Anyone installed the playfield repair decals? Looking for any advice, procedure, what playfield items were removed, etc. Did you mylar over them?
(Topic ID: 87617)
Linked Games
Wizard of Oz
Jersey Jack, 2013
Wizard of Oz (Yellow Brick Road LE)
Jersey Jack, 2019
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Quoted from pinballinreno:
I played YBR edition at TPF.
It plays the same as all the others.
I do like the upgrades to the castle playfield, it needed work, and the 2.0 boardset.
I think the yellow color is a bold choice and brightens up the game a lot. It still needs the playfield illumination kit. They didnt address the poor GI lighting.
Missing the monkey is no big deal, sad, but no big deal.
How have the improved door changed the game? Just reliability?
What's the flow of gameplay if the monkey doesn't lock the ball? Extra ball comes out on rescue multiball?
It just feeds another ball via the shooter. Same as if you had 3 balls locked in virtual.
Flow has not been altered. You still have to wait for the movie to end, the ball just stays on the magnet and drops into play.
My personal opinion is the get a RR version with the 2.0 boardset instead of the yellow, in spite of the upgrades for home use.
But I would absolutely get the YBR for location play. It's way more stable.
Thank you for my bias confirmation! RR 2.0 is shopping to me this week.
Quoted from PinDoctor82:
I am not part of the owner's club, but I finally got to play WOZ yesterday (Yellow Brick Road edition) at Pinfest. What an amazing game...so many shots and so much fun. I was blown away, and I have never seen the movie ( ). Thankfully, I made a new buddy who has one and can continue to play whenever I head to his place, as I cannot afford one of these myself. Congrats to those of you who have a WOZ...you certainly made an excellent choice it seems.
Start saving. Your life will never be the same until you get one...muwahaha
Quoted from Nokoro:
How is that possible?
Then again, I’ve never seen Casablanca.
Dude, he's bind. Have some sensitivity!
Quoted from hisokajp:
any chance someone have pictures of the inside of the WOZ computer to see board set placement? I bought new MB/CPU to upgrade from Atom in the prototype.
This work? https://mega-tokyo.com/blog/index.php/site/2012/11
Edit.. this page also has some: https://www.pinballnews.com/games/wizardofoz/index42.html
This is a pretty freaking good deal if you consider quality and rarity... there are hardly any ECLEs coming up for purchase these days.
First is early Atom board like mine Second one is the H61M board so that helps though it is a bit small to check all the details. Will help for now
Funny the article mention a "reset button" for the MB, I guess my prototype did not have one of those.
I can take a better one tonight. You can add the button, mine doesn't have it either but never needed it. I should really back both my jjp games up. How'd you end up with a proto?
any chance someone have pictures of the inside of the WOZ computer to see board set placement? I bought new MB/CPU to upgrade from Atom in the prototype.
I didn't realize how far back the mobo is.. my phone was low on battery so I couldn't use flash. Let me know if this works, if not I'll take another in the morning. The game is still all open.
I doctored them up as best I could in Photoshop.
0504192109 (resized).jpg
0504192110a (resized).jpgQuoted from johnnyutah:
Saw this on a distributor web site. Looks like another run? Will they take out the monkey mech as well?
[quoted image]
Uh, it says flying monkey guys.. wrong?
Quoted from Pinkitten:
So, my wife and I have a WOZ standard from 2016, our first ever pinball machine. We still have it after 3 years, and I doubt it's leaving anytime soon.
I'm considering powdercoating the stainless steel (current picture below) I've seen the job Robert Stone (I think his name is) does, and he's fantastic. He does an emerald green sparkle color on many of these. He can also do a ruby red sparkle color. (He can do literally any color you ask for). I'm considering doing something a little bold, like sparkle yellow with blue or red flake in it. But, with YBR out now, my yellow idea isn't as fresh.
Any suggestions? I think yellow with subtle sparkle or flake would look great. But almost any color would work on that game, so many colors are featured.
[quoted image]
Personally, and I have a RR on the way to me to replace my SE, I am a huge fan of the sparkle green. If I could have found a ECLE I would have jumped on it. Do the wireforms while you're at it 
Quoted from avspin:
I think JJP removing the limit is not true. If they remove the limit they would be opening themselves up to a huge lawsuit. They may have been talking about it last year and decided then to make a new version to avoid the legalities.
When I bought mine I didn't know of the limit, just wanted one based on aesthetics compared to the green one. Played both at Golden State and the wife wanted the red one so that was that.
The number itself doesn't mean anything as far as production. There is a roll of numbers and they just grab one for each machine. So mine is 1460 made Feb 2017. I'm pretty sure it wasn't one of the last at that point.
Yeah, sounds a bit odd.. that also they would compete with themselves in launching a new version and then providing more of an older version. Maybe they haven't made all 1500?
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:
Me again
Ok, so I sorted the hall sensor by zip tieing it in the loom just above the magnet. Works a charm. Can’t sway in to anything to risk a short.
In other news, I noticed that occasionally when I started mutiball, the balls wouldn’t release. It would do a ball search forever but never realease the balls from the lock. In coil test the lock coil wouldn’t work. I had to remove the glass and manually lift it. Then it would work ok for a bit, then do the same.
Luckily I removed the glass quickly to investigate as I touched the coil it was red hot and then started to smoke.
I was in coil test at the time and it suddenly started lifting and dropping as it should. I obviously then turned the machine off and left it.
So in essence. The coil isn’t permanently locked on. It will function correctly sometimes. Does this rule out a dodgy transistor?
I’m guessing The coil is now fried so will need a new one anyway. I can’t test for resistance at the moment as it’s cooling down and I need to get to bed!!
This machine is testing me!!
DANG! You should definitely call or open a ticket with tech support.
Are they really making more RR? Have we had conclusive evidence?
And then, are the including the monkey and are they updating the castle doors to the new one? That would be important to know.
Quoted from LTG:
Today May 9th is my 6th anniversary of doing tech support for Jersey Jack Pinball. I'm grateful for all the friends I've made. Jersey Jack Pinball co-workers, distributors, and customers. To celebrate this occasion at my business SS Billiards, I will give any one stopping in today six games on their favorite Jersey Jack Pinball machine here. I have the full line up. WOZ, Hobbit, Dialed In, and Pirates. So come on in and help me celebrate ! It's been a great six years ! Thank you.
LTG : )
Congrats! An invaluable resource to us who constantly need help
I’m convinced that WOZ is one of the greatest pins of all time. I had another one of those games last night where I had three or four things stacked together and everything was just nuts. Love it! You won’t go wrong in getting one.
The best is multiball lights off scoring.
Quoted from adol75:
I love lights off but I still wish the throne room would be off too. Same with TNPLH everything turns sepia but there’s that big green light that stays on.
I have a lot of spotlights on mine so lights out isn't that dark. From what I read it's not supposed to be a mode where you can't see the ball but just a mode where the target lights aren't telling you where to shoot. So having the throne room on doesn't mess with me much. Might be able to control that with another input.
Quoted from f3honda4me:
My first issue on my WOZ, the 3 light strip of LEDs under the Oz
acrylic are very dim. They are getting 12v ok by multimeter, so I'm
guessing I need the strip replaced. Submitted a ticket to JJP
hopefully they get it replaced under warranty soon.[quoted image][quoted image]
This just happened out of the blue after it being fine for some time? Looks like you have an ECLE, it's still under warranty?
I don't have an ECLE, it's an automated services exclusive
emerald green. It's similar to the RR in terms of features level.
($9500 new)
Ah ok, though that might be the case then. Wish I knew about the AS version, I wanted an ECLE but ended up with a RR to replace my SE. Love the green.
