uuuuuuuugh I can not wait to join this club when I get back state side.
New! Dark mode!
Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!
Just finished a few back and forth emails with Jack at JJP and I have to say, WOW! Not only did I get all my concerns and questions answered, he is doing me a few favors and helping to work around my deployment schedule when I receive my WOZ RR. He just made a lifetime buyer out of me, now I am going to have to make room for TH.
Quoted from merccat:
I'll guve it this much... it certainly adds a randomness to it.
Tomorrow I'll compile and put up a coulple more... one from a bit further back you can actually see the ball wobbling as it goes up the ramp. I think the ramp is designed to help stablize it leading to the drop but isn't always able to.
Check the edges of the ramp guide, if they are sharp or have nicks just use sand paper to file them down and fine grit sand paper to make them smooth, had this happen on a few pins and that fixed the issue. It also wouldn't hurt if you replaced your shooter tip.
Another reason could be that in a HUO environment a pin is played a certain way and not at random in a commercial setting, meaning that you most likely pull the plunger a certain way either right or left or downward, in any case it can create uneven wear for the plunger. to fix that a washer or two may be needed at any one of the four bolts securing the plunger housing which will adjust the angle ever so slightly of your plunger. Hope this helps
Quoted from DCFAN:
Some of the sparkly red bats were breaking but I don't think it was a high percentage of them. They switched to black bats sometime in 2014.
The red slippers can be re-installed with gel superglue if they come off of the bats. I have been lucky and mine have not come off. I don't believe that there have been many reports of the slippers actually breaking.
Thats odd. If you go to JJP web site it has the slippers pictured installed already
Quoted from bobukcat:
You could try one of the kits users have built like this one: https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/234
thanks, I just needed the ring count. I used Titan on my KISS LE and it was a total disaster after 70 or so games (broken sling shots, flaking post rubbers) and I had to redo the whole pin again and anyone who has a kiss knows what a pain that is. Nice guys at Titan though.
Does anyone have any input on how the play field protectors affect the roll overs?
I love how friendly and helpful everyone in this thread is. Now if I could just get ISIS and the Taliban to play some pinball, World Peace might not be a pipe dream. Looking forward to getting home to start on my RR. Keep the helpful hints and mod suggestions going on here, it helps take my mind off things in-between missions.
Quoted from ZNET:
If another Pinsider has already answered this question, I apologize. The pictured tornado sign was on the prototype games only. It was eliminated from production games because it interfered with some function or site line, as I recall. The three dimensional tornado is an after-market mod produced by Back Alley. Mezel Mods also made a nice tornado mod, which was illuminated. Both tornado mods, especially the Mezel Mods one, are very popular. However, neither are stock items.
During the WOZ design phase, I had the chance to purchase a discontinued tornado mod sign for my ECLE. I hope to install it so that it doesn't interfere with any function or site line. It reminds me of the left spiral ramp sign on Twilight Zone, which was eliminated from the production games.
Got it Thanks a bunch
Quoted from wtatumjr:
I'm not sure how to handle this. About 2 weeks after ownership a large chip exited the Winkie area. I repaired and things seemed to be OK. But now large chips are everywhere. I have the pops set at a low level except at the balloon. I'm interested in if JJP has a decal to cover. 'Not interested in replacing the whole playfield unless populated.
Gonna Call BS on this. You have had the machine for three years and pop bumper rub like in the pics are from NOT cleaning a game. I have seen this on hundreds of pins on route that are not cleaned. To further the BS you have made dozens and dozens of comments in multiple WOZ threads and are well versed in the realm of the WOZ pin, so acting like "Oh poor me, won't somebody help me?" is tantamount to attention seeking or manipulating JJP in giving you a populated play field. What exactly are you hoping to gain here? These pics also seem familiar could you possibly take a picture of the affected area pointing with your finger to the chips? Probably not I would assume. I am by no means attacking you, just pointing out the obvious and trying to figure out your angle.
Quoted from Nokoro:
In defense of wtatumjr, he never said this was after 2 weeks of ownership. He said the first chip near the winkie was after 2 weeks of ownership. He repaired that, but now, at some later point in time, the other chips have formed. That later point in time could have been years later.
In any case, I hope he gets it straightened out.
