(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

7 years ago

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  • Latest reply 7 days ago by fnosm
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9 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (7 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (4 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (2 years ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (2 years ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (2 years ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (2 years ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #11015 Adjustment advice for the monkey Posted by LTG (8 months ago)

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#1056 5 years ago

This may have been mentioned earlier in this thread somewhere but for all new buyers I would STRONGLY suggest you add a Cliffy protector to the edge of the Munchkinland mini playfield. I ordered the whole kit right after buying my WOZ in the fall and held off on doing the difficult ones until it was time for the first really in-depth cleaning. When I went to take my mini PF I noticed that the clear is chipped off on the edge back over the RAI rainbow targets, thankfully it's under a metal ball guide so the ball can't contact it to make it worse and you can't see if when playing but the damage is done! I'm really kicking myself in the ass for not installing it sooner. Removing the mini PF looks daunting but it's not that bad if you follow the instructions in the manual, the only part that gave me trouble was making sure the wires from the spinning house motor stayed down through the hole when manipulating the mini PF into place. I would also recommend you replace the rubber ring on the "OZ" sling up there while you have the mini-PF off if your game has a good number of plays on it.

#1064 5 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Only the Munchkinland one is really needed. The others are pretty optional.

I wasn't going to install the protectors on the rollovers but being the owner of a CV that has a chip out of the clear by one of the rollovers changed my mind. Completely agree about the Munchkinland one.

#1082 5 years ago

Try using a different browser, I don't know what system or browser you have but it's worth a shot. My first attempt to d/l it was really slow and it failed at about 2.1 GB. I restarted it around 10:00 PM and then the speeds were much faster and it finished the d/l in less than an hour.

3 months later
#1557 4 years ago
Quoted from Vexx_182:

well i played with my double door mech a little to see if i could stop my phantom door hits from registering. Didnt do anything major just played with the doors a little and it seemed to work but then i noticed every time the winkie target is down every time i would flip my flippers i was getting points and constantly being told shoot the castle and could hear like a clicking going on. Then i held the ball on my left flipper and it was nonstop shoot the castle yelling at me with tons of clicking sounds. i knew something was wrong and shut the game down immediately. Opened the coin door to smell hot/burnt wires...... i pray to god i didnt burn anything up. Going to have a tech come look at it here in the next few days. Does anyone know what could have cause this to happen?

2 weeks later
#1656 4 years ago
Quoted from ninjabones:

Sorry guys, have to disagree. The rubber red slipper flippers are one of the many truly unique features of the game (especially fitting on the RRWOZ)... gotta love when they click three times before the save-a-ball hurry up. Mine are staying.

I agree - the slippers are what inspired the "Ruby Red" edition after all.

#1669 4 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

One was on AFM next to me and the other on Super Soccer. They don't like to play on the same game with me as I apparently take too long.

I'm guessing we've all heard that one, my wife warns new guests not to play on the same game as me "or you'll never get to play". I'm not really that good and people who care to learn a game or how to play in general will watch but the casual players get bored and bail out.

#1684 4 years ago

My WOZRR has been super-dependable since I got it but I've had two light board related problems in the last two weeks. First the last working one was just before the upper sling GI - I found one of the wires coming from the previous board had broken off at the connector on the sling GI board. I was going to ask for a new cable assembly but just soldered a piece of solid wire into the connector and then soldered the broken wire to that. Two days latter the last working board is the left sling GI. Discovered cold solder joints on the "out" connector of that board, re-flowed them and all is good again. The oddest thing that happened during this is after I put the PF back down and started a game I noticed the left most pop bumper was not firing - turned out the mechanism was hitting the playfield support bracket in the cabinet. I had to manipulate the playfield a bit to get it to clear that bracket - I've never seen that problem mentioned before and I'm wondering if I have something else screwy somewhere with how the playfield is sitting in the cabinet.

#1715 4 years ago

More points, less lights! Is the call out for lights out crystal ball mode.

#1720 4 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

What color is Flipper Frenzy in the Crystal Ball Mode?
I've never had Flipper Frenzy since the last code update!

I think it's white and the four lights are in chase mode when it's ready but it's been a while and the last time I hit it I was completely surprised as I didn't realize I had completed all the other modes.

1 week later
#1785 4 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Does anyone else ever get a ball stuck on the left orbit made switch? It happens when the ball pops out of the bumpers and up the left orbit just enough to go over the switch, then it just sits there. It's happened to me 3 times now. There is no nudging the ball loose either. I actually have to take the glass off or literally tilt the game to the left, causing a tilt obviously. Is there a way to adjust the switch so it doesn't stick up into the play field so far?

I've had that happen maybe twice since I've had it so I haven't thought to address it but I should. Usually bending the arm down so it doesn't stick up so high but is still high enough to reliably register balls will solve these kinds of problems. The switch for Rescue on mine is too stiff and sometimes causes the ball to actually go around the switch and not register, I'm going to work on that later today, with it being on the mini playfield it may be a bitch to get to.

#1797 4 years ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

Yesterday a screw fell into one of the pop bumpers areas and I didn't know it until I turned the game on. A pop bumper keep firing and then I discover the screw and got it out of the machine. Since then the winged monkey won't move especially to go back up to the castle. I assumed something shorted maybe a transistor. Any ideas?

In test mode does it attempt to move at all and can you hear the motor run? Did you have to lift the playfield to get the screw out? If so something may now be jammed against it or something became disconnected during that process.

#1799 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

When you have a non-pinhead over to play some games, how do you describe what to do in WOZ? I love the rules, but they are so complex that I have a hard time describing even short term goals to a newbie. I'm left with wait until you see lock lit and then hit the ball up the ramp; do that three times to start multiball.

I explain the skill shots and tell them to go for the witch hurry up to start. Then I tell them to work on advancing YBR to try to get an extra ball lit and get Dorothy captured along the way, doing these will usually get the locks lit and start multiball. If they are halfway decent I explain the crystal ball modes and when to shoot for it. That's always been more than enough for non pinheads.

#1816 4 years ago
Quoted from agodfrey:

Hunting for my woz. Well saving up to buy one. So while I save I'm looking at mods and protectors ...of course.
On direct print cabs what protectors would you recommend? Felt?
Already clued in on the munchkin Cliffy. Plan on decaling or hopefully painting and clearing it for a cool look.
Going to put in star post lights like taylor and fair balloon led. Anyways..... About cab protectors. Suggestions? Gotta keep that shine shiny!!

It has the Stern style metal ones already installed so I don't think you need cab protectors. I did put the red nylon leg protectors on my RR though.

1 month later
#1974 4 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

I replaced the skinny clear post under the top and bottom post on the slingshots with clear starpost and installed Cointaker's starpost LEDs under them. It cost about $20 and is the best lighting mod for the game I have seen(slightly biased). The lights are tied to the coindoor insert lights and are always on.

Any pictures of this you can share with us?

#1983 4 years ago
Quoted from Vexx_182:

Hey guys im looking for some help finding a part that either is not listed in the manual i'm looking at or im just missing it. The magnet coil that works the drop target retraction mech in my WoZ has overheated and burnt out due to a silly loose connector from the factory and now i need to replace it because its blowing fuses every time it fires to retract the winky down. For the life of me i havent been able to locate a part number for that small magnet coil and i was wondering if anyone may be able to point me in the right direction. Thanks guys!

Page C-26, 23-800 standard coil is the description. Part #23-0003-00.

#2067 4 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Hey all,
Tech question here. My character rollover buttons are up so high that they routinely divert any ball rolling anything other than really fast. I'd like to lower them a bit. It's like having random magnets throughout the playfield.
I noticed that they are only held up by the spring power of the moving part of the leaf spring (forgive me that my tech terms probably aren't accurate). So I though I could lower the button without reducing the sensitivity of the rollover by bending the contact that supports the button toward the other contact. I tested the concept temporarily by holding it down. Seems to work fine.
Can anyone see a major problem flexing this down a little permanently?
Also, thoughts on how to increase sensitivity of the upper playfield standup targets. I can barely activate them with my fingers, but the contacts seem really hard to reach.

I had to adjust all the rollovers on mine as well, they were so stiff they'd create airballs when hit with a flipper shot. Some people suggest shimming the switches down using washers but in my case it would have also needed a longer screw, which I didn't have on hand so I bent the switches back and that definitely helps.

#2078 4 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

just played a quick game and my very first ball i went for the witch skillshot and missed. Next thing i know rainbow is lit and the house/twister is ready. Is there a skillshot to complete Rainbow with one shot?

No but the Glinda target can award it randomly, perhaps you hit it when you missed the witch.

#2109 4 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

I thought the 4 jewels in the center represent progression towards BTWW? Isn't there 8 jewels to collect for SOTR?
As for HOADC, it typically shows horses in bottom left corner, but are you saying it shows yet another different horse if you've successfully collected a set?

Correct, the SOTR progress is only shown during a status or progress display (hold down a flipper) mode as far as I know.

#2125 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

The jewels are on the main display too along with the emeralds. No need to go to a status page. (Unless I'm crazy). Can't verify at the moment.

Yes, they are there but you have to go to status to see which ones you are missing - unless of course you are keeping track in your head.

I had my best game ever yesterday, just had to get the big jackpot during Rescue multiball to get to SOTR. Had all the RESCUE letters lit but then choked and could not hit the shot when it mattered. What a blast!

