Does anyone know who has the WOZ target decal set on ebay [papakahuna], is he a pinsider under another name? Says that he/she is from Winnipeg.
Quoted from adol75:
What took me the longest time was the back and forth trips to the hardware store to find the right tool. Screw driver wouldn't pass, wrench was too long etc...
I would surely be interested in getting a list of must have tools from the Woz veterans
What was the one that worked for you in this instance?
Has anyone had this happen?
My buddy was playing, went to hit the ball but held the flipper button in and by fluke, it stopped the ball on the tip. It's bizarre as the ball is actually beyond the tip. It stayed put and I took a half dozen pics.
Curious to know however, what are the changes in boards and tech? The current and older hardware (driver board etc...) seems like it is possible to repair as it has larger components. If everything is downsized and uses more SMDs, then it starts to close the door on local repair. Depending on the quantity of new WOZ pins that are made, it could also mean that there would be less of the newer 'tech' available if they stop manufacturing WOZ, sooner than later. Can they produce this 'indefinitely', license wise? That would be cool and might address my concern.
This is a bit of a repeat but might help someone else in their decision regarding their lighting issue or it will completely confuse the poor individual
As the 2.0 kits are currently, and at available at a reduced price, I have just ordered one. Others are completely right in justifying the cost right now. I purchased my ECLE 8 months used, back in the day, and eventually had light issues with a single board here and there and then a few more etc... I had an opportunity to get a complete 5V buffered set from JJP and moved on it. Replaced everything and sent the old ones back, essentially just covered one way of shipping (thank you JJP). I have had zero issues to date but have been recently looking at options for the future as I will keep a WOZ in my collection.
I will get the kit and if I don't have to send the old boards back, I will just sit on it for a bit. Some have suggested installing the 2.0, document that the older boards are still functional and sell them used to recoup some cash, great idea!
I am also now looking at new and used 2.0 WOZ options. I have checked with a couple of Canadian distributors and there are currently no WOZ pins available until the new year, production on hold due to POTC being run etc... I might list mine locally up until Christmas to see if anyone is interested, with or without the 2.0 kit as it is completely functional as is. Curious to see what the delta on selling and purchasing a replacement (and newer edition WOZ) would be. If it is feasible then why not, if not I just stay with what I have and keep on truckin'.
That said, I noticed in pictures from the Chicago Expo that at least one distributor had a new WOZ at a reduced show price of $9K USD ($495 saving). Does anyone know if this price is still being offered somewhere?
A used 2.0 pin would be of interest as well, especially if closer to me; IE: Michigan, states side or almost anywhere this side of the border.
Quoted from pinballinreno:
I have 9000+ plays on my game.
It's in near perfect shape...
...I'm thinking of getting a populated playfield from JJP and dropping it in, plus a faster computer to get faster load times.
At the very least I'll get the 2.0 boardset and install the new mainboard and i5 CPU.
Holy heck! What would a completely populated PF field run you? With the list of things you have summarized, why not just sell it and find another? (unless you were a day 1 owner at the $6K or $6500K price, then that might explain it.
Received my full 2.0 upgrade kit this week!
If I have only one complaint so far it was that the kit was not shipped as a 'warranty replacement' (classification) item and unfortunately us Canucks end up paying tax and handling on the full declared value which cost me an additional $70. Not cool when this is easily considered a necessity and not a 'nice to have'.
JJP, please keep this in mind when sending items to Canada. I don't mind paying where required by this is easily preventable when selecting the content type. This is what was done for me after my first warranty replacement item(s) were sent to me a couple of years ago.
Hopefully this helps others, ensure that you ask.
I had a call into support and connected with Butch today. He said that they were running thin and he was helping out. Great guy and was very helpful indeed!
That said, I can finally say that I've successfully installed my WOZ 2.0 LED kit. There was a small issue with a hair thin line of solder shorting two solder pads on the back of the COMMS board (board with all of the RJ45 Ethernet connectors on it). It was literally preventing any of the new LEDs from lighting up. Each of the large PCBs had a single greed 'GOOD' LED on but nothing else on for the 2.0 system. Amazing that something so tiny can shut everything down.
I have taken a lot of pics of my work, made notes of discrepancies that I had with the instructions, some of which others have pointed out and noted which of the items were a challenge, IE: RJ45 cable(s) being too short etc... (the white coiled patch cable at the top in the photo will be replaced with a 2' as the included 1' would not reach the COMMS board)
I will have to go through the pics and thin this out as there are too may. That said, not sure if I should share my thoughts and finding here or not. Without a doubt, if anyone is on the fence about the kit, just do it. It's a killer upgrade and I will actually have to go in to see if I can reduce the brightness as these sit closer to the inserts and are just simply brighter. The other thing that I found is that my pin seems to be over powered now, as in all of the coils are running at an increased power. Odd but the pin is super fast right now.
