(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

5 years ago

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  • 9,535 posts
  • 520 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by SDpinballer
  • Topic is favorited by 234 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (5 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (3 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (8 months ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (8 months ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (7 months ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (7 months ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (6 months ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#140 5 years ago
Quoted from iceman44:

Wow, yep, I get the "spinning" part!
and that upper loop pops back on me too many times.

If you are referring to the Witch castle playfield loop, I remember there was a thread on the JJP WOZ group about how to fix that shot rejection problem at the top of the loop.

#142 5 years ago
Quoted from iceman44:

I'm going to go find that fix, those shot rejections are brutal and usually end up in drains and it's tough enough to drop that winkie over and over again. Rescue MB is a big scoring stack with ECMB

I just bumped that thread to the top for you in the Google group. It is called "Search loop rejects".

#144 5 years ago
Quoted from iceman44:

Just saw it, thanks, looks like easy fix, raising the height of the wire form at the back of the loop for those having the same problem. That will help big time!

I am sure fixing it on your game will make that playfield way more fun. I have seen people hitting it around that loop several times with no reject problems.

#159 5 years ago
Quoted from Leotis:

Can someone help direct me to the google group thread on adjusting the castle loop coil. Can't seem to access the appropriate group / thread...a link would be very helpful...

You have to e-mail Jen at JJP to get access to the group.

1 month later
#288 5 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

The countdown is on....distributor says these should ship end of summer....cant wait to get this in our office. Going to the office to work will be WAY less painful.

WOZ+Ruby+Flyer_v9C-page-0.jpg 171 KB

I am so sick of dates and estimates.

2 months later
#483 5 years ago
Quoted from herg:

I was able to find the answer to my own question, in the manual of all places!
Rev 1.3 boards are the original 7.5V ones, and Rev 1.4 boards include a buffer to drive the signals rather than relying on the outputs on the LED driver.
I had a few cases last night where the Crystal Ball VUK kicked the ball hard enough that it flew out of the habitrail and into the outlane. Finding that I could individually control the power of the VUK coil was another extremely pleasant surprise.

Then, what are those Rev 1.1 7.5V boards Mato pictured above?

3 weeks later
#509 5 years ago

For the Witch castle playfield, are most people moving the post in that is at the left side of castle playfield exit?

#513 5 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

It was just draining way too easily.. however, I will say this, now that I have had it for some time and I'm "better" at the game, I could probably live with it in its original location. YMMV

Quoted from DaveH:

Well I can't speak for most people, but I did. I very rarely do things like that, but I was going dozens of games without starting Rescue. It felt unfair to me, so I switched it to the other hole. Rescue is still tough, but that post gives you an extra chance or two to get it. Others may say its cheating, but moving that made it just right. If I ended up starting Rescue every game I would have moved it back. I like my games difficult, but fun.

That is exactly what I was thinking. I have not yet had a lot of time to master the nuances of playing the Witch castle playfield and think I should move the post in. It is easily the area of the playfield that I am struggling with the most. If it gets too easy then later I definitely will move it back.

#515 5 years ago
Quoted from DaveH:

I did mine without having to pull the castle playfield. Just pull out the main playfield and prop it on the rails. I used a screw driver and needle nose pliers. Just do it easy and slow, and yes, there is a washer between the nut and the bottom of the playfield (don't drop it). It only takes a couple of minutes.

Thanks. It looks really easy compared to removing both mini playfields which I already did to install the Cliffys and Borygard's full plastic protector set.

4 months later
#571 4 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

nobody? did i miss something some where else?

Look at post #11 in this thread:


The position of the switches can be moved a little (and thus changing the sensitivity) by sliding the bracket holding the switches.

#583 4 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

In the newest code did it revert back to Twister taking precedence over a lock?

Lock takes precedence in the code that came out around August (version 4.1).

2 weeks later
#647 4 years ago

I believe there is a gem and an extra ball awarded for 50 yellow brick road shots.

2 months later
#730 4 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Well thanks! Not quite yet...but hopefully.
One more question. Has any of you ever lost the key to their WOZ? Current owner misplaced the key. He was going to call JJP today to see if they would have a replacement key for it. My guess is that they wouldn't have that information on file and that drilling would be the only option? Anyone?
Oh and if drilling is required, is the coindoor lock the same as a Stern?

Is the game missing both keys or just the backbox key? The backbox key is hung just inside the coin door.

#735 4 years ago
Quoted from Rick432:

How strong is the castle miniplayfield flipper supposed to be?
Mine is kind of weak, but very playable. I had assumed it was supposed to be like that, but someone posted about their flipper coil stop needing to be tightened and loc-tited, to get that flipper strong and behaving like it should.
I just don't want to have to deal with removing the castle PF if there isn't anything wrong with that flipper being weakish.

Check the settings to see if you are below the default setting for that coil. I believe the settings that are the default light up green.

#770 4 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Does someone have a pic of which way the topper is supposed to go on a standard? I didn't put mine on. Bought it with it on. Looking at pics of other machines....mine may be backwards? Here's a pic of mine.


You do have the topper reversed unless they started etching them reversed. The etched side should be on the back.

2 weeks later
#815 4 years ago
Quoted from Blu:

As I have been looking into what my next pin will be, I've been reading quite a bit about WoZ, and I remember reading somewhere that folks were looking for the rules for WoZ. Not sure if someone has already posted it, but they have a rule sheet up at PAPA. http://papa.org/2015/05/18/wizard-of-oz-rulesheet/

Thanks for posting. What is the contact to give them feedback on things that are incomplete?

#827 4 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

when a ball gets locked behind the Winkie drop target should the drop target go down in ball search? Just had this happen and it never lowered the target.

The drop target should go down in ball search. I was doing some glass off checking of the Haunted rules (see other thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wizard-of-oz-rulesheet-2#post-2462369 ) and saw that the drop target does go down when ball search is cycling . There is a small second coil on the drop target mechanism that causes the target to drop.

#830 4 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

I was playing a game on WOZ the other night. The ball got stuck behind the drop target. The game went into ball search....the drop target never dropped. I had to shut the game off, remove the PF glass, and remove the ball myself.
I think JJP should do a software update that will make the drop target drop during ball searches.

Is your software from the last couple versions?
Also, you may want to go into coil test while the Winkie target is up and test the coil to see if it is working to make the target drop.

#832 4 years ago
Quoted from TZBen:

whats your strategy for shooting the behind the flipper shot for horse of a different color?

I usually do not do it on purpose. I don't see it as valuable enough to warrant the risk.

#834 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

It's EXTREMELY valuable if you did well on a munchkin mode that ball. WELL worth getting.

