(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

6 years ago



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8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (6 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (3 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (1 year ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (1 year ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (12 months ago)


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#24 6 years ago

Great to see this thread. The only downer in it for me is looking at that high score and realising I need to get A LOT better! Still have not melted the witch or got the GC score. I have a long weekend though and hoping to finally get her!

#107 6 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Sold my ST Prem TODAY. Buying WOZ TOMORROW! Ditributors have some down here. Should I be asking the dealer about this LED board problem? Should I check the a manufacture date or something to get an idea what run it's from?

I have one of the AULE's from Wayne that is probably the same batch. I had a couple little things but jjp sent parts and it got sorted. I have not had led locking problems at all I suspect you will be fine. Enjoy!

#131 6 years ago

Spent three hours playing WOZ yesterday, set a GC score (finally!) battled the witch 5 times but still have not beaten her. I keep getting so close but just can't make it. The game is such a blast to play, there is always something else to do on it. I seem very dialled in on it at the moment so hoping the witch will die very soon!

#136 6 years ago

Just broke a million still can't kill her...

#168 6 years ago

To adjust the castle loop all you need to do is raise the wire form that controls the ball in the loop. I just raised mine slightly by lifting/bending it with my fingers, no tools are needed very small and easy adjustment. I have mine adjusted so that the wire form is a bit over the midway point on the ball, it was a bit below the midway point before.

#187 6 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

I am seeing a lot of scores now in the 1 million+ range and am curious at what point people are racking up big scores. My highest to date, 3 ball 1 EB, was 700k+ and really exploded from mid 400k when I was able to stack CB and HB.
Any tips appreciated.

I have had a few high scoring games now and would attribute it to stacking but also longevity, in my best I got to battle the witch twice and kept stacking modes. Might get a couple hundred k in each stacked mode but I did it several times in the one game. Last weekend it just seemed like I could play forever and not drain, unfortunately that seems to have stopped this weekend...

#210 6 years ago

I had to hit the loop just right or it would reject, much easier and faster now. I find I can lock balls much more easily.

On the munchkin cliffy I had 300+games on mine before I added it and only one small dent, I don't get many airballs at all so interesting how individual machines can vary.

Had a great game yesterday 1.2 million. I stacked ECMB, CB (lights on so not that bad), and Haunted. Big points it was awesome! Almost got the witch that game but just drained after making the first four shots. The game is just a blast to play, it is always the first one I go to.

#247 6 years ago

Glad you are enjoying it! I posted something like this a few weeks after I got mine but got the 'you are in a honeymoon phase' posts and it will change. Well over 5 months now and still love it plus I am much better at it now. Very curious about hobbit and I am sure they will do a good job on it i am not going to pre pay for one but expect it will be awesome and that I will pick one up.

1 year later
#1027 4 years ago

Been playing mine a bit the last few days. I seem be able to melt the witch with some regularity now. A long way from sotr but maybe some day...

1 month later
#1044 4 years ago

Eskaybee here is some info:

2: Standard has stainless steel trim, no wood apron, no shaker and no invisigalss. That is it difference wise

3. 45 minutes is somewhere over the rainbow so that is a valinor sort of game. You can melt the witch (attainable wizard mode but hard) in about 10 minutes, maybe a bit less. It is hard to have really long games. It can be a bit brutal at times but then you can have some longer balls too.

4. A lot is involved in getting to SOTR so don't hold your breath on getting there with the glass on!

5. if you can get past the theme it really is a fun game. One thing I really like about it is there are so many things going on I can approach it differently each time. My strategy tends to evolve on each game depending on what happens early on.

Cheers

3 weeks later
#1111 4 years ago

I put the cliffy on and I don't think I have ever had a ball hit on it.

#1115 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

You are most definitely wrong...check back where the ramp is.

Yeah not so sure about that mate! I had no cliffy for the first 6 months and then put one on. Nothing when I put it on (and yes I looked as I was covering the whole thing up with steel) and I don't seem to see it getting hit much since then but it coudl have happened. May vary a bit game to game. Mine is setup steep which may make a difference. I like the way the cliffy looks so not really an issue having it on. Game has 2k plus plays on it.

4 weeks later
#1324 4 years ago

Your fix sounds correct fingers crossed it will be fine!