#2127 4 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

The center compass looking thing tells you what emeralds youve collected towards SWOTR and also tells you what 4 objectives youve completed towards witch battle no need to check anywhere else unless you dont know which emerald is where on the compass.
Also on Rescue Mball do you only need to collect one mega jackpot to collect the emerald or do you need to do it for each letter?

I guess that's my point, I certainly don't know which of the emeralds are where on that compass, I will usually remember which of them I have not collected though.

As for completing Rescue Multiball (have never done it because it's insane!) you have to hit the crystal ball, left orbit, Winkie Drop target / castle VUK, Ramp, right orbit and Throne room three times each (jackpot, double jackpot, triple jackpot) - each of these will turn the respective RESCUE letters flashing Red on the mini-PF. Then you have to hit all the RESCUE targets to light them solid and hit the Search loop to the castle doors saucer combo. You do not want to open the doors and put a ball in that saucer before completing all this as that scores a super jackpot and resets your progress towards the Mega Jackpot! This video explains it well while making it look easy: https://www.twitch.tv/iepinball/v/22079314

#2130 4 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Holey Krikey wtf did you just say!?
I was playing rescue mb last night and noticed the door and some targets beat red. I was trying franticly to get the ball in there, but what you're saying is that if I did I would have got the super jp instead of the mega?
So WOZ SOTR appears to be taking Valinors place as hardest wizard mode to achieve ever! F U keefer!!!

I should have mentioned that the latest version of code removed the ability to keep backhanding the crystal ball shot with two balls cradled, or at least that's what it says in the release notes.

#2152 4 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

If you shoot the CB 3x in a row without making another "major" switch hit you will be forced to play the rest of the ball with No hold flippers. I learned the hard way.


#2214 4 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

LMAO! Same experience here only I have yet to get that satisfaction from melting her. No other game has had me jumping, yelling, lauging and cursing so much. Its a game that doesn't just give itself up to anyone but once you earn it, it changes personalities and just goes to insanity mode.
Soooo.. i seem to have been a little overzealous layely in my bumping and it appears that my wedding ring had put a couple small chips in the cabinet paint near the left flipper button. Has anyone come out with some sort of protector for that area?

I always take my ring off when playing pinball, even my SM with the lollipop rails, but you can get mylar protectors from several sources including Pinball Life (I think).

#2218 4 years ago

I tried to put up a decent score with factory settings yesterday but I think Q from my STTNG game installed a black hole in the TOTO outlane because every shot kept going straight down it and you can only get the TOTO save so many times in a game.

#2224 4 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Can someone help me cross reference a part number for a JJP part? It's the switch for the crystal ball spinner. JJP's part number is 18-3003-00. Looking to get the generic part number so I can order from Pinball Life tonight and have it by this weekend.
Is there a cross reference list for JJP's parts against Bally/Williams?

I've never looked at it but odds are it's the same Cherry switch used in more pinball machines than I can count. The actuator is simple to swap out so don't worry too much about that part of it. http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3528 Lloyd can probably confirm or deny my theory quickly if send him a note.

#2263 4 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

excellent. Some call outs are blatant and obvious, like shoot the crystal ball. Some are subtle and only noticeable as you learn the rules and immerse yourself in gameplay like the OZ call outs in ECMB and rescue. They really are wonderfully done.
What's even better, that i don't see too often mentioned about this pin, is the drama build up of modes and multiballs. Music transitions and subtle sound effects build as you progress deeper and deeper - it's really a fascinating experience and what's been missing for so long in a lot of sterns.

Yes, you get a good mix of "shoot the ramp" / "shoot the throne room" mixed with "What you need is a diploma" and "CHAOS!" type call-outs. The drama build up during melt the witch, especially once the drop target is down and you are on a timer to hit the ramp straight to a shot to the witch is as good as it gets.

I do think the music can be a little repetitive at times but that's true of any game I've played as much as I do WOZ.

#2292 4 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

anybody know a web site that sells the full set?

You could try one of the kits users have built like this one: https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/234

#2300 4 years ago
Quoted from Frli002:

I will never sell it

That's a big spread between Extra Balls!

#2306 4 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Upper pops slingshot rubber snapped off tonight. Anyone know how to get to this to replace?

I'm fairly certain you have to remove the mini Playfield but I could be wrong, the manual has very specific instructions for that process if it is required.

1 week later
#2415 4 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

YBR alternates between the ramp and the orbits.

Yes, if the emerald shaped insert at the ramp is yellow (this is how the game starts) it will advance YBR, after you hit it the two YBR arrows on each side of the orbit are then lit. It alternates back and forth between those shots.

#2417 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

For RR owners - anyones toto toy sometimes interfere with the shooting lane/ball? Had it happen a few times.

Happened all the time when I first got it, the screw that holds toto to the bracket was loose, took the toy off and tightened it up making sure it was straight, problem solved.

#2432 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

i can not figure out how to get the balls out of this machine. Doesn't seem like there is a setting either and the way I used to do it on my older games doesn't work. Anyone know how to get the balls out? Want to replace them.

Tests - Device Test - Ball Trough Test, hitting enter will kick the ball out and it will be auto-launched.

#2442 4 years ago
Quoted from JIM_Z:

I did mine like this.

That looks pretty danged nice but what does it to do the lighting effects when the lower PF is dimmed, such as when you are trying to light rescue / start rescue MB? I've always worried it would ruin the vibe of certain lighting modes.

3 weeks later
#2622 4 years ago
Quoted from clg:

You can always add the shaker and invisiglass if you want. That and the paint/toppers are the only differences game play is the same.

Game play is the same but there are other cosmetic differences. RR includes the castle walls, tornado and Toto mods - these can all be added as well with the possible exception of Toto, I don't know if they sell those or not. I think the castle walls are a pretty big upgrade personally. ECLE has the signed wooden apron and direct print (not decaled) cabinet. Can't go wrong either way but if buying used the price differences may not be as steep.

#2633 4 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Well damn, unfortunately I missed 1quartershort's post - I did not realize the panels were screen printed on the LEs.. Picked up the standard yesterday - trying not to think about the LE features too much! I do want to add the shaker motor eventually - this machine had the upgraded castle walls and tornado ..
Anyway one thing that was NOT upgraded was the witch. The big plastic tube she's in broke off during transport so I've got to either glue or replace that - pretty disappointed but it seems a simple fix. Loving the game! Set it on easy to get a feel .. Yeah way too easy! So many nooks and crannies in this game! Got a pretty good deal overall ... Now time to sell one of the lineup!

Only the ECLE and some of the original standards (very few by most accounts) had direct print cabinets, all the rest including RRs have decaled cabinets. As for the Witch tube, you may want to consider leaving her out of it, there is a mod for this that I believe requires the Well Walls, a quick search should find the thread for it though.

Welcome to the club!

2 weeks later
#2755 4 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Just to add to the collective knowledge base...
I started having an issue with the winged monkey this week. It would pick up the ball and VERY slowly work its way to the castle lock...stopping just short and dropping the ball on the playfield. I thought it was a switch adjustment issue and tried tweaking the top switch...but no dice...in fact the monkey was stopping well short of the switch.
So, further investigation led me to go into the test mode an manually operating the monkey. I noted it approached the playfield going fast but would move toward the castle at a labored paced. After messing around with the switch again...I ended up putting a little machine oil on the threaded shaft that the monkey travels on. I then ran the monkey up and down...and as the oil worked itself into the shaft, the monkey instantly began moving more quickly AND at the same rate of speed up and down.
Problem solved... monkey now locks the ball in the castle again.
I guess it was taking so long to get from the playfield to the castle that the game has code that times the ball lock...and if the ball doesn't register in the castle, it stops the monkey and has it drop the ball.
Anyhow, word to the wise!

I had an issue with the monkey moving slowly and making a lot of noise like it was binding up, basically right out of the box. I used machine oil, which helped for several days then the problem returned. I tried other oils, spray lithium grease and several other things, being conscious of the fact it's going to throw a spray of anything very light whenever it runs. I eventually fixed with with some marine grade grease, applied lightly and evenly along threaded shaft. Haven't had the issue return in about a year now.

#2788 4 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

I was considering putting mirrored blades on my RR but with all the lights and stuff going on in the game I thought they'd get really distracting and disorienting. Maybe that's not the case? I should order the munchkin playfield Cliffy too, before I get too many games on it

I can't stress how important this is, if you can't wait for the Cliffy I'd recommend you put some mylar along that edge ASAP. I've seen at least one owner that has successfully protected theirs that way for a couple of years now and it gets a lot of play.

#2790 4 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

Just ordered one! How long do they take to arrive? My machine comes early next week and I'm definitely going to be playing it. Probably a lot.

That depends on who you ordered it from, what shipping method you used, how far they are from you, etc. If you ordered directly from the source he does get behind sometimes and orders can take much longer.

1 week later
#2829 4 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Looking to join the club, Just made a deal to buy a freshly made RR on Fri. I did ask if there was any updated to the newly made ones. I was told some electronic hardware has been updated on this new batch. light boards,power supply ans some other things... Not sure if its true or not but that's what I was told by distributor.
Do you really need the cliffy on the the mini playfield above lolli targets?

In my opinion it is foolish not to protect that edge of the munchinland miniPF, I was too lazy to install mine right away (too busy enjoying the game) and have paid the price. Lots of shots intended for the ramp but too far right end up bouncing off that edge of the playfield and it leads to the clear and artwork chipping off the edge.