Normally I would give someone the benefit of a doubt, but he has liked/posted in threads discussing play field issues and threads solely discussing the precut mylar strips. When he makes comments like "I'm interested in if JJP has a decal to cover." Which is misleading and knows full on JJP has them and replies to comments from people that are clearly under the impression the game is two weeks old, then it is obvious some sort of manipulation is at hand to garner attention or something for nothing. I like helping people with pin issues as the majority of my threads and comments will show, but when some one comes on here to manipulate others goodwill then I will call them out or ask them to clarify as others are clearly under the wrong impression. Yes, yes, I will give him some time to reply/explain, but it looks obvious already.
Quoted from GorfFan:
3) NEW UPDATE: The background sound of the characters talking also goes in and out frequently, while the other sounds are always playing fine.
I was really hoping for some advice on these issues since my game is only 3 weeks old. I did submit a support ticket with JJ just to ensure there was a history with these issues.
I have only seen this occur with arcade games after being transported and the Roms were shaken loose, I would try making certain everything is seated properly and all cables are snug, perhaps the audio driver is loose in the PC. Try that, in any case you will be up and running soon at 100%
Quoted from bhwolf:
I did a quick look at the manual and I don't think there are any 12vdc accessory lines, but was considering some minor modifications to quiet the machine when on but not being used. (Did this to my Stern Spike system.). Basically might swap and add fans as necessary, using quieter ones that likely move less air, but adding additional to make up for it. The end result would be same or better cooling with near silent running.
I haven't really planned out anything, but figured one of the first things to look at is how I might power it. Any suggestions? Looks like a 12v line powers the backbox lighting, but haven't looked at the draw yet. Figured I'd ask the brain trust first
^^^^What he said^^^^
Plan on doing this as well.
Quoted from Skyemont:
ADVISE NEEDED: Ok... here is the deal. I can get a used RRWOZ in great shape. Built December, 2015. But to do so, i have to trade these to items. NO CASH!! He wants my TZ (very nice condition) and my 20 anniversary galaga pacman. What should i do? Bad deal for me or great deal for me?
not sure the condition of your TZ, but I see those GAL/PAC arcades pop up often in the arcade forums ranging from 700-1200 all the time if that helps.
Quoted from bhwolf:
Is there an advantage to the GAL/PAC combo machines that makes them better than just a decent MAME arcade? Just wondering, not to hijack the thread here.
If you're torn over it, don't do it -- but normally the difficulty would be over letting the TZ go. Trade the TZ plus cash (depending on the value of the TZ), and tell him to go buy a GAL/PAC with the money -- it shouldn't be too hard to find? Or are they?
They are not hard to find at all, best bang for your buck is to find a broken one and replace components which can be purchased in any gaming forum at a descent price. On an operator standpoint names are frowned upon and do play slightly different than original roms as I have tested both extensively. There is also the headache of scrolling through games to get to the one you want, and with the early 2000 naaco combo board releases their are cool hidden features to achieve and play. To each his own on that matter I guess.
Quoted from Radius118:
Something else I noticed today while poking around this game.
It seems the little mini-monitor behind the crystal ball has a 2gb microSD card in it. Has anyone stuck that thing in their computer to see what's on it? I'd be curious to know if the images could be changed.
HMMMMM? I too would be interested to know if this is at all possible
Quoted from Jakers:
I'm having a really annoying problem with the witch switch. It registers light hits but sometimes (maybe 50%) of the time if it's hit with a hard direct shot it doesn't register. Super annoying on skill shots when you nail her and expect a hurry up but it doesn't register. To top off my frustration, I was battling her the other night, locked my ball, shot the ramp and nailed her right in the middle....the shot didn't register and drained immediately down the center. I just about lost my mind.
The switches work fine in test mode and I've adjusted them twice now and cannot seem to fix this problem. Does anyone have any pro-tips on how to get her registering better?
re flow solder and make sure edges of target are not scrapping against wood or other parts of bracket
Quoted from Chosen_S:
I recently had a brand new switch that tested great in test mode, but in live play it wouldn't register 75% of the time
I did everything to that switch I could have thought of...
I hated to... but I took a very fine file and just barely scuffed it, it must have cleaned some impenetrable oil off or something, but now it works flawlessly
LOL! I wasn't going to say it, but more often than not, that ALWAYS works for me. Last time I mentioned that I nearly got my head chewed off.
