I'm also happy to be joining the club as of yesterday!
Quoted from Coindropper:
Is your free play card lit, or is it white and the flash makes it look that way?
Just the flash. It’s all stock. Now I need to find mods. Sounds like Back Alley Mods walls are the way to go, but same dilemma with the witch. I really dislike the tube. I was originally going to pick up the Modfather ones with well.
Quoted from harryhoudini:
You know what you did!
Damnit. I was too late. Great deal.
Yep! It does have 5v boards so he priced it low. That was his justification. So, after missing out on a $7200 rr barely played and a nice standard with shaker/invisiglass for $6400, I’m thrilled with getting the ecle.
One thing my wife pointed out was the 2nd “E” on rescue is only displaying the color green. It does turn off and on, but only green. I thought I saw it change color once. The rest of the leds change colors. Is this an easy fix?
I haven’t even lifted the playfield yet as my wife has been playing nonstop since it came home. I thought I’d ask here first before I start messing with it.
Quoted from Pinballomatic:
Put the game in ALL LED test and then walk through the colors one at a time Red Green Blue. See if one of the color LEDs has failed on that E
Thanks. I’ll give that a shot.
Quoted from Nokoro:
If the LED has in fact failed, you will need to get a replacement board to fix it. Replacing the board requires removing the castle playfield which seems intimidating at first but is not too bad. There are step by step instructions in the manual.
You may want to consider a 2.0 lighting upgrade kit which you can get from JJP for $800. If you have the old lighting, the upgrade provides much more reliable boards. It is a much bigger job, about 12-14 hours, but it gives you piece of mind, especially if your older boards are starting to fail.
Thanks. I was hoping to avoid changing to the 2.0 at least for a little while. Looks like it’s out of stock and sold out on JJP site currently anyway. I only see 7.5v boards on their site. If I just replace the one board, does it have to be a 5v board?
Quoted from Rager170:
They are a bit thicker than just a sticker but I wouldnt call them "blades". I feel the description is misleading calling them a thick vinyl.. That they are not..
I was suspicious when i saw them completely rolled up in the box..
Same thoughtsand concerns here. Just got mine and was surprised how thin they are compared to the Aerosmith ones I installed on my cousin's pin. Those were thick material coated with what looked to be polycarbonate similar to arcade control panel overlays. I just hope these WOZ blade decals last when lifting up the playfield.
Looking for touch up paint to fix a tiny scratch on a rail on my ecle. Has anyone had to do this? If so, what paint did you use?
Quoted from Rager170:
Has anyone ever purchased any mods from WOZMODS.com?
I saw this decal package and it seems like a good deal. Just want to make sure the quality is there...
ebay.com link » Complete Wizard Of Oz Pinball Target Decal Set For Woz Standard Le Or 75th Mod
My order just showed up today. They look pretty damn nice.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:
I think I’m giving up trying to sell my old 7.5v boards as a lot. At $250 it doesn’t seem like it’s a bad price point, right? So I’m guessing that it’s something else. Maybe that the one large board that’s not working is the fish shaped one in the middle? I dunno. If there’s still no movement in the next day or so, I’m going to put them on the market here and on EBay individually to make random, single board failures easy to fix and waaaay cheaper than buying a board from JJP or buying a complete used set.
It's not that one of the boards isn't working, but that you have the unbuffered boards. I saw 2 sales of 7.5 buffered boards sell quickly. From what I have read in this thread, the buffered boards are much more reliable than unbuffered. The replacement boards sold individually from JJP appear to be 7.5 buffered.
Quoted from Lawnboy:
Just upgraded my lights so trying to make up some money with the old ones if anyone can use them.
You might want to revise your ad with what version of board, buffered or not, etc. Potential buyers will be asking.
Quoted from Rager170:
No, i really dont think so. What that does is it prevents humms and static noises from entering the speakers. Personally, I dont think thats your issue but it could be. You just never know with these things.
I had an issue like yours and it ended up being that the RCA's for the audio got weird. A little wiggly push in to secure the connection to the CPU metal box fixed it. Then when i lowered the playfield, it happened again. So I went back and again, secured them best I could and its stayed fixed.
This was just my experience but as mentioned, it could be other things. You just never really know.
Mine has this exact same issue. I have to gently lower the playfield and moving the cables along to prevent it.
Quoted from Kkoss24:
Oh and when I pull up the manual on screen it won’t show anything .Am I doing something wrong and is it worth it to pay $100 for the manual that’s as cheap as I’ve seen them .
The manual takes a couple minutes to load. Its a pdf document. This one below loads fine on my ipad. You don’t need the physical copy, its 468 pages.
Quoted from Noma2017:
I hear you. I guess I am interested in JJP just because I only have one pin and they have been great with fixing any Wonka issues. Sounds like WOZ YBR is a definite no. POTC LE is overpriced right now and DI could be boring. I may go with DI if I can get it for a good price and hoping the Pat Lawlor gameplay makes us happy. Thank for the info!
I’d really recommend finding a DI to play first before comitting. Some people love it, some people hate it. I’m not a fan. Wife didn’t care for it either. I have a Woz ECLE. My wife and I love it. We love Wonka too and that will be the next JJP for us. My wife likes Pirates and I thought it was good, but haven’t had much time on it. Find a WOZ RR. Then you’ll have a standard and a widebody - best of both worlds.
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