(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

7 years ago

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9 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (7 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (4 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (2 years ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (2 years ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (2 years ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (2 years ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #11015 Adjustment advice for the monkey Posted by LTG (8 months ago)

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#5777 2 years ago

Hi everyone,

This is my first post on Pinside, I received my WOZ Ruby red 2 weeks ago, put in 500 plays since them, and loving that fantastic pinball. I had a STTNG for years, had to sell it a while ago and I must say that WOZ is a major step forward in countless ways.
I bought it from The Pinball Company, Nic and Brooke have been of great help and service along the way.

In short, but nothing new there, I've never seen a game with that many things to do, and I keep discovering new modes along the way. I really like the "open world" approach where there are tons of paths to get to the wizard mode. The game is fast, all the shots are rewarding and there seems to be enough to do to keep me busy for a while. Kudos to JJP for that one, I wanted to buy a NIB pinball but didn't want to get a Stern, I'm just not a big fan of the feel and don't believe much in having a Stern for life wether for maintenance or gameplay, so JJP is a blessing.

I had a few issues with it, 2 led boards died and my crystall ball was freezing. I sorted out the Crystal ball, the SD card wasn't well inserted so it was losing contact.
As to the led boards, I got help from JJP support to understand the string concept on the first one, then got the concept and sorted out the second one myself. The cool thing with that string compared to my old STTNG is that it takes out so many lights at once that it forced me to work on it right away, where on the TTNG I was waiting to have a bunch of lights out before resolving myself to work on it. A gift in disguise I guess.

What else to say, JJP support team is super reactive and efficient, maintenance has been a breeze so far and playing that pinball is immensely satisfying. I've always been a big fan of the Wizard of Oz movie and this pinball truly brings the movie to the playfield, they did a very good job at implementing the them with a great attention to details.

I've been "working from home" for 3 days now, and quite frankly I haven't worked much !

#5803 2 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

Anyone install the 2.0 conversion kit yet? Having a hell of a time moving my ELCE because it has the old boards. Might just keep it and convert it to 2.0 but am interested in hearing how hard/intense the install was.

I didn't know a conversion kit was out, can you post a link. I've had a few led boards that died so far, nothing too annoying as it's the GI's and they are easy to trace and replace, but I surely wouldn't mind being done for good with changing them.

#5814 2 years ago

I need a little help here, or at least to know if it's common. I'm getting a lot of airballs, some of them hit the glass in a loud noise, no damage but it forces me in game to avoid hitting fast balls right away and instead to hold them on the flipper just in fear they would go flying.

Pretty much every ball that comes down straight from the top of the playfield goes in the air if hit directly. My pinball is slightly tilted down because I wanted to get a bit more speed and because I had a lot of balls that were diverted when touching the characters rollovers.

#5819 2 years ago

I said slightly

#5820 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

I like a pitch closer to 7 myself. I get an occasional airball but it’s rare. If your getting constant airballs ofd the flippers check the positioning of your rubbers.

Thank you, that was it ! I noticed (what happens when you don't look), that the right rubber was sideways and almost touching the top of the flipper. I put it back in place and.... all is back in place !

#5829 2 years ago

I need some help again, my castle flipper often stays stuck up and it takes a few hits on the button, or for the ball to roll on it for it to lower again.
When it goes down it stays a bit up, I'm adding a picture to show it, it's subtle but noticeable.

What should I look for ? And any chance I won't need to remove the playfield to fix ?

IMG-3424 (resized).JPG
#5831 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

No. Looks like it wants a new plunger assembly, coil sleeve, and coil stop.
LTG : )

But it's brand new, and I swear I didn't torture it more than hitting balls with it

#5833 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Then the return spring may have broke. Or plunger assembly is binding. Or coil stop is loose. Or flipper bat needs a little up and down play so it isn't binding on the pawl below the playfield.
LTG : )

Is there some things I can check prior to removing the playfield ? It's annoying but still playable, so if I can diagnose without removing it then I can wait for the spare part(s) to arrive and do the job in a day.

#5840 2 years ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

Long shot, but check to see if the orange flipper rubber isn’t rubbing against the castle wall. Look for orange dust in the area. Happened to me, had to dremal off a small portion of wall where it was rubbing. Otherwise there’s probably a mechanical problem as Lloyd pointed out.

I totally see how this could happen. There's less than an inch between the rubber and the castle wall on mine, It doesn't seem to touch but it's so close that I wonder if when a ball hits the rubber it doesn't move the flipper a bit, it's really really tight.

#5845 2 years ago
Quoted from Crile1:

I actually didn't believe it was true, but I hit enough loops around the house and these two little feet popped out. I actually laughed out loud and my ball drained. It sounds corny, but this game is delightful. So much fun.

I had no idea there were feet in that house, until I took a closer look and realized there was a door on the house. Then I tried a ton of times to get the feet but couldn't until I started looking online and saw a tutorial to calibrate the house rotation so the feet are not blocked.

I see feet now, and it's the coolest little detail to this already awesome game.

#5849 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Have you guys had good support from JJP with issues? I keep hearing they are the best in the industry, but I'm yet to see that. I called about 2 weeks ago, about 3 times, and always went to VM. I left a message and have heard nothing? Maybe there is a secret I am missing?

I'm very impressed with JJP support, they are fast, responsive, efficient, really awesome job there. I usually start by opening a ticket on their support page, and eventually call directly using the directory on their voice mail.

I know they did a whole inventory in the last 10 days and the support team was involved in it, so it might be why you haven't heard back.

#5854 2 years ago
Quoted from Crile1:

I'm sure its deep in this thread somewhere, but does anyone have a fix for ball getting stuck in the back left corner or the left orbit?

It happens to me once in a while, the only fix I found is to shake the pinball a bit which does the job.

#5856 2 years ago

Just curious about who managed to get the SOTR wizard mode, around how many plays it took you to get there, and what difficulty level / number of balls / outlane settings you play in ?

I just feel like I'm a galaxy away from getting there, and although I do manage to get a couple of the requirements at each game, I still wonder how to get them all

#5861 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I get all but one emerald all the time.
It's the rescue multiball one that is near impossible.

I found a way to keep the rescue multiball going without having multi balls on the playfield, but I don't know if it goes in the cheating category or not. I would think not, since it's totally in game. Basically if you shoot two balls in a row to the castle VUK, the first one will go up while the second stays stuck on the drop target. As long as you don't hit the target the ball stays there while still in multiball.

#5865 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Stuck ball exploits are a cheat per tournament rules.
So yes it's a cheat. Sorry.
However since one can cheat at home, just manually get the gem with the glass off.
Drain the ball, put the glass back on and continue the game.
Take a video of your success post on youtube.

I'm not familiar with tournaments, so thanks for the info !

I would never remove a ball with the glass off though, now that would be cheating

#5889 2 years ago
Quoted from Backdoc01:

Hi WOZ family,
I've owned this game for a few months now. There are a few lights on this playfield that I do not understand. The first one is the arrow on the munchkin play field. It varies in color from red to blue to green. Sometimes it's flashing sometimes it still. I'm not sure what it means or what it represents. The second light is the owls face right below the haunted lights. Sometimes it's on sometimes is off. Not sure when or why. If anybody can help would greatly appreciate it.

To make it easier to start haunted mode when it flashes, pressing the 2 flipper buttons will deactivate the bumpers so the ball can get to the VUK. Discovering this finally allowed me to get the haunted multiball.

#5895 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Yes, and it can be set to only work when the Haunted Mode is lit, always, or never.

Good to know. Mine came default with haunted mode lit, and it's fine like that.

The other setting I'm wondering about is the magnet that stops the ball on top of the Oz lanes, it helps getting the witch but it makes it more difficult to get the haunted house multiball.

