(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by LTG
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Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (6 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (3 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (1 year ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (1 year ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (12 months ago)


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#2364 3 years ago

hey guys - just joined the club (RR). Do you play 3 or 5 ball? My game is on 5 right now but is that standard? Thought it was always 3?

#2369 3 years ago

thanks guys - I'll drop down to 3 in a little bit. Loving the game so far. Code is 6.06 which I believe is the latest. Bought from owner and HUO. Game looks stunning. Really need to understand the rules first. Still look for mode start although not even sure there is one!!! haha. Also - trying to reset high score which I did through the menu but it appears to still show them. How do you erase all high scores?

...and how do you remove the flipper rubbers with the shoes on top? Do those snap off?

#2374 3 years ago

Very helpful. I didn't even know you can turn off the trees. Is that how you get that skill shot?

I'm a little overwhelmed by how much is here. Where is the best place to read about rules BC the soft copy manual is hard to read....

Found something here

http://papa.org/2015/05/18/wizard-of-oz-rulesheet/
And 6.06 is the latest code right?

#2377 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

You're good on the code. Here is a good read on the rules:
http://papa.org/2015/05/18/wizard-of-oz-rulesheet/
Turning off the trees helps get in to collect haunted forest, with factory settings you can only turn them off after haunted is ready. The haunted skill shot is from the upper flipper on the main playfield, straight between the trees... very tough shot.
Also Jersey Jack's website has a PDF of the manual available.

Thanks! Been reading about all the rules. wow. so many - i love it.

I noticed that upon plunging, I can change the light over the lanes that the ball goes down (strong plung but not complete orbit - lanes right above the spinning house/tornado). I can't figure out what pressing the flippers during that time does though besides change the light - must have some impact to the table right?

#2379 3 years ago

what is the purpose of light the lanes though? I understand the skill shot but what use is it for me to change that light during the game?

#2381 3 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

During gameplay, you want the ball to go through the unlit lane to illuminate it. If you illuminate both, it increases your bonus multiplier.

OK - it seems like though that i can light whichever lane I want so I was thinking the ball would need to go down the
lit lane that I'm choosing with flippers no?

Also - just realized the legs come out of dorothy's spinning house. That's great - how do you get that to happen
in game?

#2383 3 years ago

OK then what is the purpose of me changing the lights with the flipper?

#2387 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

If you see the ball is about to go down a lane that is alreay lit you can quickly change it so that you can gain the extra bonus multiplier. Give it a few tries glancing up at the lower right quadrant of the display as soon as the ball goes through a lane. You'll see pretty quickly whats going on.

OK that makes sense thanks!

#2396 3 years ago

really getting into this game now after have for a few days. Yesterday I played for almost 3 hours. Never had that happen before (at one time). The game is just so complex. I've owned TZ in the past but this one just has me coming back for more. Loving it. How the lighting changes during certain modes like munchkins is so impressive.

Regarding the shoot again option - I swear, sometimes I drain right in the beginning and it goes right to ball 2. Is there something special about shoot again with this game?

Also - any tips for a newbie to rack up the points?

#2401 3 years ago

Latest code is 6.06 right

#2403 3 years ago

Oh got it. That's def what it is then. I haven't changed factory settings. What does the competitive scene use - 7?

Also - i wish the feet would stay outside a little longer (house toy). Love that!

#2406 3 years ago

guys - what flipper color are you using on your machine? Mine has black but I feel like I might go red.

#2416 3 years ago

For RR owners - anyones toto toy sometimes interfere with the shooting lane/ball? Had it happen a few times.

#2418 3 years ago

Interesting BC I took the toy off and tightened yet it still interferes. Not sure the screws are the issue as if I hold the toy in that place it seems to still catch it. Would you mind taking a picture of the toys placement?

#2420 3 years ago

OK - but don't have a problem besides the ball hitting the toto toy sometimes. Seems like if the bracket was higher, the toy would be higher and therefore not even come close to the ball shootng out

#2423 3 years ago

That's exactly what I'll do. Thanks

#2429 3 years ago

i can not figure out how to get the balls out of this machine. Doesn't seem like there is a setting either and the way I used to do it on my older games doesn't work. Anyone know how to get the balls out? Want to replace them.

