Yes, WOZ is really something special. It has always looked great and had tons of stuff packed into it but I think 3.0 has really tied everything together. Just finished playing for about an hour. Really get's the adrenalin going!

That rescue multiball is such a tease. I keep trying to get it started before hitting the Emerald City multiball and so often fail. Ahhh...risk versus reward, love it! The challenge of trying to get balls going on all three playfields simultaneously along with a crystal ball mode to increase the "super x" playfield multiplier is fantastic.

I find the main shots very satisfying to hit and am starting to use the middle right flipper a lot more. I originally thought it would be a blind shot, but I was surprised to find that I can see the ball approaching through the hole in the Munchkin land playfield just enough to hit the witch or get the ball into the pop bumpers fairly consistently.

My opinion would be to wait for an HUO LE if you can get one for the same price as the standard (or less). If you put out a WTB post one might free up. If it's local you save on shipping too. All around a much better value.

The emerald green armor, habit trails, etc.. and cleared cabinet really are things of beauty and set the LE apart. I wouldn't be too concerned with LED problems. Though annoying, support at JJP will help you get the game stable.

My game is tough! The incline is pretty steep and I have it set on 3 balls with whatever the defaults were for 3.0.

Great fun though and it keeps me hitting the Start button.

Maybe if I nudge a little better this game.

Maybe if I avoid starting weak flippers during rescue multiball when I only need one more ramp shot to stack ECMB.

Maybe if I .....

I think it's a little early to say as I'm still in the honeymoon phase. At the moment it is tied with my all time favorite TZ.

It has satisfying shots, a layered rule set, the LCD and its content are well done, it has humor, great sound, is well made and beautiful. To me, it's a masterpiece. It remains to be seen if the sound and/or gameplay become tiresome down the line.

Keep in mind though that I've always liked the Wizard of Oz and its music. I also like a shooters game where you need to get control of the ball, decide which shot to go for, then hit the shot.

WOZ reminds me a little bit of juggling, if you get one ball out of line, you quickly find yourself chasing the rest until they're all on the ground.

Of course, it needs to be working to enjoy, so hopefully the LED issues are put to rest. My machine hasn't been down due to the ability to bypass a broken board but it seems like many people don't use this feature.

I've been finding some success by trapping the ball, then banking off the RES targets to the CUE targets and retrapping. Sometimes it hits the doors enough times that the doors open. Putting the ball in the saucer behind the door also awards a letter.

1) I remember reading how to do it somewhere, but no longer remember.

2) Part of the design. There is a slight bend in the right hand metal guide under the munchkin playfield that causes this. Some people have tried to straighten the guide but it is like this on all the machines.

3)Normally the loop awards a letter, but if you have all the rescue letters lit, the "search" insert in the loop turns green and the big insert in front of the door turns yellow. To rescue Dorothy and start Rescue multiball you have to hit the doors a few times causing them to open then put the ball into the saucer behind the doors. If you hit the loop when the insert is green you will get a virtual ball lock, and the rescue letters must be collected again before you can rescue Dorothy, but when you do it will be a three ball multiball. Rinse and repeat for up to a five ball Rescue multiball.

4) The Crystal ball shot can be tough, but I don't notice an unusual amount of rejections (unlike the search loop on the castle playfield before I adjusted the metal guide wire).

I was thinking the same thing but did not want to say it, since as I said, my memory is sketchy. But, if we both think it, it's probably correct.

I stand corrected. Thanks for the answers Alex.

I'll have to take a look at the exit to my shooter lane now.

Orbits are smooth and never hang up.
Auto-plunge often makes it around without hanging up.
A hard normal plunge hangs up.

I thought this was normal operation.

Thanks for the tip. I'll have to give it a try.

Congratulations! It's a great game.

Do you mean the left flipper? If so, are you talking about the feed when the ball gets kicked out of the Crystal ball VUK (vertical up-kicker)?

First, download the software by going to the link below

http://support.jerseyjackpinball.com/downloads/woz/

Under the Full Game Install heading, Click on [Wizard Of Oz - Full Install ISO - 5.05]

The file is very large (about 4gB) and should take about 20min to download.

I recommend using IE (Internet Explorer) browser as I've had problems with Google Chrome not doing a complete down load.

