Turn down the coil strength so the rubber will last longer. Also, if you're careful, you can replace the rubber without removing munchkinland.

Mirco

What I know for certain is that the playfield pictured in the post by 1quartershort is a Mirco. No question.

If all you want is to take off the actual trees, it's 2 nuts then lift them off the pegs.

Okay first things first. I would take another flash stick and backup your settings and high scores before 6.06 full install re-writes your hard drive. This is important for coil settings and house adjustments so you don't have to do all that stuff all over again.
Use the green menus - utilities and back up your settings first.
Then, if you've used unetbootin to build the flash stick correctly for 6.06, start from game power off and plug in the stick. The machine will re-write the hard drive. After it's over, power off machine, remove stick, power on, then utilities menu and restore backup.

There is a 12v harness pigtail there in anticipation of the state fair balloon being lit, hence the adding of a "kit" or whatever is obvious; I personally like the balloon unlit but to each his own.

The original WOZ is built into an old TZ cabinet so it's the same width. For a replacement front lock down bar You might try to reach out to Terry at pinball life if it's a standard WOZ anyway.

Data cables are wired wrong somewhere. That is, they are running from a board to another board not anticipated by the computer. Rainbow is the end it's not there. Go to the spot where it goes from okay to off by one and then compare the data cables - how they are routed versus how the chart on the chassis lid says they should be routed. At that spot you'll find the mistake.

Correct. You need data cables for it too. The power cable looks like its there and tucked back out of the way.

Open a ticket on the support desk or just call Frank 732-364-9900 then press 1

Yes 2084 has it right also

They'll send you the part with the bracket together. You just mount it with one screw and plug in the cables, then turn it back on in the computer.

On the crystal ball and as long as you seat the cable tightly you don't necessarily need to reglue it.

They often put the sticker in the packing list envelope on the box. If you don't have it, email Jen and they'll make you another one.

Anyone can put in a help ticket you just fill out all the information including the serial number (not game number - serial number begins with 087--).
Be sure to put in a valid email address also. You have to sign up the first time with an email and create a password but that's at no cost.

And just to add, the WOZ 2.0 lighting is based on the Hobbit system but it is not identical to the Hobbit system. That is, it is not wire for wire, board for board the Hobbit system. It is more a derivative of the Hobbit setup. I doubt that clears anything up but I tried.

Basically that's right. Not that I'm trying to speak for Keith.

Raise the back legs - game plays too slowly with the feet all the way down all the way around. I believe in the manual / setup instructions it says to spin the back feet up half way.
I wouldn't panic over the non start. There is no shut down period. One thing you could check - inside right front opposite the power switch is the silver cover with the line fuse on it. It has one of those push down and turn tops and is spring loaded. You can try reseating it to make sure it's down properly in place. Sometimes they aren't down correctly and thus the game will be dead only to work again once they are reseated in place.

the most recent RRs made still have numbers

Make sure coil stop allen screws are tight. Move flipper in and out by hand and compare how that feels to a flipper that works properly see if you feel any resistance or rubbing or something impeding a nice smooth "thwack" when you hit the coil stop.

Make sure that you can pick the flipper up and move it slightly up and down (pretend you are trying to lift the flipper off completely from the top side) there should be slight up & down movement over the plastic bushing (feel the good flippers again first). If the flipper is down too tight, it will drag and slow the flipper down

oh duh - obvious - return spring is missing look around it fell or broke off

The customer never put it on, perhaps? The sticker usually comes in a packet on the shipping box if he bought it new.

You got it.

You're welcome - it was merccat who noticed the spring missing while I was running through my checklist of stuff to try.

Same fuse protects all 3 slingshots so see if they work.

Playfield glass off, slide playfield forward to the second set of "feet", then flip up and rest it against the top front edge of the backbox so that it sits firmly and you can use both hands to work. Silver chassis lid off (loosen thumbscrews, slide lid from right to left and lift out). Machine power on. Close coin door to restore High Power. Look at I/O board (largest board, left side). There are 10 fuses in one row and 4 more in the row above that near the top edge of the board. Each fuse has a red LED light near it. Light on = fuse is almost certainly good. You can test a fuse with a meter also as long as you do it with the game power off. The four top fuse are the "main" fuses and the ones in the row below are the secondary fuses so losing a top one will not blow the secondaries necessarily but they will be dark too.

GMA fuses, slo-blo type (normal or fast blow will not work), amperages are listed on the end cap of the fuse and also in the manual. Change fuses ALWAYS with game power off. Power up game, watch fuse. If it blows right away there is something in the circuit that needs investigating and then get back to me and I'll help you.

