I posted a 3.0 gameplay up to melting the witch if that helps. Not a tutorial, but might give you some clues.
Thanks for starting this thread! About time

Is it me just being lucky, or can others "backhand" around the search loop most of the time with the flipper and not have and problems? Haven't adjusted anything - seems to great on mine.

Congrats Geremy on your purchase. Grab the munchinland playfield edge cliffy asap - it is the essential one and not hard to fit relative to some of the others.

No it'll be downloadable on the JJP support website

Custom photo fits well. Loving 4.0. Haunted multiball is very loud!image.jpg

Not sure as it happened during ECMB and munchkin mode - tend to stack things up, and Haunted just happened during the chaos. Some great new music additions in 4.0.

Couple of replies- I preceded fish tales to Ripleys- but like all machines it's down to personal taste. FT was faster and fun, RBION had more rules, more shots, but with TZ in the house I didn't need it.

Custom photo , as far as I can tell can store quite a few, but only displays one. May be corrected on this

That's less than we pay over here in Australia, and that's when our dollar was worth more than US! Try $11500 now. Don't worry how much you paid- the game is worth it. And ALL machines need adjustments out of the box - and as you play them for that matter. All part of the fun.

Line out is the perfect way to hook up a sub. Enjoy.

Dont forget the AusLE (same as ECLE but no wooden apron) and the Rescue Edition (built for Australians that lost their dosh when Bumper Amusements went under).

No troubles up in Queensland. Took 4 hours, but worked perfectly when installed. Anyone else notice it's much easier to light RAINBOW now? Seem to be spinning the house all the time on the way to other multiballs.

I did this small video if it's of any help

So nice that Alex still checks thing out on here after all the flack at times. Thanks.

I really don't understand Mumchkin modes. I see the colored shots, but don't know what's valuable. Any quick and easy tutorial available for these?

if it's not the JJP shaker, that *707 fuse will blow regularly - need the genuine one as discussed earlier. .I got an early shaker that did this multiple times but was replaced by JJP soon after.

the castle doors have a tab that prevents them opening when hit by the door. This can need adjustment if they open prematurely or don't always open properly. Removal of the upper playfield is not too difficult the check this out. If you want to see how they work, I did this and they can be seen at the 5:05 point.

For us WOZ lovers, in case you missed it, this is my daughter and I having a battle on our WOZ. We love this game!

See what you have all gone and done? My game has been flawless since NIB, and suddenly - lots of light issues. Had to bypass and turn off both sling GI light boards as there the fault started (19 and 21 I think they were) but now my "fish" board and left exit board are doing this. Does this mean the boards need to be replaced entirely or can it be the data cables? Game is OK in white test, but in red-and during game play- does this.

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Seems 19,20 and 21 are all acting up. All show purple or red on individual test. Bit of color change when the cables are wiggled as per your suggestion, but can't get them to go white. Odd that all 3 go at once. Cables look ok as far as being seated in the "molex" connectors. I'll take what Keith suggested is the problem with the larger boards re the red/green switching, that makes sense. I'll but the 3 little boards and see if this fixes things.

Can I get some help with a transformer problem? Not sure if its common but mine developed an extremely loud buzz after powering on for 5 mins. It gets so loud it can be heard over the music. I tried the old bash it was a hammer that has been suggested but didn't help. I was told it was due to plate vibration in the transformer, and used the existing holes to pass through some bolts to firm it all up, but now it gets so hot I have to turn it off after playing for an hour. Any other suggestions besides shelling out $500 for a new transformer?

Installed 7.01 just to be current. It seems to have confused my LED boards though. All work in test mode, but the numbering is wrong. None are turned off in the menu.

When individuals are tested, #1(W) doesn’t come on , but does when #2 (O) is displayed on the screen. Then all down the sequence are one out until #43 (YBR7). They then correspond to their proper numbers.

Any help appreciated.

Early build 5v boards. I have to see if can find the old code as the website only has the most recent. I’ll give it a go thanks.

Whoops problem fixed. Looks like I bypassed one board a long time ago and forgot (R sling GI that only shows red). All lighting correctly now. Not sure why that affects the order up on the Rainbow light, but back to playing the glory that is WOZ (and stopping getting jealous that I’m spending so muh time on Pirates)!

I did this a while ago when I had the same problem. Hope it helps.

Hi 2.0 adopters. Just wondered are the light posts supposed to be missing on 15 and 20? Getting it all done, 1 red board but that's fine.

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Whoops thanks Lloyd. Must have forgotten them during the build somehow. I'll contact support and see how I go.