Yea I could have bought the RR or the emerald green and I really
love the green powdercoat. I also wanted invisiglass, shaker, and
the 2.0 boards etc. It's a beautiful pin, and we played it a ton at
a friend's house, but for whatever reason it just doesn't get much
play.POTC, IMDN, MBr, AFMr all get twice the plays our WOZ is
getting. It's not that we don't like it, we just like the others a
lot more I guess between me, wife, and 3 kids.
Yeah, the WOZ is getting a bit of a break since we got POTC but
I still love the game. When the RR shows up on Thurs I'm sure it
will get more love. Especially the modding
Quoted from joseph5185:
But...but
The last time I played WOZ it did that "Lights Out" mode and...
I didn't even know that was a thing and I have only done it once
(and I don't know how I did it), but that was pretty sick!
Lights out is a mode triggered by the crystal ball. You have to light the letters BALL and then hit the crystal ball VUK on the left side. You can get one of a few modes, another is lights on. Love them!
Quoted from Oneangrymo:
Man after what I went through today to get it into my basement I hope I don’t feel the same way !
Happy to say my woz arrived in basement damage free . Now legs . Man my legs are tired [quoted image][quoted image]
WOOOOO... nice. Sorry to hear about the basement, lol. My RR arrives tomorrow and I just get to wheel it in!
Could be a little tight at the top.
See if you can loosen the screws holing the track on and move the upper end up slightly.
If it wont go up enough, elongate the holes in the upper mounting bracket slightly with a dremel.
Sharpie marker will cover the scrape perfectly.
May I recommend a Sharpie paint marker? Covers a little better, has a closer finish and doesn't have that sort of purple hue to it. I have two different sets from different manufacturers and use them for all sorts of touch-ups.
Maybe someone here might be able to answer: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-rr-questions-20-gi-lighting-touch-up-paint-
Pinstadium lights just pulled out of a RR WOZ.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinstadium-lighting-#post-4997857
Would someone please post a picture of the winky target reset switch? Preferably from a newer game. Here is a pic of my older SE and the newer RR has a different configuration. My switch is dangling so I think I need at least a switch backing plate and screws but not sure if that clear plastic piece is something needed on the new mech. The mounting on my SE looks different than the RR.
Picture is my SE.
Additional question, would anyone happen to know which screws and plate I need from Marco? I am going to place an order with JJP so I am going to ask them as well.
Quoted from bobukcat:
This is the only picture I have of the one in my RR, the plastic piece is usually there to protect the contacts on the switch.
[quoted image]
Sweet, that helps! Thanks!
Now to see if JJP can get me those parts or maybe Marco can figure out which ones.
AHA ... I found some of the stuff in the bottom of the cabinet. Not sure if there is more in there maybe under the PC case but it was on it's end being shipped so I would think everything went towards the back where I found this stuff.
0516191620 (resized).jpgWell bless my heart when I lifted the glass to inspect Monkey mech that’s not a scratch from rubbing it’s just some white grease ! So no adjustment needed after all !
BOOM! Nice.. do keep that threaded rod and the guide rods lubed. That monkey can howl if you don't use enough lube. 
If anyone is having whining/hissing sounds coming out of the speakers during the boot process or cracking/popping noises when the game is fully on, it is likely your ground loop isolator/noise reducer thingy that JJP used. It's easily replaced, I wrote up a thread detailing my look into it with a part I replaced it with from Amazon: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/does-anyone-else-have-this-hissing-whining-on-boot-on-any-jjp-game#post-4998295
The WOZ noise isolator is in the bottom of the cabinet against the back wall, little black box. The new one just plugs right in.
Hey guys my decals on the backbox have some mild damage from shipping . My distributor is likely going to send new ones . Do u have any tips on how to take off old ones and put on new ones ? I went through a similar issue with my Star Wars but that was so factory fresh the decal peeled right off
Are we talking radcals or vinyl decals?
Quoted from pinheadpierre:
Why did you pull them out? Seems like a nice upgrade to have.
I'm just not a huge fan. I am doing a custom spotlight, trough and back board lighting similar to my other WoZ.
0516191823f.jpgI kind of like the darkness of woz, makes me feel like I’m sitting in a theater
I like playing with the lights off (that's how that pic was taken) which I could do on every other game I have but WoZ. The sort of purple lighting plays great with the other lighting effects.
I like the look of that. What combination of lights did you use?
That is actually the pinball-bulbs.com WOZ specific kit. I think I changed the bulbs but they were similar when I got it. The back right WOZ spotlight (pointing at the EC) I changed to green and the other two stock are still white, but upgraded. The kit is 6 additional spotlights (standard chrome two piece spotlights, two on each sling and two right near the haunted forest) and 2 LED strips (sort of purple for the trough and blue for the backboard). It runs off 6v and comes with a step down transformer to use the JJP 12v hookup. Now that I saw that kit I just devised my own but with some changes:
1. I used only the one piece black spotlights that JJP uses. Looks consistent, clean and they don't come apart.
2. I am keeping everything at 12v so there are no bulb mixups (yes, I burned several bulbs). I am using bulbs from comet pinball, they have 12v bulbs in several options.
3. I am using RGB LED strips with a dimmer/channel controller so I can mix any brightness and color I want
I am building a little wiring harness so it all plugs it to look stock.
I can post details on the install and pieces if you want to match it.
Did you adjust the Pinstadiums at all? To me that's the real beauty of them you dial in the amount of white and any other color light you want and I think they are awesome on WOZ. They'll even interact with the light show if you hook them up to do so.
I believe they were fully hooked up. I did not attempt to adjust mainly because I am fairly well set on the lighting solution I have/had so I am wanting to just do that. I also was not a fan of having to take them off each time I pulled the playfield (a surprise the first time). I know there is a better mounting solution coming but still, was a pain.
I like the look of that. What combination of lights did you use?
Here is a thread I started on building my own WOZ lighting kit... I'm literally doing it right now so I'll add details as I get them done: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/documenting-custom-woz-lighting-upgrade-kit#post-5001149
Can I just use a glove smear
Some on the fingers and rub it on the long screw ? Just a few drops? Thanks for help
Definitely. A little 3 in 1 oil works too.
Quoted from SDpinballer:
Curious how you went about hooking to the external sub? I have one sitting around that came from a previous auto. It’s 12” and powerful. Not sure it could be pushed at all or might need an amplifier.
There is an AUX out on the back of the machine.
Has anyone found touch up paint for the red powder coated RR stuff? Haven't been able to find a way to get just a small amount of touchup paint that matches (with the metal flake). I assume it won't be a perfect match but maybe something close.
For anyone who was interested in my resolution for audio "pop" at power on, here is a thread I started: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eliminating-the-dc-pop-on-game-power-on
Quoted from fnosm:
I heard this was a custom color.
This in the neighborhood but not the same.
https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-colors/PMB-6905/illusion-cherry?gclid=Cj0KCQiApbzhBRDKARIsAIvZue9SAzYmbA9ViYZMmGvR1M2i1bqVk2N6wZhaMFaIbkfjP7-nFhq4XxIaAiqVEALw_wcB[quoted image]
Yeah, but that's not paint... 
I am definitely not looking to get things powder coated again. I just have a few tiny nicks. I tried a paint called "candy apple red" from a ford car but it had no metal flake in it. It was close but just not quite right, it needed at least some flake. I'm gonna keep searching.
AH HA... Modfather paints his RR and ECLE parts with paint, he says so on his site. "tuscan red base" and then metallic flake sprayed over and then clear. I suppose if spraying is the only option, I'd do it on tiny areas. I don't know what that base is from, but I'm guessing an automotive paint. I'm sending him a note asking if there is a way to get some of the paint or where he sources, etc.
