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(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

6 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 11,304 posts
  • 578 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 hours ago by Navystan
  • Topic is favorited by 271 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

9 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (6 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (3 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (1 year ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (1 year ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #11015 Adjustment advice for the monkey Posted by LTG (34 days ago)

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#925 5 years ago
Quoted from Kahanaohana:

what kind of tool do you guy use to loosen the tiny nuts on the leaf switches? specifically the witch leaf switches, those 2 tiny black nuts. is it some kind of nut driver? socket? thanks for help.

Be careful when retightening the tiny nuts. It is easy to overtighten and break the tiny bolt. Those bolts are part of the bracket so breaking one means replacing the bracket.

1 year later
#3036 3 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

I have a RR that was made this past Nov. Anyone have an issue with the castle double doors, On lite hits the right door will open a little bit and sometimes the ball sneaks up there and sits behind the left door and the game has to go into ball search and finally open both doors and have the ball fall in the vuk to get the game going again.
Talked to JJP, they heard of the issue before and just don't know a fix yet, Just curious if any once else has had this issue.

I have had the same right door issue and another issue where sometimes the doors just don't open when they are supposed to. Please let us know if a fix is discovered.

#3043 3 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

$8500, before shipping. Also doesn't include the Invisiglass or Shaker which I recommend getting. That, and liking the look better, was why I went with the Ruby Red. It includes shaker and invisiglass, all the nice mod toy upgrades (tornado, toto, rainbow target decals, castle walls, etc), and a printed version of the manual.

In my opinion the standard is overpriced at 8500 as is the RR at 9500. But since you are going to be overpaying anyway to buy a NIB WOZ you might as well improve the value of your purchase by getting the 75th Anniversary Ruby Red machine.

The price difference between the RR & the STD versus the feature difference makes the RR a good buy. It looks better, has more toys/mods, better glass, shaker motor and printed manual. If you bought a standard and added the extras you would be very close to a RR price wise but would not have the great red finish on the armour and rails. Glass = 300, Manual = 100, Shaker Motor = 100+ etc...

BTW the printed manual has been very useful in my experience. I bought this separately as it didn't come with my RR. Was it pricey? Yes. Has it been worth it? Absolutely.

At 9500, closer to 10,000 when you add shipping & tax this is a big investment. It has been my experience that the support from JJP has been consistently superb. JJP is here to stay and they are committed to making you a happy and repeat customer. Buy with confidence.

#3074 3 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

2) Does the base score required to win a replay automatically start rising higher as the high scores list changes? Now that I have a few 1M+ scores on my leaderboard I noticed my replay base value is 230,000 and I swear it was 200,000. I know it goes up when you earn a replay, but I'm talking the base value.

There is a setting for this that increases/decreases the required score so that replays occur every X%(in the settings you determine the %.) So if a lot of high games get put on the machine then the value increases. Alternately if the only people that play the game aren't able to get good scores then this value decreases. I have seen the value be as low as 180K on my machine.

#3077 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

My family demanded that the reward be turned into extra ball awards instead so that they can make it further into the modes.

I will take an extra ball over a free game every time. I do like raising the bar or in this case the points required to get the extra ball(s.) There is nothing worse than being north of a million points without the possibility of another extra ball.

#3088 3 years ago

When the coin door is open and the playfield is up my WOZ likes to try to eject a ball. Thank god for the gravity gate. Anyone else notice this? Is this a setting that I can change?

#3090 3 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

Yikes, that shouldn't happen if the door is open as it should cut power to the coils. A e you sure it's firing and not just the balls shifting?

Definitely firing, Now I'm not sure if the interlock switch is on or not but either way I don't think it should be firing especially if there is no game in progress.

#3094 3 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Do you get the big message on your screen that the coin door is open?

Yep, I get the big message.
I need to double check whether or not the interlock switch turns it off. It just seems that I am always having this solenoid fire when the playfield is up.

#3116 3 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Well, the YBR gives one too. That's the easy one to get.

That is one at 10 and another at 50 and another at ???

3 weeks later
#3298 3 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I'm having a really annoying problem with the witch switch. It registers light hits but sometimes (maybe 50%) of the time if it's hit with a hard direct shot it doesn't register. Super annoying on skill shots when you nail her and expect a hurry up but it doesn't register. To top off my frustration, I was battling her the other night, locked my ball, shot the ramp and nailed her right in the middle....the shot didn't register and drained immediately down the center. I just about lost my mind.
The switches work fine in test mode and I've adjusted them twice now and cannot seem to fix this problem. Does anyone have any pro-tips on how to get her registering better?

I have had this same issue as well. I was wondering if it was possible to redesign the witch switch(es) to work better, maybe an eddy sensor or a slingshot with out a kickback instead? Just a warning that if you are adjusting the switches go easy on the tiny bolts as they break off pretty easily and once that happens you are in for a lengthy procedure to swap out the whole lower witch assembly bracket.

2 weeks later
#3482 3 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Sorry, everyone. Been holding my breath on this all week and really needed to vent.
Just want to be clear.....JJP has been great and I appreciate everything they are doing for me. I realize how complicated these machines are to make, and stuff happens. I don't have a single bad thing to say about JJP and my WOZ is seriously ffffffff'ed up (for a NIB, I mean). But I am still confident they will get it all sorted out.

I think we all have empathy for your situation. This could have been anyone of us in your situation and I think it puts a damper on potential future sales to hear stories like this. Just to be clear I don't know you but I believe you. If what you say is true (and I think it is) you should out that distributor by name and help the rest of us avoid getting abused like you did. It seems to me that this huge disti needs a wake up call. They should have sent you what you ordered or made it right not just moved whatever they had in the warehouse and then leave it to JJP. JJP should be concerned about this kind of shoddy business practice as well. This machine is super pricey you shouldn't have to bend over when you are paying that kind of dough.

- whew - wipes sweat from brow and waits for heart rate to return to normal.

There are two very positive things here:
First, once the dust clears you are going to have an amazing pinball machine that will give you years of enjoyment.
Second, JJP takes care of its customers. I don't know of any manufacturer that will work harder to get your game fixed and keep it running than JJP. Great games, great service, great company.
Second, part 2 you have LTG who is an amazing and tireless resource.

#3484 3 years ago

^^^^^^^ Thanks for sharing your story and being willing to help all of us avoid a similar fate.
I have an original RR75thWOZ and have been contemplating getting one of the Rev 2 versions as a backup because this is the best pinball machine I have ever played IMHO. Your story has made me rethink my approach and I will definitely wait for now as a result.

The only other thing I can add is to make sure to get the Cliffy Munchinkin Land mini playfield protector installed as soon as possible. You will be glad you did.

#3494 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

You aren't. You didn't get what you paid for.

Call them. Insist on talking to Mike Daddona.
LTG : )

You are such a stud!
I volunteer to be president of the LTG fanclub.

#3520 3 years ago
Quoted from redacted:

I wonder if there's something wrong with my WOZ. I've had it for 18 months and it's been played plenty, but nobody has ever been able to lob a ball to hit the edge of the Munchkin Land playfield.

