(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

5 years ago

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  • 517 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 48 minutes ago by SantaSangre
  • Topic is favorited by 236 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (5 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (3 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (7 months ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (7 months ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (7 months ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (7 months ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (5 months ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2542 3 years ago

I did a quick look at the manual and I don't think there are any 12vdc accessory lines, but was considering some minor modifications to quiet the machine when on but not being used. (Did this to my Stern Spike system.). Basically might swap and add fans as necessary, using quieter ones that likely move less air, but adding additional to make up for it. The end result would be same or better cooling with near silent running.

I haven't really planned out anything, but figured one of the first things to look at is how I might power it. Any suggestions? Looks like a 12v line powers the backbox lighting, but haven't looked at the draw yet. Figured I'd ask the brain trust first

#2549 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Yeah, it does generate a good amount of fan noise. I'm thinking its the cpu fan generating the most noise.
If your looking for 12v to run fans for the pc boards, etc... look no further than the PC power supply.

If it's the CPU fan generating most of the noise, that will complicate things. I'm assuming there's not a ton of room to add a larger/quieter cooler (aside from the fact it is in a giant box with lots of space ). Plus, I'd like to be able to read CPU temp so not sure that level of access is easily available. It looks like the fans pull 12v from one pins on the board, but I didn't see a 12v otherwise just looking at the schematic... well, I guess the next step is assess where the noise is coming from

#2556 3 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

If it's the CPU fan generating most of the noise, that will complicate things. I'm assuming there's not a ton of room to add a larger/quieter cooler (aside from the fact it is in a giant box with lots of space ). Plus, I'd like to be able to read CPU temp so not sure that level of access is easily available. It looks like the fans pull 12v from one pins on the board, but I didn't see a 12v otherwise just looking at the schematic... well, I guess the next step is assess where the noise is coming from

OK, this was easy enough and fairly good news -- the bulk of the fan noise is the fan that pulls air out of the CPU chassis/case, not the CPU fan.

Clearly, that fan is designed to move a lot of air, pulling air in from the front and expelling from the chassis. I think a mod here would be pretty simple: add small fans to help intake, and get a quieter fan to expel the air. Fans optionally could be added to help expel air from the cabinet. Another idea would be to cut a hole in the top of the chassis cover, but I don't like that idea as much as it would need to be protected from falling debris.

#2559 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

I had an HP PC once that was nearly silent. What they did was use a massive fan that ran at a much lower RPM with a funnel/cone attached to the actual air input it was sucking from that was about half the size of the fan.
I figure that way they probably got a similar volume of air movement from the far lower RPM (thereby quieter) fan.

Yep, the larger fans can move a massive amount of air compared to the smaller ones. In the stern spike systems, there's a tiny 40mm fan in the power supply that moves virtually no air compared to a larger 80-120mm fan. It's incredibly annoying.

I built an enclosed cabinet for all my home theater equipment that also has an xbox, dvr, and lots of other gear in there -- there are about 6 120mm Noctua fans used to draw air in/out. A bit overkill, but the temp stays pretty close to room temp in there with everything on. The best part is, it's virtually silent. Those fans don't move much air relative to other 120mm fans, but if you have the space, why not go big. The WOZ PC case is aluminum, so that would help quite a bit with heat dissipation.

I'll pull the fan when I get some time and see what the specs are.

#2563 3 years ago
Quoted from rubberducks:

Do post the specs of the exhaust fan on the main aluminium housing.
I've been putting off replacing mine. It's an absolute screamer.
Given the amount it varies in speed, I'm assuming it's PWM controlled by the PC or a thermometer.

Interesting -- I hadn't noticed it changing speed at all -- but then, I've only had the machine a week and in pretty low temps all things considered.

#2574 3 years ago
Quoted from sillyoldelf:

Also cliffy protectors are a must for rainbow target area and some of the kick outs.

I've seen this said a few times -- is the ball getting air born and dinging the upper playfield? Just curious "why" -- haven't seen anything there yet.

Quoted from 27dnast:

I wouldn't worry about the play field protector... just call JJP and buy the mylar kit (which I believe is free for original owners?). It was easy to install

Agree. Without a playfield protector, the field will get dimples. But, for HUO, no big deal IMHO, and maybe it's my imagination but it does feel different/worse playing with one on the game. I don't like playfield imperfections, but have just grown to accept that a playfield will wear over time. Regular cleaning, period new balls ... not really worth sweating it.

#2584 3 years ago

Here's the fan on my WOZ. It's a Jamicon JF0825S1M, I can't seem to post a direct link to the Jamicon product page, but essentially it's an 80mm (25mm depth), 32CFM, 2500RPM, ~28dBA. 12v, 1.8 watts.