#5917 2 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

I think Im going to go for it. I played a WOZ briefly at local arcade, and it was fun! 1.00 a game, but it was fun! So Im going to order a RR WOZ with radcals.. now gotta figure out how to get it into the house without wife noticing again. She hasn't noticed my Alien yet

Go for it, it really is a fantastic pinball. Mine now has close to 1000 games and I got it 2 months ago

#5932 2 years ago

I have a 7,5V buffered version, got a few boards that died, but it's a breeze to fix and JJP is super helpful and reactive in sending replacement parts, added to the fact that it's a fantastic game I wouldn't worry too much about the boards.

The biggest concern to me is how the early release had no mylar protection anywhere which will inevitably damage the playfield, I would look more on that part than as a biggest long term concern.

1 week later
#5979 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

nepi23 I just installed full Titan rubbers on mine. It’s all about the right tools. To answer your question no you don’t have to remove the ramp or the castle playfield. The ones near the top rollovers are the toughest. I just loosened the right ramp so I could lift it slightly. Also you will probably need to remove the metal Spacers to allow more room. I used a combination of a long screw driver and an short 90 degree angled one. For the sling under the munchkin playfield here is a good video

I just replaced the rubber of the sling under the playfield, my biggest hassle was the nut under the ramp as I didn't want to remove the ramp. What took me the longest time was the back and forth trips to the hardware store to find the right tool. Screw driver wouldn't pass, wrench was too long etc...

I would surely be interested in getting a list of must have tools from the Woz veterans

#5982 2 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

What was the one that worked for you in this instance?

There's one nut under the ramp that's really hard to reach, I couldn't get it with the nut driver, so I used a flat flexible wrench to reach it (this tool is magic actually !) and a bent plier to pull the rubber in place (I have big fingers though, not the best for pinball maintenance !)

flat wrench (resized).jpeg
#5984 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

What size is the wrench?

9mm. I didn't check the other nuts, but I do hope all of them are the same size !

1 week later
#6011 2 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

just wondering if anyone has seen this problem. About 1 out of every 10 games the ball doesn't make it onto the upper castle play field. The VUK fires fine and the ball enters the wireworm, but actually comes through the wire form and bounces back onto the main play field. Its odd to me that the ball would actually fit through the wire form but it does (right at the 90 degree bend).

That's odd. I checked on mine and there is no way the ball would fit, can you take pictures I think yours is misplaced, have you ever moved it ?

1 week later
#6043 2 years ago
Quoted from knobstone:

Found it interesting that Jack announced at Vancouver the sales numbers for his games:
1. Wizard of Oz - 4,000
2. Hobbit - 2,000
3. Dialed In - 1,600

I'd be curious about the breakdown between operators and home use owners. 1$ a game does make it seem hard to make a profit and for some reasons, unlike arcade, when 2 pinballs are next to each other the difference in value that would explain a higher game price doesn't jump up to people's mind.

#6044 2 years ago

The more it goes the more I wish Dorothy was actually singing SOTR especially because I love this song. I understand there's a story with rights to get the song, but I'm wondering if there's a way to replace the sound file with its equivalent but home made with the song. I'm not looking at messing anymore with the code, but this would be a really cool mod.

1 week later
#6076 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Pat:

Hi guys, I'm back in the club. I had a standard a couple years ago and mad a couple trades to get a Smaug Edition Hobbit. I just never found another game like WOZ over the years and managed to trade my Hobbit for a RRWOZ
My question is, "Did these machines always come with the printed manuals?" The person I received my game from said they never received one. I wonder if JJP has a record of this if they were sending them out after the fact or something?
Thanks for the tips.

My RRWOZ came with a signed printed manual, bought it new through a distributor, manufacture date December 2016. I also remember reading that the manual was one of the RR perks.

#6084 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Pat:

Hi guys, my new RRWOZ is up and playing 100% One little tweak I had to make was to my "Left" haunted tree. It seemed to be clashing with the PF guide under the playfield. The tree was hitting something making a metallic sound and not going down. I shimmed up the left mounting screw of the tree pop bumper with 4 flat washers, this tipped the guts of the tree to the inside of the cabinet and it now clears the rail. ***I am guessing it was the guide rail, couldn't really see.
This happen to anyone else, any different solutions?

This bumper annoys me everytime I lift the playfield. He gets blocked when putting it down. I just hold it a bit tilted to the right when lowering the playfield and he comes back perfectly in place

#6107 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Bump! Anybody here who has made a playfield swap - and better yet if that would have been your first swap. It would be nice to hear how difficult it was. I am planning on making the swap, but this would be my first swap and WOZ is full of stuff, so I am gathering courage. I have installed several playfield protectors and detached the playfield from cabinet many times when carrying the pins to downstairs, so I have some experience atleast in regard of those activities.

I'm curious, why are you looking at doing a playfield swap ? Is yours worn out ? If yes could you send pictures and tell me how many games it has.

1 week later
#6145 2 years ago

Has anyone considered replacing the rather loud fans with other alternatives ? Back in the days I was into CRT projectors, that were super loud, so we replaced many fans with Pabst one, who were known to be silent without losing efficiency. I'm considering doing the same in my WOZ.

These fans look interesting : https://www.quietpc.com/gel-silent8

1 week later
#6152 2 years ago

I've never noticed it before, as in I can't tell if it always was like that or appeared recently, but at the intersection of the 2 ramps, the ball on the lower ramp slightly rubs on the bottom of the top ramp, it slows down the ball a bit.

Can you tell me if you have the same on yours, if not I guess I'm in for adding a washer to lift the top one up.

IMG-4018 (resized).JPG
#6169 2 years ago

Today I narrowed the right outlane to the easy setting, I've put probably too much considerations and remorse in doing this, feeling I wasn't up to the game. Truth is that machine is so heavy that nudging it takes a semi-truck force, and I was loosing way too many balls on that outlane, which was both frustrating and exciting.

So I decided to go for the easy route and I'm very happy with it, less frustration, more game, getting closer to SOTR and still losing a bunch of balls in that outlane.

This was my confession of the day !

#6173 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Those outlanes are brutal. Put both of mine on easy after a month or two as well. I’ve since put the right outlane back to default and am considering putting the left one back as well.

So you put back the right one to normal. Interesting I did the exact opposite. I find the right outlane to be unfair, I lose a lot of balls on it after hitting the witch or the right bumper.

2 weeks later
#6265 2 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Ok. Thank you. I'm out now but will try to figure if those things work when I get back or tomorrow morning.

Dont worry too much about it, it’s not very hard to fix and you will quickly learn how to diagnose fast and fix faster.

I freaked out on my brand new WOZ where a bunch of small gi boards died within the first 2 weeks. I replaced them, had one more dead right after, fixed it and havent had any single issue with leds after that.

During that time JJP support has been nothing but awesome which in the long run is what really matters.

#6280 2 years ago
Quoted from chalkup8:

I can vouch for that !! Bought NIB Aug 2017 WOZ 75.
Four light boards failed.OZ lane sling rubber broke early.Right castle door not opening.Speaker hum fix(local $12 part from electronics store Jaycar)
Once I worked through those bugs with the friendly help from JJP, the game has been solid.I love stepping up to it now.

Oh yes, I forgot the hum in my list ! Probably the worst issue of all, and the fastest to fix . It was a good surprise though, although loosing the hum just made me focus more on the fan noise. Changing the fans is my next scheduled project, that noise is really annoying for home use, especially with the pin in my dining room !

#6282 2 years ago

I need your advice on my leg levels. I just got the pinguy levelling app, set angle at 6.5, did the calibration until I got the perfectly aligned message.