A bit off topic but I just have to say, the new Emerald City series is AMAZEBALLS! A dark twist on the OZ realm where GRIM meets Once Upon A Time is the best way to describe it. Anyone else digging the Emerald City series?
Quoted from merccat:
I saw one episode (somewhere after episode one). It looked interesting but didn't hook me. I didn't get the Grimm vibe from it. Maybe I'll have to watch again as I do like Grimm and will be a little sad to see it go after this season.
gotta watch the first episode and the last one was the best. EP 2 is character building episode.
Quoted from Nokoro:
They are 7.5v I think, but I don't know whether they are buffered or not. I bought the game in March 2016. I forget the build date but it was probably only a few months before then. The new GI boards that they are sending me look a bit different than the old ones, like they have an extra mini board attached or something.
those are buffered ones
Quoted from arcadenerd925:
I'm really itching to find out about an eventual swap to the newer "2.0" woz boards (that are the same as hobbit) and what that would cost.
While I have only blown one board in the last 3 years, it would be nice to know what that option entails down the road.
As of right now there is no option to do a switch over, but maybe JJP might create a harness adapter in the future.
Quoted from Nokoro:
So, the new ones I'm getting are buffered, is that right? What does that mean? What does the buffering do? Each of my failed GI boards has intermittently or permanently displayed the wrong color. I just find it weird that they are all going at once, after about 8 months of ownership. Also, why are the GI boards going but the other boards are not?
The buffered ones are the 7.5 volt boards that replace the 5 volt on buffered boards, but if you are replacing the 7.5 boards you maybe right and jump st has a bad batch. It is common though once one goes bad the others are not far behind.
Quoted from Nokoro:
That's a bummer. At least they are still under warranty and have all been in easy to replace spots. Once that one under the castle playfield goes, though, I'm going to be pissed.
Make sure to replace it before warranty goes out, good time to do a cleaning under there too maybe replace rubbers
Quoted from Lermods:
I just spoke with jjp, the boards pictured are original and have an older firmware associated with them v1.1, you can see it in the pic. Replacement all the boards is $800-1000 and to upgrade the firmware would require replacement of the i/o board potentially. Not all boards have failed and it's possible if they haven't by now, they won't, but that's not certain.
Pretty disappointed as I had a trade for my smaug for this woz, which otherwise looks beautiful, but I'm not comfortable taking the risk unless there is a significant discount to compensate for these potential light issues. With my luck, they would fail a week after I got the game.
From all the posts I have read of WOZ owners having to replace their light boards, the consensus of most is that the others are soon to file suit and fail shortly after. Sorry to be Debbie downer, just letting you know what is being iterated here with n the WOZ thread
Quoted from pinballinreno:
Im not sure if WOZ owners are "having to replace" their light boards is a fair assessment.
And this is not the consensus of most. In fact i would call it "Hogwash".
Certainly in a pinball game things break, its part of the fun.
Certainly as new technologies develop there will be improvements and replacements down stream.
JJP has always replaced anything you need with expert help in fairly short order, free of charge during the warranty period. JJP has an extremely generous warranty period of 1 year on electronics!
Stern has only a 30 day warranty period.
If you are having a continuous problem, work with JJP and there will be a resolution. Im confident they will not forget about you down the road as many other companies do.
Also check your wall power, its generally the culprit if things are constantly burning out.
A lot of 2nd hand owners have even received spare parts free of charge after the warranty period had expired!
If you are having trouble after the warranty expires JJP has gone the extra step in offering many customers half price replacement parts to try to help out. This type of service is above and beyond anything the pinball industry has ever offered and makes them a World Class organization in my book.
Some people always want the latest and the greatest for their games, not all are willing to pay for it.
I have a mid production ECLEWOZ and have had my share of difficulties but, in each case everything was sorted out perfectly. The team at JJP is amazing.
I have no problems with my light boards and I think with this Im in the majority.
If I want to get the newest version 2.0 light boards, I will pay for them.
But again this would be just about desire not common sense.
