(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

10 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (10 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (7 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (5 years ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (5 years ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (5 years ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (5 years ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (4 years ago)

Post #11015 Adjustment advice for the monkey Posted by LTG (3 years ago)

Post #12537 7.03 Code Release Posted by bobukcat (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider CrashJT.
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#13970 1 year ago

Hi guys! I'm new to the club. Recntly bought a Rr75Oz with 2.0 light boards. Love it so far, but it's really hard! Moved in the NPLH outline pin, but gee. Have it at 7 degree. Saw some people suggested 6.5. Any thoughts? Also, I might need to adjust the balloon to be more responsive. Seems to not bounce a lot. The munchkin ball lock also seems to let a third unlocked ball to blast two locked balls out. Read the thread up to page 12 so far. The height of my ball lock arm seems to be the recommended 1/4" and kisses a block inserted. I played with the timing and extended ball 2 and 3 to 250ms. Feels like if there were a strong down force (eg a spring to pull the arm down) it would help. Should I live with the occasional 2 ball fake "multiball" or go crazy adjusting. Have spent hours already. Thanks in advance. Wonder why JJP doesn't revise it if everyone's does this? (Plan to read the whole thread but i read slowly). So far I've added the pingraffix blades, 3D doors, the castle lantern, the castle flipper topper from and Sparkle green city from Back Alley Creations, Wizard fire pots from Mezel Mods, some white trough lights from lermods (added a 90 degree piece mine to the underside of the bottom arch so the light goes over the flippers), also getting the firey witch, flickering balloon, and corn row from pinball mod Co. Would love the Gouiva flying monkey if anyone knows of one. I also added several hallmark items including Glinda, munchkin mayor, coroner and Winkie guard loin scarecrow and tin man.

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2 weeks later
#14036 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

If the lock is releasing too many balls you need to decrease the coil timing, not increase.

Thanks. That makes sense. I figured it out. The spring was not on the arm. I found it in the con box and reinstalled it. Now it works well. Thanks all.

2 weeks later
#14074 1 year ago

I have 2 questions. The other day, I turned on WOZ and instead of booting, it came to a text menu with 2 choices. The default was Ubuntu, and I forget the second, but it was saying to use the keyboard to make selection. There was a 15 second countdown timer. After waiting out the 15, it booted fine and hasn't done it again. Does this mean anything? Why did it happen?

My other question is in regard to the spot light 2 pin molex connectors. Does anyone know which size the pins are? I have some m/f crimp connectors for a standard "PC 5.25" floppy drive" connector, but they were a smaller gauge than fits in the JJP spot light connector. I want to buy the right thing.

Thanks in advance

#14075 1 year ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

I have 2 questions. The other day, I turned on WOZ and instead of booting, it came to a text menu with 2 choices. The default was Ubuntu, and I forget the second, but it was saying to use the keyboard to make selection. There was a 15 second countdown timer. After waiting out the 15, it booted fine and hasn't done it again. Does this mean anything? Why did it happen?
My other question is in regard to the spot light 2 pin molex connectors. Does anyone know which size the pins are? I have some m/f crimp connectors for a standard "PC 5.25" floppy drive" connector, but they were a smaller gauge than fits in the JJP spot light connector. I want to buy the right thing.
Thanks in advance

I think the connectors are 0.93?

#14082 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

For the booting issue, maybe dead battery? There should be steps to correct this somewhere on this thread.

The next few times it booted fine, but I've changed the battery using the instructions from section E in the willy wonka manual available on Jersey Jack Pinball's site. Thank you for your help. The one in there was a no name, so assuming it was original.

#14087 1 year ago

I'm sick. My RR75WOZ Backglass slipped and broke. Does anyone know where I can get one?

#14089 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

JJP Part Number 60-000003-04
Display Name/Code WOZ 75th Anniversary Screened Backglass
there are some left

That's awesome. I hope so. Do i call JJP?

#14092 1 year ago

Thank you. Martha was great and is helping my WOZ get back on her feet!