Just upgraded the code to allow scorebit. Now my lights are whacky. I have the 2.0 upgrade, and on individual test is starts with YBR lights on the play field, but on LCD shows should Rainbow. GI is wrong as well. Any thoughts?

This is GI test - worked perfectly prior to upgrade.

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All good. Did the computer thing and turned it off and on (after a pause of course) a few times and seems to have worked it out itself

Hi all. I have purchased a wifi USB adapter for my WOZ. It needs a software installation to use. If I plug it in to the "door" usb before starting the game it of course tries to boot of it unsuccessfully. Anyone know how I can install the software into the WOZ to use the adapter? Thanks

Thanks Lloyd. Did the upgrade and the menu comes up to connect to wifi, but with the usb dongle plugged in is still says "cannot detect wifi network". I believe you need to install the driver software for the dongle before it will work. It's this installation I'm not sure how to do.

Thanks Lloyd. Did the upgrade and the menu comes up to connect to wifi, but with the usb dongle plugged in is still says "cannot detect wifi network". I believe you need to install the driver software for the dongle before it will work. It's this installation I'm not sure how to do.

I bought a wifi dongle locally. Will have to get one from Amazon US as the recommended one instead. Is it OK to use a USB hub so we can have wifi and bluetooth?

I tested it on my desktop and it automatically came up with the driver installation request when I plugged it in. It then connects to my home wifi without issues. Doesn't come up with that on WOZ of course, and if I start the game with it in it tries to boot off it instead on startup. Not to worry, I'll try the Amazon one when it arrives (Only $14.99, plus $11.99 shipping sadly).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PB1X4CN

Just installed the recommended dongle from Amazon and worked fine. Drivers must be pre-installed as it comes with a driver CD but recognised straight away. Now registered with Scorebit. Very cool. Hope they do the same for POTC soon!

Tech question for my lovely WOZ. Top lane magnet stopped working, checked fuse 707 which supplies all magnets. It was blown so replaced it. Blew on startup, so unplugged all 5 magnets it supplies on the playfield - but again blows on starting the game. Any thoughts before I blow more fuses? Rest of the game functions perfectly. 2014 build, 2.0 lights installed. Thanks

Lloyd you are still a legend. Looked closely at the board on top and found this. Can't see where it came from or how it got loose. It wasn't where it is circled - but wonder if it was shorting something, or was surplus and left in there and not needed?

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Took the "bit " out and fuse still blows when coin door closed. Wonder if one of the transistors has gone (Q334-Q338)?

Arrgh. Replaced the Q336 MOSFET and the fuse didn't blow when door closed. Replugged in the 5 magenta - blew fuse and MOSFET again. Should have replugged them in one by one of course. Don't have another MOSFET so will have to order some in.

Good pick up. Have to look up what that's supposed to do. I'll be sending it off - not up to SMT soldering yet!

Just checked the manual - 404 not populated. The mystery continues. Luckily enough the game still plays fine without the magnets, so there's that for now.

My poor WOZ. Getting old like me.

Current problem - no inputs from door buttons/start button so cannot start game or do diagnostics. On starting, doesn't do the usual monkey move/house spin. Won't show door open screen. Fuses all lit as fine, and will slowly fade when door open for 70V fuses. Checked J601-604 all plugged into IO board and fine, through connectors seated as well. Anything else to check?

Never sorted the problems with my magnets. transistor at 336 and diode both replaced. If fuse put in for the magnets (with all magnets disconnected) the transistor at 336 gets immediately HOT - so leaving the fuse out and not using any magnets now.

Ah well, will just play TS4 and POTC for now but missing my WOZ.

Thanks again Lloyd for the advice. Did as you said. Sadly not just the coin door, but the flipper buttons, start button all non responsive. Reseated everything but still nothing. All boots fine and screen showing as ready to play, but nothing from the start button, flippers or coin door.

It's interesting that when I open the coin door, the 70v fuse lights SLOWLY fade out. When it worked they would turn out instantly when the coin door was opened.....

Thanks for that. Managed to find a bent pin on the IO board that was causing the problems. Did it when I was replacing the 336 transistor powering the top lane magnet. Had to remove it because it was pretty much melting. Still need to sort that out but at least I can play my beautiful game now!

Bit of 2.0 help please. This board will show green when game powers on, then a red fuse status light when a game is started. After playing a bit it behaves normally. Turn the game off - it goes green for a bit again. On LED test - green with any single LED test, but goes red again when all activated. Any ideas why?

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PS just started doing this, been fine for past year or so.

Good idea but the fact that it comes good midway through a game is what confuses me. I'll check anyway, thanks