(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • 15,286 posts
  • 754 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by Don_C
  • Topic is favorited by 331 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (10 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (7 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (5 years ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (5 years ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (5 years ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (5 years ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (4 years ago)

Post #11015 Adjustment advice for the monkey Posted by LTG (3 years ago)

Post #12537 7.03 Code Release Posted by bobukcat (2 years ago)


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#2913 7 years ago
Quoted from agodfrey:

I'm not sure how I missed this conversation less than a month ago. Wow. Well good news is we have time. Best time to prep for an asteroid strike is before you see it.
So I'll keep looking to see if anyone comes up with something of a solution or....order 100 from China!!
We are smart folk. We'll figure it out. In the mean time I can dream.
Thanks for puttibg me on track!

Time for Rottendog to start making JJP boards!

1 week later
#2963 7 years ago

My WoZ was delivered today and it's mostly in perfect condition. One glaring issue though is with the monkey. When he goes down to pickup a ball the mech slides along two grooves in the wood and makes a loud and horrible screeching noise. If I put a little weight on the monkey bracket the noise doesn't happen. I'm guessing I'll either have to adjust the monkey somehow or maybe the wood needs to be sanded a little bit to make more space. Any thoughts?

#2967 7 years ago

Thanks for the tips. I almost want to keep the noise because it makes the monkey scary as shit!

#2970 7 years ago

Anyone know if this list is still useful for games built in the past few months?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-check-list

#2975 7 years ago
Quoted from Manimal:

Before you start to sand anything, take a close look at the motor and the slip clutch..

Thanks for the tip, right now it seems to be happening less and less and sometimes not at all. Might be fixing itself!

2 weeks later
#3015 7 years ago

You could always use an LED that's not as bright.

2 weeks later
#3132 7 years ago

Quick question: Is the 75th Anniversary topper supposed to light up? I just received mine (was back ordered) and sadly it was broken in transit. I decide to take a look at the mount and I didn't notice any LEDs and the topper didn't come with anything... Is this normal?

#3134 7 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

I believe it is, if you look 3 posts up that a RR and it appears to have lights at the topper

Yeah I just noticed that after I posted!

I have the topper bracket installed but there doesn't seem to be any wiring or lights anywhere. The broken topper they sent me also didn't come with any wiring or LEDs. I've contact JJP already for a replacement so I'll ask them what's up.

#3136 7 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

The LED strip should probably be in the bracket, and the wire connects down at the bottom left in the back of the cabinet with a molex connector if I remember correctly.

OK I'll have to get on a step ladder or lower the head to get a closer look. Since the topper wasn't shipped with the game I'm wondering if they may have missed some other parts to it. There's definitely no light leaking out of it and I slid the broken half of the topper into position and it did not light up.

#3143 7 years ago
Quoted from John566:

I'm planing on ordering a RRWOZ later today. Do most people order these directly from JJ? Do they offer free shipping or discounts of any kind? Thank you!

I ordered through PinballStar but it still ended up being a factory order. Was built and shipped directly from JJP. No delays at all, arrived faster than I thought it would!

#3144 7 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Double check the setting for topper brightness as well, it shouldn't be turned off but it's still something to double check.

I don't see a topper brightness setting anywhere in any of the settings. Perhaps it doesn't show up if the game doesn't sense the topper lights are plugged in... Will inspect it all later today and see what's up.

1 week later
#3185 7 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Decided to see how hard I could make this game, not because I'm killing it or have even gotten to SWOTR but just to see, so I opened the right outlane all the way and basically set every setting as difficult as it can be. HOLY HELL! The Toto outlane when opened all the way up is an incredible black hole that sucks every semi-wild ball straight down it. My buddy and I played a bunch of games and I was shocked at how poorly we were doing. I finally managed a game over 600K but most of them were too embarrassing to mention. I just can't believe how hard this game can be to play when purposely setup to be that way. It's hard to even come up with a controllable way to launch the ball, nevermind a skill shot!

I have mine setup this way and I think my highest score is around 600k. I finally killed the witch for the first time tonight and it was amazing!

I definitely think it's more fun to play when it's hard. Crank up the bumpers and kickers and it's hard to keep up with everything. I do let the game hand out a lot of extra balls though. You gotta earn your long games!

1 month later
#3631 7 years ago

Changed up my shooter thanks to PinballPlatingAndMore. Came out great!

IMG_0966 (resized).JPGIMG_0966 (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
#3706 7 years ago
Quoted from thunder001:

Does anyone know where you can purchase the 5 pin led data cables used on the light boards in WOZ? I would like to get some spare ones for the future to be able to by pass bad boards if I have one again in the future?

Try JJP. They tend to have fair prices on all their spare parts.