Are you saying the horse of a different color behind flipper shot factors into the end of ball bonus?

#839 4 years ago
Quoted from herg:

If I'm remembering correctly, there's actually a whole table full of possible multipliers based on your collection of horses. I want to say up to like 6x for 3 different non-rainbow horses, plus a cow. I still don't ever shoot at it on purpose. I'm playing for progression first, points second.
Edit: No, I was wrong, the multiplier I was thinking of was for the HOADC cashout score. Here's the rules for the Munchkin multiplier.

+ Munchkin Multiplier: Now, when successfully completing a HOADC level, you
are awarded a Munchkin Multiplier which affects any and all Munchkin modes
you played that ball. Winning a 4-horse level adds .5x; 5-horse 1x; 6-horse
1.5x; and 7-horse 2x. The maximum is 10x. Remember this is scored at end
of ball bonus now.

I am confused by the horse thing. I thought the bottom left of the screen only went up to 5 horses/cows. How do you get 6 or 7 horses?

#841 4 years ago
Quoted from herg:

After each successful HOADC collect, the next one increases the number of horses you have to collect.

I don't know what there is to be confused about.

Thanks, that clarifies it for me.
That is what I was confused about. I did not know the collect was how the number of horses increased.

1 month later
#877 4 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Anyone else have an issue with the lock playback showing the three characters locked in the balls? When my ball was over it would not let me re lock the characters to restart ECMB and the lock insert was frozen red. I posted on the JJP forum as well.image.jpg image.jpg

That sounds like a CPU error, or less likely a software glitch. I have never had that happen.
I assume if you hit the ramp shot the ball would not lock?

After reading your description in the WOZ group that the lock insert stayed red for another game that makes me think it could be a light board problem ( from memory I think that is W6), but typically the rest of the lights would also not be functioning if that was the case since W6 is first in the chain. I guess I then go back to the software or CPU error.

1 month later
#886 4 years ago
Quoted from herg:

I know I've seen new code mentioned before, but I honestly can't think of anything that I could ask for. The software is what makes WOZ great.

Fixing the ball saver to allow for settling into the trough is coming.

There is also something about the crystal ball being prompted to react quicker I believe.
Keith posted the preliminary code notes on the WOZ google group a few days ago.

2 months later
#955 4 years ago
Quoted from cscmtp:

Where is the best place to buy a rubber ring kit for Woz? I just had a rubber break at the very top of the playfield (right underneath where you have the rollovers to increase your bonus before the pop bumpers. Thought it was odd that the rubber was white when it looks like every other rubber in the game is black. Maybe the 1st owner had one break and changed it out with white?

I recommend Titan competition silicone, especially for that ring that takes a beating from the slingshot.


#964 4 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Does anyone know the adjustment option to keep the extra ball score minimum from rising?

According to the manual page B-22 there is a replay boost setting and there is a score award boost setting. You can turn those to off.

#967 4 years ago
Quoted from DaveH:

I liked the replay setting boosting for a replay, and set scoring levels for an extra ball. Just because I really liked the replay light show, but didn't want it every game.

To me if you are going to have an extra ball award it should be for a fixed score to give comparable results between each game you play. For when a replay is awarded I agree it does not matter when or if it gives it out since it does not affect your score.

#970 4 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Finally! image.jpeg

The game is always super fun when you get scores in the 1 million ballpark.

4 months later
#1198 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Where did you wire these spots into the game for power? I'm considering doing this. Doesn't Woz run on some sort of different voltage?

You can connect to the existing spotlights in WOZ, but you have to use 12 volt LEDs.

#1290 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

I have SO many wonderful things to say about this game from a game play and rules standpoint, but I'm still putting them together for my review.
Until then, I need someone to weigh in on this...I've felt the clear, and it's not chipped. It looks like a bubble UNDER the clear. Should I be worried?

There is a piece of mylar in front of the Throne room VUK.

#1296 3 years ago

For the throne room, get the Cliffy protector.

#1311 3 years ago

Check the connections at W6 and back at the controller.

#1315 3 years ago

Check your voltage level at the outlet where you have the game plugged in.

1 month later
#1460 3 years ago
Quoted from Vexx_182:

Can anyone PM me a list of instructions or a good video showing full steps on how to set up the usb stick etc to download the full new 6.06 software. I dont want to make any mistakes and have something go wrong with the install because i missed a simple step somewhere. Thanks for your time.



1 week later
#1491 3 years ago

The metal ball guide has an additional pre-drilled hole in the playfield. You need to move the ball guide to the outlane narrowing pre-drilled hole and then you can easily move the post with the rubber without any difficulty.

1 week later
#1518 3 years ago
Quoted from system11:

Now I look at the video frame by frame, it looks like it's actually rolling / bouncing out from inside of the rubber edge. Seems that when the motor jerks to a stop the ball moves to the left then releases, hits the wireform on the left of the captive area giving it enough momentum to bounce & roll up the foam. So I want the monkey to move slightly less far.

Make the switch that is triggered by the monkey at the top slightly more sensitive and see if that fixes it (to get it to drop the ball just a hair quicker).

EDITED: make more sensitive not less

#1527 3 years ago
Quoted from system11:

My celebration was in error - the monkey is still dropping the ball onto the playfield every time... It seems like it would be easy to improve in code, when the monkey stops, wait half a second and then drop the ball. I need a higher frame rate camera because testing this and getting a clear picture of what the problem still is, is hard.

It appears to be dropping the ball too late and thus the ball hits the metal bar and bounces back and over the rail.
Make the switch more sensitive and the ball will drop earlier. The switch is at the top of the diagonal monkey guide rails.

Another thing that could be tried is to put some drop dead foam on the rail where the ball is dropping, but that would be a last resort for me.

1 week later
#1568 3 years ago

Isn't Indypinhead working on a lighted drop target?

#1575 3 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

Yes, I have drop targets machined out of polycarbonate.

Can you sell them as an option without the light assembly? Most of us with WOZ already have a light installed.

#1579 3 years ago
Quoted from Manimal:

I hate it when my Monkey Balls drop.......lol

2 weeks later
#1657 3 years ago

Originally the games were shipping with the ruby bats. They were having a few reports of breaking so they replaced them with black.
I am guessing the plastic infused with sparkles caused them to be slightly weaker than a normal bat.

2 weeks later
#1738 3 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

So there's no more "might be joining" this club. My RRWOZ is being delivered tomorrow. I have a question about moving it. I'd like to be able to keep it in the box while moving it downstairs for protection. Is it ok to turn the machine onto it's side while moving it down the stairs? I would assume it's ok as long as the machine doesn't go upside down? From my research of the box size, it's 31x30x57.5 and that should be able to fit into my basement.

