(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

6 years ago

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Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (6 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (3 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (1 year ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (1 year ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

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#17 6 years ago

I noticed on the JJP google group that some of the people that were having the light board issues have received the updated boards today with the final fix and some initial testing looks pretty damn positive (no lockups). Can't wait for the problem to be gone for good (for those that had it, never popped up on mine)

#18 6 years ago

Also, +1 on the 3.0 how to someone mentioned above, i am horrible at woz, lol, never melted the witch, i've only gotten rescue multiball once. However, disclaimer, i hardly ever get to play lately. luckily I just moved the post at the exit of the castle playfield so i'm hoping that helps.

#22 6 years ago
Quoted from DaveH:

I moved that post a while ago. About 1 out of 3 times in the castle playfield it helps get you an extra shot or two. Not an earth shattering change, but I think it is worth it. I just find the castle brutally difficult sometimes. Although I still laugh when I flub out of the munchkin playfield a couple times and get told "Can't quite get the hang of it".
And I still say beating TOTO 2 is the best callout in the game so far.

yeah, was just gonna say, after moving it, i find it a little easier to keep the ball up on the castle playfield now. so not a night and day change, but i'll take all the help i can get.

#51 6 years ago
Quoted from Geremy13:

Hello everyone.,,,
I suppose I am happy to see this thread as well. I am guessing there were issues with the rest of the community on this game. I have not had enough time to read all posts regarding other folks opinions... which is really what I like,,, the good, the bad, the ugly...... just like to hear it straight. But I am guessing there were too many opinions that bashed it out of proportion .... What do you all think?... I mean 'Overall'. And how about price?.... I have an opportunity to purchase a Standard for about 8K, in stock and ready to ship, no waiting, no deposits, etc......
I have read about people saying that there are LE's that people are trying to sell for 7K but I can't seem to find them, so .......

Hitch9 already mentioned the differences between the LE and standard. I will say this, the invisiglass is definitely worth the upgrade that you can add on to a standard if you go that route (shaker motor too, but im not as into it)

I also think its important to know that JJP is a solid company, but a new one at the same time, and WOZ is their first product. If you look through the JJP subforum here you will see various threads (and flame wars) most of the early issues had to do with the light boards, so i would check to see what the build date is on that NIB standard, ask the seller if it has the newest light boards, is it from an authorized JJP dist? all that said, JJP support has been 100% solid and Lloyd and Alex have always been at the ready to help when needed.

as to your mention of is it a dark game, I think that is subjective. it does not have good general illumination IMHO, but for me that is fine, my pins are my office/game room that is not kept dark, so this works fine for me. Somone who wanted to put this in maybe their dark mancave might want to add some spots in the lower PF so that you could truly enjoy it in the dark.

although i've had a few bumps in the road myself, I have no regrets at all. my whole family really enjoys the game along with anyone who visits our home.

#58 6 years ago
Quoted from Geremy13:

Well, herein lies my decision and question as well..... I can't seem to find one... but hear there are many. I am the same, like the wood apron, etc., etc.,, etc.... But only have the Standard available to me right now. This one comes with the shaker and invisiglass.... but not big deals to me anyways.... (but this one comes with it.)....
So what to do?... Hmmmmmm.... purchase the LE that I can't find, purchase the STD that can ship tomorrow, place a deposit on a 75er, or???
Just need some honest advice from those that know this machine WAY better than me....

IMHO, go with the STD or wait for an LE to pop up, unless you are seriously in no rush for the 75er.

#59 6 years ago

Question: legs popping out of house.

The wall only comes down about half way.. its my understanding that its supposed to come down all the way. So I went in the adjustments and upped the power on the coil, but all the seems to do is make it smack it harder and it still just comes down half way.

Am i doing something wrong here or missing something? any help appreciated.

#96 6 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

It was not my machine, I just helped set it up. The big metal cover over the boards that is supposed to be screwed in place must have also come loose from the journey. Glad we discovered it just laying in there before it shorted something out.

o-din, please respect this thread, it is a "WOZ fanclub thread" if you would like to air your grievances about some stuff coming loose during shipping, you are welcome to and free to post about it by creating your own thread or as I see you already did, in the WOZ shipping thread. It's unfortunate that happened to your buddy tho, I had some shipping related issues with mine to but luckily JJP support (and Alex) we're quick to help. good luck!

#98 6 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Sorry. I think it is a beautiful machine, and plays great, but it was one frustrating evening. I am thru now.

Thanx man, and impressive collection you got. Once you guys get things dialled in and playing 3.0 code, we'd love to hear your take on it. good luck!

#101 6 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Sold my ST Prem TODAY. Buying WOZ TOMORROW! Ditributors have some down here. Should I be asking the dealer about this LED board problem? Should I check the a manufacture date or something to get an idea what run it's from?

I wouldnt let a question about the LED problem "stop" you from buying it, but its a question i'd like to know before purchase (and what i asked myself when i bought mine from a dist)

Regardless of which version of boards it has, you're going to want to test it anyways once you get it. make sure all the boards work, see if any lock ups occur, and if they do, open up a ticket with JJP, their support is top notch. However, if your dist has it in stock, it most likely at least has the 7.5v boards. and the lockup issue has only affected a certain group of machines (mine has been fine) Good luck with the purchase! you will love it!.

#104 6 years ago
Quoted from blondetall:

Please do the moderators a favor: if someone posts something in here that you don't think belongs, don't agree with, think is against the thread rules, etc... please just ignore it and report it. The more times you quote it and reply to it and talk about it, the harder it is for us to edit. We can remove one post with no problem, but it is much harder when that one post is quoted over mulitple other posts and talked about in other posts so that it messes up the thread history and confuses people if/when it is taken out.

Understood, feel free to delete my response where I quoted and I'll remember this for the future. thnx!

#118 6 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

WOZ and "easy" definitely don't go together....completely agree...

Just turned mine off now for that very reason....mine has chosen to become a drain monster the last couple of nights...whew....nothing worse than launching a ball and never even getting a flipper on it ( with 5 available...ha)....

Yeah, same here, but i also recently took the easy out and turned on the ball save for 7 seconds, heh.

#148 6 years ago
Quoted from Hitch9:

I did the fix, and it works great. No more stalling at the entrance. I'm pretty impressed you got 1.6 million before fixing that problem.!

I dont quite understand the problem or the fix, can someone explain in more detail? For some reason i'm just not getting it. heh.

#150 6 years ago
Quoted from DaveH:

Sure. On the rescue playfield there are shots to all 6 targets, the doors, and the search loop. On my game, I slam it into the search loop, and instead of going around it seems to go into the loop around an inch, and then chatters right back out of it. We all are calling it a reject because most of the time that loop just kicks the ball back out the entrance of the loop. It is VERY frustrating, but I'm really psyched to try this fix of bending that wireform just a bit. I don't think it is a design issue, just a minor implementation issue.

Excellent, thnx for the clarification. I dont feel like i've hit that loop enough to really know if its a problem for me (my playing time has been extremely limited due to work) but i dont recall seeing too many rejects on my end, so i will have to check it out to double check.

#161 6 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

Add me to the group.
I've only had my WOZ for 5 days now.
Awesome machine.

Quoted from JIM_Z:

You can add me to the fan cub,SO glad i waited now! I have not played this much in years,i went and played a game this afternoon and had my best yet then the next was probably my worst. Lots of fun!

Congrats and welcome!

#162 6 years ago

Ugh, i am horrible at getting rescue multi-ball. I played three games last night and my focus was simply on hitting the winkie and then getting up to the castle. even with the post moved in at the exit. first i got up there several times, almost spelling rescue, but hadn't captured dorothy, then i finally capture dorothy but couldnt finish spelling rescue.. lol.

had a lot of fun trying at least.

i've been trying to work on getting my shots down (pin newb) and i think ive got most of them... but for the life me, can not hit the spinner on purpose with any consistency (always by accident, or via the slings)

I will keep at it tho, such a fun game. I feel a little guilty that i have been ignoring the TSPP next to it lately. heh.

#165 6 years ago
Quoted from Excalabur:

As a tip for rescue multiball, the upper playfield loop (the SEARCH shot) spots a rescue letter and is generally easier than making many of the targets. SEARCH will also light for virtual locks after you spell rescue, either before or after you capture dorothy: I believe the jackpots go up, but in any event more balls = more points in my experience.

I did not know that. i will have to give that a try, thnx!

