(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

10 years ago


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  • 15,275 posts
  • 753 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by zermeno68
  • Topic is favorited by 331 Pinsiders

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#4701 6 years ago

Ok,

I bypassed 10->13 and bypassed w5 and everything downstream lit up. Progress!

Running through the led test all colors are good except red or green. When I go red or green all the boards are a mix of red and green.

So, it looks like so far my bad boards are :
30
W5

As of right now.

#4702 6 years ago

Match in the game settings what you did physically - turn off woz5 and whatever else you bypass and the colors will correct.

#4703 6 years ago

I did and the colors are still borked and things are randomly strobing. There has to be more boards shot. Giving up for now.

#4704 6 years ago

With the castle and w5 bypassed in settings, I still have 1 light in EACH of my rgb boards that is green when it is supposed to be red in led tests.

In gameplay, it’s all kinds of wonky.

I’m really hoping not every damn rgb board is fried.

A324E5BA-84C0-4755-AAA1-857C47DD0396 (resized).jpegA324E5BA-84C0-4755-AAA1-857C47DD0396 (resized).jpeg

#4705 6 years ago

Keep tracing back until you find the fault. They key is to keep going back. One bad board can have really weird effects on things downstream. You also need to change the software settings to omit the board(s) you are jumping over.

#4706 6 years ago

I did change the software settings and took out all boards that were bypassed.

#4707 6 years ago

Looks like 28 is bad too. I wish I had a set of test wires that was like 6’ long to help in this process

#4708 6 years ago

You can get a spare 16” cable from the company if you want. That will allow lots of range for jumping. Plus, you can unscrew the one screw holding on a gi board and move it around in the air to make it easier.

#4709 6 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

It doesn’t seem to be hitting anything.
Auto plunge shoots it right through to the pops. It’s just when I manual plunge it has issues getting through sometimes.

I agree, sounds like your spring needs adjustmwnt or replacement.

Also, fyi, most of the time you want to soft plunge to get the witch shot. Maybe some one modded it to make that easier. My wife still doesnt quite get it yet...

#4710 6 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

Looks like 28 is bad too. I wish I had a set of test wires that was like 6’ long to help in this process

Did this all start to happen at once when you were getting in there to adjust the shooter rod?

#4711 6 years ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

Did this all start to happen at once when you were getting in there to adjust the shooter rod?

Hah. No. I was playing a game (grand champion game dammit) and half the field locked green. Upon reboot, the half that was locked green went full strobe light disco inferno.

#4712 6 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

Hah. No. I was playing a game (grand champion game dammit) and half the field locked green. Upon reboot, the half that was locked green went full strobe light disco inferno.

Oh no GC was going to happen! I was just trying to figure out if something got bumped. The good news is about WOZ that when something goes out it seems like the world is falling apart because everything looks haywire but it really is just one little thing (usually one board bad or a wire/connector on the board loose). So don’t regret your purchase and just know that it’s going to get fixed very easily.

You have an incredible game that just needs a little fix to get it back to 100%. It’s a heck of a game and one of the tops. Keep us all posted, as everyone will chime in and help.

I would try to unplug and plug back in the boards that you think are bad (and do the one next to it to be safe if you are unsure) and then turn them back on in the settings if they have been disabled. It could be a loose wire or connection and start working again. If not you may need a board but try this first.

#4713 6 years ago

IF things are randomly strobing, makes me think something is loose somewhere. Does it strobe when you give the cabinet a bit of a shake? You might need to go through each board in the light chain and re-seat power and data connections.

#4714 6 years ago

one thing I've noticed that has never worked properly was trying to disable the tree bumpers.
when you hold the flippers down it's supposed to disable them right?

seems like maybe one out of 10 times it works, maybe.

is it anytime when you do it, or do you have to roll over a certain switch first?

#4715 6 years ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

one thing I've noticed that has never worked properly was trying to disable the tree bumpers.
when you hold the flippers down it's supposed to disable them right?
seems like maybe one out of 10 times it works, maybe.
is it anytime when you do it, or do you have to roll over a certain switch first?