1 month later
#3912 6 years ago

I'm working on modding my haunted forest trees and am wondering where I should grab power for the LED eyes? I noticed the wozmods version comes with its own power source. I'm guessing I can just tap into the 7.5v GI/LED via one of the nearby boards. I probably just answered my own question but if anyone has any other advice/experience let me know.

#3917 6 years ago

I think the LEDs I'm using are 6v. They light up fine with a 9v battery, would the 12v from the cabinet be okay too? I guess they'd just run brighter and maybe burn out sooner...

Thanks for steering me away from getting power from the main LED loop, I don't want to stress the already stressed LED boards.

#3920 6 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Good thing eyes come in pairs!
You can wire both 6V LED in series into your 12V supply, & each LED will see 6V.
Overvolting LEDs often leads to really short life.
-Jason

I'll remember this tip for the future! I checked my old receipts and saw that the LEDs I'm using are indeed 12V so there should be no problems.

8 months later
#5099 6 years ago

Hi guys, Satan here, just wanted to let you know how I setup my WoZ. Turned off the ball saver. Limit the game to two extra balls that are quite difficult to earn. Took the middle STDM prevention post out. Moved the outlanes to their widest positions. Changed the ruby slippers with lightning flippers.

The game is now truly evil and incredibly rewarding when you achieve some of the deeper modes.

#5103 6 years ago
Quoted from Radius118:

There is a term for that. It's called: masochism

For me it's more about increase challenge vs reward than anything to do about pain. With the game setup very easy I'll play for 10 minutes, still have three balls left, and be bored. With the game setup extremely challenging, if I even have a 10 minute game it feels like I just won an Olympic gold medal. For me personally long games just become a boring grind.

Not trying to say one play style is better than the other, just pointing out different perspectives.

#5108 6 years ago

Has anyone replaced their ATX power supply fan or the PSU itself due to their high noise levels? Any recommended PSU or fan choices to bring the noise levels down?

#5110 6 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Agreed, if you want a fast, brutal game there are plenty of options and most are a lot cheaper than a WOZ (IM, TNA and F14 immediately come to mind but there are lots of others).

Fast and brutal WoZ is what I want and I love it.

For what it’s worth I’m not trying to sell “WoZ should be harder” to anybody. I was just sharing my own feelings on my own setup.

3 years later
#12613 2 years ago

Has anybody with a noisy PSU inside their game replaced it? I'm talking about the one that powers the PC. It's super loud in my Ruby Red compared to the ones in Dialed-In or MMR.

Did you use a replacement from JJP? Order a new PSU from NewEgg? I can handle the task of replacing it I just want to get the right style of PSU and also one that's super quiet!

Thanks for any help.

1 month later
#12688 2 years ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Just grabbed a WOZ standard "project" machine. I say project because it is partially disassembled and missing a few parts. I haven't done an exhaustive list of what all is missing and that may take a good while. For now though, I know the CPU/computer is not present along with the security dongle. I emailed JJP support about getting one of those. Can anyone provide some info on sourcing a new PC? I am very familiar with building/repairing PC's. Is there a specific chipset required? I saw H61 which is pretty old at this point. Can I grab something more modern and load that up? I would love to put in a faster SSD or even NVMe drive if possible.

Factory already uses an SSD and an NVMe wouldn't really boost much. The only time you have to wait for loading is when turning the game on and it's pretty fast.

I don't know about using a newer mobo, but I do know you'll need to get the power supply from JJP if it's not in your cabinet. Hopefully it is since it's pricey. It's just a standard ATX PSU but it has a fully customized wiring harness. I tried replacing it with a quieter and more robust modular one but it was a non-starter.

Compatibility is going to be king here, you don't need to juice up the PC to improve loading speeds or frame rates or anything like that. And unfortunately older parts tend to be pricier too.

#12695 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

This actually worries me. If dongles go bad, what happens in the future if JJP isn’t around to replace them? Hopefully they will be, but could a third party provide replacements if not?

No need to worry, someone will figure out how to copy them and make new chips if it becomes necessary.

#12698 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Is that possible? I assume the encryption is strong.

What I'm saying is... Don't worry about it.

What is your worry gonna achieve?

In the event that JJP shuts down, they could release the code officially - or an employee could dump it on the internet unofficially.

Indeed any number of things could happen that would end with the result that you can still buy the security dongles or bypass them somehow. Do I know exactly which one will happen? No. But history shows that it will indeed happen. Check out K's Arcade website and see all the things you can buy for Williams and Bally machines that would have been impossible years ago.

If there is a demand, it will be met. Don't worry bro.

1 month later
#12864 2 years ago

What's the best email to contact at JJP to get on the 2.0 lighting list? Thanks!

1 year later
#14783 10 months ago

I am about to embark on the 2.0 board installation and was wondering if the current instructions shipped with them are all you need or if there's a post with some additional info/tips. The instructions are marked July 2022 and I know some early adopters of the kit had issues with missing steps or incorrect instructions.

Thanks!

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