#2849 4 years ago

I've been dealing with an intermittent light board issue for some time, had it narrowed down to the left sling lower GI (17) and thought it was a cable issue that I had fixed with some cable ties. It finally stopped working completely the other day so it was time to really get into it and the attached pictures show the issue. The connector for the input from the previous board was not flush to the board so it eventually broke the solder joints, the fact this board is real close to both the sling and flipper mechs probably acerbated the issue as well. I removed the solder, pushed the connector down to the board and re-soldered it and so far it's working perfectly. This is the 3rd or 4th light board I've had to resolve cold or broken solder joints on but the first one that had the connector improperly installed.

IMG_1153 (resized).JPG

IMG_1151 (resized).JPG

#2871 4 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

I never have that happen. You might want to check the level of your game?

Happens to me a lot except it's usually the right outlane and it's perfectly level with 7 degrees of pitch.

#2882 4 years ago

Your picture is not great, I'd take some better ones before contacting your distributor. Is it possible these are wear marks from shipping? Either way it's not acceptable and you'll have to see what kind of remedy they will provide, please let us know what they say and good luck.

#2887 4 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Happy to report Frank from JJP called me . They are sending out a tech to re decal the head. I appreciate the fast service.they seem to really stand behind their product

WOW! That's great service - Stern should really take note of this.

#2890 4 years ago

Has anyone else had to troubleshoot an Opto problem on WOZ? I fired my RR up a little while ago and the throne room VUK fired about five times on power up. I went into switch test and sure enough the Throne Room VUK opto shows closed even with nothing in there. I raised the PF and found the Opto board it connects to, swapped the connection with one of the ball locks and the problem follows the connection to the board, not the Opto set itself so it appears the problem is on that board or farther up the chain somewhere. I opened a ticket with JJP but thought I might get some insight from other owners who've had a similar issue.

LTG if you can provide any tips I'd appreciate it.

1 month later
#3034 4 years ago

Mine (RR late '15 build) will sometimes let the ball through if I hit the door hard right after they've closed (Start MB is lit/doors open then hit rescue loop to add a lock). It doesn't happen enough for me to have ever really done much to address it though.

#3048 4 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

Agree with this. I have a standard with invisiglass and shaker. If buying new I'd go RR, however on the used market you might strike a better deal going standard. Still happy I got the standard used as the price difference was substantial, and while I like the look of the red, it wasn't worth a few thousand for no gameplay differences. (Unlike Stern, where prem/le have differences in gameplay).

I think the RR / STD decision comes down to how long you plan to keep it. If you don't think you'll have it for more than two years buy the standard. If you plan on keeping it for long time buy the RR (or used ECLE).

#3067 4 years ago
Quoted from tp:

So I'm trying to update to latest code. As of right now I have the
unibutin file
and the woz 606iso version
on my USB stick. Am I ready to update?

Copying them to the stick is not going to do any good, you need them on your PC with empty USB stick installed. Then run unetbootin, specify the iso file and USB stick as destination and it builds the file structure on USB stick. Full instructions with pictures can be found here: http://support.jerseyjackpinball.com:8081/helpdesk/WebObjects/Helpdesk.woa/wa/FaqActions/view?faqId=9

#3068 4 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

I havent dug very far into this.
But something I have noticed the past month or so which just started getting worse:
During multi-ball or anything really "crazy" a good chunk of lights go "rainbow" on me instead of illuminating the correct color.
It either starts or stops at 8 on the YBR (i need to record or better document exactly what lights this affects).
I lifted up the PF last night and reseated the data cables going to the big board that has YBR #8 on it (W2 i think?)
It is certainly happening less now, but still came up a few times when i played it twice after. Since it comes and goes, and mainly happens during increased activity on the PF, I am thinking loose cable in the data chain somewhere.
Just putting this out there in case other folks have experienced this. Will report back as I check more things out this week.

I've had it happen multiple times, and with multiple boards being the starting point. You really have to determine where it starts, which can be difficult if it stops doing it on it's own. So far the problems have been cold / broken solder joints on the connectors and one connector not all the way installed into the board. If the problem does happen the best thing to do is to immediately go into test mode and go through the LED tests until you find the start of the problem in the chain, it will be either the input or output of that board or the output of the board prior to it.

#3073 4 years ago
Quoted from Brian541:

Spotted this on an elaut redemption game,Can be bought for 80 dollars,Possible topper?

I guess, but I think the "official" JJP toppers look a lot better so why not just use one of those?

#3084 4 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

Yep, manually activating the solenoid is the way to do it!
Side note: I don't like the gravity gate thing -- it's a great idea, but I've had balls sneak past it before with the playfield up. Not worth the damage for the few seconds it takes to eject the balls.

Sure seems like using the ball trough test is a lot easier to me, no need to lift playfield and / or deal with the gravity gate at all. You do need to either close the coin door or pull the interlock switch out but that's pretty simple to do.

#3092 4 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Definitely firing, Now I'm not sure if the interlock switch is on or not but either way I don't think it should be firing especially if there is no game in progress.

It's doing that because the balls have shifted and are now blocking the opto for the eject spot, the same will sometimes happen if you lift the playfield with the balls in and then put it back down, it fires until the balls re-seat in the correct spots. That being said the coin door interlock switch should be cutting power to the solenoids. Do you get the big message on your screen that the coin door is open?

#3109 4 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

I just got mine. I noticed the same thing with the Monkey... doesn't work all the time. What was your solution?

Depending on what happens when it doesn't work the most common problem is with the monkey ball sensor, it is supposed to only activate the monkey when the ball has actually been captured. It shows up in the Monkey test mode and you can roll a ball up there to see it activate, the sensor is on the back bottom of the back panel and you may have to move and re-orient it to get it to work more reliably.

Pretty good explanation and video here: http://www.pinplay.com/20/winged_monkey_misbehaving_wont_pick_up_the_ball_or_picks_up_nothing.html

#3126 4 years ago
Quoted from Farmboss:

I was having an issue with the winged monkey not dropping the ball. I fixed that with a piece of tape affixed to the magnet. The balls get magnetized so even if the electromagnet is not energized they still stuck (tape fixed this).
Now that that is fixed, i am questioning how the monkey door is supposed to work. When the ball is dropped behind the door on my game the door immediately opens and the ball rolls out.
Shouldn't the ball stay locked behind the door so then I need to "rescue" it?

I've had mine for just over a year and haven't had a problem with the balls getting magnetic but I've changed them twice in that time frame.

The doors should only release it like that if you're already in a MB, otherwise it should release when starting rescue MB. Check the switches related to the monkey, the ball lock and doors in switch test.

Edit: GAQ beat me to it but if in multiplayer and a ball is already locked it will be released and replaced with the one it just picked up.

#3142 4 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

OK I'll have to get on a step ladder or lower the head to get a closer look. Since the topper wasn't shipped with the game I'm wondering if they may have missed some other parts to it. There's definitely no light leaking out of it and I slid the broken half of the topper into position and it did not light up.

Double check the setting for topper brightness as well, it shouldn't be turned off but it's still something to double check.

#3147 4 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

See Nokoro's post above. The top part of the topper bracket needs to be removed to see the lighting.
Also, I don't believe there is a topper brightness setting.

Game Settings - General - Topper Brightness

pasted_image (resized).png

1 week later
#3184 4 years ago

Decided to see how hard I could make this game, not because I'm killing it or have even gotten to SWOTR but just to see, so I opened the right outlane all the way and basically set every setting as difficult as it can be. HOLY HELL! The Toto outlane when opened all the way up is an incredible black hole that sucks every semi-wild ball straight down it. My buddy and I played a bunch of games and I was shocked at how poorly we were doing. I finally managed a game over 600K but most of them were too embarrassing to mention. I just can't believe how hard this game can be to play when purposely setup to be that way. It's hard to even come up with a controllable way to launch the ball, nevermind a skill shot!

#3187 4 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

I have mine setup this way and I think my highest score is around 600k. I finally killed the witch for the first time tonight and it was amazing!
I definitely think it's more fun to play when it's hard. Crank up the bumpers and kickers and it's hard to keep up with everything. I do let the game hand out a lot of extra balls though. You gotta earn your long games!

The comment I made to my friend was that if the game was always that hard I'd sell it!

1 week later
#3296 4 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I recently had a brand new switch that tested great in test mode, but in live play it wouldn't register 75% of the time
I did everything to that switch I could have thought of...
I hated to... but I took a very fine file and just barely scuffed it, it must have cleaned some impenetrable oil off or something, but now it works flawlessly

Aren't the two switches for the witch micro switches with roller actuators?? I don't think you can file those down unless you are REALLY good.

2 weeks later
#3526 4 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Earlier in the thread I read someone protected the mini munchkin playfield with something other than the Cliffy. I'm a big fan of cliffys, but the difficulty to install on this one has me shying away. I don't like drilling playfields at all. Anyone have any thoughts?

I know one local owner of a ECLE that put Mylar strips on the edge of his and it's still holding up nicely. I don't know what kind of Mylar he used or how many layers but the PF did not appear to be chipped. I think the Cliffy looks good, will protect longer term (just an opinion) and isn't THAT hard to install. Let's face it eventually you'll need to pull that mini PF in order to clean thoroughly underneath it, might as well figure out how to do it now.

1 week later
#3586 4 years ago

Does anyone know of a way to prevent shots to the spinner / crystal ball from getting rejected or ending up in the pop-bumpers? I cannot figure out how a hard shot to that spot can end up in the bumpers but it does it to me occasionally, and usually when I REALLY want that shot!

