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(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

6 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 11,304 posts
  • 578 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Navystan
  • Topic is favorited by 271 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

9 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (6 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (3 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (1 year ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (1 year ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #11015 Adjustment advice for the monkey Posted by LTG (36 days ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1316 4 years ago

Does anyone know who has the WOZ target decal set on ebay [papakahuna], is he a pinsider under another name? Says that he/she is from Winnipeg.

1 year later
#4840 2 years ago

Just downloading 6.61 now. What is in the Director's Cut preset?

8 months later
#5980 2 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

What took me the longest time was the back and forth trips to the hardware store to find the right tool. Screw driver wouldn't pass, wrench was too long etc...
I would surely be interested in getting a list of must have tools from the Woz veterans

What was the one that worked for you in this instance?

3 weeks later
#6080 2 years ago

Has anyone had this happen?

My buddy was playing, went to hit the ball but held the flipper button in and by fluke, it stopped the ball on the tip. It's bizarre as the ball is actually beyond the tip. It stayed put and I took a half dozen pics.

IMG_20180916_1557338 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#6143 1 year ago
Quoted from KingBW:

In the new WOZ edition all of the boards and guts will be up in the head (like DI). That was their original intent, but not physically possible at that time.

Curious to know however, what are the changes in boards and tech? The current and older hardware (driver board etc...) seems like it is possible to repair as it has larger components. If everything is downsized and uses more SMDs, then it starts to close the door on local repair. Depending on the quantity of new WOZ pins that are made, it could also mean that there would be less of the newer 'tech' available if they stop manufacturing WOZ, sooner than later. Can they produce this 'indefinitely', license wise? That would be cool and might address my concern.

2 weeks later
#6184 1 year ago

Hi All.

What is the next 2.0 edition of WOZ? I hear that WOZ production has been halted for POTC and will resume around January.

2 weeks later
#6256 1 year ago

This is a bit of a repeat but might help someone else in their decision regarding their lighting issue or it will completely confuse the poor individual

As the 2.0 kits are currently, and at available at a reduced price, I have just ordered one. Others are completely right in justifying the cost right now. I purchased my ECLE 8 months used, back in the day, and eventually had light issues with a single board here and there and then a few more etc... I had an opportunity to get a complete 5V buffered set from JJP and moved on it. Replaced everything and sent the old ones back, essentially just covered one way of shipping (thank you JJP). I have had zero issues to date but have been recently looking at options for the future as I will keep a WOZ in my collection.

I will get the kit and if I don't have to send the old boards back, I will just sit on it for a bit. Some have suggested installing the 2.0, document that the older boards are still functional and sell them used to recoup some cash, great idea!

I am also now looking at new and used 2.0 WOZ options. I have checked with a couple of Canadian distributors and there are currently no WOZ pins available until the new year, production on hold due to POTC being run etc... I might list mine locally up until Christmas to see if anyone is interested, with or without the 2.0 kit as it is completely functional as is. Curious to see what the delta on selling and purchasing a replacement (and newer edition WOZ) would be. If it is feasible then why not, if not I just stay with what I have and keep on truckin'.

That said, I noticed in pictures from the Chicago Expo that at least one distributor had a new WOZ at a reduced show price of $9K USD ($495 saving). Does anyone know if this price is still being offered somewhere?

A used 2.0 pin would be of interest as well, especially if closer to me; IE: Michigan, states side or almost anywhere this side of the border.

#6257 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I have 9000+ plays on my game.
It's in near perfect shape...
...I'm thinking of getting a populated playfield from JJP and dropping it in, plus a faster computer to get faster load times.
At the very least I'll get the 2.0 boardset and install the new mainboard and i5 CPU.

Holy heck! What would a completely populated PF field run you? With the list of things you have summarized, why not just sell it and find another? (unless you were a day 1 owner at the $6K or $6500K price, then that might explain it.

2 weeks later
#6315 1 year ago

Received my full 2.0 upgrade kit this week!

If I have only one complaint so far it was that the kit was not shipped as a 'warranty replacement' (classification) item and unfortunately us Canucks end up paying tax and handling on the full declared value which cost me an additional $70. Not cool when this is easily considered a necessity and not a 'nice to have'.

JJP, please keep this in mind when sending items to Canada. I don't mind paying where required by this is easily preventable when selecting the content type. This is what was done for me after my first warranty replacement item(s) were sent to me a couple of years ago.

