Wizard of Oz
Jersey Jack, 2013
Wizard of Oz (Yellow Brick Road LE)
Jersey Jack, 2019You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider dcfan.
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Quoted from iceman44:Wow, yep, I get the "spinning" part!
and that upper loop pops back on me too many times.
If you are referring to the Witch castle playfield loop, I remember there was a thread on the JJP WOZ group about how to fix that shot rejection problem at the top of the loop.
Quoted from iceman44:I'm going to go find that fix, those shot rejections are brutal and usually end up in drains and it's tough enough to drop that winkie over and over again. Rescue MB is a big scoring stack with ECMB
I just bumped that thread to the top for you in the Google group. It is called "Search loop rejects".
Quoted from iceman44:Just saw it, thanks, looks like easy fix, raising the height of the wire form at the back of the loop for those having the same problem. That will help big time!
I am sure fixing it on your game will make that playfield way more fun. I have seen people hitting it around that loop several times with no reject problems.
Quoted from Leotis:Can someone help direct me to the google group thread on adjusting the castle loop coil. Can't seem to access the appropriate group / thread...a link would be very helpful...
You have to e-mail Jen at JJP to get access to the group.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:The countdown is on....distributor says these should ship end of summer....cant wait to get this in our office. Going to the office to work will be WAY less painful.
WOZ+Ruby+Flyer_v9C-page-0.jpg 171 KB
I am so sick of dates and estimates.
Quoted from herg:I was able to find the answer to my own question, in the manual of all places!
Rev 1.3 boards are the original 7.5V ones, and Rev 1.4 boards include a buffer to drive the signals rather than relying on the outputs on the LED driver.
I had a few cases last night where the Crystal Ball VUK kicked the ball hard enough that it flew out of the habitrail and into the outlane. Finding that I could individually control the power of the VUK coil was another extremely pleasant surprise.
Then, what are those Rev 1.1 7.5V boards Mato pictured above? 
Quoted from arcadenerd925:It was just draining way too easily.. however, I will say this, now that I have had it for some time and I'm "better" at the game, I could probably live with it in its original location. YMMV
Quoted from DaveH:Well I can't speak for most people, but I did. I very rarely do things like that, but I was going dozens of games without starting Rescue. It felt unfair to me, so I switched it to the other hole. Rescue is still tough, but that post gives you an extra chance or two to get it. Others may say its cheating, but moving that made it just right. If I ended up starting Rescue every game I would have moved it back. I like my games difficult, but fun.
That is exactly what I was thinking. I have not yet had a lot of time to master the nuances of playing the Witch castle playfield and think I should move the post in. It is easily the area of the playfield that I am struggling with the most. If it gets too easy then later I definitely will move it back.
Quoted from DaveH:I did mine without having to pull the castle playfield. Just pull out the main playfield and prop it on the rails. I used a screw driver and needle nose pliers. Just do it easy and slow, and yes, there is a washer between the nut and the bottom of the playfield (don't drop it). It only takes a couple of minutes.
Thanks. It looks really easy compared to removing both mini playfields which I already did to install the Cliffys and Borygard's full plastic protector set.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:nobody? did i miss something some where else?
Look at post #11 in this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-always-get-skill-shot-score-before-i-shoot-the-ball
The position of the switches can be moved a little (and thus changing the sensitivity) by sliding the bracket holding the switches.
Quoted from TaylorVA:In the newest code did it revert back to Twister taking precedence over a lock?
Lock takes precedence in the code that came out around August (version 4.1).
Quoted from NightTrain:Well thanks! Not quite yet...but hopefully.
One more question. Has any of you ever lost the key to their WOZ? Current owner misplaced the key. He was going to call JJP today to see if they would have a replacement key for it. My guess is that they wouldn't have that information on file and that drilling would be the only option? Anyone?
Oh and if drilling is required, is the coindoor lock the same as a Stern?
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=20
Is the game missing both keys or just the backbox key? The backbox key is hung just inside the coin door.
Quoted from Rick432:How strong is the castle miniplayfield flipper supposed to be?
Mine is kind of weak, but very playable. I had assumed it was supposed to be like that, but someone posted about their flipper coil stop needing to be tightened and loc-tited, to get that flipper strong and behaving like it should.
I just don't want to have to deal with removing the castle PF if there isn't anything wrong with that flipper being weakish.
Check the settings to see if you are below the default setting for that coil. I believe the settings that are the default light up green.
Quoted from NightTrain:Does someone have a pic of which way the topper is supposed to go on a standard? I didn't put mine on. Bought it with it on. Looking at pics of other machines....mine may be backwards? Here's a pic of mine.
image.jpg
You do have the topper reversed unless they started etching them reversed. The etched side should be on the back.
Quoted from Blu:As I have been looking into what my next pin will be, I've been reading quite a bit about WoZ, and I remember reading somewhere that folks were looking for the rules for WoZ. Not sure if someone has already posted it, but they have a rule sheet up at PAPA. http://papa.org/2015/05/18/wizard-of-oz-rulesheet/
Thanks for posting. What is the contact to give them feedback on things that are incomplete?
Quoted from TaylorVA:when a ball gets locked behind the Winkie drop target should the drop target go down in ball search? Just had this happen and it never lowered the target.
The drop target should go down in ball search. I was doing some glass off checking of the Haunted rules (see other thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wizard-of-oz-rulesheet-2#post-2462369 ) and saw that the drop target does go down when ball search is cycling . There is a small second coil on the drop target mechanism that causes the target to drop.
Quoted from indypinhead:I was playing a game on WOZ the other night. The ball got stuck behind the drop target. The game went into ball search....the drop target never dropped. I had to shut the game off, remove the PF glass, and remove the ball myself.
I think JJP should do a software update that will make the drop target drop during ball searches.
Is your software from the last couple versions?
Also, you may want to go into coil test while the Winkie target is up and test the coil to see if it is working to make the target drop.
Quoted from TZBen:whats your strategy for shooting the behind the flipper shot for horse of a different color?
I usually do not do it on purpose. I don't see it as valuable enough to warrant the risk.
Quoted from Pimp77:It's EXTREMELY valuable if you did well on a munchkin mode that ball. WELL worth getting.
Are you saying the horse of a different color behind flipper shot factors into the end of ball bonus?
Quoted from herg:If I'm remembering correctly, there's actually a whole table full of possible multipliers based on your collection of horses. I want to say up to like 6x for 3 different non-rainbow horses, plus a cow. I still don't ever shoot at it on purpose. I'm playing for progression first, points second.
Edit: No, I was wrong, the multiplier I was thinking of was for the HOADC cashout score. Here's the rules for the Munchkin multiplier.+ Munchkin Multiplier: Now, when successfully completing a HOADC level, you
are awarded a Munchkin Multiplier which affects any and all Munchkin modes
you played that ball. Winning a 4-horse level adds .5x; 5-horse 1x; 6-horse
1.5x; and 7-horse 2x. The maximum is 10x. Remember this is scored at end
of ball bonus now.
I am confused by the horse thing. I thought the bottom left of the screen only went up to 5 horses/cows. How do you get 6 or 7 horses?
Quoted from herg:After each successful HOADC collect, the next one increases the number of horses you have to collect.
I don't know what there is to be confused about.
Thanks, that clarifies it for me.
That is what I was confused about. I did not know the collect was how the number of horses increased.
Quoted from TaylorVA:Anyone else have an issue with the lock playback showing the three characters locked in the balls? When my ball was over it would not let me re lock the characters to restart ECMB and the lock insert was frozen red. I posted on the JJP forum as well.image.jpg image.jpg
That sounds like a CPU error, or less likely a software glitch. I have never had that happen.
I assume if you hit the ramp shot the ball would not lock?
After reading your description in the WOZ group that the lock insert stayed red for another game that makes me think it could be a light board problem ( from memory I think that is W6), but typically the rest of the lights would also not be functioning if that was the case since W6 is first in the chain. I guess I then go back to the software or CPU error.
Quoted from herg:I know I've seen new code mentioned before, but I honestly can't think of anything that I could ask for. The software is what makes WOZ great.
Fixing the ball saver to allow for settling into the trough is coming. 
There is also something about the crystal ball being prompted to react quicker I believe.
Keith posted the preliminary code notes on the WOZ google group a few days ago.
Quoted from cscmtp:Where is the best place to buy a rubber ring kit for Woz? I just had a rubber break at the very top of the playfield (right underneath where you have the rollovers to increase your bonus before the pop bumpers. Thought it was odd that the rubber was white when it looks like every other rubber in the game is black. Maybe the 1st owner had one break and changed it out with white?
I recommend Titan competition silicone, especially for that ring that takes a beating from the slingshot.
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52
Quoted from Chosen_S:Does anyone know the adjustment option to keep the extra ball score minimum from rising?
According to the manual page B-22 there is a replay boost setting and there is a score award boost setting. You can turn those to off.
Quoted from DaveH:I liked the replay setting boosting for a replay, and set scoring levels for an extra ball. Just because I really liked the replay light show, but didn't want it every game.
To me if you are going to have an extra ball award it should be for a fixed score to give comparable results between each game you play. For when a replay is awarded I agree it does not matter when or if it gives it out since it does not affect your score.
Quoted from TaylorVA:Finally! image.jpeg
The game is always super fun when you get scores in the 1 million ballpark.
Quoted from paynemic:Where did you wire these spots into the game for power? I'm considering doing this. Doesn't Woz run on some sort of different voltage?
You can connect to the existing spotlights in WOZ, but you have to use 12 volt LEDs.
Quoted from nicoga3000:I have SO many wonderful things to say about this game from a game play and rules standpoint, but I'm still putting them together for my review.
Until then, I need someone to weigh in on this...I've felt the clear, and it's not chipped. It looks like a bubble UNDER the clear. Should I be worried?
20160331_173914_(resized).jpg
There is a piece of mylar in front of the Throne room VUK.