1 week later
#3630 4 years ago
Quoted from ahdelarge:

So, you hit the door 3 times and then hit the scoop for a letter? Then do this a total of 6 times to spell rescue?
Then what path do you use to get to Somewhere Over the Rainbow after that?

The list of what you have to do to complete Rescue Multiball is so crazy you may not believe it - and you have to do THAT (and a whole boat load of other stuff) before you worry about SWOTR!

2 weeks later
#3694 4 years ago
Quoted from thunder001:

Yes I really do think I have an issue with the lighting already. inserts for the scarecrow are all different colors at the beginning and blinking. The Rainbow letters are all lit and blinking at the very beginning of the game. All the lights definitely are not changes to the color selected. Does this mean I have bad boards already and how to I determine which ones are bad? Thanks for your help with this since I'm new to pinball with little knowledge of what could be causing this issue.

Go into the ordered lamp test and see if the problem begins (flashing or blinking different colors) at one particular board. Might also want to see what the version number says on your boards as the 2.0 system is different than the older ones.

1 month later
#3942 3 years ago
Quoted from dendoc:

See what you have all gone and done? My game has been flawless since NIB, and suddenly - lots of light issues. Had to bypass and turn off both sling GI light boards as there the fault started (19 and 21 I think they were) but now my "fish" board and left exit board are doing this. Does this mean the boards need to be replaced entirely or can it be the data cables? Game is OK in white test, but in red-and during game play- does this.

Those sling GI boards are the only ones I've ever had a problem with and it has to be because they are so close to the flipper mechs. In my case neither board was bad, either time, it was just the cable and connector. I had to re-flow the solder on the connector on one and fix the cable on the other twice. I probably need to just order a new cable for the left one but so far, so good after my repair. If you haven't already make sure all boards are enabled and go into numbered led test, cycle until you're one the first one with a problem and then wiggle the cable on that board AND the two it's connected to and see if you get any changes. Good luck!

4 weeks later
#3992 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Best way to get crystal ball shot is to backhand it with two balls on the left flipper, which you can only do in MB. Otherwise, it is a crap shoot.

But the newest code has a penalty for doing that more than once, right? If I remember correctly the penalty is no-hold flippers the remainder of the ball - that's a pretty serious penalty! I think it's actually the hardest shot on the game because you can get rejects that drain on the left outlane and sometimes even making the shot through the spinner it somehow ends up in the pops and doesn't count - I still haven't figured out exactly how that happens! At least with HOADC you don't have the same likelihood of a drain and may actually be able to pin the ball with the upper flipper then control release it.

#4018 3 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Could anyone measure the hight of RR with the topper installed?
I have an area of my game room that has low ceiling, can't fit a topper that's over 10-12 inches

Mine is sitting at roughly 87 1/2" from the floor but keep in mind that the overall height will depend on how steep you have the game setup (how high the rear levelers are cranked up) - my game is currently set about 7 degrees tilt.

4 weeks later
#4167 3 years ago
Quoted from tiesmasc:

I'm sure those with a more comprehensive understanding of the electronics and coils will chip in if this is wrong... but my understanding is that the EOS switch allows the flipper to change from high power (to flip strong and fast) to low power (for holding it up in place when it doesn't need all that energy flowing through the coil).
If you hold your flippers up a long time the high power to that coil will cause damage (e.g. if you cradle balls during multiball, etc.) as those coils not are intended to take constant high power.
I'd recommend fixing this sooner than later... and playing without any long cradles until fixed. FYI: Game will play fine without addressing this... until damage is done. Then you will have a bigger problem to fix.

Modern (really since early 90s with Solid State Flippers from Data East or Fliptronics from WMS/Bally) games no longer really function that way and the flipper coils no longer have two windings, so it's not as crucial and it will not overheat your coil. However it may start to affect game play at some point. In modern games the flippers are completely controlled by the CPU and they send a high power pulse for some period of time and then back off to a lower power for hold. The EOS is primarily there for timing and, in some instances, so the CPU can send another high power pulse if the flipper gets knocked back down by a ball (Raptor Pit in JP classic example). So I'd take a look at it when you can but wouldn't worry that it's going to cause damage.

2 weeks later
#4230 3 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Question about performing an update. It's probably been answered before but the "search forum" tool here is pretty archaic.
If I perform an update (6.06 to 6.50), will my high scores be reset? The manual says you can do a "Settings Backup/Restore", but it only says it saves your settings , audits, reports, replay info and custom message.
Anyone know if it saves your high scores as well? Thanks!

Yes, your high scores are definitely saved - just use a different USB stick than you use for the update to save and restore your settings, scores, etc.

#4264 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Pinstadium has a really cool looking kit. I believe they said one of the inspirations was WOZ. You can adjust the level of light as well. I haven't bought one, but was thinking about it.
In short, there are plenty of solutions to the GI issue. Don't let that hold you back from getting one of the greatest pins ever made.

I ordered the PinStadium kit for mine with GI and Flasher integration, just waiting patiently for it to ship then I'll be sure to post some before and after pics / videos.

#4287 3 years ago
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

My capture Dorothy magnet does not release the ball unfortunately. I end up having to tilt the game to get the ball off the magnet. Turning off the game doesn't release the ball even. So I guess it may be a magnetized ball? What are the best balls for such a magnetized game as WOZ? Ive read through the where to buy balls thread in the past and there were many options but wondered what WOZ owners were using with good results. Or will all balls eventually magnetize in this game? Hopefully not every 2 months

Just don't buy any that are "super shiny" or "chrome finished", etc. Basic pinballs from PBR have held up very well in mine.

1 week later
#4346 3 years ago
Quoted from psexton:

I need help understanding a call out. It is a male voice (maybe the mayor) yelling what sounds to me like "Shoot that steer with speed", but I do not think that is what he is saying. Any ideas what he is saying?

Shoot that sphere (ball) with speed is one of the hurry-up call-outs.

#4381 3 years ago

I posted a couple videos of the Pin Stadium kit in my WOZ over in the PS thread in case anyone is considering it as a way to improve GI: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-pin-stadium-lights-official-announcement/page/11#post-3979529

#4385 3 years ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

I am going to go look at a WOZ, what issues should I be on the lookout for?

Munchkinland PF edge - does it have a protector on it and / or chipping of the clear / art? Same with the area around the pops. Light board issues, go into ordered LED test and run each through on every color, make sure there's no flickering of the LEDs in attract mode and let it warm up for a while. They can be fine when first started and flake out when they get warmer. Has the power supply been swapped out with the larger L9 inductor (look for a sticker that says L9) on the PC box.

1 month later
#4467 3 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

The bottom part of the playfield seemed really dark to me so I put in two extra spots, I think it helps a lot. I didn't want the entire pf lit and generally prefer accent lighting. I tied them to the same spotlight that lights the house so it should be interactive with the game. I tried white and red and like red better. The red looks really washed out in the pic, much better in person.

Just an FYI, those spots stay on all the time and aren't part of any of the lighting effects.

#4485 3 years ago
Quoted from coz6:

I find that the metal gets bent and you will eventually run out of adjustment room and have to bend the mech back into place every 200 or so plays.

What metal part are you talking about? This doesn't sound normal to me.

#4491 3 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Question about Rescue Multiball:
Is there a way to have the game save your progress from one Castle Multiball to the next? For instance, Emerald City multiball saves which characters you have completed (courage, brains and/or heart) so that you don't have to start over from scratch the next time you get ECMB. Castle MB starts over from scratch with the jackpots you need to get. This is the only emerald I cannot get in my quest for SOTR!

Are you on the latest code? I thought Keefer mentioned in a post a while ago that Rescue Multiball now carried over like ECMB does but I don't remember if it's a setting or not.

Edit: found the post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mega-jackpot-during-woz-rescue-multiball#post-1544583

#4499 3 years ago
Quoted from rai:

What are the Rescue MB rules? I’ve not got there yet.

They're discussed and detailed in the thread I posted the link to above. Short version, shoot everything a ridiculous number of times then manage to hit all the rescue targets (loop no longer spots them) then a all-in-one loop and shot to the castle doors (will be open). I've never really even gotten close, especially since the required shots to the crystal ball are both prone to drain if missed and almost always leads to a CB mode that makes the task of hitting all those aforementioned shots even harder. Oh yeah, the right orbits don't count if you hit them during a ball-save auto-launch either. Piece of cake!

#4526 3 years ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

Right castle door won't open and also getting an alert to check the castle flipper EOS switch. So I guess I need to remove that play field. does anyone have documentation on that process? Also, any advice on what to look for on these 2 issues? Thx

Documentation for removing both mini playfields is in the owner's manual.

#4532 3 years ago
Quoted from tiesmasc:

A few strategies for helping to complete Rescue Multiball (RMB) that I've used are:
1. Build up the number of ball for each RMB so you start with at least 3 preferably 4 or 5
2. Avoid stacking with a crystal ball mode at all costs... to do this I'll typically start a crystal ball mode and then let a ball drain before I start RMB
3. Do have 1 or 2 locks lit for Emerald City Multiball (ECMB) but not all 3... that way you can start RMB... get 3 shots to the ramp (for the 3x jackpot) and then likely be cued up so that 1 more shot will start ECMB stacking on top of RMB... but you save that until you are down to last ball from RMB... to restart it if you can do it quick.
4. Have the glinda target setup for a multiball restart if at all possible (i.e. don't have the last glinda award be that)
5. During RMB get the castle drop target/vuk to triple jackpot as soon as possible. Then the drop target will be down and you can collect letters on the playfield... and send balls up there to get them out of the way.
6. I personally avoid the super jackpots... I do try to collect letters on the castle playfield... but I don't want to reset a shot that only needs one more hit to get the triple jackpot (i'm thinking of the left orbit and crystal balls shots specifically here as I find those the most difficult).
7. Cradle two balls on left flipper and the crystal ball shot is easy to backhand... but only do it 2x in a row or you'll get no hold flippers.
8. Once all letters are lit (blinking or not) trap on the left flipper... and use right flipper only to get ball to castle VUK, collect blinking letters... and then do the orbit / door shot for the award.
Obviously, ball control is critical in all of the above.
All that said and done... it is a bitch to complete but so rewarding when you do.