Please ignore my suggestion.

4 weeks later
#3658 3 years ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

Forgive my ignorance, but how do you submit a formal ticket for support. I thought I submitted one on their website, but I haven't been contacted in 2 weeks or so and was never sent a ticket number. I'm having an issue with the speakers as well as trough. It's spitting out two balls continually - I've tried to connect and disconnect the connectors for the opto boards multiple times, but it only fixes the issue for a couple of games. The speakers are also cracking, and now during some games the volume will only come out of one speaker, or become so low (even though volume is all the way up) that it's very hard to hear.

Call em.
Support ticket system can be hit and miss. Phone call works almost all of the time. Also a PM to LTG is very effective in getting assistance with your issues.

1 month later
#3845 3 years ago
Quoted from TomT:

Yeah I know a tiny strip the connector is good I'll check it in the flash test has anyone had to replace one?

I have. It was a very easy replacement.

#3856 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

You can move data harnesses around with power on, power connectors always power off.
LTG : )

Thanks LLoyd ,
I always wondered if there were exceptions to this. Makes trouble shooting much easier.

2 months later
#4037 3 years ago

Go New
2.0 Lights totally worth the $.
I would gladly cough up an extra 1K if I could swap out my RR for a NIB RR with 2.0 lights.

#4042 3 years ago

Take it from someone that had a lighting issue with 7.5v boards.
The daisy chain makes it a pain (poet i know it) to figure out where your problem is.

#4047 3 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

By the way...the lighting system "issue" is waaay overblown in my opinion.

Agreed, most people haven't had issues with the lights. And I can't thank the fine people at JJP and LTG enough for their great support. You are in good hands with JJP & LTG.

But if you do end up having an issue it will be easier to troubleshoot/remedy with the new system.

#4054 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Im just saddened that the sparkly ruby slipper flippers didnt work out and are out of production, they were cool!

I took off my black bats and put sparkly ones on. Even without the slippers they look much better than that black ones. They do break so buy a couple extra for when they need replacing.
You can get these from BayAreaAmusements they even have the JJP Logo on em.

JJP-30-0012-02L (resized).jpg

#4055 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

My understanding is that the only advantage the 2.0 boards have is that should one go out you no longer need to manually disable and bypass it since they are all in isolation. Also different cable system *might* end up being more reliable than the current wires but as long as your not messin with stuff...

Why did JJP decide to go to all the hassle of changing the lighting system on its flagship game that has been produced for 4+ years with the new design? Including new parts/new drawings/ new code, etc...

My guess is that the change happened because the new system is significantly better than the old system.

I have a beautiful RR with the old system that I will sell to anyone that is dying to get there hands on the old boards so I can replace it with a new RR with the new light system.

#4063 3 years ago

The lighting kit from Pinballbulbs lights the game nicely. The original lighting was insufficient to play in the dark, IMHO.

#4064 3 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Nope. They changed because one of the parts (a chip) has been discontinued. They bought tons of the remaining chips for repairs.

A system that requires a huge stockpile of replacements in addition to being completely replaced sounds like a system to avoid.

Not complaining, I encourage innovation and I am a big fan of what JJP has done and how they continue to push the boundaries. No other manufacturer comes close to the level of innovation that JJP puts into its games. That is why I am a JJP customer and will continue to be. Sometimes it works sometimes not. To me this is a case of not and if I was in the market for a RRWOZ, knowing what I know now (BEST PINBALL MACHINE EVER!!!!) and having had the issues I had with my lights I would pay extra for a new machine with the new system v. saving some scratch and getting the daisy chain version.

I know there are people that get off on figuring out why their machine isn't working. That isn't me. I want to be able to quickly id the problem and fix it. My experience was one of extreme frustration playing whack-a-mole with this lighting system. Its not for me and if you are like me and want a simpler troubleshooting process, the new system is the way to go.

1 week later
#4104 3 years ago
Quoted from OlDirty:

Not sure if i'm also a member when owning just the playfield, but anyway. Did a project to animate the playfield with an Arduino UNO and WS 2812 RGB Led strips. Recorded the original animation and analysed it frame after frame so i know how the LEDs needs to be controlled. Workload was absolutely insane, never thought it would take that much time. A "bit" of soldering and a "bit" of coding".
But at the end i'm happy with the result. Enjoy!
» YouTube video

Great job and a nice piece of wall art to boot.

1 month later
#4280 3 years ago
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

I've had my RR for a couple months now but just recently started having this issue. Capture Dorothy is not lit yet however magnet captures ball when I hit right orbit and monkey does not drop down to capture it obviously. Ball just stays stuck on magnet.

I believe the first time you hit the right orbit the ball is captured by the magnet and then drops to the O Z lanes after a brief hold. No Monkey Action if Capture Dorothy arrow isn't lit. After the first orbit you should be able to shoot the orbit without being stopped by the magnet. I am sure there are some rules that govern this functionality but I am not sure what they are. This is just an observation of how my machine works. Anyone know enough to comment on this?

Also I have noticed that since the latest update the Munchkin Magnet seems to stop the ball on occasion without any perceived reason, then lets it go after a brief period of time. Is this intentional? Is my game busted?

#4284 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

This is the witch hurry-up helper. If your in a witch hurry-up it will grab and let the ball drop onto the upper right flipper so you can get the hurry-up. A strong nod to TZ and the camera helper.
It's a new feature in 3.5, I believe you can disable it if you don't like it.

Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Munchkin magnet grabs the ball to attempt a slow feed to the upper right flipper when the witch is lit for something ala Magna Save on Dirty Harry. The top magnet grabs the ball whenever an orbit hurryup is scored, so if one is running down and you shoot the orbit (regardless of the capture Dorothy situation), the magnet will grab the ball briefly to allow the game to play the fanfare of collecting the hurryup, then drop it to the lanes.

Now that I know what it is there for I love it! Thanks!

#4314 3 years ago

I have an original RR and I bought it new. I have had issues with the castle doors as described above, a power board failure, broken diode on a monkey target (twice), 3 or 4 of the stand alone lcd boards had to be replaced and I had a data cable that just needed a little strain relief. Definitely no reason to not own the original machines. All of my machines regardless of manufacturer, new or used have needed servicing for this light or that switch/transistor and JJP is no exception. However, when it comes to support JJP is head and shoulders above the other companies I have dealt with. Not to mention LTG is an amazing and tireless resource.

At the end of the day a normal amount of maintenance is a small price to pay for owning the greatest pinball machine ever.

#4316 3 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I agree, just seems like *some* owners have more issues than others. It's not as if light boards is an unheard of with Woz. I agree that some issue are to be expected but I have had several Stern pins that have had zero issues over many years of ownership, but I'll agree that those Stern pins probably have half the number of parts/complexity as a Woz.

Knowing what I know now I would buy the newer RR with the updated lighting system. But I am not gonna sell my old one to get a new one. Old one is just fine.

2 weeks later
#4412 2 years ago

Quoted from rai:
what is the throne room multi ball it looks like (from the rules) as ECMB, however I didn't have that ready to go, so does it just jump to ECMB with auto launch balls?