I ended up moving the back too a much higher level, almost at the end of the screw, where the fronts are quite low. It seems odd to me so I wonder if I did something wrong on the way.

Here's a picture of my front and back legs, any help appreciated (as always !)

image_67152129 (resized).JPGimage_67190017 (resized).JPG
#6284 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You leveled on the playfield right?
Not on the glass, never on the glass.
The adjusters look ok to me.
I have my woz at 6.3 degrees. I think it plays correctly there, after dialling in all of the settings, and the ball is still fast.
I take the nuts off the front levelers and put them on the top of the screw, or leave them off.
This way you can get the fronts down a little more.

Yes I levelled on the playfield at 6.5. I played a couple games, it does feel much better I must say.


#6286 2 years ago
Quoted from SDpinballer:

Mine is also right about 6.3. Plays really nice there. Front legs way down and backs way up too. The pics look very similar to my set up.

I've played around 30 games with my now levelled WOZ, it may sound like pushing open doors, but the change in gameplay is impressive. I'm very happy I did that, and want to thank pin guy for that great levelling app.

I can now swap the ball between the flippers with ease, the throne room is easier to reach, same with the B from Ball on the left side. Also I'm more successful at getting the skill shot in the haunted forest. All together the lower part of the playfield is now much more playable.

My pinball has been installed 4 months ago by a "professional", so I've always assumed they did the setup properly. That was a mistake, lesson learned !

#6288 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Was it too flat or not leveled side to side?

It was too flat by a wide margin and very slightly tilted to the right.

#6295 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

I think most WOZ detractors whom have played it got stuck playing one not leveled properly. Some games can handle being somewhat out of level and play pretty good. WOZ is pretty sensitive to leveling and can be a totally different game when not leveled.

More than 100 games in now I couldnt agree more with you. It’s like I’m rediscovering my game and now feel SOTR is actually doable.

JJP should put a big note on the box stating how crucial levelling is.

1 week later
#6305 2 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I haven't played WOZ in a few months (with all of the updates on TH and DI holding my interest). Played it tonight to test out a mod and battled the witch twice in one game and beat her on the second attempt for my first time ever - we've had the pin for about 3.5 years. That felt great and was cool to finally see that fanfare. What's after that? The encore multiball (whatever that is called) after beating the witch had a bunch of lights flashing different colors on the inserts and I shot for and got a few of the white diamonds, but I didn't know what I should do at that point. After that multi-ball, it went back to normal. Never really payed attention to all the hoopla about it before as I had to beat the witch as my short term goal. What a rush! Now my wife is pouting because she had the grand champ score for the last few months and I went past her score. She just has to try some more.

Nice ! I've had my WOZ for 5 months now, and I get to the witch fight quite often but haven't been able to complete it yet. I had one shot left once, and of course the ball decided it was the right time to drain.

I do hope it won't take me 3 years to get there as I'm hoping to do SOTR by then, but I haven't collected one single diamond so far, really need to get my stuff together and practice !

1 week later
#6338 2 years ago

Has anyone installed that mod ? It's a throne room lcd screen that does look really cool. My problem is the pictures make it look like the frame is obstructing the view of the right flipper, which might be annoying to play. I'm wondering if it's just the picture of if it is annoying.

#6343 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

With that mod I am guessing you no longer can look at the throne room light (flashing) to know when an award is ready to collect.

Oh you are probably right I didnt think about that. Thanks !

1 week later
#6378 2 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I just bought a set for my WOZ ECLE on Black Friday and Scott told me that he is sending a special connector with it for WOZ only … not sure if that connector is meant for the flasher or the GI. It's in the mail and I haven't received it yet.

Keep us in touch, I'm considering getting a set but I don't want it to be on permanently, lights out mode plays great because all lights are out (except the throne room, and I still hope it gets fixed on the next code), same with TNPLH although It feels they changed the way the playfield used to turn Sepia, which was really impressive.

1 month later
#6452 2 years ago

I have the opposite issue with the monkey magnet, he seems to be not powerful enough to grab the balls. It happens randomly so I'm wondering if balls can lose their "magnetism" in time or if I need to look elsewhere.

Thanks for the help

1 week later
#6525 2 years ago
Quoted from indybru:

After playing some mediocre games I cleaned and waxed the play field. First game back was 1,200,000 which is excellent for me. I keep a log about 150-200 plays or 3 months intervals for my games. Big difference.

What did you use to wax ? I’ve been very frustrated lately with barely making it past 200.000, who knows I might not suck at it after all it could be wax !

#6554 2 years ago
Quoted from Swainer80:

Looking to join the club in the next few of months or so. Just curious, when did the 2.0 boards come out? Was it with all the 75th RR editions back in 2015, a certain ECLE number, a certain build date or what? I'm debating buying preowned or just biting the bullet and going new.

The WOZ documentation says that all the machines manufactured after December 15th 2016 have the 2.0 boards. But I wouldn't worry that much about it, mine was built right before (I didn't choose, I just didn't know), and after a couple dead GIs within the first few wekks, I have not had any issues with them since then. I know it's a hit or miss, and it's fairly random, so don't take my personal experience for more than a personal experience.

#6567 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Use P21S or Blitz wax, both pure caranuba waxes. Wizards is not a wax but is good for in between cleanings.
I usually find waxing makes my scores go down for a while because everything gets so fast, but YMMV.

So I got the wax, I was about to start the job then realized I have no idea what cloth to use. Any help appreciated !

#6575 2 years ago
Quoted from Wanderers:

Thanks for your help darkryder ( Jeremy ) iv made contact with the guy you got your rainbow board from. Iv also enquired with paddyLV on here in the cost of replacing all the boards to the latest version.
Lloyd has been a superb representative for JJP on here and fully appreciate my issue is out of Lloyds hands.
But I have to say I am very very dissapointed with service and very poor relations from Jersey Jack Pinball, I have sent numerous emails through there support system and also directly. I have rang most days over the last three weeks but nothing only answer machines of which iv left messages.
Such a shame a great product but very poor relations. Please Jersey Jack Pinball remember people like me are your bread and butter so to speak, and if satisfied will always come back for more.

Seems to me that Lloyd being here and responding to every JJP questions is quite an exemple of great customer services.

#6577 2 years ago
Quoted from Wanderers:

Fair point and a great credit to Lloyd, but some issues are out of his hands and you would assume the way to go is through the correct channels, direct to Jersey Jack Pinball, would it not.

Lloyd is JJP. Between him and JJP customer service I haven’t had any issue or replacement parts that haven’t been solved within a few days. All under warranty and with enough tech explanation to make me self sufficient with troubleshooting so far.
This WOZ thread is also a huge knowledge base.
I don’t deny you have a different experience and respect it too, but I wanted to share my perspective on being a happy JJP customer.

#6584 2 years ago
Quoted from Gotfrogs:

I have had my NIB WOZ for about two weeks now and just had one of the rubbers break on me. It is #11 at the top of the playfield. Mine was white but the manual says it is a 2" black ring. I would guess these kinds of things are considered wear items and not covered by a warranty but is it normal for them to break so quckly? This is my first pin, where do you recomend purchasing a replacement? Are thre higher quality ones that I should use? Thansk![quoted image]

I had this exact same one that broke within a month. I contacted JJP support, they sent me a replacement for free, and a tutorial to replace it without removing the munchkin playfield (a hassle you surely want to avoid). It took me 20 minutes to do it, the new rubber has been up and running for 6 months now.

1 week later
#6628 2 years ago

What are your thoughts on changing balls ? I see a lot of people change them every 500 plays, and read some comments regarding the poor quality of JJP balls although it's not much documented. My balls are perfectly clean and shiny after 1500 plays.

Is there any reasons to change them ? Or anything to look for specifically that says it's time to change them ?