#2446 3 years ago

Any trick to getting the trees off the pop bumpers? I was thinking of adding the eye lights but can't find the right size to take off the screws in the back of them.

#2455 3 years ago

thinking about putting an led strip which I usually clip to an existing light below the table for power. This new table - seems like they run on boards or something diff than old school. How would I go about clipping or adding a strip with the current tech used by WOZ? Want to put it behind the flippers.

#2457 3 years ago

Thanks. I have something like this - would that work? Also - spotlight being right by the wizard? Assuming I can clip onto that from underneath?

http://www.cometpinball.com/MATRIX-20-SMD-5050-6-3V-LIGHTED-STRIPS-p/20smd6.3vstrip.htm

#2459 3 years ago

OK - do they attach with alligator clips?

EDIT - looks like they might not. I'll need to look into this. Need to find a place that has them in 12v

#2465 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

That site has some really interesting products that seem well priced. Whats their quality / service like?

I've shopped there for two years now and love them.

#2469 3 years ago

I noticed there is a key hole where you would typically see one on the head of the unit but can we open that? There really is not anything behind there but the tv. Did they do that just to make it look like an old school pin?

8 months later
#3977 2 years ago

so just rejoined the club. Missed the game. Bounced around a number of classics and this game is really special. Still nothing like it IMO. It is the twilight zone of the new gen. Tech, shots, music - it has it all.

Advice to make the middle of the playfield brighter? I installed spotlights on my previous IJ and it made a huge diff. Problem is I don't know if you can alligator clip into these boards.

Has anyone mad the middle of the game brighter?

#3980 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Just add a couple of spotlights, one on the left near the crystal ball and one near the throne room. You can get 12 volts from the other spotlights.

OK - would these work though?

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1542

If not, can you link me to ones that will?

#3984 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Yes, the spotlights would work. Just remember to use 12 volt LEDs. These worked well for me:
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/opmax12v.htm

Thanks. How did you connect them though b/c in the past i've used alligator clips. I don't think you can do that with WOZ. I would like to add a few LED strips to the game but again - not what I connect them too.

#3986 2 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Thanks, I think I'll give them a shout and ask the difference between the two. Wonder if it's just a matter of color temp.

Sunlight is more yellow. Natural is white. I like natural.

#3995 2 years ago

Tips for hitting the "Collect" shot associated with the horses? I know you prob need to hold right flipper so you can shoot the ball in from left flipper but just can't do it. Am I missing something?

1 week later
#4075 2 years ago

Those with Polk sub or any sub attached what is suggested way with JJ games? I was thinking plug from machine and split into red and white into the sub

#4078 2 years ago
Quoted from Guzz4851:

This was the easiest. I have it done this way no problems. Just make sure the audio port on the back is attached to the computer inside.

When you say audio port in back connected to PC - that's what I am plugging into and I tried yesterday and the sub is working. Is there anything else I need to do to connect it to the computer?

Also when I power the game on I can hear a pop noise from the sub. Seems like it's the power signal reaching the sub but it's louder than expected. My son isn't on too strong either

1 month later
#4178 2 years ago

Looking to join the club again (ECLE) - if you want to sells yours, PM me. Can be there tomorrow with cash.

#4181 2 years ago
Quoted from Spankey:

Don't be afraid to go for a well priced Standard and do a little customization.

not a fan - want that green or I'll go back to the red.

#4183 2 years ago

Do new RR have no number on the apron?

#4192 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

the most recent RRs made still have numbers

Any reason why one wouldn't have number? One I'm looking at doesn't

#4197 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

The customer never put it on, perhaps? The sticker usually comes in a packet on the shipping box if he bought it new.

oh - ok. Didn't know that was an actual sticker (with the number on it). That's prob why.

#4199 2 years ago

so I'm back in the club for the third time. Plan to stay this time.

For the guys with green on their trees, where did you buy it and just glue?

#4201 2 years ago

thanks - it looks great. Do you know what size screws and did you just screw them into the trees? Wasn't sure if there were holes in them already or if you made holes.

#4204 2 years ago

OK thanks guys.

One other question - my WOZ came with cliffy by throne room but I know it's perfect underneath and rather see it. Would it be bad if I tried to remove it now? Don't want to damage.

It also has that black cover from indypin that I want to remove. If anyone is interested PM me as I'll just sell it discounted vs new.