Quoted from Vexx_182:Can anyone PM me a list of instructions or a good video showing full steps on how to set up the usb stick etc to download the full new 6.06 software. I dont want to make any mistakes and have something go wrong with the install because i missed a simple step somewhere. Thanks for your time.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wizard-of-oz-v505-now-available#post-2744055
The metal ball guide has an additional pre-drilled hole in the playfield. You need to move the ball guide to the outlane narrowing pre-drilled hole and then you can easily move the post with the rubber without any difficulty.
Quoted from system11:Now I look at the video frame by frame, it looks like it's actually rolling / bouncing out from inside of the rubber edge. Seems that when the motor jerks to a stop the ball moves to the left then releases, hits the wireform on the left of the captive area giving it enough momentum to bounce & roll up the foam. So I want the monkey to move slightly less far.
Make the switch that is triggered by the monkey at the top slightly more sensitive and see if that fixes it (to get it to drop the ball just a hair quicker).
EDITED: make more sensitive not less
Quoted from system11:My celebration was in error - the monkey is still dropping the ball onto the playfield every time... It seems like it would be easy to improve in code, when the monkey stops, wait half a second and then drop the ball. I need a higher frame rate camera because testing this and getting a clear picture of what the problem still is, is hard.
It appears to be dropping the ball too late and thus the ball hits the metal bar and bounces back and over the rail.
Make the switch more sensitive and the ball will drop earlier. The switch is at the top of the diagonal monkey guide rails.
Another thing that could be tried is to put some drop dead foam on the rail where the ball is dropping, but that would be a last resort for me.
Quoted from indypinhead:Yes, I have drop targets machined out of polycarbonate.
Can you sell them as an option without the light assembly? Most of us with WOZ already have a light installed.
Quoted from merccat:Heres what i believe to be the one described:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PP&Product_Code=JJP-30-0012-02
Originally the games were shipping with the ruby bats. They were having a few reports of breaking so they replaced them with black.
I am guessing the plastic infused with sparkles caused them to be slightly weaker than a normal bat.
Quoted from Jakers:So there's no more "might be joining" this club. My RRWOZ is being delivered tomorrow. I have a question about moving it. I'd like to be able to keep it in the box while moving it downstairs for protection. Is it ok to turn the machine onto it's side while moving it down the stairs? I would assume it's ok as long as the machine doesn't go upside down? From my research of the box size, it's 31x30x57.5 and that should be able to fit into my basement.
You only want to set it on the side that says "truck this side only" or the bottom/pallet side.
Quoted from Jakers:Where do the rainbow lights connect to the main board? I've checked the connectors at the light board and they're both plugged in however, the 2-wire plug that's under the "W" has a lot of pressure on it leaning against the ball guide. It's like the rainbow plastic and light board aren't screwed into the correct spot on the munchkin playfield. There's a lot of pressure being put on that plug.
Also just realized the left tree pop bumper doesn't work. I hear it making a noise in test mode though. Gonna check on that tomorrow.
The rainbow board is the last in the string. If you have other lights that are acting up then I doubt the Rainbow connectors are the problem.
See post 4 in this thread where I have made a cheat sheet to follow the LED board connections:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/on-going-led-issues#post-3069284
Quoted from paynemic:Thanks guys. Drilling freaks me out. Heck, I don't even want to remove the mini-pf...
You do not have to pre-drill the screw holes. The screws will drive in the wood without hurting the playfield.
Quoted from Jakers:I'm installing my lit drop target and need to know if this is where I plug into. I believe it's the upper castle spotlight wire. Everything in my head points towards yes but I just want to make sure with the experts. Thanks.
From memory I believe the light blue and black wires go to the spotlights. The spots are what you want to tap off of for 12 volts lights so that should be correct.
It should not matter which spotlight connector is tapped into as long as you have enough length to mount the light where you want it.
If you take out that metal guide screw that is near the red slippers image in the picture above there is an additional hole that allows the guide to be mounted in a more narrow position. It cannot be seen without taking out the screw.
You don't need to notch or cut the guide. On the left outlane both the post and the guide have pre-drilled second holes to make the outlane narrower.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-outlane-posts-setup
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cant-adjust-left-outlane
Wizards Mist and Shine:
https://www.amazon.com/Wizards-01214-Mist-N-Shine-Professional-Detailer/dp/B002U729UA/ref=sr_1_1
You can use it often. It reduces static on the playfield and shines it up a little. For a more thorough but light cleaning I use Novus 1.
Quoted from Eskaybee:(Novus 1) That's what I typically use once a week on my pins for a quick cleaning. Btw, I'm picking up a WOZ standard tomorrow! So if all goes well, I'll be in the club this weekend.
I'm not much of a mod guy, but are there Any must have mods? I have Indys light up winky drop target on the way as well as lollipop decals for the rainbow targets. I was thinking about getting the castle walls + witch but looks like a pain to install so may wait a few weeks to make sure I'm gonna keep the game for awhile LOL.
The Mezel firepots mod is one of my favorites.
Quoted from GorfFan:Where do I buy my mylar and what do you all use to cut it?
For WOZ, JJP has pre-cut mylar sets available.
Quoted from capguntrooper:uuuuuuuugh I can not wait to join this club when I get back state side.
Keep safe in the meantime. Thank you for your service. 
Quoted from Eskaybee:I thought the 4 jewels in the center represent progression towards BTWW? Isn't there 8 jewels to collect for SOTR?
As for HOADC, it typically shows horses in bottom left corner, but are you saying it shows yet another different horse if you've successfully collected a set?
I believe it is 4 emeralds to get battle the witch, and 8 jewels to get to SOTR.
https://images.pinside.com/8/ac/01/8ac01eb67d6e51067b95745d12ad5a4a6930f8a3.pdf#page23
Wizard Mode: Somewhere Over The Rainbow
Collect all 8 Jewels to light SOTR at the ramp. The 8 jewels that must be collected are listed below and method of collection described in more detail above.
Complete Wicked Witch Battle (liquidate the wicked witch)
Master Fireball Frenzy (collect 10 jackpots)
Start Munchkin Multiball (play all munchkin modes)
Travel the Yellow Brick Road (advance 50 times)
Complete Emerald City Multiball (collect 3 gifts)
Start Flipper Frenzy (play all crystal ball modes)
Complete Rescue Multiball (score a mega jackpot)
Start Haunted Forest Multiball (play all haunted modes)
After starting SOTR at the ramp the ball will be stopped so you can be given instructions on how to proceed. The instructions are given in dramatic fashion as:
3 rainbows lit on castle, shots, & targets
Color value goes up each shot
Quoted from Eskaybee:Thanks guys; i see the status page for SOTR now.
Now if only i can get HOADC collected with a big munchkin mode so i can boost past 500k
Are you getting haunted multiball. There are huge points there as well.
Quoted from zutton1:Ok got another question for owners with decals on cabinet. I know that decals show imperfections in wood if not sanded down. So one side of my pin looks great but the other looks like crap...see pictures. Has anyone else noticed this on their machine? Is this common? Thanks
Did you get that new in box?
That looks like a crappy repair job. It should have been sanded and made smooth.
Quoted from merccat:I think my new settings after this weekend will be:
- 7 second ball saver (just enough to catch those balls you don't even have a chance to touch)
- 3 Ball
- Extra Ball for special
- Otherwise factory.
I find that having a hot ball makes or breaks games for me so 4 or 5 ball and lots of extra ball rewards doesn't help me
Much. The one time I scored 2 mil was mostly from a single ball.... dang, why couldn't I pull that off this weekend
I believe those are the settings I used as well.
Quoted from Allibaster:Can someone help me cross reference a part number for a JJP part? It's the switch for the crystal ball spinner. JJP's part number is 18-3003-00. Looking to get the generic part number so I can order from Pinball Life tonight and have it by this weekend.
Is there a cross reference list for JJP's parts against Bally/Williams?
It is most likely a DB3.
Quoted from Allibaster:I did not know that. Didn't JJP's flipper bat have problems with breaking?
I have some epoxy. Should stay on there for good.
Some of the sparkly red bats were breaking but I don't think it was a high percentage of them. They switched to black bats sometime in 2014.
The red slippers can be re-installed with gel superglue if they come off of the bats. I have been lucky and mine have not come off. I don't believe that there have been many reports of the slippers actually breaking.
Quoted from rai:Sounds great, only concern is the GI light, TH is way better I'm sorry Woz was not improved with a running update.
All that is needed on WOZ is one spotlight near the crystal ball, one near the Wizard-with-Toto plastic and one in the trough.
Quoted from capguntrooper:Thats odd. If you go to JJP web site it has the slippers pictured installed already
Quoted from clg:The slippers have always been there, they just changed the flipper bats at some stage
Yes, the slippers should be on the game from the factory. I am referring to the bats being black. The slippers are glued to the top of the bats.
From memory, I think I was able to replace that rubber by only removing some of the screws so that I could lift the back of the mini-playfield up a little.
On different note, I just tilted away a 969,000 end of ball bonus. 
Quoted from Eskaybee:Thanks guys. I'll tackle that beast in the morning.
Holy crap on that bonus! That's huge. I'm laughing in sadness for you - gotta love some of the rules involved in this game.
FYI, The steps for removing the Munchkin playfield are on pages E-4 and E-5.
Like I said above, you don't have to completely remove it to get to the rubber but the steps in the instructions should help you get it loose to replace the rubber.
Quoted from Eskaybee:Also, the game calls for a 2" rubber in that spot. Thinking about replacing with a 2 1/2" so it doesn't break as easy, any thoughts on that?
I would put a 2" Titan in there. 2.5 is probably too big.
Quoted from Eskaybee:I was able to get some mini pliers under the plastic to get the first nut off. That second is partially under the ramp though so gonna be a bit tougher to access. I gotta bail in a few so might not get to it today.
Can you get a box head wrench on the one that is under the ramp edge?
Quoted from Buzz:Does anyone know if the rainbow lights are one unit? My b doesn't do white or blue. And where can I order a replacement. Thank you for any help.