Hopefully this helps others, ensure that you ask.

2 weeks later
#6379 1 year ago
Quoted from monte_:

This is the video for pinstadium for woz rr with 2.0

Thanks for sharing!

It looks like you still have a Styrofoam shipping block in there

2 months later
#6635 1 year ago

I had a call into support and connected with Butch today. He said that they were running thin and he was helping out. Great guy and was very helpful indeed!

That said, I can finally say that I've successfully installed my WOZ 2.0 LED kit. There was a small issue with a hair thin line of solder shorting two solder pads on the back of the COMMS board (board with all of the RJ45 Ethernet connectors on it). It was literally preventing any of the new LEDs from lighting up. Each of the large PCBs had a single greed 'GOOD' LED on but nothing else on for the 2.0 system. Amazing that something so tiny can shut everything down.

I have taken a lot of pics of my work, made notes of discrepancies that I had with the instructions, some of which others have pointed out and noted which of the items were a challenge, IE: RJ45 cable(s) being too short etc... (the white coiled patch cable at the top in the photo will be replaced with a 2' as the included 1' would not reach the COMMS board)

I will have to go through the pics and thin this out as there are too may. That said, not sure if I should share my thoughts and finding here or not. Without a doubt, if anyone is on the fence about the kit, just do it. It's a killer upgrade and I will actually have to go in to see if I can reduce the brightness as these sit closer to the inserts and are just simply brighter. The other thing that I found is that my pin seems to be over powered now, as in all of the coils are running at an increased power. Odd but the pin is super fast right now.

I chose to take extra time and remove everything that would no longer be used in my WOZECLE, full harnesses etc... without cutting or damaging any of it. I now have a fully functional 5v buffered system that I will take pics of, bundle up and put on the market. I've had zero issues with that previously upgraded system, just wanted to move to the 2.0 while it was at the reduced pricing.

IMG_20190208_2044113 (resized).jpgWOZ 2.0-COMMS (resized).JPG
#6637 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Butch ( Peel, the manual guy ) is great. Glad you were able to figure that one out !
LTG : )

Yes exactly, another great guy, just like you

I was very happy as I thought that it might the the BAG PCB. They way that we isolated the 'NO LED' root cause was by simply plugging in single large LED board (via it's RJ45 port) directly into the BAG board's RJ45 port, bypassing the COMMS board all together, this was disconnected/connected while the power was off. This single large PCB (and it's satellite LED PCBs) worked without issue after booting up. I then powered down and tried to patch from the BAG PCB -> COMMS as expected but with only a single large board connected to the COMMS (via RJ45), powered up and it didn't light up. Tried another couple of ports, same result. Butch said that it looked to be a faulty COMMS board. But after discussing the simplicity of the board and its traces; how all of the ports are just wired (traced) in parallel, he said that maybe there is a short of some sort. I wiggled the connectors and finally checked the whole thing under a magnifying glass and the second time I noticed an extremely tiny thread of solder shorting pin 1 (square GDN pad) and a round pad (pin 2, of the same port), you can see below how that would short those two traces across the whole PCB.

Here's a pic from his manual that I've just looked up. (KILLER manual, if I haven't already said it a few times now)

Capture (resized).JPG
#6641 1 year ago
Quoted from Wanderers:

How long did it take to do the change over, I am contemplating buying the new
kit, but dreading doing it?

Yes, others have said up to 12 hours. Initially I thought that if I read through the instructions that it might take less but once I decided to start, I realized that I would be very particular and just take whatever time was needed for me to be happy. I did it over the course of a week so probably many more hours than necessary but totally worth the time.

Curious, have you had board issues? If so, doing this just takes the anxiety away of worrying about 'what next?' or 'when?'. If your WOZ is a keeper, do it. (Or sell and purchase new or gently used with 2.0)

#6644 1 year ago

Folks, what has been some of the ways to fix the release of balls from the munchkin lock?

I think that I have tried everything.

IE: bending the small resting tab underneath the lock bar which holds the balls back (the lock bar which raises and lowers with the coil). I have bent this down and up, both in varying amounts. Basically resulting in the arm letting the first ball through and the arm sitting on top, or slightly top front of the next ball, or letting them through. Note: if I bend the tab to allow the arm to almost sit on the plastic subway then the first ball seems to cup into the backside of the face of the arm and the coil won't pull up the arm. I have put tape across this opening to see if the position of the arm solves the release of multi-balls but it does not.