I doubt all three are blown although it's possible. I'm thinking examine 702 with a meter or at least visually. Pull it out and look at it. If it's blown, the other two LEDs on 707 708 will be dark but those fuses may be good. Examine them too but don't mix them up. F702 is 10am 707 is 6.3amp and 708 is 5amp.

Ball goes up the right orbit, if it is supposed to do so, magnet grabs ball, monkey starts down. Magnet sense is mounted behind the back panel right there, and senses the magnetic field telling the game that the ball is holding on the magnet. You can test it during the monkey device test. Coin door interlock must be pulled out so that magnet will energize when you roll the ball up there. Game MUST see right orbit enter opto AND right orbit made micro switches for it to turn on the magnet above the OZ lanes and start the sequence. NOTE: with the software as it is now, if the game fails to see the magnet sense switch even though the magnet may actually be holding the ball, it will still turn the monkey around part way down (it assumes the magnet failed to grab the ball so it sends the monkey back home) HOWEVER, if this happens three times, the software decides that the magnet sense switch must be faulty and tells the game to ignore it and just send the monkey on down regardless. There is a bowling alley around the corner from the factory that has one of the first 10 WOZ games made and it doesn't even have a monkey magnet sense switch installed (nor is the harness for it even present), yet aside from player 1 game 1 of each day when the machine is turned on, you wouldn't know it because the game ignores the magnet sense almost right away if it thinks there is a problem. True story!

Right orbit: game needs to see the orbit entrance opto under the house playfield and then the right orbit made microswitch in order to activate the magnet and send the monkey down. Make sure the right orbit made rollover works with fast and slow rolled balls in switch test and or magnet sense test.

Nope it's plugged into the wrong spot on the opto control board underneath near the house. It should read as switch 16 in the white violet row 8. Go under and move the plug from the green socket to the violet. The green one stays empty on purpose.

I aspire to knowledgeable...

Munchkin magnet grabs the ball to attempt a slow feed to the upper right flipper when the witch is lit for something ala Magna Save on Dirty Harry. The top magnet grabs the ball whenever an orbit hurryup is scored, so if one is running down and you shoot the orbit (regardless of the capture Dorothy situation), the magnet will grab the ball briefly to allow the game to play the fanfare of collecting the hurryup, then drop it to the lanes.

Camera helper is a better analogy with Pat on the team.

Lovely!

I'm probably wrong but I thought all the 2.0 system did was let the rest of the game lights remain uninterrupted if one failed. I would assume you would still have to replace the same amount of messed up boards unless they went with more robust electronics. (less prone to static)

This is indeed wrong; 2.0 is completely re-engineered from the ground up: It is loosely modeled after Hobbit but in practice it sets up and works most like the system that is in DI. It involves many cat 5 cables and a BAG board that runs the lighting system from underneath the playfield.

Turn the upper sling down in coil settings. 2 works fine or 3 gives you good action without over wearing the rubber.

WOZ 2.0 build began December of 2016; in 8/2015 it would have 1.4 buffered boards

The led board versions are +5v unbuffered, then 7.5v unbuffered, then both got buffers added, then 1.1 7.5v buffered, 1.4 7.5v buffered, then finally 2.0 which is a new system entirely.

And the 2.0 upgrade kit is coming soon also

I don’t think it’s locked down yet but less than 1k

Hey - take a look in from the right side at the solder joints on the lock release coil. You could have a broken solder joint where the wire is still in place but subject to vibration. I’ve seen that cause your repeated lock arm open and close issue.

Two things: under the playfield is an opto control board (in this case the right side one) - the lock optos are the first three plugs (starting with Black in the front). Make sure they are all pushed in tight (they click into place). Put the game in matrix switches test and tap your fist between the slingshots on the playfield to create vibration with no balls in the lock. See if the vibration causes one opto to read off and on.
Two: look in from the right side at the lock coil (under the munchkin hut decoration) - I have often seen the solder detach from the coil tabs but stay through the hole (the wire does) so that vibration makes the wire connection intermittent and thus the lock arm repeatedly goes up and down.

Security dongle - game won’t boot without it.

6.50 delta is latest. 6.06 is last full install.

Switch to a purple shooter spring for a bit more strength if you like.

Not the end of the world. If the game was just moved, go over every power plug and especially data cable on every light board and make sure they are pushed in tight to their sockets. NEVER unplug or plug in any power (black/purple) LED connector with the game power on, but data cables you can manipulate fairly freely. Chances are something is loose, at worst you have one board failing and you can find it by just following the chain. LTG and many of us can help.