You only want to set it on the side that says "truck this side only" or the bottom/pallet side.

#1742 3 years ago

Make sure all the light board connectors are seated well. Sometimes in shipping connectors come loose.

#1745 3 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Where do the rainbow lights connect to the main board? I've checked the connectors at the light board and they're both plugged in however, the 2-wire plug that's under the "W" has a lot of pressure on it leaning against the ball guide. It's like the rainbow plastic and light board aren't screwed into the correct spot on the munchkin playfield. There's a lot of pressure being put on that plug.
Also just realized the left tree pop bumper doesn't work. I hear it making a noise in test mode though. Gonna check on that tomorrow.

The rainbow board is the last in the string. If you have other lights that are acting up then I doubt the Rainbow connectors are the problem.
See post 4 in this thread where I have made a cheat sheet to follow the LED board connections:

#1758 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Thanks guys. Drilling freaks me out. Heck, I don't even want to remove the mini-pf...

You do not have to pre-drill the screw holes. The screws will drive in the wood without hurting the playfield.

2 weeks later
#1827 3 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I'm installing my lit drop target and need to know if this is where I plug into. I believe it's the upper castle spotlight wire. Everything in my head points towards yes but I just want to make sure with the experts. Thanks.

From memory I believe the light blue and black wires go to the spotlights. The spots are what you want to tap off of for 12 volts lights so that should be correct.

It should not matter which spotlight connector is tapped into as long as you have enough length to mount the light where you want it.

1 month later
#1948 3 years ago

If you take out that metal guide screw that is near the red slippers image in the picture above there is an additional hole that allows the guide to be mounted in a more narrow position. It cannot be seen without taking out the screw.

#1955 3 years ago

You don't need to notch or cut the guide. On the left outlane both the post and the guide have pre-drilled second holes to make the outlane narrower.



ec478f37897636a00b7cba132cd875b17ba4052e (1) (resized).jpg

#1965 3 years ago

Wizards Mist and Shine:
amazon.com link »

You can use it often. It reduces static on the playfield and shines it up a little. For a more thorough but light cleaning I use Novus 1.

#1972 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

(Novus 1) That's what I typically use once a week on my pins for a quick cleaning. Btw, I'm picking up a WOZ standard tomorrow! So if all goes well, I'll be in the club this weekend.
I'm not much of a mod guy, but are there Any must have mods? I have Indys light up winky drop target on the way as well as lollipop decals for the rainbow targets. I was thinking about getting the castle walls + witch but looks like a pain to install so may wait a few weeks to make sure I'm gonna keep the game for awhile LOL.

The Mezel firepots mod is one of my favorites.

#1980 3 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

Where do I buy my mylar and what do you all use to cut it?

For WOZ, JJP has pre-cut mylar sets available.

#1988 3 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

uuuuuuuugh I can not wait to join this club when I get back state side.

Keep safe in the meantime. Thank you for your service.

#2108 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

I thought the 4 jewels in the center represent progression towards BTWW? Isn't there 8 jewels to collect for SOTR?
As for HOADC, it typically shows horses in bottom left corner, but are you saying it shows yet another different horse if you've successfully collected a set?

I believe it is 4 emeralds to get battle the witch, and 8 jewels to get to SOTR.

#2110 3 years ago


Wizard Mode: Somewhere Over The Rainbow
Collect all 8 Jewels to light SOTR at the ramp. The 8 jewels that must be collected are listed below and method of collection described in more detail above.
 Complete Wicked Witch Battle (liquidate the wicked witch)
 Master Fireball Frenzy (collect 10 jackpots)
 Start Munchkin Multiball (play all munchkin modes)
 Travel the Yellow Brick Road (advance 50 times)
 Complete Emerald City Multiball (collect 3 gifts)
 Start Flipper Frenzy (play all crystal ball modes)
 Complete Rescue Multiball (score a mega jackpot)
 Start Haunted Forest Multiball (play all haunted modes)
After starting SOTR at the ramp the ball will be stopped so you can be given instructions on how to proceed. The instructions are given in dramatic fashion as:
 3 rainbows lit on castle, shots, & targets
 Color value goes up each shot

#2113 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Thanks guys; i see the status page for SOTR now.
Now if only i can get HOADC collected with a big munchkin mode so i can boost past 500k

Are you getting haunted multiball. There are huge points there as well.

#2185 3 years ago
Quoted from zutton1:

Ok got another question for owners with decals on cabinet. I know that decals show imperfections in wood if not sanded down. So one side of my pin looks great but the other looks like crap...see pictures. Has anyone else noticed this on their machine? Is this common? Thanks

Did you get that new in box?
That looks like a crappy repair job. It should have been sanded and made smooth.

#2196 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

I think my new settings after this weekend will be:
- 7 second ball saver (just enough to catch those balls you don't even have a chance to touch)
- 3 Ball
- Extra Ball for special
- Otherwise factory.
I find that having a hot ball makes or breaks games for me so 4 or 5 ball and lots of extra ball rewards doesn't help me
Much. The one time I scored 2 mil was mostly from a single ball.... dang, why couldn't I pull that off this weekend

I believe those are the settings I used as well.

#2226 3 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Can someone help me cross reference a part number for a JJP part? It's the switch for the crystal ball spinner. JJP's part number is 18-3003-00. Looking to get the generic part number so I can order from Pinball Life tonight and have it by this weekend.
Is there a cross reference list for JJP's parts against Bally/Williams?

It is most likely a DB3.

#2257 3 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I did not know that. Didn't JJP's flipper bat have problems with breaking?
I have some epoxy. Should stay on there for good.

Some of the sparkly red bats were breaking but I don't think it was a high percentage of them. They switched to black bats sometime in 2014.
The red slippers can be re-installed with gel superglue if they come off of the bats. I have been lucky and mine have not come off. I don't believe that there have been many reports of the slippers actually breaking.

#2262 3 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Sounds great, only concern is the GI light, TH is way better I'm sorry Woz was not improved with a running update.

All that is needed on WOZ is one spotlight near the crystal ball, one near the Wizard-with-Toto plastic and one in the trough.

#2268 3 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

Thats odd. If you go to JJP web site it has the slippers pictured installed already

Quoted from clg:

The slippers have always been there, they just changed the flipper bats at some stage

Yes, the slippers should be on the game from the factory. I am referring to the bats being black. The slippers are glued to the top of the bats.

#2307 3 years ago

From memory, I think I was able to replace that rubber by only removing some of the screws so that I could lift the back of the mini-playfield up a little.