There is a coil setting for the release timing of balls 1,2 and 3 when locked and releasing them for multiball. I don't believe that has anything to do with what I need. That would just allow you to wait between releasing the balls.

I think that the pitch of the pin is ok. Not sure what else to try. This makes it bad (unfair) for a multi-player game of course.

#6646 1 year ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

(it kind of reminds of RS which most people hate but I actually love it)

Agreed, RS is a beauty. A nice Superpin Widebody, chock-full of goodies!

#6653 1 year ago

pinballomatic & pinballinreno - Thank you both for the very detailed run through!

I am hoping to try these out tonight or tomorrow.

#6674 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Is it 5v or 7.5v system?
A few very early standards had direct print cabs.

Can you provide a couple of pics of the large LED boards under the playfield?

#6695 1 year ago

I had heard that the YBR version would be an 'in between' price, not higher. That might suggest that there would be some cuts but who knows, we'll see or hear soon enough. I am very happy with my ECLE now that it has the 2.0 kit. I had previously installed all cliffies (except the three roll over switches), the red smoke witch and now waiting on the flying monkey. A friend has the green mirror blades and the throne room 3D torches, both are very cool. I would love castle walls as well... maybe in the future!

#6699 1 year ago
Quoted from Wanderers:

Great thanks, I have just replaced the WOZ 6 board so I’ll see how it goes now, but the general vibe I am getting is there will be others going.
How do I make a purchase of the new 2.0 boards, as they are not on there website.

Call or email someone of their Team, they will direct it quickly.

#6700 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinbear:

Do you know where does he get the mirror blades? I am looking for a red mirror blades for my WOZRR

He bought his ECLE used and they were already installed.

#6728 1 year ago

Has the question of 'which is the most preferred, realistic looking castle walls kit available?', been asked recently?

I have Steve G's Red smoke witch and the monkey mod is coming. Which set looks best overall? (I have the ECLE, but doubt that has any bearing in the choices)

#6738 1 year ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Yup, $800 plus another $20 to ship. Mine are in a box for a rainy day, my 7.5 buffered are fine so not gonna install until something breaks.

I was planning the same until I read about someone having a DOA BAG PCB. That played on me so I bit the bullet and installed the kit. I didn't want to find out a year from now that something was DOA and would be on my coin to replace.

#6739 1 year ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

What is the cost to upgrade the boards on an ECLE does anyone know? I thought I read $800 somewhere.

That is the current price, rumored to increase at some point. Buy it if you plan on keeping your ECLE, sell off your old boards to help cover some of the costs.

#6750 1 year ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

I bought my Ruby Red , nib, 2014. 7.5 installed, zero issues. If it works, don’t fix it.

After installing the 5v buffered set (complete 'kit'), I've not had any issues, it's been 3yrs? I still decided on moving to 2.0. Just a different choice but I'm very happy to made this choice, for me.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

I have not bought a 2.0 system yet...
I may be in the market for used 7.5v system boards for now if the used price is right...
PM me if you got em

Unfortunately I only have one board that is a 7.5v, I'm going to bundle it with the rest to help entice that bundle.

I assume that most have not had issues with the cables that tie in the old boards but those get pricey very fast and are essentially proprietary. I've pulled out every last one. Again, this will be helpful to some unfortunate person in the future who runs into lighting/cabling issues with a 5V or 7.5V

#6772 1 year ago

Yes, the 2.0 is brighter I've actually turned mine down a bit. Very happy to have a 2.0 ECLE now.

#6797 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

You might find someone that did a 2.0 swap and buy their old boards. I had a friend do it and I bought his. I basically have a whole replacement set. I know it’s still a matter of if, but probably not an issue this way. And way less work to replace a board or two vs the whole thing harness and all...

One of the main things that people fail to realize is the complexity and count of the wiring involved with the pre 2.0 lighting. All of the pass-through LED boards have 3 separate cables connecting them, one for power, one green and one red (in/out). The small white tabbed connectors on the in/out cables are not that great and can be a bit difficult to unplug. If you are in and poking around trying to diagnose faulty boards and break a cable (patch) or connector, these start to get quite expensive. The same 2.0 replacement PCB has a single, robust connector, no contest IMO. That said, some might go a long while without any issues, good luck!