Whoa dude, take a chill pill. I was simply reiterating what people have been talking about concerning there WOZ who had early unbuffered boards and their replacement of them. I have also had many a conversation with WOZ owners at shows with early productions who have had to replace all their light boards, so no "hogwash" is intended. As far as updating to the 2.0 boards it is not possible and I quote from Frank over at JJP "there is not an option to switch to the new 2.0 LEDs…major changes" but maybe in the future a harness adapter/code update may make it possible
Furthermore, I have never said nor implied JJP service is not up to par, so not sure why you would need to take it upon yourself to lecture me on their warranty differences compared to Stern. In fact I will be the first to say that JJP has the best service of any pinball company HANDS DOWN! Jack himself even emailed and called me dealing with my recent woz purchase and his entire staff has been more than accommodating in helping me get my customers machines squared away.
Quoted from Radius118:
There is always a way.. Off the top of my head the following would be needed at a minimum:
All new light boards
The BAG board and a Comms Hub board
Wiring for the above
Driver board? Unknown
Software update to support the new boards? Version 6.10 that has been reported to be installed on the newest games?
That's all I can think of at the moment. The way to find out would be to have a new WoZ 2.0 sitting next to an older WoZ and perform a side by side comparison - along with some probably wire tracing and detective work.
It can *definitely* be done, the question is at what cost?
I feel that JJP should come up with some type of affordable kit to updated these games based on:
1: The plethora of light board issues that some machines have had
2: The fact that JJP will be dealing with light board issues on these machines for years to come
3: As a goodwill gesture towards WoZ purchasers
It would go very far in the community to help cement JJP's reputation for taking care of their customers to make this kit subsidized. AKA, not FREE, but not full pop retail either for those who are out of warranty.
Sure you can do the hardware aspect, but like I said unless JJP decides to do a code update, that is the only way it will happen.
Quoted from Radius118:
The code update is already in the wild. All WoZ games made after 12/15/16 already have the 2.0 lamp board system in them. Which means the code on these machines supports it. So that's a non-issue. It's the hardware and wiring changes that are the issue.
If JJP introduced an update kit for $500 I would be all over it. Or maybe even $750 if I knew that it would reduce the likelihood of lamp board issues on my game by 95%. Granted I am a second owner of a very early game. But I have *already* had to replace one lamp board in the first 2 weeks of owning the game. Fortunately the prior owner included some spares with the game.
Cool! The majority of WOZ owners are before 12/15/16 though, so the market to make additional updates to support a harness would apply to maybe a hundred people or so wanting to do it, the real money maker would be to create code or hardware update to work with older models
Quoted from Radius118:
I think the real money maker - at least for the long term - is the goodwill and positive impression it would make in the community for JJP. Not to say they don't already have a positive impression, but this would certainly add to it.
I mean let's face it. If you are thinking about buying title X from a company who has had issues with taking care of their customers lately versus title Z from JJP who has a great reputation of taking care of their customers - even out of warranty - I know which game I would buy, right?
That's why I do not buy NIB Stern anymore and I will be buying a TH later and most likely be in on a preorder JJP#4
Quoted from merccat:
Thinking about applying some mylar around the flipper buttons to protect the cabinet paint (got a few chips aready from my ring).
Any issues with applying to the cabinet or better solutions?
Clear Button Guard Cabinet Protectors Set should work from pinball life
Is it me or does the invisibles seem like it's always stuck in there and needs super grip to pull out. It definitely does not slide out
You can still get them at Walmart, but they will rip you off, Just got to eBay or amazon to find them.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:
can any of you with the munchkin PF chrome edge protector from modfather chime in on if it has held up/ if you like it?
the cliffy just seems like overkill for me with only the edge by the ramp really the only spot getting nailed.
Well think of it this way, it is a 2 for 1 protector/mod. It looks good installed and is a protector. I had mine installed at factory and the sucker looks like it was supposed to be that way.
Quoted from thunder001:
Can someone tell me how to check to see if the lighting on the throne room is working properly. I ran the led test for all GI lights and it never lights up. Is that the right place to check the throne room lighting on the plastic OZ insert? I noticed last night while playing it never lit up green. Going through the tests I couldn't find the throne room in the list.
Check under flashers not gi
who has a screen shot of their startup resolution stats running 6.11 with 2.0 boards?
Quoted from Pimp77:
Pretty sure it's auto-detect? Check all your cabling and the displays native resolution. Some early ones are different.