*If we're going spray can this looks like it might be a match: amazon.com link »
I suppose you could spray it in a cup and use a tiny brush for small sections. I have no idea what the match is like, but I might order a can just to test.
*Another option seems like it could be these mixed with some clear or actual red paint: amazon.com link »
*Another paint that might work: amazon.com link »
*Probably not the best amazon.com link »
*Another duplicolor spray, ford specific amazon.com link »
Edit - Ok, I ordered the first option above and some tiny touch-up brushes. I'll report on how it looks.
Tell what else am I supposed to do or look for with my WOZ RR? Everything works fine just no bass, thats why I added subwoofer and my monkey has grinding noise, lube is on the way! What else should I be doing other then playing? Any defects or known issues I should look for?
Thanks guys
Mo
Cliffy protectors if you haven't yet. Covers all the big wear areas. I would add further pop bumper protection personally, some additional mylar circles. The protector there is about 1/3" too far away from the actual pop bumpers. It requires removal, but it's not too hard. Also, mylar behind the winky target (I don't know if the cliffy covers enough, mine is worn down quite a distance). Mylar square under the VUK drop point on the castle playfield, if not already there. Mylar around the VUK behind the castle doors, the edge around the hole gets beat up.
Mods?
Shooter housing: https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/woz/products/woz-ruby-red-shooter-housing
Shooter rod: https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/woz/products/woz-ruby-red-shooter-rod
Sparkle city: https://cointaker.com/products/woz-sparkle-city
Both of these could be done yourself, but mezel makes a great kit:
Light up winky: https://mezelmods.com/collections/wizard-of-oz-pinball-mods/products/wizard-of-oz-pinball-illuminated-winkie-target?variant=705017705
State fair led: https://mezelmods.com/collections/wizard-of-oz-pinball-mods/products/wizard-of-oz-pinball-state-fair
Chuck / Modfather got back to me. He suggested this paint https://www.michaels.com/craft-smart-gloss-acrylic-paint/10194082.html#q=tuscan%20red&start=7 (which I believe is what he uses on his parts) and suggested some nail polish clear as a top coat. I might just coordinate this with using a can of 2X Spray Max clear and dab some of that on instead. The only thing is that there won't be any metallic then, which I am pretty sure will stand out (like the ford paint I tested).
Then I thought maybe there is nail polish clear with metal flake, well there are some options but it's hard to tell what would look good. Then, I thought about my wife and mom who do "gel" nails which is a UV cured polish. Maybe that is a thing to think about, I know there is UV curing in dental work and in some adhesives for repair work. Maybe a UV cured polish will provide more protection.
Not sure what is going to match, so another toss-up unless there is a local store with a lot of options. I'll ask my wife.
There are kits with a few sparkle polishes, so maybe they can be blended like paints.
Here is a UV glue kit, but I think you can just grab a UV light and be fine
amazon.com link »
Doing some more research on this.. would be really nice to have a simple paint on and cure match.
Quoted from calfdemon:
Actually, if you want the light up winkie target, indypinhead from Pinside make a superior one. Nothing against Mezelmods as they make some great stuff, but there have been issues with their winkie and the one indypinhead makes is way better.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-product-lit-drop-target-for-woz
Hum... honestly, not a huge fan of that design. I am changing the Mezel mods bulb for something a bit more targeted and with a dimmer control inline so I can adjust. But I like their drop target look better, and it's the Winky as it was originally, sort of. You can also just grab their replacement target and wire up your own light, very easy.
I used the color changing LED from Comet as the bulb for my Winkie.. Looks good changing colors all the time on a slow fade. As for the target, the MM one might look a little better, but there have been a lot of issues with it breaking which is what I was referring to in regards to quality. The one indypinhead makes is pretty much indestructible. To each their own though... They both work and have good and bad points I suppose.
I thought they redesigned theirs? I know it's from http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/game-specific-products-star-trek-the-next-generation-drop-target-williams-p-47.html but haven't heard of any issues. Interesting.
I wondered about the color changing light. My only concern is that it would be confused with the color changing targets. Would you mind taking a video? I was highly considering installing another switch (or if possibly, using the drop target switch that is there) to turn the light on only when the target is up. I also think I might do a blue/purple light to match the winky color.
They may have redesigned their target, I just know that initially they were breaking constantly and the reviews reflect that. It might be a better product now, but the initial problems were why I steered clear and have been VERY happy with Indypinhead's design.
As for the color changing bulb, it does not change in conjunction with the rest of the lights and Im okay with that. It was either going to be an always on solid color, or a slow fade to many colors. I went with the changing colors. I didnt do any extra work to make it on/off as you are thinking or to try and get it to go with the rest of the light show. I suppose there would be a way to get a JJP LED board and have it mirror another close by light so it works in conjunction with the rest of the game? Something to think about I suppose..
Yeah, I just want to see what the target looks like with the color changing bulb. I have the green and I'm looking for a change. Haven't ever seen that bulb actually used, just on the comet site browsing. I am ordering from Marco right now and adding in one of their color changing bulbs to test out.
I was thinking about the possibility of robbing a light board connection to feed another but I am not sure how that would fair with the JJP lighting system. It seems pretty specific as to how many boards are in the game but maybe someone more knowledgable would be able to answer. I have a bunch of extra GI boards coming in from a JJP order so I can test it out with GI lighting. I don't want to screw anything up. Would be even better if we knew what model connector is used in the GI boards and could build or buy a splitter for easy hookup.
I really wanted to find a cool fire bulb for the balloon but the comet one was disappointing. I ordered some others from ebay which seem to be more of a flicker and less of a "rotating blink" kind of light.
This is the best drop down mod target for WOZ hands down. It's solid and will take bashing forever. The other drop target mods break too easily.
Welp, guess I'll order one as a backup
So my mom (trained manicurist using gel/uv cured polish) says she thinks it will hold up. Here is an option I think I might order which will let me mix and match to get the right shade:
I already have clear here from my wife so I just need the UV light. I think it would be the easiest to put on, if it just holds up.
edit.. HA... look what color my wife has. And we have a "uv" blacklight from dog urine finding, testing to see if that will work. It's 8 AAA batteries versus the huge device the use to cure nails so I am guessing it will take a lot longer. If it works and looks good I'll grab a better light from Amazon.
0521191850 (resized).jpgHoly miracle batman! Not only does the little light cure it (takes a while) but the color is almost like a perfect match! This is before curing. It is as thin of a coat I could get on there but I'll ask my wife if there is thinner we can use to get it even better. Then I'll add a clear coat. It's curing now, seems to take like 3-5 minutes with the little light but I'm leaving it longer.
0521191857 (resized).jpg
*Edit... hekk! Here it is cured! I just noticed that the siderails, lockbar and legs are a different color. They are lighter red and less sparkle. Maybe I can lighten this color up, it already has less sparkle.
*Edit2... and here is a chip on the side rail that is completely hidden so I figured I'd test. It matches pretty darn close, so I think maybe the only difference is between the ramps and rails is that the ramps have larger flake. This is one coat, I am curing a second coat now and going to apply a third to bring it up to the right level. Really thin coats. I really hope this stuff holds up.
Quoted from mavantix:
I was reading down the thread and was going to suggest nail polish paint, most of it is enamel and the gel stuff is even harder cure. Best part it includes the touch up brush!
Looks like there is a bit of a curing issue with this light, which makes sense. I tried to go to three coats and it's a little soft. I might just grab a better light (this was some cheap "find the pee" light) and try again.
Btw, here is the polish: amazon.com link »
Modfather said he might make it available in smaller quantities and with a UV light (well, that was my suggestion). It's pretty cheap as it is, but still waiting on curing results from a new light.