#179 6 years ago
Quoted from Geremy13:

I am interested in this game and need a sort of 'What to Look For' chart. When I say that I mean, I am interested in an ECLE, STD, Ruby Red.... just simply interested.
It looks like the Standard is available NIB which is cool, and I like that a lot unless I can actually purchase from a neighbor and see it in person and pick it up. Which doesn't seem to be happening anytime soon.
So... I need a chart that would go something like: 2012: 1st release of WOZ (any edition), Issues were: xxxx, 06-2012 Issue resolved. 2013 Issue arose with: xxxxxx... 06-2013 Issue resolved. Mid-2013: Light (thing that you all are talking about) Issue arose with: xxxxx.... Late-2013: Issue resolved....
I'm kinda looking for this so that I know which to purchase. I have read some things about 5V vs 7.5V and stuff but have missed some things. Read something about adjusting something behind the upper doors (simple) but really want to know these things. And most importantly... Buy this date: and NOT that date:
Always appreciate every piece of information that this forum offers. Just missed this one. Thanks in Advance.

Pretty much what taylor said. Things like minor adjustments wern't specific to build dates that i noticed. If you're buying a NIB, then its going to at the very least have newer light boards. and if you buy a used one, I would just ask if they have had any light board lockup/blowout issues, and if so, have they gotten the new replacement boards from JJP to fix it. JJP support is top notch.

#180 6 years ago
Quoted from DaveH:

I just snapped this pic from the 3.0 rules screen on my game. To get to battle the witch you need to collect the 4 emeralds on this screen. So you need to start Rescue Multiball, start Emerald City Multiball, start a munchkin mode, and start Fireball Frenzy. The rules to start each of those is on the screens.

Swee, this was going to be my next question. how the heck do i even get to the battle, lol.

Quoted from Excalabur:

As a tip for rescue multiball, the upper playfield loop (the SEARCH shot) spots a rescue letter and is generally easier than making many of the targets. SEARCH will also light for virtual locks after you spell rescue, either before or after you capture dorothy: I believe the jackpots go up, but in any event more balls = more points in my experience.

This! i did this last night (only had time to play one game) and was able to get to rescue multiball, i am ever so slowly improving, heh.

#182 6 years ago
Quoted from PinballHelp:

I have really, really been enjoying WOZ... hats off to JJP and their whole team for making an amazing game!
From the unboxing...

I've been showing the game off to so many people, and everybody that plays it really loves it
including Jello Biafra from the Dead Kennedys:

Tommy Malone from the Subdudes:

We even brought the game to the local Maker's Faire and showed off the latest in pinball technology

Ha, nice seeing jello (saw you post this pic b4) brings back memories

Sweet that you brought it to the maker fair, how did it go over there?

#188 6 years ago

So is the goal of rescue MB to get back up to the castle and spell rescue again with the red letters? now that i can actually get to it, i guess i should figure out how to beat it. heh.

#192 6 years ago
Quoted from Geremy13:

Sounds like a winner....
My wife want's one pretty bad. I think we should get one and just go from there....

I believe September is when they switched to the 7.5v LED boards, just buy it, you'll love it. as long as you go in knowing there is the possibility to make some tweaks and dial it in, you'll be fine. everyone at JJP is helpful, everyone in the WOZ google group is helpful, and at the very least, everyone in this protected thread is helpful, lol.

#215 6 years ago

Question, vibration noise sometimes from side rails where glass meets (that plastic channel in there i assume)

(i say sometimes cause it doesn't always happen when i pull/replace glass)

i know this isnt exactly a woz specific issue, but do you seasoned pin vets have any advice? i think i saw someone mention there was special tape for this. any home grown remedies? (electrical tape?)

Any advice appreciated.

#216 6 years ago
Quoted from Geremy13:

Comment: Is it just me or is this a 5 ball game?
I have played around with Tron and AC/DC just having fun and set them to 10 balls for 'learning' or testing new strategies. And then quickly put it back to 3 balls.
But, having played WOZ just a few games (80) in the last 24 hours. (I don't work on Sunday),,,, I had to put it on 5 right away. Well, remember that I am new. Can't wait to share with everybody when I get over 5,000 points!

I set mine to 5, moved the two outlane posts in, and moved the castle field exit post in, heh. dont feel bad, lol.

#219 6 years ago
Quoted from Geremy13:

Fantastic idea!... I have already changed the balls to 5 for this short time until I master the game (haha)... but changing the outlane posts will be something done soon, I am sure!

Yeah they are all easy to do, you do need to get a little creative when doing the castle field exit post, you have to take the wire habbitrails off, some have removed or loosened the upper playfield, but i just got a mini socket wrench that just fit perfectly in there and was able to do it in place. If you do the left outlane post (theres no place like home) just remember that you also have to move the metal ball guide out as well (there is a hole for it, you just cant see it till you move it)

Once i did this, far less drains, maybe when i get better i will move stuff back, but for now it makes it alot more fun for me (and other newbs that come over and play)

#226 6 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

Some people report using electrical tape just fine, I've heard it can come loose and gum things up, it's not the best sticking tape in the world. If you have some handy couldn't hurt to try, worst case scenario you have to goo gone it off the glass if it leaves a mess. Big deal.
But if you're looking to get the "real thing" this is the specialty tape you're thinking of: http://pinballpro.net/shop/anti-rattle-tape-ar-1/

Thnx, i saw the pinballpro tape mentioned in another thread. my only concern is that someone mentioned it was nearly impossible to remove. of course.. why would i want to remove it? lol. I assume i wont need to. so i am struggling there a bit on that one. heh.

2 weeks later
#253 6 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Heads up. Looks like another code update of some kind is coming according to Jack on the Google Group. It may be just bug fixes but its nice to know that another update will be coming at some point.
A few months back Keith mentioned possibly adjusting the rules of the Munchkin modes to make them a little more interesting so who knows maybe that will be one of the changes.

Sweet, thanks for posting that here. I havent really been keeping up in the google group since things have settled down.

1 week later
#270 6 years ago
Quoted from iceman44:

Ahhhhhhhhh…..always one shot away from melting the witch!

i'm happy i've finally just gotten to battle the witch twice now, lol.

#271 6 years ago

also, i am going to start working on a "visual" rulesheet, that i can print and frame and stick next to the WOZ so i dont have to explain the 100million different things you can do while playing when ppl come over. ) I may be bugging some of you for some of the diff rule parts (like for the life of me, i ferget which colors mean what for crystal multi-ball, and i have no clue what the heck you do in the haunted forest)


#277 6 years ago

Excellent! thnx guys, this will get me started

#298 6 years ago
Quoted from neurokinetik:

Finally, FINALLY, got through TNPLH successfully for the first time the other night. Managed to get all the rainbow targets very quickly with mostly bank shots from the upper right flipper off the witch and the right bumper. Made the next four shots right in a row without missing (backhanded the throne room, then backhanded that kickout right into the spinner, then immediate right and left orbit shots. I actually had 49 seconds on the clock with which to make the final ramp shot.
Still about 0 for 12 against the witch in battle, though. Guess I'm just biding my time...

When you say backhanded, can you elaborate? I have trouble making the throne room and crystal ball spinner on purpose (i usually get lucky with the slings)

#302 6 years ago
Quoted from StevenP:

You can make the Cb spinner from the left flipper, if the ball rolls along the flipper a bit while held up. As soon as it starts rolling down the upraised flipper, a well-timed quick tap will shoot the ball into the spinner. I haven't been able to do it from a straight trapped ball, but a quick tap on a trapped ball can give you the rollback you need. Same shot for the Wizard saucer. You can also make both directly--just need to time it right to shoot when the ball just rolls onto the curved tip of the flipper. Practice!

I see what your saying, I will give that a try. thnx!

#306 6 years ago

i did the search loop tweak last night, man that really does make a diff, glad i finally did it.

also, my crystal ball finally fell off when raising the PF to check something. note to self, always check to see if the CB is loose b4 lifting playfield, heh.

I had some silicone based adhesive laying around so i just used that, we'll see how that works. (didn't want to super glue it, heh)

#311 6 years ago
Quoted from Mato:

I am now a member of the WOZ club.........

Welcome to the club

#312 6 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

I blow a fuse..where can I get them from. #409 I think. 3A 250v.delay . they seem shorter then your normal buzz fuze.

Wish i knew, I'd love to get some sort of "spare set" together myself just in case.

3 weeks later
#370 6 years ago
Quoted from bigduke6:

Well, this will be my first post in this thread. Why? Because my first ever NIB is sitting in the back of the Suburban. My WOZ was picked up today. Standard with shaker and invisaglass. To say I'm excited is an understatement. My distributer said a new update is a week or two away. I know this has been asked before but what should be done right away? Cliffys, of course, anything else?
BTW, until my son gets home the 350 pound box stays in the truck. Damn.

Congrats and welcome to the club! That box is a BEAST but well worth it once you get it setup. I was lucky that my neighbor happened to be home when the delivery truck came.

1 week later
#382 6 years ago

Question about Munchkin modes order.

I was playing earlier today and made the loops to start. but I got Munchkin Frenzy.. I was under the impression that it went in order and should have started "welcome to Munchkinland"... either that or I just had a mental lapse.