#6632 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

1500 plays you should replace the balls. When you get the new ones compare them to the old ones.
JJP uses very good balls, standard high carbon pinballs. They are just fine and low magnetism.
It's not the shinyness we are looking at.
Its surface deformation.
Look at your balls under a jeweler's loupe you will see flat spots and cuts.
Theses surface deformations grind the clearcoat to a fogged surface over time.
Certainly the playfield can be buffed out to clear again, but changing balls makes the playfield last and look new a lot longer.
40000 plays without wax and changing balls removes the playfield art.
Have a look at any location game that has zero maintenance.
You will see unneccessary wear.
After purchase pinball games will still be played 30 or more years from now.
They will look great with a little maintenance.

Thanks for the explanation. I surely am interested in keeping my playfield perfect, so I'm sold !

What balls do you get ?

#6649 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Get these
Get 3 tubes so you can change them again in 400 plays.
And wax the playfield and ramp with blitz if you haven't already

Thanks ! I've just placed my order and added Novus 1 and 2 for cleaning, a bunch cleaning cloths and some grease for the monkey. Looking forward to maintenance day !

#6651 2 years ago

Use Novus 1 for plastics but avoid 2 for a few years/decades. That’s for scratches, esp for restorations, not regular cleaning and polishing. Use Wizards Mist and Shine on the play field to clean and polish. JJP recommends this for anti static and pf care. This makes waxing a little much, methinks. Wizards does the trick.

I took Millwax for polishing, is that a bad choice ?

#6656 2 years ago

Ok, I cancelled millwax and got mist and shine. Thanks !

#6659 2 years ago

It’s what JJP says so might as well! I use it on the Free Gold Watch WOZ which has like tens of thousands of plays and is still shiny, home use you should be gold.

Funny you mention, I played the WOZ at Free Gold Watch because I was wondering how it would hold in time, and I was impressed at how clean it was ! I go there usually once a week to get my shot of 90's SS, I should probably introduce myself somedays !

#6689 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Correct. It basically drops the ball immediately. In fact, I guess I need to look more closely - I can see the ball move around so I know the monkey magnet is activated, but I’m not sure the ball ever really gets off the playfield

I have the exact same issue it started last week. I checked everything I could, switches, connectors and monkey settings but I didnt find anything wrong.

It doesnt happen all the time though, so I start to wonder if it could be related to one of the balls. Im getting a new set of balls tomorrow Ill see if it helps and will report

#6708 2 years ago

I've received my maintenance kit ! New balls, Mist n shine for the playfield, Lubriplate for the moving parts and Novus 1 to clean the plastics, the ramp is clean and transparent so I don't plan on touching it, but all the targets are quite black, I'm sure they'll appreciate a good clean up.

1 week later
#6744 2 years ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

Just out of curiosity because I cannot find it although I know it must be posted somewhere... When did they start putting the newer boards in the machines? I bought mine new in March of 2017. Was that after they came out with the newer LED system?

It doesn’t matter when you bought it, it’s the build date on the back of the pinball that matters. I bought mine nib in march 2018 but it was built a week before they started putting the 2.0 boards, december 15th 2016

#6755 2 years ago

I replaced the ball and used mist n shine to clean the playfield. I’m very happy with the results but I still have these little white stains (visible above the light reflection) that I couldnt get rid of scrubbing with mist n shine. Any idea how to clean those ?

C0D2DF8E-1244-4BEE-98A3-53D2E8341FBE (resized).jpeg
#6760 2 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Wow! Did you buy from Automated Services? This would not surprise me.

Nope, I got mine from The Pinball Company. I did ask to make sure it was a 2.0 and got confirmed it was a 2.0. It's only when I unboxed it that I realized it was a 7,5v buffered. At that point I could probably have returned it, but I really loved the game, I didn't feel like repacking it and shipping it back and the word was out that it was hard to find NIB Woz, so I kept it.

In the few weeks after I had a bunch of led boards that died, which made me think I shouldn't have kept it, but after replacing a few it's been running like a charm since then, so it's a keeper.

#6765 2 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Trying to change my WOZ settings so the game plays as close to default settings as possible. Seems like there's 1 default score award at 30k points that awards an extra ball. That point value seems low but maybe that's how the programmer designed it? Also changed ball save to off which is the default setting.
I used to have extra balls given out at 500k and 1 million points along with a 7 second ball save time but after seeing some long running games I prefer the game to be at default settings.

30k for an extra ball is quite low. My default setting is auto, and in that mode, I've never seen eb below 130k.

1 week later
#6782 2 years ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Looking to join the club, considering buying a NIB with 2.0 boards WOZ. Prices on used WOZ seem way too high to me considering majority of them don’t have 2.0 boards. $7500-$8000 for a used plus shipping plus another $800 and 12 hours of work installing 2.0 boards, or buy a new one for about $9500 delivered. From reading people seem to indicate it’s not a matter of if but when the 5.5 or 7.5 boards will fail earlier than they should, and people selling with only a few hundred plays seem of the impression their 5.5/7.5 boards will never fail early since they haven’t failed yet, so therefore will never need 2.0. Am I crazy?

I have a 7,5v version and now close to 2000 games. I had 2 GIs board that died within the first 2 weeks and nothing else since then. I added a voltage regulator not sure if it helped or not but havent had any issue since then.

So I would say get a 2.0 if you can it’s clearly better but a 7,5 is not a sure path to issues either.

#6784 2 years ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Thanks for the feedback. For now I've decided to wait and see if there is going to be a new YBR version or whatnot that is announced at TPF, and if I like what I see I'll just buy that through Kingpin/Chris!

That's the right thing to do. There has been tons of rumours on that YBR version, some say it will be stripped off some features, others don't, so best option is to wait and see the reveal. I love my Ruby Red, but a Yellow version would surely make me reconsider !

#6789 2 years ago

I posted that question in the wrong thread, moving it here. I lubricated the monkey and the witch, It was a very good idea as my monkey doesn't have problems catching the ball anymore and it doesn't make any noise moving.

I wanted to lubricate the castle doors, if they need it, but looking at them I dont know where or how to lubricate them. Help appreciated

#6794 2 years ago

Oh I didnt lube one half of my monkey actually.

Thanks Lloyd, will lube this weekend

#6796 2 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

Is there a LINK to get the lube for the monkey? I wanna lube it too.

I lube with this one

It’s clean, not greasy and it’s dense enough that you can lube without spilling everywhere.

1 week later
#6840 2 years ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

Need some suggestions to a problem I keep having that I am sure others have had as well...
So does anyone have any experience using a glue to hold these slippers on the flipper that actually works long term?
Thanks in advance for any and all responses!!

How is your playfield angle ? I never broke a flipper or come close to it so two in a row seems really odd.

1 week later
#6885 2 years ago

Rare picture of a specie on the edge of extinction !

3112322A-0F5A-48B1-9747-95633E60EDA1 (resized).jpeg
#6889 2 years ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Odd question - anyone know the BOX dimensions of the WOZ RR machines? I'm referring to the shipping box they come in.

The box is fairly usual, what is very surprising and unexpected when you get it delivered is how damn heavy it is. I remember calling two friends once I tried lifting the box with the delivery guy, and 4 of us was still a painful time !

#6973 2 years ago
Quoted from SpinnerAddict:

Speaking about the monkey... mine randomly picks the ball up but then never drops it. If I flip a flipper it drops. Happens once every couple of games. Anyone have this issue?

Same here, it didn’t bother me much, but since a piece of mylar can fix it, I’ll do it.

Also there’s a bunch of WOZ that popped up on the market, there might be more YBR fans than we all thought

#7028 2 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

My RR shipping out soon, they are putting radcals. Can't wait! The lowest quote they could get me for inhome delivery was 550! 550!

