(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

10 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (10 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (7 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (5 years ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (5 years ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (5 years ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (5 years ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (4 years ago)

Post #11015 Adjustment advice for the monkey Posted by LTG (3 years ago)

Post #12537 7.03 Code Release Posted by bobukcat (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#5919 5 years ago

I am looking to possibly join the club and purchase a WOZ. Debating between buying a standard nib or a used Emerald City Edition.

Can anyone tell me a bit about the Emerald City LE Edition? I've read it was the first group made. Can anyone tell me what the price was new and how they are holding up over time? New standards are 8k, right?

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

#5920 5 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

+1 Go for it! it’s my favorite game in my collection. It’s just amazing

Better than IJ?

#5924 5 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

utesichiban well... right now yes, BUT Indy will never leave my collection it’s one of my grail pins. Right now woz is still “new” and so much to keep me busy . Indy is one of the best games ever.

I agree. It is still my favorite but the new games always are fun and take priority for a while.

I hope I can find a HUO WOZ in my area. Not as many people as Nor Cal so may take some time.

#5925 5 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Its the only version with the wooden apron which makes it pretty unique. The only debate you'll find about getting it is about the light boards. Some have had problems; others have not. With a new standard, you can get the 2.0 boards which are supposed to be more reliable. It is not an insignificant decision.

I know there are some cool things about it but have to admit the board thing makes me a bit nervous.

What do ECLE's typically go for? I'm guessing those with the more reliable 7.5v boards go for a bit more, right?

#5931 5 years ago

Thank you everyone. Generally, what is a good price for an ECLE and how much do the boards affect the value (if any)?

2 months later
#6222 5 years ago

I just bought a standard, early run WOZ from the original owner a few weeks ago. I was nervous about it being an early run game but I was assured the 5v boards had all had the fix JPP sent out for them.

Well, I flipped on the game tonight and something seems to be off. It looks like a few lights are dim or out on the lower playfield (where numbers are) and they are all red while playing on both the lower playfield and upper castle playfield.

I am almost afraid to ask but does this mean one of this machines boards is going or has fried again already? I will try to attach a picture but any insight on what the issue may be is very appreciated.
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#6223 5 years ago

Here are a few more pictures. Maybe normal but some of the lights seem dim and off from what they were the last time I played.

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#6225 5 years ago

Thanks. I am really in over my head as I don't even know where to start even with your instructions. There is definitely a problem. The lights in the lower playfield aren't even blinking or changing colors at all. Even those still blinking in the upper playfield look off.

So to clarify, you don't think this would be an led board issue? I pulled up the playfield just to see if I could find any loose connectors. I will have to look at the manual and trouble shoot when I get a chance but took some pictures None of the lights are blinking or changing colors in the boards of the lower playfield.

The first board where lights are changing and blinking is the one above those in the initial pictures and those above (last picture here with the brighter lights). Any additional insight on what may be wrong? Thanks!

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#6226 5 years ago

Rebooted tge game and lower playfield lights all red again and not blinking or changing colors. Some lights that were dim ir seemingly out before are now red or other lights looking out.

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#6228 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

One B A L L light is out. I'd start at LED Board #15, and by pass LED boards one at a time and see if one isn't passing data through right.
LTG : )

Please look at the pictures above the most recent. Some numbered lights were out earlier that came back on red in the most recent picture.

Do you work for JJP? The guy I just bought it from said he had installed fixes JJP .had sent him for the boards on all boards. If this is indeed a board issue after less than 3 weeks of ownership and no more than 30 plays, what is the long term fix for these problems? It sounds like all of this goes back to original manufacturing flaws & defects and I may have inherited a major headache.

#6231 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Sounds like regular lack of maintenance issues on your game.
Its nothing that cant be sorted out.
Everything can be fixed, however due to the age of the game now, and the 5v system, ITs a great candidate for the 2.0 system being offered by JJP.
My game is just slightly newer that yours with a lot of plays on it. Im probably going to get the 2.0 system as my boards fail due to age.
I recommend this to make the game rock solid for years to come.

Can you tell me what the 2.0 system is and how much it costs ( also how labor intensive - I am not the best at this stuff and installation may be expensive if I have to pay someone to do it)?