I'm guessing that you have your machine set to 3 balls per game and the kick ass game described above all happened because of the the 3rd ball.
Throne room Multiball is a gimme on your third ball when your first two balls are not good.
Its like the machine is saying to you:
"I know your first two balls were pretty awful but trust me, once you get to know me your are gonna love me.
And to prove it to you here is a multiball.
Told you I am a great game.
Of course I take bills "

So many of my epic games all happened because of 3rd ball Throne Room Multiball (3BTRM)

#4414 2 years ago

I'm almost certain that 3BTRM only happens in this fashion.

#4432 2 years ago

I had the same no lights issue once and it was also corrected by cycling the power.

2 months later
#4629 2 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

For those of you that have DI and WOZ...if you had to get just one, which would you chose?

They are both great for different reasons. I would sell other games and then buy both of em.
However if this isn't an option go for the one that you can get the best deal on.
If that doesn't help then buy the one that looks best to you.
You are probably going to have this game for a long time so make sure you get the one that you like the looks of best.

#4652 2 years ago

I would think about how much of a haircut you will have to take if you decide to sell the WOZ. The 5V system is, perhaps unfairly, looked down upon and is a factor in resale. FWIW I have a 7.5V system and will order the 2.0 swap kit as soon as it is available. Mostly because I think WOZ will be the cornerstone of my collection for a very long time to come and I haven't had the best experience with the current light system. I definitely think it is worth the xtra$ for the stability.

1 month later
#5022 2 years ago

yep play and yep hard to secure many times

1 month later
#5221 2 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

I remember seeing your posts about that. That was F--d up for sure.

What he said. No excuse for abusing a customer like that. -none-

#5227 2 years ago

Just making a wag here but have you tried to do a full install like what is described here:
You make a special usb.
Plug the USB in and then turn the machine on.
The USB should take care of installing the software.
With any luck this might help fix your BSOD.
This is what I would try.

#5240 2 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

Playfield protector? JJP does not ship with playfield protector. You should probably complain to whoever put that on the game. Freddie?

I ordered my RRWOZ from JJP with the playfield protector installed. I remember that when the protector was announced (before WOZ was actually shipping) there was a big push from JJP to sell them and one of the incentives to order it with your machine was to have it installed at the factory. I bought mine that way and I was happy with it till it got so scratched I couldn't tell if the playfield was getting destroyed below the protector. I thought maybe some fine grit had snuck between the protector and the playfield and it was grinding away. So I cut it off, surprising how difficult that task was, and the playfield was baby fresh and beautiful.

#5255 2 years ago

JJP decided to build state of the art, push the envelope pinball machines.
Their first effort, WOZ, knocked it out of the park. This machine is built well and is the reason machines are no longer being produced with incandescent bulbs. It is also the reason that video screens now come on any new pinball design and even the remakes are coming in color. None of this happened until after WOZ. I say credit where credit is due. There is much new tech in WOZ and to JJP's credit they didn't stop with their first design. When something failed they improved it. 2.0 is the third rev for the WOZ light system. This isn't the industry standard, this is exceptional behavior. We should be applauding not complaining. If you have the 7.5v light system you have a good and stable, not perfect, system that will continue to be supported with spare parts for a very long time to come. There is no reason to change to the 2.0 boards unless this is something that you want to do. How great is it that JJP is making this option available to us. There are lots of parts for the swap, boards, cables, and who knows what else. It is expensive to produce and will be time consuming to support. Not every WOZ owner has the skill and knowledge of LTG. Whose gonna support all us weekend warriors as we wade through this? You know who - JJP. Why am I considering taking on this monumental task? Because JJP has shown that they make good stuff and back it up with excellent service. I hope JJP keeps experimenting and pushing the boundaries. I support and want innovation in pinball and I am willing to pay for it.

#5257 2 years ago

JJP didn’t colorize DMD and ColorDMD is a huge improvement! but pre JJP, new machines were monochrome.
Since JJP elevated the hobby it’s color all the way. So much so that even the remakes are manufactured with color even though the originals weren’t.
When there was only one manufacturer game tech stagnated for roughly fifteen years.
JJP moved the goalposts.

1 week later
#5281 2 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

I believe the black rod and silver shooter housing are normal for the Ruby Red edition. At least MINE came that way. Can anyone else confirm?

Confirmed, The red shooter rod and housing were only on the promo picture. There was a guy semi linked to JJP that used to post here (pinchroma) that said he was going to do a run of ruby shooters and housings but he totally flaked and I respect that he didn't take any money but he really had a lot of us waiting for a long time for a big sack o' hot air.

#5282 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinbear:

I just got my WOZ 75th from Automated service. They told me the lightboad is 2.0 but the machine is v1.1 and made on 11/2016. I have the exactly same problem as the other Pinsider.
WOZ is my first pinball machine. But it arrived with black shooter rod and silver shooter panel. No 75th edition topper inside. Speaker buzzing is really annoying ( I have check the YouTube video and try to fix it but I found mine WOZ has different power supply and no filter inside. I think mine is a newer version without 2.0 light)

No excuse for abusing a customer like that. -none-

#5283 2 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

How do I know this? I'm the other guy who specifically asked Automated for a WOZ75 made after 12/15/16 (and I told them WHY I wanted this, too) and was told BEYOND A SHADOW OF A DOUBT that's what they had.....all new stock...right off the line at JJP....and that's what I'd get. Only after I opened it up did I see it was born on 11/29/16....TWO WEEKS before the changeover. When I called them to discuss, they got real standoffish and told me they can't control what box gets picked from the warehouse, and they can't tell when each unit was made, and then they LIED and claimed they never even promised me a newer 2.0 game.
Then, they stopped responding to my messages and emails. MIND YOU.....this was the SECOND pinball machine I had bought from them in one month's time. Great customer service, eh?

No excuse for abusing a customer like that. -none-

#5284 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinbear:

I got both response from Jack and Mike. They are working on it. Will keep you update.

Rest assured that JJP will make sure you are "made whole" so to speak. They are a great company that makes a great product and back it with great customer service. They want you to be happy with your purchase.

But to hear this story twice on the same title and trim level from the same distributor is very disappointing and also a good reminder to make sure you explore your options before buying.

There are many wonderful distributors out there like: (In no particular order) - Wisconsin - Pennsylvania - Colorado - Illinois - Michigan

There is a crazy long list of distributors for JJP here:

Give these people a call, if you get a tool on the phone take your business elsewhere. I guarantee you there are way more good distributors than bad ones.
These machines are expensive and you should be treated with courtesy.
When you get someone you like, research them on Pinside and the web. Get the feedback. Then buy your game.

In case you are wondering is the Games Division of Automated Services, LLC.,

#5291 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

The Chrome Candy set is pretty nice and looks good if you want a red housing and shooter knob, just be sure to put a stronger spring in it.

Is that their Cherry Red or Fireball?
If you could post a picture or two that would be appreciated.

Anyone use the Modfather RR shooter and housing ? Pics? Comments?