There are settings in the menu. One setting allows you to disable the tree bumpers at any time by holding the flipper buttons and one setting allows you to do it only when the Haunted mode insert is lit to start a mode.

#4716 6 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Your issue might be diff then. pull the glass and go into test mode. fire the coil for the lock arm with no balls in it. does it work? go to the switch matrix, make sure balls are registering for each position in the lock, do they? Assuming both of these parts are fine.. continue testing, put one ball in the lock, fire the coil.. 2 balls in there, fire the coil.
Report results. trying to figure if something is dead or if the mechanism just needs adjusting.

Sorry it took so long to get back. Fingers crossed everything check out in test mode. So i lowered the incline and i think its fixed. 3 games later and 7 multi balls it looks like its working.

#4717 6 years ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

Sorry it took so long to get back. Fingers crossed everything check out in test mode. So i lowered the incline and i think its fixed. 3 games later and 7 multi balls it looks like its working.

If lowering the incline fixed it, then that tells me it probably is the lock arm that needs to be adjusted. Steeper incline = more pressure on the lock arm = more power needed to lift it.

If you are happy at the current incline, play and be merry, but if you feel you would enjoy it more at a steeper one, let us know (I (or someone) can dig up that lock arm adjustment how-to pic I made way back when)

#4718 6 years ago

I had several issues with my WOZ when it was new, but with the help of the JJP Support Team, and some really awesome people on this website, everything got fixed, and I MUST SAY, working on this machine taught me SOOO MUCH about repairing pinball. I'm relatively new to ownership, and truthfully, the knowledge and the CONFIDENCE necessary to tinker around underneath these playfields, which this game gave me rather quickly, is almost priceless IMO and I am actually THANKFUL that my machine had a few relatively minor issues which had to be worked through. Otherwise, I'd still be scared stiff (LOL) dreading the day something goes wrong.

#4719 6 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

I had several issues with my WOZ when it was new, but with the help of the JJP Support Team, and some really awesome people on this website, everything got fixed, and I MUST SAY, working on this machine taught me SOOO MUCH about repairing pinball. I'm relatively new to ownership, and truthfully, the knowledge and the CONFIDENCE necessary to tinker around underneath these playfields, which this game gave me rather quickly, is almost priceless IMO and I am actually THANKFUL that my machine had a few relatively minor issues which had to be worked through. Otherwise, I'd still be scared stiff (LOL) dreading the day something goes wrong.

When things did occur on my WOZ, I was previously just well versed with the DMD era Bally/Williams. After something came up with my WOZRR, I contacted support at JJP to see if they could help. Frank got on the phone and walked me through diligently and kindly on how to fix/test and replace. They also sent me a new piece for a fix that I didn't even know that I would need down the road. Excellent service and I agree that I learned a lot, and if you can do it on these highly advanced JJP machines then you can do it on anything.

The forums are so helpful and in those moments it's good to see the many positive aspects of Pinside. It's all what we make it and if anyone uses it negatively then it really just reflects on some unhealed portion of themselves to others. It's pretty clear then, but much more clear when everyone is truly helping each other out to resolve issue to get thing going! Nothing is worse than a downed machine. Your world seems to stop for a moment. The whole reason Robin built Pinside was for making things better and I have seen this thread (and others) have such great people chime in along with LTG from JJP as always lending a helping hand.

Looking forward to more JJP products and the legacy games they are creating!

#4720 6 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

If lowering the incline fixed it, then that tells me it probably is the lock arm that needs to be adjusted. Steeper incline = more pressure on the lock arm = more power needed to lift it.
If you are happy at the current incline, play and be merry, but if you feel you would enjoy it more at a steeper one, let us know (I (or someone) can dig up that lock arm adjustment how-to pic I made way back when)

Would still like to see your pics. Im always about dialing in my pins. Im thinking this was just a band aid fix. Jjp is so different than what im used to. I appreciate all the help and very thankful to you all.

