Had my WOZ LE since October. It's hard to nail down all the specifics (many are subtle), but the evolving game code has really increased the magnetic draw of this game. Back when I started (v1.22?) I kinda knew what to shoot at, and a few things seemed like they should do something but didn't. Things felt more 'together' and interesting with 1.24. 2.0 and 3.0 just made it a better overall experience, with more stacking, the lights and callouts make more sense, and there's a better feel of progress during the game. I confess to sometimes just shooting shots directly on the fly, based on the callouts without looking up at what else I may want to shoot for.

I'm not gonna repeat all the comments on excellent build quality and amount of cool toys. I've only done a few minor adjustments since I got my game. Apart from the standard witch leg tuning, I put a couple of washers between the monkey bracket and backbox so the monkey wouldn't rub against the back of the top right castle door. Had to adjust the winkie target bracket a bit because the target wouldn't stay up after a while--a minor tweak so the target would be more centered in the pf hole and not rub against the side. And recently the wizard saucer eject started shooting the ball softly right between the flippers. I started to open the game up to check/clean/adjust the kicker mech, then stopped myself and just went to the menu and upped the coil strength from 22 to 24--perfect ejects again! This is a nice feature, where every single coil can be adjusted. I also tweaked the timing for the ball lock releases, and it geneally works fine but once in a while I still get 2 balls released by accident. Not sure how to prevent this. Reducing the timing further has the arm coming down too soon and resting on the front ball.

One thing I can't figure out is the frequent airballs from around the ramp entrance. Any thoughts? Everything looks OK, although maybe the right side of the metal flap isn't tight on the pf (and no, tightening the screw doesn't help). Maybe remove the ramp, clear out the cutout area at the entrance so the ramp sits in it better? I wish I didn't have those airballs. And the Glinda target is not leaning back at all.

Some setup tips to make the game even better. Be sure the balloon pop in the left outlane is very sensitive! Also, munchkinland loops can be too easy with constant double loops on almost every shot. For a challenge, lower the flipper strength enough so you need a really perfect shot to (barely) make a double loop; you'll know you have it right when you can still make the double loop but miss a lot of them. Or, you can weaken the flipper enough so that only single loops are possible (REALLY hard!). Lowering the castle flipper strength makes it more interesting too.

One thing I will comment on is the lighting. I don't play in the dark, but the pf area is not well-lit, esp. around the flippers. I added a lighting kit with double spotlights on the slings and an led strip under the apron, along the exit hole guide. Seriously, this makes the game MUCH more enjoyable. I've played a few WOZs at various locations, in both well-lit and dark environments, and honestly, mine w/light kit makes it SO much more playable, plus you can see the killer playfield art. Those bright insert LEDs overwhelm the eyes with direct light, and you really need extra reflected lighting to see the surrounding playfield.

Like iceman, I've had some killer games and then been hit with runs of really bad (sub-75k) games. What I love about this playfield is the variety of shots and angles, and a few key shots can be made with either flipper (winkie, ramp, witch, etc.). I have gotten pretty good at backhanding the crystal ball spinner with just a bit of rollback. Fan games are OK but get to be boring after a short while--WOZ really tests your ability to get the ball back after making many uncontrollable-but-necssary shots, like the witch, rainbow targets, etc. And I really like the 'exposed' pop bumpers that can throw the ball around the pf (as the trees throw apples in the movie!). I don't understand why pretty much every other game in recent memory has the pops in an isolated, enclosed area with just one or two small exit paths, so the pops are separated from the main playfield.

Gonna play some more WOZ today, and hopefully start a run of some 'good' games!

Can't somebody just paste the message on the castle loop adjustment here?

^ something to be proud of.

No, introducing people to pinball and growing the hobby is commendable. A handful of people here in NYC have also done an amazing job over the past few years too. And there are many other growing pinball "hubs."

