(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

9 years ago


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  • 15,243 posts
  • 751 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by meSz
  • Topic is favorited by 331 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (9 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (7 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (4 years ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (4 years ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (4 years ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (4 years ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (4 years ago)

Post #11015 Adjustment advice for the monkey Posted by LTG (3 years ago)

Post #12537 7.03 Code Release Posted by bobukcat (2 years ago)


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#7818 4 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

I think what they were talking about was the color tint depending on the type/model/PN/spec of the LED used (although, being an RGB LED I would find that odd, but I'm no expert). If your saying it started out bright white, and then later turned yellowish, that would be pretty strange.
However, this topic is being beat to death, lol. Time for a beer.

As i said in another thread. Led's are sensitive to voltage drop, and White require The most power.
If lights start to change from White, i would bring my trusty old volt-meter.

2 weeks later
#7889 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I'd like to get the tornado lit up.. I have an idea for where to place the light but I really wanted it activated by the spinning house. I have an idea for that too, unless someone has done it? My phone makes everything look way more purple than it does and way more bright..
Video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/LY8hchY6SP7oozLx5
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
And THIS is how you work on a game!
[quoted image]

Just check what the voltage is on the motor spinning the house. If it's twelve or five volts just parallell-couple a led highlighting the twister. If it's more volts, just serial couple a resistor in that led-parallell line.
The extra load on the board feeding should be negligable.

Btw i think your game looks great. Well done.

#7923 4 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Ok i tried 5, 6,7,8... when I connected to 5 got a quick little blink and out... the rest nothing... then I noticed this... crazy frayed ends on the W2 Connector, this can not be good ... I mean all the leads are touching, but it actually looks like a few of the longer connectors are just like this one? ltg
[quoted image][quoted image]

Just out of interest, since i don't own the game (yet).
Seems to be four wires?
Is it so that same clusters can do different colored Light, but all do the same color in that cluster?
Are Theese boards only routing Light-wires?
12 or 5 volts?

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#7928 4 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

The pre 2.0 light systems (doesn't matter which one) are all serial communications which means the data flows from one board to the next to the next and so on. There are no "clustering" of light colors, each board is full RGB and completely independent of the other boards as far as what color is being produced but the serial nature is what causes the bigger problems. One board can cause a whole bunch of others to do bad things like be completely dark or flicker rapidly. The very first ones were 5V and were pretty quickly switched over to 7.5V boards until the 2.0 light system was released, I'm not sure what the voltage is on those.

Thanks for the reply. Much appriciated.
So are all the lights on the same board, presenting the same color all the time?
(i realize they can change color, but can they change color induvidually, or only within the same group?)

2 weeks later
#8062 4 years ago
Quoted from JoshODBrown:

Just in case anybody else needs some help with pinball matrix debugging, I found this video very useful in understanding the basic concept of how the matrix works. I always had sort of an idea how it worked on a perfect system, but was not familiar with how stuff can go whacky if a diode goes out.

Thanks for the post. Easy to understand and the most amazing thing is that they still use such ancient technic.

2 months later
#8902 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

To complete the above, I personally don't care if they stick to 1500 units or not, I didn't buy my RR because it was limited, I bought it because it was the last NIB WOZ that I could find.
Also I think limited has value for very limited games like Alien, TBL, BBB etc... I don't think it changes anything in resell value when produced in thousand(s)

The more the better sparepart wise for the future.

4 weeks later
#9199 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Standard is fine. Almost any of the things you can add on later. Biggest question is going to be 2.0 lighting and if you want the specific look of one of the editions. If you can find a SE with 2.0 lighting in good condition, go for it. But you can also get a green edition (from automated) new... so might be an option.
The RR toys are available from Backalley Creations. The ECLE has the cool green wood apron, on top of the color of the whole thing.

If you order a new one, how can you be sure it comes with the new lightboards?
For example does all RR come with the new stuff, or are there things that may need to be fixed or replaced?

I just dont know here in europe, there may be so that games are stored for future sales, so you may get an "old" nib.

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