I don't know that the game hasn't been taken care of. It is an early run standard but the owner installed all the board fixes JJP sent him. The playfield and everything is immaculate as well.

Rather than neglected maintenance, I think if there is still a board problem, it is due to a manufacturing problem going back to when it was built.

coatthegameofblackjacktocoatthegameofblIcoatthegameofblackjacktocoatthegameofblackjacktogetackjacktogettogetit.

#6234 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The 2.0 system is expensive but replaces all of the big boards in your game as well as rerouting cables.
Its a big job and takes experienced people a bit of time to do it.
That said, if I have to replace all of my boards anyway, over time, its the best solution for long term ownership.
My game is going nowhere for years to come. This is why Im going to do it.
Its about the same price as getting all new boards of the older style, if you can get them.

Great. That could cost well over 1k to fix a problem that shouldn't be on those that bought these machines early to begin with. Seriously, what a mess.

Most manufacturers issues recalls over this stuff and pay the cost to fix them. Doesn't sound like JJP ever really stepped up to the plate. Just sent out band aids to the unfortunate customers that bought early like the guy I bought this one from (i was reassured they were fixed desoite my concerms over this game). Now I'm worried even if I redo this already once supposedly fixed board or boards the problem will just continue.

Is JJP doing anything to address this ongoing problem or is the stance that despite the fact many of these games had major board and electrical flaws out of the factory, , it is no longer their problem?

#6235 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Replaces almost all the little ones too.
LTG : )

How much is the entire thing? Why didn't JJP send these fixes out to customers stuck with troubled earky run games to begin with?

#6237 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

$800 right now.

Because many games will never need it.
LTG : )

What about those that do? The guy I bought this one from received fixes from JJP that were installed but apparently as I'm unfortunately learning probably didn't fix all of the problems (despite his assurances that everything had been fixed and taken care of).

#6241 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Buy the kit. Install it. And be done with it.
LTG : )

Yl

Part of the problem is I am not very experienced in fixing these type of problems but I guess I'm going to need to lear sooner or later. Sorry. I appreciate the help. Just stressed out about other unrelated things right now and I let this carry over into my initial reactions here where?I learned there was a potential problem.

#6242 5 years ago
Quoted from tiesmasc:

Utesichiban before you jump to such wide speculation you might want to get a better understanding of history... and also research what your problem is and what it will take to fix it. Many people have already tried to help you but you're just jumping to the worst case solution (that everything must be replaced) instead of attempting to find and fix the problem that exist. (And it is very likely you don't need the entire kit or labor to install.)
I realize you probably are frustrated b/c it worked perfectly before you got it home; however, whenever you move a pinball things can happen (even if only moving it 10 feet in your basement)... but you'll either need to learn to enjoy the problem solving and fixing... or pay to have it fixed... or realize that owning a machine may not be for you b/c they always take some tinkering.
FYI: I'm not trying to be an ass but you come on here turning a mountain into a mole hill and making rampant claims with little to no understanding of background. It's not a great way to introduce yourself to a group that started out trying to help you...
OK... so now... let's get to getting your game back up and running. Suggest you follow some of the excellent suggestions Lloyd already posted... let us know what the results are... and we'll help you get to the bottom of this.

Sorry about that. You're right. I'll try to figure it out but lack the knowledge many of you guys do in diagnising and fixing these things. It has been working fine for almost 3 weeks since getting it here (including Tuesday night) so don't think whatever the issue is that itvis likely related to the move.

#6243 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

You are at the game, easier to look underneath. This is how to search for a failed board.
Please check out page C-54 in the manual ( you can download it at jerseyjackpinball.com ) that page shows the data harness path. From W6 to #29, to #1, to #2, to #3, etc. etc.
Please go into Tests - LEDs - All LEDs, this turns any working all white. Lift playfield and lean on backbox. You can see the working ones kind of glow.
They are wired in series, a straight line. Find the last working one, the one after it that is out is the bad one. With the power on, you can by pass the data harnesses on the LED boards, bypass the bad one, and turn off in settings. ( be sure and turn it back on when you replace it ) this will help you identify a bad one.
As an example, say #15 was out. You can run the data harness from red on W2, to green on #16 instead of #15. If the rest light up, you know #15 is the bad one.
With the power on you can move data harnesses. They go red to green from board to board. Don't mess with the power connectors with the power on.
LTG : )

Ok. I went into the all led test and the only ones that turn white or red are those you see on the upper playfield in the picture in red. Does this tell you anything diagnostically?