Quoted from mikepmcs:

Yes, or email Martha at JJP with the info Steve gave you.
[email protected]
r/
Mike

1 month later
#14210 1 year ago
Quoted from deejaypee:

Thanks for the idea; the game worked great for two days and then went back to doing the same thing. I swapped the opto boards and it’s the same issue and switches m, so I reckon those are both okay.
Someone previously had mentioned looking for chewed or loose wires around the witch mech. I have a friend over and we were doing that, not seeing anything, but the switch frenzy certainly seemed to intensify when we were jostling the wires all around the witch.
We cut a few zip ties and inspected the wires around it pretty closely, not finding anything.
I think it’s weird how all the playfield lights flicker when all these switches go off. Seems like a clue to me, but could be normal I suppose.
We shall march forward on! Stiff upper lip and all that. Nevermind the blubbering bottom lip…

I'm not an expert and when all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail... that being said, if it's the case that your problem vanished when the playfield was out of the cabinet, then maybe it's kinda related to the skill shot problem. Let me say that my skill shot went crazy. I didn't know why. You couldn't see through the coin door that it was touching the ground/ playfield slide bracket. In my case since the skill shot was affected, I covered the back of the skill shot with electrical tape and it solved the issue.

My concern is that something is grounding and seems to happen when the playfield is in or possibly jostled. It could be anything I guess, but gee. It would cost less than $1 to temporarily cover the metal slides and ground wire with electrical tape and reinstall the pf. See if your problem goes away. If it does, then you could selectively remove pieces until your problem recurs. Then investigate that area more closely?

2 weeks later
#14275 1 year ago

Hi, I'm having a problem with my RR75WOZ. Randomly but several times within a 5 ball game, my castle doors open by themselves and you see the vuk try to plunge out a ball that's not there. The screen and music go to the "Rescue" mode. It may do it many times in a row, or just once. ( eg doors open, vuk ejects nothing, doors close, doors open, vuk ejects nothing, etc) I first tried shaking the game to see if there was any correlation, but there wasn't. I read the issues that another guy was having recently and tried unplugging my in game usb hub with Bluetooth and wifi dongles. Was REALLY hoping this would solve it, but it didn't. I also attempted to "clean the opto" thinking it might have to do with that vuk. I'm not sure I did this well or well enough. I put 91% alcohol on a q tip and "tried" to stick that into the vuk to the left and right. Couldn't really tell if it was cleaning anything. I also went into the switch test, and when this happens, the two door switches are lighting green. Any suggestions to troubleshoot this? Thank you!

#14292 1 year ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

Hi, I'm having a problem with my RR75WOZ. Randomly but several times within a 5 ball game, my castle doors open by themselves and you see the vuk try to plunge out a ball that's not there. The screen and music go to the "Rescue" mode. It may do it many times in a row, or just once. ( eg doors open, vuk ejects nothing, doors close, doors open, vuk ejects nothing, etc) I first tried shaking the game to see if there was any correlation, but there wasn't. I read the issues that another guy was having recently and tried unplugging my in game usb hub with Bluetooth and wifi dongles. Was REALLY hoping this would solve it, but it didn't. I also attempted to "clean the opto" thinking it might have to do with that vuk. I'm not sure I did this well or well enough. I put 91% alcohol on a q tip and "tried" to stick that into the vuk to the left and right. Couldn't really tell if it was cleaning anything. I also went into the switch test, and when this happens, the two door switches are lighting green. Any suggestions to troubleshoot this? Thank you!

Any thoughts on this? Thank you.

#14293 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Guess this is topical..

I'm also interested. Want to see the details though.
Looks like you had to move the castle walls?

#14295 1 year ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

I get this every now and then, the micro switches for the castle doors are quite sensitive and the return spring under the mini playfield for one of the doors can sometimes get knocked out of place and doesn't pull the door all the way in and other coils firing trigger the door switch and the game thinks theres a ball up there. A real pain in the ass to fix..
Check your doors in switch test mode and see if there is one which is just on the verge of triggering the switch when you push it. One of mine when this happens definitely doesn't feel quite right when it is meant to return to the closed position.
I can't recall which thread but I'm pretty sure there was some guidance on pinside which helped me pinpoint the spring and what you need to do to fix it.