How does it work?

#384 6 years ago
Quoted from generica:

Munchkin modes are randomly awarded, like haunted modes. The fourth is multiball.

ok, i got it. so the next question. do i have to "win" a mode to advance to the next one? or if i spell rainbow and spin the house 3 times, the 4 time i will get MB?

#392 6 years ago

I saw the setting for YBR loops to light the extra ball @ the thrown room, but where do you set EB's to be point based? I should probably just go look but if someone off the top of their head knows feel free to chime in.

#394 6 years ago

Excellent, thanks!

1 week later
#403 5 years ago

Finally GC'd the game and broke a million (ok, just a hair over). love 4.0 so far.

Can someone shed some light for me on completing the haunted steps?

I get the bumpers..

But targets and holes?

#405 5 years ago
Quoted from generica:

Not sure what you mean, you don't really have to complete anything, it just builds a value for end-of-ball bonus and multiball scoring. Right now my strategy is building targets and bumpers as high as possible but not really going for the other two.
Bumpers is the haunted bumpers, outlane bumper, slingshots, and bonusX slingshot. Targets are the rainbow stand-ups, castle playfield stand ups, winged monkey targets and witch. Holes are the vuks and saucers (vuk to castle, castle door, crystal ball and throne room, and shots are the six main shots that are also jackpots in recsue multiball.
I may be forgetting to include something in that list it's off the top of my head.
You get to haunted multiball when you've done all four; it's collected as if it was the fifth mode. In HMB the bumpers score your total for haunted bumpers with each hit and so on. I think that's how it works.

Ahh, i get it. so for example, targets and holes... do i have to hit every target and every VUK to check that item off the list and work towards HMB?

1 week later
#432 5 years ago

Ok, sorry to be a pest, lol, but i'm still having trouble with the haunted modes. Can someone clue me in as to how it works?

I know there is:


I am trying to complete certain things to move on to the next task in the list? (and if so, are they called out a certain way?) or I am just amassing points and then shoot collect or something to move on to the next part..

And then once all parts are completed does HMB just start? or do I have to shoot collect again?

Any help would be appreciated.

#443 5 years ago
Quoted from neurokinetik:

Hitting the bumpers lights letters in "H-A-U-N-T-E-D". When "H-A-U-N-T-E-D" is complete, "Collect" is lit. Hit the collect to start a haunted mode. Each of the first four Haunted modes is a timed frenzy, and what you shoot for is what the mode says (shots, targets, holes or bumpers). You can only have one haunted mode running at a time. The fifth haunted mode is Haunted Multiball.

Ok. so each mode is timed, got it. a few more questions.

1. Is it that, once the timer is up, it goes to the next mode?

2. do i have to hit any of the goals to advance to the next mode at the end of the timer?

#444 5 years ago

Just installed my mezelmods tonight, very happy so far. got:

the "city"
the lit drop target
the lit tornado

the good:

everything looks sweet! the lit drop target is a must IMHO

the bad:

1. I blew my first light board ever (#25 (T)oto) so i'll be sending Lloyd an email for a replacement. (went ahead and jumper-ed over it to keep things going.)

2. the mezelmod tornado, when i first plugged it in, it did not light up when i spun the house in test mode. I lifted the PF back up and checked all the cables, re-seated things. then it worked. but of course, after I jumped the #25 light board, it stopped working. heh. checked the molex connectors and they looked ok, wiggled things again and bam, was working again. So it works right now, but I think I'm going to replace the molex connectors, sounds like its not getting a solid connection.

#446 5 years ago
Quoted from limelime20:

why don't they just send out the light board's to every WOZ owner..?? knowing they are defective....

Since this thread is not about the light board issue, I am not going to delve too far here, but I'm not concerned. the replacement board will be one of the new modded ones with the built in filter. It's my understanding that you get that filter in the right place(s) in the chain, problem solved. So I am perfectly fine missing the T in toto until it arrives.

Now if I can get my head wrapped around the haunted modes, I'm good to go. lol.

#450 5 years ago
Quoted from pinstyle:

Arca, the pop bumpers will light the letters in the word 'haunted'. When you have them all lite, 'collect' will light. Start a haunted mode by dropping a ball into the crystal ball vuk from the pop bumpers where 'collect' is lite. Each mode will be timed, the pop bumpers will extend this time when hit. After each mode has expired, you will need to lite the letters in 'haunted' again for each mode to start. The last mode will be haunted multiball.
You do not need to hit any of the goals to advance through modes, though these goals are worth points during the given mode.

Ok, got it!

last question, let's say i complete two of the modes, and while working on the third, drain the ball, do I lose my progress? (those first two completed modes)

#453 5 years ago

ok thanks guys! I think i officially get the haunted modes now.

#461 5 years ago

i'm working on a "visual" graphic that will act kind of like a pretty "how to" that i plan to print and hang up next to the woz, but I'm taking forever to get it done. lol.

1 week later
#469 5 years ago
Quoted from neurokinetik:

Really liking the way the bonus works in 4.0 now. Had a good ball last night with a couple of haunted modes stacked with multiballs and a munchkin mode or two, multiplier at least up to 8x, and saw the biggest bonus I've ever seen on WOZ: 285,000.

What is the trick to increasing the multiplier?

#485 5 years ago
Quoted from Mato:

Yeah probably the outcome, pretty piss poor for a board to go after 5 weeks of having it, do you know if this is common and also how much the boards are worth?

This has been discussed, there is an updated board with a filter "daughter" board attached. you can jumper over the bad board and disable it in settings to keep playing while JJP send you a new board(s), Lloyd will hook you up.

#488 5 years ago

*Edit, even better, check out the manual where Herg mentioned*

With the playfield up, find the board that is bad (each one has a number label printed on it). Also, look at whats plugged in, i'm at work right now, but if my memory serves me right, there is a plug with a red end, which is outgoing to the next board, and there is a green plug on the other side which is incoming from the previous board, and a power cable in the middle. So in my case, recently, #25 blew, while I waited for the new board (with the built in filter)

So i went to #24 (the good board b4 25) and unplugged the red outgoing side (which is going to #25), then i went to #25, and unplugged the outgoing red side (which is going to #26) and plugged it in to the now empty slot in #24.

So what I did was bypass the bad #25 (so #24 now goes next to #26)

Then you go into settings, I believe it is game settings, scroll down to the bottom where you see the numbered light boards, and in my case, i found #25, and turned it off.

Once I got the new board, i swapped it in, plugged the cables back in how they were, and turned #25 back on.

1 week later
#500 5 years ago

When you say they didnt work, you installed them, plugged them in, and nada? Maybe take a picture showing the new board installed/wired up and the one in front and back wiring wise and post it.

1 week later
#512 5 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

For the Witch castle playfield, are most people moving the post in that is at the left side of castle playfield exit?

Yup, i moved it in. I was able to do it without lifting the playfield too (but did have to remove the habitrails) with a small socket wrench. It was just draining way too easily.. however, I will say this, now that I have had it for some time and I'm "better" at the game, I could probably live with it in its original location. YMMV

#518 5 years ago
Quoted from Zampinator:

What mods have you guys done to your WOZ? I have the castle wall mods, & was looking to do some others. Anyone install white rubbers? Also, do you guys feel Cliffys are necessary? Do they effect game play? Thanks

The only cliffy I'm concerned with installing is the munchkin land edge protector. As for mods, my favorite is the lit winkie guard target, it really stands out (whereas before you could barely tell if the target was up or down).

4 months later
#542 5 years ago

Rescue MB:

I moved my post, it helped when i just got the game. but as time goes on, the thing that made me better about keeping the ball up on that PF was knowing when not to hit the flipper. For me at least, the majority of my drains from there came from the ball bouncing off something and then hitting the back side of the flipper and heading right for the exit.

Also, i dont even bother to hit the targets most of the time, i either try for the loop (each loop adds a letter) or i bash on the doors until they open and hit the VUK (each time you get in there it adds a letter)

Also, i dont know if its just mine or the setting my VUK up there is dialed in at (or the angle of the deflector), but half the time when it kicks out of the VUK, it rebounds off the flipper and goes right back in to the VUK, haha.

#556 5 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Wowza! Like I said, I love the machine, no regrets.

Those who were in on the original pre-orders for the ECLE's got them for cheaper. I paid the same as you for my ECLE but got in around the end of all the drama (bought mine in stock from automated)

Yeah it was a lot of coin to toss out, but i have no regrets, love this damn thing.

3 weeks later
#579 5 years ago

just over a mill. 5 ball. 10 second ball saver. posts moved in.

You get Rescue MB more often now that you've gotten accustimed to what it takes. For me, first plunge on ball 1 i always try to make it to the pop bumpers so i can light the monkey, then while doing other stuff eventually i'll make it back up there to capture Dorothy. Once i get up to the castle i dont bother trying to hit the targets, i just hit the search loop or bash through doors.