Ack, hold off on the nail polish. That polish is not UV apparently, my wife didn't tell me that! So I am working on UV options now. Apparently it takes a base coat (primer of sorts), color coat and then top coat (gloss). She doesn't have an exact match so trying some things out and looking for options from what I posted before.
I did some custom lighting on the gouvea smoke mod:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/documenting-custom-woz-lighting-upgrade-kit#post-5008082
Quoted from Dansur:
Just got my first WOZ! Looks pretty stock standard, just wondering what the best non-permanent mods are people would recommend?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/151#post-5005847
It's all about those details.
Titan rubber rings (I used the database kit, I am not sure the green works here and I might swap it back to black), black anodized nuts, black washers. Waiting for my green nuts to go on the slings and such. I have white nylon washers to use there. Going to look for anodized washers to match.
0523191227 (resized).jpg
Scary ! What are you doing to it ?
Let's see... I bought all new rubbers from titan (color matched, but the database list they had was sort of incorrect so I just placed an order for the right items). I installed the entire Cliffy kit (which basically necessitates taking the game apart). I fixed some playfield chipping behind the winky, at the upper magnet and at the throne room, painted them in and cleared it. I fixed some chipping along the munchkin playfield where the air balls hit it (cleared it so far) and then going to paint it and clear again, then install the cliffy there. I installed some custom RGB LED lighting on the gouvea witch mod, trough and backboard. I am installing a flickering flame light on the state fair balloon and a lighted winky target. I polished and waxed the playfield and installed some mylar in a few areas that were getting wear (near the top lanes where the sling is and around the right top bend). Probably going to throw a bit more mylar around the pops, the installed piece they have there from the factory is stupidly short in some places so the playfield still gets worn right under the pops. I installed many of the sticker kit (ball, glinda, monkeys, skill shot, castle playfield, etc). I installed 6 spotlights around the playfield.
I think that's it
I ordered that audio doohickey thingy to get rid of the audio hissing and crap from amazon. HOpe it helps
Make sure the remove the old one. I ordered two more so far, need to do my WOZ but it helped my POTC 100%.
Quoted from apinballwiz:
Probably the strip went bad, they fail somewhat frequently. You could check the voltage going to it - I want to say 12 volts but I don’t recall offhand, best to check the manual. Fortunately replacement led strips are rather inexpensive. Good luck!
Most every non-RGB light is 12v, so good assumption. Someone else posted recently that this went out, I think they even have it on the JJP web store.
I didn't like the solid LED light on the state fair balloon and the flame LED from comet was anything but.. it's just a rotating flashing light. So, I bought some flickering LED bulbs and they are way more realistic and pretty freaking bright
1 LED https://photos.app.goo.gl/yGKeovZqhy6nsYt78
2 LEDs https://photos.app.goo.gl/VJ4JHdnGzwoJdSoG7
I have a bunch leftover if anyone wants to do this, I think I had to buy 20 at a time.
Quoted from Pinbear:
Tried to do regular maintenance on my WOZ RR today and found the Test report shows
"Check matrixes switch #70 RESCU(E) (stuck open)"
I have not lifted up the playfield to check. But do I need to order a new switch for it? or I need to take out the castle play field to confirm?
Thanks.
Stuck open? Sounds like maybe a wire came loose... usually those switches only need to be replaced if the contacts wear out. Shouldn't be that kind of wear yet. Stuck close I would assume the switch needs adjusting then, but stuck open sounds like a broken solder joint? Lloyd?
http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/Light-Strip-LED-WoZ-head-etching.html
Says out of stock. You could call and find out availability.
LTG : )
Since it's 12v you could also just grab a small green LED strip and splice it in.
Checked out your videos. It looks good! Is it just me or does the two led version look more flickery compared to the single led? The 1 led video looks more like a blink than a flicker. Are these different bulbs (two diodes in one lamp) or two separate bulbs? I'm guessing the former since I assume these are mounted like standard pop bumper body lights with one socket threaded into the middle of the pop body.
I didn't look specifically, so I'm not sure if they blink randomly or if they have the same pattern. I am guessing the former, so two probably gives a more flickering look. They are individual 12v LEDs with wire leads. In the video I'm just holding them there, hooked up to a 12v power source. I retrofitted them into a bulb base so I could plug it into the socket I installed in the pop bumper. I just did one for right now, can easily swap it out for two. I need to see how it looks in the game with all of the lights on, I think one might be too dim.
0524191637 (resized).jpg
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Has anyone had issues with the back of their haunted trees breaking? Specifically around the mounting nuts. I bought a used RR and the PO had that issue and then one of the trees that it came to me with had that same issue. The threaded rod that the hex spacer mounts to (the rod that comes off the metal bumper skirt) also snapped and left the end inside the hex spacer. On the SE WOZ that I've had for some time I never once had an issue with the trees or any part of the pop bumper. I was able to fab up a hex spacer to replace it and luckily I had a spare tree. Also... I had to dremel a whole ton off the back of the tree to get the nuts to thread on at all.
Just a little mod that I've wanted to do. Sorry for the upside down video. It's the winky light up target but when it goes down, the light turns off. It's purple in this test, it's the bulb I had on hand. I was annoyed by the light still being on when the target was down so I fabbed up a little switch that triggers when it is down. Was tough to fit it in there with the other matrix switch that is on the mech. Pretty happy with the results.
Makes putting the wireform back in a heck of a lot easier. You can put the nut on ahead of time and just slide it in. For whatever reason the RR I just bought has way less room to put this in than my SE. With the SE I could get a long socket down in there but there was no way on this one. But, once the wireform was slid on the post I could just get the long socket and extension in there to tighten down.
0525191459 (resized).jpgJust got the game back together. Coils are still dangling, waiting on sleeves. All of the lighting is installed except I am adding an additional flickering flame shooting out below the state fair balloon. I am going to change some of the bulbs as well, the purple is getting a bit too homogenized. It's less so in person but still a bit much. Maybe I'll add some dimmers so I can control each set of spots.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/L6fUfymwSdNCU4XP8
0525192237 (resized).jpgHere's it with a few accent flame lights near the pop bumper.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vFKj54RbxK94KwRh8
Not sure I care for it much, might move them around.
Quoted from PinJim:
Happy day here. Picked this up yesterday, set it up today. Man, it’s gonna take some time to figure this one out. I assume it’s much deeper than say, TZ? Can’t wait to log some hours on it![quoted image]
Wooo, welcome. Yes, maybe the deepest game I've played, close with JJPOTC.
JJPOTC was a contender for me. There is a JJPOTC CE at Zanzabar in Louisville, close to where I live. I put in a few hours on it and man....what a game! Wish LEs were more plentiful. I have a feeling they’ll go up in price, not down...
LEs are basically unobtanium. Some SE's around and my feeling (along with the general consensus in the POTC threads) is that if you want a POTC get the SE if you can. Jury is out as to if they will make any more with Wonka on the line. The most important parts of the LE can be added or modded.
There is a connector near the monkey magnet in the rear of the playfield. The manual has the I/O board pinouts. You can download the manual from jerseyjackpinball.com - Support - Downloads.
LTG : )
I used to ask a lot of these questions too, until Lloyd kept referring me to the manual and then I realized, yes... the manual has almost everything you need. Sometimes it was harder to find specifics but if I used the bookmarks and then skimmed a bit, sure enough it's all there. Now I just have the PDFs of the JJP manuals I need on my desktop, mostly always open in my PDF reader.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:
Correct, no lane change (edit: during the skill shot). but you dont want to bother with that any way . You can short plunge and hit the witch, or whichever "BALL" standup is lit, or the skill shot between the pops (those will all payoff much bigger). For me, on my first ball i skip all that and hard plunge to get into the pops (so i can try to start a haunted mode) however, I am admittedly not a very good WOZ player. lol.