Spotlights are different not controlled lamps - 30 is the small gi board in the front left corner of the castle playfield. It has a long output data cable that feeds gi 13 bottom left corner of the main playfield.

Move the long green input data cable from 13 in to 14 in see if 13 is the issue. Make sure the long cable on 30 coming out of the red is in tight.

Okay try jumping from 10 out to 13 in. That skips 12 and the castle playfield entirely in case 30 is the issue.

Do you have a unified power supply? Front right section of the board chassis in the bottom center of the game, is there a printed circuit board there with a bunch of fuses and LEDs on it?

Match in the game settings what you did physically - turn off woz5 and whatever else you bypass and the colors will correct.

You can get a spare 16” cable from the company if you want. That will allow lots of range for jumping. Plus, you can unscrew the one screw holding on a gi board and move it around in the air to make it easier.

New code 6.60 delta is up.

==============================================================================
== Version 6.60 December 12, 2017 ==
==============================================================================

=== Game Code

* Improved initialization for 2.0 LED system on older motherboards
* Fixed lamp effects on Skill Shot and Toto Escapes
* Tweaked lamp color in TNPLH to be more sepia-ish
* Don't show Today's High Scores page if there are none to show
* Removed adjustment to kick out locked balls at game over (always ON now)
* Toto Escapes: drop target now stays up (just like TNPLH)
+ Added some sounds to a few targets that were silent
+ Added some speech in a few places
* Winkie Drop target knockdown coil hit softer on first kick

=== Core Code

* Fixed audio mixing issue that resulted in distorted sounds
* Fixed ball tracking error caused by losing ball from lockup during ballsaver
+ Added CUSTOMIZATION sub-menu under UTILITIES in Diagnostics
* Fixed a drain/tilt condition that could cause a game to hang
* Suppress knocker when Match is skipped via start button (on free play only)
+ Added check for switches stuck closed/open at power up
+ Added check for any opto switch working at power up; multiball devices will
not kick if no opto switch working
+ Added display message at power up if Test Report error detected
* Trough will abandon kicking after a while
+ Added check for all trough switches closed (including jam); trough will not
kick when this condition detected (likely a failure of the trough board);
game will not start during this condition, and a Trough Error message is
displayed
* Multiball devices will abandon kicking with coin door open now; abandoned
devices will kick when door is closed
+ Added Knocker Strength adjustment
* Turned on Test Report "dot" Paid Play preset
* Turned off Today's High Scores for Paid Play preset
* Fixed "Last Game Scores" displaying after Factory Reset
* Removed erroneous "Coin Door Open at Init" logger event when exiting Diag
* Hide Pindemption presets when not enabled via dongle
+ Added Status Report Start Time adjustment
* Allow main screen scale/offset adjustment on all monitor types

=== OS

* Fix for screen freezing with older motherboards.

Oops double post.

Still testing but hopefully ready soon.

Also that plate has a proper side that should face UP and down - maybe yours is flipper the wrong way ?

Tests - device tests - spinning house test. Two numbers on the screen. Bottom adjustment is for coil strength for the feet. Leave that one alone. The top one is where you adjust the timing. Change it up and number or two, test by hitting start button to spin house and see, adjust again, etc. It can go into negative numbers if you need to and you may need it to do so. Warning: two things to know - first, always err on the side of the feet not quite coming down enough rather than too much, because if the feet come out all the way, the spring won't be able to pull them back in and on the next house spin, the feet will still be out and it will get stuck. Second thing, the house always travels slightly - very slightly - farther in game play than it does in test mode, so when you are finding your setting, cheat in test and have it just slightly not quite far enough compared to where you want it to land, then try it in a game and it will be spot on.

Using a few 7.5v boards on a 5v machine is okay. No harm done. The thing you cannot do is go the other way - if you run 5v boards in a 7.5v game they will work for a short while, then fail.

Turn off Gi 4 in the settings menu that will fix the sync problem

On the munchkin loop upper switch, it can sometimes hit the cables beneath the playfield wood when the arm is traveling down. Make sure it can go up and down smoothly and it not rubbing on the edge of the wood groove or hanging on or being impeded by something underneath.