These are all good strategies but I will say that I've not figured out how to backhand the crystal ball with two balls cradled on the left, it just does not work for me. It's true I have a very tough time getting two cradled on either flipper on my game so I've not had many shots at it. I spent a few hours the last couple nights working on trying to finish Rescue MB and changing the way I'd normally go about playing accordingly. I only needed the U and E after my first run at it one game, had three balls left and thought for sure I'd get there - nope, completely fell apart the 2nd time I got it started and then lost balls trying to run out CB modes before starting it on my next two balls. It is also gets progressively much harder just to get rescue lit in order to start the MB each time, by the third one it takes so many search orbits that it's just repetitive and taxing.

If you want to watch a few knuckleheads try to beat it (and other modes) on 5 ball with lots of extras given out (and likely still fail miserably) chuckwurt is doing his SDTM stream on my game tonight: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/chuckwurt-streaming-with-sdtm-pinball/page/2#post-4063509

1 month later
#4742 3 years ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

one maybe issue I'm having (not sure if it's part of the code). In the destroy the wicked witch mode, sometimes out of the blue it stops letting you hold the flippers. It's like that no hold flipper mode, but it stays like that even when you are out of that mode, until you loose your ball. The witch said something both times, not sure if it's a coincidence "you can't control my ball".
It's happened twice so far. The only reason I don't think it's part of the code is because its so random (first time I hit the ball shot 3 times in a row, second time I think I hit a red shot twice, not in a row) and it stays active even when you are no longer in any modes.

You weren't trapping two on the left flipper and backhanding the Crystal Ball shot over and over, where you? I know the penalty for that during ECMB is no hold flippers until the ball drains, probably true during other MB modes as well.

#4765 3 years ago

Great support from Keith and the JJP team as always, definitely noticed some new clips (Dorothy's "you came back!" when starting TNPLH was one I've never heard before!) and great to have the chase lights when hitting the TOTO shot back as well. This kind of support really makes paying the extra $$ for a JJP machine even easier to justify in the long run.

3 weeks later
#4930 3 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Meh, I dont have it on mine. Yes there is some wear there. I have an alternative idea on how to protect the spot that I am going to try (and will share once complete).

I've seen people use mylar strips to protect it effectively, doesn't have to be the actual Cliffy.

#4932 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Well this is all good news. I have a big ass sheet of mylar sitting around. Id like to see what people are doing. Any pics or links?

I don't have any pics and I've never seen a post about it, might be one way, way back in this thread from original owners before Cliffy was making the protectors though. The one I have personally seen I didn't even notice the mylar at first, they had it placed very well, just over-lapping the top edge of the mini PF on that side.

#4947 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Opinions wanted.
Leave it alone and just play (and replace the whole mini pf at a later date)
Put mylar down in that area and play
Put mylar down and get the cliffy
Other: please specify

I'd put some mylar over it and play it.

#4948 3 years ago
Quoted from rubberducks:

I'm surprised someone hasn't come up with an air ball stopper for the ramp, yet.
A ton of ramp shots aren't made because they jump, and most of the hits to Munchkin pf edge are rebounds from air off the ramp.

I think the shots that end up hitting the Munchkin PF are ones that hit between the R rainbow target and the ramp, the metal ramp protector causes them to shoot up and hit the PF. Not sure if a new ramp protector that extends out closer to the R target is feasible or if it would really help.

#4960 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

As I play this more and more I realize I have no idea how the multiball and jackpot scoring work. I had a bad ass ball 1 last night where I got munchkin, crystal ball, and rescue multball, and then stacked emerald city on top of that. With the lights off, Im never sure exactly what to hit. I usually go for the ramp, witch, and winkie. I heard a lot of "JACKPOT!" "DOUBLE JACKPOT!" "TRIPLE JACKPOT!" and then I actually finally heard a "SUPER JACKPOT!" callout. I look up, Ive only for 300k. WHAT THE HELL!!! I feel like I score better with just 2 modes going...what is the deal here.
5 modes stacked, multiple jackpots, a SUPER jackpot...and I only had 515k by the end of ball 1. I really expected to be in the high 800's at least.
This game make it really hard to score big.

Scoring is strange and at times seems un-balanced. The super jackpot is one you don't really want to score as it resets your progress towards completing Rescue multiball (you have to re-light all Rescue letters) and it only awards less than 10K. The highest scoring games will generally be from big bonuses from Munchkin and Haunted Forest modes that you complete during the stacked MBs. Collecting a good HOADC during MB will also award a lot of bonus points. There's also a munchkin multiplier that kicks in if you start and complete more than one Munchkin mode per ball.

#4962 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Also regarding Glinda re-light. It says "the rubber between the spinner and the bumpers" to re-light glinda. Is there a switch there? What rubber are they talking about? The post? I need to look closer tonight...I never noticed this.

Yes, there is a small ring that is angled toward the Rainbow targets there and a switch behind it that registers like a sling without the kick of course.

#4964 3 years ago
Quoted from Wiggy:

Yesterday my brother's WOZ finally came. Went to his house to help set it up, but boy what an anticlimax that was...

The playfield glass has broken into a million pieces and the left side off the cab and the backbox has broken loose. Probably more damage but thats all we could see. We stopped unpacking when we noticed the damage.
What we think has happend is that the truck must have lift it up and transported it on the "wrong side" (not following the instructions on the box). Leading to too much weight on the outside of the package, causing it to drop crashing into the ground.

OUCH!! That box looks like it was on the deck of the container ship during the voyage! I certainly hope they make it right by you quickly, what a total letdown.

#4967 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

A BONUS of 1m? DAMN! I think my best after ball bonus has been close to 200k......wow.

Yep, on any game I've ever scored close to or over 2M at least one bonus has been 800K+ with the highest just about 1M. It really rewards you for completing Multiple munchkin modes and even more so if that's done during stacked MBs.

1 month later
#5109 3 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Issue with this approach is u will most likely never see half the game modes.

Agreed, if you want a fast, brutal game there are plenty of options and most are a lot cheaper than a WOZ (IM, TNA and F14 immediately come to mind but there are lots of others).

2 weeks later
#5171 3 years ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

I tried and was denied...I bought this direct from Jack as well.

I'm way past one year and so far light boards have been replaced for the cost of shipping, at the moment I have a large number of them out (mostly white won't work) and have a ticket open with them so I guess I'll see.

#5195 3 years ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

So my letter "N" in rainbow has gone a little off color and flakey. Game is 14 months new, has less than 500 plays...weak! New light board is $239...seriously! Or I can send mine in for a replacement one for $139, probably a referb...complete crap. Anyone replaced one of the light cells before or know where to get one? I have felt that JJP takes good care of their customers but feel butt hurt on this one.

Check out this thread and the other one that is linked inside of it. Sounds like it can be done with caveats. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-rgb-smt-green-issue

#5225 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Probably. The newer buffered boards perform well. Some games may have a board go out, and some games don't.
If you rarely lose a board, I wouldn't worry.
If you lose a bunch or some of the big boards. Then I'd consider the 2.0 kit when it comes out.
LTG : )

I'm sitting here with 9 GI boards that won't display white, one of which was just replaced by JJP support about a month ago. I had never really seriously considered the 2.0 kit but depending on what support says for cost to replace these I may have to re-think that. I also noticed then when you submit a support form now one of the drop downs for problem type is WOZ 2.0 LED Kit.

#5231 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

You may just have one in the series going out and it’s impacting the rest. Lookup which is first in line and try bypassing it.
The GI boards are relatively inexpensive compared to the larger boards. Unfortunately, they are what I seem to have trouble with. Replaced 4 for free about a year in. It’s been a year and I have another GI starting to go flaky on me now... I think they are like 20 bucks.
I don’t think I can personally justify the 2.0 kit unless I were to have a large board go.... but I’d totally be willing to beta test ltg ‘s directions

I've had that problem before but that's not the case here (or if it is it is outside the normal troubleshooting steps), the flickering I've resolved a couple times with repairing connectors and solder joints as well as a couple boards.

#5238 3 years ago

FYI the 2.0 kit is now available per Frank at JJP Support, I talked to him a long time today about my various GI board problems and he was very open and helpful. It is on sale for some period for $800 then goes to $1100 but he doesn't know when. If you're interested you might reach out and ask them for the preliminary instructions for the kit install. I'm tempted because I know I'm going to keep the game for a long time and it might be a fun project with other twisted, oops I mean like-minded people over a weekend.

#5241 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

I agree it sounds like a fun project. Hard for me to justify 800 when I’ve only had a few GI boards go out... but also keeping this game for many years to come.

Yeah, $800 is a tough to swallow but $1100 would be a much bigger pill! The install looks fairly straight-forward based on the instructions Frank sent me, I might order the kit and not install it right away just for "insurance".