#4721 6 years ago

My rrwoz still has an odd lighting issue on start up at times. Only the upper playfield inserts will light. I used to have to open the machine and jiggle the wire loom up the middle of the playfield, but now i found i can just nudge the machine a bit until it pops back on. Ive never been able to track down any loose connectors. Very odd.

Im also still having issues with the sound. The rca/mini jack issue seems to be whats going on. I lose callouts and low end and I have to mess with the rca jacks and mini jack to get it back.

Any tips on either of these issues?

#4722 6 years ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

Would still like to see your pics. Im always about dialing in my pins. Im thinking this was just a band aid fix. Jjp is so different than what im used to. I appreciate all the help and very thankful to you all.

here is the last time I see the pic pop up:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/68#post-3622082

If you pull the glass and put a ball up the ramp and into the lock, see where the ball rests against the lock arm. The front has a bit of a lip, if its sitting just under the ball, more balls and the steeper incline can some times be too much for the coil magnet to pull up. You can tweak this by bending the lower bracket (that it rests on) up slightly (so that the bottom of the lock arm is a bit closer towards the middle of the ball). The first time I did this I brought it up too much and the balls wouldnt stop/catch (so I would start with just a tiny bit, it may take a few rounds and you'll want to test it before putting glass back on). I just used some slip lock pliers to carefully do the bend. Havent had to play with it since.

#4723 6 years ago

Thanks bro much appreciated.
Harley D.

#4724 6 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

My rrwoz still has an odd lighting issue on start up at times. Only the upper playfield inserts will light. I used to have to open the machine and jiggle the wire loom up the middle of the playfield, but now i found i can just nudge the machine a bit until it pops back on. Ive never been able to track down any loose connectors. Very odd.
Im also still having issues with the sound. The rca/mini jack issue seems to be whats going on. I lose callouts and low end and I have to mess with the rca jacks and mini jack to get it back.
Any tips on either of these issues?

I would suggest reseating all connectors on each board one at a time and then opening up the computer tower in the bottom of the cabinet and reseating the connectors on the board and going into the back(audio, 12v, etc). Power off of course. See if anything improves and let us know.

#4725 6 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

There are settings in the menu. One setting allows you to disable the tree bumpers at any time by holding the flipper buttons and one setting allows you to do it only when the Haunted mode insert is lit to start a mode.

ok, that makes perfect sense. felt like there was something I was missing, if it's default I'd rather leave it that way.
thanks

#4726 6 years ago

Help needed!

I have a minor annoyance with my winged monkey. It has stopped releasing the ball completely behind the castle door. It goes down, picks it up, carries it to the top, then the ball just sits there attached to the monkey. When I hit the flippers a few times, it drops due to the vibration. When I first got the game, it would drop the ball on it's own about 75% of the time. Now it never does.

What should I do?

#4727 6 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

What should I do?

Put a piece of black electrician tape on the monkey's magnet.

LTG : )

#4728 6 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Im also still having issues with the sound. The rca/mini jack issue seems to be whats going on. I lose callouts and low end and I have to mess with the rca jacks and mini jack to get it back.

I just had an issue with losing callouts and the low end of sound. Also, the total volume was much quieter. I'm not sure what you mean by the rca / mini jack, but I had reseated all the audio cables, and it didn't help. I contacted JJP, and they gave me spot on advice. First, on the sound board, which is in the middle right of the metal box in the cabinet, reseat the pink cable. If that doesn't work, see if you have a noise filter that will be attached to the right of the board, cable tied on the right side. It looks like a black box, and one jack goes in and another comes out before going to the board. Bypass the noise filter. If that fixes it, just keep the noise filter bypassed. They told me it was not necessary and was removed from later models.

By the way, this is just another example of excellent JJP support. I thought something major was wrong with my sound. Playing around with things myself didn't fix it. A quick ticket in to JJP, and I received the exact answer within half a day. Awesome as always!

#4729 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Put a piece of black electrician tape on the monkey's magnet.
LTG : )

Seriously?!? That's all I've needed to do all this time?