Also not to get too off topic but I see that Chrome Candy has painted leg bolts. Anyone have experience with these and can comment on how well the paint holds up to wrenching?

#5314 2 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

'm not wild about the POTC theme (game looks crazy fun though!) but I am super excited to see what's in store for JJP#5 and I absolutely will own a third JJP machine in the not too distant future!

You are not alone is being nonplussed by the license. But believe me and everyone that has played this game. It ROCKS! Its hard to understand just how awesome this game is until you get to flip it a bit. JJPOTC is the pinnacle of pinball technology and it is a blast to play.

I played it at TPF this past weekend and was blown away. I kept going back for more. Collectively over the weekend I spent hours in line waiting to get another turn. Hate the license but you are going to love this game.

#5318 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinbear:

Did you put the deposit on JJPOTC?

No, but it took every ounce of fiber in my soul to hold off.
I want to wait until the CE package is finalized before deciding between the CE & LE.
Then I will get in the queue.

2 weeks later
#5385 2 years ago
Quoted from Radius118:

So can anyone give me an idea of what kit is "best" for brightening up the game - especially in a dark room? The game is dark enough that I frequently lose track of the ball.
I know of the kit from and the pin stadium kit, but the pin stadium stuff seems a little overkill for what I am trying to accomplish.
Does anyone else make a "plug and play" kit that works well?
I was thinking of simply making some molex "Y" connectors and adding some additional spotlights to the GI circuit on top of the slings, etc.

I did the kit from Pinball Bulbs and that worked great with the under backbox and trough lights in addition to the spots. - Totally playable in the dark. The game should have come this way.

I then did the Pinstadium kit as well and that is more than enough. Absolutely amazing how bright your game will become with the Stadium rails. Only downside is that it is super good at illuminating dust on the underside of the glass too. If that kind of thing drives you nuts (like me) then I would suggest sticking to the pinballbulbs kits.

#5388 2 years ago
Quoted from Radius118:

They also stay on at all times too. Not sure if that's a bad thing or not when playing some of the "dark" modes on the game.

For me there is no joy in playing a game where it is so dark I can't see the ball. That is why I added extra lights. I fixed my Pinball Stadium rails so they are always on as well. This is just my personal preference.

1 month later
#5555 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Dont buy into the 2.0 hype, the 7.5v system works just fine.

As a RR owner that has had multiple issues with 7.5v system I wouldn't call it hype. Rather, I suggest this should be considered a YMMV situation.
Some lucky owners with 7.5V systems will never have any issues and for them I say the 2.0 isn't needed.
There are also some folks that like a continuous string of issues to be fixed. For those folks the 7.5v system may be a nonstop source of amusement.
But for people like me and the future downstream owners who will come to this issue completely oblivious to it, we stand to benefit a great deal by conversion to the 2.0 system.

Lastly if I was buying one today, I would insist on 2.0 or else make sure the price reflected a discount equal to the cost of the upgrade.

#5559 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Maybe this will help -
Loosen the nuts circled in RED allowing you to move the switches closer to the plate. Reach around the lifted playfield and tap the strike plate while moving the swiches closer. When you have the sensitivity you want, just tighten the nuts back down.
LTG : )

Be careful when you tighten the nuts.
It is pretty easy to break off the bolt from the bracket. Which will require a replacement of the entire bracket since the bolt is a non-removable part of the bracket.
Ask me how I know

1 month later
#5799 2 years ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

Go to acliffys Passion For Pinball. He makes all of order from hin.He is the best ana stays very busy. Check his site.

Cliffy don't do Winkie Targets.

#5807 2 years ago

I suggest you inventory your 2.0 kit when it arrives even if you aren't planning on making the swap immediately. Mine came missing a wire harness and I didn't find out till I had a 3 day weekend that I was going to use to make the swap. I knew that JJP would take care of me, (they always have, I can't say enough about the excellent JJP approach to service/support and their people, always top notch), I just wish I hadn't let it sit so long before I found out so I could have had the part in hand when I had the time.

2 weeks later
#5860 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I get all but one emerald all the time.
It's the rescue multiball one that is near impossible.

What he said.

But I wouldn't change it. When I do someday get over that rainbow, it is going to be amazing.

1 week later
#5912 2 years ago

^^what he said^^

3 weeks later
#5998 2 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

My Green lighting for the wizard is really there an easy way to turn that up? looks like there is a small LED strip lighting it?

Many have replaced this strip including myself. They quit working after a while. Totally worth replacing and it is a pretty easy swap.

#6000 2 years ago


#6001 2 years ago

Over the Labor Day weekend I installed the 2.0 light kit upgrade to my RRWOZ.
My machine came with the 7.5v light system originally.
This is a great kit.
3 cheers for Butch Peel making this a reality.
I followed the instructions and it worked. No trouble shooting. It just worked. Amazing
It took me around 20 hours to finish this project over three days. I also took this opportunity to rewire and rerun all the mods that I have on this machine so it tool more time than it would have if I hadn't taken on this extra work. But now it all looks cleaner when I raise the playfield.
If you are considering this I say do it. It wasn't hard just time consuming.

Some suggestions based on my experience:
As mentioned by DANGERTERROR (,
have the wiring diagrams (pages E-20 - E-25) from the WOZ manual ver 3.5 handy and the bigger the better. I displayed the manual on a 60" tv and it was extremely helpful. Especially the orientation of the single LEDs
Read all of the instructions relating to a step before embarking on a step. There are several steps with subsequent information that you will be glad you knew of before proceeding. (Ex. one step is to remove all the large boards, which I did, then I read after that each board should be replaced as removed and that removing them all without replacing them would make it more difficult to put the new boards in place. Fortunately, the pictures in the manual made it easy to put the new boards in place but I think you get my meaning. Read the whole step.)
You will need some 1/4" 8-32 SMS and brackets for mounting the new power supply to the rear of the lower cabinet. I used some plastic Plumber's Tape to strap it in place.
In the manual, on page E-23 Cable 8's part number is 19-3096-08. In the kit this cable is now 19-3096-09, there are 4 of them. Not a big deal but I relied heavily on the manual and this was the only disconnect between the manual and the kit that I found.
The kit comes with some #4 x 3/8" SMS but I didn't see any instructions on where to use them. Instead there are many callouts for the #4 x 1/2" SMS. I went and bought a bunch of #4 x 1/2" SMS but I think I should have been using the 3/8" SMS for the single LEDs (the ones with two mounting holes 15-0025-01) that get mounted directly to the playfield without standoffs. Again not a big thing but I would do it differently next time.
Also the kit included new plastic pop rivets. As it turns out I used the original ones, but after crawling across my garage looking for the original sleeve that fell and me wondering how I was going to proceed I found the bag with the new pop rivets and I almost cried. JJP had my back - I wish all companies were this thorough.

2 weeks later
#6054 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Pat:

My question is, "Did these machines always come with the printed manuals?" The person I received my game from said they never received one. I wonder if JJP has a record of this if they were sending them out after the fact or something?
Thanks for the tips.