1 month later
#1509 3 years ago

The mezel Winkie looks great but doesn't last. It is not strong enough and will break

2 weeks later
#1558 3 years ago
Quoted from shimoda:

Playing another WOZ, stock, reminds me of just how much difference a little mod can make. Despite thinking the Winkie light-up drop target was a bit underwhelming at first, I've really grown to think it's the best mod I've done because it gives that target visibility. We played a WOZ at SFGE to show a relative the game and other than the normal expo style issues (like weak flippers from not enough power) it was hard to tell when the target was down. Most of the time I couldn't. I bought a replacement but I really just hope this holds up a good long time.

The lit winkie looks great but it is not strong enough. I have had two both broke. I am back to boring black now.

#1560 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Does the light still pass through at least some in the gap between the opening and target? Or did you also take out the led?

The light does still leak through and does make it a bit more visible than nothing. The mod does look great when it works but the plastic they print with just is not strong enough.

#1563 3 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

I have 700 or so plays on machine with most using the lit Winkie I got in late November 2015/early December 2015. Mines held up great. Did they change the design?

You are just lucky so far. Don't worry it will break!

2 months later
#1936 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

f I buy a used WOZ; how good is jjp support for getting me replacement boards, displays, etc... When I'm not the original owner? Is this something I should not be worried about (like any other pinball?) and just go for it? Thanks in advance.

Their online stuff sort of sucks but if you call them they are great. No worries with their support even all the way down in New Zealand.

1 week later
#2081 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I was going to say the same thing, but I think the Glinda target only rewards one or two of the letters, not all. I would put the game in switch test mode and bang around the playfield near the targets to see if one or more is gapped too closely.

Could be or he may have just got lucky and hit glinda and had a bounce and hit a few letters.

#2174 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Getting better. Got haunted mb and flipper frenzy this game but didn't do squat with it lol

Nice! It is all about stacking for high scores. Did you melt the witch yet?

#2178 3 years ago
Quoted from zutton1:

Ok got another question for owners with decals on cabinet. I know that decals show imperfections in wood if not sanded down. So one side of my pin looks great but the other looks like crap...see pictures. Has anyone else noticed this on their machine? Is this common? Thanks

Not normal. Those decals look like they were added later to cover up damage. Was it nib?

#2210 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

So no shit guys, I just did this!! Haunted MB, rescue, no hold flippers, munchkin, and ECMB all stacked!!!

EDIT: replaying the game in my head, I did all this on ball 3. I was around 750M, so already stoked I was on pace to beat my previous GC. I was able to pull out a 2 ball rescue mb. Then got haunted, and to my surprise it was haunted mb. I was able to cradle two balls on my right flipper and start munchkin with the left. Then started no hold flippers (holy shit that mode is "Chaos!"). I believe ECMB started sometime during all the madness too. My wife, who way laying in bed came into the game room and says 'are you alright?' I was literally screaming 'yeahs!' 'Fucks!' And 'oh gods!' - never has a pin done that to me. This might just be the best pin I've ever played/owned. I hope it's not just the honeymoon speaking. But on factory settings, with the pitch steep (think I'm 6.9 or 7), this pin reminds me of IM meets FGY meets TWD. Love it! My adrenalin is still pumping.

Awesome! It is so sweet when all of the stacks come together like that. And then you can have those games where you are almost there and everything is ready to go and you crash and burn before the stacks start and want to break it. It is a serious rush when it comes together. I have yelled more playing that game than any other. I was screaming at the witch 'die bitch die' when I finally got here lol!

#2221 3 years ago
Quoted from oohlou:

During weak flippers mode should you be able to hit the ramp?

I can just do it with a perfect shot but it is hard.

#2266 3 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

Thats odd. If you go to JJP web site it has the slippers pictured installed already

The slippers have always been there, they just changed the flipper bats at some stage

#2267 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

What's even better, that i don't see too often mentioned about this pin, is the drama build up of modes and multiballs. Music transitions and subtle sound effects build as you progress deeper and deeper - it's really a fascinating experience and what's been missing for so long in a lot of sterns.

It really does build up and change character as you progress, I really like how the character of the game changes and things build up then it just goes off if you can get there. The music and call outs just bring you along with the changes and they get everything they can out of the lighting too.

I like my sterns but they are different that is for sure. Got my Hobbit yesterday... If you like WOZ start saving up!

#2275 3 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

So, I have another problem that cropped up today.
During a game, the lower right flipper would quickly articulate three times really fast, then nothing. If I pressed it again, the same thing happened. The upper right and castle flipper behaved normally while the lower flipper did this. Restart did not help.
Any ideas?

Check the EOS switch on the flipper

#2278 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Its interesting that it would go dead after three rapid flips though? Is that the CPU detecting an EOS fail and killing power to that flipper? If so might show in audits?
Also, upper and lower flippers are on separate switches... wouldn't hurt to look at that.