Interesting.

#4730 6 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Help needed!
I have a minor annoyance with my winged monkey. It has stopped releasing the ball completely behind the castle door. It goes down, picks it up, carries it to the top, then the ball just sits there attached to the monkey. When I hit the flippers a few times, it drops due to the vibration. When I first got the game, it would drop the ball on it's own about 75% of the time. Now it never does.
What should I do?

Is the ball sticking to anything else? could have some magnetism. check the balls

#4731 6 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Seriously?!? That's all I've needed to do all this time?

Interesting.

Yes.

LTG : )

#4732 6 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I just had an issue with losing callouts and the low end of sound. Also, the total volume was much quieter. I'm not sure what you mean by the rca / mini jack, but I had reseated all the audio cables, and it didn't help. I contacted JJP, and they gave me spot on advice. First, on the sound board, which is in the middle right of the metal box in the cabinet, reseat the pink cable. If that doesn't work, see if you have a noise filter that will be attached to the right of the board, cable tied on the right side. It looks like a black box, and one jack goes in and another comes out before going to the board. Bypass the noise filter. If that fixes it, just keep the noise filter bypassed. They told me it was not necessary and was removed from later models.
By the way, this is just another example of excellent JJP support. I thought something major was wrong with my sound. Playing around with things myself didn't fix it. A quick ticket in to JJP, and I received the exact answer within half a day. Awesome as always!

Thanks man, I will try all of this on Friday night.

#4733 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Put a piece of black electrician tape on the monkey's magnet.
LTG : )

It worked. Thank you!!

#4734 6 years ago

My gosh, just got my Woz back working, paid for smoke witch mod should be arriving soon, life is good.

#4735 6 years ago

Okay, new issue with my winged monkey. Seems like the first one or two times he goes down, he goes down VERY slowly. Then after picking up the ball, there's this terrible screeching sound, then he heads back up even slower. He never makes it all the way up, and the ball drops down to the playfield. After that, he seems to work just fine (goes down quickly, picks ball up no problem, travels back up quickly and deposits the ball). Is this some sort of "warming up" I don't know about? Do I need to lubricate anything to stop the short screeching sound?

Thanks!

#4736 6 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Okay, new issue with my winged monkey. Seems like the first one or two times he goes down, he goes down VERY slowly. Then after picking up the ball, there's this terrible screeching sound, then he heads back up even slower. He never makes it all the way up, and the ball drops down to the playfield. After that, he seems to work just fine (goes down quickly, picks ball up no problem, travels back up quickly and deposits the ball). Is this some sort of "warming up" I don't know about? Do I need to lubricate anything to stop the short screeching sound?
Thanks!

I had this issue and just lube the pole he rides up on with some white lithium grease and you will be good to go!

#4737 6 years ago

....sorry....

#4738 6 years ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

I had this issue and just lube the pole he rides up on with some white lithium grease and you will be good to go!

I ended up cleaning and lightly greasing the threaded rod as well. Solved the noisiness for me.

#4739 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Put a piece of black electrician tape on the monkey's magnet.
LTG : )

that's genius!!
I just nudged the game a little when it happened.

#4740 6 years ago

one maybe issue I'm having (not sure if it's part of the code). In the destroy the wicked witch mode, sometimes out of the blue it stops letting you hold the flippers. It's like that no hold flipper mode, but it stays like that even when you are out of that mode, until you loose your ball. The witch said something both times, not sure if it's a coincidence "you can't control my ball".

It's happened twice so far. The only reason I don't think it's part of the code is because its so random (first time I hit the ball shot 3 times in a row, second time I think I hit a red shot twice, not in a row) and it stays active even when you are no longer in any modes.

#4741 6 years ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

one maybe issue I'm having (not sure if it's part of the code). In the destroy the wicked witch mode, sometimes out of the blue it stops letting you hold the flippers. It's like that no hold flipper mode, but it stays like that even when you are out of that mode, until you loose your ball. The witch said something both times, not sure if it's a coincidence "you can't control my ball".
It's happened twice so far. The only reason I don't think it's part of the code is because its so random (first time I hit the ball shot 3 times in a row, second time I think I hit a red shot twice, not in a row) and it stays active even when you are no longer in any modes.