No version of WOZ included the printed manual in the price. It has always been an add on.
Of course there are always exceptions and the WOZ manual is no different. Apparently at some shows the manual was being used as an inducement to buy, but that was a 'show' only deal.

Since the initial printing the manual has been updated and I haven't heard that an updated version was printed. The PDF version is very good especially if you can display it on a decent sized monitor. I used the pdf version displayed on a 60" monitor when I recently upgraded my light system to 2.0 and I never referred to the printed manual I bought. Being able to search the manual to find what I was looking for was very quick and efficient. Don't get me wrong I love my printed manual. Not to mention it makes a great coffee table book too. It is just beautiful.

#6058 2 years ago
Quoted from Lilpro66:

My RR WOZ came with the printed manual. Build date on my machine was 12/14/17.

The plot thickens:

Did you buy from a distributor or at a show?

#6061 2 years ago

Joe @pinballstar ,
Can you comment on manuals being shipped with WOZ(es)? is this something that makes you the best disti in the biz or are all the cool kids doing it?

1 week later
#6137 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

From the WOZ Forum
Loosen the nuts circled in RED allowing you to move the switches closer to the plate. Reach around the lifted playfield and tap the strike plate while moving the swiches closer. When you have the sensitivity you want, just tighten the nuts back down.
LTG : )

When re-tightening the nuts do so gingerly. I would even say don't use a ratchet wrench. It is very easy to break the little attachements and then the whole bracket needs to be replaced which is a bit of a pain.

#6138 1 year ago

The witch bash mech seems to be a weak point on this game. Has anyone come up with a good replacement? IMHO a better solution will instantly become a must have mod.

1 month later
#6345 1 year ago
Quoted from Palmer:

3. Do you think WOZ would complement my Hobbit or would it be too similar? (I know a subjective question)

completely different machines and game experience. The only similarities are quality of construction, excellent customer care from JJP and LTG as a tireless resource.

1 month later
#6431 1 year ago

My Crystal Ball no longer displays anything.
Is there a trouble shooting guide for getting this back on line?

#6434 1 year ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Anybody want this for a mod/topper/bottommer/sider/behinder?

Best behinder ever.

2 weeks later
#6556 1 year ago

If you are paying full price make sure you are getting 2.0.
It won't make a difference until it does.

#6588 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I think they put white rubber on the upper sling to get a little better action from a slow moving ball in that location.
White rubber is bouncer than black but doesnt last as long.

Another alternative is the GITD competition silicon ring from Titan. I think this color is perfect for most areas on the WOZ playfield and they seem to be plenty bouncy for that location as well as lasting at least as long as any other alternative. Here are a few pictures to illustrate.
GITD1 (resized).jpgGITD2 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#6603 1 year ago
Quoted from Gotfrogs:

I have been placing a folded towel on the other side to prevent it from resting on the baloon.

you are doing it right.

2 weeks later
#6759 1 year ago
Quoted from avspin:

Curious to know why. I bought my WOZ from them in Aug 2018 and the build date is Feb 2017. Do they hold on to them or get the left overs?

Can't stress enough why it makes sense as a home hobbyist to find another distributor.

From an earlier post a year ago:
But to hear this story twice (confirmed it was a 2.0 but received a 7.5) on the same title and trim level from the same distributor is very disappointing and also a good reminder to make sure you explore your options before buying.

There are many wonderful distributors out there like: (In no particular order) - Wisconsin - Pennsylvania - Colorado - Illinois - Michigan

There is a crazy long list of distributors for JJP here:

Give these people a call, if you get a tool on the phone take your business elsewhere. I guarantee you there are way more good distributors than bad ones.
These machines are expensive and you should be treated with courtesy.
When you get someone you like, research them on Pinside and the web. Get the feedback. Then buy your game.

In case you are wondering is the Games Division of Automated Services, LLC.,

#6762 1 year ago
Quoted from calfdemon:

I just checked mine... I bought it in March of 2017 direct from JJP. It has a build date of 2-23-17 and it's a 2.0. Thanks for the info...

Which Version? RRWOZ, ECLEWOZ, ...?

4 weeks later
#6886 1 year ago
Quoted from adol75:

Rare picture of a specie on the edge of extinction !


I agree with pinbear should have come up with a better solution for the witch bash. After the lights this has been the main source of frustration for me.

But I think the YBR is gorgeous. If I wasn't keeping my powder dry for JJP 5 & 6 I would be placing an order today and keeping both the YBR and RR side by side. I am thinking that if the YBR playfield is available a swap may be in order.

#6983 1 year ago

I am having an issue where at normal settings the characters voices are barely audible. All other sounds are clear and beautiful. Any ideas on solutions to this issue?

#6987 1 year ago

Thanks pinballomatic & coz6 you led me right to the problem.
In this case the plug went from the pink jack into a zip tied ball of wires where it plugged into another miniplug. The wire going to the female was bent and after a little wiggle wiggle the sound roared back to life. I will replace this cord if the issue returns but for now full speed ahead.
Thanks again for the timely assistance.

#6988 1 year ago

My crystal ball was dead. I tried the usual making sure the connectors were snug on the ball board and on the header board in the cabinet. Check, Check.
pulled out the voltmeter and read 5v coming off the dead board. My guess is the backlight was shot so replacement lcd board ordered from JJP.
Upon closer inspection this board looked like it might be available from another source. Google to the rescue and I had another one on the way from Mouser.

So JJP part arrives Saturday, Mouser part arrives Monday. I compare them and they are identical, even come in the same oem packaging.
insert memory into the Mouser part, turn on the machine, data about the LCD scrolls up and repeats. So LCD works but not how it is supposed to with WOZ.
Swap memory to JJP LCD, plug it in turn it on. Bingo Bango we have tone! Works great, better than original ever did.

Now I'm dying to understand why the Mouser LCD doesn't work properly and the JJP LCD does. Anybody know? Does the Mouser LCD have to be flashed to work with WOZ? Anybody do this or know how or even know if this is a thing? LTG, do you know?

Original LCD & Mouser LCD (Original is on the right (or top), you can see the hot glue.)

Photo Apr 01, 10 57 28 PM (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#7102 1 year ago
Quoted from thanhdlam1985:

Hey guys! I just purchased a brand new WOZ RR 75th anniversary pinball from Michael at

Once more with feeling:::

Can't stress enough why it makes sense as a home hobbyist to find another distributor.

From an earlier post a year ago:
But to hear this story twice (confirmed it was a 2.0 but received a 7.5) on the same title and trim level from the same distributor is very disappointing and also a good reminder to make sure you explore your options before buying.

There are many wonderful distributors out there like: (In no particular order) - Wisconsin - Pennsylvania - Colorado - Illinois - Michigan

There is a crazy long list of distributors for JJP here:

Give these people a call, if you get a tool on the phone take your business elsewhere. I guarantee you there are way more good distributors than bad ones.
These machines are expensive and you should be treated with courtesy.
When you get someone you like, research them on Pinside and the web. Get the feedback. Then buy your game.