I guess it could also be the low power hold is not working so the hammering is when EOS hits and switches to low power which is not there so the flipper drops and it releases the EOS so high power kicks in again triggers the EOS and the cycle repeats. After three times maybe the software is stopping it.

Go to coil tests and see if the low power circuit is working on that flipper. Also check the EOS switch and that no wires are loose anywhere.

1 week later
#2371 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

...and how do you remove the flipper rubbers with the shoes on top? Do those snap off?

You can pull the flipper rubber around the slipper. The slippers are glued in place.

There is a setting to delete all the high scores. I think you need to push the start button to confirm it.

#2393 3 years ago
Quoted from hardware:

Anyone who owns/owned TZ and WOZ care to answer?
I never played WOZ, but am wondering if it's a similar feel to TZ?
When I used to have TZ I had to be in the mood to play as it's a stop and go strategic feel. The rule set was awesome once you understood it, but overall my "flow" machines got most of the play time.

I used to own tz. Woz has an even steeper learning curve but imho the payoff is much better when you get there. You can be strategic when you play but I tend to get opportunistic and start putting a strategy together as I play as there are many ways to approach it I let the game evolve.

#2450 3 years ago

I always had trouble hitting the crystal ball with my right flipper. It had to be a perfect shot and rejected 85% of the time. After being on location for 4 months that shot is like butter now

#2486 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Whats the manufacturer date on back of your game? Thats alot of damage for being NIB only 2 weeks old! Id be on the phone with my distributor and JJP, thats unacceptable!!!

If that is an early build they had problems on some PF's. Hard to believe that is is two weeks old NIB it looks pretty dirty. I would expect them to replace the whole game if it is.

2 weeks later
#2619 3 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

About to join the club this week - that said, I am getting an original run WOZ standard - no shaker, no Invisiglass. I'm starting to wonder if I should hold out for an EC or RR? Any advice? Or should I just not worry about it and upgrade later if I want?

You can always add the shaker and invisiglass if you want. That and the paint/toppers are the only differences game play is the same.

1 week later
#2668 3 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Deal made. I'm in the club as of tomorrow. Picking up my RRWOZ. TZ is gone. But I can always get one again.

I sold a TZ to help fund my WOZ. I still have the WOZ and don't miss TZ. I liked the TZ theme but from a play standpoint it is not even close between the two. Enjoy!

1 week later
#2767 3 years ago
Quoted from agodfrey:

Other note a full populated munchkin pf is $290. So since mine is damaged I may just get the whole ball and have a spare everything. I think the board to buy outright alone is $150.
Anyone know what LEDs the use? I could always just replace the bad led. Get the whole new thing fix the board and have a working spare... Breaks once it'll break again one day

For bad boards JJP will do a swap with you at a price considerably less than retail. Talk to them.

1 month later
#3006 3 years ago
Quoted from mrs_mezelmods:

We have a new version in testing now. We hope it resolves the breakage issues we've experienced with the most recent build.

It would be good if you fixed it. Mine broke pretty quickly. I stopped using mods that were othen than cosmetic after that and another (not from you) broke way too quickly.

2 weeks later
#3091 3 years ago

When the coin door is opened there can still be a bit of power left in pins (I assume the capacitor) , enough to lightly fire a coil. I have noticed this in a few different games.

#3096 3 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

I have been so far out of the loop on this game in fact when I sold my ECLE it was at version 1.03. Now seeing that the code is at 6.06 I believe, is that a final version or are they still tweaking it? And for you guys who stuck this game out from the beginning what is your feelings about it from back then versus where she sits now. Thanks

Supposedly there will be at least one more code update. HUGE difference from where the code was to where it is. Night and day. Of all the things you can criticise this game about code is not one of them.

#3108 3 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

They set up the software so nobody is likely to hack it to change music.

Yes my understanding from what pinchorma said once is that it is very locked down and you can't get into modify things. Unfortunate really it would be cool if you could play around with music and call outs.

1 week later
#3160 3 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Check the microswitch at the bottom of the target to see if it is coming loose. A lot of people initially had the screws come loose.

Yep sounds like a switch issue

#3195 3 years ago
Quoted from Spg101:

I saw some posts on people continually scoring in excess is 600k. You playing 3 or 5 ball? Am I that bad? Best so far is 199k!?

You will get better. Not too hard to get over 199k Consistent over 600k is tough though.