#5252 3 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

If it’s a manufacturing defect they should provide the kits at cost. If you have a machine with issues, then it really SHOULD be made right by the manufacturer. It stinks having to pay another $800-$1100 because your machine had a faulty design that was recognized and fixed in later machines by JJP. It just doesn’t feel right.

I think it's arguable to say it's a manufacturing defect, I can certainly see both sides. Their only "real" obligation is to honor their warranty, which they can do by replacing boards that fail inside the warranty period. As far as I know, and from my own experience, they've gone above and beyond that often replacing boards for just the cost of shipping outside the warranty period as long as you return the old one(s). $800 it a lot of money but it is nice they are even offering the kit at all, they certainly didn't have to and I'm sure a lot of work went into putting it together and developing the instructions, etc.

#5256 3 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

JJP decided to build state of the art, push the envelope pinball machines.
Their first effort, WOZ, knocked it out of the park. This machine is built well and is the reason machines are no longer being produced with incandescent bulbs. It is also the reason that video screens now come on any new pinball design and even the remakes are coming in color. None of this happened until after WOZ. I say credit where credit is due. There is much new tech in WOZ and to JJP's credit they didn't stop with their first design. When something failed they improved it. 2.0 is the third rev for the WOZ light system. This isn't the industry standard, this is exceptional behavior. We should be applauding not complaining. If you have the 7.5v light system you have a good and stable, not perfect, system that will continue to be supported with spare parts for a very long time to come. There is no reason to change to the 2.0 boards unless this is something that you want to do. How great is it that JJP is making this option available to us. There are lots of parts for the swap, boards, cables, and who knows what else. It is expensive to produce and will be time consuming to support. Not every WOZ owner has the skill and knowledge of LTG. Whose gonna support all us weekend warriors as we wade through this? You know who - JJP. Why am I considering taking on this monumental task? Because JJP has shown that they make good stuff and back it up with excellent service. I hope JJP keeps experimenting and pushing the boundaries. I support and want innovation in pinball and I am willing to pay for it.

A lot of truth in there though I think ColorDMD may deserve the credit for the remakes having colored screens, the bottom line is they chose a driver IC that turned out to be problematic in the long-term. I guess you could say they could have done more due diligence and figured that out ahead of time but shit happens. Especially in this "throw away" world we live in now, very few products are expected to last more than 5-10 years but we'll want our WOZ's going for the rest of our lives and then some.

1 week later
#5287 3 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

I need help w/ my WOZ.
I fired it up for the first time in at least 4 months. On fire-up, the monkey came half way down and stopped. I re-booted....the monkey came down 9/10 of the way and stopped again. I rebooted again, the monkey moved down to it's lowest point, and stopped. I can't get it to go back up where it belongs. What do I need to do?

Go into the tests - Device Tests - Winged Monkey and see what you get when you run those tests. This is covered in the manual page B-14. If it's making a lot of noise and binding up you may need to put some grease on the threaded rod and run it back and forth a few times to spread it around. If it's a switch triggering issues you will see that in the test.

#5288 3 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Confirmed, The red shooter rod and housing were only on the promo picture. There was a guy semi linked to JJP that used to post here (pinchroma) that said he was going to do a run of ruby shooters and housings but he totally flaked and I respect that he didn't take any money but he really had a lot of us waiting for a long time for a big sack o' hot air.

The Chrome Candy set is pretty nice and looks good if you want a red housing and shooter knob, just be sure to put a stronger spring in it.

#5301 3 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Is that their Cherry Red or Fireball?
If you could post a picture or two that would be appreciated.
Anyone use the Modfather RR shooter and housing ? Pics? Comments?
Also not to get too off topic but I see that Chrome Candy has painted leg bolts. Anyone have experience with these and can comment on how well the paint holds up to wrenching?

I believe it's Rockstar Red but could be Cherry Red, I asked which one was the closest match and they sent me the link. They weren't on their site yet at the time. Here are a couple pictures.

20180321_170611 (resized).jpg

20180321_170618 (resized).jpg

20180321_170637 (resized).jpg

#5320 3 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

I finally cracked a million today after owning the game 4 months....not a big deal to most here but I was pumped

I've owned mine for over two years and anything over a million is still a great game, even if it doesn't make the leader board - congrats! I just had one last night where I thought I was just doing okay, lost the ball and have 400K of bonus points!

#5334 3 years ago

I'm still waiting to receive a couple GI replacement boards for two that have definite hardware problems - one stuck on violet, one has the LED out completely. Meanwhile I've been trying to address four others (both sling GIs, one was just replaced, a right return GI and the lower crystal ball GI) that will not display green so white is blue, I thought it was a connector problem because wiggling the power connector on them would temporarily fix them. But after a little while, and its been getting shorter and shorter between, the problem comes back. I removed two of the boards from the bottom of the PF but left them connected and both do the same thing now, I can hold the board firmly by the sides and wiggle the connectors all I want but it's not until I actually flex the board that it starts working properly. This makes me think there is a bad solder joint somewhere that fails when hot and flexing it temporarily resolves it. I have reflowed all the connector pins so I know it's not them. I'm going to order a hot air re-work station and some solder paste and try to reflow the ICs and the actual LED to see if I can fix these.

1 week later
#5361 3 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I'm still waiting to receive a couple GI replacement boards for two that have definite hardware problems - one stuck on violet, one has the LED out completely. Meanwhile I've been trying to address four others (both sling GIs, one was just replaced, a right return GI and the lower crystal ball GI) that will not display green so white is blue, I thought it was a connector problem because wiggling the power connector on them would temporarily fix them. But after a little while, and its been getting shorter and shorter between, the problem comes back. I removed two of the boards from the bottom of the PF but left them connected and both do the same thing now, I can hold the board firmly by the sides and wiggle the connectors all I want but it's not until I actually flex the board that it starts working properly. This makes me think there is a bad solder joint somewhere that fails when hot and flexing it temporarily resolves it. I have reflowed all the connector pins so I know it's not them. I'm going to order a hot air re-work station and some solder paste and try to reflow the ICs and the actual LED to see if I can fix these.

Update on my status with these problems, I installed the two new boards and one of them (Under munchin lower GI) failed after two games. It failed so badly that all lights down the string from it were either on constantly or didn't light at all. The board is always on (even before the LEDs initialize which is unusual) with a purple color so I had to bypass it. I'll call Frank on Monday and hopefully they'll replace that without me having to pay another $17 in shipping! All the other boards that were frequently not displaying white I have reflowed the chip on while adding a little solder paste and so far they are all working perfectly even when the game is left on for many hours. It appears that the same pin on that chip on all these boards does not have enough solder on it, clearly a manufacturing defect where not enough paste was screened onto that pad before the chip is placed and reflowed. I have one more to do but so far I'm four for four on fixing them using this method. My $60 SMD workstation has easily paid for itself at this point.

#5363 3 years ago

amazon.com link »

Works pretty well though it would be nice if the airflow could be set even lower.

#5366 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

I am looking at a Ruby Red that was manufactured in 2015. Do any of the Ruby Reds have the problematic light boards? Thanks very much.

Will almost certainly have the 7.5V light boards which is what I have. Doesn't guarantee you'll have problems by any means but they aren't as solid as the 2.0 system they eventually converted to.

#5377 3 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Does anyone have Pinstadium lights on their WOZ? If so, can u post some pics.

I have them with GI integration and UV Glow flashers on mine and love it, makes the game much better in a dark room. Here are a couple videos I posted and there are some that Scott posted as well. What do you want pictures of?

#5383 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Just a tip, but an easy way to get the crystal ball is during multiball when you have two balls cradled on the left flipper — a quick flip will send one to the crystal ball. It also helps to stack because the crystal ball modes give 2x playfield scoring, so really good if you can strategically time it with a MB and perhaps a Munchkin mode.
Also, beating the wicked witch is one of the greatest feelings in pinball. It is rare but definitely doable. You wouldn’t want it to be too easy.

Funny you say that because I have a better chance of Melting the Witch than making that cradled backhand flip to the Crystal Ball. Not that I get to Melt her often but I have a really hard time getting two balls cradled on the left and when I do I always miss the CB shot.

#5392 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I suppose it depends upon the individual pin, the level you have it set out, and how else you have dialed it in. But, I think most are able to readily backhand the crystal ball shot with two balls cradled. In fact, they added a penalty into the code to prevent people from doing it over and over. If you do it three times in a row without hitting any other switches, you get no hold flippers for the rest of the ball. I find it useful to actually use this techique during battle the wicked witch. I'll get at least two shots on a target by hitting the CB and then go for another switch.

Yeah, never meant to imply that the shot's not doable for most people - it just isn't for me. Then again I'm more of a flail like crazy multiball player, I have a horrible habit of looking at the balls that are up the playfield and subsequently drilling them with a ball from the flippers.

#5400 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

It really depends on what is stacked. Best score I ever got I wasn’t nearly as far along as other scores. So basically you can play for points or play for progress... progress can produce high scores but it’s not guaranteed.

Yeah, Munchkin and Haunted modes during other MBs are key to big bonus points. Without that completing the individual modes won't net you super-high scores. If you can throw in a HOADC multiplier you can really do well.

1 month later
#5484 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Will these be posted somewhere? I would love to read them before deciding whether to purchase the upgrade.
That said, I kind of doubt I will pull the trigger on this. Just reading your description made me start to sweat.

I have them, PM me your e-mail address and I'll send them to you.