Note: on my WoZ, I have only 2 fans: CPU and this case fan. They must've switched power supplies at some point.

I'm a little surprised because stats wise, I subjectively thought the fan was significantly louder than 28dB, and the rated airflow of 32CFM is decent but not crazy. (In other words, easy to find a replacement.)

I think swapping it with a Noctua or Maglev fan would give very close or equal performance and be much quieter. Looking over the cabinet, there are two rear vent holes that are fairly large -- I think putting some 60mm or possibly 80mm (need to measure) near silent fans there would be good, too, or possibly at the top of the backbox, to help draw air through. Another option is putting fans (again, slow, near silent ones) at the front of the PC cab (inside the case itself, plenty of room) to help pull air into the PC case. Lots of options.

Not sure if I'll do this yet, next step for me is review the 12v lines to see what I can tap into.

wozfan (resized).jpg

#2586 3 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

My Winkie target is down for the count and my game is only 5 weeks old. The target has not popped up for a week, so it's stuck in the down position. There aren't any other errors with the game that are relevant to this issue.
I'm brand new to pin ownership and feel over whelmed since just opening the play field is intimidating. Is there a kind soul out there who can give me specific instructions on what to do?
I've filed a support ticket with JJ, and already got an auto email reply saying they got my support request.

This one is probably easy, happened on mine. There's a switch on the bottom of the target that detects whether the winkie is up or down. When down, a little tab on the target presses down on the switch. Most likely, you'll just need to bend switch leaf up a bit so the target pushes on it a bit more. Alternatively, it could be a bad switch or wire worked loose. Go into the test for coils, and find the winkie target reset (up) test, and see if that resets it.

The very first time you open a playfield is pretty intimidating, but it's easy and, get used to it. Despite having a little flap to protect the balls in the trough, remove them. I wonder if there's a video of lifting the playfield as that's the easiest place to start? Try to keep the playfield straight as it's easy for things to catch on the sides...

#2593 3 years ago
Quoted from rubberducks:

Thanks. As expected then ... 80mm 12V ... but what is feeding it and is it PWM or just a straight 12V supply?
Also, LOL at that 28dBA rating ... I can hear it fairly loudly from another room 7m away, with the pf down and glass on.
If you want to spend serious money, then get a Sanyo Denki, but otherwise Noctua or Scythe Gentle Typhoon (if they do them in 80mm) are more than good enough.

Looking at the schematics it appears to be 12v shared with a number of other components, no speed variability. The fan noise is consistent on my machine even at startup. Honestly, I'm glad it is at least consistent, the variability of my stern made it more annoying.

#2605 3 years ago

I can't read that pic but looks like the right screen (I've only had my WOZ a few days and used to other machines ... this is wonderful compared to other machines though!). Anyway, with the glass off and playfield down, go into that test screen and hit some switches on the machine. You'll see them light up in the matrix. It looks like that Winkie target is red -- I'm not familiar enough with JJP machines to know if that means it is stuck on, or just hasn't been triggered in a while.

To manually drop the target, just push it on the playfield. To manually raise it, just push on it from underneath the playfield. It is tricky in this case because the playfield needs to be up, so harder to trigger/see the screen.

1 week later
#2649 3 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Financially it sounds like an ok deal. About even. WOZ > TZ and Pacman IMO.

I agree, sounds about right depending on exact condition of your TZ, might even be a great deal. Recently sold my TZ for a WOZ, no regrets. Others would take the TZ.

#2654 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Bad deal for you.
Its much easier to find a lower cost WOZ that it is to find a TZ in really good shape.

True mainly because WOZ is still coming off the line. But not necessarily a bad deal. Really depends on the fair market value of the TZ.

#2661 3 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

not sure the condition of your TZ, but I see those GAL/PAC arcades pop up often in the arcade forums ranging from 700-1200 all the time if that helps.

Is there an advantage to the GAL/PAC combo machines that makes them better than just a decent MAME arcade? Just wondering, not to hijack the thread here.

If you're torn over it, don't do it -- but normally the difficulty would be over letting the TZ go. Trade the TZ plus cash (depending on the value of the TZ), and tell him to go buy a GAL/PAC with the money -- it shouldn't be too hard to find? Or are they?

#2707 3 years ago
Quoted from bearsfan27:

I have been waiting to update until the final version comes out. Does anyone know if 6.06 is going to be the final update?

Any particular reason to wait? I went from 1.x to 6.06, really didn't take long.