Yes. It is board W10:
Quoted from GorfFan:Wow! Is this the most helpful instructions I've seen. If you made this then man I'm bow to your greatness! *bow-bow-bow*. If this is a reprint from the WoZ manual then thanks for the reprint. My manual is enroute. I've only owned my WoZ for 4 days and trying to learn the rules, so this info will be immensely helpful.
Thanks. I did make the 2nd and 3rd pages (thus they are unofficial but I believe to be 100% accurate). JJP made the first image/page.
Quoted from capguntrooper:Does anyone have any input on how the play field protectors affect the roll overs?
I don't think they are needed for a home game, and many have reported that they have a negative affect on the switch sensitivity.
I do recommend the Cliffy inlane switch slot protectors.
I should have also said the munchkin playfield edge Cliffy and the other hole/VUK cliffys. I also use the trough eject cliffys on my games.
He may have some available that are carbon fiber.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/WOZ/woz-ejectset4.jpg
http://www.passionforpinball.com/WOZ/woz-munchkin-1.jpg
Quoted from 1quartershort:WOZ GI lighting
I am thinking about enhancing the GI lighting but do not really need the full kit that is available. Thinking about adding three spots, one mounted on the existing post for Dorothy house light and another new post with two spots near the crystal ball VUK. Plan was to tap into the L4 plug for the house spot and the L1 (may have them backwards) for the castle spot. Thinking I would just make a wye harness at each plug for the tap rather than messing with any of the factory wiring-plus it would be easily removable. Bulbs would be 12v led of course. Question is will the existing wiring etc handle the additional load? I am assuming that the led draw is minimal but not an expert.
Thanks,
The existing spotlight circuit can handle three additional bright 12v LEDs with no problem.
Quoted from delt31:really getting into this game now after have for a few days. Yesterday I played for almost 3 hours. Never had that happen before (at one time). The game is just so complex. I've owned TZ in the past but this one just has me coming back for more. Loving it. How the lighting changes during certain modes like munchkins is so impressive.
Regarding the shoot again option - I swear, sometimes I drain right in the beginning and it goes right to ball 2. Is there something special about shoot again with this game?
Also - any tips for a newbie to rack up the points?
Make sure you have the latest code so the ball saver works like most other games. It did not give any grace time with old code.
Quoted from Jakers:Well, the slippers lasted about 350 plays. At least it didn't break. What adhesive do you suggest using?
Gel super glue should work well.
Quoted from Eskaybee:So for noobs like myself; what volt LEDs should we be using to tie into WOZ and do you just tie into one of the GIs? Or other spot lights?
Tie into the spotlights. Use 12 volt LEDs.
I did similar to what Jim_Z did except I used only one spotlight on each side and mounted them a little lower. Having a spotlight facing toward the player would have been too blinding for me.
I also put a spotlight in the trough facing toward the ramp to have light throw from front to back.
The Comet Optix Maximus is a nice bright choice if you want to add a couple spotlights.
Quoted from delt31:thinking about putting an led strip which I usually clip to an existing light below the table for power. This new table - seems like they run on boards or something diff than old school. How would I go about clipping or adding a strip with the current tech used by WOZ? Want to put it behind the flippers.
Use a 12 volt strip and attach to the spotlight wiring.
Quoted from delt31:Thanks. I have something like this - would that work? Also - spotlight being right by the wizard? Assuming I can clip onto that from underneath?
http://www.cometpinball.com/MATRIX-20-SMD-5050-6-3V-LIGHTED-STRIPS-p/20smd6.3vstrip.htm
You would need the 12 volt version of that. The one you linked is 6 volt.
Quoted from delt31:OK - do they attach with alligator clips?
You probably would either need to use splice connectors or molex connectors with splitters. If you have the tools and know how the molex is the better way.
The red ones would work:
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/wireconnect.htm
This is what the splice connectors look like after connection:
Quoted from merccat:Give them a call, i believe that they do. There is also factory pre-cut mylar available that would have protected that area.
Boy thats a lot of wear, was it a routed game and/or did the previous owner never clean the playfield?
Also, make sure to put new balls in the game.
Quoted from Phbooms:Whats the manufacturer date on back of your game? Thats alot of damage for being NIB only 2 weeks old! Id be on the phone with my distributor and JJP, thats unacceptable!!!
It appears his game is likely from back when the games had some defective playfields from a different manufacturer:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-custom-message-question
Quoted from merccat:My thoughts as well. It looks look to have been well played and enjoyed.
Playfield pictures beyond the chips are a good reminder for anyone unsure about the importance of regular cleaning, wax and fresh balls.
Also, everybody should be putting the mylar on WOZ around the pop bumpers. If your game did not have it installed at the factory, JJP has supplied the pre-cut mylar to owners for free.
Quoted from Farmboss:I have half of my rainbow lights out and the first T and last O of TOTO out. Does this seem more like a light board issue or a connection issue ? I have an early game.
See post #66:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only?tu=dcfan
Start with the right slingshot light board and check connectors/connections from board 21 through 26 to see if the TOTO lights can be resolved.
I believe the game needs to be off when disconnecting and connecting light boards.
Quoted from GorfFan:Thank you for the great advice and I will have to see who sells a magnetic bowl. I have most of the other parts you mentioned including the magnetic retrieval tool. I don't have the Klein magnetic nut drivers, but a non-magnetic long driver set from Titan Pinball that's very good quality but inexpensive. I did get a clip (with foam on the clips) on LED light from Lowes for $20, and I do use a brand new terrycloth towel every time I clean the glass or do any other work. You can get a pack of 50 towels on Amazon for $25, so towels for the playfield are easy.
The rubbers all came from https://www.titanpinball.com. I've been so very impressed with how the owner, Eric, has been very patient and helpful with my orders. The service couldn't be any better.
In your first picture, it looks like your slingshot rubbers are not mounted low enough on the flipper side.
Quoted from GorfFan:Thanks for the suggestion. I did find a flipper rubber that was to high! I also stretched one sling shot rubber because it kept bumping after the pinball would leave.
It is not the rubber that is the problem when it is constantly bumping the slingshot. You need to adjust the gap on the slingshot switches.
Quoted from Pinball-Pat:I'm not sure how many shots I need to make before loading the castle VUK. I'm always a little panicked wondering what to do next. Lol
You need to make 4 of the lit shots. I am fairly certain you can shoot any of the shots more than once to count toward the four needed. Then the Winkie VUK will be lit and after you load a ball there the other ball needs to shoot the ramp and combo to the witch when it falls off the munchkin playfield.
Quoted from GorfFan:I've lifted the play field and did my best to look for loose wires. I don't see any. I read my owners manual and emailed back and forth with JJ tech support. JJ tech support replied within 3 minutes of my submitted ticket.
"If your switch is still on. Then please go to Tests - Switches - Matrixed and push the drop target up and knock it down, see if it registers on the screen." I go to the Matrixed Switches screen and there isn't any instructions on how to go to a specific grid, nor does the printed manual explain, "you can manually test as many switches as you like."
How do you push the target up and down?
Make sure the switch is secure on the drop target assembly under the playfield:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-winkie-issue-different-from-other-posts
Quoted from n2vsw:We just received our NIB WOZ RR on wednesday. We had to wait until today to get it from the garage into the house and set up due to the weight of this thing. We had to wait for a few friends to come over and lend a hand. We unbox the new pin and get everything set up. We turn it on and wait for the machine to boot and it comes to life... sort of. The playfield lights are completely out. The monitor works and as far as we can tell the rest of the game works but there is no lighting. A quick call to the distributor who suggests looking for a loose connector somewhere. We didn't find anything loose on the playfield or the back of the metal box that houses the cpu. I opened the lid on the metal box and noticed a grey cable was not plugged into the i/o board. Its the same round grey cable that daisy chains to the led boards. This should be an easy fix, plug it back in right? The grey cable has a white plug on the end. This plug only fits one way in it's socket. The problem is the plug is currently attached to the socket but the socket is not on the i/o board. I don't know if it was accidentally pulled off the i/o board or if it's attached that way at the factory and was missed. The think I know where it goes but don't know what in orientation to install it. It can be installed with the plug release to the left or 180 degrees out. Any help or a picture would be appreciated.
Is it J4 on the unified power board? J4 is the RGB LED power. Page D-150 of the manual.
Quoted from n2vsw:Definitely not that board. The cable is grey with 5 small wires inside. The plug on the end of the cable has 5 pins in a single row. It comes into the aluminum box through a rubber grommet from the back right corner. The other wire that comes in through that grommet is a black cable. The grey cable is the same as the data cable that daisy chains the light boards.
Probably J802 on the I/O board then. see Page D138 of the manual. J802 is the RGB LED control.
Quoted from n2vsw:That little square on the end next to pin 1 is not the clip. The clip is on the long side of the socket.
The clip go towards the center of the board:
Quoted from Chosen_S:post some pics if you can, that will help us help you
I believe I just posted the pic he needs above your post. J802 is right next to U801.
You are real classy to down-vote me for a blank post above when I am the only person that has made any attempt to help n2vsw fix his disconnected connector problem. Bravo
Do newbs want help or not? If the people that are trying to help others get bashed then what is the point?
Quoted from Docb8456:I am new here and sorry if a repost, but my Woz 75 came a week ago and I am wondering if anyone else has the back glass on the top being rust color and orange. Mine is that way and all the pics I see online seem to look reddish with a purpleish tone. I think they did not make it properly, as it does not match the red theme at all. Also, were the numbers not consecutive, because mine is in the 300s yet some older posts show some in the 700s
See this picture below, based on the various photos posted it is the way most of the Ruby Red's seem to look:
Quoted from Docb8456:This is the color I am talking about. It seems like it is missing part of the dye maybe.
Call jjp.
Also, it appears your topper light is not lit.
Quoted from Docb8456:can anyone tell me how to make an adjustment to the home target in the there's no place like home area by the state fair balloon? the ball is getting stuck on it and not draining and I have to tilt to get it out
It may be helpful to post a picture when the ball is stuck.
Quoted from Docb8456:Sure thanks
It looks like both the "There's" and "Home" targets are out of position too much outwards. I believe you should be able to loosen them under the playfield a little and move them inward and then re-tighten the targets.