I did mine too, and it makes a big difference. The ball tends to stay in the castle loop when shot, instead of bouncing out most of the time. All I did was to slide the pf out a bit, hooked a finger under the middle of the upside-down-U-shaped wire at the top of the loop, and pulled upward to bend it up a bit. Would not have thought to do this on my own, and interesting that it fixes the bounce-out problem so well...

Your game might be shaped a bit differently out of the box. With mine, about 2/3 of the good shots to the loop would stop at the top and come back out. Now they go around smoothly.

Mine's on 3, average settings, with a ballsave, and it works fine. Some games are bad and pretty quick, some are quite immersive and longer.

For WPT, put it on 5 (6?) ball and extra-easy. It'll be a major stacked multi-ball fest! Too crazy to even keep track of what;s going on.

Yup, you have to get the other 4 CB modes first to reach the Frenzy. Think of it as yet another "mini-wizard mode." I think this was a good change, as you have to be pretty good to get to it and should know what to expect, reducing the amount of sudden drains by novices when it would come up randomly for them.

I'm pretty sure that was Keefer's thinking when changing Frenzy to be the last CB mode. How long does Glinda return the flippers to normal? (I'll confess, I haven't made it to Frenzy since the update!)

You can make the Cb spinner from the left flipper, if the ball rolls along the flipper a bit while held up. As soon as it starts rolling down the upraised flipper, a well-timed quick tap will shoot the ball into the spinner. I haven't been able to do it from a straight trapped ball, but a quick tap on a trapped ball can give you the rollback you need. Same shot for the Wizard saucer. You can also make both directly--just need to time it right to shoot when the ball just rolls onto the curved tip of the flipper. Practice!

I think the skill factor may relate to the variety of shots across the entire playfield, many of which are tight (like the CB spinner, individual Rainbow targets, wizard saucer, left orbit) plus many shots can and should be backhanded. After this shot variety, playing another regular game seems to have fewer/easier shots to pick off. (A better example of this type of "training" game is WPT: the 'flow' shots are way up high, so the closer ramp/orbit entrances on other games seem much easier to make.)

A subtle adjustment on the castle mini-pf. Shots to the top/right loop often bounce out on some games (like mine). The easy fix (no tools needed!) is to hook your finger under the wire lane guide at the top, and pull up on it gently to bend it upwards a bit. Helps to guide all good shots through the loop instead of bouncing out!

Bringing in the outlanes doesn't make it that much easier--the wider outlanes are serious drains!

Any update on an impending update?

Is this true? Can you do a short plunge, catch the ball on the lower right flipper and then hit an XB standup to get the skill shot and light all 4?

Lloyd's advice is good. I would also recommend the cliffy protector for the edge of the right mini-playfield. I would NOT install the metal rings around the rollovers. Besides the lack of any wear issues around the buttons, these protectors cover some artwork and look ugly, and I've read they can also cause damage if you ever try to remove them.

You might consider a lighting kit as well. Even in moderate room lighting, the central playfield around the flipper sis really dark. (Unless they have changed this recently.) The lighting kit I put in mine (3 double spots, a strip under the apron and one under the backbox) made a huge difference in playability.

You need the game's master volume set loud enough and/or very efficient ear/headphones for the audio. There's a separate mute button below the headphone volume buttons to turn the main speakers on and off.

Coming soon to a download page near you!

For those who missed it, fixing the search loop just requires pulling up on the wire guide at the top of the castle pf right loop to bend it upwards a bit. I had a lot of bounce-outs here and this fixed it like a charm.

Regarding the plunger issue, try loosening the nuts attaching the plunger to the cab just a bit, so it is held on firmly but can be moved. Then move it slightly and take some test plunges until you get a clean plunge, and tighten it in that position. (This works for any game that may have an off-center plunger, of course.)

And it is probably due to the fact that the rgb led lights have 3 separate colored led emitters that blend to provide a spectrum of colors. As the displayed color of each led smoothly varies, the intensity of each emitter changes, and they are located close together but not in the same spot, so the light appears to ripple or undulate as it changes color.