I chose to take extra time and remove everything that would no longer be used in my WOZECLE, full harnesses etc... without cutting or damaging any of it. I now have a fully functional 5v buffered system that I will take pics of, bundle up and put on the market. I've had zero issues with that previously upgraded system, just wanted to move to the 2.0 while it was at the reduced pricing.
Quoted from LTG:
Butch ( Peel, the manual guy ) is great. Glad you were able to figure that one out !
LTG : )
Yes exactly, another great guy, just like you
I was very happy as I thought that it might the the BAG PCB. They way that we isolated the 'NO LED' root cause was by simply plugging in single large LED board (via it's RJ45 port) directly into the BAG board's RJ45 port, bypassing the COMMS board all together, this was disconnected/connected while the power was off. This single large PCB (and it's satellite LED PCBs) worked without issue after booting up. I then powered down and tried to patch from the BAG PCB -> COMMS as expected but with only a single large board connected to the COMMS (via RJ45), powered up and it didn't light up. Tried another couple of ports, same result. Butch said that it looked to be a faulty COMMS board. But after discussing the simplicity of the board and its traces; how all of the ports are just wired (traced) in parallel, he said that maybe there is a short of some sort. I wiggled the connectors and finally checked the whole thing under a magnifying glass and the second time I noticed an extremely tiny thread of solder shorting pin 1 (square GDN pad) and a round pad (pin 2, of the same port), you can see below how that would short those two traces across the whole PCB.
Here's a pic from his manual that I've just looked up. (KILLER manual, if I haven't already said it a few times now)
Quoted from Wanderers:
How long did it take to do the change over, I am contemplating buying the new
kit, but dreading doing it?
Yes, others have said up to 12 hours. Initially I thought that if I read through the instructions that it might take less but once I decided to start, I realized that I would be very particular and just take whatever time was needed for me to be happy. I did it over the course of a week so probably many more hours than necessary but totally worth the time.
Curious, have you had board issues? If so, doing this just takes the anxiety away of worrying about 'what next?' or 'when?'. If your WOZ is a keeper, do it. (Or sell and purchase new or gently used with 2.0)
Folks, what has been some of the ways to fix the release of balls from the munchkin lock?
I think that I have tried everything.
IE: bending the small resting tab underneath the lock bar which holds the balls back (the lock bar which raises and lowers with the coil). I have bent this down and up, both in varying amounts. Basically resulting in the arm letting the first ball through and the arm sitting on top, or slightly top front of the next ball, or letting them through. Note: if I bend the tab to allow the arm to almost sit on the plastic subway then the first ball seems to cup into the backside of the face of the arm and the coil won't pull up the arm. I have put tape across this opening to see if the position of the arm solves the release of multi-balls but it does not.
There is a coil setting for the release timing of balls 1,2 and 3 when locked and releasing them for multiball. I don't believe that has anything to do with what I need. That would just allow you to wait between releasing the balls.
I think that the pitch of the pin is ok. Not sure what else to try. This makes it bad (unfair) for a multi-player game of course.
I had heard that the YBR version would be an 'in between' price, not higher. That might suggest that there would be some cuts but who knows, we'll see or hear soon enough. I am very happy with my ECLE now that it has the 2.0 kit. I had previously installed all cliffies (except the three roll over switches), the red smoke witch and now waiting on the flying monkey. A friend has the green mirror blades and the throne room 3D torches, both are very cool. I would love castle walls as well... maybe in the future!
Call or email someone of their Team, they will direct it quickly.
Has the question of 'which is the most preferred, realistic looking castle walls kit available?', been asked recently?
I have Steve G's Red smoke witch and the monkey mod is coming. Which set looks best overall? (I have the ECLE, but doubt that has any bearing in the choices)
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:
Yup, $800 plus another $20 to ship. Mine are in a box for a rainy day, my 7.5 buffered are fine so not gonna install until something breaks.
I was planning the same until I read about someone having a DOA BAG PCB. That played on me so I bit the bullet and installed the kit. I didn't want to find out a year from now that something was DOA and would be on my coin to replace.
Quoted from f3honda4me:
What is the cost to upgrade the boards on an ECLE does anyone know? I thought I read $800 somewhere.
That is the current price, rumored to increase at some point. Buy it if you plan on keeping your ECLE, sell off your old boards to help cover some of the costs.
Quoted from HIPPY:
I bought my Ruby Red , nib, 2014. 7.5 installed, zero issues. If it works, don’t fix it.
