(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by falcon950
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Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (10 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (7 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (5 years ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (5 years ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (5 years ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (5 years ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (4 years ago)

Post #11015 Adjustment advice for the monkey Posted by LTG (3 years ago)

Post #12537 7.03 Code Release Posted by bobukcat (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#9284 4 years ago

Hello,

I'm considering to purchase a Woz standard but from a far away person, so i can't see it by myself.
It's a Rev 1.1 7.5V. Currently acting correctly except when one cable is moved. If it occurs, you get random blinking on certain colors.
The other issue is the monkey. The guy showed me that motor was acting correctly but told me that he did not have the correct allen key to fix the issue.
Can someone explain me potential issues on the monkey and possible pitfalls ?
I don't have any trust issue with him, so no comments on this, that's really to find what is easily solvable and what is risky.
Any specific wear i shall look after ?

Thanks to all.

#9287 4 years ago

Thanks,
That was also my conclusion.
As long as the motor is turning in both direction, that seems to be a fixable situation.

If some experts would have some time to check the picture, please find a drive link.
Thanks for your help!

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=13pVnRWmSOACtCa8xjxDNd-anpBj-D5yz

#9292 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

Can you elaborate on what the issue is with the monkey ? The classics are monkey not stopping where it should or not grabbing the ball. Both are easy fixes.
Regarding the lights, there is nothing that can’t be fixed, some people sell these boards for cheap and worst case (or best actually) you can do a 2.0 upgrade that’s a permanent fix for 800$
So in the end it’s all about how much he wants for it

I don't know about the monkey. It seems it's not moving at all, at least due to this lack of link between monkey and rod. There is a video in the drive folder.
About rev 1.1, has some special issue, more prone to fail? And about playfield, are there some specific part that are prone to damage?

#9295 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

Yes rev 1.1 lights are more prone to fail although it’s very random. Some people have no issues while others like me got a bunch of failures, enough at least to do a 2.0 upgrade for 800$ (and 15 hours of work that I actually enjoyed). Other option is to buy a set of replacement lights from someone who did the 2.0 upgrade. I sold my set for 250$ so merely the price of one board (for 10 boards and 30 small led boards)
Regarding the playfield, the top left of the munchkin playfield is a place that usually chips, the 2 VUK holes (to the castle and crystal ball) and the throne room can chip.

Thanks, I did not see chiping at these places.
Seems that for a bit less than 6k, it's a good deal, right?

#9306 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

6k is a very good deal, I don’t think I ever saw one sell for that cheap.

Thanks for advices of all people of the topic.
I've accepted the deal.
Now is waiting time, and also finding where I'll find a place to put it. (was in the momentum of selling to have more space in the game room...failed.. Again..)

If someone has an exemple of tubing that would fit (diameter in and out, length), that would be helpful

1 week later
#9386 4 years ago

Hi,
I'm awaiting my woz pro, the one with the issue on the monkey. The motor works uy the monkey moves freely.
From what I understood the issue is linked to a lack of transmission between the rotating rod and the monkey part.
Does anyone have an example of good way to fix it?
There was a mention of tubing used by railroad modelers but I would be happy to have more precise info

Thanks

#9388 4 years ago

I don't have yet the pinball but it seems not related to switches
I have a video here :

https://drive.google.com/file/d/16T9A-YVs9XasZ3XEzzsqHREPHpr8Wi9J/view?usp=drivesdk

#9390 4 years ago

As said, I'm awaiting the machine, it will be shipped this week to me

2 weeks later
#9480 4 years ago

Hello,
I finally got a nice woz in my collection
I fixed the monkey by tightening the screws on the black plastic thing that seems not so robust.
The machine is a pro, done on June 18th 2014
What are the things I need to look at? I red that some had issues with undersized power supply or fuse?
Is there any tutorial to remove the buzzing noise produced by backbox speakers?

Anyway, I'm in love with it!!

#9482 4 years ago
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#9483 4 years ago

Was too happy. Monkey did not catch this one. It moved only half of the way then back.
Any solid fix for this?

#9486 4 years ago

Merci !

Swicths are OK, but I think that when the monkey takes too long to go down, it cancels the move. As this black thing (how is it called?) does not transmit the torque completely, it is for me the main issue.

Edit : had a nice game. 1.7M
Still do not understand what I need to do

#9491 4 years ago

I've put lithium grease. It goes well but there is really not that much grip of the plastic black thing on the rod, causing not enough turn. Monkey flies well without a noise.
I would say that it works 3 times out of 5, mostly when the monkey starts moving right at the activation. Sometime, it starts moving 3-4 seconds after the activation, then I think it's considered by the system as a failure.
That would explain the timer in the monkey debug menu

#9496 4 years ago

Clear vinyl tubing?
That something I would be happy to see in picture.
That replaces the black plastic thing?
Any reference or suggestion for diy?

#9498 4 years ago

OK, no one has a reference, diameter..
Anything?