On different note, I just tilted away a 969,000 end of ball bonus.

#2310 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Thanks guys. I'll tackle that beast in the morning.
Holy crap on that bonus! That's huge. I'm laughing in sadness for you - gotta love some of the rules involved in this game.

FYI, The steps for removing the Munchkin playfield are on pages E-4 and E-5.
Like I said above, you don't have to completely remove it to get to the rubber but the steps in the instructions should help you get it loose to replace the rubber.

#2318 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Also, the game calls for a 2" rubber in that spot. Thinking about replacing with a 2 1/2" so it doesn't break as easy, any thoughts on that?

I would put a 2" Titan in there. 2.5 is probably too big.

#2319 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

I was able to get some mini pliers under the plastic to get the first nut off. That second is partially under the ramp though so gonna be a bit tougher to access. I gotta bail in a few so might not get to it today.

Can you get a box head wrench on the one that is under the ramp edge?

#2329 3 years ago
Quoted from Buzz:

Does anyone know if the rainbow lights are one unit? My b doesn't do white or blue. And where can I order a replacement. Thank you for any help.

Yes. It is board W10:

WOZ-lights (resized).jpg

Capture10 (resized).JPG

Capture9 (resized).JPG

#2338 3 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

Wow! Is this the most helpful instructions I've seen. If you made this then man I'm bow to your greatness! *bow-bow-bow*. If this is a reprint from the WoZ manual then thanks for the reprint. My manual is enroute. I've only owned my WoZ for 4 days and trying to learn the rules, so this info will be immensely helpful.

Thanks. I did make the 2nd and 3rd pages (thus they are unofficial but I believe to be 100% accurate). JJP made the first image/page.

#2343 3 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

Does anyone have any input on how the play field protectors affect the roll overs?

I don't think they are needed for a home game, and many have reported that they have a negative affect on the switch sensitivity.
I do recommend the Cliffy inlane switch slot protectors.

#2345 3 years ago

I should have also said the munchkin playfield edge Cliffy and the other hole/VUK cliffys. I also use the trough eject cliffys on my games.
He may have some available that are carbon fiber.





#2356 3 years ago
Quoted from 1quartershort:

WOZ GI lighting
I am thinking about enhancing the GI lighting but do not really need the full kit that is available. Thinking about adding three spots, one mounted on the existing post for Dorothy house light and another new post with two spots near the crystal ball VUK. Plan was to tap into the L4 plug for the house spot and the L1 (may have them backwards) for the castle spot. Thinking I would just make a wye harness at each plug for the tap rather than messing with any of the factory wiring-plus it would be easily removable. Bulbs would be 12v led of course. Question is will the existing wiring etc handle the additional load? I am assuming that the led draw is minimal but not an expert.

The existing spotlight circuit can handle three additional bright 12v LEDs with no problem.

#2400 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

really getting into this game now after have for a few days. Yesterday I played for almost 3 hours. Never had that happen before (at one time). The game is just so complex. I've owned TZ in the past but this one just has me coming back for more. Loving it. How the lighting changes during certain modes like munchkins is so impressive.
Regarding the shoot again option - I swear, sometimes I drain right in the beginning and it goes right to ball 2. Is there something special about shoot again with this game?
Also - any tips for a newbie to rack up the points?

Make sure you have the latest code so the ball saver works like most other games. It did not give any grace time with old code.

#2414 3 years ago

YBR alternates between the ramp and the orbits.

#2440 3 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Well, the slippers lasted about 350 plays. At least it didn't break. What adhesive do you suggest using?

Gel super glue should work well.

#2443 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

So for noobs like myself; what volt LEDs should we be using to tie into WOZ and do you just tie into one of the GIs? Or other spot lights?

Tie into the spotlights. Use 12 volt LEDs.

I did similar to what Jim_Z did except I used only one spotlight on each side and mounted them a little lower. Having a spotlight facing toward the player would have been too blinding for me.
I also put a spotlight in the trough facing toward the ramp to have light throw from front to back.

The Comet Optix Maximus is a nice bright choice if you want to add a couple spotlights.


#2456 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

thinking about putting an led strip which I usually clip to an existing light below the table for power. This new table - seems like they run on boards or something diff than old school. How would I go about clipping or adding a strip with the current tech used by WOZ? Want to put it behind the flippers.

Use a 12 volt strip and attach to the spotlight wiring.

#2458 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Thanks. I have something like this - would that work? Also - spotlight being right by the wizard? Assuming I can clip onto that from underneath?

You would need the 12 volt version of that. The one you linked is 6 volt.

#2460 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

OK - do they attach with alligator clips?

You probably would either need to use splice connectors or molex connectors with splitters. If you have the tools and know how the molex is the better way.

The red ones would work:

This is what the splice connectors look like after connection:

th (2) (resized).jpg

#2477 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Give them a call, i believe that they do. There is also factory pre-cut mylar available that would have protected that area.
Boy thats a lot of wear, was it a routed game and/or did the previous owner never clean the playfield?

Also, make sure to put new balls in the game.

#2484 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Whats the manufacturer date on back of your game? Thats alot of damage for being NIB only 2 weeks old! Id be on the phone with my distributor and JJP, thats unacceptable!!!

It appears his game is likely from back when the games had some defective playfields from a different manufacturer:


#2491 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

My thoughts as well. It looks look to have been well played and enjoyed.
Playfield pictures beyond the chips are a good reminder for anyone unsure about the importance of regular cleaning, wax and fresh balls.

Also, everybody should be putting the mylar on WOZ around the pop bumpers. If your game did not have it installed at the factory, JJP has supplied the pre-cut mylar to owners for free.

#2502 3 years ago
Quoted from Farmboss:

I have half of my rainbow lights out and the first T and last O of TOTO out. Does this seem more like a light board issue or a connection issue ? I have an early game.

See post #66:

Start with the right slingshot light board and check connectors/connections from board 21 through 26 to see if the TOTO lights can be resolved.
I believe the game needs to be off when disconnecting and connecting light boards.

1 week later
#2513 3 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

Thank you for the great advice and I will have to see who sells a magnetic bowl. I have most of the other parts you mentioned including the magnetic retrieval tool. I don't have the Klein magnetic nut drivers, but a non-magnetic long driver set from Titan Pinball that's very good quality but inexpensive. I did get a clip (with foam on the clips) on LED light from Lowes for $20, and I do use a brand new terrycloth towel every time I clean the glass or do any other work. You can get a pack of 50 towels on Amazon for $25, so towels for the playfield are easy.
The rubbers all came from https://www.titanpinball.com. I've been so very impressed with how the owner, Eric, has been very patient and helpful with my orders. The service couldn't be any better.