#4205 2 years ago

One other one - for those with pinbulbs LED kit - I have it on mine and really like it. Only time I'm not a fan is when it's lights out mode, the LED kit doesn't turn off. Anyway to get it to work with that mode?

#4207 2 years ago

That's a good point. The difference with this kit is crazy. You can really appreciate all the detail with proper GI.

1 week later
#4253 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

This is totally my reasoning why I don't have a Woz as I've read and heard that people would like the new 2.0 system. I've passed on many pre-owned Woz and thinking about the NIB yet the price is much higher.
Also, I was concerned about the GI on WOZ. I play in dark or semi dark and even if I did leave the lights on for WoZ, my room is not well lit some people say it needs extra GI for this environment bit some people say the extra GI doesn't look good. I often wonder after all this time why JJP has not increased the GI capacity on the newer games and could even be adjustable so if people like less or more then can set it up as they like it.

I really think the GI update does a great job and is not overkill. I'm also someone who plays with little to no light and I felt like I was missing half the game b/c it's so dark.

See below. I think it looks great and matches well. I also included my WCS (recently LED'd) for comparison). I do love games that pop. You can also unplug the main plug behind the coin door and go back to stock whenever you want....

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20170904_112116 (resized).jpg

#4255 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

what is the GI update? Is this just with a newer pin or has it been updated with software?

Sorry should have been clearer. I have the GI pinbulb kit installed. That's what I was referring to when I said I updated the GI.

#4257 2 years ago

question - can you get the monkey lock by shooting left OR right or is it just left?

#4262 2 years ago
Quoted from TRAMD:

Where did you get this? My 2017 RR is fine but my 2015 standard could use it.

https://www.pinballbulbs.com/kits/wizard-of-oz

#4263 2 years ago
Quoted from Ramjet:

If you want everything to look purple, then get it. If you want to enjoy all the colors on the playfield, then you can add your own led strip under the apron/between the flippers and a spot light or two with cool or warm white leds

I did this on my second one. Although it helps it's definitely not the solution if you want the entire playfield brighter.

Btw the spotlight LEDs can be changed to white if you want. I like the color it provides though.

#4265 2 years ago

So I tried shooting the right orbit when the light is blinking yellow/red and it just goes around and collects yellow brick road but no magnet/monkey. If I shoot left, magnet/monkey works. Is there a setting that might have been changed to only allow left b/c I know it's working fine.

#4267 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Right orbit: game needs to see the orbit entrance opto under the house playfield and then the right orbit made microswitch in order to activate the magnet and send the monkey down. Make sure the right orbit made rollover works with fast and slow rolled balls in switch test and or magnet sense test.

So I did test and the right orbit switch registers fine. The opto by the house (right next to the magnet) also triggers well but on screen it's listed as "not used" #14. It's brown too. Is that normal?

#4270 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Nope it's plugged into the wrong spot on the opto control board underneath near the house. It should read as switch 16 in the white violet row 8. Go under and move the plug from the green socket to the violet. The green one stays empty on purpose.

Great advice. It works now. Didn't realize that until now. Got to love this website. So many knowledgeable people

#4296 2 years ago

What power level do you guys keep your state balloon bumper at? Mine seemed a little strong as one bump into it can cause a frenzy of hits. Anyone else lower the strength?

Also sometimes the auto plunger shoots the ball a little to the left and it cuts the speed down as it grazes a little. Anyone experience that?

#4302 2 years ago

Thought I would post this here in case anyone is interested. Both in new condition. PM me if interested. Flex on price.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/51900

#4321 2 years ago

I have that black custom cover for the wizard that is sold here as a mod (covers the frame and makes if look complete). PM me if you want to buy. $25 shipped. Thanks.

2 weeks later
#4391 2 years ago

so I might have my first light issue. All of a sudden no rainbow target lights and no light for lion. Any suggestions to check before I call JJP for a potential replacement board (I guess?). Thanks

Looks like LED 1 through 34 based on individual led test. Starts with rainbow letters.

#4395 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Reseat the connectors to those boards and the board upstream in the chain. Also make sure the shaft on the munchkinland flipper isn't hitting those wires. If you still have an issue, call JJP.