Quoted from kidchrisso:I heard that their new ones are version 2.0 with the bullet proof boards. I just placed an order through Jack last week for mine for that reason. I could have saved a couple hundred bucks through a distributor but decided to go right to the source.
Are you saying the light boards have been updated recently? If so, I hope they found an alternative for the discontinued chips they were using in WOZ.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-driver-replacment
Quoted from merccat:It would be interesting to see if someone with boards marked 2.0 could snap a couple pics.
So my boards are not 2.0, but appear to have had a post production factory fix applied. It looks like they are now using this controller (if I'm looking at things right):
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/sn74ahct125.pdf
I wonder if this is fix is equivalent to the 2.0 boards.
I thought those were just the buffer circuits they added to remedy the static electricity and signal lock ups.
Quoted from agodfrey:The red LED on "N" in rainbow on the munchkin PF isn't coming on. Plan on doing the normal wire jiggles but it seems like that is the only LED in the whole game acting up. And the green and blue work fine. Prob a wire issue or a LED issue? Seems like more LEDs would be acting up if it were a wire issue. But wondering if anyone has run accost this and where to start jiggling.
That sounds like the red of the RGB LED has failed. You likely need a new W10 board to fix it. Since the W10 board is the last light board in the string it should not affect any other lights in the game.
Quoted from Eskaybee:How much do the light boards typically cost to replace?
I don't know for sure but am guessing that one is around $20 to $50. Last I saw the largest light board was around $79 to $59.
They are going to want the old one back for repair/inventory.
Quoted from Nokoro:This diagram has appeared a few times in this thread. If a moderator or new editor is watching, they should make it a key post. I just bookmarked it.
If a mod is going to make a key post of the diagram, please use post #2329 in this thread since it has all three drawings/diagrams (1 JJP, 2 from me) that show the relationships of the light boards.
Quoted from agodfrey:Just got an email from Vic. W10 is $70 if you send the old one back if the machine is out of warranty. eskaybee
Thanks for the info. Not that I need a board, but that sounds reasonable to me.
Quoted from Skyemont:Ok, first issue. Had league night and WOZ gave out. It will not spit out balls. The game starts but will not put a ball in play. I don't know much about jjp games so here is my first issue.
Check fuse F706, the wire connections on the ball trough upkicker coil, and the connectors on the ball trough optos.
Quoted from Jakers:While we're on the subject of the winged monkey....my monkey operates correctly and picks up the ball from the playfield about 75% of the time. When he does pick the ball up, it's accompanied by a satisfying "snap" of the ball hitting the magnet under the monkey. When he fails to pick it up, the ball shifts a little bit on the play field magnet but when he leaves, the ball doesn't stick to his magnet at all and just goes into the OZ lanes. It's like the monkeys magnet doesn't energize.
Does anyone else have this problem and know of a solution?
The first thing I would try is some brand new pinballs.
Quoted from KingBW:I had the same problem (new pinballs by the way too). The limit switch at the bottom travel of the monkey was a little loose. I snugged that up and the monkey only misses picking up the ball maybe 1 out of 25 times now. Check and try that. Not sure why that improved the pickup, but might be a travel/magnet timing thing.
Yes, if the monkey is not making it to the point of being centered over the magnet then the switch is likely getting triggered too early.
Quoted from Skyemont:Issue fixed. Thanks to everyone who commented..
Great. Was it the fuse?
Quoted from bhwolf:I've had my Cliffys on order for some time now ... getting anxious each time an airball smacks that playfield ... do you remove the mini playfield to install?
Put some Velcro on the edge until the cliffy comes. The velcro has enough of a spongy quality to protect the edge for a while.
Quoted from paynemic:So I have an emerald green unit that was for sale a while back (not ecle, just had the green armor and rails, etc). It came with a topper that was a kind of silhouette of the emerald city. Maybe it's what was on the ecle. I'm not sure. Bottom line, I recently got a 75th topper and put it on. But lit up all green like the other topper, I don't think it looks very good. I should have gotten pictures. Sorry.
Is there a way to change the color of the lights that illuminate the topper? I looked in the settings but couldn't find anything. Thoughts?
You need a white light strip.
Quoted from Nokoro:I'm not following this and feel like I'm missing something. What is not being supplied anymore, and what does it do?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-driver-replacment#post-3315458
Quoted from pinballinreno:The part number is
a6281
Its a great all in 1 package, Im surprised they discontinued it, unless people just needed more channels.
http://hackaday.com/2009/06/29/parts-shiftbrite-rgb-led-module-a6281/
The driver (a6281) is the same, but I don't think that is the same LED chip that is used in WOZ.
Quoted from Deez:Anyone connected a Stern shaker to their Woz?
It would obviously be easier to use the correct one:
http://littleshopofgames.com/product/wizard-of-oz-shaker-motor-kit/
Quoted from audihere:What was the first to shaker motors doing that wasn't right?
Blowing fuses I believe.
Quoted from Frli002:Yes, can not use a Shaker from jjp on my woz, fuses blowing.
Call JJP. I think they have had that problem figured out for quite a while now.
Quoted from Pimp77:Mine has always worked perfectly.
It was some of the early deliveries that did not have a capacitor. Like I said, they fixed it a long time ago before the majority of WOZ were made.
Quoted from Farmboss:My monkey will not drop the ball. It picks it up and then takes it to the top but then nothing. It goes into ball search and finally drops it. I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue.
There is a switch at the top of the monkey path. Adjust that to be more sensitive.
Quoted from FlippyD:My WoZ was delivered today and it's mostly in perfect condition. One glaring issue though is with the monkey. When he goes down to pickup a ball the mech slides along two grooves in the wood and makes a loud and horrible screeching noise. If I put a little weight on the monkey bracket the noise doesn't happen. I'm guessing I'll either have to adjust the monkey somehow or maybe the wood needs to be sanded a little bit to make more space. Any thoughts?
A mild amount of lithium grease on the threads of the monkey mechanism usually solves the grinding noise.
Quoted from Vyzer2:My monkey goes down and sits on top of the ball, it won't go back up unless I hit the flippers. Any ideas?
Likely the switch at the bottom of the monkey track is not sensitive enough. Check it in switch test.
Quoted from tp:I'm in!! Nib standard 836/1000...invisiglass and shaker. She's a beauty. What mods are a must?
Get the Mezelmods firepots.
Doesn't the throne room mystery award occasionally award an extra ball?
Some other extra balls available are: 10 yellow brick road shots, 50 yellow brick road shots, two successful HOAD collects, getting the 10th fireball frenzy shot, and I set Special to extra ball but Special does not come up much.
Quoted from Eskaybee:Hey guys, been awhile since i posted in this thread. Weird story with my WOZ. So a good friend bought it from me about a month ago. He sent me a check, but continued to cancel on me each time we setup a delivery + setup day. I told him im going to buy another game with the $ and he said no problem. Then an emergency popped up and he sends me a message asking if i'd just hold onto the WOZ for awhile (undisclosed amount of time), and he said he has no problems with me playing it in that time - he knows how nice i keep my machines. So no problem win win for me for the most part. Ive known him for 30+ years so we're close and cool with each other so im not too concerned with holding it. I havent played it and it has sat untouched for about a month, but he still wants me to hang onto it; so i said F* it, im powering this sucker up and playing. Holy hell, such a cool game! What a blast!
But, my reason for posting is to ask, does anyone know if you can change the music around like you can with Stern's? I have some ideas for some WOZ-like mixes to do with the music. I did some cool stuff for TWD, Mustang, GOT, + STLE; but want to try some things with WOZ.
They set up the software so nobody is likely to hack it to change music.
Quoted from FlippyD:Yeah I just noticed that after I posted!
I have the topper bracket installed but there doesn't seem to be any wiring or lights anywhere. The broken topper they sent me also didn't come with any wiring or LEDs. I've contact JJP already for a replacement so I'll ask them what's up.
The LED strip should probably be in the bracket, and the wire connects down at the bottom left in the back of the cabinet with a molex connector if I remember correctly.
Quoted from FlippyD:OK I'll have to get on a step ladder or lower the head to get a closer look. Since the topper wasn't shipped with the game I'm wondering if they may have missed some other parts to it. There's definitely no light leaking out of it and I slid the broken half of the topper into position and it did not light up.
It would be lighting up your ceiling if it was on. Like you said, get up there and see if the strip is in the bracket. If it is then trace the wire up there down to the inside of the cabinet to see if it is connected. If it is not there at all then ask JJP for a topper light assembly.
Quoted from FlippyD:I don't see a topper brightness setting anywhere in any of the settings. Perhaps it doesn't show up if the game doesn't sense the topper lights are plugged in... Will inspect it all later today and see what's up.
See Nokoro's post above. The top part of the topper bracket needs to be removed to see the lighting.
Edited incorrect info.
Quoted from bobukcat:Game Settings - General - Topper Brightness
Thanks. I did not know that was there not that I will ever use it.
Quoted from GotAQuestion:I still have to re-attach my right ruby flipper. I tried 3M Extreme Double-sided Tape. Was pathetic. I let it set for a few hours and it lasted about 5 games. I'm thinking something more permanent is the way to go but I'm worried about changing bands down the line. I could change the bands now and then glue the tops on but I only have 600 games. Feels early. But then again it's like $4.
Use gel superglue for the ruby red slippers. You should be be able to get rubber or Titans over the flippers no problem. I was able to put Superbands on but that is always a matter of brute force.
Quoted from DeathHimself:Has anyone's winkie drop target just seem to stop coming back up? In the test settings it works both up and down but in game play it just don't come up. Nothing in settings were changed or disabled.
Check the microswitch at the bottom of the target to see if it is coming loose. A lot of people initially had the screws come loose.
Quoted from DeathHimself:Awesome, you hit the nail on the head. Thanks
Now for issue number two lol: The spring from the spinning house that pulls the legs back in popped off, found a washer, spring and e-clip. Any idea on how to open the house and to set the spring back in?