In your first picture, it looks like your slingshot rubbers are not mounted low enough on the flipper side.

#2532 3 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

Thanks for the suggestion. I did find a flipper rubber that was to high! I also stretched one sling shot rubber because it kept bumping after the pinball would leave.

It is not the rubber that is the problem when it is constantly bumping the slingshot. You need to adjust the gap on the slingshot switches.

#2601 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Pat:

I'm not sure how many shots I need to make before loading the castle VUK. I'm always a little panicked wondering what to do next. Lol

You need to make 4 of the lit shots. I am fairly certain you can shoot any of the shots more than once to count toward the four needed. Then the Winkie VUK will be lit and after you load a ball there the other ball needs to shoot the ramp and combo to the witch when it falls off the munchkin playfield.

#2607 3 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

I've lifted the play field and did my best to look for loose wires. I don't see any. I read my owners manual and emailed back and forth with JJ tech support. JJ tech support replied within 3 minutes of my submitted ticket.
"If your switch is still on. Then please go to Tests - Switches - Matrixed and push the drop target up and knock it down, see if it registers on the screen." I go to the Matrixed Switches screen and there isn't any instructions on how to go to a specific grid, nor does the printed manual explain, "you can manually test as many switches as you like."
How do you push the target up and down?

Make sure the switch is secure on the drop target assembly under the playfield:


#2613 3 years ago
Quoted from n2vsw:

We just received our NIB WOZ RR on wednesday. We had to wait until today to get it from the garage into the house and set up due to the weight of this thing. We had to wait for a few friends to come over and lend a hand. We unbox the new pin and get everything set up. We turn it on and wait for the machine to boot and it comes to life... sort of. The playfield lights are completely out. The monitor works and as far as we can tell the rest of the game works but there is no lighting. A quick call to the distributor who suggests looking for a loose connector somewhere. We didn't find anything loose on the playfield or the back of the metal box that houses the cpu. I opened the lid on the metal box and noticed a grey cable was not plugged into the i/o board. Its the same round grey cable that daisy chains to the led boards. This should be an easy fix, plug it back in right? The grey cable has a white plug on the end. This plug only fits one way in it's socket. The problem is the plug is currently attached to the socket but the socket is not on the i/o board. I don't know if it was accidentally pulled off the i/o board or if it's attached that way at the factory and was missed. The think I know where it goes but don't know what in orientation to install it. It can be installed with the plug release to the left or 180 degrees out. Any help or a picture would be appreciated.

Is it J4 on the unified power board? J4 is the RGB LED power. Page D-150 of the manual.

unified power board (resized).JPG

#2615 3 years ago
Quoted from n2vsw:

Definitely not that board. The cable is grey with 5 small wires inside. The plug on the end of the cable has 5 pins in a single row. It comes into the aluminum box through a rubber grommet from the back right corner. The other wire that comes in through that grommet is a black cable. The grey cable is the same as the data cable that daisy chains the light boards.

Probably J802 on the I/O board then. see Page D138 of the manual. J802 is the RGB LED control.

IO board (resized).JPG

#2624 3 years ago
Quoted from n2vsw:

That little square on the end next to pin 1 is not the clip. The clip is on the long side of the socket.

The clip go towards the center of the board:

IMG_1374[1] (resized).JPG

#2626 3 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

post some pics if you can, that will help us help you

I believe I just posted the pic he needs above your post. J802 is right next to U801.

#2630 3 years ago

You are real classy to down-vote me for a blank post above when I am the only person that has made any attempt to help n2vsw fix his disconnected connector problem. Bravo

Do newbs want help or not? If the people that are trying to help others get bashed then what is the point?

1 week later
#2644 3 years ago
Quoted from Docb8456:

I am new here and sorry if a repost, but my Woz 75 came a week ago and I am wondering if anyone else has the back glass on the top being rust color and orange. Mine is that way and all the pics I see online seem to look reddish with a purpleish tone. I think they did not make it properly, as it does not match the red theme at all. Also, were the numbers not consecutive, because mine is in the 300s yet some older posts show some in the 700s

See this picture below, based on the various photos posted it is the way most of the Ruby Red's seem to look:

2fa6bce8a504c758d6c4bcc66f1d95b735021f8d (resized).jpg

#2648 3 years ago
Quoted from Docb8456:

This is the color I am talking about. It seems like it is missing part of the dye maybe.

Call jjp.

Also, it appears your topper light is not lit.

#2679 3 years ago
Quoted from Docb8456:

can anyone tell me how to make an adjustment to the home target in the there's no place like home area by the state fair balloon? the ball is getting stuck on it and not draining and I have to tilt to get it out

It may be helpful to post a picture when the ball is stuck.

#2686 3 years ago

It looks like both the "There's" and "Home" targets are out of position too much outwards. I believe you should be able to loosen them under the playfield a little and move them inward and then re-tighten the targets.

#2722 3 years ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

I heard that their new ones are version 2.0 with the bullet proof boards. I just placed an order through Jack last week for mine for that reason. I could have saved a couple hundred bucks through a distributor but decided to go right to the source.

Are you saying the light boards have been updated recently? If so, I hope they found an alternative for the discontinued chips they were using in WOZ.


#2725 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

It would be interesting to see if someone with boards marked 2.0 could snap a couple pics.
So my boards are not 2.0, but appear to have had a post production factory fix applied. It looks like they are now using this controller (if I'm looking at things right):
I wonder if this is fix is equivalent to the 2.0 boards.

I thought those were just the buffer circuits they added to remedy the static electricity and signal lock ups.

#2734 3 years ago
Quoted from agodfrey:

The red LED on "N" in rainbow on the munchkin PF isn't coming on. Plan on doing the normal wire jiggles but it seems like that is the only LED in the whole game acting up. And the green and blue work fine. Prob a wire issue or a LED issue? Seems like more LEDs would be acting up if it were a wire issue. But wondering if anyone has run accost this and where to start jiggling.

That sounds like the red of the RGB LED has failed. You likely need a new W10 board to fix it. Since the W10 board is the last light board in the string it should not affect any other lights in the game.

Capture9 (resized).JPG

#2736 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

How much do the light boards typically cost to replace?

I don't know for sure but am guessing that one is around $20 to $50. Last I saw the largest light board was around $79 to $59.

They are going to want the old one back for repair/inventory.

#2743 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

This diagram has appeared a few times in this thread. If a moderator or new editor is watching, they should make it a key post. I just bookmarked it.

If a mod is going to make a key post of the diagram, please use post #2329 in this thread since it has all three drawings/diagrams (1 JJP, 2 from me) that show the relationships of the light boards.