I got the same quote, and was very close to get a truck and pick it up myself. I ended up being very happy to stick with in home delivery and setup once I saw how heavy WOZ is and the pain it took to set it up !

#7066 2 years ago
Quoted from lurch:

Thanks! Mine just broke today. Pretty easy fix!

I changed that one a couple months ago, I was totally freaking out about taking of the mini playfield, but this tutorial video saved my life.

One advice though, the nut above the top left playfield (plastic part 14) is really tough to reach. After 30 minutes of struggle, I went to the hardware shop and got a flexible flat wrench like this one and did the job in 1 mn.

Flexible head (resized).PNG
#7107 2 years ago
Quoted from thanhdlam1985:

It shows that the pinball was made 11/16/16 so shouldn't it already have the 2.0 board factory installed? The box it came in was also not like the others with the model, serial #, and game number printed on the box. There was a label on the box instead. See attached. * I covered the serial number.

11/16/16 was still delivered with the olders boards, so I would assume someone did the upgrade thus opened the box to do so, it can be at the factory or done by your distributor.

There was no playfield protection on my NIB WOZ when it arrived, but there was some foam behind that needed to be removed and a paper stuck on the glass with instructions for cleaning invisiglass.

And yes the spare parts should arrive in a sealed plastic bag with 4 compartments, and the topper came with a protective blue tape on top.

#7112 2 years ago
Quoted from thanhdlam1985:

It came in a zip lock bag with the balls lose, and the baggies cut open. But the extra parts were still in a protective plastic covering.

Did you have to remove some foams at the back of the playfield, next to the monkey ? There's actually a paper notice in the box with a warning to remove them.

#7114 2 years ago
Quoted from thanhdlam1985:

I did not get those foam in the back of the playfield either. =(
I mean, there are no damages, but if you were to advertise the pinball machine as brand new, NIB, It shouldn't appear like everything has been opened. =\

Did you check the game stats in the settings ? Game count, number of events etc ? I know it can be reset to 0 but if your distributor made some tests then they should have left that count untampered out of honesty.

And yes NIB means NIB, so you should get the joy of opening everything.

As to the box, mine didn't come with a sticker on it, all infos were printed on the box. So I would assume they got another box and printed a sticker on it.

It looks fishy to say the least, I think you should reach out to them and ask for explanation, at least to try and get to the bottom of the story.

#7138 2 years ago

I don’t see any changes in this code on the ruleset so I’ll just stick to 6.61 that works like a charm

#7149 2 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

I bought my WOZRR75 from Automated in February 2017 and they PROMISED ME I was getting a brand new 2.0 system, but they sent me one with 7.5 boards manufactured in November 2016

I got mine in March 2018 from The Pinball Company asked for a 2.0 and got promised a 2.0, but same as you they sent me a 7.5 from November 2016. I called them right away and was told they went through much efforts to find me one and were told too it was a 2.0 (which I still highly doubt).

At least mine arrived NIB for real and with the topper, parts and manual. In the next 2 weeks I got very close to returning it after a chain of led boards failures, but thanks to JJP great support and service I replaced them for free and haven’t had any issue since then.

So all together I consider myself quite lucky but will surely look for another distributor for my next purchase.

#7175 2 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Agreed, this should be available for all models when you turn off the monkey mech. That is what it sounds like here and is most logical.

2000$ for a 10 seconds video, I think I’ll just keep my monkey !

1 week later
#7286 2 years ago

I have (finally) managed to collect my 2 first jewels (I still think I'm terrible at playing that game, but getting there!), 25% closer to SOTR mode !

My life actually got way easier once I found out that getting the ball skillshot gets ball mode ready right away, and same with the witch skill shot to get to Fireball Frenzy faster.

So currently, I try to lock as many balls as I can, to launch new balls and get these skillshots, they are not too hard to reach, especially the witch that I find to be the easiest skill shot of all.

Do you have any other useful technique to collect the jewels, I mean except being a great pinball player (which I'm not yet !)

#7298 2 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

WOZ RR coming this Wednesday! The delivery people said 350 lbs.

Yep it's a big boy, more loaded than any other game and totally for the good cause. I don't think JJP will ever do that again, they needed a big first and they got it

#7305 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

JJP has them to cover wear areas like the state fair and between the pops

Mine came NIB with them installed. I was super happy they put them standard

#7308 2 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Are we talking about clear mylar playfield protectors here? Or artwork decal?

Oh mine were mylar playfield protectors, they are not super thin though so sometimes a slow ball can roll around them

1 week later
#7424 2 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Don’t you just hate it when you go for a fancy slap of the flipper button but just slap the side of the cabinet and miss it altogether and drain!! (No? Just me?) That’s how my game ended. Gutted.
Sorry... I’m about 6 years late to the party!!
This game is awesome

Yes I hate it and it becomes a classic drain. But it’s a catch 22 because getting the witch or ball skillshot is the fastest way to get fireball mode or crystal ball. It adds a layer of tension hoping to get it right.

#7430 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

No doubt!
This only happened to me once on site and I didn’t even know it was a mode!

I love lights off but I still wish the throne room would be off too. Same with TNPLH everything turns sepia but there’s that big green light that stays on.

#7496 1 year ago

Not a big fan on pinstadium on WOZ either, I think it makes the game light show less spectacular.

#7499 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Ok guys, today when I turned on my woz, the winged monkey made a grinding noise, but after that it was fine. The monkey seems to make a little "jump" right when it hits the wooden area where the opening is which I guess acts as a guide for when it goes down and up. Is this normal?
Czn u guys recommend what lube to get ? Maybe an amazon page ?

Yep lube will help. I use this one it’s dense so you can put it on a stick and lube the whole shaft from a distance without spilling everywhere


#7536 1 year ago
Quoted from SDpinballer:

Well. Was hoping oneangrymo had similar equipment to mine but sounds like his sub is powered. Will need to procure additional equipment (and knowledge). Thanks!

If you are looking for a cheap amplifier that will do awesome on bass, I warmly encourage you to get this one
amazon.com link »

It's based on a Tripath chip that does magic for audio, especially in bass impact and resolution.

#7594 1 year ago

Scary ! What are you doing to it ?

#7599 1 year ago

My throne room doens't light up anymore. Looking closer at the led, I see a very dim green light. Is there anything to check ? Or do I need to get a new led strip ?

#7667 1 year ago
Quoted from PinJim:

My castle playfield flipper is rubbing the castle wall. Anyone else seen this? The flipper is weak too. I’m guessing I’ll need to remove the castle playfield to see what’s going on underneath it. Ugh....[quoted image][quoted image]

Mine comes super close to the wall but doesn't touch it, see picture below. I think you need to dremmel the wall a bit. As to the weakness of the flipper although my case is different, I had the same issue to the point where the bat would stay stuck up. It got sorted out once I levelled the playfield correctly. I was off of 1 degree, at 5.5 instead of 6.5.

IMG-5423 (resized).JPG
#7674 1 year ago
Quoted from PinJim:

So please forgive my ignorance, I’ve never owned a JJP before. But, in poking around tonight, I found that a lot of the coil strengths had been reduced. Such was the case for the castle flipper. I returned it to default and voila, it works fine.
The lower main flippers were reduced. Various VUKs, the sling by the roller over lanes, etc. I assume people leave coils at the default value? Just found it odd that so many had been reduced...

WOZ (Or JJPs in general, I only have one), is quite sensitive to ac power, I reduced all the flippers and vuks coil power when I first got it, balls were flying everywhere. Then I bought a power rectifier and put them back to their standard settings. This could be why yours were reduced.

#7678 1 year ago
Quoted from PinJim:

What is a power rectifier? I know what a bridge rectifier is, but I’m guessing you are talking about something different?