When the download is complete you should make sure it downloaded okay by verifying the checksum.

To do this, you can run the utility listed below:

http://www.winmd5.com/

The output from the utility should match the following:

8a4a45aa5e73bc6b6c0060228f88b41c

(this is the code you get when you click on [MD5 CHECKSUM] on the JJP download site)

This is the most time consuming part of the process and will get you half way there. I haven't installed the new version on my game yet, so perhaps someone else can take over from here.

Also note that updating the software usually isn't this complicated. Normally the updates are small (delta), require very little time to download and only have a couple of steps after. However, since this is a major update, a full install is required.

The Cliffy protector looks great but for cheapskates like me, a 3" x 1" piece of foam rubber weather stripping along that edge also works and can't be seen from the players perspective.

#1) You should be able to loosen the two screws holding the monkey plastic and slide it back a bit so it doesn't hit the door. (There is no adjustment to the door)

#2) Upgrade to 6.06. It isn't too difficult and makes a significant difference.

#3) Not sure. I don't notice the plunger to be unusually stiff but it's so subjective. Check to make sure it's not binding.

#4) Yes, probably gap.

#5) Yes, that is wrong. Go into switch test mode and thump the playfield in front of the witch to see if the witch switches are tripping. Updating the software may help with this. And/or they may need to be adjusted.

2)When all the LEDs are white, it can cause a hum in the speakers. Mine does the same thing.
3)There is a leaf switch that gets tripped when the bumper skirt is touched by the ball. The blade of the leaf switch can be adjusted to make the bumper more active.
4)You shouldn't rest the playfield on the state fair balloon. Put a pillow or use one of the foam pads that shipped with the game to keep the balloon from hitting.
5)The apron slides onto that metal plate to keep it locked down when lifting. It shouldn't stop the ball.
6)Mine did this too. Applying a little downward pressure on the top of the glass as it approaches helps. It did get smoother over time.

Very difficult shot. I have more luck backhanding it from the right flipper.

It is much easier with two balls on the right flipper, but you can do it with just one. If you attempt a post pass the ball usually stays on the flipper and you can back hand it as it rattles around. Still a low percentage and dangerous shot but satisfying to hit.

I really dislike the way the ball bounces with Superbands and the way they grip the ball as it transitions from the in lane. I like the Titan silicone bands better. They are easier to put on, can also be cleaned and have a truer bounce.

Good to know. Haven't tried Pinball Life's flipper bands yet, I'll have to give them a shot.

The pinballs that ship with WOZ are fine. I've heard of others having this problem but don't remember the solution. I suggest asking Lloyd (click on the DEAR LLOYD section on the main forum page, upper right). He is the JJP service guy and can help with all your issues.

I think he is talking about the ball rolling off the upper playfield and onto the lower playfield after the monkey drops it.

Good suggestion about the electrical tape. I just hit the flipper button to make the ball drop on the rare occasion the magnet doesn't release it.

I think there is a mylar protector in that area that a slow moving ball can get hung up on. I haven't had an issue with my machine but I have it set up pretty steep. I've heard of the issue before and I'm sure Lloyd knows the cause and solution.

Also, if you don't like where the blue shot is, hit the witch to move it to an easier shot.

Actually, it gives you two letters, though this may be a setting. Hitting the "search" loop also gives you a letter until they are all collected, then it gives you a virtual locked ball and resets the letters.

Default should be fine and I've never seen that happen either. Pimp77 may have the answer. You needed to bend the outer wire up on early WOZ's to keep the ball from bouncing around and getting rejected in the search loop.

Edit: Never mind, posted before seeing Lloyds post. I'll leave it here in case it helps someone else.

I never had a cable fail, it was always a light board, usually a small GI board. I think the troubleshooting technique is to find the first board that is not working correctly (they're numbered and the manual shows how they're daisy chained) then bypass the board before it.

Reasoning is that the board that is bad is not passing the data on to the next board. If this doesn't work, then try bypassing the board that appears to not be working.

Once you bypass the problem board the lights should start doing something. To get them working correctly you have to go into the settings menu and let the system know which board(s) was bypassed.

Thanks Lloyd, edited my post.

I used similar weather stripping but only put it on the first couple of inches to protect the edge that gets hit. Can barely see it from the players perspective. I like the look of the natural wood edge.