#581 5 years ago

I havent even gotten to understanding the gem collecting yet, lol, new baby arrival has derailed my WOZ playing time. However, he is big enough to fit in one of those baby wearing contraptions so hopefully that brings the WOZ time back. heh.

#589 5 years ago

i wonder who will get curious enough to pull the glass and find out. I am far too lazy.

2 months later
#692 5 years ago

man that is great to know, the limited times i've battled the which i always drained from trying to hit all the diff shots.

#698 5 years ago

Sweet jesus. just stacked Crystal MB, Haunted MB, ECMB and a Munchkin Mode. What a rush this game is.

#707 5 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I have to agree...it is very fulfilling to stack the modes. I have been getting better, but my scores have not.

Yea, even with that massive stack, my score was only 450k, but good enough for the 8th spot on my top scores. I've gotta improve on completing the modes, not just getting them started. but still, massive fun.

#708 5 years ago
Quoted from grahamharley:

my wife loved TOM and is still pissed that I sold it a few years ago, she also loves WOZ so we are lucky to have pin wifes, not required but makes life so much easier

Agree'd, got a TSPP and it was wifey who wanted to pull the trigger on WOZ, i had noooooo prob with that.

#710 5 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

That 500k default score has been driving me nuts. I only have a month or two left with my woz, I really hope to crack it.

haha! yeah that default HS haunted me for like the first 4 months I owned the machine. The night i finally beat was like the best time ever.

3 weeks later
#740 5 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Joining the club today. Driving about 9 hours round trip today to go pick up a HUO standard with shaker, invisiglass, and a few other mods. I'm super psyched about this game. I never thought in my entire life I would spend this kind of money on my entire pinball collection, let alone one single pin.

Totally worth it and congrats. be sure to take some pics and post.

#754 5 years ago
Quoted from Excalabur:

Sometimes full-plunge into the bumpers to hit the Capture Dorothy targets is also correct instead of taking the skill-shot points.

This is my usual strategy with at least the first ball to get Dorothy lit.

2 weeks later
#811 5 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Mine was built July 2013. I don't know if this is in the timeframe
Of games made by the original supplier which JJP seems to think had an inferior process than what they currently use.

I would check with JJP to see if it was one of those PF's from the problematic mfg.

9 months later
#1088 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

I'm on my 20th attempt...tried Firefox, IE, and chrome. I have a fast connection, should take about 20 minutes total. It got to 3gigs once, but usually fails/ends around the 500mb mark. Not sure what else to do.

Head over here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-600-code fellow WOZ owner posted a dropbox link recently, I just used it and it worked fine for me.

#1090 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Link is dead...still can't download.

Yeah, drop box took it down already. I was lucky enough to grab it as soon as he posted it. But Alex put up a new link on RackCDN that should work just as good:


3 weeks later
#1126 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Hi all. My new WoZ is coming tomorrow. Are there any adjustments that most people find they need to make that I should be on the look out for? Things like sling and flipper power settings and the like?

Keep an eye on the lock arm under the munchkin hut. If you have any problems where it wont release locked balls, it may need to be adjusted/bent slightly. Pretty much just play it and if you see anything weird or have any questions, hit us up.


#1138 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

So, I figured out that when I press the switch, it registers. Then, I let it go, and it doesn't press back hard enough against the switch to turn it off. So, it may be both. Can you tell me what you mean by loosening, adjusting and retighting? It looks pretty tight under there, and I'm not entirely sure how this one works or what specifically to adjust. Thanks.


Lloyd posted this pic in another thread with a similar problem. It shows the underside of the witch and the nuts to loosen are circled in red (its a very thin red line, so zoom in a bit if you cant see it). Once loose, you can adjust how close/far the switches are, sounds like they need to come back a a little.

Let us know how it works out.

#1144 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I'm guessing the travel sprites loosened that switch and set it back.
It's so interesting to play a new pin and think that something may be wrong but not be completely sure. As I was playing, I kept noticing a scratchy white noise sound that repeatedly went off. I was wondering if a speaker was malfunctioning. It got to the point that I couldn't stand playing because that was all I could hear. Then, it occurred to me that it almost sounded like straw rustling and that it might be the scarecrow. But, as I watched the game, I didn't hit that rollover enough to make it sound so often. Finally, I took the glass off, and started hitting the ball around on the switches. I noticed that all of my SCARECROW letters were lit without once hitting the rollover. Looked under the playfield and discovered that the leaf switch was gapped so close it was basically touching. Easy fix, but because I wasn't familiar enough with the game, it took a while to figure out what that awful sound was.

Wow, havent seen that one yet. good catch. Sounds like your making quick work of the little things that popped up.

1 week later
#1244 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinchroma:

To lock the lockdown bar, take your forearm and push down on the center of the bar while sliding the latch to the right. It's snug but it also doesn't wiggle at all.

This. I adjusted mine as well to no avail. but some gentle pressure in the middle while sliding the latch does the trick for me.

#1281 4 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

Capture isn't the issue - it just rolls off once it gets behind the door. I've had the ball capture many times. Just haven't gotten the multiball started. I must have been messing up the order and locking additional balls.
I need to review the rules on knocking the door down, hitting the letters, and hitting the loop.

Another option instead of having to hit the targets to spell rescue. Bash the doors with the ball until it opens, then hit the saucer. Each time you hit it gives you a letter of "rescue". For me this is easier.

#1284 4 years ago
Quoted from Jvspin:

Actually, it gives you two letters, though this may be a setting. Hitting the "search" loop also gives you a letter until they are all collected, then if give you a virtual locked ball and resets the letters.

I didnt realize it gave you two, even better! (if there is a setting mine is stock, so i assume you are correct)

1 week later
#1321 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I just took another look at the playfield. It doesn't seem like it would be too bad to wax. Most of the playfield is wide open. The mini playfields seem accessible enough. The only parts that aren't accessible are the orbit -- which you don't really see anyway -- and the area near the OZ lanes. As for the area near the OZ lanes, I'm going to try to wax if I can, but if not, I'm not sure it is a big deal. That area doesn't get a lot of action, and the coil there is fairly low power so the ball seems pretty gentle when it bounces around. Not like an area near pops or slings where there is a lot of fast action.
One question for everyone: How do you wax around the rollovers? Do you just wax over them as if they were a part of the playfield, or do you just go up to the edge as best you can? It would seem like an area where wax can accumulate.

I just went around them best I could. I think i got a little on them hear and there and just wiped it off.

#1348 4 years ago

I havent even seen WOZ (the movie) all the way through. Theme is fine (but not something I am really into) but the game itself is amazing. There are some who just can't get past the theme, their loss I guess.

2 months later
#1635 4 years ago
Quoted from jrockne:

Thanks, So far it has been board #7, #2, and #5. I have the 7.5 boards, but the replacements boards I have been receiving are different than the ones removed, is the extra little board a additional line filter?

Yeah, the little daughter board is some sort of filter. I've only had one board blow on my ECLE and the replacement had one of those. Haven't had a board blow since.

3 weeks later
#1764 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Interesting, I wonder if that means a different QR code or actual network support with direct integration.
Question on the hard drive. Since SSD's have a fairly limited lifespan, has anyone had to replace the drive yet? I was curious to know if the game is fairly flexible on the drives specs or if its particular to a specific make/model or size drive?

No, any sata SSD drive will do as long as its at least as big as the one you are replacing. Mine went out right when i got it and I didnt want to wait for the replacement so i just grabbed another I had sitting around.

3 weeks later
#1843 3 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Has anyone made a nice shot map of WoZ?... I'm looking for a nice print, or Image That I can Print and frame for the wall next to my WoZ.

I was looking for the same thing but couldnt find it, so i started playing around with building one but got side tracked. + I also got tired of trying to explain how to play WOZ to non-pinhead visitors and figured this would help.

#1845 3 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

How far did you get? I could help with photoshop if need be

not very far, haha, i took some good pics of the PF with the glass off and just started playing around with the basic format. I will probably get back on this in the coming month, when I do I will post here.

3 weeks later
#2023 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Oh also, outlanes are a bit harder to put back to factory... Are we fine keeping those where we have it? Well the right one is easy enough to move back.

Me personally, I don't see myself moving them back in.

#2024 3 years ago

BTW, this is probably the most "fun" club i've seen on pinside. not like i have seen many, but still. everyone is very helpful, supportive, active.

#2025 3 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

WOZ Selfie challenge! Set your game to factory and see how you do.
Post a selfie with your score.
Winner will get a WOZ flyer, JJP decal, JJP shirt(need to check on size but probably XL)

I would probably come in dead last for this contest, lol.