Thanks - just did. A no go. First time I've had any light issues (1.75 or whatever the ones are after original - not 2.0). I'll call them thanks

#4396 2 years ago

So interesting update. The W4 board is the one that first starts having issue (only 1 light on there is working perfectly. I checked manual and the one before that is 26. I reseating 26 and W4 and now some of the lights on W4 and up the chain (W10 - rainbow targets) are now ON BUT they don't change color - just stay white. Thoughts?

btw - I believe 26 controls the throne room GI only and if so that works fine on test so must be W4 that shows the first sign of issues.

Lloyd - is this all correct? Wasn't sure if W4 or 26 needs to be replaced but think it would be W4 based on above. It's weird though that after I reseated 26, the lights that didn't work (some of them) were on but just white....

1 week later
#4429 2 years ago

I have a ruby red cup holder if anyone is interested. Made by modfather but don't need it. Brand new never used.

https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/woz/products/woz-ruby-red-pincup

$38 shipped.

PM if interested.

4 weeks later
#4460 2 years ago

does anyone have the tree eye mod and have the lights inside sometimes turn off? Now I'm down to 1 remaining tree with eyes but sometimes the others come back on. Any suggestions or experience with this happening? I was squeezing the tree and sometimes that will get light back on but has trouble staying on consistently.

#4462 2 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

re solder the led wires as they have no doubt cracked off. This has happened a couple times to a few of my customers with this WOZ MOD set. I went with leds in eyes myself and have never had an issue.

Thanks. I didn't install these - came like this. Where is the solder point on these? Are they in the trees themselves so I would need to unhook the trees from their posts or is it below the tree themselves?

I love your updated trees btw.

1 month later
#4846 2 years ago

guys - what's the easiest way to take the trees off or at least allow me to get in there to potential solder the lighted eyes to work again b/c two of three don't anymore. It was a mod already installed.

#4848 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

1/4” nut driver. Sockets tend to be too fat to fit in that area.
The trees are basically made from something kinda like dog squeaky toy material so it’s flexible but can tear so be careful.
Worst case I think they are reasonably priced if you need new ones.

Thanks!

1 week later
#4889 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

1/4” nut driver. Sockets tend to be too fat to fit in that area.
The trees are basically made from something kinda like dog squeaky toy material so it’s flexible but can tear so be careful.
Worst case I think they are reasonably priced if you need new ones.

So i tried 1/4" but they seem to big. These screws are very small. Any other suggestions to remove the trees so I can adjust the glowing eyes?

#4909 2 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

Well, I had walk away from the ruby red today. Less than 200 plays and had the upper playfield chipping. All the 2.0 games I have looked at have had this issue. I have friends with 2013 run games with no chipping. This appears to be a issue at this point. I have passed on 3 now with the chipping issue. I guess I will look for NIB and add cliffy and protection immediately

sorry to hear - is that the bottom circle on the munchkin pf?

2 weeks later
#5008 2 years ago

I was able to escape the light issues for some time (on the 1.75 boards) but I noticed this recently. What's weird is that all the lights work and change color during the tests so it's not like there is a few that are out and I can tell easily what the culprit is.
What's happening is the lights will be on and then all of a sudden the majority start flickering white really fast. One thing I did notice was when I put all lights on white, all but 1, 2, 4, 8, 10, 18 and 20 turn white. Those turn blue except for 4 and 8 which turn purple. Lights that are on the w6 board seem to not be effected at all.
Any thoughts or experience that others have faced seeing this before? I ended up jumping 8 but no luck. Also jumped 3 no luck. Regrouping!
Video

Added over 2 years ago: EDIT - issue has been fixed. Thanks guys!

#5010 2 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Mine has done this spontaneously in the past. (re-seating both power and data connections on the board seemed to solve it for me)
When all lights are white, its drawing the most power (all three LED's on each board at full brightness) generally speaking, if this is the time when things go wonky the most, I am thinking loose cable or poor connection between pins some where.
Pop that sucker up and disconnect/re-connect the cables to the light boards (I would do them all) to make sure they have a good connection.
That's where I would start.

Thanks! When you say, "(re-seating both power and data connections on the board seemed to solve it for me)" - what board did you do this on? The board behind the back box?

2 weeks later
#5054 2 years ago

big D welcome to the club!

Such a great game!

#5056 2 years ago
Quoted from ASOA:

That's what she said.

haha well played!