I don't know for sure but would not be surprised if you have to take the house off of the mini-playfield to fix that. LTG likely would be able to lead you on that repair.
I have taken the house off before to put on plastic protectors but I don't remember enough to help for your situation.
Quoted from pinballinreno:The manual shows the complete break down of the house and the part numbers in case you break something.
Its snapped together in pieces with decals applied.
Can the house be taken apart from the top of the playfield?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Probably, but I would pull the whole PF as a precaution the first time I did it. That way I could be more careful.
The plastic is pretty delicate.
I thought the house was made of metal?
Quoted from Nokoro:I'm confused. Are we expecting a new mode called reverse ball play that is different from reverse flippers?
Any new mode at this point would just be icing on this already terrific cake of code.
Falconpunch corrected it and said "Reserve" rather than reverse. I don't know anything, but my guess would be a ball is held somewhere when in multiball and is given out to extend a multiball.
Quoted from Radius118:War of the Winkies!!!
Real fire. 
Quoted from netcivil:I was told by a JJP dealer this morning that "The new machines (built in the last 2 months) now employ an entirely new system that is on par with the hobbit and dialed in. They are no longer daisy chained together, they are independent.".
I know nothing more or less than that.
Wow if true. I wonder how much they would charge to change the whole thing out.
Quoted from Radius118:I seem to remember someone saying that JJP was backordered on munchkin mini playfields.
I called JJP to order some parts and it turns out they have all 3 of the playfields in stock. The mini's are $150 each and the main is $700.
That being said, I also found a source for NOS playfields for $300 each. The playfields were purchased directly from Jack at a show back in March of 2013.
So from what I have learned so far about WoZ playfields, they are almost certainly Bader playfields. I personally don't think this is a bad thing, but I suspect some people may be scared of a Bader playfield even though the failure rate is actually pretty low. Not a big deal to me as I am going to clear it anyways.
The person that has these is a well known pinsider but I don't want to publicly publish his name in this post. If anyone is interested in obtaining one of these $300 playfields PM me and I will let you know who to contact.
The playfields they were selling for $300 were not fit to be used in a game. I believe there were defects or substandard clearcoat.
Quoted from BlueIrocGuy:I recently joined the club by picking up a used standard Woz. While still figuring out the quirks and different features of this game I have a couple of questions I hope can be answered here...
1) In regards to the rca plug on the back of the pin, is this just for a going to a stereo amp or can it be run to a powered sub as well?
2) I found this piece in the bottom of the cabinet and I'm not sure where it belongs.
Thanks!
That cylinder is for one of the GI light boards in the game. The light board under the playfield sends the light through the cylinder to above the playfield. It could have fallen out of the playfield or it could be an extra that was dropped by a worker when assembling the game (less likely).
In the picture the LED on the light board is actually not in the proper position aligned beneath the tube.
Quoted from netcivil:anyone else have the issue where the machine doesn't detect balls locked under Munchkin land, and when it does a ball find it doesn't lift the lock to release the balls?
I've had it happen a few times during play, and recently even powering the machine off and on doesn't release the balls. I've had to open the machine up and left the lever by hand.
See post #5:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/munchkin-house-ball-search-issue
Quoted from redacted:I wonder if there's something wrong with my WOZ. I've had it for 18 months and it's been played plenty, but nobody has ever been able to lob a ball to hit the edge of the Munchkin Land playfield.
It bounces off the Glinda target or ramp edge and hits the edge of the munchkin playfield.
Quoted from paynemic:Earlier in the thread I read someone protected the mini munchkin playfield with something other than the Cliffy. I'm a big fan of cliffys, but the difficulty to install on this one has me shying away. I don't like drilling playfields at all. Anyone have any thoughts?
You could probably do ok with drop dead foam but it would be uglier than the cliffy.
Actually 1000 ECLEs and however many early Standards were made with direct print plus early prototypes.
Quoted from Schabs81:So I would like to know how the flipper holds shut off pops? Is this a timing thing I'm doing wrong cause never seemed to work for me. Is it a settings thing I need to change?
In default code, if a haunted forest mode is lit to be started then you hold both flipper buttons and the pops will not fire. In the settings you can set it to allow the pops to be stopped any time you hold both flipper buttons which is what I like because it improves flow when you want it and gives the player more interaction with the game.
If all of the lights are locking on from W6 on then I would guess either W6 has a problem since it is the first light board or the connectors on that board need to be re-seated. W6 is the first light board in the series of lights.
Quoted from thunder001:Only a section of them are not all the led's. I'm confused people are telling me they should be and other people are stating they aren't all RGB changing. If they are suppose to be all RGB what would the cause be for them not changing?
They are all RGB. The first yellow brick road inserts before the yellow brick #1 insert are painted over so the color of the light appears slightly different.
In test, switch between the all red, all green and all blue and you will be able to see which inserts have a color that is not working properly.
Quoted from BlueIrocGuy:My thoughts as well, but visual check of all fuses looks good, so I need to figure out which one this circuit uses to test it further. I'll have to get some free time again to look at the schematics and figure out where it goes...
F713
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-some-lights-out-fuse#post-3704753
Quoted from thunder001:Can someone tell me how to check to see if the lighting on the throne room is working properly. I ran the led test for all GI lights and it never lights up. Is that the right place to check the throne room lighting on the plastic OZ insert? I noticed last night while playing it never lit up green. Going through the tests I couldn't find the throne room in the list.
Is it lighting when you turn on the game? If not then check the connectors, and then contact JJP about getting a replacement.
Quoted from rubberducks:Developed a few issues with my WOZ after a recent move. Looking for a bit of guidance as to what might be the underlying issues. Engineer is visiting tomorrow. Machine was treated extremely gently in the move, and cab still looks perfect. Only thing was that when I came to switch it on the first time, BIOS boot screen came up saying there'd been an unexpected shutdown (I don't remember it). Hasn't happened again though.
- Winged Monkey monorail does not work - including at system boot.
- Added LED kits are dead - illuminated state fair balloon, haunted forest eyes, under pf kit.
- Spotlights all dead.
- Topper illumination no longer works.
- Throne room picture of wizard no longer illuminates.
- Throne room torches no longer illuminate.
- Witch no longer raises or lowers, nor do her well mounted LEDs work. Target still works normally, but her hurry up no longer ticks down and stays at maximum value, but can be awarded. Fireball Frenzy jackpots no longer work.
- No toy tests save for the castle doors work.
- No coil tests work.
- However all mechs and coils work normally in normal gameplay except for the winged monkey's monorail and the witch.
Game behaves perfectly otherwise.
I'm hoping it's a fuse issue, but seems like remarkably disparate things. The only one that I'd experienced before was when I first got it, a single time the toy and coil tests didn't work, but then rebooted it and all fine.
Oh, and another thing is that slings are double, triple or quadruple (or more) firing sometimes, so had to turn the pulse timing down to prevent coil burn out. But that occurred before the move. Assume the switches need adjusting and it's completely unrelated to the other stuff.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Check fuse F714
Quoted from TomT:Looks like my Wizard stand up led board is out is there any way to test it other than the all led test? I can see that the leds on the board are barely glowing but thats it.
It is just a LED strip, not a board. You may just need to check the connector.
I believe the test is under flasher tests.
You can get something like this and make your own cheap:
ebay.com link: 5M SMD 3528 5050 5630 3014 300LEDs RGB White LED Strip Light 12V Power Supply US
Quoted from mountaingamer:I remember seeing a mod or tweak to the haunted sign a while ago, where it somehow gets rotated to the right slightly, so it's more visible to the players perspective - anyone know how it's done or have any pics?
I believe you can loosen the mount and rotate it a bit and retighten it.
Quoted from Gorgar123:Just got a RR and am having the same issue with the throne room led being out. I went through all the test menus 3 or 4 times and could not find it and I figured I was just missing it and it was buried somewhere. Was about to take the throne out/apart and check the solder connections and/or see if I could get another strip to work there, but after reading this I am realizing it is 12 volts and the strips I have are 6 volts so I guess I will just do the voltage test and then order a new strip if needed. Is the power always on to that connector or do I need to put it in some kind of all led test when I check?
Also, my top left forest pop bumper is not firing, even in the coil test. Any known issues with that one I should look for?
Other than these two minor issues, everything else seems to work perfectly and I am loving the game.
For the pop bumper make sure it is not rubbing on the playfield support under the playfield. Some people have had that happen. You may need to shift/jockey the playfield a fraction to the right. For the green throne room LED strip I believe you can test it in flasher tests.
Quoted from delt31:so just rejoined the club. Missed the game. Bounced around a number of classics and this game is really special. Still nothing like it IMO. It is the twilight zone of the new gen. Tech, shots, music - it has it all.
Advice to make the middle of the playfield brighter? I installed spotlights on my previous IJ and it made a huge diff. Problem is I don't know if you can alligator clip into these boards.
Has anyone mad the middle of the game brighter?
Just add a couple of spotlights, one on the left near the crystal ball and one near the throne room. You can get 12 volts from the other spotlights.
Quoted from delt31:OK - would these work though?
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1542
If not, can you link me to ones that will?
Yes, the spotlights would work. Just remember to use 12 volt LEDs. These worked well for me:
Quoted from DeathHimself:Did you go with the natural or sunlight version.
I am fairly sure it was natural. I am not really sure what sunlight LEDs would look like.
Quoted from delt31:Thanks. How did you connect them though b/c in the past i've used alligator clips. I don't think you can do that with WOZ. I would like to add a few LED strips to the game but again - not what I connect them too.
I used molex splitters I made. You could use splices if you do not have the tools and parts to do molex.
https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Splice-Connector-22-18-Gauge/dp/B003L9G6FU
In this picture the black wire represents the existing WOZ spotlight wire fed through the splice (which makes a small cut in the insulation for contact) and the red would be a wire from the new spotlight. You would need one for each of the two wires.
th (2) (resized).jpg
Quoted from delt31:Tips for hitting the "Collect" shot associated with the horses? I know you prob need to hold right flipper so you can shoot the ball in from left flipper but just can't do it. Am I missing something?
