Kinda a newbie using this forum. I am trying to find any posts on installing Pin Stadium lights on my RRWOZ. When I do a search nothing pertaining to this topic shows up. Anyone with a tip for me?
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Kinda a newbie using this forum. I am trying to find any posts on installing Pin Stadium lights on my RRWOZ. When I do a search nothing pertaining to this topic shows up. Anyone with a tip for me?
Quoted from monte_:Here is a video i did for pinstadium on woz 2.0 ruby red
Thanks a lot good video!
Welcome! Go to the Pinstadium thread and do a search for "WOZ" in that thread and you should find all you need. It will be important to know if you have the 2.0 lights or not as the hookups are a little different with those. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-pin-stadium-lights-official-announcement?tq=woz&tu=
If you still have questions just post in that thread and Scott from Pin Stadium will be all over it, he can be over-the-top but his customer service is second to none.</blockquo
Thanks for the info much appreciated.
If anyone can help, I have been searching for this all over pinside with no luck. I keep getting switch error on #77,78 switches "Door Bash" both doors open and close fine during gameplay. The doors do not stay locked, first ball that hits goes right through to the saucer, then gets kicked out. Is it possible the coil has stopped working. This is a RR made in 2015,latest software and 2.0. If this is a bad coil where could I buy one as JJP does not have this on their website as for sale.
Quoted from pinballinreno:How does it work in the device test?
From there you can see the switches and door motors work.
The left door opens but the right only a little.
Quoted from LukyDuck:I am not sure if I understand your post, but I will say that it is common for the lock screws on the door hinge pins to become loose. The doors will then not open and close properly. They also will allow a ball to go through when hit.
To fix this you would need to remove the upper playfield and tighten the lock screws down.
I was thinking something is loose or broken underneath, guess I will take the upper playfield off for a good inspection.
Quoted from LukyDuck:I am not sure if I understand your post, but I will say that it is common for the lock screws on the door hinge pins to become loose. The doors will then not open and close properly. They also will allow a ball to go through when hit.
To fix this you would need to remove the upper playfield and tighten the lock screws down.
The Phillips screw was loose at the top of the latch, going to reinstall with blue locktite,The set screw in the shaft is missing but there is also one directly behind it so the shaft is ok. Now I have to try to find one lol.
IMG_1560 (resized).jpgQuoted from Navystan:Reporting back for duty...
1. I picked up #130 of 1,000 WoZ SE. It has 1.0 7.5V boards, but lights seem to work fine. I guess I should get 2.0 kit just in case for the future?
2. Owner never did code updates. Had 3.0 (?). I upgraded to 7.02 and had issues with monkey mech. Mike said "grease the monkey." that got it moving again, but then magnet sense not working. Saw post from LTG about troubleshooting and found the fix to just flip magnet. That did the trick!
3. Now, my last issue. Castle doors. The right door now doesn't open. I'm guessing I have to remove castle playfield (E3 of manual)? Then, I can see why the right door is not opening? It worked when I first got the machine. Could the code update from 3 to 7 cause the problem? Any ideas on how I should proceed to troubleshoot and fix the right door?
Thanks team WoZ!
I just had this problem. You have to take off the upper playfield, there are good directions in the manual.The screw on the latch was very loose. Added some blue locktite and good to go. The pic shows the phillips screw that is probably the culprit.
IMG_1560 (resized).jpgQuoted from Navystan:So, if I hear the mech, then it's the screw on the latch. If the screw is not tight enough, I assume I could move the right door with my hand, right? I say this because with the game off, I cannot move either the left or right door. Wouldn't that indicate the door is either binding or the motor is dead like LTG said?
Thanks.
My door did not work either.
I have an RR WOZ was told it had the 2.0 upgrade but the pcbs are red. Does anyone know if these were possibly modified to 2.0 before they were made green? I have had absolutely no problems with these bds or this pin in the year that I have had it. Picture included. Thanks
IMG_2313 (resized).jpgQuoted from John_in_NC:You have a 2.0. 2.0 has Ethernet cables vs red green in and out data cables
Thanks
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