#2729 2 years ago
Quoted from sc204:

I have an ECLE that had the 7.5 V boards. After replacing a bunch of boards over a period of over 1 year with the buffered boards (which JJP did for free), I finally gave up and paid for an entire set to replace. (still had to return the old ones) Not happy that I had to pay for them but I have not had a light board lock up since.
The game was almost not playable in the winter months when the heat was on, even despte using the Wizards Mist and Shine which did help a little.

What happens when the boards fail? LEDs go out? Game locks up?

#2781 2 years ago

Anyone using art blades or side mirrors? I'm not a huge fan of the Gameblades available. I think green or red mirrors would work well, but I think they'd scratch easily as the playfield is really tight compared to my other machines. If you have anything installed, post some pics!

#2814 2 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

Also noticing my game didn't come with the numbered apron label... unless that's not a thing anymore either. Bummer but probably an easy fix.

I may be wrong, but didn't they originally do RR as a LE (numbered) but then removed the restriction making the rest unnumbered?

#2817 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

That would be interesting but I have not heard anything like that. I do believe though that the first 1000 standards were numbered and of course the ECLE's are strictly numbered.

Found where I read it -- not that this is definitive or anything, but saw it here:


Page 4 -- the RR was 'originally limited to 1500 but then made unlimited.' Not sure that means they've run out of numbered units or even if that's accurate...

#2831 2 years ago
Quoted from agodfrey:

Once and for all for the love of all that is good and holy yes yes yes you need the Cliffy unless you want to spend $150 to get a new mini pf and THEN put the Cliffy on a new one.
I had my game maybe 4 weeks. I was the second owner but the first guy didn't play as obsessively as I was. He put 500 games on in 3 years. I did it in a month....hey I was excited for the game and streamed it a lot.
Either way it went from perfectly fine to this. There is more damage but you get the idea.
So now I have a Cliffy AND the Mod Father one and I'll probably need to get a new pf...well not NEED but you can still see the damage and you know how collectors are.
The danger is the damage moves into the ball path then you have to do something....

I've had my Cliffys on order for some time now ... getting anxious each time an airball smacks that playfield ... do you remove the mini playfield to install?

#2834 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Put some Velcro on the edge until the cliffy comes. The velcro has enough of a spongy quality to protect the edge for a while.

Good idea!

Quoted from Nokoro:

Yes. There are instructions on how to remove it in the manual. And there are instructions on how to install the cliffy on cliffy's site.

Thanks! I see it in the manual and I'll check out the Cliffy site.

1 week later
#2855 2 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I just installed the blades from TILT graphics and absolutely love the look it gives to the playfield.

That does look nice! I might have to try that. I assume you had a buddy help with the playfield lift out to install? The WOZ playfield looks like this would be too heavy to do on my own. My only concern is my playfield is really tight -- at least compared to my sterns. Worried that vinyl blades would tear easily.

Also saw your post on the munchkin cliffy with the ball hitting the edge -- I *think* that might be what is happening on mine. I haven't looked at it too closely but since installing last week, I've noticed a lot of auto-plunges are getting bricked/interfered with.

#2860 2 years ago

How do you remove the witch's tube? I removed the two nuts on the metal bracket on either side of the tube. Searching the forum, someone says to remove 2 screws under the playfield, but wasn't sure which ones. I see two under the playfield that I think match the posts I removed the nuts from and securing a bracket, but it didn't seem like that would free it up.

Anyone have luck replacing that 1 1/4" rubber behind the witch without removing the upper playfield?


#2864 2 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

How do you remove the witch's tube? I removed the two nuts on the metal bracket on either side of the tube. Searching the forum, someone says to remove 2 screws under the playfield, but wasn't sure which ones. I see two under the playfield that I think match the posts I removed the nuts from and securing a bracket, but it didn't seem like that would free it up.
Anyone have luck replacing that 1 1/4" rubber behind the witch without removing the upper playfield?

Answered my own question. Yeah, it is those two screws. Now it makes sense: remove the screws, that allows the metal plate to slide out, which then frees the plastic tube. For whatever reason I was thinking the plastic tube was screwed in.

Also, I had no problem replacing that 1 1/4 rubber once the tube was removed and removing the accessible nuts. You have to bend the plastic as there are some hard to reach nuts (without removing the upper playfield) but only a little clearance was needed.

#2873 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Would you guys mind taking a quick look at your throne room and letting me know whether the LEDs are squarely placed under the wizard or if they are somewhat to the rear of it. My LEDs seem to have slipped out a tad, and I sometimes have to push them back in a bit. I'm wondering how they are supposed to be positioned and held down. Here are some picks of mine after I pushed them back a bit but not fully.