I've been working on the haunted skill shot. I get it once every few shots so it seems to pay off. Otherwise I go witch, I have never gotten "BALL" skillshot.
Quoted from chalkup8:
Only got it a few times on more. It’s an extremely late flip for 10K points .
I’m really enjoying the Horse of a different Color challenge . I’ve had 6 horses on the bottom left of the screen but not 7.
I’m still learning how it all works. All the same Color horse or all different colours to progress to 5 horses. The cow and the red horses are the most valuable from what I can tell.The chameleon horse is wild obviously but of how much value I do not know.
I JUST got it.. this thread got me wanting to try it out more. It was accidental, I mean I was going for it but didn't even see what letter I needed, just trying to get the shot.
I have no idea how the horses work, I need to look in to that. I just shoot the shots I only just started getting the munchkin loop enough times, lol.
Collecting HOADC is one of the most powerful things you can do in a game because it multiplies your Munchkin mode points if you collect successfully. It is a very difficult shot since it can be so powerful. Just try stacking something like Munchkin frenzy with a crystal ball multiplier and a multiball and have the Munchkin multiplier active as well. Your bonus will be insane. (The Munchkin mode awards are collected during the bonus phase.). Just don’t tilt or it all goes away. I had a 400,000 point bonus once. I think that was the most I’ve ever collected.
Makes sense. I love the basic stacking of multiball and crystal ball, combine that with the munchkin and it's a hoot. Would be nice to have another to add on, so HOADC is now on my list to complete.
I love my WOZ and Dialed in CE so much Im going to get POTC now. But I only have room for one more pin, what u guys think get POTC or wait for toy story?
If TS ends up being on par with Wonka I would go POTC. That was the choice I made in almost the exact same spot, POTC over Wonka.
In my opinion. Get black knight Sof.
I just unboxed an LE.
Man what a game.
It's a William's game through and through.
Does not in any way play like a stern.
Really an amazing game.
Are you suggesting it is on part with the JJP games posted?
It better than JJP POTC and Wonka.
Probably the best stern ever made.
Probably because it's a Williams game lol.
Great innovation and use of mechanical locks.
Great use of the Knight, you really feel the battle is real.
Great use and integration of the LCD screen.
Deep immersive gamrplay.
It's a winner.
Wow... can't wait to play it then. So many people love POTC, would be interesting to see what you think is a better game.
Play an LE, I was impressed with the build quality and features.
Plus it still felt like black knight only better on so many levels.
I was never a fan, I'm a DMD-era guy so that's a bit of a tough sell, but I'm interested in what Stern has done as I like many of their newer games.
My castle playfield flipper is rubbing the castle wall. Anyone else seen this? The flipper is weak too. I’m guessing I’ll need to remove the castle playfield to see what’s going on underneath it. Ugh....[quoted image][quoted image]
Ironically that was one piece I didn't remove in my recent teardown. I would assume there is nothing to see on the flipper itself, I doubt the bushing is worn enough that the position of the flipper changed. I'd remove that piece of wall and see if it is mounted properly or if I can be moved slightly.
I think he is worried about where it is cracked.
LTG : )
Ayup. Didn't you know Joseph is a flipper assembly master now?
Not sure the method used above but here is what I did for the winky lightup target switch, just updated my lighting development thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/documenting-custom-woz-lighting-upgrade-kit#post-5018064
Quoted from mountaingamer:
Ok WOZ fans - here’s a install video of my lighted Winkie mod mod. Again, the lighted Winkie target is awesome, but being lit up all the time - even when the target is down just doesn’t feel factory. It’s pretty simple if you can solder and shop a pin, and fully reversible back to stock.
Nice! I actually don't have the proper mount for the switch in my game so I didn't think of that. I finally have the right pieces to mount the original switch properly.
Thanks Harry - you motivated me dude! Next up is attacking the starmap backboard on Pirates.
HA... already in process
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/would-anyone-be-interested-in-replacement-star-map-plastic-for-jjpotc
Waiting on test parts to be delivered.
Weird, two WoZ here right now and I've had many castle door issues but never any witch issues. Similar situation, switch fine tuning.
I feel your pain. Someone needs to redesign this.
I ended up redesigning the castle door switch triggers. They were just geometrically designed in a weird way that caused them to take way more pressure to close than needed. In fact, the switches used were probably a bad choice and the position was definitely poor. With some simple tweaks to layout I reduced the pressure needed by a lot and made it much easier to adjust the door springs properly.
I've replaced some parts on the witch but not touched the switches. Wondering if there is a simple fix that can help relocate those switches in a way that will allow for easier setup/triggering. I can take a look if no one else does.
I wonder if you can retrofit optos like on the YBR edition.
With the witch or castle doors? They are basic micro switches on the castle doors so if you can send the same signal with optos (which I have no idea) then it would seem possible. I wonder if the overall mech has changed to accomodate, maybe we can get a pic from someone (fat chance, taking off the Castle PF is a pain). I thought the new design was one door, as well. So likely it all changed.
I didn't ever see a video of the color changing LED in the coin door, here it is:
I also tried some different colors in my POTC door:
Blue spot compared with OEM
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Blue spot with brighter blue spot
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Blue spot with green spot
0530191533 (resized).jpg
Blue spot with bright white spot
0530191536 (resized).jpg
OEM with bright white
0530191536a (resized).jpg
OEM with bright purple
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I dedicated another 30 minutes to the witch switches tonight. Here’s what I did.
First, I bent the brackets back into their original condition. Then I loosened the switch plate nuts and played in switch test mode a bit. More or less, the switches did not default to closed all of the time, even with the switch plates as close to the target plate as possible. It’s as though the target plate doesn’t rest in a consistent position.
Next, I bent the switch arms a bit. Back into switch test mode. Even after bending the arms, I can’t get it dialed in. I observed the target plate actuator arms when using a ball to push on the playfield side of the target plate, and they actually push on the target switches, as opposed to opening them. And then sometimes they would open but never close the switches. Frustrating. So in short, the whole system seems inconsistent.
I suppose the situation is better, but not right. I played a few games, sipped some burbon, and the switch target registered about half of the hits. That’s about 50% below my expectations. Ha.
Has anyone made theirs more reliable? I’m an engineer at heart so I want it to be 100%. I’m losing faith. I don’t want it t be a deal killer with me and the game, but it factors into things. Short of that switch, the game is bad ass. But it bothers me...
Anyone else got theirs working better than 50%?
How are the springs? Have you tried stretching them out or getting new one? Maybe they are too collapsed.
I know the mechanism is different but the spring is the crux of the situation with the castle doors. Even if I take the springs that JJP supplied me new, the switches they supplied me new and using new motors they supplied me the doors were FAR from even working. I had to tweak and tweak to get them to work properly. There isn't even an adjustment for the switch position there like there is on the witch. There has to be enough tension in the spring to close the door fully and overcome the switch pressure but slack enough that the motor can overcome the spring tension to open the door. Oddly, the motors aren't that strong and so there is a very narrow margin in which they will actually open.
Quoted from darkryder:
I got around to installing the PinGraffix side art decals on my RR yesterday. Super nice mod, though a bit nerve racking to install and need to be very careful not to damage them. This is still the prettiest game out there IMO.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Wow those do look nice. I have ZERO confidence I would not destroy them.
Pull the playfield out, much easier to install them.
It's not that, it's the repeated pulling out of the playfield. I've hit the sides of my cabinet too many times with the playfield to know those would stay looking good. At least with the black sides I can touch it up. I am going to install some felt on the sides of my playfield to see how that works out, so maybe with some protection it might be ok. I love the look.
Anyone have some mirror blade shots?
