people really care about that for some reason, the radcals on my RR seem much more durable and resilient than the dinged up direct print cabinet on my SE. Is it just some weird fascination with the direct print being some sort of rarity? OR am I missing an option? You said decals.. my RR definitely doesn't have just decals. Not 100% sure it is "radcal" but it's definitely a thick plastic piece that is on top of the cabinet.
Quoted from adol75:I need help with the rotating house, I must have done something wrong when I removed or re installed the munchkin playfield.
The house never gets in the right position when it turns. I tried adjusting the delay in the settings, and get it right once, but once the house rotates again it stops at a random place.
Any idea ?
See if this thread helps. It's sort of a "known" issue in that it's a bit of a pain to configure exactly. My witch legs still only flop down halfway. It's a bit finicky like adjusting the castle doors or the witch strike plate.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-spinning-house-calibration-problem
I'm far from the 2.0 lighting expert, but I've done a fair bit of research and replacing of boards in both an original 5v set and the 2.0. If you don't want to spend the time or money doing the 2.0 kit now on a game with the older boards, be prepared to pay for and replace boards. Even if you buy a spare set, if a large board dies and you replace it and it dies again (which seems like it is inevitable that the boards will die) the cost is going to be prohibitive and JJP will be less and less able to support the older boards. We're talking like $150 or something for the larger boards, if they are still available. I sold my SE to get a RR and specifically made sure it had the 2.0 boards. Even if the price were $800 cheaper that still means a weekend doing an install. But if you are buying a game on a good deal with older boards then doing the upgrade at some point might be worth it and you can sell the old boards for something.
If you're handy then doing the 2.0 install seems like a cakewalk, if nothing but time consuming.
Quoted from adol75:So that’s how JJP puts all these little rubber pieces without breaking them ! They come with a guide.[quoted image]
Hum. I thought those were two different models. One with the long nub and one without. POTC has spots that have the long nubs still on them.
To get them on easy, just lick them and twist while pushing
Quoted from Pinkitten:I added these little plastic split rail fence pieces along the shooter lane with the corn field art behind them. The corn would look good too on either side of the lane, I think![quoted image][quoted image]
Almost like you read my mind. Except we modeled them after the ones in the movie.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wizard-of-oz-corn-fields-by-pmc#post-5266792
Quoted from jkashani:Does having older light boards in a woz that are working devalue the sale? There seems to be a big emphasis on the light boards when people are selling or buying a woz.
Depends on what the buyer knows
But yes. A game with non 2.0 boards is worth less. How much? Maybe $800-1000k less I'd say.
Quoted from Rager170:Id say that depends on the buyer. Myself, I would never want to do the work to replace all of that. When I went to buy a WOZ, anything other than the 2.0 boards was a no sale.
Oh for sure.
Quoted from darkryder:Same here 2015 RR with 7.5 and no issues. I heard the 2.0 lighting is dimmer, no thanks. Had to replace the Rainbow board, wasn’t a big deal at all. There will be plenty of used 7.5 boards available for years to come if needed. Love my WOZ, still the prettiest game in the lineup
I've had both and I noticed that there were dimmer lights. Not sure if it is just case by case but I noticed the Shoot Again light was dimmer. I don't know why I noticed that one specifically, I don't know if that one specifically has an issue but I never did anything about it. I did have a lot of GI boards that were either out or completely the wrong color or shade that I had to replace in the 2.0 system I got on my used RR, so I wouldn't say the 2.0 system is without fault but JJP folk who replied to me seemed to indicate that the 2.0 system has a lot less issues. I don't know if my case was special but $5 for a GI board isn't that hard to swallow, although I bought like 20 of them.
2 months later
Munchkin house is coming soon, updates are posted here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wizard-of-oz-upgraded-munchkinland-huts-amp-lock-ball-add-on
I have an idea for a monkey mod but we have 3 or 4 other WOZ mods coming out first. I've been playing with a prototype but it's mechanically complex and very little room to house the mechanisms.
Next to ship after witch (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wizard-of-oz-woz-flaming-witch-with-realistic-fire-mod-development) is crystal ball (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pmc-woz-crystal-ball-upgrade-announcement-). Then probably Munchkin house and two others that we haven't announced yet.
Quoted from Rager170:Most of the versions are the same but with different colored rails, legs, wireforms... The LE comes with a wooden apron and the ruby red comes with additional toys inside (tornado, Toto figure, probably others I am forgetting). The toppers are different as well. The Yellow Brick Road does not have the flying monkey if ive read correctly.
All games will play the same so that is good.
There might be some more I am missing so maybe some others can chime in.