Shoot it from from the left flipper firmly and drop the right flipper just as the ball is in the right spot so the dropping flipper will usher the ball into the shooter lane. It takes a bit of practice but it works.
Though, I question the risk/reward value in the shot.
Quoted from mountaingamer:That WOZECLE was 4 years ago..... man time flys
For many of us it was 3 years ago. I like to not dwell on the waiting that was done and concentrate on the fun that was gained. Lessons learned though.
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:I've had my RR for a couple months now but just recently started having this issue. Capture Dorothy is not lit yet however magnet captures ball when I hit right orbit and monkey does not drop down to capture it obviously. Ball just stays stuck on magnet.
If it is a slow shot around the orbit it could be magnetized balls. Are you using the factory balls?
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:Speaking of shiny pinballs, mine get scratched and scuffed in WOZ about 4x as fast as any other game I have on route. Any idea what's going on here? I can't find a definite metal on metal culprit, by the shooter ramp, apron hooks, pops, and magnets are the main exposed areas I've adjusted so far. Magnets specifically have me suspicious...
Make sure you have a rubber ring on the post next to the witch. I have seen several people missing that rubber.
Quoted from Nokoro:That magnet is way too low. You need to raise it. It also looks like there is some wear at the edge from not being flush with the playfield. Perhaps a cliffy will help prevent further wear.
Agreed, the magnet is definitely too low. The ball would just sit in that hole from gravity. The magnet core needs to be adjusted to be level with the playfield.
Quoted from mountaingamer:I think I’m gonna give Britemods a try for woz... I did a diy red transparent flipper button mod on MMr and bought red 1 smd flexible red leds thinking red led’s wouldn’t show/ bleed through as much on the side of the apron, but the red leds don’t light up the red buttons as bright as I would want. Has anyone made or designed a cool guard to hide the light bleed through?
https://www.shapeways.com/product/3ASMJM974/flipperlightblocker?optionId=42514408
Quoted from KingBW:Do you just cut those down to fit your particular machine?
I don't know. I would have thought they work with any game that you put lighted flipper buttons in. I doubt it would be difficult to cut them with kitchen scissors if they are too big.
Maybe PM Wolfmarsh.
I also suspect there is probably something available at the hardware store that has a 90 degree bend that would work after cutting a little. I personally have been using one side of a piece of velcro for my games. Velcro is not perfect but does significantly reduce the light bleed.
Quoted from WyseGuy:Has anyone had their game register a Haunted Skill shot as the ball enters the shoot lane to start a game?
Likely your skill shot stand target is too sensitive and needs to be gapped.
Quoted from LTG:Yes. The kits will be available soon. I need to be prepared if anyone needs help. Butch Peel has done a good job with instructions. So I don't think there will be many calls.
LTG : )
Does it still require drilling the playfield?
Quoted from GrimDog:Looking for price help. What would be a fair price on a ECLE w less than 200 plays and 7.5 rev 1.1 light boards with these mods
castle walls, Toto, tornado, pdi target decals, and the emerald city mod
?
Probably in the $7500 to 8500 ballpark. Make sure it is an actual ECLE (# of 1000 on the wood apron) and not one of the green editions automated services was calling an emerald city edition.
Quoted from LTG:They may have another idea or two to check. I'd measure power to the motor, see if it reverses or not. Then you know the potential of bad motor or bad board it plugs onto.
I'd reseat the motor wires to the board it plugs onto. And be sure the threaded rod has clean, fresh lube on it.
LTG : )
Check to see in switch test if the the top and bottom monkey position switches are in the correct statuses.
Quoted from TaylorVA:What is the fuse value for the upper playfield Flippers? Mine is blown and can’t remember the value nor do I have the manual in front of me. TIA
F708 is 5A time delay
Quoted from GrimDog:In my case it would be a ECLE(5v boards) vs a DI LE
What is the price difference and conditions of the two?
Quoted from GrimDog:Both are minty HUO. The ELCE has a ton of mods (mirror blades, castle walls, witch mod, tornado, toto, etc) and is $700 cheaper
The 5V ECLE HUO is probably worth about $7000 to $7500. The DILE HUO is probably worth about $8000 to $8500. A DILE NIB can be had for about $8500 shipped.
Quoted from GrimDog:Picked up my WOZ today. Snowed in all weekend so it’s time to practice
Congrats. Makes sure the outlane posts are narrowed to give your family the best chance to extend ball times to get some immersion in the gameplay.
Quoted from GrimDog:Well, game lasted 3 days till the light boards died. 3/4 if the play field is a strobe light mess now. Gamble on old game failed
You need to figure out where in the series the last lights are working. I remember in the early games a lot of people were losing a board such as 15 when they had about 3/4ths of their lights going out:
Quoted from GrimDog:Yes, I just saw that. 30 is the last fully functional light.
It does appear in your video that the winged monkey inserts are flickering which would indicate to me that the problem is likely there or before. I could not see if the GI in the OZ lanes (5 and 7) were working.
Quoted from hocuslocus:one thing I've noticed that has never worked properly was trying to disable the tree bumpers.
when you hold the flippers down it's supposed to disable them right?
seems like maybe one out of 10 times it works, maybe.
is it anytime when you do it, or do you have to roll over a certain switch first?
There are settings in the menu. One setting allows you to disable the tree bumpers at any time by holding the flipper buttons and one setting allows you to do it only when the Haunted mode insert is lit to start a mode.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Almost to 1m before new years. When I get things stacked nice, I always think my score will be huge. When I miss my shits though, doesnt matter that i have stacks going. This is my best so far.
Question: What is the best stack you can make for the most points? Right now I get a lot of ECMB/MELT WITCH combined with a 2x crystal ball multiplier. Sprinkle in a munchkin mode as well, and some times escape. Still...not getting the TRIPLE jackpot enough to make it all count.
I think my highest after ball bonus was around 170k. Not bad.
Try getting a munchkin and haunted forest mode going then stack emerald city, rescue, and crystal ball multiballs. Later in the game you can stack haunted forest multiball.
Quoted from Skyemont:Ok now I'm getting pissed. The coil was fried that goes with the drop target. So I replaced it and it still fires. Then i ordered a new transistor that controls the coil and it still fires and locks when the game is on. NOW WHAT?
Could you have reversed the wires on the coil?
Quoted from LTG:Coil shouldn't have a diode, diode is on the I/O board ( I left you a message ) so diode on the I/O board could be bad.
LTG : )
His coil is showing a diode so there is one problem.
Quoted from bigd1979:Well then i guess i have no issue lol.... ugh sld of noticed that but i haven't slept in and spent all day picking this thing up.... thanks ltg. What's the reason behind the yellow inserts?
The first 6 are purely decorative. I am not sure why they decided to put lights/inserts under those. They could have merely been art on the wood. I guess it was an art choice in that they decided they wanted the lights to be in a spiral pattern the same as the art (like the beginning of the yellow brick road in the movie starts in a spiral). The #1 insert is the first yellow brick road insert for identifying how many of the shots you have made.
Quoted from bigd1979:Awesome thanks for the info. Guessing the yellow brick road is dimly lit and get brighter as u progress?
I believe it just resets after ten made. You get an award of an extra ball at the throne room for making ten and again for 50. Plus, 50 made gives a jewel needed as part of getting to somewhere over the rainbow.
Quoted from bigd1979:Anything required?
I believe I just extended the wires to the normal Bally/Williams location. It has been a few years since I did it.
Quoted from chalkup8:Could someone please direct me to where I can get some 12 volt led's for the spot lights on Woz.
Is there a super bright wide angle available or something similar?
Thanks.
Try the Optix Maximus:
Quoted from RTS:It would sure be nice if they could just sell it for $800 without the threat of an increase. It's not like they are offering a lower price because they need to clear them out.
This is an item that ECLE owners wish was never needed, and nobody 'wants' to spend the cash just to make their games work like they should have.
Also, it would be nice if a discount could be provided if the old boards are returned.
Quoted from billsfanmd:My game was resetting and rebooting. Great customer service....Im 95% sure its fixed. No resets in about 20 games or an hour in attract mode...I paid about 350 for a new ps board but they gave me credit back for half when I return my old ps board. Plus an improved small lcd board was $9. SO for less then $200 I was able to solve my isse and have 2 newer boards. No complaints here.
We are talking about the $800 2.0 light board kit, not the PC boards.
Quoted from whitey:Sorry for sideways photo
EDIT: if the scarecrow rollover is lit then if the GI under the house is not lit you likely have a problem between the scarecrow rollover and the GI boards under the house (GI board 1 and 2). It is hard to see in the picture if the GI under the house is lit.
Quoted from chalkup8:If I get the 10 Yellow brick roads,extra ball is lit at the throne room.Why don't I get the EB when making the shot?
I'm looking at the settings for adjustments ,but not seeing it.
Thanks Matt.
If you have the software set to defer extra balls to be played at the end of the game then the shoot again light does not light.
See if the extra ball is showing on the screen in the balls remaining graphic.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Go into switch tests and check the switch with a ball, not your finger.
It may just be a little loose.
I believe it is an opto.
Quoted from merccat:Great point. But I think the extra ball animation and callout should still play right?
Yes, unless you have the extra balls turned off in one of the settings.
Quoted from moonduckie78:I saw a WOZ75 once that looked like it had a thick layer of lucite or acrylic sitting on top of the cabinet decals.
Is THAT what RadCals are? They were very sharp!
Sounds like Radcals.
Quoted from hocuslocus:does anyone have any tips on how the to get this damn mega jackpot, I've done rescue like a zillion times and only been able to achieve it legitimately one time (starting to think I just got really, really lucky)
I usually try holding on to 2 multiballs before entering rescue and play them consecutively to extend rescue. Other then that and practice I'm not sure what else I could try.
It's probably the hardest diamond to achieve BY FAR! Seems like all the other diamonds are a cake walk now comparatively speaking. I was able to collect 6 at the most on 3 ball default play, and obviously the most elusive was that damn rescue mega jackpot, Think I needed like another 10 ybr as well. DAMN you WOZ one of these days!!!
