(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

6 years ago

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  • 10,464 posts
  • 556 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by LTG
  • Topic is favorited by 252 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (6 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (3 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (1 year ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (1 year ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (12 months ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#4553 2 years ago

Looking for price help. What would be a fair price on a ECLE w less than 200 plays and 7.5 rev 1.1 light boards with these mods

castle walls, Toto, tornado, pdi target decals, and the emerald city mod


#4556 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Probably in the $7500 to 8500 ballpark. Make sure it is an actual ECLE (# of 1000 on the wood apron) and not one of the green editions automated services was calling an emerald city edition.

It is. Thanks for the estimate. The guy wants 8200 and i thought that was high based on the things I saw sold on pinside.

2 weeks later
#4627 2 years ago

For those of you that have DI and WOZ...if you had to get just one, which would you chose?

#4636 2 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:


In my case it would be a ECLE(5v boards) vs a DI LE

#4638 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

What is the price difference and conditions of the two?

Both are minty HUO. The ELCE has a ton of mods (mirror blades, castle walls, witch mod, tornado, toto, etc) and is $700 cheaper

#4640 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

The 5V ECLE HUO is probably worth about $7000 to $7500. The DILE HUO is probably worth about $8000 to $8500. A DILE NIB can be had for about $8500 shipped.

yea the woz is at the higher end of that range and the DI is at the lower end of that range. Wife wants WOZ, kids want DI....I am screwed lol

#4649 2 years ago
Quoted from 2000_Alum:

Depends on what you like obviously. WOZ has a deep ruleset you will never see depths of unless you are an amazing player, but you can experience much of it in pieces. Games can last in excess of 20 mins regularly and it is more of a fun shooter than many give it credit for.
DI is fast, smooth and fun. Light hearted theme focused on mode based play for highest scores. DI has more of a "one more game" feel to me and more of a "user friendly" layout. I would probably go with DI if it was for a family, WOZ if I had limited space and wanted a constant challenge.

It’s for a family. I worry about woz’s difficulty as it wasn’t the easiest for me to pickup when I played it and I’m far from a great player. My wife loves the look of woz and the theme and the vote is split down the middle on DI and Woz.

#4654 2 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I would think about how much of a haircut you will have to take if you decide to sell the WOZ. The 5V system is, perhaps unfairly, looked down upon and is a factor in resale. FWIW I have a 7.5V system and will order the 2.0 swap kit as soon as it is available. Mostly because I think WOZ will be the cornerstone of my collection for a very long time to come and I haven't had the best experience with the current light system. I definitely think it is worth the xtra$ for the stability.

Honestly the resale is the major hold up on me just going and picking up this one. Even if you have no issues with the machine no one else wants to touch it. Is it known yet if the 2.0 swap kit will be able to be done to a 5v machine?

#4663 2 years ago

Picked up my WOZ today. Snowed in all weekend so it’s time to practice

#4672 2 years ago

This game is amazing. The immersion, depth and aesthetic beauty of the machine is unmatched.

Question though. Is my plunger ridiculously weak or is something else amiss? I can’t plunge straight through the orbit. Best I can get is into the top lanes and into the top pops.

#4678 2 years ago

It doesn’t seem to be hitting anything.

Auto plunge shoots it right through to the pops. It’s just when I manual plunge it has issues getting through sometimes.

#4681 2 years ago

Well, game lasted 3 days till the light boards died. 3/4 if the play field is a strobe light mess now. Gamble on old game failed

#4685 2 years ago

Game smells like smoked boards. Now 3/4 the lights are dead. Should have got the dialed in lol

#4688 2 years ago


#4689 2 years ago

it looks like 30 is the last working.

14, W7, 159, W5, 160 are strobing, the rest are dead

#4691 2 years ago

Yes, I just saw that. 30 is the last fully functional light.

#4695 2 years ago

I bypassed 13. No change other than 13 is off as expected.

Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Move the long green input data cable from 13 in to 14 in see if 13 is the issue. Make sure the long cable on 30 coming out of the red is in tight.

#4698 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Okay try jumping from 10 out to 13 in. That skips 12 and the castle playfield entirely in case 30 is the issue.

Ok, 10->30 brings w7 back online but w5 has like 1 functional (dim) led working on it and the rest down stream are still dead...

Regretting this purchase more by the second lol

#4699 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

It does appear in your video that the winged monkey inserts are flickering which would indicate to me that the problem is likely there or before. I could not see if the GI in the OZ lanes (5 and 7) were working.

5 and 7 are working

#4701 2 years ago


I bypassed 10->13 and bypassed w5 and everything downstream lit up. Progress!

Running through the led test all colors are good except red or green. When I go red or green all the boards are a mix of red and green.