In the factory they use a 1/4" thick plastic block when adjusting the height of the bottom of the "U" on the lock arm to measure the distance between it and the plastic ramp below. Now please stay with me here I will try my best to explain what I mean. You mentioned the small "tongue" tab underneath the metal arm. That is the key as you said. What you want is to adjust the arm so that the landing spot is 1/4" above the plastic ramp. Naturally there is a bit of bounce as the arm lands and you wouldn't want the thing to come crashing down and land on the 1/4" block hard (imagining it were always there even during game play) as if it naturally it wanted to land lower, you want its resting place to be JUST 1/4" above the plastic ramp surface. Ideally your adjustment would result in the arm being in this position: you have your 1/4" block and the arm is down at rest, okay? You take the block, place it on the ramp and slide it toward the arm from the front - you don't want it to hit the bottom of the "U" on the arm and stop, you don't want it to push the arm up noticeably while sliding through but you also don't want it to completely miss the arm altogether not touching it at all - ideally what you want is for the block to (for lack of a better term) kiss the arm gently on the way by. That's the best result you can get. Now when you are making the adjustment, one of the most common things to do is one you want to avoid especially, and that is, when looking in from the side, it is tempting to think that to adjust the arm to the correct spot you can just grab the rear "wall" of the bracket behind the coil and tweak it forward a bit or pull it back a bit. Try NOT to do that; it's easy to grab and you would think that would be a quicker fix but it can elongate the arm in relation to the optos and screw other things up and contribute to the ball stopping short of the front wall of the arm as you described because it is too low and out of place. That can get more things out of kilter so try not to touch that at all. Just go for the 1/4" over the ramp surface adjustment and THEN you can use the timing settings you mentioned - they actually can help because the balls and the arm behave differently when there is one ball locked up there versus two and then three. If the arm isn't getting down fast enough when it is releasing one of two balls that are parked there, you can shorten that time but then tweak it differently when there are three balls up there depending on how the arm behaves then. You can use the timing settings as needed to tweak how the arm behaves best in each situation so they can be useful. However, first things first, get your arm height adjusted properly and then before you do anything else, experiment with it by starting a game with the playfield down and the glass off. Start a four player game and then lock one or two for player one and then start looping the ramp while playing player two, judge how the arm is handling things with two balls locked and another arriving again and again, then lock one for one player and loop the ramp with no locks lit and see how it handles one, and so on - you get the idea - if it's mostly good, then tweak your timing settings and get it dialed in as best you can. You are never going to get it perfect every time but you should be able to get it to be pretty consistent and it all works off of the proper height adjustment for the arm to start with and then work from there on the nuances. If everything fails, you can of course turn on the virtual lock setting in the software so no one in any multiplayer game or anytime has to deal with any unfair situations involving the lock. Hope that helps.

Advice you did not ask for: get the kit, grab the packing list and the instructions and lay out everything on a nice flat open spot so you can see everything including all the spacers and everything. Make sure you have everything and all looks correct. You can not thank me later.

Email Shannan ([email protected]) and tell her you want to order a WOZ 2.0 LED kit. She’ll get an order setup for you.

throne room vuk opto switch 15 AND witch down switch 23 share row 7 the white with blue trace. Chances are something else on that row has a broken double wire and that’s knocking out both of those. You were fiddling around a lot under there so something got bumped or broken. If you want a guess, check the bottom of the skill target on the left middle edge amongst the pops. That target snags on the playfield going up and down and chances are you lost the blue and white there. If not, follow along row 7 on the matrix and check each switch one at a time. Somewhere you’ll find a break I’m betting. Start with the skill target though. Trust me.

That looks fine - remember that the first 6 small inserts in the yellow brick road are different than the rest but LED wise that looks good.

LTG beats me again

Virtual lock
Single door does not open

They did change them slightly - no more microswitches up there now optos on top on castle playfield.

Automated updated their older stock with 2.0 kits. I too have an escalera bought from Flip n Out and love it. Congrats on the new game!

30-000034-01 GI rainbow glo acrylic rod 1.72"

Technically I guess, yes, since they can shuttle games down in groups and have the kits installed at the factory.

Yup

Put a piece of electrical tape across the magnet and it won’t do that - swap out the pinball.

Unplug and replug the male connector going into the pink jack on the sound board. If you have a noise filter installed, by pass it in case that’s causing the problem.

No rr games that exist now have the boards in the head. The next run of rr games, should there be one, would have the boards up top like DI and pirates.

No

LTG has a guide he can send you about changing that rubber.

Also you can gently flex that clear plastic out of the way without pulling out the mounting posts as they are flexible. I’ve always been able to do it with an 11/32 nutdriver.

Witch came up because you lost the 5v dc to that opto control board. Motor keeps running until it sees that up opto and it never did.