Another question. The lights circled below are off in color from the rest of the lights - at least during game play. You can somewhat see it in the picture, but it's more pronounced in person. What's odd is that they are fine if I illuminate them in diagnostics. It's just during game play. Like they aren't rendering the mixing of colors like the rest of the lights.
Is this normal, or (I'm guessing) something's wrong with my machine?[quoted image]
They are the proper color in the LED test for all colors? (W, R, G, B)
Which LED board version do you have?
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:
These things rule, slap em on and lift the playfield to your heart's content!
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
How exactly do those work? They look temporary (like you put them there when you lift the playfield?). And the magnets are there just to hold them in place while you do work on the playfield? Interesting..
They can rub but haven’t scratched yet[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice, I was wondering what they looked like on WOZ. I like the other blades better
Pretty much exactly like that
Thanks. Considering those for sure. Especially since I'm considering the pingraffix.
That was from my ECLE - they look way better on the RR
HAH... I just played YBR a bunch at the NW Pin Show and they look awesome. I have them in my cart... of course pingraffix has stuff for other games I own so now I am contemplating spending more of my retirement funds lol.
Does anyone know the size of the fan in the side of the CPU case? Or have a suggestion on a replacement on Amazon? That thing is loud as heck. Hard to get a tape measure down there.
Ok... first of all, how do you find these things so quickly? I searched and couldn't find it, maybe I'm not proficient at searching here.
Second.. did you find any posts where someone did the fan replacement? I was hoping maybe someone had good results with a fan, I saw some "I like these fans" but not where someone actually did it. I guess I'll get just something with similar CFM and low DBs.
Searching the whole forum turned up this
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/quieting-down-a-woz-ecle-machine
Of course it's 
vireland, many thanks. That's exactly what I needed, fans ordered.
Quoted from adamross:
Ok so I fixed the bigger lighting issue I had, but now this has popped up. Parts of my lower PF lights are out such as slings and lanes.[quoted image]
Swap one of the tiny GI boards from a working light to one of the non-working ones. Quick and dirty test to see if it is the board itself. As much as JJP says the 2.0 system is bulletproof I just got a RR with several bad/failing GI boards.
The older LED boards, not the newer 2.0 system.
LTG : )
The RR I just got had 5 or so bad GI boards (two were flickering in different colors, three were pink when they should be white). I get it that the 2.0 system is much better than the 5v but bulletproof it is not.
Do you have an RR ? I cant figure if the one for the screen will fit.
I do, actually have a SE and RR here right now. I only was concerned about the CPU case fan as it seems like the one that sounds like a jet right now but once that is done maybe I'll notice the screen one. I'll see what happens. Can always return one to Amazon.
Quoted from Pinballomatic:
Nothing is exactly bulletproof, granted, but the failure rate on all iterations of what is essentially the woz 2.0 light board system is a tiny fraction of what it was on the original system. No getting around that when push comes to shove.
Well... I mean.. maybe that *sounds* like a good "pro" argument, but maybe that just means the non 2.0 systems really, really sucked. Without the public knowing the actual failure rate of either it's impossible to make an opinion. 80% failure rate is better than 90%... but...
What I will say is that replacing a $5 GI board is a lot more palatable than a $30 one. At that price it's getting close to LED bulb prices. Granted, I haven't had to replace any of the LED bulbs I've installed in other games but that's also not a scientific datapoint.
Really ?
I've got four games with that system, 12 hours a day in commercial use. And the only board failure I've had so far was on Hobbit when the drop target mech above it had a bent part which shorted the board below it, not the boards fault.
Seems pretty good to me.
LTG : )
Well, like I said, in a RR that isn't all that old I had to replace 5 GI boards and not all for the same failure/apparent issue. That was pretty surprising. Other boards that have some issue, I didn't replace yet, aren't the same hue as the rest. Maybe that means they are on the way out, maybe that's just not great QC, I don't know. For someone anal and nitpicky it's annoying so I'll probably just replace and keep them as spares. You will have way more data points and official knowledge of this than I, so it's only my skewed experience.
I'm definitely glad to know the JJP games I now own have the newer system so I don't have to deal with trying to nurse along the older ones.
Do you have the 2.0 system in your game ?
LTG : )
The RR has 2.0, the SE has 5v. The 5 boards I replaced were in the RR. I ended up buying a complete spare set of used boards for the SE because I needed to replace WOZ2.
Did you try reinstalling the latest update? Wasn’t that a routed pin?
I have not. I will do that, thanks. It wasn't routed, per say, but was in an arcade and has a lot of plays, yes.
Are you sure it's 2.0 ? B.A.G. and Hub boards, bunch of blue ethernet cables running around the underside of the playfield, hooking up the LED boards.
I'm asking to help me learn, I haven't heard of any one 2.0 game losing 5 GI boards. Thank you for your help.
LTG : )
100% ... like I said, I have two WOZ machines right now so the side by side comparison is easy to see. You and some others helped me troubleshoot lights on my SE so I'm somewhat intimately familiar with the 5v system. The RR definitely has the 2.0 system, CAT5 cables, etc.
I made a post about it (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-rr-questions-20-gi-lighting-touch-up-paint-) and here is an album with videos showing the pink and flickering color issues: https://photos.app.goo.gl/roFBtFmU9DNdPsVF6
It was easy to swap the GI boards around and see that it was the board that failed and not something with the wiring or chain of boards, etc. I still have the failed boards, happy to send them to you if you want to check them out. Since they are so cheap comparatively I wasn't so concerned but just surprised that the 2.0 system had issues on this game.
Was your 75th built 2.0 or upgraded? I believe 12/15/2016 was the day that WOZ converted to 2.0 on the line, anything built prior with 2.0 was upgraded.
I believe it came with 2.0 and was built after that date, sometime in 2017 I'm fairly sure I recall from the backbox.
A few options here
https://lermods.com/t/wizard-of-oz-pinball-mods
Or if you want to do custom: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/documenting-custom-woz-lighting-upgrade-kit
When I got my 2.0 kit, two of the new boards were bad. One of the large boards and one of the GI ones. Got replacements and everything has been fine. But, it just goes to show that anything can happen.
By contrast, I’ve had my DI for a bit over a year and never had a problem with any of the lights. Harry, if you have had multiple issues, that is some extreme bad luck. Of course, the pin was routed so it may have seen some heavy play, but it is surprising that you have had so many issues.
I had one bad large board in my SE (WOZ2) and one or two bad GI boards on the 5v system, I've been well made aware of the issues with the 5v system
And probably 8 or so GI boards in the RR 2.0 system that are bad or going bad. Not sure if there was just a bad batch, if the GI boards are more susceptible to issues, etc... but I'm not suggesting there is anything systemically wrong. Definitely had some use.
I must just be unlucky. 
ltg after replacing the GI's that were obviously an issue here is what I see now in white test mode. The differences in lighting you see in the photos (with one light being more yellow and another being more blue) are how they look in person. You can see in the bottom of the playfield view that the bottom right corner of several lights are much more beige/pink than the rest. If you look at the one pic that has the side of the castle playfield in it you can see two lights, one is yellowish and one is blueish. Like I said, I am going to live with this for now, I guess. I have 5 more GI boards new but I am going to wait and see what happens.
Oh, and it isn't a "chaining" thing or wiring. If I swap boards around the color follows them, meaning it's the board.
Quoted from mjfisher:
Thanks for all the info on 2.0 - Harry I’d be curious to know how many plays your machine has had. It would be a worry if it’s only had a couple of thousand I guess but I’d be less concerned if it’s had a heap of plays. I’d be getting a 2.0 kit for a home use machine. Thanks a lot.
22k plays and 3/24/17 build date. Personally, if I were keeping my SE with the 5v boards I would have done the conversion to 2.0. I actually ordered the kit and then happenstance I got the RR and cancelled the order and found a used set of boards to fix my 5v issues.
