(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

10 years ago


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  • 15,273 posts
  • 753 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 42 hours ago by fnosm
  • Topic is favorited by 331 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (10 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (7 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (5 years ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (5 years ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (5 years ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (5 years ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (4 years ago)

Post #11015 Adjustment advice for the monkey Posted by LTG (3 years ago)

Post #12537 7.03 Code Release Posted by bobukcat (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1709 7 years ago

Can any owners/fans characterize the call outs for WOZ? Considering buying. Played a lot of games on the WOZ at NWPAS and enjoyed it very much but I was really hard to hear the game there aside from witch cackles. For me, part of the enjoyment in some of my favorites; AFM, MM, MB are the call outs. Thoughts?

2 months later
#2324 7 years ago

Hi All

Unboxed a WOZRR yesterday. Fixed a few problems: lockbar and castle spot light but still having problems with the throne room/wizard lighting. When I first set up the game, the wizard tombstone was lighting but erratically. I reset the connectors and now the three lights just glow dimly & steady but do not light the tombstone.

Any ideas? Thanks.

#2354 7 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I had this exact problem when I unboxed my Ruby Red. The LED strip itself was faulty. Contact JJP and they should send you out a new LED strip. It's easy to replace.

Thanks Jakers

Called Frank at 222, have a new one on the way. I was trying to put in a ticket but found out there is a issue with the new user set up on the support site. As always, JJP was super helpful.

#2355 7 years ago

WOZ GI lighting

I am thinking about enhancing the GI lighting but do not really need the full kit that is available. Thinking about adding three spots, one mounted on the existing post for Dorothy house light and another new post with two spots near the crystal ball VUK. Plan was to tap into the L4 plug for the house spot and the L1 (may have them backwards) for the castle spot. Thinking I would just make a wye harness at each plug for the tap rather than messing with any of the factory wiring-plus it would be easily removable. Bulbs would be 12v led of course. Question is will the existing wiring etc handle the additional load? I am assuming that the led draw is minimal but not an expert.

Thanks,

4 weeks later
#2628 7 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

About to join the club this week - that said, I am getting an original run WOZ standard - no shaker, no Invisiglass. I'm starting to wonder if I should hold out for an EC or RR? Any advice? Or should I just not worry about it and upgrade later if I want?

Went through the same process a few months ago. I bought a NIB WOZRR. They are all great games I just thought the RR was the better value. As I recall, the RR was about $1,200 more than the NIB STD. Primarily the RR adds the following:

Shaker & invisiglass-value $500
Tornado, 3D resin castle walls, resin toto-value $350 from Back Alley
Printed manual (along w/cd rom)-value you decide but I think JJP sells them for $150
Powder coated legs, side armor, lock bar and habit trails-value you decide but in my market that is $600+ and it is beautiful deep ruby fine metallic. Plus the extensive habit trails in ruby rather than chrome really blend nicely with the play field. And if the game stands alone or at the end of a line up, the RR really looks nice.

Again it is whatever suits you, it is a tough choice but.....it is a lot of fun and nicely made! If you want NIB you might call automated, Mike had some pretty good deals going.

#2631 7 years ago

Sorry DC fumble finger error trying to click quote for my reply. Working from iPad. No harm intended. But don't fret I am not going to bother contributing on pinside. I will just read and move on. Cheers.

2 months later
#3018 7 years ago

Question for you WOZ experts.

Who made this playfield?? WOZ RR build 8/15. Asking as I am seeing the beginning of small cracking/chips in clear around Throne Room with cliffy installed since new. Less than 300 games. Coil power set well below factory setting.

Thanks,

playfield topside (resized).jpgplayfield topside (resized).jpg

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4 months later
#3888 6 years ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

I put in the pinball bulbs brightening kit, and it is super bright. I might be reducing the number of spotlights or trying to dim them somehow. Any thoughts or experiences with this? It seems like overkill.
Also I've been having an intermittent sound issue which I think I have traced to the RCA cables coming from the PC. But it seems like possibly several of them are causing the problem, as I can't isolate it to just one cable. It goes in and out when I wiggle/adjust a few of them. Has anyone had this problem or replaced the cables and/or barrel connectors at the PC they plug into?

I put the pinballbulbs three tower kit with the apron led strip and backboard strip in mine as well. It was the later all 12v version without the original little voltage stepdown box. The original set used 6v bulbs. The 12v system is way too bright for my tastes as well. When I asked about it they just said, take out some of the bulbs..bah.. Anyway, I ordered a bunch of bulbs from comet, with various brightness and color. Used one of the lights in the pinballbulbs kit but changed all the rest and the factory JJP bulbs. Very happy with the results. Can play in a fully lit to fully dark room and it is great. Try a couple of OP Max sunlights for the middle of the field, (2) 1 COB ambers pointing toward the witches nose, a 8smd purple on the castle spot, 8 smd purple from the throne room area spot pointed to the forest, a 9 smd purple right next the forest pointing to the forest as well. Then you can use the pinballbulb provided lights to light Dorothy's house from the JJP spot. Then you can go into Settings, System and put the led brightness at "lower" and that should look pretty good. The mid field will be bright enough to see the ball well, the castle and forest will be cool and gloomy, the flipper area will have a nice glow and you will be able to see the ball well on the munchkin playfield. Also I painted the chrome light housings black on the exterior so they look factory. Good luck.

1 month later
#4006 6 years ago

Hi Guys

What non-JJP balls are you using in your WOZ? I replaced my original JJP supplied set for Marco Standard balls, the ones in the five pack. They say they are resistant to magnetism but in my game they get magnetized really quickly. Usually the problem is two balls getting hungup under the munchkin playfield when you get the munchkin mode/twister awarded during a multiball. The ball falls down to the magnet, magnet holds it for a bit and at the same time another ball comes down the orbit. Then the two balls get stuck on the orbit guide/magnet. I put in two sets of Marco balls, both did the same thing. Put the JJP balls back in and no more problem.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

2 weeks later
#4120 6 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Yeah the super shiny ones from Marco are very pretty but not appropriate for use in games with magnets. It gets worse too... eventually they start sticking to each other in your ball trough and up in the munchkin huts causing issues with ball recognition.
I'm currently using a set of standard balls I got from them at a recent show. They look fine and no more magnetic balls. Nice thing about getting them from Marco's booth at a show is you can pick them out yourself. I've never seen one with a chip or anything but just paranoid I guess. They coat them with a little oil to keep from rusting while in storage so make sure to clean them up before installing.

Thanks Merccat

Actually the ones I bought were the Marco Standard Balls, not the shiny ones but the ones they advertise resisting magnetism item PB116-5. Within 20 games on my WOZ they start to get magnetized and by about 30 games they are sticking to the rails, the trough and even the castle doors being virtually unplayable. WOZ is a magnet happy game but the Marco Standards do not work unless some how I got three bad packages-all 15 did the same thing. However the factory balls from JJP went about 350 games before they started to get a even the slightest bit magnetized.

1 year later
#6395 5 years ago

All/LTG

Anyone know the voltage for the throne room led strip?

If so, anyone try to replace it with a strip from say Comet.

Physically about the same size, Comet leds may be too bright but willing to experiment if I can get the voltage.

Would order from JJP but frankly they do not last (on my second in two years with very modest play) and the shipping is absurdly high.

Thanks,

#6399 5 years ago

Thanks all

I will post what I come up with and how it works.

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