1 year later
#8046 10 months ago

So I'm joining the club very soon (ecle finally) and plan to buy that throne room mod. Does anyone know where on the light board the throne room plugs in?

Pics to come... Should have by EOD.

Thanks

#8049 10 months ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

It goes into a GI circuit. Not 12v, 6.8v max for throne room mod. Hardest part was finding the open connector in the harness.

The led strip that lights the throne room connects to where though? Is there a pic in the manual?

#8054 10 months ago

So the ecle is in the house and it's probably the nicest Pinball machine I've ever seen. As a previous RR owner, this really takes it over the top with the green and wood apron. I'm also a sucker for the topper. The wizard and the fire really had an impact on me when I watched this as a kid... Loved that part.

Although I still don't think it's an amazing shooter, it has enough variety in there and the sounds, music, voices and video clips really are the best jjp has done period. The lighting in this game is pure magic. It's amazing how jjp pulled this game off game 1. Their ability to tell a story and make you feel like you are part of the oz world is crazy. World under glass for sure and it has me shaking my head even more thinking about how Wonka turned out and what it could have been if jjp was still OG JJP.... But then again they might not be in business if they kept that up!

I also never saw the direct print cab in person before buying this version. Wow. Simply wow. It really is a shame they don't do direct print anymore. Gorgeous. This game must have blown people's minds in 2013.
20190707_182916 (resized).jpg20190707_182924 (resized).jpg20190707_182932 (resized).jpg

#8057 10 months ago
Quoted from Daditude:

I firmly believe that the ECLE is by far the best looking woz. Of course, I like my mods on pinballs too...and there are sone great mods for it. Are you planning on doing any modifications?

Def:
mirrors
throne mod

Maybe:
Guard Light
Balloon Light
Tornado (although it blocks the back right corner oz area)...

Prob won't though (3 above). This game is SO loaded I've seen so many overload it and it's just too much.

#8066 10 months ago
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:

JJP Art Blades are simply beautiful...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image] ...(I must add that the YBR Translite it is very nice too )... [quoted image]

can you buys those sep? Can you take a top down full pic

#8068 10 months ago

Hmm I was going mirrors but those look good ....

#8089 10 months ago
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:

It is a Translite Eric.
Knowing that the YBR it is not a Collector’s, I must say that honestly JJP did a great job with these upgrades. So far the only thing that I did it was to put some wood look alike in that small spot to cover the white ceiling, I don’t know if all of the versions came with that white space...
[quoted image]

Thanks. I'm going to buy those instead of mirrors. they look great

#8108 10 months ago

Anyone know where you can buy a tornado statue or miniature? I don't need one that has LED flickering and it's almost $100 - just something super simple. Did a quick Amazon and eBay search and found nothing....

#8166 10 months ago
Quoted from Coindropper:

Finally joined as well! ECLE with 2.0 light boards. I need to move it by my POTC LE and DI LE. Only issue I’m having is my topper isn’t lighting and I need to add some mods. Too bad the best ones aren’t available...[quoted image][quoted image]

hard to find ECLE AND 2.0. Nice!

#8170 10 months ago
Quoted from bigbadmiker:

Just the flash. It’s all stock. Now I need to find mods. Sounds like Back Alley Mods walls are the way to go, but same dilemma with the witch. I really dislike the tube. I was originally going to pick up the Modfather ones with well.

Am I the only one who doesn't mind the tube? Yes smoking witch is cool but I'm fine with the tube if I can't get one.

That damn monkey though.... That is awesome

#8172 10 months ago

Damn phone... Corrected

#8177 10 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Which part of the movie does the tube relate to?
It's a huge after thought, at least that is what it looks like.

I just see it as the witch being displayed and it's a clear tube so she's protected. I get your point but for some reason I actually like it.

I used to have the smoking witch and I really wasn't impressed. The red just looked like bubbles to be.

I'm still looking for one for my new game but thats just bc well why not... Haha

That monkey though really makes a difference.

#8198 10 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Just placed an order for my WOZ, that "Green Edition" that Automated is selling.
Super excited but have to wait until the weekend to get it.

how much are those? Curious considering the price of the ybr edition is 9500 i think.

#8203 10 months ago
Quoted from Extraballz:

I think YBR is $11,500

jesus.