#5487 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

PM me your email address and I'll send you them.
LTG : )

Is there an echo in here??

#5510 2 years ago
Quoted from Beez:

Ordered Cliffy’s Full Set protection (minus rollovers and magnets) - got the email today that WOZ is on a truck and heading my way!!! Hopefully I’ll get it before the weekend!

If you don't get the set before the game go buy some mylar and apply strips to the edge of the munchkin mini-pf to protect it until you get the chance to install the cliffy.

1 week later
#5614 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Just Mylar the munchkin playfield edge and play on while you wait for the Cliffys

Yep, I know a owner with an ECLE that has to have thousands if not 10s of thousands of plays on it with only mylar to protect that edge and it is fine, just use more than one layer.

4 weeks later
#5708 2 years ago
Quoted from rennervision:

Had a couple more questions for anyone.
During one ball (in the middle of Emerald City Multiball shortly after updating to 6.61 if that makes any difference), my monitor suddenly went out and all I had was a black screen at that point. I feared a warranty claim was imminent, but I just restarted my machine and all was well with the display. Does anyone else ever experience a glitch like this? I would hate to have this happen again if I have a good game going.
Also - maybe I'm not really understanding Rescue Multiball, but I hit the castle doors three times, they open, I knock the ball inside... and nothing really spectacular happens. My ball just ejects and gameplay resumes as normal. Is there something not registering that my ball made it into the castle? (Even though it ejects?)
EDIT: I think I answered my own question with the second one. I'm assuming the flying monkey has to capture a ball first. Although I'm not sure if I can do it backwards - enter the castle then get the ball captured to start Rescue Multiball.

I'd check the connections on the monitor cable at both ends (the PC and the monitor), have never had anything like that happen in the three years or so I've had mine.

1 week later
#5748 2 years ago

Remember not to connect / disconnect power to the boards when the game is on.

#5773 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

well just ordered a ton of goodies from Back Alley. Got the combo and added the emerald city.
I'm thinking about getting Pin Stadium, I don't have them on any of my machines. Though I think it's an amazing product I have always been concerned that it may detract from the intended presentation of the games, as they have are pretty dramatic effect.

PinStadiums in WOZ are fantastic for improving the lackluster GI and being able to see the ball well, if you play in a dimly lit room your scores will improve with the PS Kit. There are two things to consider with it though since you have the non 2.0 lighting system the GI integration in the P.S. kit is very active. If this is a good thing or a bad thing is a matter of opinion / preference because with it integrated the P.S. lights go out in a lot of modes including all the Crystal Ball Modes, Battle the Witch, when you're in Munchkinland mode and probably another one or two I'm forgetting about (EDIT: in LTG's video you don't see this happening because his has the new 2.0 light kit). This makes for a VERY dramatic effect but it also makes the contrast so much more extreme you may not like it and it may hurt your scores. The good news is if you don't like it, or if you want to play sometimes with it on and sometimes with it off all you have to do is move the GI integration inputs to one of the spotlights and it will stay on whenever the game is on, fairly easy to switch back and forth as long as you don't mind lifting the Playfield. The other thing to consider is the Flasher kit, the UV Glow option looks awesome but WOZ doesn't actually have any flashers other than the one at the Witch so you are limited to having it flash whenever the witch is going up or down, still very cool but not much flexibility there. Of course you can order the kit without the flasher option if you really want to.

2 weeks later
#5866 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Stuck ball exploits are a cheat per tournament rules.
So yes it's a cheat. Sorry.
However since one can cheat at home, just manually get the gem with the glass off.
Drain the ball, put the glass back on and continue the game.
Take a video of your success post on youtube.

Is it really considered a stuck ball if it's sitting behind a drop target like that? If so what are your responsibilities as the player, do you have to try to hit the target to release it, forfeit a ball, or something other? This is not an unheard of situation to be in on WOZ and it can definitely happen without you even trying to do so, I'm sure there are other games that would end up the same (SM or AFM behind the 3 bank target automatically come to mind but there have to be more) so this has to be a somewhat common happenstance.

1 week later
#5891 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

This is a setting that can either be enabled or disabled in the service menus

Yes, and it can be set to only work when the Haunted Mode is lit, always, or never.

#5907 2 years ago
Quoted from BigT:

I have owned WOZ for the past 4 years and this is going to sound stupid....but is there a jackpot? If so how do you get it?

There are multiple awards that might be considered Jackpots, most notably the three items the Wizard awards during Emerald City MB (Diploma, Testimonial and Medal). However the only thing that is actually called Jackpots are awarded during Rescue Dorothy Multiball. You have the six main shots lit (Crystal Ball, Loop through pops, Winkie Drop Target, Ramp, Right Loop and Throne Room) and each award Jackpots (1x, 2x) for the first two shots and then a super Jackpot for the third (.5x Jackpots after the third for each shot). You can also get a Super Jackpot on the Castle mini PF (though in general it's not a good idea) and if you are really, really good you can score the Mega Jackpot after hitting 3x all the lit shots, lighting all the RESCUE targets and then doing a one shot loop to castle doors on the Castle Mini PF. Good luck with that!

There may be Jackpots in SWOTR final wizard mode but I've never gotten there so I don't know.

#5909 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Just curious, but does anyone know what the Mega Jackpot is worth, not that I'll ever get it . . . . ?

I wandered the same thing and actually saw it on a video, it was only like 10K points or something low like that. I couldn't believe that something so nearly impossible to achieve was worth so little.

EDIT: Here's the video I watched, start around 18 minutes in if you want to see it. I believe in the newer code that the RESCUE lights do let you know which targets you've hit but I'm not positive about that. His score for the Mega jackpot was 160K because it was 2xd by the CB mode, so it is actually 80K by itself. Still not many points considering how hard it is to achieve.

#5911 2 years ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Joining the club soon... first JJP, first widebody. Exciting times! It's a stock ECLE w/ 7.5 boards & the Mirco playfield... it only has about 30 plays so I'd like to keep it nice. I'm not going to put enough plays on it to warrant a full cliffy set, but are there any individual must-haves for trouble areas I should pick up?

It's a pain but you HAVE to do something to protect the edge of the Munchkin Playfield unless it already has something. It doesn't matter how much you plan on playing it, one hit to the edge can chip it and take artwork with it. If you don't want to put the cliffy on it at least put a layer or two of mylar on it.

1 week later
#5942 2 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

My RR WOZ states I have a matrix switch #73 not working witch is the winkie target. Basically the target is staying down. I can manually push it up underneath the play field and when i hit the target it retracts so I don't think it is stuck. The coil that causes the winkie target to go down works, but the auto up coil is NOT working when i am in test mode. Any help appreciated. I am attaching pictures so let me know if anything looks out of place. Thanks.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

So the drop target does not raise when you go into coil test? Are all the other coils working properly?

#5944 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yes, if the door switch is pulled out.
You can go up or down in the tests.

I know you can test it, I was asking Monte if I understood his situation correctly and that his up coil is not firing.

#5948 2 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

I went into the single coil testing yesterday and the coil testing did work for the target pulling it down but it did not work for the coil test that brings the target back up. I didnt realize my winkie guard wasnt working until the machine told me that matrix switch 73 was not working (it shows up red in the switch testing). I havent played in a while but my kids play. I believe all the other coils are working because i played yesterday and the only thing that wasnt working was winkie target. Lloyd said to test switch which i will do tonight. Beyond that i guess i will call Jjp. Lloyd said that switch may need adjusting but i am not sure exactly how to do that. Inam a newbie at repairs. Thanks for the help.

If the coil to raise the target isn't working in coil test the problem isn't your switch. The game is telling you the switch isn't working because it hasn't seen it change state in a certain number of games. You'll want to check the wiring to the coil as Lloyd suggested and if possible check it with an ohm meter but you may also have a blown transistor or other problem.

#5952 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Orange circle around the arm/lever on the switch. Yellow circle around the tab on the drop target that closes the switch going down and releases it going up.
LTG : )[quoted image]

It's a good thing you didn't put two yellow circles down there LTG!!

3 weeks later
#6032 2 years ago
Quoted from knobstone:

Found it interesting that Jack announced at Vancouver the sales numbers for his games:
1. Wizard of Oz - 4,000
2. Hobbit - 2,000
3. Dialed In - 1,600

I missed that so thanks for sharing, I'm a bit surprised that DI hasn't outsold TH, I guess the theme + price point must be a factor but they can probably keep cranking out DIs as long as they can sell them since there's no license to renew.

#6041 2 years ago

I'd call them and talk to Frank, see if he can help you out with that.

#6045 2 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

It looks like their shipping and handling fees are fixed....clearly fine if your ordering heavy larger parts, but not on a $10 piece of mylar....

I meant with the shipping fees, I may be wrong but it's worth a shot at least.

1 week later
#6078 2 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

My RRWOZ came with a signed printed manual, bought it new through a distributor, manufacture date December 2016. I also remember reading that the manual was one of the RR perks.

Only after they raised the price $500 and included the printed manual and Invisiglass, both were originally options. I know because mine did not come with the manual and I paid to get the glass.

#6090 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Anything to do? I managed to force it in. But I’m afraid it’s gonna warp the playfield.

I've seen something similar but not as bad happen if you have the game really unleveled, try raising the left front or / and lowering the right front, the cabinet can twist to some degree if the levelers and all out of whack.

