(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

6 years ago

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  • 10,464 posts
  • 556 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by LTG
  • Topic is favorited by 252 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (6 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (3 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (1 year ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (1 year ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (12 months ago)

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#43 6 years ago
Quoted from Craig:

Has anyone put an online tutorial up with ver. 3.0 code? If so, I'd love to watch it in hopes that I might begin to approach a decent score.

I posted a 3.0 gameplay up to melting the witch if that helps. Not a tutorial, but might give you some clues.
Thanks for starting this thread! About time

1 week later
#208 6 years ago
Quoted from StevenP:

I did mine too, and it makes a big difference. The ball tends to stay in the castle loop when shot, instead of bouncing out most of the time. All I did was to slide the pf out a bit, hooked a finger under the middle of the upside-down-U-shaped wire at the top of the loop, and pulled upward to bend it up a bit. Would not have thought to do this on my own, and interesting that it fixes the bounce-out problem so well...

Is it me just being lucky, or can others "backhand" around the search loop most of the time with the flipper and not have and problems? Haven't adjusted anything - seems to great on mine.

Congrats Geremy on your purchase. Grab the munchinland playfield edge cliffy asap - it is the essential one and not hard to fit relative to some of the others.

1 month later
#333 5 years ago
Quoted from Mato:

Do you have to sign up to Jersey Jack to get the new code when it is launched?

No it'll be downloadable on the JJP support website

1 month later
#416 5 years ago

Custom photo fits well. Loving 4.0. Haunted multiball is very loud!image.jpg

#418 5 years ago

Not sure as it happened during ECMB and munchkin mode - tend to stack things up, and Haunted just happened during the chaos. Some great new music additions in 4.0.

#428 5 years ago

Couple of replies- I preceded fish tales to Ripleys- but like all machines it's down to personal taste. FT was faster and fun, RBION had more rules, more shots, but with TZ in the house I didn't need it.

Custom photo , as far as I can tell can store quite a few, but only displays one. May be corrected on this

5 months later
#552 5 years ago

That's less than we pay over here in Australia, and that's when our dollar was worth more than US! Try $11500 now. Don't worry how much you paid- the game is worth it. And ALL machines need adjustments out of the box - and as you play them for that matter. All part of the fun.

3 months later
#745 5 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Can someone tell me what type of cable I should be using for hooking up an external sub? Should I use the line out? Or should I just tap right into the sub like my Sterns?

Line out is the perfect way to hook up a sub. Enjoy.

3 months later
#926 4 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

So are there 3 versions of WOZ, ECLE, PRO and RRLE?

Dont forget the AusLE (same as ECLE but no wooden apron) and the Rescue Edition (built for Australians that lost their dosh when Bumper Amusements went under).

6 months later
#1092 4 years ago

No troubles up in Queensland. Took 4 hours, but worked perfectly when installed. Anyone else notice it's much easier to light RAINBOW now? Seem to be spinning the house all the time on the way to other multiballs.

4 weeks later
#1224 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I'm feeling blind because I can't seem to find that unused connector. Are you going to do that? If so, I might wait and copy off of you, especially if you take some good pictures (hint, hint).

Aren't there detailed instructions in the game manual? I seem to remember that, though I don't have the manual in front of me at the moment.

I did this small video if it's of any help

2 weeks later
#1341 4 years ago

So nice that Alex still checks thing out on here after all the flack at times. Thanks.

5 months later
#2121 3 years ago

I really don't understand Mumchkin modes. I see the colored shots, but don't know what's valuable. Any quick and easy tutorial available for these?

3 months later
#2972 3 years ago

if it's not the JJP shaker, that *707 fuse will blow regularly - need the genuine one as discussed earlier. .I got an early shaker that did this multiple times but was replaced by JJP soon after.

3 weeks later
#3038 3 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I have had the same right door issue and another issue where sometimes the doors just don't open when they are supposed to. Please let us know if a fix is discovered.

the castle doors have a tab that prevents them opening when hit by the door. This can need adjustment if they open prematurely or don't always open properly. Removal of the upper playfield is not too difficult the check this out. If you want to see how they work, I did this and they can be seen at the 5:05 point.

2 months later
#3731 3 years ago

For us WOZ lovers, in case you missed it, this is my daughter and I having a battle on our WOZ. We love this game!

1 month later
#3940 2 years ago

See what you have all gone and done? My game has been flawless since NIB, and suddenly - lots of light issues. Had to bypass and turn off both sling GI light boards as there the fault started (19 and 21 I think they were) but now my "fish" board and left exit board are doing this. Does this mean the boards need to be replaced entirely or can it be the data cables? Game is OK in white test, but in red-and during game play- does this.

IMG_7375 (resized).JPG

#3957 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Those sling GI boards are the only ones I've ever had a problem with and it has to be because they are so close to the flipper mechs. In my case neither board was bad, either time, it was just the cable and connector. I had to re-flow the solder on the connector on one and fix the cable on the other twice. I probably need to just order a new cable for the left one but so far, so good after my repair. If you haven't already make sure all boards are enabled and go into numbered led test, cycle until you're one the first one with a problem and then wiggle the cable on that board AND the two it's connected to and see if you get any changes. Good luck!

Seems 19,20 and 21 are all acting up. All show purple or red on individual test. Bit of color change when the cables are wiggled as per your suggestion, but can't get them to go white. Odd that all 3 go at once. Cables look ok as far as being seated in the "molex" connectors. I'll take what Keith suggested is the problem with the larger boards re the red/green switching, that makes sense. I'll but the 3 little boards and see if this fixes things.

1 year later
#5810 1 year ago

Can I get some help with a transformer problem? Not sure if its common but mine developed an extremely loud buzz after powering on for 5 mins. It gets so loud it can be heard over the music. I tried the old bash it was a hammer that has been suggested but didn't help. I was told it was due to plate vibration in the transformer, and used the existing holes to pass through some bolts to firm it all up, but now it gets so hot I have to turn it off after playing for an hour. Any other suggestions besides shelling out $500 for a new transformer?

9 months later
#7266 1 year ago

Installed 7.01 just to be current. It seems to have confused my LED boards though. All work in test mode, but the numbering is wrong. None are turned off in the menu.

When individuals are tested, #1(W) doesn’t come on , but does when #2 (O) is displayed on the screen. Then all down the sequence are one out until #43 (YBR7). They then correspond to their proper numbers.

Any help appreciated.

#7270 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I would try going back to a full install of 6.61, if the LEDs work properly with that I would try re-installing the 7.01 build again. What version LEDs do you have?

Early build 5v boards. I have to see if can find the old code as the website only has the most recent. I’ll give it a go thanks.

#7273 1 year ago

Whoops problem fixed. Looks like I bypassed one board a long time ago and forgot (R sling GI that only shows red). All lighting correctly now. Not sure why that affects the order up on the Rainbow light, but back to playing the glory that is WOZ (and stopping getting jealous that I’m spending so muh time on Pirates)!

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