So, it looks like so far my bad boards are :

As of right now.

#4703 2 years ago

I did and the colors are still borked and things are randomly strobing. There has to be more boards shot. Giving up for now.

#4704 2 years ago

With the castle and w5 bypassed in settings, I still have 1 light in EACH of my rgb boards that is green when it is supposed to be red in led tests.

In gameplay, it’s all kinds of wonky.

I’m really hoping not every damn rgb board is fried.

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#4706 2 years ago

I did change the software settings and took out all boards that were bypassed.

#4707 2 years ago

Looks like 28 is bad too. I wish I had a set of test wires that was like 6’ long to help in this process

#4711 2 years ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

Did this all start to happen at once when you were getting in there to adjust the shooter rod?

Hah. No. I was playing a game (grand champion game dammit) and half the field locked green. Upon reboot, the half that was locked green went full strobe light disco inferno.

1 week later
#4831 2 years ago

So, my drop target made a few clicking noises today then stopped registering hits. No matter what it does not go down. Any idea on where I need to look?

edit: ignore me...spring is gone....i guess that is where i should start.

#4832 2 years ago

Yup, drop target broke. Found the spring in the cabinet. I didn’t even realize this was a modded drop target....

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#4852 2 years ago

Ok, so I replaced my broken drop target with the original one and now whenever the target is down the damn game call outs for “shoot the castle” over and over. What switch is causing this?

#4860 2 years ago
Quoted from check_switch_26:

Check the switch on the drop target. From what you describe, I would guess that it is triggering on vibrations and needs to be adjusted.

That was it. Thanks!

3 weeks later
#5011 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Thanks! When you say, "(re-seating both power and data connections on the board seemed to solve it for me)" - what board did you do this on? The board behind the back box?

The individual light boards

1 month later
#5184 2 years ago

I just talked to support on Friday ordering yet another batch of boards and they said the 2.0kit wasn’t out yet. Is it really out?

#5209 2 years ago

Argh...so half my lights are out again and I thought I traced it back to 30 under the castle so i ordered a few more boards. Lucky me, it's not 30 and now I got to take the damn mini playfield off and see what's up.

3 weeks later
#5319 2 years ago

I finally cracked a million today after owning the game 4 months....not a big deal to most here but I was pumped

3 weeks later
#5393 2 years ago

Anyone else have this issue:

Sometimes when I get a particularly intense scenario going all at the same time (multiple multiballs active, witches orb mode, munchkin, etc), my light boards will have a stroke and half the field freezes. This also loves to happen in games where I am about to hit GC and enter Melt the Witch....

Usually after a reboot it goes back to normal but sometimes its the precursor to yet another dead light board. Anyone else seen this behavior?

#5395 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Could be a loose connector or loose wire in a connector to one of the LED boards.
LTG : )

I've been through those damn board connections so many times....I'll look again because it does make sense with 5 balls flying around something might dislodge for a second and make it go crazy.

3 months later
#5802 1 year ago

Anyone install the 2.0 conversion kit yet? Having a hell of a time moving my ELCE because it has the old boards. Might just keep it and convert it to 2.0 but am interested in hearing how hard/intense the install was.

#5806 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

I have. To learn for tech support.
Now bear in mind, I didn't get a kit, more a box of parts. And some delays getting things that were missing. Your kit shouldn't have that issue.
PM me your email address and I'll email you the instructions.
Basically time consuming, nothing hard. Remove old LED boards, remove data harnesses and power cables. I cut some off flush with harnesses instead of cutting every cable tie and redoing them. Remove power supply.
Put in new big boards, even swap. Small boards you need to drill a pilot hole and use new screws. Instructions say two per board, one is enough. Mount B.A.G. Board and HUB board. Run cables and ethernet cables. Add new power supply then run power cables.
You do need to remove castle and spinning house playfields for this.
Take your time, do a good job. Figure about ten hours.
LTG : )

Thanks for the info. I would double your estimate since it took me like 4 hours to get the damn castle playfield off and back on correctly when I had to replace the boards under there lol.

#5808 1 year ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I suggest you inventory your 2.0 kit when it arrives even if you aren't planning on making the swap immediately. Mine came missing a wire harness and I didn't find out till I had a 3 day weekend that I was going to use to make the swap. I knew that JJP would take care of me, (they always have, I can't say enough about the excellent JJP approach to service/support and their people, always top notch), I just wish I hadn't let it sit so long before I found out so I could have had the part in hand when I had the time.

Good point. I confirmed with JJP that the kit is out and it is $799. I may just hold out till if/when I have a large board go out before making the swap.

2 weeks later
#5868 1 year ago

edit: wrong thread

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