#2111 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

That looks like the OS is going into recovery mode. I would try re-imaging (load the latest release from a thumb drive)

If re-imaging doesnt work, possibly a bad drive.

1 week later
#2270 3 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Sounds great, only concern is the GI light, TH is way better I'm sorry Woz was not improved with a running update.

If you play your pins in the dark, you may want to add a spot or two, no biggie. but if you play your pins in low light, IMHO it is fine as is. I have a dilemma LED ceiling light over my Woz and TSPP and it is perfect on its lowest setting.

1 month later
#2608 3 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

I wish I knew how to do this, because JJ tech support said the same thing. This is my first pin so my knowledge is lacking.

Another option might be to find a fellow pinsider local to you that would be willing to help (you'd be surprised). at least until you can get more comfortable with the machine. You can usually find a local sub-forum for your area on pinside, I would also post in the JJP google group as well (if you are not a member yet, contact Jen)

3 weeks later
#2806 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

The tree pops are typically pretty high. Personal preference ... but if the trees "seem" a little extreme, dial them back a bit.

Yup, I dialed the tree pop's back a few. I also moved in the outlane posts in to make the game a little less brutal at first.

1 month later
#2982 3 years ago
Quoted from agodfrey:

I'm not sure how I missed this conversation less than a month ago. Wow. Well good news is we have time. Best time to prep for an asteroid strike is before you see it.
So I'll keep looking to see if anyone comes up with something of a solution or....order 100 from China!!
We are smart folk. We'll figure it out. In the mean time I can dream.
Thanks for puttibg me on track!

Let me know where you end up with this. happy to help too, i use WS2812B's in my other projects non-pin related, but also using them in some lighting mods I am working on for my TZ.

1 week later
#3007 3 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I've had mine since week 2, had the game for a few years now, a few thousand plays, mezel winki target still going strong

Yeah same here, have had mine over a year with no issue, however, my WOZ doesnt get many plays so probably not a good sample use case. However, I will admint, a solid milled one (like Indy's) will always be stronger than a 3d printed one.

1 week later
#3045 3 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

In my opinion the standard is overpriced at 8500 as is the RR at 9500. But since you are going to be overpaying anyway to buy a NIB WOZ you might as well improve the value of your purchase by getting the 75th Anniversary Ruby Red machine.
The price difference between the RR & the STD versus the feature difference makes the RR a good buy. It looks better, has more toys/mods, better glass, shaker motor and printed manual. If you bought a standard and added the extras you would be very close to a RR price wise but would not have the great red finish on the armour and rails. Glass = 300, Manual = 100, Shaker Motor = 100+ etc...
BTW the printed manual has been very useful in my experience. I bought this separately as it didn't come with my RR. Was it pricey? Yes. Has it been worth it? Absolutely.
At 9500, closer to 10,000 when you add shipping & tax this is a big investment. It has been my experience that the support from JJP has been consistently superb. JJP is here to stay and they are committed to making you a happy and repeat customer. Buy with confidence.

I agree 100%, buy with confidence. I too feel the price is a bit much, but IMHO, the game is totally worth it. If it is one you plan to keep or at least hang on to a good chunk of time, I would pull the trigger for sure.

#3051 3 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

This might be obvious when I stand over the machine -- how hard is it to remove the trees from the pops? I have some mylar I'd like to put down in that area and I think removing the ramps / trees will make the job much easier.

Let us know how this goes, I still need to do that.

#3066 3 years ago

I havent dug very far into this.

But something I have noticed the past month or so which just started getting worse:

During multi-ball or anything really "crazy" a good chunk of lights go "rainbow" on me instead of illuminating the correct color.

It either starts or stops at 8 on the YBR (i need to record or better document exactly what lights this affects).

I lifted up the PF last night and reseated the data cables going to the big board that has YBR #8 on it (W2 i think?)

It is certainly happening less now, but still came up a few times when i played it twice after. Since it comes and goes, and mainly happens during increased activity on the PF, I am thinking loose cable in the data chain somewhere.

Just putting this out there in case other folks have experienced this. Will report back as I check more things out this week.

#3121 3 years ago
Quoted from Spg101:

Just bought my first pin a new WoZ 75th. Doesn't get delivered until tomorrow. Planning a family game night tomorrow and they have no idea, should be fun!
My son took me to an 80's arcade a couple of months ago and I was hooked again. Went to look at the WoZ and it blew me away. Guy said it left the factory on January 7th and is number 138. I asked about play field protectors and he said it didn't need it. Anything you think I should do immediately to help protect it?

If possible, give yourself some time before the big unveiling to set it up, put some games threw it just to make sure all is working as expected (not uncommon on a pinball machine for something to come loose on the bumpy ride home)

#3128 3 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

I havent dug very far into this.
But something I have noticed the past month or so which just started getting worse:
During multi-ball or anything really "crazy" a good chunk of lights go "rainbow" on me instead of illuminating the correct color.
It either starts or stops at 8 on the YBR (i need to record or better document exactly what lights this affects).
I lifted up the PF last night and reseated the data cables going to the big board that has YBR #8 on it (W2 i think?)
It is certainly happening less now, but still came up a few times when i played it twice after. Since it comes and goes, and mainly happens during increased activity on the PF, I am thinking loose cable in the data chain somewhere.
Just putting this out there in case other folks have experienced this. Will report back as I check more things out this week.

Happy to report after re-seating the data cables around where the rainbow light show either started or stopped, the problem appears to have gone away. woo hoo! so it sounds like it was just a bad data connection in the chain that would occasionally trip up the lights.

#3130 3 years ago
Quoted from Spg101:

Well after paying for 2 days the game is AWESOME! The machine has been running nonstop since the unveiling Friday. While it’s a pricey entry fee it was worth it. The kids and even the wife like it. I think we’ll be keeping this game around for quite some time Does anyone know how many of these machines are out there in total including ECLE, RR, 75th and standard? This look great in my office....

Congrats! glad the unveiling went well. beware, now that you have one you'll want more, heh.

#3131 3 years ago

Never gets old, just played a game and stacked ECMB, Munchkin mode and Crystal ball mode (which modes I forget, heh, too crazy). Almost was able to sneak in Haunted multi-ball too.

love it.

2 weeks later
#3273 3 years ago
Quoted from rockrand:

I don't have the time to look through this thread but I just found out about woz 2.0 that has been new light bords like in the Hobbit,very good news for new buyers,very very good news

can anyone elaborate on this?

1 week later
#3334 3 years ago

Thread regarding mobo's for WOZ and Hobbit with PN's and links:


Considering that they are not expensive, I wouldnt mind having one on hand as a spare part, but unless something beyond x86_64 comes out I'm not too concerned about parts availability.

#3338 3 years ago
Quoted from Radius118:

Sweet! Thanks for the link..
I wonder why that thread didn't pop up on my search??

I didnt for me when i searched "motherboard" but did in google when i searched "mainboard". tomatoe tomAHtoe i guess.

#3362 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:


All the big green things in your pictures.
Your second picture down. WOZ1 or the fish board. Near the top of the board, see V2.0 ? You have the latest version 2 boards. In use since mid December 2016.
LTG : )

Greets Lloyd! will there be some sort of upgrade kit made available to those with Woz 1.x machines at some point?

#3385 3 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

those are buffered ones

I'm really itching to find out about an eventual swap to the newer "2.0" woz boards (that are the same as hobbit) and what that would cost.

While I have only blown one board in the last 3 years, it would be nice to know what that option entails down the road.

#3413 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

So, the new ones I'm getting are buffered, is that right? What does that mean? What does the buffering do? Each of my failed GI boards has intermittently or permanently displayed the wrong color. I just find it weird that they are all going at once, after about 8 months of ownership. Also, why are the GI boards going but the other boards are not?

Interesting, if the boards are always lighting, but sometimes displaying the wrong color, makes me think you didnt blow a board (where it just does nothing, and then all lights in the chain behind it are also dark) but instead (since it works intermittently) makes me wonder if you have a bad or failing solder joint on the RGB LED itself.

Recently one of the lights next to my state fair balloon (right by the left flipper) is doing the same thing. I am going to try and reflow the solder to the RGB LED and see if it really was just a bad solder joint (might as well, mine is way out of warranty).

#3416 3 years ago
Quoted from Spg101:

Ok, this just plain sucks. I have my office right below my son's room. WoZ is a work of art right....? It's art in my office.. He goes to bed and the machine is just too loud even muted... No fun late at night...

Turn the tree's/pops down (if you havent already), that was the loudest part for me. (i had the same issue, waking up the kids)

#3424 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Data is definitely getting through to the downstream LEDs. It is just something wrong with that individual one. Or, I should say, those six LEDs that failed recently. Not sure if it the solder joints, but I do seem to have received a bad batch.

Yeah I am thinking bad batch. When I pull the board underneath the state fair balloon and check it out I will post details.