#8246 10 months ago

so I need some help with strategy. I understand locking balls for MB, rescue MB, trying to defeat the which but what do you guys do first or how do you approach it? I also don't understand the haunted forest modes or why crystal ball is important besides making it harder to play.

Also - munchkin land - any strategy besides trying to hit every switch in the game since it's more points? Is it just a super awesome switch mode?

I think this game is still the most beautiful pinball ever made.

#8249 10 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

A while back, I started a strategy thread. I haven't looked back at it in some time, but there are likely good pointers in there.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-strategies-for-points-and-for-the-quest

Thanks everyone!

Btw installing the tornado mod and noticed what appears to be as light board hanging out in the back. Normal and if got washer does it go? It's right behind monkey

20190718_191219 (resized).jpg
#8251 10 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Lights up the Capture Dorthy insert on the back wall of the playfield. Mounts behind the wall.
LTG : )

Yep just noticed thanks.

Seems like it just slips right into #11.

#8340 10 months ago

Jjp yellow brick side blades on the ECLE....I really like them.

This game is just stunning. It does better than I was giving credit for too. I forgot a number of the shots it has. It's not just up the middle.

20190723_170901 (resized).jpg20190723_170910 (resized).jpg20190723_170916 (resized).jpg20190723_170904 (resized).jpg
#8388 10 months ago

wet method worked fine for the install of my blades (from pingraffix - the JJP official ones I posted earlier).

#8393 10 months ago

so could be a silly question but does continously turning on and off the machine put more "stress" on the light boards or is it better to just turn it on once and let it play throughout the day even if you're not using it a ton?

#8399 10 months ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

CPU still going to go through boot process, and can't imagine it causing any additional stress on the boards.
I'm always concerned w heat causing component failure, so my vote would be like all my devices...On when I want use them, off when not. Trying to keep "operational hours" as low as possible.

Thanks guys

#8407 10 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Here are pics. the second pic, you can see the green lights under the etching on. Again, they seem dim..[quoted image][quoted image]

Led strip is bad. They go very easily

#8427 10 months ago

has anyone designed something to cover what appears to be a metal tab right in front of the emerald city? It really is the only thing that stands out that's not "pretty" to look at....

1 week later
#8495 9 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Lol, ok mr. sensitive. Time to grow some pinballs...

Hey rager - I wasn't going to say anything but then you're telling someone to grow pinballs? How about you don't be a jerk off and care so much about how many points you get on a big toy?

Guess what? Nobody cares

#8499 9 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I told him that after he repeatedly kept going at me. Ive never seen someone get so uptight over something so simple..
This is pinball, the machine is made for scoring. That is the point of the machine.

Not for me it isn't and many others.... It's about having fun.. Point being no one wants to hear you tell others about how a game should be setup. I'm seeing you do the same thing in the Ghostbusers thread. It's douchey. Just stop it.

Then you're telling a guy to grow a pair? That's just too much. Chill.

2 weeks later
#8662 9 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

They will fail. Regardless of voltage, buffer, etc, the 1.x lighting systems will ALL fail prematurely because the design is inherently flawed. It's not a question of IF, but WHEN.
Get the 2.0 kit while it's still pretty cheap and your working 1.0 boards still have value to resell and offset the upgrade cost.

what exactly is required to change these? Any soldering or just unplug and replug? Is it the same thing over and over which is time consuming or is it different things we need to do throughout the 2 days?

#8694 9 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

They are selling it at cost and put a lot of time into developing the kit in the first place. If they gave everyone the kit for free, everyone would take one. Why not? Lets say there are 2,000 WOZs with the old system. That would be a $1.6 million cost for JJP. Let’s say there are 3,000. That would be $2.4 million. I’m not sure what the actual numbers are, but the out of pocket expense adds up quickly. JJP is not Apple. Smaller companies can’t always afford to do what larger companies can. I think it is amazing that JJP took the time in putting together the kit in the first place and offering support for those who need to do it. When you see the kit, you will realize it was no trivial task putting it all together.

You think it's "amazing" jjp took the time to put the kit together? Are you serious? The company releases what appears to be a broken design and instead of fixing it they put the responsibility on the consumer to not only make the change themselves but pay for it too.