Thank you! I will check that!
Full disclosure, when I installed the Pinball Mod Co awesome firey witch months ago, one of the two nuts that held the "witch tube" onto the metal base flew under my castle pf and has never "shaken free. " so I'm a bit concerned is wedged in there somewhere (over the rainbow... lol). I have on order full Cliffy set for WOZ, so I knew pulling all the mini pfs was in my future. It probably won't be here til Thanksgiving earliest though. So not sure if I should a) pull castle twice to fix this and later for Cliffy, B) don't play till Cliffy comes then do it all at once c) ignore the doors till Cliffys arrive.

Fwiw, in reading the complete thread but have been dying for months and today got to page 40 of 286!

1 month later
#14418 1 year ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

I tested the switch with a ball and with my finger.

If you now have the "broken" switch in your hands, you could test it for continuity Again with the dmm. If it shows that it's now actually faulty, then you could make the assumption that testing it "in circuit " wasn't accurate?

#14424 1 year ago
Quoted from cconway84:

I don’t know for sure if woz has tape. But I’ve never seen a game with only two screw (or bolts) that wasn’t taped. Games that aren’t taped have more like 5 screws like my monster bash remake.

The side rail of Medeival Madness SE (remake) also has the "two screws" visible along the rail, one in front that has a stud head with a nut on the inside, and a similar one in the back hidden by the head hinges. My Woz75RR has no visible screws on the rail.

2 weeks later
#14478 1 year ago
Quoted from Clint12:

The one battery up in top compartment?

The battery is in the metal box on the PC motherboard.

1 week later
#14493 1 year ago

I have a RR75th anniversary and I've tuned the spinning house perfectly in the Test Menu, but during gameplay it always uses different settings and only opens 1/2 way. I'm on Ver RR7.04. Is there some other place where I need to set the values or is this a bug? Thanks.

#14498 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd play with settings so it fails in test but works great in game play.
LTG : )

Exactly! Lol. The settings for my machine are spin =7 and open force =14 but the game clearly does not spin it to 7. It does less than 7, and so the "leg door" only opens 1/2 way. But in test mode with 7/14 perfect every time. Very frustrating. No one else notices this?

#14500 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

due to some slop in the mech the adjustment can be sketchy.
It can take 5 or 6 times to get it right.
I have had good success in manually turning the house a bit with the power off and letting the game re-set its position between adjustments.
The test doesnt re-set the house as good as it should. Manually turning it with the power off gets it where it should be "real world".
With a little patience you can get it really close and it will stay there for the most part.

So turn the power off and put the house where it is when I run the test and when I turn it on it will just work? Or set the house randomly then turn it on? Then do I try the test over and get new values? I want to do this but not sure what you mean. Thank you for the info.

#14501 1 year ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

So turn the power off and put the house where it is when I run the test and when I turn it on it will just work? Or set the house randomly then turn it on? Then do I try the test over and get new values? I want to do this but not sure what you mean. Thank you for the info.

Well, I rotated the house to where it "should" be to open properly with it off and then turned it on. The test at 7/14 worked perfectly as usual. With glass off I shot a ball, caught it, spelled rainbow with my fingers and threw the ball up the ramp for twister. Let the ball go around the house the prescribed number of times and it opened the same as always. The house needs to be a bit more counter clockwise. So i went into the adjustment and set it to 11/14 (4 more counter clockwise). The test now makes the popper rod hit the front of the house. Retried the "game test" above, and now the house opens properly, but the test will be too far counterclockwise (by 4). Will it stay this way? Was I supposed to do something differently? Was I supposed to turn the house clockwise when off so the test result matches the gameplay result? Thanks again.

#14510 1 year ago

Thanks all for the help. I agree it's annoying. Next time I'm near it I'm going to check that the sensor interruptor is tight and will try some of these things. Thanks again.

2 weeks later
#14538 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

I was thinking about putting side blades or mirror blades on but the playfield seems really tight against the cabinet compared to my other machines. Anyone have issues with this?