I believe it is hit all 6 main playfield shots 3 times, then hit the 6 targets on the witch castle playfield to spell RESCUE, and then hit the search loop and one-time that ball into the scoop. I think I have only done it once but I have been coming close fairly often recently now that I got some confidence and understanding with it.
Quoted from Skyemont:Has anyone had issues with this board? WOZLED6
That was the one that went bad on me when my game was fairly new. The replacement has been solid.
Quoted from Soulrider911:Hey guys, so I have a question for ya'll. I'm about to order a WOZ. But, I'm thinking of getting a standard, and powder coating all the trim green (LIke the ECLE) as I personally love the green, but want 2.0 system.
Other than some visual nick nacks (castle doors, toto, tornado etc..) is there any real difference between the RR and standard? thanks
Headphone jack?
Quoted from Beez:Yeah, I hear he’s a little behind with the protectors. Good for him and his business though!
Thinking I’ll grab either a foam strip or rubber strip with adhesive on the back to add to that area temporarily from Lowe’s - Should work good right?
Some foam weather stripping will be a safe temporary protector so you can play your game while you wait for a Cliffy. The top edge is the most important area that needs protection because that area causes the top clearcoat and paint to start cracking off when the edge is hit by the ball.
Quoted from boomgopinball:You would think so. It's odd. It's basically treating #29 as if it were #1. Not a lot I can mess up. It's the first light in the series from the I/o now since I took woz6 out.
Could be one more silly issue. Not the end of the world. Really issue is deciding if woz6 is a bust or I can fix it.
Trying to narrow down any other issues so I can solve it.
Maybe something is screwly with #1 connection. But again, if you take woz6 out and disable it #29 should be the next one. I'll keep looking.
You likely need to turn off 176, 178, and 179 in the settings while you have W6 disconnected/bypassed since those lights are tapped off of W6. That could be why it is treating 29 as if it were 1.
Capture9 (resized).JPG
Quoted from boomgopinball:Yes. Took the green data cable from 6 and out it in 29. Also took out 5. That green data is now on 28. Both off in settings.
I assume you meant W5 instead of 5? If it is W5 you bypassed then you likely need to turn off 159 and 160 along with W5 in the settings.
Quoted from boomgopinball:Thanks. I thought that too but couldn't find where to turn those off. Those satellite boards aren't listed in the settings. Just the main ones. I'll look again but could someone chime in if I'm wrong where to turn it off.
####
Looked again. Is there another menu? Only lists main boards and gi ones.
Interesting. It does appear that the boards that are tapped off as dead-ends are meant to be included with the parent boards when turning off the parent boards such as W6 in the settings. Assuming you did the bypass with the wiring harnesses correctly, I wonder if there is a software bug when bypassing the boards that have the dead-end boards tapping off.
I would try, with the game off, make sure the connectors are securely fastened on the Lion rollover board 27 and the W3 board.
If that does not fix the problem then bypass the W3 board and remove that board in the settings to see if the rainbow board (W10) is working.
My best guess is you have a bad W3 board.
Quoted from Soulrider911:OK, found the culprit, the data connector going from 56 to 26, on the green end, the ground wire had backed itself out. shoved it back in and hot glued it until i can order a replacement. Speaking of replacement where do i order one? I Could not find it on the part page.
Also, my WOZ head led seems to be out... this common, and should i order another from JJP? or can i use a 12 one I have from comet? Thanks
The Wizard head is just a 12 volt green strip so you could use another source other than JJP. I made my own from a green reel I had from amazon.
indypinhead was making the lighted winkie drop targets
Quoted from adol75:I found a way to keep the rescue multiball going without having multi balls on the playfield, but I don't know if it goes in the cheating category or not. I would think not, since it's totally in game. Basically if you shoot two balls in a row to the castle VUK, the first one will go up while the second stays stuck on the drop target. As long as you don't hit the target the ball stays there while still in multiball.
A non-cheat way to win rescue multi-ball is to trap one ball on the left flipper. That is what I did to finally win it. Similar to LOTR's ROTK and FOTR multiballs, they seem to get easier with practice.
Quoted from Soulrider911:So I was just checking to see if my ECLE had Mylar and it does, but not in the pop bumpers and not in the state fair pop area. Is this something I can order from JJP? I thought someone posted previously about this?
They were providing the precision cut mylar for free a couple years ago.
Quoted from Soulrider911:that is really odd? But drop targets typically are either up or down... The mechanics are made to have a "half way" state. Which makes me think this is coincidence, id check the meck from under the playfield and make 100% sure there is no binding, its moving freely, and that the entire meck itself is positioned so that the drop target is not pressing on the playfield hole it sits within. my 2 cents
You mean they are "not" made to have a half-way state. I would check to see if the target is rubbing the edge of the playfield. The whole mech can be carefully bent a little to adjust.
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:Found my broken piece.....any way to repair this? I assume Im going to need to order the black piece from JJP vs a quick fix.
We have a party for my sons basketball team next Saturday so I’ve got a little time to get it delivered.
Was just curious if it worth attempting to repair. [quoted image]
Possibly this but not sure if it is the same measurements (says 3-3/8" in the actionpinball link):
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:Thanks LTG and DCFAN!
My plan is to try the repair tomorrow while also ordering a replacement as I’m sure the repair will be short lived but worth a try.
I hope you get the right part if you order one. There seems to be about four different versions for Williams/Bally games.
Quoted from adol75:So you put back the right one to normal. Interesting I did the exact opposite. I find the right outlane to be unfair, I lose a lot of balls on it after hitting the witch or the right bumper.
Balls shooting out of the pops and straight out the right outlane is probably the cheapest way to lose a ball in WOZ. I recommend setting the pops in the settings to allow the player to press both flipper buttons to stop them when desired, not just when haunted modes are lit. It gives the user more control and puts some skill into when to have the pops be a factor in the game.
Quoted from adol75:Has anyone installed that mod ? It's a throne room lcd screen that does look really cool. My problem is the pictures make it look like the frame is obstructing the view of the right flipper, which might be annoying to play. I'm wondering if it's just the picture of if it is annoying.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1166-pixels-arcade-games/02108-woz-wizard-of-oz-wizard-28-inch-lcd-mod
With that mod I am guessing you no longer can look at the throne room light (flashing) to know when an award is ready to collect.
Quoted from 1quartershort:All/LTG
Anyone know the voltage for the throne room led strip?
If so, anyone try to replace it with a strip from say Comet.
Physically about the same size, Comet leds may be too bright but willing to experiment if I can get the voltage.
Would order from JJP but frankly they do not last (on my second in two years with very modest play) and the shipping is absurdly high.
Thanks,
12 volts. If you are a little handy you can buy a 25 foot green LED strip from amazon or ebay for about $13 and make your own replacement.
Quoted from KingBW:But ... it doesn't have the wood apron. So is it one of those special green editions that is not an LE?
It appears to be the Automated Services Emerald edition (green trim), different from the ECLE. Anyone can buy the green trim separately anyway.
Quoted from Wildbill327:True anyone can buy the trim, but add the shaker and glass and it seems to be a good package. Red green silver what ever floats your boat but they all play the same.
Yes, it is a great game regardless of version as they all have the same playfield mechs.
Quoted from Wanderers:Having just purchased a WOZ and thoroughly enjoying it might I add. I have encountered a few minor issues of
which I have overcome and delt with myself. I now find one of the major LED circuit boards gone, ahh. Having tried emailing and phoning JJP direct on numerous occasions to see if there’s any compensation on this, as the games had very little use.
I am finding this an impossible task every extension goes straight to answer machine, and not one email iv sent had had a response over this issue. Either they are extremely busy selling pinball machines or they can’t be bothered dealing with me. Has anyone elts experienced this???
How old is the game? The amount of use is usually not relevant to a warranty or replacement parts. Sometimes JJP will charge less for boards if you return the old one.
Right now they are having a snow storm it appears so it might be a next week before you can get assistance:
https://weather.com/weather/5day/l/USNJ0250
Quoted from Gotfrogs:There is something up with that switch behind the house for sure. It functions when I press it but looks to be deformed (pressed up against the cut out in the play field). I will work on it tonight. So if it does not trigger you can not use the munchkin flipper?
[quoted image]
Probably something like a wire pulled off the switch for that red lit switch. I doubt that is why the flipper is not working though. See Pinballinreno's post for that problem.
Quoted from Gotfrogs:You know your stuff! It was missing on the coin mechanism. It is now back where it belongs.
I went to tackel installing my munchkin cliffy and noticed that the munchkin flipper is overheating and has melted the plastic cover. As I stated above, the game toggles the flipper at the start of each ball and at some times during game play but I am never able to trigger it with the game play buttons. Here is a video of what it does (note that I am unable to control the flipper during this entire video but it does changes position on its own at certain points).
I will open a ticket with JJP.
[quoted image][quoted image]
The flipper is stuck in the up position (likely always energized from the looks of your coil). It could be a shorted transistor or the flipper button switch is always closed.
Edit: I noticed on second look that the flipper went back down and then came back up again. I am not sure if you are pressing the flipper button to make that happen (need more info).
Quoted from PtownPin:I'm just curious how many monkeys have you sent out?
Wrong thread.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Back in the club!! A long time ago I had a WOZ standard which was sooo much nicer than my other games (players TAF and TZ) that I was intimidated by it. A few years have passed and I am super happy to be back in the club.
One issue I am having right now though is- the game is always spitting out 2 balls into the shooter lane. It is really weird, and makes the game virtually unplayable because as soon as i drain, the ball ends, yet the second ball comes rolling along a second or two later. It’s like the game doesn’t realise the second ball is there at all.
The trough optos seem to be working ok (though i am not sure how to test them beyond just tripping the light beam), and the shooter lane switch is working ok.
Sometimes I can leave the ball in the shooter lane for a while and nothing happens, but as soon as I plunge, a second ball is dropped into the shooter lane. So what gives? Connectors to the trough have been checked, switches / optos are ok in test.