Yellowish
0602192009d (resized).jpg
0602192009b (resized).jpg
Blueish
0602192009c (resized).jpg
0602192009a (resized).jpg
Castle playfield one yelloish one blueish
0602192010 (resized).jpg
Bottom right has a concentration of yelloish lights, among others
0602192010b (resized).jpg
0602192010a (resized).jpg
You might talk to Frank Becker the service manage, or Eric that designed the system, about this. I wonder if something else is going on or happened in the games past, that is causing this. Yours is the only one I know of with continuing issues.
LTG : )
I actually talked to Frank when I ordered the GI boards. Shannan forwarded my request to him because she knew I had the 5v system in my SE and didn't know I had a RR with the 2.0 system so they were confused as to why I was ordering 2.0 GI boards. He didn't seem that concerned that I had to replace so many boards, but I'm happy to shoot him an email.
Just to be clear, I *just* got the RR so there were not really continuing issues, just these GI issues I discovered once I got the game. If the replacement boards solve the issue then it's $5 well spent on each.
Edit - Frank has been emailed the details.
Quoted from DCFAN:
Are you sure the LEDs are not simply different model numbers? The color of the white varies between different model numbers of the kingbrite leds.
Well... I do know that when I spoke with Frank he did say that the part number on my boards was superseded by a newer part. So if that is what you are referring to, it sounds like that could be true. Nothing was said to me that the colors might be different. At the same time, the older boards which I haven't replaced aren't all the same color of white either, so it's definitely not an issue with one part number versus another. I'm still not that overly concerned unless the color difference is an indication of a future issue. $5 for a replacement board is palatable.
Did all the RR editions come with 2.0 lighting?
Was your 75th built 2.0 or upgraded? I believe 12/15/2016 was the day that WOZ converted to 2.0 on the line, anything built prior with 2.0 was upgraded.
Those don't look like board failures to me such that the board once worked, and it no longer does. Unless you are saying that is what happened. Rather, they look like the lights themselves are slightly off, perhaps a slight defect in manufacture. So, I'm not sure this says anything about the longevity of the 2.0 system. It might just say that there was a bad batch of boards out there.
If a board worked and no longer does, what do you call that? I'm not sure what you're trying to differentiate here. If you're saying the different hues is not a failure, I will agree there.. they haven't failed, but they aren't working correctly or 100%. It's just annoying now, enough that I'll probably spend the money to replace all of the GI boards.
These are the ones that unquestionably failed: https://photos.app.goo.gl/roFBtFmU9DNdPsVF6
I don't know, I sort of expect that all lights have the same hue from the same manufacturer. If the boards change color over time, that seems like an issue. If they are different batches that have different hues, issue. It's not a world hunger type issue but if I bought the same bulbs from Comet and some were one hue and some another they would make it right, I know this as a fact. I haven't known LEDs to change color/hues over time but I have no specific knowledge on this.
Harry got it off route - who knows how long it was on and if the light intensity was set to high.... who knows
Why would some boards be one color and some be another? Why would intensity matter in that case and why would there be an intensity option if it will ruin boards? Why should it matter how long it was on, weren't all boards on for the same amount of time? Why would some boards flicker and display pink when it was a white LED test?
Tell me what exactly an owner could have done to create these problems. Even in somewhat continual use shouldn't these last longer than a few years?
Quoted from Aflacjack:
I know. The game was in my home until Dec 2017. At that point it was on 5-6 hrs a day for 6 days a week max. Also, more than half of the plays are started games and never played. The light intensity was never changed from the factory settings. Pinstadium lights were added for additional lighting.
This guy knows
Naive question (I never had to touch the doors). What are the odds that the right door uses the same screws as the other doors ?
To hold the door to the post? They all use the same screws. It's a M6 or M8 I believe, like a few mm long. I ordered them from JJP since I didn't know the specs, but then someone posted them here (maybe LTG).
Quoted from Damien:
I figured that would be the answer.
Not sure I want to run that risk. Maybe I'll hold off for a later build with the 2.0 upgrade.
If the price accommodates $800 and your time to install, then it's a good deal. Otherwise don't bother.
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:
Fellas, any ideas please what’s wrong with my crystal ball?... I bought my Pinball about 3 weeks ago(I’m new in your Club and this is my 1st JJP), sometimes while playing the game the crystal ball is fixed by itself, but usually I just have to restart the game to fix that.
Thank you.[quoted image]
Welcome
Try re-seating the connector on the back of the CB.
A few questions to my fellow OZ citizens:
1. What causes the glass rails to be so tight it is hard to get the glass in or out? Is it simply bending of the metal side rail channels?
2. Causes for the crystal ball not to work? I reseated the connector and I can see a very dim "skill shot" arrow in it (all the time) but nothing else.
3. Should HOADC be collected on a ball launch (meaning the HOADC is collected when you launch a ball after you lock one)
Thanks!
Looks like the glass tightness is a known issue.. took some searching to find this buried but:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pdi-glass-doesnt-fit-in-wozle#post-2020580
I literally can barely get mine out... I have to plant my hands on it and slide as hard as I can to get it started. I am going to try and bit of graphite dry lube in the channels and see if that frees it up at all. Maybe some wax?
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:
Read up, and google it.
I recently got a sheet of glass and cut the shit out of my right hand reaching and pulling glass out of a machine. It was one day old, had just unwrapped it.
My point... I went to google and started the research of sanding the edges of the glass. About an hour later its very safe now. With the right sanding block wearing gloves and super high greet sandpaper a little water and I was able to polish all 4 edges. During the process i was easily able to get a 16th narrower.
You may be able to do the same and remove just enough on both sides to make it easier.
You could also take it to a glass shop and tell them you need it sanded on both long sides and fix it.
Easy peasy.
Ah man... sounds fun! The wax helped a bit. I'll think about the sanding or glass shop.
ltg I just don't have good luck with JJP lighting. Notice anything wrong in the pic?
Been replacing the GI boards on my RR 2.0 as some were flickering, wrong shade of white, etc. I was getting close to done, did about 10 boards maybe. Went in to the test today to finish up and low and behold one of the old boards is now the wrong color. I had a little PTSD as this is the issue I was battling on my SE 5v system. Luckily, I know how much easier the 2.0 system is to work on. So, replaced the board and it didn't work at all... worried that it might be the connector or the "source" board for that smaller board I tried another new board and it worked. So even one of the new boards didn't work.
I think I'm going to try reseating the SD card in my crystal ball. I still have the "SKILL SHOT" graphic showing and that is all.
In other news my lighting work is basically done. I added a dimmer to the castle spotlight so I could control that independently as the 12v LED I wanted to use was too bright. It also has flashing effects and whatnot, but no need for those. I added another spot to the left of the haunted forest to give a more even light (I hate having that one spot so close but there aren't many options). Last thing I think I want to do is add a separate RGB dimmer for the trough versus the backboard, want to mix in different colors. I put on the fluorescent green plastic protectors, not sure if I am a fan yet.. the GI is just too dim there already for me. Side art blades installed too. I'd like to get the tornado lit up.. I have an idea for where to place the light but I really wanted it activated by the spinning house. I have an idea for that too, unless someone has done it? My phone makes everything look way more purple than it does and way more bright..
Video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/LY8hchY6SP7oozLx5
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And THIS is how you work on a game!
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I've ordered some. 2 pin D connector I think, I'll find the part number. .093 pin I believe.
Actually, if you look at my post history I have a WoZ lighting mod thread. Has all the parts in there I think. On mobile, too hard to look right now.