I installed the JJP Official art blades from Pingraffix. I think they look amazing. They fit just fine in my 75th Anniversary Ruby Red.

https://www.pingraffix.com/single-post/2019/04/05/official-wizard-of-oz-pinblades

2 months later
#14670 1 year ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

Hi, I'm having a problem with my RR75WOZ. Randomly but several times within a 5 ball game, my castle doors open by themselves and you see the vuk try to plunge out a ball that's not there. The screen and music go to the "Rescue" mode. It may do it many times in a row, or just once. ( eg doors open, vuk ejects nothing, doors close, doors open, vuk ejects nothing, etc) I first tried shaking the game to see if there was any correlation, but there wasn't. I read the issues that another guy was having recently and tried unplugging my in game usb hub with Bluetooth and wifi dongles. Was REALLY hoping this would solve it, but it didn't. I also attempted to "clean the opto" thinking it might have to do with that vuk. I'm not sure I did this well or well enough. I put 91% alcohol on a q tip and "tried" to stick that into the vuk to the left and right. Couldn't really tell if it was cleaning anything. I also went into the switch test, and when this happens, the two door switches are lighting green. Any suggestions to troubleshoot this? Thank you!

Update on this. The problem is very intermittent but annoying. Sometimes right when you start a game, the ball enters the shooter lane and then the winkie guard music starts and the doors open and the vuk ejects and the doors close and it may repeat a lot or not. It does it randomly at any time during gameplay. In switch test, all the switches work as expected. In the vuk opto test, you disrupt the opto, and it repeats this cycle 1 time (doors open, vuk fires, doors close). I discovered something I believe is related. With machine on and playing, I lifted playfield when vuk was behaving properly. The vuk opto connects to the brown opto plug underneath. If I unplug that connector from the opto board, the machine will do THE SAME THING going through that cycle repeatedly! If I plug it back in, it stops. This makes me think either the plug wasn't in good or there's a bad wire, or bad solder joint either on the opto or opto board plug, or could this be a bad opto? How do I best determine what's wrong? (First, I'm going to play a while and see if just reseating this brown plug fixes it. Oh please ). Any idea? Thank you.

1 week later
#14679 12 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Have you cleaned those optos and ensured they are aligned properly / aren't loose? If so I would assume you have a failing / weak transmitter opto.

Yes I cleaned them a while ago with no improvement. I think there must be some kind of loose connection as it always seems to work when I test the opto.

1 week later
#14710 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The tab that holds the switch looks like its there, you are just missing the protective plastic cover for the switch.
Item 2d in the manual, though you can fab one up pretty easy, or leave it off. It will still work fine.
All you need right now are 2 of the 2-56 x 1/2" screws and a 2-56 nut plate, then you can assemble it.
The missing parts are likely in the bottom of the cabinet somewhere.
Vacuum it out with e clean shop-vac and check all around the speaker and magnet.
I have vacuumed out tons of lost small parts over the years.

I agree. You can buy the screws at Home Depot or similar. Make sure to put something non conductive between the switch and metal plate (note that blue paper in my pic). You could probably use thin cardboard like from the back of a notebook, etc. That plexi window thing doesn't look too important. Maybe more cardboard? Or nothing?

Oh I see that little metal bar is the "nut" to hold the two switch screws. You could try just the nuts that come in with the screws.. but I guess that plexi holds the two screws thar certain distance apart.
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#14713 11 months ago

I installed the precision flippers on my RR75WOZ. If others have installed, would be curious what you set flipper strength to? (Mine were on 22 (maybe from previous owner. ). I'm trying 18.

I'll add the shoes after I finish adjusting them.

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#14715 11 months ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Interesting so many owners like the shoes. Cool… each to their own! One of my first orders of biz back when I got the game in 2014… order sparkle/red flipper bats from planetary snd holster the flipper/shoes.
For me, looks better without

I actually Do like and did buy a set of the shoes... but I'm waiting till I play test these new flippers a bit before I install the shoes because the adjustments are on top (and will be under the shoes).

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