In case you are wondering is the Games Division of Automated Services, LLC.,

#7153 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

If you go in and disable the flying monkey I'm guessing you'll see the video sequence / sound that those lucky ( ) YBR owners will get, if it's different at all.

To see the sequence I think you need the YBR dongle.

#7176 1 year ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

Ok guys. I ran the full 7.01 update again and the USB settings restore again and now the plunger shooter lane audio is back. VERY strange. It didn't even occur to me that the update needed to be re-run.

On a similar topic I discovered that using a different thumb drive made a difference and I had to reinstall the full code a couple of times on my Dialed In as part of solving my Phone display issues.

#7177 1 year ago
Quoted from adol75:

2000$ for a 10 seconds video, I think I’ll just keep my monkey !

Has anyone confirmed that there is a different Monkey Capture video on YBR editions?

At the reveal Jack mentioned that the video was there. I took this to mean the capture video still played to let you know that Dorothy had been captured as well as having the game tell that part of the story.
I thought he was trying to allay concerns that without the monkey moving to physically capture the ball you wouldn't be able to tell that the capture happened.

I don't know why they would have a specific YBR video when the standard video pretty much sums it all up.

Can anyone put this to rest? Is there a different video for monkey capture in the YBR edition?

1 week later
#7241 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Use rufus instead of unetbootin


#7258 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

My WOZ RR shipping soon, no radcals they dont make them anymore

Did they make Radcals for WOZ?

2 weeks later
#7445 1 year ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

On another note looks like I'll be selling my WOZ very soon.

The sooner you sell it the sooner you can buy it again.

1 week later
#7540 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Has anyone found touch up paint for the red powder coated RR stuff?

I heard this was a custom color.

This in the neighborhood but not the same.

a battle of reds (resized).jpg
#7589 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Looks like they mount higher up on the cabinet than they do on the older WOZs, I guess this is the new cabinet design. Are the legs now longer as well?

Legs are all the same length as they were before, just the mounts have moved.

#7592 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

So the game sits a little lower now unless you move the levelers up, interesting.

Just the front. I think the goal is to have approximately the right angle when placed on a level surface with the adjusters screwed all the way in.

#7601 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Damnit, my WOZ exploded... actually, there was a twister!
[quoted image][quoted image]


#7705 1 year ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Venting here more than anything. I spent over an hour last night trying to fine tune the witch target, and still it is not consistent. I tried bending the arms a bit on the switches, and then took to bending the brackets a bit. I thought I had it right only to realize that using my finger to activate the switch was different than using the ball, which apparently hits higher. So back to adjusting. Still, after an hour, it is very inconsistent. I can nail it dead center and it doesn't register. Sides seem to work a little better.
I feel like it's almost impossible to make it reliable. Please tell me I'm wrong....

I feel your pain. Someone needs to redesign this.

#7792 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

Did all the RR editions come with 2.0 lighting?

The RR started being built with the 7.5V boards. Then RR production moved to the 2.0 boards.

#7806 1 year ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Yes, you can order a kit for $800 from the JJP online store. It takes about 12-14 hours to do the upgrade. I’ve done it, and I’m not very mechanically inclined. There are good step by step instructions and plenty of support here on pinside.

I did this as well. The conversion kit is very good.

#7830 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

How can I tell if my game's lighting has been upgraded to 2.0?

This is what 2.0 looks like from under the playfield

1 month later
#8327 1 year ago
Quoted from Daditude:

Is anyone attempting a mod to improve or replace the munchkin huts?

Here is a new hut roof that looks great.

#8337 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Gotta do something about those black screws...
Funny enough, the huts dont bother me the way they are stock..
But further up in that thread... that Witch Cauldron looks great!

The cauldron does look excellent.
I tried reaching out a couple of months ago but got no response.

2 weeks later
#8469 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

How was the install on the Monkey Mod? Make me nervous to mess around with that as i finally have it working perfectly.

I was surprised at how much force was required to bend the rail to the left of the castle door and wiring/placing the LED strip was a bit 'squishy' for my taste. Overall though the installation is straightforward and the instructional video is helpful as well. Back to the question, you don't really 'mess' with the monkey mech as part of the installation. I would think that the chances of having your monkey become AFU as a result of installing this mod would be somewhere in the area of very slim to none.

#8527 1 year ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

Hi all.
A new software update for Wizard of Oz pinball is now available for download! Please note, Version 7.02 is a Full Install.
For the full change log:
To download:
[quoted image]

Yapple Dapple!

#8554 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Ok good to know. Thanks.
For the Toto outlane, i feel like the second "t" is always passed by due to deflection unless its rolling fairly quick..

This is probably why you can use your flippers to select which button is blinking.

#8596 1 year ago
Quoted from etien:

I am confused, how does the 'vitual flying monkey' works in the YBR edition? Is there some kind of computer animation instead of the physical elevator? ( I really dont understand why they dropped a toy like that and this is really refraining me from ordering)
Also, am I rigth to think that the rerun of the 75th anniversarty (preorder, v2.0) does have the "flying monkey" as well?

The ball is captured and stays on the magnet (on the playfield) while the video of Dorothy hitching a ride with the winged monkeys plays. Then the magnet releases the ball and it is business as usual. Except now the requirement to have Dorothy captured has been met and you can start rescue multiball by going to the castle, spelling RESCUE, bashing the door, etc....

Specs for the 75th Anniversary re-run haven't been released to the general public so it isn't known if the monkey will or will not be there. I think that an argument can be made for both approaches. It is my hope that they don't remove it.

It has been suggested that the cabinets used for the YBR edition were cabinets that were originally ordered for POTC then repurposed and the difference between the POTC and the WOZ cabinets prevented the Monkey mech from being included in the YBR edition. If this is the case, cabinet economics may drive the 75th A-R-R monkey decision as well.

#8598 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Do others have this much trouble with the left ball save?

It is challenging but very satisfying when executed successfully. I have found that the more often I play it the easier it gets and the more likely I am to complete it. That said, sometimes it is gonna drain regardless. In my book, that is pinball.

#8617 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

That I did not realize with the scoring. Funny, the other day I was thinking to myself.. "man, has anyone completed the 4 stages???"

As long as we are on this topic, is there a recommended setting for the Balloon Bumper to increase the chances of hitting all of the targets?

1 month later
#8895 1 year ago
Quoted from adol75:

So I guess (or hope) the RR limited edition numbers are not consecutive, mine, birth date November 2016 has number 1491.

The "Number of.." number on the special/limited edition plaques does not correlate to when it was produced.

#8904 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

I would consider the only LE of WoZ to be the ECLE and the direct print version being the ultimate version

I agree but have a preference for the RR. I think my ultimate version would be a mashup of the RR with the YBR playields and the direct print cabinet.
Of course the gouveia designed/built winged monkey and witch well would also need to be installed along with the cliffy munchkin playfield protector.

#8916 1 year ago
Quoted from Bearcat:

Are RR’s available NIB?

Great question. The lore has been that the NIB RR's were sold out. JJP has recently announced they are making more RR's. Depending on where you have sourced your game you are most likely getting one of the new run. If you are buying from The Pinball Company or Services you may be getting an older, yet still NIB RR.