It appears #11 is the last red board. #12 is definitely out. #13 & #14 appear to be dimmer but do have some white (not red) light. So does it sound like #12 may be the issue? Could replacing that one possibly fix all the downstream problems as well?

Please accept my apologies everyone. I am dealing with a few personal and life issues that have put me under a lot of stress in recent months. Unfortunately, this stress is contributing to me overreacting to things at times. I do appreciate everyone's willingness to help figure things out and again, my apologies.

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#6245 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Don't worry, this can be frustrating as you learn.

You could bypass #12 and see. Run the red connector on #10 over to the Green on #13 and see if things works except #12 and castle playfield lights.
Or maybe take the long data harness from W1 yellow brick road board that goes to #20 ( LED boards past #20 up the right side won't work ) and use this long data harness and go from W6 to #9, Then #1, Then #2, etc. etc. to isolate bad and good boards.
LTG : )

Ok. Thank you. I'm out now but will try to figure if those things work when I get back or tomorrow morning.

#6263 5 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

I have one of the earliest Woz's. Over a thousand + games ....I have replaced very few boards in 3 years. One fish board (W1) very early on and 4 small light boards.
Once I got the new buffer boards (5v) over 2 years ago and hundreds of play, I have not had any other light board issues. Now whether they fail in the future is anyones guess. I remember speaking with Eric (JJP engineer...and now designer!) years ago, he felt very confident with the daughter buffer boards, game would remain solid. In over two years...no lightboard issues..FWIW.
Now Im afraid of turning the game on after I just said this.

Well, the guy I bought mine from 3 weeks ago said he had been sent and installed those fixes but at least one of these has failed with less than 30 plays since acquisition.

My personal opinion is JJP should be standing by fixing all of these early run games at mimimal cost (not $800) given their manufacturing mistakes created the situation for early and subsequent owners but I digress.

8 months later
#8243 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Finally saw one at Pintastic. The sparkly yellow looks amazing. It is a sweet looking machine.

But $11,500 worth of “sweet looking machine”? Is taking the monkey out an upgrade or downgrade? Sounds like a downgrade to me. How do they justify that Price?

1 month later
#8632 4 years ago

I have a earlier run WOZ standard with 5v buffered boards (first owner installed boards sent my JJP to replace original 5V boards.

I had an issue a few weeks back thought to be a bad led board under the castle playfield but I reconfigured the wires today and everything on the upper playfield now appears to be working fine.

What I am noticing, however, is that the last smaller lights on the "Follow The Yellow Brick Road" part in the middle of the playfield appear dimmer or dont match colors when it cycles through attract mode in different colors (green, dark blue, and red all match but pink, light blue, yellow, etc don't).

When starting gameplay, most of the ftybr lights appear dim while a few are brighter. (see pictures on test mode, etc for reference).

Gameplay seems otherwise normal but something with some of the led lights just seems off. Can't see any boards visibly out under the PF. Anyone experienced anything like this before or have ideas on what the issue may be?

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#8634 4 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Those inserts are yellow and not clear like the rest of them so they will appear dimmer and cannot match the color of the other inserts.

Thank you. So is this normal? It just looks off to me. If you look at the first picture, the pointed insert and 2 & 3 are brighter while the others get dimmer as they go up. It is more noticeable in person.

I just t dont understand why some would randomly be brighter then others.

#8637 4 years ago

I was initially talking about those colors being off and they are when it cycles through light blue, pink, white, etc.

Here a few other pictures at start of game play. FTYBR is mostly dim and lights are stagnant (it is not flashing up and through the 1 -9 like I have noticed others do when I watch videos on line).

Notice that the Scarecrow smaller lights are bright and cycling while TYBR is not. Inserts 1, 2, 3 of TYBR are all bright yellow while all others are dim. Wondering if a non-working led under the castle playfield could be causing this or something else?...
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#8639 4 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Go into LED test and start with all of them on white. If everything isn't pretty close to the same intensity and white (except any non-clear inserts) then switch to individual LEDs and cycle through that way. Do you have any of the LED boards skipped via wiring and if so have you disabled that board in the game settings?