BTW, I have a fully functional 5V buffered set, with all patches and wiring removed. Just going to box it up and list it in the near future. Having the patches along with the boards will be important for those deciding to stay with a pre 2.0 system. Just my 2 cents.

#6802 1 year ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I'm seriously considering swapping to the 2.0 light system and need some honesty about how difficult it is. I am not an expert at pinball repair, but I have fixed several things and can get by. I have never done a playfield swap. I have successfully removed both the castle and munchkin playfields and put them back in. I've read the instructions, and they seem somewhat overwhelming, but I think if I take my time and do it in chunks over the course of a few days, I could do it. Anyway, I'm interested in hearing from others with similar skill sets as me as to how big a deal this is. Thanks!

You can certainly do it. Plan to do a little each day or evening and if it takes 1 week (2 weekends), no problem.

I have made some comments and shared some pics in this thread if you want to go back and review. There are a few of us who can answer questions and guise you through. You will not regret the decision to move ahead!

#6822 1 year ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Likely the unbuffered version of the 7.5volt boards. I believe most of the games with buffered boards have the terminals of the coils soldered on rather than slide-on terminals.

These are indeed unbuffered, just as you've described.
They will have issues, just a matter of when and to what extent. This is certainly the set to have outside of 2.0 though.

#6824 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballHelp:

I'm looking for an alpha/iso of Woz version prior to 5.x. Does anybody have an ISO?

I can't help but curious to know why if you're willing to share

1 week later
#6871 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

The yellow flippers and rubbers is a little too much IMO.

The yellow overall is way too much for me.

I would however happily drop the playfield into my ECLE. I have asked in two places to see if A: the playfield is identical to the EC and RR editions and B: if the YBR glitter PF can be purchased separately.

1 week later
#6952 1 year ago

An 'Automated Custom LE' or "WOZ GREEN" like the stamp on the box

It's a beauty, just not a WOZ ECLE which should be perfectly alright by you.

#7033 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

I do have this that I have used to hand truck most of my machines I have in the basement so far. It says up to 1000lbs, so it should be fine, but still Im a little scared.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Where are the cabinet protectors (foam, bubblewrap or something), for under those straps, MR.?!

#7034 1 year ago

Like this

I do this with even old pins.

IMG_20181119_1903375 (resized).jpg
#7038 1 year ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

Luckily you don’t have a YBR

Or the latest run of RR. Those also have everything in the backbox apparently.

#7045 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

No rr games that exist now have the boards in the head. The next run of rr games, should there be one, would have the boards up top like DI and pirates.

Interesting, I seem to recall reading this as I was contemplating selling my WOZECLE (prior to upgrading to 2.0 LED) for a RR and understood this to be one of the changes.

1 week later
#7096 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

All right, owner for 2 days... ....Where can I buy green leg bolts to match this beauty?


2 days in and you are looking to colour match the bolts, you sir are 'hooked on pinball!'

#7174 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Didn't know there was a dongle but that makes sense, I just based my guess off of this:
* Virtual Monkey ball lock now holds ball for all of the display effect (both
for YBR games and any time virtual lock is turned on in settings or Monkey
auto-disabled by game).

Agreed, this should be available for all models when you turn off the monkey mech. That is what it sounds like here and is most logical.

#7214 1 year ago

Does anyone have a playfield for sale?

Curious to see what's available, PM me please.

#7237 1 year ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Does anyone have a playfield for sale?
Curious to see what's available, PM me please.

Thanks for sharing. Shortly after I posted, I found one in CT (the early signed ones), en route nowhere and very reasonable in price

Next, maybe a JJP POTC playfield for wall art and backup.

2 months later
#8039 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

the automated one does not have the wood apron, or topper, but supposedly does have 2.0 boards.

I recall reading about the Automated green edition. Don't know that it had Invisiglass or the direct painted and cleared cabinets. Was there a difference with the backlash maybe (mirrored or more of a green going on or something)?

1 month later
#8473 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

How was the install on the Monkey Mod? Make me nervous to mess around with that as i finally have it working perfectly...

Just be sure to remain focused. Don't monkey around!

#8474 1 year ago
Quoted from SDpinballer:

Y’all probably know this already, but on the off chance ya don’t, as I didn’t, this little post sure does make it easier to get rescue multi-ball.

I've not adjust mine but I find that the ball will almost always bounce over to the flipper if you don't flip first (or too early).