My bad english ! I'm using this, and it sorted out my AC power issues.


#7757 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Of course it's vireland, many thanks. That's exactly what I needed, fans ordered.

Do you have an RR ? I cant figure if the one for the screen will fit.

#7759 1 year ago
Quoted from mjfisher:

I’m surprised they would have failed so quickly - I was thinking of getting a 2.0 kit upgrade at some point myself.

They fail very randomly. I had 3 that failed in my first week then none for the last year and a half. I tend to think some batches are worse than others.

#7812 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

No idea. I'd try one and see if it fits/works. Screws at hardware stores are cheap, grab some #6 or #8 sheet metal screws in various lengths and see if they work or you need bigger, smaller, shorter, longer.
LTG : )

Naive question (I never had to touch the doors). What are the odds that the right door uses the same screws as the other doors ?

#7816 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

The tail end of the smaller YBR lights go from blue to green. Is that normal?[quoted image]


#7836 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

I figured that would be the answer.
Not sure I want to run that risk. Maybe I'll hold off for a later build with the 2.0 upgrade.

I haven't had any issue on my 7,5v buffered boards for a year now, so I decided to not take the risk, spend the time and the money for now. It's empirical but I really tend to think there was some randomness in batches more than issues on the design.

1 week later
#7871 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Hurry while you can! Exclusive machine for sale!
ebay.com link

He won the Slash auction and tries to make some money from it !

#7879 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

There was an auction house selling this and other things too. I wonder what they got for his spanking chair ?
LTG : )

The buyer paid quite a heavy price for it. 8.750$ plus auction fees (20% or so). Doesn't look like the best investment to resell it right away, especially when there's not much about Slash but a picture of him !

wozslash (resized).PNG
#7896 1 year ago

BIG day today ! I got 3 emeralds, 50 YBR, Emerald city multiball and Haunted forest. So I'm almost half way to SOTR, it's exciting and frustrating at the same time because some of them I feel nowhere near close to getting them while getting them all in the same game looks like a dream.

Anyways getting there one step at a time, I still need to be more precise on the shots and train more in staying in control during multiballs, but wow I love this game !

#7905 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Well guys I was playing my WOZ today and a board definitely went out. I can't remember the process of skipping /bridging a light board to find which one is the culprit. I would LOVE any guidance. thank you!
See below I have highlighted the only working lights.[quoted image][quoted image]

Move the data harness between 4 and 5 to 4 and 6, I think 5 is your dead one.

#7907 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

W6 is on, and maybe #29. So #1 is probably bad.
LTG : )

Darn it, I was trying to show how Obi-Wan has taught me well, but I’ve failed !

1 week later
#7978 1 year ago

My next week end of work is to install silent fans, to me it’s a much bigger issue than led failing that actually don’t fail much.

But the noise, urgh I cant take it anymore !

#7981 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I did just the CPU case fan and it was amazing. Btw, if you order any standard fan forget about splicing it in to the wiring. The mobo has headers for fans built in. My fan came with an extension that let it reach the mobo no problem.
Edit - here is the fan: amazon.com link »
Just remove the old one and force the plug from the new fan through the rubber grommet on the PC case. I lubed it up a bit with some water because it was tight. Then use the extension to make it to the motherboard.

Awesome ! I was just about to ask you for a link. I ordered one, looking forward to resting my ears

1 week later
#8153 1 year ago

I get a lot of air balls from my right flipper, I've tried lowering the power but it's either the air balls or the ball doesn't make it up the ramp/

#8180 1 year ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Raise the rubber on the flipper bat so it is hitting higher on the ball.

Thanks ! I had no idea it could be that simple to sort out, Ill give it a try.

2 weeks later
#8416 1 year ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Raise the rubber on the flipper bat so it is hitting higher on the ball.

Thank you ! I never thought about doing that, and it sorted everything out. I wish I asked sooner I'm sure I would have avoided a few dimples on the playfield.

#8428 1 year ago

So WOZ is now sustaining my tendency to procrastinate !

I left on holidays 2 weeks ago and my throne room led strip was dead. Came back yesterday turned on my pinball and it works like a charm !

#8434 1 year ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

They’re temperamental mate. Mine had a bad connection. Just needs a tweak every once in a while!!

That's where I keep thinking about unplugging the shaker motor, I'm sure it helps avoiding the bad temper !

1 week later
#8492 1 year ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

This is how my WOZ came from factory. I wonder if it was a mistake or normal.[quoted image]

Mine came with the pole in the left hole. They call it normal difficulty in the user manual.
The only one I moved is the one on the Toto outlane it was draining too much for me so I moved it to the left.

Truth is I wanted to do the same on the left outlane but my rail is too long so I cant fit the pole. I gave up on the idea didnt feel into cutting the rail.

There is a section in scores to report what difficulty setting the pinball is in, so the issue mentioned above is covered already.

#8497 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I told him that after he repeatedly kept going at me. Ive never seen someone get so uptight over something so simple..
This is pinball, the machine is made for scoring. That is the point of the machine.

The machine is made for having fun, and this thread is made for helping each other and sharing our joy of owning a WOZ. That is the point of the machine (and that is the point of the thread).

#8498 1 year ago
Quoted from Walleyefisher:

Actually, if you remove the plastic you will see that rail has another hole to the right of current position. Once it's moved you can move the post to the right and it fits correctly.

Hahaha, I feel very dumb right now ! I didn't not remove the plastic all I did was cursing at JJP for giving me a rail too long

#8501 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I think the point is being lost. My only comment was that I dont understand why people choose to make it easier an if they do, just mention that if posting scores.
None of which is a big deal or to be taken offensively.

The point is not lost, people chose to make it easier so they can have fun, which per my post above is what a pinball is for.

#8505 1 year ago
Quoted from Walleyefisher:

No worries, I had the exact same thoughts and found the info here on pinside. Don't worry though the left is still drain happy, just like STTNG left out lane.

And now you are waking up my worst nightmare, I had STTNG for 5 years and hated that left out lane all along !

#8544 1 year ago
Quoted from TonyScoots:

Wow long over due for an update[quoted image]

Mine is still in 6.61, I havent see any code change that will affect the gameplay or fix a bug that I noticed so same as phone firmwares I stay away from potential troubles when it all works perfectly.

#8555 1 year ago
Quoted from fnosm:

This is probably why you can use your flippers to select which button is blinking.

What ? You mean you can select which Toto rollover is lit with the flipper buttons ?

#8557 1 year ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

Indeed you can, works just like lane change feature available at the top rollover lanes on some pins for example.

Wow, 1500 games later, I've never realized that Turning my game on now !

#8577 1 year ago
Quoted from homegameroom:

Yep. I did that- it still won’t light up during gameplay.

You need not only to lock a ball but also to either hit all the rescue targets or light rescue by going in the castle hole.

When you do that the light goes on and it also shows on the screen.

#8585 1 year ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

For whatever reason I'm not following you... On my WoZ I tried to figure this out by having the ball go down toto but it doesn't seem like I can control anything with the flippers during that time? Could someone explain to me in dumb dumb terms... LOL

Look at the TOTO rollovers, some are lit and some are blinking. You need to hit the blinking ones to get Toto save.
Now if you hit the flippers the position of the blinking letters will change.

#8590 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Now the only operator-friendly request left for Keith to drop is time of day/time of week pricing. Fingers crossed.

That’s something you can manage with Scorbit on all your games. Check it out here

#8593 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Zero interest in connecting the machine to the internet to manage this simple function. Pool tables already have this feature (offline). Pinball will have it, too - without the internet.

I’m curious, why don’t you want to connect your machines ? Is it because you find it overkill for a simple feature or is it a more general fear of connecting stuff that doesnt need to be ?