Does he go back up the hill in test mode? If he does, the problem is he is “plugging” on top of the pinball because he is traveling too far down just a bit - a thread or two - on his threaded rod. Imagine you took off the monkey decoration and could see the small magnet coil - you want him to stop so that the farthest edge of the small coil (not the plastic) bisects the playfield magnet core exactly. Adjust up the bottom microswitch arm JUST a bit so that he stops just higher on the hill than you would think he should. Just a tad sooner than now and his magnet will pull the ball over ever so slightly before lifting it up. Too far down he stops exactly as you describe.

And congrats - WOZ is great when you get it dialed in just right.

Manually means backing them up the way you always have using the utilities menu I think

Yeah I didn’t care and just erased them when I did the update earlier.

Thanks, Honda

This should be correct.

Dongle is programmed with the game serial number which tells it which model of WOZ you have and the code adjusts from there.

Running 7.01 Ruby Red - still have the plunger sounds also

Magnet sense board components face in towards the back of the back panel do not overtighten

You need to use Rufus or unetbootin to make your flash stick for a full install update like 7.01

Using small tongue under lock arm, adjust height of arm. You want the bottom of the U at front of arm to be exactly 1/4 inch above surface of plastic ramp surface. That’ll solve release problems. Pull playfield forward to reach it no disassembly required.

Not out of stock at the factory; the web store isn't always up to date. Still, your other information is valuable.

There are artwork decals but only the very early playfields might need them.

Standard

No. Game number has nothing to do with build order.

JJP is who I’m talking about - other manufacturers I’m not sure.

Check the connectors at the back of the silver board box in the center, inside and out. One there is for the woofer.

YBR WOZ has the 30.5" legs - longer than the other WOZ models

Loosen the screw holding the wall, pull the wall away, retighten the screw. I’ve seen that work often.

I assume you bumped up the coil power setting and that didn’t help? Default is 10 or 12 but mine works perfectly on 9. YMMV

Munchkinland loop upper is the top house playfield rollover and is not a guarantee to be hit especially if novice players play. Test switch tests matrix switch tests and roll the ball around the house and see if it works. If it does error will go away.

Almost impossible is too strong but it can be tricky for sure. In my experience the weakest spot to get consistent hits is dead center as you say. You did try working the sliders underneath right? I mean loosening the nuts and moving the switch brackets? That can be the answer more than bending switch actuators. Behind the bash plate (I call it that - the thing that gets struck by the Ball) are springs that can resist against its moving and keep it from getting stuck back too far. Behind the front strike plate there are two places where it attaches to the bracket through two parallel holes and the spring keeps it straight and absorbs the impact of the Ball but it still needs to push the switch actuators open - think of it as a more elegant version of the safe on Sopranos where the impact from the front tries to push the metal “flags” into and thereby close the microswitch actuators which are normally open. This is the reverse with normally closed switches having their arms pushed away. So it’s a bit counterintuitive in a way. I’m just glad the same mechanism didn’t end up on the Hobbit production model as it was supposed to most of the way through the design process. Anyway, it’s certainly doable. The last software version but one also changed the de-bounce (if that’s right - need Keefer) timing so if your witch was for lack of a better term dialed in before, and then you updated to 6.60 (I think), it might no longer be perfect.

Keith's prototype WOZ is sitting in a TZ cabinet. To quote a semi-famous person, Pat L on a bad day is worth a drawer full of anyone else.

Nothing is exactly bulletproof, granted, but the failure rate on all iterations of what is essentially the woz 2.0 light board system is a tiny fraction of what it was on the original system. No getting around that when push comes to shove.

There is no point in you and I debating it anyway since it is not a profitable exercise. The difference between the various LED systems is out there for people to experience on their own as time goes along. Me firing statistics at you wouldn’t matter because at the end of the day JJP owners games have the light boards they have and there is no debate or argument for “should I upgrade my LED boards” on any of the 4 newer tables, it’s only WOZ. The 2.0 led upgrade kit wasn’t developed because Eric and the gang had nothing else better to do, obviously there was a need and the realization that the existing need would only grow because the life cycle of the chip on the 1.x boards on the majority of existing WOZ machines was ending. Every kit sold not only takes one more of the finite number of WOZ games out of the subset of games featuring non 2.0 but it frees up the owner to sell off their original boards, thereby cutting down their own cost substantially but also resupplying the pool of available 1.x boards to help the remaining original owners. The kits are selling very well and are performing beautifully for the most part and that’s all good news. The failure rate on 2.0, Hobbit, DI and pirates led boards is so low that it is almost statistically insignificant, whereas the rate on 1.x WOZ boards is much higher.

The majority of 75ths out there are or at least were non- 2.0.

The first six inserts in the yellow brick road are colored so yes