Isn't it amazing too that jjp will increase the price!..... What a company

Seriously only in pinball would this even stand. I'm part of the problem too. I'm still buying from jjp and have a WoZ bc it's a great machine (light issue free this far) but I would never say anything positive about how this was handled. They should be offering it for free. 800 is not their cost....regardless of what the "insiders" say.

#8706 9 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Pfft. Most auto manufacturers have SOME defective component (or a major component, hello Ford transmissions) that they know will fail prematurely. If it fails outside warranty the BEST you can hope for is some consideration of the cost of replacement. Ford Taurus transmissions failed regularly just outside warranty. In their quest to hit mileage standards, Honda made millions of Odysseys with leaky cylinder rings that caused them to eat a quart or more of oil a month. They had a limited recall when FORCED to, but the majority of these were not covered as an actual defect. There are thousands of examples like these in autos.
The auto industry is not what you want to point to as the altruistic answer to issues of premature failure out of warranty.

Vireland - I would suggest that you stop blindly supporting what is an obvious FU to consumers that paid for a failed design. I really have a hard time respecting someone that is willing to be sh*t on by a company (regardless of their size) and I know you contribute a lot to these boards and in a positive way but this is just way beneath you. Enough.

2 weeks later
#8778 8 months ago

so I'm clear on the strategy to progress in the game to see everything but just curious - what is the strategy for just highest points?

#8809 8 months ago

Darker? Didn't think that was possible.

Pinstadiums look great on this game... Just make sure to NOT put them on full blast otherwise it will oversaturate

1 week later
#8880 8 months ago

If anyone has a red witch mod they don't need pm me...... Thanks

#8900 8 months ago

I would consider the only LE of WoZ to be the ECLE and the direct print version being the ultimate version

2 weeks later
#8989 7 months ago
Quoted from adol75:

Nevermind, I found it

Just reading your updates I'm shaking my head saying wow jjp wtf. Who wants to spend time on this. Such a shame.

Good luck though looks like you're getting through and almost done

#9086 7 months ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Thanks for the info. Found the coil and tests ok. The switch screws were completely lose. Aligned and tightened and appears to be working now.

the amount of issues from a brand NEW game is crazy. Sorry to hear.

#9137 7 months ago

so I keep on finding myself playing this game the same way:

witch SS
Then locks
mix in YBR shot to get dorothy even captured
Line up Munchkin mode when start MB
Try to get other MB going with castle

Is anyone else playing a diff way that I can mix it up a little but still make sense to progress well?

1 week later
#9208 7 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Don't forget the ECLE also has the direct print cabinets instead of decals. They and a very rare few early standards are the only ones like that.

I don't think all ECLE has direct right?

Direct print to me are the best. You can always see the start of decals - it's cheapens the game imo.

1 week later
#9258 6 months ago

I actually feel bad for the 2.0 light owners. There is a significant difference in the pop of the lights. From experience I would pass altogether on a WoZ that was 2.0 bc so much of what I like about WoZ is that ultra bright hazy looking dream like look out of the bright rgb inserts. No other machine looks like it even other jjp bc of the new boards. I have a Hobbit right next to our woz and the WoZ absolutely smokes it in that category.

I think the board issues are also overblown. I've owner 4 WoZ at this point. All 7.5 and maybe replaced 1 board ? It just hasn't been an issue and certainly not one where I would compromise the pop of the machine.

#9291 6 months ago
Quoted from SDpinballer:

That being said, I did order Pinstadiums today. Hope to remember to update you all. I like to play my games in a dark room and WoZ is just a little too dark for me. Going to give the pinstadiums a try. I know expensive compared to other options. But I thought the ability to change background colors is fun/useful and will provide multiple different experiences...

Pinstadiums are a necessity in this game but make sure you don't go full power otherwise you'll completely kill the light show

#9350 6 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

If you had that large of a difference, something was VERY different about your machine or you didn't center the GI leds on the tubes at install of the 2.0 kit. But in any case, buy a few spotlights, problem solved. Not worth bitching about. WoZ is not the only pin with a dark playfield.

I'm just curious... what would it take for you to NOT defend JJP? You have a company that's admitted their boards have a design defect... they then charge customers for the replacement boards and expect them to spend a ton of time to install them.

After ALL of that people are reporting the color is not as bright and you're going to tell them to stop bitching? You can't be serious. A better response would be sorry to hear - that's a ton of effort..... Little compassion would be nice....

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