#8599 1 year ago

I got better at TNLPH, it’s easier to shoot correctly with only one ball, unlike melt the witch that I haven’t completed yet.

It’s still a challenge, the ball drains and I gave up on nudging this game, too heavy for me.

#8618 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

That I did not realize with the scoring. Funny, the other day I was thinking to myself.. "man, has anyone completed the 4 stages???"

I completed it 3 times in 1500 games, it’s also a good way to practice some important shots, I’m not too bad with the crystal ball shot but getting the throne room is still a challenge.

Speaking of shots I still don’t have a solid method to hit B-A from BALL, it happens randomly. Any tips ?

#8623 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Oh, right. I almost forgot that the castle walls didn't come with the ECLEs. That's a RR plus.
Toto in the basket is kind of junky, IMO. Looks like a modder bad idea.

Toto would be great if he was more detailed but as is he tends to bother me.
The castle door on the other hand are really a must.

#8631 1 year ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

The first Toto is easy...now the second one is a great challenge and feels good when I get it.

The second one, I feel but I might just suck at it, that some of them are impossible. I can do it when the 2 shots need to be done with the same flipper, but when there's a left and a right, I just don't see how you can shoot, then pass to the other flipper then shoot again all in time.

#8665 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

No soldering. Some cutting and routing wires. Drilling a little. It's very basic work, and the instructions are pretty refined now, so it shouldn't be that bad. I split it up over a few hours a day. 100% recommended conversion.
Here's the current instructions (click on pictures to load PDF). Pretty basic stuff. A lot OF it, but basic.

Are there pictures of the finished installation when the wires are tied together ? I'm of no help when it comes to putting wires together in a clean/smart way, so some guidance for that would help a lot. A quick glance of the back of my hifi system will get you a good idea of my skills !

#8673 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Here is a picture before I cable tied a few of the last of them. Installed, got it working, made sure cables had enough room. Then final cable ties.
LTG : )[quoted image]

Thanks LTG, any chance you have one not blurry ?

#8676 1 year ago
Quoted from wtatumjr:

My old original boards are working fine so I see no reason to upgrade. I imagine there are people who upgraded that would be willing to sell their old boards for $!00 or so. I see no need to just upgrade for the heck of it @ $800 per game. If you've had problems the upgrade is understandable but it's not for me.

Same here, my 7,5V boards work like a charme so I see no reason to upgrade. I will consider it once/if one of my main board dies, at that point the 800 will sound much more justified versus replacing a dead board.

So in between I'm gathering knowledge on switching to 2.0, because it looks quite daunting, especially with my limited skills.

#8679 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

There is no "if" to it. ALL 1.0 systems will fail because it's a bad design where failure is inherent.
And if you wait too long, the $800 price will likely be gone (Jack has said the price will go up) and the resale market for 1.0 boards will have dried up, so a much more expensive proposition. Right now a completely stable 2.0 system proven on 4 machines costs a little more than a ColorDMD upgrade (after you sell the 1.0 boards) and you end up knowing it will last, unlike the 1.0 system that will absolutely 100% fail prematurely.

This assumption is sitting on very little evidence, at least to say ALL will die. Some people with the 5v board never had any issues, same with the 7,5v and both versions of it, some others had a few and others way too many.

There is no such thing as a "1.0 system", there is a 1.1 and a 1.2, each of them brought more reliability until 2.0 was released.

#8682 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I feel like this is just getting to the point of beating a horse to death on the subject of light boards, failure modes and if you should or not replace the system. All the points have been covered at least a dozen time in this and other threads but I'll try to keep it short.
1) The driver chip on the pre 2.0 LED boards is obsolete and has been for some time now, JJP says they have stock to support owners but who knows for how long.
2) The problem with the pre-2.0 systems are that a bad LED board can really f@#&-up the rest of the game by disabling or causing severe color-cycling, flashing etc. on other boards down the string (this was my main reason to do the upgrade).
3) Anecdotally (we have no hard numbers) the 2.0 system has been much more reliable in all the games following WOZ as well as in late build or converted WOZs.
4) The $800 price is supposed to go up to $1200 but we don't know when.

The 2.0 system is far better than the previous versions, there is no discussion on that, what I'm discussing is the assumption that all of them will die, I do not believe that, I have not seen it happening and put led boards changing as a part of once in a while maintenance, in a very while in my case.

With my natural tendency to procrastinate, I actually find it beneficial that one failure impacts what's after in the chain, it forces me to change the board right away. I've stayed with a dead throne room led light for a month since I didn't miss it much, and got the pleasure to see a month later that it was perfectly working again.

#8686 1 year ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

The throne room green LED strip is not in the LED board chain.

I know, that is exactly why I let it dead for a month !

Quoted from bobukcat:

But if you don't have a replacement board you've got to take the game out of service, mine flaked out during league twice and the second time was the final straw for me.

JJP was kind enough to send me a bunch of replacement boards, the small ones. And if a big one dies I’ll switch to 2.0 since a replacement is close to 200$.

#8702 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Free repairs? Auto manufactures issue recalls when they realize a defective design. Those are usually free. This is a defective light board. Even if the labor is on us owners, the correct light boards should be free to anyone who bought a NIB WOZ. Just my opinion.

They recall and repair for free when the defect impacts security and that’s not really a client’s service it’s just to avoid future lawsuits.

Guess if the JJP boards were starting a fire you might get 2.0 for free !

1 week later
#8726 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Man, this machine has not been very kind to me lately haha. Im pretty surprised that JJP didnt think the game needed any "shoot again" time after launching the ball. Sometimes I drain almost immediately, especially on that left side drain

There is a ball save in the settings and if you play on location I think every operator should use it, it's too frustrating to drain right away.

#8729 1 year ago

Ok I cant postpone fixing it anymore.

My monkey doesn't catch balls anymore. He touches the ball and the ball follows him but once he takes off the ball is released.

Does this help telling me what I should check ?

1 week later
#8837 1 year ago

I praised the reliability of my light boards so well that I jinxed myself

I’ll deal with it but let’s face it, I hate you ThepinballCompany.com , I hate you so much that I don’t even know where to start !
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#8853 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

What does "The Pinball Company" have to do with your lights going out?

I ordered a NIB 2.0 from them and asked specifically to confirm it was a 2.0. This was last year and WOZ was sold out almost everywhere.

And guess what ?
I received a 1.2 born 11/2016, likely one of the last non 2.0 produced

You may wonder why I didnt return it, well it was such a hassle to get it, move it inside etc. that I didn’t felt doing it, and I was unaware of the issues attached to the previous light boards.

#8861 1 year ago

Actually I need help this time to troubleshoot my led problem. The last small board lit on the chain is right before the tin man board, everything after is dead. So I guess my tin man is dead but want to confirm.

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#8864 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Most likely. You could by pass #28 in case it isn't leaving data through, but most likely tinman is bad.
LTG : )

At 270$ a board, I guess it's time for a 2.0 upgrade, I knew it would have to happen, I was just hoping for later !

#8867 1 year ago

You’ve just shamelessly woke up my lazy gene !

Too late though, I went on JJP website and for once the 2.0 kit was available, I figured it was a sign so I ordered one.

But thanks to you I’ll lower my hopes of reselling my old board set with a dead tin man.

#8877 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yep, 2.0 system GI is not as bright.

Is it the 2.0 upgrade that’s not as bright or all the 2.0s ?

#8889 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

When I get a tech call and they open with "my monkey isn't working", it is hard to not crack up.
LTG : )

Speaking of the monkey. I finally inspected mine Friday why finding the dead led board. He often doesnt catch balls anymore, the magnet catches them the ball falls when the monkey takes off.