1 week later
#8547 1 year ago

Although I did a system/settings backup first, going from 7.01 to 7.02 went 100% and kept my scores and settings. I did NOT choose FACTORY SETTING RESET (using the 2 flipper button) option on the first boot up.

Now, the first time that the ball went into the crystal ball VUK, it kicked up and out of the rail. The rest have been ok but I might have to turn it down a bit.

#8565 1 year ago
Quoted from wtatumjr:

You're not the only one - I feel a bit dumb

Ditto! That is awesome to know.

#8566 1 year ago
Quoted from homegameroom:

That was a good thought. I tried that and it works on all of the lamp tests.[quoted image]

Is it possible that you haven't earned it? Can you trigger it with the glass off?

#8645 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

It's not really hard at all, just time-consuming. And Butch did a great job taking the feedback from me and other early adopters to make the instructions now pretty rock-solid (as you saw).


Quoted from vireland:

It's a serial communications system so whichever board is causing the problem is likely intermittently varying degrees of bad and that affects the lights downstream from it by differing amounts. Until it dies completely and then they're always bad, and maybe it takes another board or boards with it. 1.0 lighting system BLOWS. Trust me. I had a perfect ECLE until it wasn't, then spent over a year with a cascading problem of light boards that eventually ended up being ALL the boards in the machine had been replaced and still problems were happening. Did the 2.0 (one of the first) install and it's been rock solid ever since. I can't recommend the upgrade highly enough.

Also agreed!

I've done the same (2.0) with my ECLE, haven't looked back.

I believe that the kit is still at the original price. Rumor was that they would increase it, at some point.

Those on the fence don't want to miss out on that, should it happen.

#8674 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

It seems a bit puzzling to me that JJP acknowledged they built and shipped pins (mine was built Nov, 2015) with a faulty light system, corrected the problem with a new 2.0 system, but requires $800 from the buyers to fix it. Wouldn’t offering the fix kit to original buyers at JJP’s cost be fair? Especially since we still have to invest the labor? Just a thought.

You are not the first or the last who will post this, this thread has many who share the opinion. The outcome remains the same: sell it off or upgrade it. I chose to upgrade.

Now, I also waited months to install and the 'what if there is something faulty, in the kit' or just with me installing it. I then decided to install everything. In my case, the small hub board, with all of the Ethernet ports had a hair sized (width of) solder bead shorting two pins. They were going to replace the board until I saw this under a magnifying glass. I looked at it as Butch told me that this board is literally all RJ45 connectors with traces, zero components on it.

2.0, and don't look back!

#8689 1 year ago

This is a small snippet of the functional 5v buffered (single RGB LED) boards that I removed.

Look at these, way too much crap on each of those and it looks as though the buffer/filter PCB has been soldered on by hand. That along with an in and out data and a power connector, the poor data connector style along with those patch cables and their male connectors. If you start having issues, having to cycle the power each time to troubleshoot which board or cable is at fault, trying to carefully wiggle out the patch cables, jumper and change software setting to disable the board(s). Be gone!

The simplicity of the 2.0 is key here, just looking for any photos that I might have of a close up of even the single RGB LED PCB, simple design. I'll post something.
IMG_20190209_1330595 (resized).jpgIMG_20190209_1350161 (resized).jpgIMG_20190209_1345390 (resized).jpg

#8690 1 year ago

Profile pic of 2.0 single RGB LED PCB. Single robust connector for power and data and an SMD LED. Simple design

The interconnect for the main PCBs uses standard, off the shelf Ethernet path cables.

IMG_20190208_1637360 (resized).jpg
#8692 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

What about the brightness difference people have reported.
The game as it is, is pretty dark.
Less light might be an issue.

My 2.0 is bright! I can't recall if I turned it down in the software.

Sorry, just re-read your post, I haven't suggested that there is any less light (LED) on the PCBs. The kit is brighter than the old system.

WoZ is still a darker pin. I actually play with the room light down

2 weeks later
#8789 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Well that takes care of that. Thanks again as always.

Not necessarily. You could have asked;

"No, there is no option?" or "No, you don't know?"

9 months later
#10646 3 months ago
Quoted from Pinball-Pat:

2.0 kit installed!!! 4 evenings and she’s done. Ready to play some games again.
[quoted image]

Congrats! You won't be happier. That 2.0 is worth the time and money. Well a free replacement would have been nice but that wasn't an option

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