#2747 3 years ago
Quoted from agodfrey:

Just got an email from Vic. W10 is $70 if you send the old one back if the machine is out of warranty. eskaybee

Thanks for the info. Not that I need a board, but that sounds reasonable to me.

#2752 3 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Ok, first issue. Had league night and WOZ gave out. It will not spit out balls. The game starts but will not put a ball in play. I don't know much about jjp games so here is my first issue.

Check fuse F706, the wire connections on the ball trough upkicker coil, and the connectors on the ball trough optos.

#2759 3 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

While we're on the subject of the winged monkey....my monkey operates correctly and picks up the ball from the playfield about 75% of the time. When he does pick the ball up, it's accompanied by a satisfying "snap" of the ball hitting the magnet under the monkey. When he fails to pick it up, the ball shifts a little bit on the play field magnet but when he leaves, the ball doesn't stick to his magnet at all and just goes into the OZ lanes. It's like the monkeys magnet doesn't energize.
Does anyone else have this problem and know of a solution?

The first thing I would try is some brand new pinballs.

#2761 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I had the same problem (new pinballs by the way too). The limit switch at the bottom travel of the monkey was a little loose. I snugged that up and the monkey only misses picking up the ball maybe 1 out of 25 times now. Check and try that. Not sure why that improved the pickup, but might be a travel/magnet timing thing.

Yes, if the monkey is not making it to the point of being centered over the magnet then the switch is likely getting triggered too early.

#2773 3 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Issue fixed. Thanks to everyone who commented..

Great. Was it the fuse?

1 week later
#2833 3 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

I've had my Cliffys on order for some time now ... getting anxious each time an airball smacks that playfield ... do you remove the mini playfield to install?

Put some Velcro on the edge until the cliffy comes. The velcro has enough of a spongy quality to protect the edge for a while.

#2838 3 years ago

Lock takes precedence over twister. There may be an option in the settings to change that but I doubt it.

2 weeks later
#2899 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

So I have an emerald green unit that was for sale a while back (not ecle, just had the green armor and rails, etc). It came with a topper that was a kind of silhouette of the emerald city. Maybe it's what was on the ecle. I'm not sure. Bottom line, I recently got a 75th topper and put it on. But lit up all green like the other topper, I don't think it looks very good. I should have gotten pictures. Sorry.
Is there a way to change the color of the lights that illuminate the topper? I looked in the settings but couldn't find anything. Thoughts?

You need a white light strip.

#2908 2 years ago

it has been discussed and the consensus was the LED drivers were out of production.

#2916 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I'm not following this and feel like I'm missing something. What is not being supplied anymore, and what does it do?


#2919 2 years ago

Anybody know the part number for the LED chip itself.

#2922 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The part number is
Its a great all in 1 package, Im surprised they discontinued it, unless people just needed more channels.

The driver (a6281) is the same, but I don't think that is the same LED chip that is used in WOZ.

#2931 2 years ago
Quoted from fattdirk:

Anyone connected a Stern shaker to their Woz?

It would obviously be easier to use the correct one:


#2949 2 years ago
Quoted from audihere:

What was the first to shaker motors doing that wasn't right?

Blowing fuses I believe.

#2952 2 years ago
Quoted from Frli002:

Yes, can not use a Shaker from jjp on my woz, fuses blowing.

Call JJP. I think they have had that problem figured out for quite a while now.

#2957 2 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Mine has always worked perfectly.

It was some of the early deliveries that did not have a capacitor. Like I said, they fixed it a long time ago before the majority of WOZ were made.

#2962 2 years ago
Quoted from Farmboss:

My monkey will not drop the ball. It picks it up and then takes it to the top but then nothing. It goes into ball search and finally drops it. I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue.

There is a switch at the top of the monkey path. Adjust that to be more sensitive.

#2966 2 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

My WoZ was delivered today and it's mostly in perfect condition. One glaring issue though is with the monkey. When he goes down to pickup a ball the mech slides along two grooves in the wood and makes a loud and horrible screeching noise. If I put a little weight on the monkey bracket the noise doesn't happen. I'm guessing I'll either have to adjust the monkey somehow or maybe the wood needs to be sanded a little bit to make more space. Any thoughts?

A mild amount of lithium grease on the threads of the monkey mechanism usually solves the grinding noise.

#2969 2 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

My monkey goes down and sits on top of the ball, it won't go back up unless I hit the flippers. Any ideas?

Likely the switch at the bottom of the monkey track is not sensitive enough. Check it in switch test.

monkey (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
1 week later
#3056 2 years ago
Quoted from tp:

I'm in!! Nib standard 836/1000...invisiglass and shaker. She's a beauty. What mods are a must?

Get the Mezelmods firepots.

#3103 2 years ago

Doesn't the throne room mystery award occasionally award an extra ball?

Some other extra balls available are: 10 yellow brick road shots, 50 yellow brick road shots, two successful HOAD collects, getting the 10th fireball frenzy shot, and I set Special to extra ball but Special does not come up much.

#3105 2 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Hey guys, been awhile since i posted in this thread. Weird story with my WOZ. So a good friend bought it from me about a month ago. He sent me a check, but continued to cancel on me each time we setup a delivery + setup day. I told him im going to buy another game with the $ and he said no problem. Then an emergency popped up and he sends me a message asking if i'd just hold onto the WOZ for awhile (undisclosed amount of time), and he said he has no problems with me playing it in that time - he knows how nice i keep my machines. So no problem win win for me for the most part. Ive known him for 30+ years so we're close and cool with each other so im not too concerned with holding it. I havent played it and it has sat untouched for about a month, but he still wants me to hang onto it; so i said F* it, im powering this sucker up and playing. Holy hell, such a cool game! What a blast!
But, my reason for posting is to ask, does anyone know if you can change the music around like you can with Stern's? I have some ideas for some WOZ-like mixes to do with the music. I did some cool stuff for TWD, Mustang, GOT, + STLE; but want to try some things with WOZ.

They set up the software so nobody is likely to hack it to change music.

#3135 2 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Yeah I just noticed that after I posted!
I have the topper bracket installed but there doesn't seem to be any wiring or lights anywhere. The broken topper they sent me also didn't come with any wiring or LEDs. I've contact JJP already for a replacement so I'll ask them what's up.

The LED strip should probably be in the bracket, and the wire connects down at the bottom left in the back of the cabinet with a molex connector if I remember correctly.

#3137 2 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

OK I'll have to get on a step ladder or lower the head to get a closer look. Since the topper wasn't shipped with the game I'm wondering if they may have missed some other parts to it. There's definitely no light leaking out of it and I slid the broken half of the topper into position and it did not light up.