The one thing that looked odd but no idea if it is, is that the magnet power cable is entirely lose, so I suspect that the back of the playfield pushed it and blocks it.

Is that cable supposed to be tied to something. A picture of how its supposed to look would be very helpful.

#8894 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Just saw a post from Flip-N-Out that they have one of the new RRs available and it does have the Monkey Mech still, so two questions answered there. He did not post a price of course.

So I guess (or hope) the RR limited edition numbers are not consecutive, mine, birth date November 2016 has number 1491.

#8896 1 year ago
Quoted from fnosm:

The "Number of.." number on the special/limited edition plaques does not correlate to when it was produced.

So there is no way to tell if the RR is limited to 1500 units or not, unless we gather every single owner and every single number, which is likely impossible.

#8899 1 year ago

To complete the above, I personally don't care if they stick to 1500 units or not, I didn't buy my RR because it was limited, I bought it because it was the last NIB WOZ that I could find.

Also I think limited has value for very limited games like Alien, TBL, BBB etc... I don't think it changes anything in resell value when produced in thousand(s)

#8941 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Was just curious about this as well. Because the motherboards they used, for one, are about gone and what is left are inflated prices.

I wouldnt worry too much about finding boards even in a decade. The format is standard, the chipset is fairly standard and the parts that fails the most are surface components.

Wether on the NOS or 2nd hand market you will find some.

#8946 1 year ago

My 2.0 upgrade kit is almost there, hopefully it arrives tonight so I can get on it this weekend. I am scared, the task looks daunting, but I'm excited !

#8955 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Don't be. Time consuming, yes. Hard, no. If you can cut out an old wire or turn a screw. You'll be fine. If you ever changed a LED board in your game, you'll be better than fine.
If need be. Take a break. Don't forge ahead no matter what. That is how you F stuff up.
LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd ! You might hear from me (or not !)

#8971 1 year ago

So I'm about to start (as in today), the 2.0 upgrade, I've read the (well put) installation guide a couple times, I'm not too worried about doing the job now, except the drilling part but it is a good idea to put some tape on the drill bit.

I have a question regarding cutting the wire connectors, it looks like the only reason is to avoid cutting too many wire ties. But since I'm hoping to keep my 1.0 lightning kit complete, I'm wondering if it's not better to cut the wire tie, remove the wire, and put back another wire tie right away. I see it easier than having to put back every single connector once the job is done.

Any advice ?

#8978 1 year ago

Installing the 2.0 kit has been fairly smooth so far, I’m actually even enjoying it !

I removed the old wires and harness and installed all the big boards, today I’m starting to drill.
My 5 years old son has been helping me on the way, I got him to cut the connectors (and hid the cutting pliers right after in case he woke up early this morning and felt like « helping » me more.

The instructions are super clear and they don’t show just what to do but also what not to do, some of the don’t wouldn’t have hit my mind for a second so kudos to everyone who wrote these instructions.

#8980 1 year ago

I have a (minor) problem installing the 2.0 kit. I’m at mounting the BAG board on the bracket. The instructions says to tighten firmly the board but I cant because of the big white connector at the bottom, the solder parts are too long.
Do I need to get some spacers or do I need to mount it on the other side that has spacers ?

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#8982 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

You absolutely need spacers. The instructions show nylon spacers for each screw attaching the board to the bracket. Page 2 of the packing list also clearly shows that board with the spacers already attached to it.
Fortunately, I'm sure Ace Hardware will have something that will work for less than a buck total tomorrow.
(Click on the image below to see the full packing list PDF)
[quoted image]

I don’t have these spacers on my board, Ill go get some. Thanks !

#8983 1 year ago

Found myself some spacers !

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#8984 1 year ago

The moment I realize I need a break.
My power supply doesnt have the short wire between -V and GND, so I was about to take my car and go back to the hardware store, slightly cursing on myself for another ride.

I went to get my keys on the table and saw this....

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#8987 1 year ago

I need help again, Im plugging the new power supply, I don’t understand where to plug the power wires.

Instructions say to plug it where the blk-vio was plugged but the new cable has a female connector where the one I removed had a male connector.

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#8988 1 year ago

Nevermind, I found it

#8990 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Just reading your updates I'm shaking my head saying wow jjp wtf. Who wants to spend time on this. Such a shame.
Good luck though looks like you're getting through and almost done

I have mixed feelings about it. Yes it’s unfortunate that I have to do that and quite frankly if I could have avoided it I would have.

But I’m thankful that JJP came with a definitive fix for that problem, it’s not that common in many industries.
The kit is expensive but you get a lot for the money, I doubt they earn a dime on it, they might even lose some, and the kit is super well put, everything comes well together. I’ve built some diy electronic kits before it was way less smooth.

And in the end, although I’m not done it’s surely the best pinball maintenance bootcamp I’ve ever been through, I’ll be able to take care of my pinball from now on (Provided that it doesnt burn when I turn it on but we shall see that tomorrow !)

#8997 1 year ago

Can someone tell me the size of the metal screws that hold the castle playfield to the metal poles ?

When removing it last night I realized it was missing one screw

#9033 1 year ago

I broke one of these rubbers. Any idea what they are called and where to find them ?

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#9040 1 year ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Those things are cursed. I would just ask them to send you a replacement or two . . . or three. I’m sure they will.

Yeah Ill try that. I put the playfield back, the led board is wiggly but at least I can finish the 2.0 job.

That munchkin pf is a hassle to take off, I thought it would be a breeze after the castle one but it was the opposite.

#9041 1 year ago

Dammit I thought I was done with cabling and put some zip ties everywhere, I was even proud of myself until i saw the pf signs connector hanging and realize I need to cut a good 20 zip ties and get him on the other side of the playfield to board 7

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#9062 1 year ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Is it normal for it only let me perform the capture Dorothy once on the first ball?
I tried two games and I can only perform this function on the first ball and both times it picked up the ball but dropped it on the play field when it reached the castle. The monkey did not place the ball behind the door.

Does your monkey go completely behind the castle door before it releases the ball. It looks like the switch clicks too early for the ball to fall at the right place. Also did you look behind the door to make sure it's clear ?

#9069 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Adjust the upper limit switch so your monkey travels a little bit farther.
LTG : )

Lloyd, while you are at the monkey chapter. Mine doesnt always pick up the ball from the magnet.
You told me to check if the wires were free to move. I suspect when I push the playfield to the back the wire get stuck.

Here is a picture of mine, you can see the black wire I hold is hanging completely loose. Should it be like that or should I tie it somewhere ?

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#9085 1 year ago

Ok I’m about to turn the game on again, I swear I’ve never been that scared of pressing a button in my entire life.

Whoever reads this, please cross fingers with me !

#9090 1 year ago

High Power almost granted our wishes... Almost unfurtonately
So I have 3 lights that don’t turn on.
All 3 (27, 29 and 155) plug on the same port J102 on Tin man board.
I switched one light with another one that lits and it lights. So I dont think the small leds are at fault.
I tried reseating the J102 cable a bunch of times but they still dont light.
The other lights plugged to the same board turn on normally.

Any help appreciated, except declaring the main board is at fault, I have no idea what else to do.

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#9093 1 year ago
Quoted from adol75:

High Power almost granted our wishes... Almost unfortunately
So I have 3 lights that don’t turn on.
All 3 (27, 29 and 155) plug on the same port J102 on Tin man board.
I switched one light with another one that lits and it lights. So I dont think the small leds are at fault.
I tried reseating the J102 cable a bunch of times but they still dont light.
The other lights plugged to the same board turn on normally.
Any help appreciated, except declaring the main board is at fault, I have no idea what else to do.

IMG-6018 (resized).JPG
#9129 1 year ago
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#9130 1 year ago