After installing the 5v buffered set (complete 'kit'), I've not had any issues, it's been 3yrs? I still decided on moving to 2.0. Just a different choice but I'm very happy to made this choice, for me.
Quoted from pinballinreno:
I have not bought a 2.0 system yet...
I may be in the market for used 7.5v system boards for now if the used price is right...
PM me if you got em
Unfortunately I only have one board that is a 7.5v, I'm going to bundle it with the rest to help entice that bundle.
I assume that most have not had issues with the cables that tie in the old boards but those get pricey very fast and are essentially proprietary. I've pulled out every last one. Again, this will be helpful to some unfortunate person in the future who runs into lighting/cabling issues with a 5V or 7.5V
Yes, the 2.0 is brighter I've actually turned mine down a bit. Very happy to have a 2.0 ECLE now.
Quoted from paynemic:
You might find someone that did a 2.0 swap and buy their old boards. I had a friend do it and I bought his. I basically have a whole replacement set. I know it’s still a matter of if, but probably not an issue this way. And way less work to replace a board or two vs the whole thing harness and all...
One of the main things that people fail to realize is the complexity and count of the wiring involved with the pre 2.0 lighting. All of the pass-through LED boards have 3 separate cables connecting them, one for power, one green and one red (in/out). The small white tabbed connectors on the in/out cables are not that great and can be a bit difficult to unplug. If you are in and poking around trying to diagnose faulty boards and break a cable (patch) or connector, these start to get quite expensive. The same 2.0 replacement PCB has a single, robust connector, no contest IMO. That said, some might go a long while without any issues, good luck!
BTW, I have a fully functional 5V buffered set, with all patches and wiring removed. Just going to box it up and list it in the near future. Having the patches along with the boards will be important for those deciding to stay with a pre 2.0 system. Just my 2 cents.
Quoted from Nokoro:
I'm seriously considering swapping to the 2.0 light system and need some honesty about how difficult it is. I am not an expert at pinball repair, but I have fixed several things and can get by. I have never done a playfield swap. I have successfully removed both the castle and munchkin playfields and put them back in. I've read the instructions, and they seem somewhat overwhelming, but I think if I take my time and do it in chunks over the course of a few days, I could do it. Anyway, I'm interested in hearing from others with similar skill sets as me as to how big a deal this is. Thanks!
You can certainly do it. Plan to do a little each day or evening and if it takes 1 week (2 weekends), no problem.
I have made some comments and shared some pics in this thread if you want to go back and review. There are a few of us who can answer questions and guise you through. You will not regret the decision to move ahead!
Quoted from DCFAN:
Likely the unbuffered version of the 7.5volt boards. I believe most of the games with buffered boards have the terminals of the coils soldered on rather than slide-on terminals.
These are indeed unbuffered, just as you've described.
They will have issues, just a matter of when and to what extent. This is certainly the set to have outside of 2.0 though.
Quoted from bobukcat:
The yellow flippers and rubbers is a little too much IMO.
The yellow overall is way too much for me.
I would however happily drop the playfield into my ECLE. I have asked in two places to see if A: the playfield is identical to the EC and RR editions and B: if the YBR glitter PF can be purchased separately.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:
I do have this that I have used to hand truck most of my machines I have in the basement so far. It says up to 1000lbs, so it should be fine, but still Im a little scared.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Where are the cabinet protectors (foam, bubblewrap or something), for under those straps, MR.?!
Quoted from Pinballomatic:
No rr games that exist now have the boards in the head. The next run of rr games, should there be one, would have the boards up top like DI and pirates.
Interesting, I seem to recall reading this as I was contemplating selling my WOZECLE (prior to upgrading to 2.0 LED) for a RR and understood this to be one of the changes.
Quoted from bobukcat:
Didn't know there was a dongle but that makes sense, I just based my guess off of this:
* Virtual Monkey ball lock now holds ball for all of the display effect (both
for YBR games and any time virtual lock is turned on in settings or Monkey
auto-disabled by game).
Agreed, this should be available for all models when you turn off the monkey mech. That is what it sounds like here and is most logical.
Does anyone have a playfield for sale?
Curious to see what's available, PM me please.
Quoted from dnaman:
Does anyone have a playfield for sale?
Curious to see what's available, PM me please.
Quoted from bobukcat:
kruzman posted that he has one for $500: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-is-for-sale-in-michigan-now-non-scammer-edition/page/108#post-4949169
Thanks for sharing. Shortly after I posted, I found one in CT (the early signed ones), en route nowhere and very reasonable in price
Next, maybe a JJP POTC playfield for wall art and backup.
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