Thanks

#9506 4 years ago

THANKS a lot for the effort.
That's was i was planning. tube and zip !

#9508 4 years ago

the purpose is to create a link between the motor shaft and the spiral rod but with some smoothness
is your black thing works well, great. Mine, even after tightening the 4 screws, doesn't transmit the rotation of the motor to the rod, therefore monkey stays immobile.

#9515 4 years ago

Just about the potential issues with undersized power supply or fuse story, shall I fear that with my June 2014 model?

#9518 4 years ago

Thanks to all helpers there. I really appreciate

#9519 4 years ago

Annnnddd. fixed!!

Was a good working session with my son and now the monkey is flying as an angel.
2.1 sec for each travel, robust and steady.

I'm so happy to have this fixed.
The black plastic was completely dead on the rod side, I get why It was no longer able to move the rod.

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#9523 4 years ago

You could try to full reinstall with the latest rom burnt on a USB key and boot with the key inside..

#9526 4 years ago

Yes, it should just display the loading of files and directly to scarecrow

Jjp booting screen at first.

1 week later
#9589 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The "curie temperature" to lose all magnetism is around 1060 degrees (cook on bbq for 25 mins over direct coals).
Practically all magnetism is gone.

I made a trial today.
Had 4 balls severely magnetized.
20 min in an aluminium sheet in the embers in the stove.

Balls are completely normal now except one thing..

IMG-20191220-WA0000 (resized).jpegIMG-20191220-WA0000 (resized).jpeg
#9592 4 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

That is cool! Are you gonna start making these ? I'll take a set.

As long as it's winter, production can go smoothly ^^

#9594 4 years ago

Thanks

#9596 4 years ago

Direct flame was surely not the best idea

1 week later
#9617 4 years ago

I'd like to add spotlights and led ribbon under slingshot, but that would turn off on "crystal ball lights off" effect.
Any tuto for that?
Happy new year to all folks

#9622 4 years ago

As long as you don't have any light issue, switching to 2.0 is useless.

For the movie, I'd say to do a complete flash of the latest rom version.

#9624 4 years ago


Purchasing the kit in case of, can be a good option.
For the rom, might be just a file corruption, hard to say without seeing the bug

2 weeks later
#9732 4 years ago

Lol..
I've a standard and there is no monitor but a projector in the apron.

1 month later
#9935 4 years ago

Really nice story, don't be ashamed as long as you enjoy!
I agree that a 5sec ball saver was the best change to help my kids and friends enjoy the game

7 months later
#11356 3 years ago

Hi,
My woz 7.5v 1.1 is not happy with the crash test of having 8 kids at home.
Leds are going wild..
I've seen that twisting or moving cables under the playfield on the middle right part did solve temporarily the issue but any vibration bring the issue back.

Is there any guide to troubleshiit this led issue? To try to find the culprit connector or wire?
Otherwise, the game play perfectly well..
Thanks a lot.

#11364 3 years ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Trace the lighting harness back to the cluster of push-in wire connectors. Wiggle there. If that triggers/solves the issue, replace all of the push-in connectors with something better. JJP used quick connectors with stranded wire that were only rated for solid wire. Stranded wire eventually fails in these connectors, causing the exact issue you are describing. (Don’t ask me how I know).

thanks, that's indeed my current plan. any ref for updated connector that may be great sized ?

#11392 3 years ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

thanks, that's indeed my current plan. any ref for updated connector that may be great sized ?

ok, so I've found the board and connectors that are creating the issue.
It's a small board #1 that brings light below the rainbow playfield.
When i pull strongly both cables, the lights are perfectly working, so I think I'd need to change these 2 connectors and the plugs.
What would be the references for these ones ??
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

Thanks

#11398 3 years ago

I've already resoldered the pins to dig out this point. Seems more an issue of cable pins..
I don't want to solder directly wires on the board

#11417 3 years ago

Guys, is it possible to skip one led board?
I've got obly à small one with malfunction, and meanwhile I'm fixing the connector, I was wondering if I can just plug to the following cable..
7.5v boards

#11422 3 years ago

Thanks!

#11425 3 years ago

Thanks LTG
Any reference for a replacement connector and plug?

#11430 3 years ago

My woz is back.
Gi board 1 removed and disabled.
Now, I need to figure out if the card is faulty or just the connector.
It's a 1.4 version.
Any one has some experience with that?
More likely a board issue or cable defect?
Can I swap with any 7.5v board??
Thanks

#11434 3 years ago

Except if it's only a connection issue.
I'll first un solder and resolder the three connectors to debug this.
Thanks for your help, woz deserves all my attention as it's a so wonderful machine.

#11472 3 years ago

what are the quickest steps to melt the witch, and how do you know it was melt in previous games ? Is there a specific GC on that ?

#11475 3 years ago

Sounds fun

#11478 3 years ago

For now, I try to solve my led board issues.
It's related to cables that are failing one after the other.
I didn't manage to find the exact replacement for now, except in the official store.
Would like to get a better connector as these one are crap..

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