... ah nevermind I see you're already there. I'm fairly sure those are what I used, but I'll confirm
Quoted from Dr-pin:
Just check what the voltage is on the motor spinning the house. If it's twelve or five volts just parallell-couple a led highlighting the twister. If it's more volts, just serial couple a resistor in that led-parallell line.
The extra load on the board feeding should be negligable.
Btw i think your game looks great. Well done.
Interesting, I didn't think to tap in to that. I'll definitely check out the voltage!
Thanks
Does anyone know if this is the same as the flipper for the munchkin playfield? https://www.pinballlife.com/tspp-upper-playfield-yellow-mini-flipper-bat.html
Quoted from Soulrider911:
@harryhoudini believe its just a 2" mini flipper, that particular one has the long shaft you don't want that, its same as the Black Pearl flipper:
https://www.pinballlife.com/2-yellow-mini-flipper-bat-and-shaft-assembly.html
It's definitely longer than normal. It goes all the way down through the main playfield, the coil is not under the munchkin playfield.
Should be yes Sir
Many thanks.. mine is all marred from the old rubber that was on it and what self respecting pinball owner isn't anal about that? Sadly, doesn't have the JJP logo on it... maybe I'll ask Shannan what the cost is and get the green LED strip as well.
Contact JJP and see if they’ll do you better in the shipping...that seems high for a part that fits in USPS envelope.
My theories for its common failure are:
1. The older design of the LED strip didn’t have heat shrink on the far end of the LED strip, and thus possibly prone to “grounding/shorting out” on the metal U channel it sits in..
2. It’s confined location builds up too much heat in the somewhat sensitive LEDs themselves, not allowing adequate airflow for cooling.
Either way, replacing it will most likely fix your issue. If you do buy a strip of green LEDs, you’ll have a lifetime supply of fixes. If I recall correctly it’s only 3 LEDs on the strip!
Last time I asked about the online shipping versus directly quoted shipping I believe I was told it was the same, but I'll confirm.
I have a roll of RGB strips that can be set to any one color without a controller (just wire up DC+ and then - to whatever color RGB you want). So, I already have the stuff... my strip doesn't have the waterproof coating which probably has two repercussions.. one, less protection from the head sitting on top of it and two, might not get as hot since that stuff traps heat and so it might last longer. Either way, like you said, the stuff is cheap compared to how much is needed.
Thank you ordered 4 got a spare it seems the little GI ones are the most common to go out?
Yup
Quoted from FLpinball:
Greetings! Recent new(and happy) owner here! Can anyone tell me where I get get mirror blades? Best, Charlie
Regular, black and gold
https://www.pinballdecals.com/MirrorBladesPage.html
Quoted from sonambulo:
Hi guys, still thinking in joining the club buying an ECLE version. All I know it has 7,5 boards (don't know if buffered or unbuffered).
It's a 2/2014 build, any known issues on machines born this date?
Anything not 2.0 is likely to have issues sometime. Those sound fairly stable for all the v1 options. As long as you are ok with doing the 2.0 update at some point.
Mine were at the ends of the power harness connecting the purple and black wires on the old lighting system. The 2.0 system doesn’t have them.
I have both systems in my house right now, I'll go confirm. Ironically both playfields are up.
Sigh... I'll post here because it's cool. So, my crystal ball display is having issues. That lead me to 4D systems, the company that makes the display. I found a product of theirs called uTOLED-20-G2 (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/4D-Systems/uTOLED-20-G2/?qs=wBxGIkmvhAol5Vn9
YpLg%3D%3D&gclid=CNvfr92vs7wCFYNi7Aodr04A7g) which is almost exactly the same kind of display but it's transparent. So you can just pop in an SD card and it will display the video, no other parts needed.
Someone was actually making a real TOLED display! I had no idea. Well, apparently they no longer make it and I can't find anyone else who is. I can't believe this isn't used in more places or available from other manufacturers. I asked 4D, they have no plans to make any more. I searched far and wide for other options. I've found a few that are either much smaller, dumb displays or single color.
Well, I thought it would be HELLA cool to replace the OZ head with this display and use some video clips (like the CB) to hide and show the the head animation. It would have been a huge upgrade to that ugly piece of etched plastic and look pretty magical. Sadly, there doesn't seem to be any other real options on the market and no easy way to make one.
I was looking into a pepper's ghost effect but I don't think there is enough space or good of enough viewing angle to do it. I looked in to pico projectors, but again I don't think there is enough room or angle.
Oh well, would have be awesome.
Quoted from JoshODBrown:
One more observation I have made.. I seem to recall that the flippers on the upper playfields would not flip unless the ball was detected as being up there. on my game they always flip when the ball is on the main playfield. I took to youtube to see different videos of the game in action and have seen variations of this. In an IE Pinball video on version 5.05 of the game from a few years back, the upper playfield flippers only seem to activate when the twister mode or castle rescue modes are active. In a newer video from the last few months where some guys are playing a freshly unboxed Yellow Brick Road edition of the game, the upper playfield flippers are always active.
Is this a setting somewhere, or did they change something in the software that keeps them flipping all the time?
Edit: After a little more digging for video, it seems it only disabled them during TOTO and Theres no place Like Home. Really weird, I could have sworn they were disabled until you got the ball up there.
I've played on a wide variety of code base eras and all versions of the game (well, except the "automated" emerald green) and I don't ever recall the flippers not flipping (except TOTO and TNPLH, if you say that is the case... I didn't even think about that).
Quoted from oropuro:
How difficult is switching out the light boards or upgrading to the 2.0 ones? Is it $800 and 40 hours of work or switching things out easy ?
Most people report a weekend of work. I've done a pretty fair amount of work on WOZ and read the install guide and I'd say if you are handy it looks like it isn't that big of a deal. I mean, it is literally removing the old boards and installing the new ones (and running wires). It's all pretty plug and play. If you take your time, run the wires cleanly and zip tie stuff then probably a weekend is a good, relaxed timeline. I was estimating I could get it done in a day if I wanted.
My next week end of work is to install silent fans, to me it’s a much bigger issue than led failing that actually don’t fail much.
But the noise, urgh I cant take it anymore !
I did just the CPU case fan and it was amazing. Btw, if you order any standard fan forget about splicing it in to the wiring. The mobo has headers for fans built in. My fan came with an extension that let it reach the mobo no problem.
Edit - here is the fan: amazon.com link »
Just remove the old one and force the plug from the new fan through the rubber grommet on the PC case. I lubed it up a bit with some water because it was tight. Then use the extension to make it to the motherboard.
Just arrived on my front porch. My machine will live on forever!!
I am guessing these have cured long enough I am going to spray on some Spray Max 2X gloss and buff the crap out of them and store them away, lol. Some day I'll do the swap. Can't wait to have shiny, buttery smooth playfields. My main playfield is dull and I know the only way I'm getting it back is to machine polish it, so might as well just do the swap. My munchkin playfield got hit with too many airballs so it's beat up, has cliffy on it now. One day my game will be pristine!
0701191643 (resized).jpgWhere did you get these Harry? Been thinking about getting a spare Munchkinland playfield for my game.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/80795
I bought ones that weren't cleared again but for $800 you can't go wrong. There have been a few on ebay but only the main playfield and castle, never have seen the munchkin for sale.
My original translucent winky target hasn't broken.
The target is made by pinballmods.com I believe.
Quoted from wtatumjr:
I'd just use what you have until it breaks. The early Mezel's seemed to be 3d printed and you can see and feel fine lines on the part that sticks under the playfield. I think Mezel fixed this but not sure. The Indy's seem to be molded or cut from a polycarbonate and have no horizontal flat lines anywhere.
Mezel uses the pinballmods.com one now. Injection, I believe. Mine is definitely not 3d.
FYI lighting upgrades
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/documenting-custom-woz-lighting-upgrade-kit