Review the mfg date on your machine when you get it.
If you have something that was made this summer you are good. If you have something that was made in 2017 or earlier at a minimum you should demand your distributor and JJP provide you with the new 2.0 light boards. You shouldn't pay market price for the old version of the lighting system. I would go so far as to try not to unbox it until you know which version you get.

In general when buying NIB the best protection you can avail yourself of is buying from a proven home use distributor.

(Gets soapbox out of the closet and climbs on it.)

There is much history about dealing with a few large distributors - my advice is to avoid them. Instead deal with the folks below. They will do you right and will shoot you straight.

(In no particular order) - Wisconsin - Pennsylvania - Colorado - Michigan

Give these people a call, if you get a tool on the phone take your business elsewhere. I guarantee you there are way more good distributors than bad ones.
These machines are expensive and you should be treated with courtesy.
When you get someone you like, research them on Pinside and the web. Get the feedback. Then buy your game.

#8917 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Question about backing up your settings on a USB drive.
If I backup my info on a USB stick, can I use that same stick for updating the game code? Basically saying, the backup save data would be on the stick as well as the game code for installation.
Wasnt sure if the machine would get confused by that?

In the case of delta updates I have never had an issue using the same stick for both. But I do make sure that the USB is wiped before installing the delta update to it, then the backup, then install the update, then restore the backup.

In the case of a new image you definitely are going to want/need to use a second USB stick for the backup.

2 weeks later
#9048 11 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I used some needle nose pliers to grab the tip and pull through. Went quite easily with a little light wiggling.

I just push the tip through the hole and using the flesh of my thumb rub the nub back and forth till it pops through.

#9050 11 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

And then a cold shower? Or does it progress from there?

Just a nibble on the nubble..

o (resized).jpg
1 month later
#9367 10 months ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Curious question...I have two drilled out holes on one of my ramps and nothing attached to this location. This is on a brand new RR.
Can anyone tell me what they are for or what they were once used for?[quoted image]

Looks like the perfect place for a switch until you decide to either move it back or eliminate it. Then you are just stuck with holes.
Also an innovative way to save shipping costs by cutting weight.

#9382 10 months ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

[quoted image]

Look again. It may have been used for the twister on the prototype but this picture shows the twister is mounted on the other side of the ramp from the holes in question.
Capture1 (resized).jpg

1 month later
#9556 9 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I have an issue once in a while where my ball gets stuck under the munchkin playfield. I cant see what it gets hung up on. A little rocking of the machine back and forth sets it free... Anyone have any ideas?

Probably getting stuck where the ball is returned after going through the OZ lanes. The area below the OZ lanes doesn't have mylar but where it rejoins the orbit there is mylar. This results is a 'ball trap' when a ball plunged lightly enough doesn't have enough momentum to overcome the mylar ridge. I have this happen all the time and it is an annoyance for sure. I reach up and shake the machine up near where the ball is stuck to clear it. If you can get to the side of your machine near the back box and look it is fairly easy to see the ball just sitting there waiting for your nudge to get it rolling again.

I have seen a fix for this (probably in this thread) where mylar was applied below the OZ lanes area, effectively eliminating the lip. It looks like it would be difficult to do a nice job of this without one of those craft cutters. BTW if someone is willing to do make some mylar that fits this area, count me as your first customer.

#9560 9 months ago
Quoted from adol75:

There’s an opto under the castle on the left orbit. Did you test if it registers well ?

Good call, the optos pop out sometimes and is a super easy fix to pop them back in.

#9568 9 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I thought it was the mylar edge, but mine is perfect.
Its true that a failed mylar would do this.
But in most cases it's a slipped rubber.
It's the rubber to the left of the mylar, and up a little to the left.
It's a little hidden, and hard to notice unless you know what you are looking at.
It slips up off its notch.
This makes a little corner that the ball can rest in.
Action from the sling does it.
I have had to slip it back down a couple times now.

I will check this tonight. Thanks for the tip.

#9590 9 months ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

I made a trial today.
Had 4 balls severely magnetized.
20 min in an aluminium sheet in the embers in the stove.
Balls are completely normal now except one thing..[quoted image]

That is cool! Are you gonna start making these ? I'll take a set.

3 weeks later
#9661 8 months ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Installed my OZ lanes mod and love it![quoted image]

Best picture to date of this mod.

#9672 8 months ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Since you mentioned photos and I had the glass off today, I took a few more of the OZ lanes mod and changed the settings to a higher quality.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Still to close.
Instant desolation.

2 months later
#9951 6 months ago
Quoted from JosiahCox:

a quick estimate for current going costs for a RRWOZ

8,500 should be more than enough to get a RRWOZ in great shape.

FWIW AFAIC Lightly Routed = HUO = NOOB = Low Plays = Only X# of Games = Total BS Hype Marketing Language

3 weeks later
#10074 5 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I would think something is loose somewhere. Check the connections to the metal box in the cabinet. One time I pulled mine slightly and the voices went very quiet.

I'm with Rager on this one.
My audio cord needs jiggling sometimes(probably should replace it) but jiggling works for now. The jiggling has to occur where it is connected to the extension for me, as opposed to right at the pc input.

3 weeks later
#10199 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I thought $7500 was a stretch for the red anniversary edition back when i ordered my ECLEWOZ for $6500...
I just preferred the green, which is odd since im red/green color-blind lol...
With all matts mods and steves mods, i wont sell it.
It plays like a dream!

The 6.5 ECLE was long gone by the time I jumped in. I ponied up cash in fall of 2011 and the ECLE was selling for 7.5K at that time.
Then at the end of 2013 they announced the 75th anniversary RRWOZ for 9k, 7 years ago. The option that is cutoff was invisiglass for an extra 250.

I wouid love to know if anyone got a NIB RRWOZ for 7.5K
Capture4 (resized).jpg

#10222 4 months ago
Quoted from johnnyutah:

Automated / has their Ruby Red WoZ advertised here on Pinside Market for $10,500 now as well. $450 for shipping.
Would love to snag but I just can’t bring myself to pay the 1k for nothing. I could use that 1k to support some of the mod community and snag some of the mods I would want. Hopefully they come down back to the $9500 soon. If they do I will bite. Until then, nope.

Do yourself a favor and avoid Automated Services /
Pinside is filled with horror stories of people dealing with them.
Many involve RRWOZ.

To be fair a lot of people have had good experiences as well with this company but based on what I have heard and seen with their bait and switch tactics I say skip the grief. You really don't want a machine that bad.

#10240 4 months ago
Quoted from johnnyutah:

That said, going through Pinside search, definitely mixed reviews.

Compare them to KingPin Games, Abel Electronics or PinballSTAR not even close. Automated is probably the largest distributor period.
But if you are a private owner, you want to go with one of these companies. Best reps in the biz.

#10258 4 months ago
Quoted from Noma2017:

I have a Wonka CE (my only game). Would you recommend WOZ YBR, DI LE or Pirates LE for another machine. I love Wonka and have a two kids aged 6 and 9.