Not sure how I could have an early one? Tried to reload code with mountain gamers link, thanks by the way and I am still coming up with low res, see pic. I checked connections and noticed dvi cable has one screw retainer that will not screw in all the way but that should not affect anything, I am just getting a lowered res, any ideas?
Quoted from DeeGor:
1366x768 resolution is what the VGA port is locked to for compatibility reasons with older builds. The DVI port should be set to at least 1920x1080. At least it did with 6.10, which is what I have loaded on mine right now.
Do you get normal (1920x1080) resolution with previous code versions?
Honestly I never noticed as I was only on old code for a few days. I will get it figured out with Victor though
Had to replace monitor IO pcb in the vision pro monitor and now have issues with game not filling screen, I have tried every possible adjustment to no avail. However when I go to load load it fills screen perfectly. Any suggestions will be helpful, thanks.
Quoted from pinball_keefer:
There are adjustments in game settings for changing monitor fit. It defaults to shrunken a bit for 1080p because that was a distinction we could make when we switched from 26" monitors to 27".
Got the shrunken aspect ratio taken care off now if I could just get that stupid HDCP message to stop coming up during gameplay ever so often I am G2G. Any ideas?
Quoted from Gorgar123:
Just got a RR and am having the same issue with the throne room led being out. I went through all the test menus 3 or 4 times and could not find it and I figured I was just missing it and it was buried somewhere. Was about to take the throne out/apart and check the solder connections and/or see if I could get another strip to work there, but after reading this I am realizing it is 12 volts and the strips I have are 6 volts so I guess I will just do the voltage test and then order a new strip if needed. Is the power always on to that connector or do I need to put it in some kind of all led test when I check?
Also, my top left forest pop bumper is not firing, even in the coil test. Any known issues with that one I should look for?
Other than these two minor issues, everything else seems to work perfectly and I am loving the game.
Did you buy NIB? if so call JJP to order a new one under warranty. 24-0001-05 LED Strip Green
Quoted from FlippyD:
I'm working on modding my haunted forest trees and am wondering where I should grab power for the LED eyes? I noticed the wozmods version comes with its own power source. I'm guessing I can just tap into the 7.5v GI/LED via one of the nearby boards. I probably just answered my own question but if anyone has any other advice/experience let me know.
I would not tap/splice into any 7.5V lines. I would however get a 12V splitter and go from the 12V line for trees.
Haven't had that issue probably due to having a play field protector, so there is no direct contact.
Quoted from Jakers:
Recently, I noticed my Gi is different colors. These pictures are taken right after starting a game and with the ball still in the shooter lane. They should be all white GI at this point correct? They all change color correctly during gameplay and attract mode. Any idea whats up with this? Maybe the most recent code caused this?
flip game on and off then go into test menu and do the color code check and let me know if colors are swapped when testing. If it also affects monitor testing of swapped colors it is a code issue currently being worked on. Do you have a most recent build?
Quoted from Pimp77:
My idea for a KILLER WOZ mod (please someone make it, I don't have the time): put a Whirlwind type fan topper on the game and activate it whenever the house spinning motor is running. Would be spectacular! Dress up the topper to look like the WOZ tornado and we'll have a winning mod that would sell thousands.
Hmm Whats something like that worth to possible consumer?
Quoted from dirtbag66:
Okay guys, I'm looking for a little advice. I'm really wanting to put a tornado mod in my machine, but I don't know which one to get. Should I go with the Mezel Mods one that lights up? Or the Back Alley one that if I'm not mistaken comes standard on all Ruby Red machines. Both look great, I'm just wondering if anyone here can give me some pros and cons of each. Or, if you know of a different one, let me know about that one as well.
Thanks in advance!
Well the back alley one is just like the stock ones with n RR versions.
Quoted from GotAQuestion:
I'm going to be replacing all the rubber rings and posts in my game this weekend. Any tips for that or is it basically "go area by area, take everything off, clean and replace, put everything back"?
One thing in particular that sticks out in my mind, any advice for cleaning under the castle playfield? I've cleaned the machine several times while owning it but have always sort of half-assed that area. Would like to give it a more complete cleaning since I'm changing out everything else. Should I just remove it?