Thanks. A few weeks back when a problem arose, there was something clearly wrong with the PF lighting(different then right now). I spoke with JJP tech support about it and they helped me bypass the castle playfield wiring and then in settings turning off the castle RGB's. We figured it was likely a led under the castle playfield as the visible ones all seemed ok but I haven't had time to take on that project yet.

Today, I couldn't get ahold of JJP tech support so I decided to try to reconnect the playfield and other rerouted wires as 12 appeared out. After rerouting the wires back to what I think is normal, 12 is working and the castle playfield lights all appear normal (I then turned those back on in the settings menu as well).

The issue just appears to be what I've already posted with some of the lights around TYBR not cycling or some brighter then others.

Could it be that some of the wires arent connected correctly under the PF? The only coloring I noticed off at all in white light test mode is those 6 small lights at the end of TYBR. Could a led board like 30 or 31 out under the castle PF cause an issue like the one already discussed here with TYBR lighting?

#8641 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

If you go into test mode and cycle through Red, Green, Blue, White do all the lights display the correct colors? If yes, you're fine. If no, you have one or more bad boards.
Also, if you re-connected the castle lights, did you re-activate the boards for the castle in the board settings system menu? That will cause weirdness, too if you forgot to tell the machine they were back in the chain.

Thank you. Yes, I turned the deactivated boards back on in the system menu settings. My guess is one of the led boards under the castle playfield is still the problem. I guess I'm just baffled why it almost looks normal now whereas the lights weren't even close to working correctly previously before troubleshooting.

I will check board colors in test mode when I get back home in an hour or so.

#8646 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It's a serial communications system so whichever board is causing the problem is likely intermittently varying degrees of bad and that affects the lights downstream from it by differing amounts. Until it dies completely and then they're always bad, and maybe it takes another board or boards with it. 1.0 lighting system BLOWS. Trust me. I had a perfect ECLE until it wasn't, then spent over a year with a cascading problem of light boards that eventually ended up being ALL the boards in the machine had been replaced and still problems were happening. Did the 2.0 (one of the first) install and it's been rock solid ever since. I can't recommend the upgrade highly enough.

Going through the settings and testing each LED, I noticed the Munchkinland arrow light and Rainbow hurry up I serts didn't light up. Wondering if the led's that feed those inserts are the issue?...

#8648 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Here's my most-referred to page from the manual when I had the 1.0 system. I still have most of it memorized from the year+ trauma.
When you say rainbow hurry up, do you mean the lit letters above the RAINBOW targets?[quoted image]

No. I mean the Rainbow hurray up round insert on the left just above the pop bumper. You can test the lights on each insert on the off individually in the menu LED settings and that one and the Munchkinland arrow don’t light up.

1 week later
#8723 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I definitely see where you're coming from, and perhaps my language was too strong. I've been thinking about this a lot lately with all of the threads that have been popping up legitimately complaining about one issue or another. And, I just wonder if pinball would be a sustainable business if it was operated any other way. My main point is that while I agree with everyone that in an ideal world a manufacturer would offer a fix like this for free, pinball is not an ideal world. You have much smaller companies, and when something goes wrong, it costs a huge amount to fix. Paying for the cost of supplying 2000-3000 user kits could perhaps sink a company. I have no idea what the exact cost is, but I just don't see them making a profit off of these kits. And, I have no idea what their financial statements look like. But, if you add the light board issues up with everything else they have to deal with, I just wonder if it is a choice between putting some expense on the user or staying in business. Again, I have no idea, and I don't want to make assumptions. But, I want JJP to stay in business. I feel like they have been more than fair to me as a company. They replaced my old light boards for free well after the warranty ran out. They probably would still be doing it. I chose to upgrade to have a more reliable system. Again, I would have different expectations of Apple than I do JJP. I guess that is my only point.

It had to be they are on somewhat thin ice financially because charging customers a lot of money to fix factory caused design flaws would ge bad business in most other truly competitive industries.

Not sure how lemon laws work in relation to pinball machines. I've been wondering about this lately will all the problems surfacing the past several years in relation to both new JJP and Stern games.

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