Yes, yes and yes.

#10260 4 months ago
Quoted from Noma2017:

Can only get one.

Well if you are focused on the kids, let them pick.
They are all great games but there is no clear winner.
DI is amazing but will probably not have as much kid appeal because of the theme.
POTC is way way way overpriced and if you buy one used you may run into one with playfield clear chipping/pooling issues.
YBRWOZ is spectacular but also overpriced and missing one of the great features of the game (the flying monkey.)
Back to where I started you won't go wrong with any of them but they have their downsides.

#10324 4 months ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Is this a feature?
I have balls that get stuck behind the target all of the time and sometimes behind a ball in the saucer and the target never drops on its own to release them.

The Winkie target should drop on a ball search. This is most definitely a bug but I tend to think of it as a secret multi-ball extender/multi-drain preventer.

#10328 4 months ago
Quoted from jorant:

when I'd get there's no place like home, the flippers used to flip on their own before launching the ball. Now they don't?

The game was designed for the ruby slippers to flip 3x randomly, not every time.

#10336 4 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Mine does it randomly. But why would they choose to make it random? I like having them do it. Especially for those who come over to play as they arent familiar with the machine and people seem to have a hard time following where the ball is once going to upper playfields.

By not doing it every time it adds a bit of delight to the game as opposed to yet another thing that you soon ignore due to repetition.
Much like the silhouettes flying in front of the DI moon at the match screen. Sometimes there is a silhouette but most times not. I find I watch the moon like a hawk, just in case

#10341 4 months ago
Quoted from adol75:

I always though it had to do with the Ruby Slippers being lit or not in the TNLPH outlane, but since it had no impact aside for the flippers to flip I never paid attention on how to get them to flip or how to actually light the outlane.

You are correct. The slippers never flip unless the TNPLH is ready to go.

You have to light all the targets in order to start TNPLH. I am guessing that if all the targets are lit but not collected by a left drain(think multiball) this would light the outlane slippers. But it is just a guess at this point.

2 weeks later
#10458 4 months ago
Quoted from Kkoss24:

I’m ordering new balls tomarro also

Don't get the expensive balls. They magnetize very quickly.

You might take a look at this sight I just found on a google.
Can't speak to them as a retailer (anybody had experience with Ball Baron?) but there is some good info.

#10463 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Its a 2" white rubber.
It fits very tight along the flat rail and is subject to getting cut and then breaking.
You can replace it with a black rubber for better durability, but it will have slightly less ball action.

I've had great experience and durability with Titan Competition Silicone Rings.

1 week later
#10544 3 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I’m seeing stuck balls on the right orbit just above the munchkinland where there is a right angle metal rail there. I do not believe the balls are magnetized - they are brand new from Titan - common issue?

This happens on my RRWOZ with a medium to soft plunge. The ball will stop at the mylar edge. Some have gone ahead and mylar'd the whole area below the OZ lanes to solve the problem.
I have also seen posts that there is a rubber that is doing the blocking.
I just lean forward and with my hands on either side of the machine right where the ball is and give it a good side to side shake. This frees the ball without tilting.

#10548 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

and the mylar is flat and smooth.

Mine is flat and smooth as well. Do you have to remove the playfield to find/fix the rubber?

#10550 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I have readjusted it a couple times now.
The sling action is what moves it up from the constant bouncing.
You do not have to remove anything to push the rubber down!
Just poke your finger in there and shove it back down or use a smooth probe of some sort.
I use a lot of Popsicle sticks and wooden spoons as tools.

I'm gonna give it another shot. It would be great to have this solved.

#10551 3 months ago

Here is the corner where it hangs and I don't see where the rubber should be. Just a GI light post.
What am I missing?

IMG_1214 (resized).JPG
#10561 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Thats a very different corner than what I was referring to.
Mine was under the munchkin playfield.
That one is easily corrected by raising the rear leg levelers and setting a playfiled pitch of 6.3 to 6.6 degrees I think.
Adjust flipper power so that either flipper can make the ramp from a cradled posistion and have the ball slow down slightly at the top.
It should decelerate up the ramp and smoothly yet consistantly roll through.
too fast and the ball flies off the wireform or pushes thru the lock bar.

To my surprise my playfield was at 6 degrees. I have raised it to 6.6 degrees and two games at this new angle didn't produce a hanging ball. This issue may be solved. Thanks pinballinreno and bobukcat.

On flipper strength where do you stand regarding the crystal ball Weak Flippers mode and the ability to make the ramp from a cradled position? My guess is this should not be able to happen. Thoughts?

1 week later
#10632 3 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Frequently on a plunge, I hear a metal smack of the ball striking something. From my vantage point I can't see what it is.
Normal / expected WOZ behavior?

My WOZ plunger used to eat rubber tips like crazy. I finally replaced it and no longer have this issue. Anyway when the metal of the plunger hit the ball it was more of a click or plink sound than a smack. Just an idea.

#10633 3 months ago

Does anyone know the JJP parts phone number and if they are back in business after the C19 & Move close?

#10673 3 months ago
Quoted from eb94114:

Last night I was playing a few games, and the lights looked a bit dimmer across the playfield. When I got to Toto Escapes, there was some faint yellow/white lights on the playfield, which I have never noticed before. There never seemed to be any lights on except for the flashing white indicating the Toto ramp shot. It all played fine, just seemed a bit weird.

This is normal, I don't know how to describe the type of color other than refer to it as the quality of the light. When you get the second Toto shot there is a similar quality of the light but it is green. I really dig the light modes on this machine.

Quoted from eb94114:

Also, sometimes when the game is in attract mode, sitting idle, the lights on the playfield are the usual colors. Another day I have it on and they are the florescent type seen in the Lights On Crystal Ball mode. Is that typical

The attract modes are always changing. As long as they are changing (doesn't get stuck in a single mode) you are good to go. This game is a kick to watch even when it isn't being played.

1 month later
#10939 59 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

What's the deal with the bonus multiplier? Is there something that has to be done for the multiplier to be available? I can complete both lanes and get nothing, fairly often, it seems, but I can figure out what has to be done to "activate" it again. I'll get 3x and 4x and have no idea what was different about the lane completion those times.

The bonus multiplier is always available to be advanced until you reach the maximum multiplier level (I think max is 10x but not sure). To go to the next level you need to roll two Oz lanes. You can switch which lane is lit with the flippers, making it possible to advance the multiplier by rolling the same lane twice (thanks to the slingshot under the munchkin playfied.) first time through light the lane, then users flippers to change the lit lane and second time through both are lit and the bonus advances. It may be possible that the bonus advance will happen without the graphic displaying due to the screen being tied up with other graphics/displays. So don't think you didn't get the bonus advance just because the video didn't play.

#10946 59 days ago
Quoted from Pinball69:

What else is there to buy???

If your machine doesn't have one, get the cliffy munchkinland playfield protector and install it before plunging your first ball.

1 month later
#11242 14 days ago

Thank god the monkey is missing or all of our Red & Greens would have lost $value.

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