#3440 3 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I just spoke with jjp, the boards pictured are original and have an older firmware associated with them v1.1, you can see it in the pic. Replacement all the boards is $800-1000 and to upgrade the firmware would require replacement of the i/o board potentially. Not all boards have failed and it's possible if they haven't by now, they won't, but that's not certain.
Pretty disappointed as I had a trade for my smaug for this woz, which otherwise looks beautiful, but I'm not comfortable taking the risk unless there is a significant discount to compensate for these potential light issues. With my luck, they would fail a week after I got the game.

I have the same 7.5 unbuffered boards in mine. I have only had one small GI board blow about a year ago. It was replaced with one of the buffered ones. I have not had an issue since (owned mine roughly 3 years or so).

The only other problem I am having is the state fair board, one LED's color is intermittently off, but I believe that has nothing to do with the board and most likely a failing solder joint on the LED itself, which I will check when time permits.

#3444 3 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

What firmware are your light boards running? The game i was looking at was v1.1/rev 39. The way it was explained to me with this version, the i/o board could also need replacing as just replacing the light boards could cause issues with the colors, including red lighting blue or green lighting red, etc. Basically, the older light boards were wired backwards so you can't just install a new buffered board. I'm not an expert, this is just how I understood it, maybe this is wrong. Totally agree not all games are affected and it likely is in the minority, but a lot have been affected, and you take a risk as even with a jjp discount, you are looking at $600- $1000 to fix them all.

I think there are two things you are addressing here:

A: Updating all boards to the 2.0 version being shipped on new games (same as what is in use on hobbit)

B: Updating 1.x boards to the buffered boards

With (A), yes this would entail updating more than the boards as its a completely diff system (not daisy chained, etc)

With (B), my understanding is, your just updating an old board with a new board of the same rev, but its just modified with a tiny little add on daughter board that filters the incoming data to make sure no voltage, noise or whatever blows the controller chip.

Regarding B: Some have had many blow, some had have none blow. There has been speculation it is related to power (I have not kept up on this stuff, so YMMV). I can say for me, its a non-issue. I blew one individual GI board, had it replaced, the replacement was a buffered board. Havent had that issue (blowing a board) since.

I wouldnt let that scare you off a purchase. For me it would be risk VS reward. If the game has been in use a good chunk (and we're talking a HUO game, not routed) and it's still operating fine (even if they have replaced some boards). As long as boards are not blowing left and right, I would be fine with the purchase.

It's all about personal preference, if it really does bother you, perhaps a newer RR would be a better option.

Either way, good luck in the hunt!

#3495 3 years ago

Automated = meh. When I got my ECLE and had some issues with the SSD and Trough boards (we're talking 3+ years ago) I emailed JJP and Mike@automated. JJP was very responsive (Jack himself even reached out) and NADA from Mike at all. He was REALLY responsive before the sale though, lol.

(to give him the benefit of the doubt, perhaps he was just behind on emails, still rubbed me the wrong way)

2 weeks later
#3614 3 years ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

Im just worried about resale value down the road. Was told to use touch up paint on door . Im sure one will be able to tell it was touched up. Am i being to anal? I mean this was a nib pin i know adjustments need to be made but cosmetically should have been good.

I wouldnt stress about it, WOZ was my first NIB and I had a few issues out of the box as well that I had to work through (at least one I just had to let go and forget). Every NIB eventually re-sold even if a well cared for HUO will have some minor blemishes here and there.

#3625 3 years ago
Quoted from pin2d:

This is a quote from a while back - I am trying to figure out why sometimes I need to respell RESCUE, or to re-light just one or two letters that I had previously hit. The quote above says if you hit the loop you'll need to respell - which loop? I am absolutely terrible at getting the RESCUE multi-ball going, so I'm trying to do it in as few shots as necessary!

I skip trying to spell rescue and go straight to the door, bash it and get it open, then hit the scoop behind the door, each time you hit it, you get a letter, and once spelled you hit it one last time to get rescue MB going.

1 week later
#3683 3 years ago

I am a bit late on this: Mylar added to pops for early WOZ builds

Finally got around to contacting JJP support when my state fair board lost the R in RGB on one insert.

However, I was a bit perplexed. I was told I would be getting a mylar artwork sticker for the two pop areas (state fair and trees). But my PF is not damaged, I wanted to put mylar there to prevent it. I asked if clear mylar was an option and was told only the stickers were available. (so they are currently on their way)

To those that added these? was it clear mylar? a mylar covered sticker? if you had no PF damage, did you just cut your own mylar?

Curious as to others' experience with this.

#3686 3 years ago

Thanks guys, I will reach out to Joe and inquite further.

#3704 3 years ago
Quoted from thunder001:

I've checked all connections and can't find any loose. This is frustrating! A new machine and already not working!

Can you post a vid of what you are seeing during the test? If it is not apparent what the issue is to this thread group, JJP support is top notch, im sure it will get sorted out

#3724 3 years ago

can any of you with the munchkin PF chrome edge protector from modfather chime in on if it has held up/ if you like it?

the cliffy just seems like overkill for me with only the edge by the ramp really the only spot getting nailed.

#3729 3 years ago
Quoted from agodfrey:

I love it (ModFather version). So far so good, That said I also have the cliffy and I had it powder coated green so at some point I am going to put that on. But this one was easy to put on and is holding up. BUY IT

This! was it a PITA to get done? or did you just order from cliffy and then send it out (local?)

#3730 3 years ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

I bought the Modfather chrome strip, and it just kept coming loose. It would end up blocking the ball in the shooter lane, so I ripped it out and and put in a cliffy instead. The double sided tape on the strip just didn't work well for me, but I'm glad to hear it's working well for agodfrey.
That said, I love the castle walls from the Modfather. Those look like they were meant to be part of the game instead of the plastic tube.

Yeah this is my fear. i think if i had the cliffy painted/powder coated I would like it more, I dont really care about taking up the mini PF (though I am pretty lazy)

Thanks for the input guys.

#3737 3 years ago

I bought mine without ever having played it (and I don't regret it) that being said, that was back when there were none out there to play (other than @ the big shows). I would definitely find one to play first, why not? I agree that you need some time on it to truly appreciate the game but I'd still suggest putting $20 through one just to try.

#3738 3 years ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

The mini playfield was actually pretty easy to remove. Sounds a lot harder than it is.

I know, just lazy and lacking time. I will probably get the cliffy and get it powder coated (and then sit on it about 5 months before I actually put it on, haha). Just not sure if I am going to do green or red.

#3748 3 years ago
Quoted from Spg101:

I have an 11 year old and we are running 5 ball, what is this "ball save" you speak of? I may even lower the threshold for for additional balls if possible and turn it back to three ball. Someone mention why string out a game that's not going well and kill it early, I kind of like the thought of that.

Ball save timer (it's in the game settings menu if i recall), starts when you launch the ball. Handy if you drain or hit the outlanes right out of the tree pops. I have mine set to 10 seconds.

#3749 3 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

I played WOZ several times at shows & at one location (Marvin's in Farmington Hills, MI, a quiet location).
I didn't care for it. It was just too crowded, too much stuff, too confusing, too everything.
I love the movie, but the game felt like an overboard fanboy explosion, trying to cram too much stuff into too little space.
When changing up my pin lineup last year, a local offered me an attractive deal on his 1-owner HUO ECLE.
After not finding any other games on my wish list that were readily available, I sealed the deal. I know lots of serious players whose opinions I respect, & they love the game. I could always resell it or sell it back & wouldn't likely take a loss. Low risk deal--a big plus for me, as this was the most expensive game I ever bought...actually the most expensive *anything* I ever bought, beyond homes & cars.
For a while, I didn't warm up to it. I don't get much time to play, & even if I did, deep ruleset games are not my preferred flavor of pin.
I turned on the ball save, widened the outlanes, & switched it to 5 balls. (Some may scoff, but it made the game much more fun for me & especially my 4-year-old boy.)
Then, after a few months, I started figuring out enough of the basic rules to make the game interesting & challenging.
Now, I think the game is fabulous. My boy loves it. I've melted the witch 3x (twice in one game...which I had to walk away from because I was later for dinner--argh!!!), & that's such a blast that I've experienced on no other machine.
It really really shines in a home environment. For me, playing on location was not very representative at all of playing it in my home.
Moral? If you have room/time/patience, try it out for a while & see if you like it. Hopefully, you buy at a good price so you have the option of reselling, so there's no pressure to make yourself like it.

I wouldnt scoff at all, I did the same things (outlanes, 5 ball, save timer, etc) this game was damn hard when we first got it (still is, but at least I am better now).

2 weeks later
#3792 3 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Seems like lately, when more than one ball is held in the ball lock area, every now & then, the game will release one of them in the middle of my turn, for no reason at all (I think!), giving me an impromptu multiball session. Has only started happening recently.
This ever happen to anyone else? Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance!