If you hit the crystal ball three times in a row without hitting any other switch, you get no hold flippers for the rest of the ball as a penalty. Otherwise, you can just cradle two balls on the left flipper and hit the crystal ball over and over.

#4742 6 years ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

one maybe issue I'm having (not sure if it's part of the code). In the destroy the wicked witch mode, sometimes out of the blue it stops letting you hold the flippers. It's like that no hold flipper mode, but it stays like that even when you are out of that mode, until you loose your ball. The witch said something both times, not sure if it's a coincidence "you can't control my ball".
It's happened twice so far. The only reason I don't think it's part of the code is because its so random (first time I hit the ball shot 3 times in a row, second time I think I hit a red shot twice, not in a row) and it stays active even when you are no longer in any modes.

You weren't trapping two on the left flipper and backhanding the Crystal Ball shot over and over, where you? I know the penalty for that during ECMB is no hold flippers until the ball drains, probably true during other MB modes as well.

#4744 6 years ago

==============================================================================
== Version 6.60 December 12, 2017 ==
==============================================================================

=== Game Code

* Improved initialization for 2.0 LED system on older motherboards
* Fixed lamp effects on Skill Shot and Toto Escapes
* Tweaked lamp color in TNPLH to be more sepia-ish
* Don't show Today's High Scores page if there are none to show
* Removed adjustment to kick out locked balls at game over (always ON now)
* Toto Escapes: drop target now stays up (just like TNPLH)
+ Added some sounds to a few targets that were silent
+ Added some speech in a few places
* Winkie Drop target knockdown coil hit softer on first kick

=== Core Code

* Fixed audio mixing issue that resulted in distorted sounds
* Fixed ball tracking error caused by losing ball from lockup during ballsaver
+ Added CUSTOMIZATION sub-menu under UTILITIES in Diagnostics
* Fixed a drain/tilt condition that could cause a game to hang
* Suppress knocker when Match is skipped via start button (on free play only)
+ Added check for switches stuck closed/open at power up
+ Added check for any opto switch working at power up; multiball devices will
not kick if no opto switch working
+ Added display message at power up if Test Report error detected
* Trough will abandon kicking after a while
+ Added check for all trough switches closed (including jam); trough will not
kick when this condition detected (likely a failure of the trough board);
game will not start during this condition, and a Trough Error message is
displayed
* Multiball devices will abandon kicking with coin door open now; abandoned
devices will kick when door is closed
+ Added Knocker Strength adjustment
* Turned on Test Report "dot" Paid Play preset
* Turned off Today's High Scores for Paid Play preset
* Fixed "Last Game Scores" displaying after Factory Reset
* Removed erroneous "Coin Door Open at Init" logger event when exiting Diag
* Hide Pindemption presets when not enabled via dongle
+ Added Status Report Start Time adjustment
* Allow main screen scale/offset adjustment on all monitor types

=== OS

* Fix for screen freezing with older motherboards.

#4746 6 years ago

Gotta luv the support jjp gives....that's why I keep buying their games !

#4747 6 years ago

I think my invisiglass was scratched by the door....ugh.

Is there any way to get it out or is it effed? Ill clean the glass front and back tomorrow night but I was wondering if there were any tricks. Im not totally sure its scratched, it may be a scuff.

#4748 6 years ago

Will be happy to see the Lighting effects back. Added speech and target sounds? Crazy, they just keep packing this game up, excited to try it out!

I imagine that unless any bug bugs pop up this will probably be the last update we see for a while though, they are probably clearing their plate to work on other games.

#4749 6 years ago

I’m glad Woz is getting another code update, this with TWD surprise code update it’s like the rich getting richer.

These being my two newest purchases is great for me.

#4750 6 years ago

UGH. I just finally updated to 6.50 yesterday...........

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