#3261 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Yes, they just spin and spin. I tried prying the nuts as I turned the screw with no luck too.

Sometimes if you put outward pressure on the nut (pull it away from the screw head) while you are turning it you can get them to grab enough to get it off. Easier than cutting it and you still need a new one.

#3289 3 years ago

Not all Baders are bad. I was worried about mine but am at 5k games now. Still looks great.

#3322 3 years ago

Something to look out for. I went over my 3 year old WOZ after puling it off location for almost a year. I found quite of few of the screws holding in the single light boards were loosening up as well as a couple other things. No damage but it was making some lights dim as they didn't line up and over time it could have resulted in things breaking if I had not found it.

2 weeks later
#3533 3 years ago
Quoted from Spg101:

While I am somewhat mechanically inclined I have never in my life been into a pinball machine. This was my first experience. As someone in the forum said "just disconnect all the connectors that run to the play field. I did not pull it out 100% but labeled all the connectors as I was removing. (I could have but seemed like more of a pain in the A$$ than it needed to be) Someone said it should take an 1/2 hour, me moving slow and labeling all the connectors took the better part of a couple of hours. I wanted to make sure I didn't make any mistakes. I semi-removed, drilled with tapped bit and no problems. If you're even semi mechanically inclined it's not too bad. Easy, no but doable. I highly recommend the cliffy. Here is a pic of how I labeled the connectors.

Agreed.

Don't be afraid to remove the mini PFs it really isn't that hard just take your time. You will have to pull the mine PFs at some stage if you play it with any frequency. Rubber will break, things will come loose. I had to pull the castle one out twice the other day to adjust something as I didn't get it right the first time. The munchkin cliffy isn't that bad and it is worth it.

1 week later
#3561 3 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Actually 1000 ECLEs and however many early Standards were made with direct print plus early prototypes.

There were a bunch of "down under' LEs with direct print cabinets too

#3564 3 years ago
Quoted from frankmac:

Do you know if those are part of the 1000 US count or is that a "new down under count++"?

They are different and not part of 1000 count. Not sure exactly how many but I think at least 100

3 weeks later
#3685 3 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

I am a bit late on this: Mylar added to pops for early WOZ builds
Finally got around to contacting JJP support when my state fair board lost the R in RGB on one insert.
However, I was a bit perplexed. I was told I would be getting a mylar artwork sticker for the two pop areas (state fair and trees). But my PF is not damaged, I wanted to put mylar there to prevent it. I asked if clear mylar was an option and was told only the stickers were available. (so they are currently on their way)
To those that added these? was it clear mylar? a mylar covered sticker? if you had no PF damage, did you just cut your own mylar?
Curious as to others' experience with this.

Wonder if someone there was confused? They do have clear mylar. I put it on mine a while ago.

#3699 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Since you said it was new in box I would suspect some connectors got vibrated loose during transport. My personal first check would be to check all the light board data connections. If its the new style boards I believe they will be cat5 (like network cables) and should be easy to reseat them all pretty quickly.
Otherwise call the JJP support line during business hours. They can walk you through determining if anything is wrong and get you whats needed to fix it.

This!!!! Something is probably a little loose. It has happened to me a couple times. Be careful with the connectors and don't work with the lights when the power is on it can mess them up.

#3703 3 years ago
Quoted from thunder001:

I've checked all connections and can't find any loose. This is frustrating! A new machine and already not working!

No doubt it is frustrating but it is an easy fix. Drove me a bit mental when I first started messing with them because they were so different but they really are not that bad.

The key is to figure out which board the problem is occurring at, there is a lot about how to do that, then determine if it is the cable or the board. With connections reseat them don't just visually check them but only do that after you have identified the problem area.

2 months later
#3989 2 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Two things:
1. my shaker is starting to sound "squeeky" when it activates. haven't lifted the PF yet to look, but if there are any known spots to check or tighten let me know.
2. for me, the one annoying shot has always been the crystal ball, i'd say 75% of the time I get a reject. Any tweak, bend or fix to be done to help?
Been playing it alot more since the 6.5 release, such a nice polished game.

The crystal ball is like that you can try and play with the spinner a bit but it did not seem to do much for me. What did fix it was having it on location for 6 months, with more play it got much smoother. Same for me with the shaker. On location it was fine, but getting less play at home it squeaks at first but it goes away with play. Try using the test and just run the shaker for a bit and see if that helps, does on mine.