My suggestion would be to go RED for RR editions and GREEN for EC editions. The colored rubbers in my opinion make the game pop, then again I am super OCD so when things matchy match I feel better LOL
When you are checking the fuses I assume you have pulled the interlock coin door switch to test that as well? I had one of those go bad on an arcade once, talk about a waste of time diagnosing that one.
Quoted from delt31:
does anyone have the tree eye mod and have the lights inside sometimes turn off? Now I'm down to 1 remaining tree with eyes but sometimes the others come back on. Any suggestions or experience with this happening? I was squeezing the tree and sometimes that will get light back on but has trouble staying on consistently.
re solder the led wires as they have no doubt cracked off. This has happened a couple times to a few of my customers with this WOZ MOD set. I went with leds in eyes myself and have never had an issue.
Quoted from apinballwiz:
This may sound kind of dumb but when you push the black button in the coin door to get into the menus are the playfield lights all suppose to turn white? Kind of annoying because there's a hum coming from the speakers when this happens. I would think that the playfield lights would go out when going into menus. Thank you!
Just reposition you wire looms away from speaker and that should fix hum
Anybody else have this issue? I will get a reject and or ball will get stuck there from munchkin protector. Suggestions?
Quoted from merccat:
1/4” nut driver. Sockets tend to be too fat to fit in that area.
The trees are basically made from something kinda like dog squeaky toy material so it’s flexible but can tear so be careful.
Worst case I think they are reasonably priced if you need new ones.
I have one more set that have the led eyes that flicker with leaves and a glowing led emerald city package for sale check my back bread for pics if interested
Quoted from Gov:
The screws on the pop cap of the left most pop bumper keep coming loose on mine. I have taken the tree off and tightened them back down 3 times in 2 days. I hate to put locktite on there. Any suggestions?
Sounds like you may have a striped nut or screw. Check nut first if so easy to replace if screw then dap a smidge of gorilla glue or wrap a little plumbing tape around screw, don't use locktite
NEVER EVER sign untill verified! I always tell shippers you can help me open or wait longer while I do it myself.
Quoted from LTG:
You can bend the nose of the part holding the diverter closer to the relay so it pulls in easier. And then that whole diverter/relay assembly is on a piece of metal that you can bend the whole shebang back a little to get the proper spacing between the end of the arm and the ramp.
LTG : )
I have done service calls with people having the same issue. 4-5 times it is usually the balls are slightly magnetized, replacing them works most of the time or is a quick way to rule that out.
Some thick double sided tape will work, just don’t peel of the other side. Might as well order your new witch and winkie target while your at it
Quoted from rennervision:
Just joined the club! The thing was a beast to get upstairs and actually at one point fell on my hand. (At 9pm after the swelling started to go down I was finally able to play.)
I had a couple of questions for those that own a Ruby Red. As you can see in the photo below, mine is missing the numbered plaque on the apron. Is this normal?
Also - don't some RRs come with a ruby red shooter rod housing? Or is that a mod?
RR do not have red housing that is after market and the number is taped on your box with invoice slip
Quoted from Soulrider911:
Thanks for the help arcadenerd925 ltg out of curiosity I pulled up the sellers listing... sure enough even in the photos the lights are out. Super frustrating.
So that rules out transporting causing this. it’s gotta be a bad board and he just didn’t disclose it, I’m going to give him the benefit of the doubt, and believe he didn’t notice... but really
If he is a stand up guy then you should ask him to cover the cost of the replacements, if he doesn't you know never to buy from him again and you could warn potential buyers in future.
Get the red smoke one It is the best one and you will not be disappointed and not a single owner here who has it will tell you its not worth it. I had the godfather one and switched. I love the red smoke version! I like the leaved trees with red led eyes and lighted emerald city as well. Don't forget the bottomer witch legs!
Quoted from boomgopinball:
Cap (c126) came loose from Woz5 v1.1 looked at manual as well as visually. Just confirming it's 16v 2200uf.