It would be lighting up your ceiling if it was on. Like you said, get up there and see if the strip is in the bracket. If it is then trace the wire up there down to the inside of the cabinet to see if it is connected. If it is not there at all then ask JJP for a topper light assembly.

#3145 2 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

I don't see a topper brightness setting anywhere in any of the settings. Perhaps it doesn't show up if the game doesn't sense the topper lights are plugged in... Will inspect it all later today and see what's up.

See Nokoro's post above. The top part of the topper bracket needs to be removed to see the lighting.

Edited incorrect info.

#3148 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Game Settings - General - Topper Brightness

Thanks. I did not know that was there not that I will ever use it.

#3152 2 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

I still have to re-attach my right ruby flipper. I tried 3M Extreme Double-sided Tape. Was pathetic. I let it set for a few hours and it lasted about 5 games. I'm thinking something more permanent is the way to go but I'm worried about changing bands down the line. I could change the bands now and then glue the tops on but I only have 600 games. Feels early. But then again it's like $4.

Use gel superglue for the ruby red slippers. You should be be able to get rubber or Titans over the flippers no problem. I was able to put Superbands on but that is always a matter of brute force.

#3159 2 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Has anyone's winkie drop target just seem to stop coming back up? In the test settings it works both up and down but in game play it just don't come up. Nothing in settings were changed or disabled.

Check the microswitch at the bottom of the target to see if it is coming loose. A lot of people initially had the screws come loose.

#3162 2 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Awesome, you hit the nail on the head. Thanks
Now for issue number two lol: The spring from the spinning house that pulls the legs back in popped off, found a washer, spring and e-clip. Any idea on how to open the house and to set the spring back in?

I don't know for sure but would not be surprised if you have to take the house off of the mini-playfield to fix that. LTG likely would be able to lead you on that repair.

I have taken the house off before to put on plastic protectors but I don't remember enough to help for your situation.

#3168 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The manual shows the complete break down of the house and the part numbers in case you break something.
Its snapped together in pieces with decals applied.

Can the house be taken apart from the top of the playfield?

#3170 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Probably, but I would pull the whole PF as a precaution the first time I did it. That way I could be more careful.
The plastic is pretty delicate.

I thought the house was made of metal?

#3212 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I'm confused. Are we expecting a new mode called reverse ball play that is different from reverse flippers?
Any new mode at this point would just be icing on this already terrific cake of code.

Falconpunch corrected it and said "Reserve" rather than reverse. I don't know anything, but my guess would be a ball is held somewhere when in multiball and is given out to extend a multiball.

#3254 2 years ago
Quoted from Radius118:

War of the Winkies!!!

Real fire.

#3275 2 years ago
Quoted from netcivil:

I was told by a JJP dealer this morning that "The new machines (built in the last 2 months) now employ an entirely new system that is on par with the hobbit and dialed in. They are no longer daisy chained together, they are independent.".
I know nothing more or less than that.

Wow if true. I wonder how much they would charge to change the whole thing out.

#3286 2 years ago
Quoted from Radius118:

I seem to remember someone saying that JJP was backordered on munchkin mini playfields.
I called JJP to order some parts and it turns out they have all 3 of the playfields in stock. The mini's are $150 each and the main is $700.
That being said, I also found a source for NOS playfields for $300 each. The playfields were purchased directly from Jack at a show back in March of 2013.
So from what I have learned so far about WoZ playfields, they are almost certainly Bader playfields. I personally don't think this is a bad thing, but I suspect some people may be scared of a Bader playfield even though the failure rate is actually pretty low. Not a big deal to me as I am going to clear it anyways.
The person that has these is a well known pinsider but I don't want to publicly publish his name in this post. If anyone is interested in obtaining one of these $300 playfields PM me and I will let you know who to contact.

The playfields they were selling for $300 were not fit to be used in a game. I believe there were defects or substandard clearcoat.

#3315 2 years ago
Quoted from BlueIrocGuy:

I recently joined the club by picking up a used standard Woz. While still figuring out the quirks and different features of this game I have a couple of questions I hope can be answered here...
1) In regards to the rca plug on the back of the pin, is this just for a going to a stereo amp or can it be run to a powered sub as well?
2) I found this piece in the bottom of the cabinet and I'm not sure where it belongs.

That cylinder is for one of the GI light boards in the game. The light board under the playfield sends the light through the cylinder to above the playfield. It could have fallen out of the playfield or it could be an extra that was dropped by a worker when assembling the game (less likely).

pp000043 (resized).jpg

In the picture the LED on the light board is actually not in the proper position aligned beneath the tube.

#3340 2 years ago
Quoted from netcivil:

anyone else have the issue where the machine doesn't detect balls locked under Munchkin land, and when it does a ball find it doesn't lift the lock to release the balls?
I've had it happen a few times during play, and recently even powering the machine off and on doesn't release the balls. I've had to open the machine up and left the lever by hand.

See post #5:

1 week later
#3518 2 years ago
Quoted from redacted:

I wonder if there's something wrong with my WOZ. I've had it for 18 months and it's been played plenty, but nobody has ever been able to lob a ball to hit the edge of the Munchkin Land playfield.

It bounces off the Glinda target or ramp edge and hits the edge of the munchkin playfield.

#3529 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Earlier in the thread I read someone protected the mini munchkin playfield with something other than the Cliffy. I'm a big fan of cliffys, but the difficulty to install on this one has me shying away. I don't like drilling playfields at all. Anyone have any thoughts?

You could probably do ok with drop dead foam but it would be uglier than the cliffy.

#3559 2 years ago

Actually 1000 ECLEs and however many early Standards were made with direct print plus early prototypes.

#3570 2 years ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

So I would like to know how the flipper holds shut off pops? Is this a timing thing I'm doing wrong cause never seemed to work for me. Is it a settings thing I need to change?

In default code, if a haunted forest mode is lit to be started then you hold both flipper buttons and the pops will not fire. In the settings you can set it to allow the pops to be stopped any time you hold both flipper buttons which is what I like because it improves flow when you want it and gives the player more interaction with the game.

2 weeks later
#3644 2 years ago

If all of the lights are locking on from W6 on then I would guess either W6 has a problem since it is the first light board or the connectors on that board need to be re-seated. W6 is the first light board in the series of lights.

1 week later
#3691 2 years ago
Quoted from thunder001:

Only a section of them are not all the led's. I'm confused people are telling me they should be and other people are stating they aren't all RGB changing. If they are suppose to be all RGB what would the cause be for them not changing?