#4003 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Hey all.
I am pondering to buy a new Woz. I believe will be new (if I can swing it) but I am somewhat concerned with if there are some issues with Woz specifically does it break down more than a typical game.
I am not trying to start any trouble, I just was curious, also if I was buying new would that be better such as light board issues which I've hears so much about.
Also what the best way to add GI lighting, is there a kit that I can buy?
I'm off to play my friends RR pin hopefully I will decide to get WoZ (Other pin I'm considering is AFMr)
thanks

I own and have routed WOZ/Stern/Williams. Stuff breaks on all of them. The thing with the JJP games though is they are more complicated, more switches, lights, solenoids, etc and as a result there is more to break or as is more common need adjustment.

I have had very few things break on my WOZ but it has needed a fair bit of adjustment, particularly when I had it routed, that can take a bit of work if you have to dig around and get at something. Much easier working on a stern as there is just less there so they are easy to get at.

Nothing major though and minimal light problems on mine with an early build 7.5. TBH Sterns are probably easier to look after as there is less to look after unless you get weird node board issues but JJP are solid and if you are reasonably competent repair wise you will be fine.

#4069 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I'm still waiting for my Woz. But I wanted to explain why I decided to pick Woz over any number of possible games.
I like the theme so that helps but I also like what JJP did with the theme. I won't go into the details but you guys own it so you know. Like the witches casting spells on the machine etc..
I love the construction (no corners cut) and because it has been successful and well liked it is still in production that tells me something as well. I know some don't like WoZ some may actually hate the pin, but those that do like it (27dnast) and others have swayed me.
One thing that I have really started to enjoy about pinball is the rules. I got LotR, Tspp, TWD and enjoy the rules quite a lot. I've also had some games with rules that were just ok (ST and XM). Not saying they are Superbad but they really seem unfinished either bugs, missing parts, or just not quite great. I mean when I play a MB or a mode and I don't feel one way or another about it. Just like let me get this MB over with, I don't care.
Now looking at Woz which had a long and labored birth that was a pain but to me that's not any concern and may have made it stronger. Keith was able to work almost 2 years on the game before release. And with TH taking also long to complete, Keith was able to work on 2-3 games in 6+ years (however you want to divide it up) but Woz has been able to have the longest time to bake.
I looked at Stern (TWD a masterpiece) maybe one of the best but other games like Kiss or TAV probably not great. TWD has had 12code updates since release but two were one line like a single bug fix. And start to finish Lyman spent 2 years (while also working on other games).
Woz has had 43 code updates and (maybe) more to come? Keith has been on Woz for 6+ years. I know he has not been solely on Woz thats not the point, but Lyman does a game a year. He's fantastic but he's only one man and there are only so many hours in a day. I know Lyman has help but so does Keith, and just seems to me giving both credit as great programmers if one has 6 years (two years full time early on plus 4 years of less time while working on additional games).
Unless Lyman comes out with more code for Tron, TWD, Metallica, AcDc they are likely to be done. But with Woz still in production and JJP reliant on selling the few pins in their stable they probably are more likely to go the extra mile.
Stern does a great job at making 3-4 games a year, keeping the new titles coming out. That's great and fine, they have made many great pins. I just wonder if they might have made been better off making less number but putting max effort into a few pins.
AcDc is great but not as great as it could have been. Woz and AcDc began development around the same time but Stern made another 14 pins since then (not counting IMVE or WNBJM). The last code update for AcDc was 3 years ago. I know Stern has more teams maybe 3x more teams but they sill put out more games per team, Lyman has worked on AcDc, Met, TWD, SMVE, BM66 plus gone back to work on Tron over the past 6 years while Keith has been more focused on Woz plus the 2 later games.

WOZ is a great game hope you love it. I keep games at home for a while, put them in a pub for 9 months and then make a decision on whether to keep it or not. WOZ made my keep list

Get the red smoke witch. Makes the game.

3 months later
#4506 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

No turning back now. LTG : )

Are you converting to the new lighting?

1 week later
#4561 2 years ago
Quoted from coz6:

My understanding is it's a huge pain you have to pull the mini playfield so superbands are the way to go.

It is not that hard at all to do. You just need to loosen the PF so you can slip the rubber on. As to type of rubber who knows. I have had such mixed results with different rubber lately I don't know which way to go. Good luck though!

2 weeks later
#4620 2 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

I'm trying to avoid $200.

Contact them. They usually swap boards at a better price.

1 week later
#4705 2 years ago

Keep tracing back until you find the fault. They key is to keep going back. One bad board can have really weird effects on things downstream. You also need to change the software settings to omit the board(s) you are jumping over.

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