Found these. Any issues? Figured I'd double the with the experts
ebay.com link » 10pc Topmay Electrolytic Radial Aluminum Capacitor 2200uf 16v 13x21mm 105 C New
Those will work, don’t worry if they seem larger in size when installed no and whatever you do, DO NOT REVERSE THE CAP! Make sure positive and negative are installed correctly
Quoted from bobukcat:
PinStadiums in WOZ are fantastic for improving the lackluster GI and being able to see the ball well, if you play in a dimly lit room your scores will improve with the PS Kit. There are two things to consider with it though since you have the non 2.0 lighting system the GI integration in the P.S. kit is very active. If this is a good thing or a bad thing is a matter of opinion / preference because with it integrated the P.S. lights go out in a lot of modes including all the Crystal Ball Modes, Battle the Witch, when you're in Munchkinland mode and probably another one or two I'm forgetting about (EDIT: in LTG's video you don't see this happening because his has the new 2.0 light kit). This makes for a VERY dramatic effect but it also makes the contrast so much more extreme you may not like it and it may hurt your scores. The good news is if you don't like it, or if you want to play sometimes with it on and sometimes with it off all you have to do is move the GI integration inputs to one of the spotlights and it will stay on whenever the game is on, fairly easy to switch back and forth as long as you don't mind lifting the Playfield. The other thing to consider is the Flasher kit, the UV Glow option looks awesome but WOZ doesn't actually have any flashers other than the one at the Witch so you are limited to having it flash whenever the witch is going up or down, still very cool but not much flexibility there. Of course you can order the kit without the flasher option if you really want to.
I looked at pin stadium options and couldn't figure out what option to get, thanks for the break down, good tutorial.
Quoted from Beez:
I checked the switch it was extremely loose - I tightened it back as you described with the tab however it still isn’t working ...
Try reflowing solder to the wires on switch and make sure there is continuity between the connectors. sometimes they loose contact with each other inside the housing. This normally happens on assembly line where pins are not properly seated in connector housing and barely touches and eventually is shaken loose, yours could have always been like that and eventually worked free.
I have posted this before, but a few members have asked me and for those that have played my machine always ask how my fan is so quiet. Its easy, just move it inside case, just make sure to face it the right direction and make sure the wires do not touch blades. It will fit snuggly, but cut down on the noise A LOT. Hope that helps
Quoted from darkryder:
I'm still searching for a quality shooter rod for my WOZ RR. The colored balls I've seen don't impress me like the gold shooter ring on Hobbit or the Aztec coin on POTC. What are other WOZ owners using for custom shooter rods on their games? I just want to replace the plain black shooter knob with something that blends with the game and isn't tacky. Suggestions?
Why not go for color changing!
Quoted from darkryder:
Thanks for the lead, I'll contact BladeFury directly regarding the color changing shooter. Much better than a plain black knob or painted ball
AAAAAAAAAND here ya go. Cointaker sells em. https://cointaker.com/products/led-lit-shooter-rods
Quoted from darkryder:
Thank you good Sir. Will order one up for the Ruby Red, does that shooter work on JJP games? The description doesn't indicate so.
Its the exact one I got from the fellow pinsider. Just make sure the housing is grounded by moving the silver bare wire ground down to the shooter housing
Quoted from JOESCHALL:
WOZ is now booting. I both jumpered the reset pins as suggested above and then tried the F2 key after hooking up a keyboard via a USB. After hitting F2, first I got a JJP screen, then a request for a password! (ummmm . . .). So I powered the game off; then when I powered the game on the machine booted and all was well. Thanks to Lloyd and others who replied.
I would suggest replacing the battery next time when your machine is booted.
Quoted from apinballwiz:
I've noticed that while my game is in attract mode that at times there will be a screeching type sound coming from the speakers which lasts for about a second. I don't think I've heard it during game play. Sure hope this isn't an indication of a problem brewing - any thoughts on what may be causing this? Thank you for any input!
New one on me, but I still freak out every time I get a match
Quoted from Gotfrogs:
Hello everyone, I hope your weekend is off to a good start. I am completly new to pin ownership and am greatful that I found this thread. My RR WOZ machine shipped today and I can't wait to get it. I just finished reading this entire thread and based on feeback have already ordered my Munchkinland edge protector and am thinking about ordering these accessories from mezelmods. Is there any reason not to order them? Are there better versions of the same type of mod available? I am also considering ordering some additional GI but want to see how the stock lights look before doing so.[quoted image]
Here are some mods I did with mine you might like
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:
I would not go with the light up winkie target. I had heard that they break but went ahead and ordered one and of course mine eventually broke. They offered a small credit since I had it a few months before. Should of listened to Pinside.