They are all RGB. The first yellow brick road inserts before the yellow brick #1 insert are painted over so the color of the light appears slightly different.

In test, switch between the all red, all green and all blue and you will be able to see which inserts have a color that is not working properly.

#3718 2 years ago

It sounds like the fuse blew. All those lights are on the same fuse.

#3720 2 years ago
Quoted from BlueIrocGuy:

My thoughts as well, but visual check of all fuses looks good, so I need to figure out which one this circuit uses to test it further. I'll have to get some free time again to look at the schematics and figure out where it goes...


2 weeks later
#3797 2 years ago
Quoted from thunder001:

Can someone tell me how to check to see if the lighting on the throne room is working properly. I ran the led test for all GI lights and it never lights up. Is that the right place to check the throne room lighting on the plastic OZ insert? I noticed last night while playing it never lit up green. Going through the tests I couldn't find the throne room in the list.

Is it lighting when you turn on the game? If not then check the connectors, and then contact JJP about getting a replacement.

#3801 2 years ago
Quoted from rubberducks:

Developed a few issues with my WOZ after a recent move. Looking for a bit of guidance as to what might be the underlying issues. Engineer is visiting tomorrow. Machine was treated extremely gently in the move, and cab still looks perfect. Only thing was that when I came to switch it on the first time, BIOS boot screen came up saying there'd been an unexpected shutdown (I don't remember it). Hasn't happened again though.
- Winged Monkey monorail does not work - including at system boot.
- Added LED kits are dead - illuminated state fair balloon, haunted forest eyes, under pf kit.
- Spotlights all dead.
- Topper illumination no longer works.
- Throne room picture of wizard no longer illuminates.
- Throne room torches no longer illuminate.
- Witch no longer raises or lowers, nor do her well mounted LEDs work. Target still works normally, but her hurry up no longer ticks down and stays at maximum value, but can be awarded. Fireball Frenzy jackpots no longer work.
- No toy tests save for the castle doors work.
- No coil tests work.
- However all mechs and coils work normally in normal gameplay except for the winged monkey's monorail and the witch.
Game behaves perfectly otherwise.
I'm hoping it's a fuse issue, but seems like remarkably disparate things. The only one that I'd experienced before was when I first got it, a single time the toy and coil tests didn't work, but then rebooted it and all fine.
Oh, and another thing is that slings are double, triple or quadruple (or more) firing sometimes, so had to turn the pulse timing down to prevent coil burn out. But that occurred before the move. Assume the switches need adjusting and it's completely unrelated to the other stuff.
Thanks in advance for any help.

Check fuse F714

fuses2 (resized).JPG

#3827 2 years ago
Quoted from TomT:

Looks like my Wizard stand up led board is out is there any way to test it other than the all led test? I can see that the leds on the board are barely glowing but thats it.

It is just a LED strip, not a board. You may just need to check the connector.
I believe the test is under flasher tests.

#3832 2 years ago

With the strips I suspect failures would often be where the wire is soldered to the contact points on the strips.

#3861 2 years ago
Quoted from mountaingamer:

I remember seeing a mod or tweak to the haunted sign a while ago, where it somehow gets rotated to the right slightly, so it's more visible to the players perspective - anyone know how it's done or have any pics?

I believe you can loosen the mount and rotate it a bit and retighten it.

1 week later
#3898 2 years ago
Quoted from Gorgar123:

Just got a RR and am having the same issue with the throne room led being out. I went through all the test menus 3 or 4 times and could not find it and I figured I was just missing it and it was buried somewhere. Was about to take the throne out/apart and check the solder connections and/or see if I could get another strip to work there, but after reading this I am realizing it is 12 volts and the strips I have are 6 volts so I guess I will just do the voltage test and then order a new strip if needed. Is the power always on to that connector or do I need to put it in some kind of all led test when I check?
Also, my top left forest pop bumper is not firing, even in the coil test. Any known issues with that one I should look for?
Other than these two minor issues, everything else seems to work perfectly and I am loving the game.

For the pop bumper make sure it is not rubbing on the playfield support under the playfield. Some people have had that happen. You may need to shift/jockey the playfield a fraction to the right. For the green throne room LED strip I believe you can test it in flasher tests.

4 weeks later
#3969 2 years ago

You want the directory to be woz_update

and under the directory it should look something like this after extracting all files:

files (resized).JPG

1 week later
#3979 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

so just rejoined the club. Missed the game. Bounced around a number of classics and this game is really special. Still nothing like it IMO. It is the twilight zone of the new gen. Tech, shots, music - it has it all.
Advice to make the middle of the playfield brighter? I installed spotlights on my previous IJ and it made a huge diff. Problem is I don't know if you can alligator clip into these boards.
Has anyone mad the middle of the game brighter?

Just add a couple of spotlights, one on the left near the crystal ball and one near the throne room. You can get 12 volts from the other spotlights.

#3981 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

OK - would these work though?
If not, can you link me to ones that will?

Yes, the spotlights would work. Just remember to use 12 volt LEDs. These worked well for me:


#3983 2 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Did you go with the natural or sunlight version.

I am fairly sure it was natural. I am not really sure what sunlight LEDs would look like.

#3987 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Thanks. How did you connect them though b/c in the past i've used alligator clips. I don't think you can do that with WOZ. I would like to add a few LED strips to the game but again - not what I connect them too.

I used molex splitters I made. You could use splices if you do not have the tools and parts to do molex.

amazon.com link »

In this picture the black wire represents the existing WOZ spotlight wire fed through the splice (which makes a small cut in the insulation for contact) and the red would be a wire from the new spotlight. You would need one for each of the two wires.
th (2) (resized).jpg

#3996 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Tips for hitting the "Collect" shot associated with the horses? I know you prob need to hold right flipper so you can shoot the ball in from left flipper but just can't do it. Am I missing something?

Shoot it from from the left flipper firmly and drop the right flipper just as the ball is in the right spot so the dropping flipper will usher the ball into the shooter lane. It takes a bit of practice but it works.

Though, I question the risk/reward value in the shot.

1 month later
#4246 2 years ago
Quoted from mountaingamer:

That WOZECLE was 4 years ago..... man time flys

For many of us it was 3 years ago. I like to not dwell on the waiting that was done and concentrate on the fun that was gained. Lessons learned though.

#4275 2 years ago
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

I've had my RR for a couple months now but just recently started having this issue. Capture Dorothy is not lit yet however magnet captures ball when I hit right orbit and monkey does not drop down to capture it obviously. Ball just stays stuck on magnet.

If it is a slow shot around the orbit it could be magnetized balls. Are you using the factory balls?