When you say "release one of them" do you mean when you hit the ramp?

2 months later
#3988 3 years ago

Two things:

1. my shaker is starting to sound "squeeky" when it activates. haven't lifted the PF yet to look, but if there are any known spots to check or tighten let me know.

2. for me, the one annoying shot has always been the crystal ball, i'd say 75% of the time I get a reject. Any tweak, bend or fix to be done to help?

Been playing it alot more since the 6.5 release, such a nice polished game.

#4028 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I'm debating can get:
-HUO RR (no Rad Cal) is 2 years old but low audit plays (like less than 100 games)
-Brand new RR in the box with Rad Cal built this year
whats the price difference, I mean how much more is the NIB with Rad Cal worth?

I'd beware relying on the audits, you'd have to see the game in person and give it a good inspection. It will be easy to tell if it really has had less than 100 plays. There should essentially be no wear anywhere. lol.

That being said, unless the used one was significantly discounted (for me, it would have to be 1 grand +) if funds allow, I'd go with the NIB. you get the latest light boards and a fresh warranty.

#4031 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

A -used look new but is 2 years old
No warranty
B $1000 more
NIB built within 2-3 months
Rad Cal
2.0 lights

If you are someone that keeps games for a good chunk of time and you have the $$, I would go with B.

If you are someone who likes to keep the line up fresh and tends to swap/sell/replace games often, I would go with the used one (since you wouldnt take much of a hit if you say, resold it next year)

1 week later
#4113 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Thanks, I'm getting a NIB RR, I know that it's better to buy pre-owned if I plan to sell it shortly. But I've a feeling that I will probably keep it so I'm not worried about the immediate devaluation of a new pin.
I know not everyone loves Woz, but I love Tspp and TZ and I love the Woz theme, so I'm betting it will be a keeper.

Have both TSPP and TZ myself. Woz is my fav, as other said, it would be the last to go in my small collection.

#4117 2 years ago
Quoted from WyseGuy:

Wondering if I should change out my Emerald LE for a RR since its been one thing after another since I bought this dang thing

Whats wrong with your ECLE? Personally, I would fix it VS swapping for an RR. ECLE's with the direct print cab, wood apron, etc, etc are really one of a kind.

#4129 2 years ago
Quoted from WyseGuy:

I bought my ECLE a few months ago for $6500 (second hand, HUO) and JJP has been great with support. We have had LED issues and now issues with monkey, skill shot by trees, and the witch. It's hard for me to diagnose as I'm very new to all of this. I need to contact JJP and see if maybe I can ship the machine to them and have them make it perfect for me. Our local pinball guru isn't familiar with JJP machines so he makes me nervous. At this point I'm not real worried about the cost, I just want to play this beauty and have it at 100%.

I dont think shipping it back to JJP would be a wise option, there are going to be things that come up here and there (and you're not going to be able to ship it back every time). If you (or the pinball repair guy you referenced) are down to do a littler learning you can get things fixed up locally.

Like pinballinreno said, just break it down to a list and description of the problems and take care of it one at a time.

2 weeks later
#4160 2 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Just joined yesterday after waiting three loooong years to purchase one! Love the game, but I already have one question:
My buddy and I played a few games on it yesterday, then decided we wanted to move it a little closer to the wall. So we turned it off, moved it, then went to turn it back on about a minute later. Nothing. Cue me having a heart attack. I decided to wait about five minutes and thankfully, the game turned back on.
Why did this happen? Does the game need a "shut down" period when it is turned off? Is something already wrong with my game?

A minute should generally be fine (so not sure if this is the same case in your scenario), but just like a normal PC, you generally dont want to turn it off and then turn it right back on. I usually wait 1 to 2 mins if I need to do that.

#4161 2 years ago

Stumbled on this video from 2014 while looking up Mirco stuff:

#4168 2 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Okay guys, I'm looking for a little advice. I'm really wanting to put a tornado mod in my machine, but I don't know which one to get. Should I go with the Mezel Mods one that lights up? Or the Back Alley one that if I'm not mistaken comes standard on all Ruby Red machines. Both look great, I'm just wondering if anyone here can give me some pros and cons of each. Or, if you know of a different one, let me know about that one as well.
Thanks in advance!

I like the lit one from the mezel's better (mostly because it lights up and looks cool)

2 weeks later
#4228 2 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

When you are checking the fuses I assume you have pulled the interlock coin door switch to test that as well? I had one of those go bad on an arcade once, talk about a waste of time diagnosing that one.

Good point, always good to double check. but if the problem is only with the upper flippers (lowers working fine), my assumption is that this would not be the problem.

#4232 2 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Gotcha. One more thing. Do I have to unzip the update before plugging the USB in? The manual doesn't say anything about that, but the website FAQ says you have to.

Yup, you unzip and stick it on the USB.

2 weeks later
#4338 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Wow, I've never heard of that tip before.

Also reminds me that I should keep spares, heh.

#4341 2 years ago
Quoted from psexton:

I just bought a RR yesterday. This may have already been discussed but I could not find a tread on it. To see the picture on my crystal ball I have to lean over to the right and also lean a little forward. Is there anyway to move/adjust the small monitor so I can more easily see the video in the crystal ball from my normal playing angle/stance?

Not that I am aware of, however, its more of a novelty item (not something you will really be looking at for direction or info while playing) so I wouldnt worry about it.

looks cool though!

2 months later
#4595 2 years ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

Im having the same issue with the ball lock arm. Except when i reset the game it doesn’t fix it. Im a brand new owner. Any help would be appreciated.
Harley D.

Your issue might be diff then. pull the glass and go into test mode. fire the coil for the lock arm with no balls in it. does it work? go to the switch matrix, make sure balls are registering for each position in the lock, do they? Assuming both of these parts are fine.. continue testing, put one ball in the lock, fire the coil.. 2 balls in there, fire the coil.

Report results. trying to figure if something is dead or if the mechanism just needs adjusting.

2 weeks later
#4673 2 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

This game is amazing. The immersion, depth and aesthetic beauty of the machine is unmatched.
Question though. Is my plunger ridiculously weak or is something else amiss? I can’t plunge straight through the orbit. Best I can get is into the top lanes and into the top pops.

Is it hitting anything on its way onto the PF? You should def be able to plunge it around the orbit into the tree pops.

#4713 2 years ago

IF things are randomly strobing, makes me think something is loose somewhere. Does it strobe when you give the cabinet a bit of a shake? You might need to go through each board in the light chain and re-seat power and data connections.

#4717 2 years ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

Sorry it took so long to get back. Fingers crossed everything check out in test mode. So i lowered the incline and i think its fixed. 3 games later and 7 multi balls it looks like its working.

If lowering the incline fixed it, then that tells me it probably is the lock arm that needs to be adjusted. Steeper incline = more pressure on the lock arm = more power needed to lift it.

If you are happy at the current incline, play and be merry, but if you feel you would enjoy it more at a steeper one, let us know (I (or someone) can dig up that lock arm adjustment how-to pic I made way back when)

#4722 2 years ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

Would still like to see your pics. Im always about dialing in my pins. Im thinking this was just a band aid fix. Jjp is so different than what im used to. I appreciate all the help and very thankful to you all.

here is the last time I see the pic pop up:


If you pull the glass and put a ball up the ramp and into the lock, see where the ball rests against the lock arm. The front has a bit of a lip, if its sitting just under the ball, more balls and the steeper incline can some times be too much for the coil magnet to pull up. You can tweak this by bending the lower bracket (that it rests on) up slightly (so that the bottom of the lock arm is a bit closer towards the middle of the ball). The first time I did this I brought it up too much and the balls wouldnt stop/catch (so I would start with just a tiny bit, it may take a few rounds and you'll want to test it before putting glass back on). I just used some slip lock pliers to carefully do the bend. Havent had to play with it since.

#4738 2 years ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

I had this issue and just lube the pole he rides up on with some white lithium grease and you will be good to go!

I ended up cleaning and lightly greasing the threaded rod as well. Solved the noisiness for me.

#4769 2 years ago

Enjoying the update. First game after I stacked Rescue MB, Munchkin mode, Crystal Ball and then ECMB. Such a polished classic pin. Many thanks to everyone @ JJP.

#4770 2 years ago

Only thing a little different I noticed post update (I assume this only stands out to other computer dorks): The GRUB boot menu now shows. Doesn't effect anything, just takes a smidge longer to boot.

#4787 2 years ago
Quoted from agodfrey:

Ok....first big issue im not sure what to do. Game is turned on, gets to JJP splash screen then just says READ ERROR.
Once or twice it would be to a text menu where one option was Umbuntu. Can't remember the others. But now just read error.
I imagine it's a hard drive issue. Hoping it's just a reformat and reload than a replacement thing....