Indypinhead sells a solid one I have had since day one on mine with no issues and I have installed them on other 75s and they haven't broke.
Quoted from Gotfrogs:
Sorry for the dumb question but should I be able to control the munchkin flipper throughout the game or do you have to unlock a mode for it? I have yet to be able to trigger it. The machine does move it (puts it in the up position before each new ball) so I know the coil is not broken. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
Also I found this screw inside the cabinet? Are there many locations for thumb screws in the machine? I would like to put it back where it goes.[quoted image]
Screw goes to coin mech or side computer housing
Quoted from Gotfrogs:
You know your stuff! It was missing on the coin mechanism. It is now back where it belongs.
I went to tackel installing my munchkin cliffy and noticed that the munchkin flipper is overheating and has melted the plastic cover. As I stated above, the game toggles the flipper at the start of each ball and at some times during game play but I am never able to trigger it with the game play buttons. Here is a video of what it does (note that I am unable to control the flipper during this entire video but it does changes position on its own at certain points).
I will open a ticket with JJP.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Try reloading the code, it may work out the bug there and check connection that lead to computer, make sure to pull lid off and check inside connections are firmly seated as well. You also need to adjust your witch legs opening from house, your spinning house just needs calibrated as the legs are not fully popping out.
Quoted from adol75:
It doesn’t matter when you bought it, it’s the build date on the back of the pinball that matters. I bought mine nib in march 2018 but it was built a week before they started putting the 2.0 boards, december 15th 2016
Mine came factory direct with 2.0 November 16 2016
Quoted from 2000_Alum:
I have a minor issue that I don’t think I’ve seen in this thread. I have a RR v2.0 boards, sometimes when I start a game the oz lights go out, then as I hit the YBR shots (first the ramp), the yellow light does not rotate from the ramp to the orbit highlighting the next YBR shot, but the noise sounds. The yellow brick road also does not give me credit for the shot.
Almost every time I restart the game, all works fine for as long as ithe game is on. I have 6.61 software and I’ve tried many times looking for loose connections, all seem tight. This seems like a software bug as 3 sets of lights are acting strange. All lights work perfect in attract mode prior to starting the game.
Has anyone else had this happen?
YES! It is a known software bug with 2.0 and it is being worked on. Next update should rectify this issue. Trust me its not you,...........I mean, that's what she said anyway
Is it me or do standards look better than YBR editions? I mean, ya get winged monkey and pay 3k less. If you're a taxi cab driver though this is a must have, I'm betting that ECLE and RR will fetch more in the distant future. Now if the next code update produces a special YBR edition multi ball specific to game, then I might change my mind and be a little jelly, but as it sits now, MEH.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:
Yeah I know, luckily nothing happened to these two machines. I was in such a hurry, had to get them in the basement before my wife came home. Sometimes she doesnt know I buy new pins, and I would like to keep it that way.. she gets upset with new pinball purchases. So when she leaves I smuggle them into the basement, she doesn't see them and hardly goes in the basement.
the cool thing about alien is it comes in two pieces. I doubt the backbox of Woz can be easily removed for easier transport?
I had to take my WOZ head off to get it into my basement. It is actually easy as it only has three wires that goes into head.
Quoted from thanhdlam1985:
Hey guys! I just purchased a brand new WOZ RR 75th anniversary pinball from Michael at pinballs.com, however, i notice everything seemed to be opened already. I've seen several unboxing of the WOZRR and the accessories such as balls, extra parts are all sealed in sections, but mines came opened and all placed in a zip loc bag. It also arrived without the topper. Also, in the unboxing videos of the brand new machine, the playfield suppose to have a protective plastic on it that you have to peel, but mines didn't have that. I'm a little disappointed that I paid for a brand new pinball, but it seems like it was previously opened. Does this happen often that the company would open to test the machine before shipping to their customers or did they send me a floor model and sold it as new? I am new to the pinball community and this is my first pinball. So I'm not sure if this is something that happens often. Please advise and let me know how to tell if my pinball machine is brand new or previously used. Thank you!
First off, You need your topper and manual sent to you no matter what. The second, if the machine was upgraded to the 2.0 system then it would have to be opened
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