Quite often when someone is having this problem it is the jam opto being flaky. Mine was like that when it arrived NIB.
Switch test may or may not show the problem.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Jam opto - I had not heard that term, I will look it up! Thanks a lot !
It is the opto on the trough board that is closest to the shooter lane. It senses whether a ball is sitting in the area of the trough chute that should be kicked out to clear it.
Just an example picture circled in red:
jamopto (resized).jpgThe butt end of the opto LEDs should be fairly tight against the board. If not then that sometimes results in a flaky light transmission/reception. Sometimes solder joints are cracked or not well soldered, and sometimes it is just a bad LED.
Quoted from f3honda4me:How many different Multiballs and how many different wizard modes does the game have?
It depends on whether you count modes like Haunted Forest Multiball and Munchkin Multiball as mini-wizard modes and whether you consider mini-wizard modes as wizard modes in general.
There are several multi-balls including, I believe, 5 different two-ball multiballs from the crystal ball.
Quoted from imagamejunky:So the magnet held the ball but released it before the monkey came down? I haven’t seen that one yet. I would check the magnet in test mode.
I would go into switch test and see if the monkey switches are working properly (the switch #1 at the bottom/right that indicates the monkey is at the magnet and the monkey home switch #1 on the left/top).
monkey (resized).JPG
Quoted from f3honda4me:The YBR is nothing but rumor so far. The only thing we do know for sure is that they will be doing another 75th version run. Which also makes me think that a "stripped down" version is also just unsubstantiated rumor. If they were removing features due to problems, they wouldn't do another 75th version run that still had all original mechanicals.
I read someone say that the monkey mech will be removed or changed in the yellow brick road version.
My guess, only a guess, is that the Yellow Brick version will be a trimmed down bill of materials lower priced version to compete with Stern Premium pricing.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:That would suck - that’s one of the most unique features! And despite me having issues with it this week I think it really adds to the game since it is directly related to setting up the rescue mode
I don't think there is really any point in a Yellow Brick edition unless it has a cheaper price dumbed down version since there are plenty of ruby, green and standards.
Quoted from pinball-freddy:The Wizard of OZ Convolux in green and red by Freddy's Pinball Paradise
4 pcs. Set of red fluorescent protector plastics for Wizard of Oz. For delivery please click on the last photo. Fits: Wizard of Oz, Wizard of Oz, 75th., Wizard of Oz, Emerald City
http://www.shop.freddys-pinball-paradise.de/index.php?f=3&q=convolux%206521
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Protectors really should extend a little beyond the regular plastics to avoid the regular plastics getting hit on the edges directly by the ball
Quoted from pinballinreno:mezel mods
Improved version:
https://mezelmods.com/collections/wizard-of-oz-pinball-mods/products/wizard-of-oz-pinball-illuminated-winkie-target?variant=705017705
PM indypinhead and see if he has any left:
Super Durable version, no sticker:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-product-lit-drop-target-for-woz
Does anybody know if these panned out to be good/durable/unbreakable?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/translucent-drop-targets-from-pinball-mods-vid-s-review
Quoted from capguntrooper:Is there a LINK to get the lube for the monkey? I wanna lube it too.
white lithium grease:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B004X70LZA/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc
Quoted from whitey:Woz club ? By my photo can you tell me if these boards should be replaced?or tell me what I have
This game has 200 plays built 2012-2013[quoted image][quoted image]
Likely the unbuffered version of the 7.5volt boards. I believe most of the games with buffered boards have the terminals of the coils soldered on rather than slide-on terminals.
Quoted from Nepi23:I lost yesterday half of my playfield's leds and GI.
Its a bit strange though:
- led 66 works (board 16)
- led 67 does not work (board 15)
- led 68 and onwards works (board W2 and onwards)
- led 65 and leds with a smaller number do not work (from board 17 backwards)
What do you think, which board should be replaced? Its strange, cause working board 16 is in the middle and on both sides of it is a non-working board.
Last time this happened, I think I replaced board 16, but it might have been the wrong board?
Is board 28 working? Is board W5 working? Find the first non-working board to narrow it down. It sounds from what you said the problem is either at 15 or before (such as 15, 28, W5, etc.)
Quoted from Nepi23:Thank you, I will have to investigate. I thought that I had found the culprit in board #17, but after I exchanged it, it worked ok only for a while and then the problems reappeared. It might be that there is a bad connection somewhere between the led-boards...
You said 15 is not working so the first problem board cannot be 17 because that comes after 15.
Quoted from Nepi23:I have to check from you guys that am I having a led-board problem, or is this something else?
Now all the lights lit and in the start everything is fine, have a look here:
But a bit later in the game, the problems emerge like this:
And how to start figuring out, where the problem is?
Thanks for any info!
It appears that at least some of W2 is working because TINMAN is lit and not flickering. I would try bypassing 15 first.
Quoted from Calfdemon:Need some suggestions to a problem I keep having that I am sure others have had as well. So I am now on the 2nd set of ruby slipper flippers since I bought the game NIB. A ball coming in hot broke my right slipper off of my first pair a couple of months after buying the machine. I glued that slipper back on to the flipper numerous times over about a year using many different types of glue, only to have it come flying off again during game play at some point. I noticed that hard drying glues such as super glue did not last nearly as long as some of the softer dying glues, but no matter what glue I used, it never lasted very long.
I just recently bought a new set of flippers from JJP and installed them since I was tired of the failing glue repair. Those were installed about 2 months ago now and the right slipper just broke in the exact same place on this new pair (right before the heel of the shoe). I wish it had been the left flipper as I had a good left flipper in my parts bin, but no... It had to be the right again. Anyway, I am guessing that these flipper caps break and buying a 3rd pair of flippers is pointless.
So does anyone have any experience using a glue to hold these slippers on the flipper that actually works long term?
Thanks in advance for any and all responses!!
Try gel superglue (what I was taught to use for pool stick tips), and also make sure your flipper rubber is not pushed down too much on the flipper bat face thus reducing the chance of airballs.
Quoted from avspin:Is the monkey magnet still there on the playfield?
It appears that the magnet is still there:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jersey-jack-s-pinball-machine-release-tx2019?gallery#g
7ce33383375e01bccb2b5d74f0d9b4672a08229d (resized).pngQuoted from harryhoudini:I actually talked to Frank when I ordered the GI boards. Shannan forwarded my request to him because she knew I had the 5v system in my SE and didn't know I had a RR with the 2.0 system so they were confused as to why I was ordering 2.0 GI boards. He didn't seem that concerned that I had to replace so many boards, but I'm happy to shoot him an email.
Just to be clear, I *just* got the RR so there were not really continuing issues, just these GI issues I discovered once I got the game. If the replacement boards solve the issue then it's $5 well spent on each.
Edit - Frank has been emailed the details.
Are you sure the LEDs are not simply different model numbers? The color of the white varies between different model numbers of the kingbrite leds.
Quoted from brooklynknight:Having a odd issue with the crystal ball VUK. If I set it at its default coil power it is way too strong and the ball flies out and drains every time. The pin is level and when I bring it to 13 there are times it makes it and others that it does not have enough strength to make it up the vuk, then I assume it compensates and shoots it out at a faster rate which drains it. If I set to 14 it is too much power. 13 works 75% of the time and 10% to 15% on the 2nd try it makes it, however there is that 10% to 15% that on the 2nd kick out it s power is too strong and it drains.
Is it time for a new coil? Any suggestions are appreciated.
Make sure the wireform is centered over the VUK.
Quoted from PanzerFreak:Having some odd behavior with the munchkin ball lock. Seems like balls won't release for multiball unless I press both flippers which causes them to release. Running version 6.61 code (need to update). Anyone else seen this?
If it is lifting ok when no balls are in the lock then I am betting it is the bending trick that is needed.
See post #3398 in this thread
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only?tq=bend&tu=
Quoted from Daditude:I have put on a few mods (sparkling emerald city, decals, witch and red smoke mod, black out edger for the wizard led) and still have a few more to add (back alley walls, plastic protectors, winkie drop target mod) pics below:
It seems like people enjoy game blades and pinstadium lighting the most, so I will look into those as well.
What game blades are the best looking??[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Get a cliffy protector for the edge of your munchkin playfield ASAP. In your picture the denting is very apparent and will start chipping.
Quoted from Daditude:Are you talking about this area pictured?[quoted image]
No. The area above the red lollipop/rainbow target next to the ramp.
See post #63 in the following thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cliffy-woz-protector-set/page/2
Quoted from delt31:So I'm joining the club very soon (ecle finally) and plan to buy that throne room mod. Does anyone know where on the light board the throne room plugs in?
Pics to come... Should have by EOD.
Thanks
I don’t think any mods connect to the light boards.
Quoted from adol75:I get a lot of air balls from my right flipper, I've tried lowering the power but it's either the air balls or the ball doesn't make it up the ramp/
Raise the rubber on the flipper bat so it is hitting higher on the ball.
Quoted from homegameroom:And this is in attract mode...[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Put it in test and set all lights to white to see if the white works for that insert.
Quoted from cscmtp:well boys sold my WOZLE today. it was the pin I'd had the longest in my collection. she's going to a good home and I plan on getting a JP Premium to replace her. Hope I don't regret that move!
At least it was not a pet cat friend. Oops, wrong thread. 
Quoted from adol75:The 2.0 system is far better than the previous versions, there is no discussion on that, what I'm discussing is the assumption that all of them will die, I do not believe that, I have not seen it happening and put led boards changing as a part of once in a while maintenance, in a very while in my case.
With my natural tendency to procrastinate, I actually find it beneficial that one failure impacts what's after in the chain, it forces me to change the board right away. I've stayed with a dead throne room led light for a month since I didn't miss it much, and got the pleasure to see a month later that it was perfectly working again.
The throne room green LED strip is not in the LED board chain.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:I do miss the space shuttle start sound from the old code....
Is it at the 2 second mark of this video?
https://vimeo.com/41899510
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