RR comes with all of the backalley creations stuff (tornado, toto and castle walls), shaker motor and invisiglass
YBR and ECLE have wood apron
Green special edition from automated has regular apron but ELCE colors elsewhere
Standard has a green lit acrylic etched topper
YBR has color printed topper, RR has a different color printed topper, ECLE has throne room with fire pots (two color) plastic etched topper
YBR does not have monkey mech, does have side blades included I believe
YBR, ECLE, Green and RR have powder coated side rails, lock down bar, legs and habit trails
YBR has a sparkling yellow finish on the YBR playfield areas
Some RR and all YBR have 2.0 lights (don't believe any ECLE or standard had 2.0 from the factory but not 100% on that)
Each edition has their own backglass related to the color/edition
Early models may have come with a printed manual which may also not be a complete manual
Early games had playfield issues and JJP has decals they sell to help hide this
YBR has the new cabinet/CPU layout (CPU is not in the bottom of the cabinet), no idea if this matters to anyone
Early games had direct print cabinets which some say are desirable, I've had both and don't really care
I would guess green edition are the "rarest" but really ECLE is probably the actual offering that was the rarest. Standard might be next and then YBR and RR but don't know for sure.
I think that's all I have right now.
Quoted from LukyDuck:I think their were four models, standard, emerald city, yellow brick road and ruby red.
There are some differences with castle walls with different models, I think, not sure.
Automated "green" edition is out there, so sort of a model
Cast castle walls came from backalley on the RR and go all around, others just get the molded plastic in the back
Quoted from Rager170:I have one of those Green Editions from Automated...
Is it as I described? I think I've only seen one or two pics, not sure pics are still on their site. So just like ECLE without ECLE topper and apron? But 2.0 lights, right?
Quoted from Rager170:Also to mention, it is not direct print on the cabinet. They are decals...
Decals or radcals (thicker plastic)? My RR has radcals on it but I wasn't sure if there were 2 or 3 cabinet finishes. I know there are at least 2 cabinet types (pre YBR and YBR). I think I've only seen direct print and radcal.
Humm.. mine might be the only RR I've seen in person and the only radcal I've ever seen in person. I think it was a factory option either way. The radcals are like 3-4mm thick plastic, you would know if you saw them. Very impervious to scratches but take a bit away from the look.
Quoted from avspin:I have a 75th RR and the monitor has a swivel mount. Made 2/17
But is the CPU also in there? Or is this a crossover period with swivel mount and CPU still in the bottom?
Quoted from pinballinreno:I was offered the RR version very early on. It didnt have the toys, those were added for the 75th anniversary edition.
I did not know there were non 75th RR's... I thought that was the edition and I didn't know they came without the toys, wow. So many combinations.
I'd have loved an ECLE with the toys. Now I guess I could make one. The red is nice but the green has me and the wood apron, so choice.
Quoted from Rager170:I got the witch off from the top of the playfield. Man, what a PITA the way the angle is for those screws in her back..
The threaded rod the witch rides on pulls out of the game with her. If you grab her below the hat (anywhere but the hat) you can gently pull her directly up and out of the game completely, nothing special to do (but remove the tube if it is on). Putting it back in is the reverse but don't force it or bend the rod.
Quoted from Rager170:lol, well.. that information would have served me better yesterday! lol
Thanks! That will make things much easier in the future.
Heh. Yup, been extremely acquainted with the witch recently.
I'm biased but I like spotlights to be able to keep parts of the playfield dim. Maybe their newer version do that, I thought I read something about setting individual areas now. I did 7 spotlights, RGB trough and backboard lighting and am very happy with it.
How did you source the new screen? It has to come from JJP, they won't release the code that runs the clips on the screen.
They also sell the SD Card loaded. I tried backing mine up, and I have a disk image, but I'm not sure if its usable.
If you replaced with a JJP screen and didn't change the SD Card, I would do that next. It wouldn't likely be the cable if some clips are playing fine and you confirmed the connection on the I/O board side.
Quoted from PokerJake:I bought the replacement screen through JJPs website. I'll try and buy a SD card from them when I give them a call. Thanks for your help guys.
I would just email Shannan for ordering parts. If you know the part number it's even faster, but for something like this you can tell her and she'll know. You can try and get a warranty replacement, she might be able to help, if you are in the 1 year electronics warranty. I don't think the card is that much, like $10 or something.
1 week later
Quoted from LTG:Reseat the SD card behind it. Be sure connector is on tight. Then reseat it's connector on the motherboard.
It doesn't really show a lot. With the game powered up in attract mode. Keep hitting a flipper button and eventually you'll see a few things like the splash screen and other stuff. It isn't on all the time.
LTG : )
And you'll get a static image while in the menu. If it's the screen get the card from jjp at the same time, it's not expensive and could be the issue.
Quoted from PinMonk:Depends are full?
You'll have to be more specific.
Basically, yes. I was trying to not make it dirty sounding.
Wife won't let me come up from the dungeon until all these are done so..
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