#6102 2 years ago

The guys on the Head to Head pinball podcast mention that the WOZRR edition has now sold out (1500 units I believe) and that they are planning a different "Yellow Brick Road" version. No details about trim, or if it will be limited or not so far. It sounds like this is all coming from Wayne in Australia rather than directly from JJP. http://www.head2headpinball.com/

2 weeks later
#6151 2 years ago
Quoted from Ricmaz:

If this has been covered before, forgive me. I’m trying to troubleshoot my Throne Room opto. Machine thinks there is a ball in there all the time. Took both sides off of the bracket and held them right across from one another, and it still thinks there is a something between them. Anything else to do before I replace the opto?
Thanks for any suggestions.

Are there any other switches showing incorrectly open or closed in the switch tests? I would test every other switch that is in the same row and column as that opto.

1 week later
#6181 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I thought all RR editions were supposed to come with the printed manual. Mine did.

Again, they only started including a printed manual when they bumped the price up $500 and also included Invisiglass too. Before that both were options on RRs, this has been covered more than once in this thread.

#6183 2 years ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

Mine had invisiglass , no manual 10-94. Ruby Red.Mine was $8500 , free shipping.Automated.

Different distributors included different options at different prices at different times, still do. There was an official price bump from JJP three years ago that also included these two items as part of the price bump:


1 week later
#6203 2 years ago
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

I tried that last night, tweaking the switch position but nothing changed.

Does the switch register properly in switch test mode? Does the target stay up if you manually raise it?

#6220 2 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Indeed. Already done, thanks.
I can't even tell that that particular board is bypassed--it's hardly visible. Fortunate for me, I guess. :]
Can the light boards be plugged/unplugged while the game is on?

Frank from JJP said it was okay to do so with the data cables but not the power ones.

1 week later
#6287 2 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

I've played around 30 games with my now levelled WOZ, it may sound like pushing open doors, but the change in gameplay is impressive. I'm very happy I did that, and want to thank pin guy for that great levelling app.
I can now swap the ball between the flippers with ease, the throne room is easier to reach, same with the B from Ball on the left side. Also I'm more successful at getting the skill shot in the haunted forest. All together the lower part of the playfield is now much more playable.
My pinball has been installed 4 months ago by a "professional", so I've always assumed they did the setup properly. That was a mistake, lesson learned !

Was it too flat or not leveled side to side?

1 week later
#6308 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Narrow the outlanes, lower the slingshot power a little.

And award extra balls at scoring intervals.

1 week later
#6341 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

With that mod I am guessing you no longer can look at the throne room light (flashing) to know when an award is ready to collect.

yep, that was the problem I saw with it too.

1 week later
#6365 2 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

Anybody have advice on fixing my Wicked Witch? It doesn't raise all the way up.
In test, it appears to bind going up, but I can assist it with a little push with my finger. It just won't do it on its own
I think the metal rod that slides through the motor is the issue. It looks mostly straight. That rod is flimsy and not easy to make perfectly straight.
The issue could also be the motor is weak and if it were stronger it would work past the section where it gets caught. The motor seems strong enough though.
Any advice appreciated.

I'd recommend cleaning the rod to clean off any gunk or dried up grease and then apply a thin layer of lightweight lithium grease, then run her up and down a few times and see if that resolves the issue. The same can happen with the drive shaft for the monkey.

#6369 2 years ago
Quoted from coz6:

Does anybody who has pinstadiums have a good picture of how to connect the GI lights I have tried a few times with the company but I just don't understand - I have them on but they don't interact with the game very well thanks

What light board set are you on, 2.0 or <2.0?

#6371 2 years ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

At least on my ECLE, the lights stay on the entire time due to the way the game was wired and your limited choice of what to tap into. I have 7.5 buffered boards but I was told it's the physical game version itself that limits your ability... mine goes into the Wizard LED and can't go into any of the little GI boards. However, I do have a 2.0 kit I'm installing the next time something goes out, and that should make it more interactive. Happy enough to have the GI boost, make a big difference and I have them set pretty low so it's still dynamic feeling. But yeah, would be cool if the game would go dark sometimes.

Did you try tapping the GI control into the red and black wires on the little GI LED board in the very back right corner of the playfield?

#6373 2 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

This is the video for pinstadium for woz rr with 2.0

That is very similar to my non-2.0 install.

#6375 2 years ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Scott told me that was a bad idea, you'll note the multiple versions of Woz installs on the pin stadium page. Seeing how testy the lighting system is I'm definitely not willing to try haha.

Hmm, must have something to do with the older system. I've not really read through all of those but if Scott said it's a bad idea on your game I certainly believe him.

1 week later
#6382 2 years ago
Quoted from darkryder:

I'm still searching for a quality shooter rod for my WOZ RR. The colored balls I've seen don't impress me like the gold shooter ring on Hobbit or the Aztec coin on POTC. What are other WOZ owners using for custom shooter rods on their games? I just want to replace the plain black shooter knob with something that blends with the game and isn't tacky. Suggestions?

I bought the rod and housing from Chrome Candy because I think it matches the trim better than the one from Modfather but it's still not perfect. I believe the Chrome Candy folks have released a new color that matches better now but I haven't seen it in person so I can't vouch for it. If you do get theirs make sure you put in a much stronger shooter spring with it.

#6402 2 years ago
Quoted from nostra:

Sorry if I overlooked it. Everybody is talking about JJP selling the 2.0 set. But I did not see it anywhere on their page. Is it out of stock?

You probably have to call the service department to order it.

4 weeks later
#6499 2 years ago
Quoted from Wanderers:

Ok fair enough maybe they have lack of staff in due to the bad weather. My game has had 658 plays, I have no problem in sending the part back at all. Just a response at some stage would be good.

Their service team is usually very responsive so your experience is not the norm and may very well be because of the weather or some other factor. You can also try sending LTG a PM as he works for JJP support as well but my guess is you'll want to talk to Frank at JJP for parts replacement.

#6520 2 years ago

Keep in mind that you can change which flipper button controls the upper flippers on WOZ in the settings.

2 weeks later
#6614 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Back in the club!! A long time ago I had a WOZ standard which was sooo much nicer than my other games (players TAF and TZ) that I was intimidated by it. A few years have passed and I am super happy to be back in the club.
One issue I am having right now though is- the game is always spitting out 2 balls into the shooter lane. It is really weird, and makes the game virtually unplayable because as soon as i drain, the ball ends, yet the second ball comes rolling along a second or two later. It’s like the game doesn’t realise the second ball is there at all.
The trough optos seem to be working ok (though i am not sure how to test them beyond just tripping the light beam), and the shooter lane switch is working ok.
Sometimes I can leave the ball in the shooter lane for a while and nothing happens, but as soon as I plunge, a second ball is dropped into the shooter lane. So what gives? Connectors to the trough have been checked, switches / optos are ok in test.

Are you sure you have the correct number of balls in the game?

#6690 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

No idea. Personally I thought they should open out, so no way in h*ll a ball could get stuck in there.

No idea if anything changed can re retrofitted on a different WOZ or if software/dongle would support it.
LTG : )

I thought of that before but figured the edges would get smashed up by the ball too much during MBs, etc.

1 month later
#6869 2 years ago

The yellow flippers and rubbers is a little too much IMO.

#6897 2 years ago

The Munchkin mini playfield is the one you MUST have some kind of edge protection for, trust me the ball WILL hit it and it will chip the edge! If you don't want to put the cliffy on at least get some mylar strips and apply them over the top edge of that playfield or you will be sorry you didn't.

#6917 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Even gorilla tape wont protect it.
Steel is the only way.

I know someone with a very early ECLE that put mylar strips on the edge of the Munchkin mini PF and it has no damage at all after thousands of plays. I recommend the metal cliffy one for sure but if you get a game and can't wait for Cliffy to get you his edge protector it does work better than you'd expect.

#6925 2 years ago

Does anyone know the part number for the GI light pipes used in WOZ? I lost one somehow (I keep expecting it to turn up but so far it has not) and would like to order a replacement but can't find it listed in the parts manual.

#6944 2 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Guys I’m deciding on yellow brick edition the only thing missing is the flying monkey ? Man I like flying monkey

I just don't understand why you'd pay an additional $2K just for the yellow trim and glittery playfield. I really hope it is not for exclusivity or collectability because JJP has proven they will run it again and again if there is cash to be made in doing so. My advice is buy a standard or RR new or go find a used one of any of the previous additions - you'll still have the monkey, the physical ball lock that comes with it and you'll save some significant $$.

#6946 2 years ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Had a minor issue with my WOZ - bad/broken solder joint on the haunted forest skill shot caused several other switches to fail too. Resoldered the wires and all is good again. Thanks to ltg for the helping hand too.
Got my invoice from cliffy this morning, so once he catches up I'll have cliffys for the munchkin playfield edge and castle playfield edge.

The castle playfield should be protected by the walls, does your version not have them installed?

#6991 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I don't know for sure. I suspect something like this. The little white sticker on the square thing is the clue.
LTG : )

That's my guess too, the assets on the SD card are probably encrypted and the micro-controller (or whatever it is) gets flashed with the decryption keys / method.

#7011 2 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

I have never played WOZ, but it sounds like the monkey is really cool. Sounds like the best feature of the game?

It's hard to compare features like this between games but the first time I saw it I was somewhat reminded of the Thing hand in TAF, only better because of the way it goes up and is visibly dropped behind the gates of the castle. I do believe it's inexcusable to remove it and charge more, no matter how much bling you add. Other versions like the RR include all the power coating plus unique toppers, aprons, etc. for less $$.