Mine seem to be lined up squarely, but I can look more closely when I take the glass off. I'm wondering if it's just the basic adhesive backing has come loose, and not strong enough to keep it in place? Maybe a touch of double sided tape or glue to more securely hold it in place?

1 month later
#3047 2 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

In my opinion the standard is overpriced at 8500 as is the RR at 9500. But since you are going to be overpaying anyway to buy a NIB WOZ you might as well improve the value of your purchase by getting the 75th Anniversary Ruby Red machine.
The price difference between the RR & the STD versus the feature difference makes the RR a good buy. It looks better, has more toys/mods, better glass, shaker motor and printed manual. If you bought a standard and added the extras you would be very close to a RR price wise but would not have the great red finish on the armour and rails. Glass = 300, Manual = 100, Shaker Motor = 100+ etc...
BTW the printed manual has been very useful in my experience. I bought this separately as it didn't come with my RR. Was it pricey? Yes. Has it been worth it? Absolutely.
At 9500, closer to 10,000 when you add shipping & tax this is a big investment. It has been my experience that the support from JJP has been consistently superb. JJP is here to stay and they are committed to making you a happy and repeat customer. Buy with confidence.

Agree with this. I have a standard with invisiglass and shaker. If buying new I'd go RR, however on the used market you might strike a better deal going standard. Still happy I got the standard used as the price difference was substantial, and while I like the look of the red, it wasn't worth a few thousand for no gameplay differences. (Unlike Stern, where prem/le have differences in gameplay).

#3050 2 years ago

This might be obvious when I stand over the machine -- how hard is it to remove the trees from the pops? I have some mylar I'd like to put down in that area and I think removing the ramps / trees will make the job much easier.

#3054 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

If all you want is to take off the actual trees, it's 2 nuts then lift them off the pegs.

Thanks! Can't get much easier than that.

#3061 2 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Let us know how this goes, I still need to do that.

Ok! All very easy. Took them off from underneath per Devo above. 2 screws each. Removed wire ramp, plenty of work room. Mylar went down very easy.

BTW, really impressed with JJPs support. I'm the second owner so no warranty (plus it is 2 years old), but have been great to deal with. Their Mylar kit is great, particularly for the pop area as it would've been a pain to cut a piece to fit nicely.

#3062 2 years ago
Quoted from tp:

I'm in!! Nib standard 836/1000...invisiglass and shaker. She's a beauty. What mods are a must?

Cliffy munchkinkand protector, plus state fair lit balloon. Tons of others to suit taste, I like the lit Winkie drop and red smoke witch mods.

#3083 2 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Pull the playfield up and back so that the supports are resting where the lock down bar normally is. Find the solenoid that pops the ball into the trough on the right side. Manually push up the solenoid to eject the ball one at a time. If your trough has a gravity gate so that the balls would not pop out when fully upright, then you have to hold that open with your other hand. Or follow what the others have said with finding the solenoid in test mode and activating it one pop at a time.

Yep, manually activating the solenoid is the way to do it!

Side note: I don't like the gravity gate thing -- it's a great idea, but I've had balls sneak past it before with the playfield up. Not worth the damage for the few seconds it takes to eject the balls.

#3086 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Sure seems like using the ball trough test is a lot easier to me, no need to lift playfield and / or deal with the gravity gate at all. You do need to either close the coin door or pull the interlock switch out but that's pretty simple to do.

I guess it just depends on what you're used to. I'm usually lifting the playfield when the machine is off, so would need to turn it on to eject the balls using the test.

Quoted from Pimp77:

Pull the glass, open the coin door, and manually eject the balls one by one. No need to lift the playfield.

Well, I usually only remove the balls when I'm lifting the playfield. But you're right, no need to lift it if that's all you're doing. If I'm lifting the playfield anyway, what I do is set the playfield on the first bumpers, eject 3 manually with my left hand and catch them with my right hand in the shooter lane, as they roll towards the top of the pf. Drop 'em in my pingulp, and catch the rest.

#3089 2 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

When the coin door is open and the playfield is up my WOZ likes to try to eject a ball. Thank god for the gravity gate. Anyone else notice this? Is this a setting that I can change?

Yikes, that shouldn't happen if the door is open as it should cut power to the coils. A e you sure it's firing and not just the balls shifting?

4 weeks later
#3363 2 years ago
Quoted from Radius118:

Nice... Have fun installing.. There is a lot of stuff to disassemble to get the full set installed.

While at it, might want to consider Mylar in the pops, and possibly other areas. JJP might be installing them now, I'm not sure, but they have precut pages for the sensitive spots. Much easier to do when half disassembled for the Cliffys.

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