If you happen to have a spare SSD laying around, you can always try swapping and then load the last full install from USB. Lloyd is probably right though (and if that is the case, they'll send you a new drive i assume)

#4833 2 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

Yup, drop target broke. Found the spring in the cabinet. I didn’t even realize this was a modded drop target....

Yeah, that is the mezel mods lit drop target mod. I have the same one (as do many others). Since it is 3D printed, it is not known to be particularly strong/sturdy.

1 week later
#4874 2 years ago
Quoted from dstruked:

hey guys n gals,
I am on day 6 of owning my WOZ ECLE and just got off the phone with JJP support. LED board #15 is dead and a new one is on the way. These are the 5V boards with the buffer modifications done by an authorized JJP technician. I was hoping I would be spared from these issues..... at least for a week or so.
When talking with the tech support at JJP he mentioned that the IC on the drivers is very susceptible to static. I live in Massachusetts and the humidity right now is very low.
Has anyone considered putting a cigar or guitar humidifies in their cabinet to keep the static at bay and help with this problem?

Most will suggest using wizards mist and shine to clean the PF (which has some anti-stat properties) seems odd you'd still be blowing boards if they were buffered. I would also check the quality of power that your getting at the outlet that WOZ is plugged in to. I've heard of others using a power conditioner as well, though I have no clue if that would help.

#4888 2 years ago
Quoted from whitey:

I need the best JJP pinball tech in the bay area CA,thanks for any Help

What kinda problems are you having?

#4894 2 years ago
Quoted from Fika:

A newbie question that I can't seem to find in the forums. There's a number that displays on the LCD screen, right after the end of the game when "Match" and the tornado displays. What is it?

Welcome to the hobby. If the numbers match (I believe with the last digit of your score) you get a free game. Fun to have happen on location, but a snoozer at home on free play. Happy new years.

#4897 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

How can you say the match is a snoozer at home? Every time it happens, I have a mini heart attack thinking something hit and cracked my screen.

Probably more a me thing, I have them disabled here, was freaking my wife out when they would knock.

Although, funny story. When I got my first pin (TSPP) and it happened the first time (it had been a loooooooong time since I had played) it freaked everyone out and we thought the game was broken. lol.

#4913 2 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

Thanks for sharing, great idea

And thats for the whole assy, all you would need is the bare upper PF which should be much cheaper, swap it out and you are good to go.

That being said, if some chipping there is all that is holding you back, like lordless said, get the seller to discount it the cost of the bare upper PF, get it and enjoy it! Unless there is a cliffy on that PF edge, your going to see wear there. The Glinda tarket is really the only airball spot that I know of on the PF, it is common.

#4916 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Im having some trouble dialling in my lock down bar settings.
I have had it working perfectly in the past.
I had to squeeze the bracket a little to get the arm closer to the magnet so that it would grab a little firmer (when 3 balls rest on the end the arm wouldnt raise as it had sagged a bit over time).
It seems to pinch the last ball of 3 when starting a multiball/
I bent the bar adjustment tab up 1/2 mm but more than that will allow the balls to escape when they run thru the huts.
Adjusting the times has had little effect.
This sure is a delicate and fine adjustment and has me stumped.
I have it working fairly well but it can stick a ball under the arm once in awhile, Smacking the cab releases it usually.
Any stories out there on what you did to get it working mostly perfectly (other than setting it to virtual)?

I did the same adjustment as you. it was a little trial and error but once I got it I havent had to mess with it since (maybe 2 years ago or so). I would try another round of adjusting and if that still doesnt so it, open up a ticket with JJP support.

#4920 2 years ago
Quoted from Frogman:

You're probably right and I should have thought about that. This is my first NIB machine and for some reason I didn't think of it in the same context as the older ones in my collection since there are so many settings and a lot of newer technology....but many mechanisms are the same. Thanks for responding.

WackyBrakke has it, you just need to see which switch is too sensitive and adjust it (just bend it slightly to that the contacts are a little further apart).

#4927 2 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

The area in your last picture to the left of the triangle insert. You have a cliffy on yours so no issue. I have looked at 2013 run games with no cliffy and thousands of plays with no issue. All the 2.0 games I have looked at have the chipping with very little play.

Coincidence, you can potentially see that wear on any WOZ without that cliffy (2.0 or not)

#4929 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I know....I really gotta get that protector and put it on our RRWOZ....ugh.

Meh, I dont have it on mine. Yes there is some wear there. I have an alternative idea on how to protect the spot that I am going to try (and will share once complete).

#4942 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Opinions wanted.
Leave it alone and just play (and replace the whole mini pf at a later date)
Put mylar down in that area and play
Put mylar down and get the cliffy
Other: please specify

Play and enjoy it.

Then at some point:

A: Order a bare upper PF from JJP (I assume cheaper than the whole assembly they sell on the site) and stow it away for a later date.

B: touch up the yellow and the black line, maybe put a little clear over it, cliffy it up and leave it be.

2 weeks later
#5009 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

I was able to escape the light issues for some time (on the 1.75 boards) but I noticed this recently. What's weird is that all the lights work and change color during the tests so it's not like there is a few that are out and I can tell easily what the culprit is.
What's happening is the lights will be on and then all of a sudden the majority start flickering white really fast. One thing I did notice was when I put all lights on white, all but 1, 2, 4, 8, 10, 18 and 20 turn white. Those turn blue except for 4 and 8 which turn purple. Lights that are on the w6 board seem to not be effected at all.
Any thoughts or experience that others have faced seeing this before? I ended up jumping 8 but no luck. Also jumped 3 no luck. Regrouping!
» YouTube video

Mine has done this spontaneously in the past. (re-seating both power and data connections on the board seemed to solve it for me)

When all lights are white, its drawing the most power (all three LED's on each board at full brightness) generally speaking, if this is the time when things go wonky the most, I am thinking loose cable or poor connection between pins some where.

Pop that sucker up and disconnect/re-connect the cables to the light boards (I would do them all) to make sure they have a good connection.

That's where I would start.

3 weeks later
#5106 2 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Did it again today. It’s not the monitor it’s the entire Game shuts off except the back glass light and coin door bulbs.
I’ll double check it’s not an issue with my 120v since I have a few things on the citvuit including my coke machine

Hrmm, makes me think its something with the power supply board (or a loose power cable as others have said). There are a few different versions (I know they updated it midway through the ECLE, they swapped mine due to similar issues). I would open a ticket with JJP and they can have you check a few things.

2 weeks later
#5220 2 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Easy enough to find, using the Search feature. But yeah, meh...whatever.
Long story short, Automated lied to me & said whatever they had to say to make the sale. Sent me a WOZ75 from before the 2.0 upgrade when I SPECIFICALLY AND EXPLICITLY stated I only wanted to purchase a newer machine manufactured after 12.15.16, and explained WHY. They swore to me up and down that it was one of the brand new ones. When I opened it up and saw it was not, they changed their story and said there was no way they could have known the Manufacture Date. I wound up having a TON of problems with that particular unit which were unrelated to the lighting system. JJP took care of me and made everything right, but no thanks to Automated. Used car salesman tactics. Screw them.

I remember seeing your posts about that. That was F--d up for sure.

#5234 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It looks like its trying to boot a complete OS image from the flash drive.
Are you trying to boot from a USB flash drive to install the operating system? If not it should be removed. If you are then the USB flash drive might be incompatible somehow of have a corrupt image on it. (make a new one or use a different brand USB stick)
Is the SSD drive connected and in good order?
Is the ssd drive the first boot device in the CMOS settings on the mainboard?
Do you have a USB keyboard to check the settings of the PC?
I would call support and get a walk thru if you need some help.

This ^^ It's booting off the USB. What happens when you take the USB stick out? does the game boot (the SSD)?

#5235 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I've had that problem before but that's not the case here (or if it is it is outside the normal troubleshooting steps), the flickering I've resolved a couple times with repairing connectors and solder joints as well as a couple boards.

You need to figure out if all those boards are bad, or if it's something else.

Try swapping a good GI board from elsewhere with one of the problem ones. Does it work? or does it exhibit the same problem?

#5245 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Also, it would be nice if a discount could be provided if the old boards are returned.

this ^^^

1 week later
#5273 2 years ago

thnx for bringing this up, forgot about the mobo CMOS battery.

#5289 2 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

I need help w/ my WOZ.
I fired it up for the first time in at least 4 months. On fire-up, the monkey came half way down and stopped. I re-booted....the monkey came down 9/10 of the way and stopped again. I rebooted again, the monkey moved down to it's lowest point, and stopped. I can't get it to go back up where it belongs. What do I need to do?

Wondering if the lead screw/rod needs to be cleaned/greased. I assume if the action isnt smooth enough, or if there is some binding that it will stop and go back.