(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 15 hours ago by rzgrip
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There are 10070 posts in this topic. You are on page 94 of 202.
#4651 2 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

It’s for a family. I worry about woz’s difficulty as it wasn’t the easiest for me to pickup when I played it and I’m far from a great player. My wife loves the look of woz and the theme and the vote is split down the middle on DI and Woz.

You can always get the pindemption dongle to have different ways for them to play, like timed games with unlimited balls. It is $200 extra, but can be worth it for younger players. I have it, and don't use it much anymore. But, I've had visitors who are unfamiliar with pinball, and it works great for them.

#4652 2 years ago

I would think about how much of a haircut you will have to take if you decide to sell the WOZ. The 5V system is, perhaps unfairly, looked down upon and is a factor in resale. FWIW I have a 7.5V system and will order the 2.0 swap kit as soon as it is available. Mostly because I think WOZ will be the cornerstone of my collection for a very long time to come and I haven't had the best experience with the current light system. I definitely think it is worth the xtra$ for the stability.

#4653 2 years ago

Never seen dile for 8500 shipped,9000 shipped is the going price unless you know somebody that can do a deal like that.more power to you if you can

Also don't get hung up on trim color,they also is a standard with a nice topper and stainless trim,what you need to look for is buffered boards and then trim,unless you can get a used 2.0

#4654 2 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I would think about how much of a haircut you will have to take if you decide to sell the WOZ. The 5V system is, perhaps unfairly, looked down upon and is a factor in resale. FWIW I have a 7.5V system and will order the 2.0 swap kit as soon as it is available. Mostly because I think WOZ will be the cornerstone of my collection for a very long time to come and I haven't had the best experience with the current light system. I definitely think it is worth the xtra$ for the stability.

Honestly the resale is the major hold up on me just going and picking up this one. Even if you have no issues with the machine no one else wants to touch it. Is it known yet if the 2.0 swap kit will be able to be done to a 5v machine?

#4655 2 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

Honestly the resale is the major hold up on me just going and picking up this one. Even if you have no issues with the machine no one else wants to touch it. Is it known yet if the 2.0 swap kit will be able to be done to a 5v machine?

best way to know for sure would be to call and talk with Frank or Paul at Jersey Jack Service (732-364-9900 x1)

From what i know of the kit, it will be a complete replacement for the entire system. New power supplies, new data/power wiring, new light boards. Since the 7.5 boards replaced the 5v system and the 2.0 boards replaced the 7.5 system, I do not see why a 2.0 kit wouldn't replace a 5v system.

#4656 2 years ago

This may sound kind of dumb but when you push the black button in the coin door to get into the menus are the playfield lights all suppose to turn white? Kind of annoying because there's a hum coming from the speakers when this happens. I would think that the playfield lights would go out when going into menus. Thank you!

#4657 2 years ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

This may sound kind of dumb but when you push the black button in the coin door to get into the menus are the playfield lights all suppose to turn white? Kind of annoying because there's a hum coming from the speakers when this happens. I would think that the playfield lights would go out when going into menus. Thank you!

Yes, it’s kinda like a flashlight and is pretty thoughtful. If you have a hum then you probably need a ground loop isolator installed.

#4658 2 years ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

This may sound kind of dumb but when you push the black button in the coin door to get into the menus are the playfield lights all suppose to turn white? Kind of annoying because there's a hum coming from the speakers when this happens. I would think that the playfield lights would go out when going into menus. Thank you!

Just reposition you wire looms away from speaker and that should fix hum

#4659 2 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

The 5V system is, perhaps unfairly, looked down upon and is a factor in resale. FWIW I have a 7.5V system and will order the 2.0 swap kit as soon as it is available.

I just bought #203 ECLE. Can someone explain the 5V vs 7.5V and the "swap kit". Is the swap kit a wishful thinking item or is someone really making it?

#4660 2 years ago

There are new 2.0 light boards coming that are a complete replacement for the older boards. Not sure as to price... But frankly, if your light boards are working... just leave it alone.

#4661 2 years ago

When the game first came out it was 5 v and then the board troubles started and jjp thought if they changed to 7.5 it would fix or help the trouble and it did Not, so then they started with the buffered boards and that helped a lot but still not trouble free so they redesigned the system to 2.0 for hobbit and starting by in dec 2016 all woz games changed to 2.0 and now jjp is going to offer the 2.0 kit for folks that want to upgrade there games,I swapped all my 5v boards to buffered and have had to trouble since

#4662 2 years ago

The 2.0 kit is made and in testing from what I've seen. I know Lloyd is working on converting his ECWOZ right now. Very time consuming swap.

#4663 2 years ago

Picked up my WOZ today. Snowed in all weekend so it’s time to practice

#4664 2 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

Picked up my WOZ today. Snowed in all weekend so it’s time to practice

Congrats. Makes sure the outlane posts are narrowed to give your family the best chance to extend ball times to get some immersion in the gameplay.

#4665 2 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

Picked up my WOZ today. Snowed in all weekend so it’s time to practice

That’s awesome and perfect timing!

#4666 2 years ago
Quoted from rockrand:

I swapped all my 5v boards to buffered and have had to trouble since

Same experience I have had with mine. All good since switching to buffered.

#4669 2 years ago

What a great deal! Order a complete populated 2.0 playfield from JJP and you have a brand new game for a steal!

#4670 2 years ago

Anybody else have this issue? I will get a reject and or ball will get stuck there from munchkin protector. Suggestions?

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#4671 2 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

Anybody else have this issue? I will get a reject and or ball will get stuck there from munchkin protector. Suggestions?

Something is wrong.
I have the protector and there is plenty of clearance.

#4672 2 years ago

This game is amazing. The immersion, depth and aesthetic beauty of the machine is unmatched.

Question though. Is my plunger ridiculously weak or is something else amiss? I can’t plunge straight through the orbit. Best I can get is into the top lanes and into the top pops.

#4673 2 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

This game is amazing. The immersion, depth and aesthetic beauty of the machine is unmatched.
Question though. Is my plunger ridiculously weak or is something else amiss? I can’t plunge straight through the orbit. Best I can get is into the top lanes and into the top pops.

Is it hitting anything on its way onto the PF? You should def be able to plunge it around the orbit into the tree pops.

#4674 2 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

This game is amazing. The immersion, depth and aesthetic beauty of the machine is unmatched.
Question though. Is my plunger ridiculously weak or is something else amiss? I can’t plunge straight through the orbit. Best I can get is into the top lanes and into the top pops.

If you search my posts in this thread, I have a picture where I put some black sticky felt in the shooter lane to help with this. If you can’t find it, let me know and I’ll find it tomorrow.

#4675 2 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

Anybody else have this issue? I will get a reject and or ball will get stuck there from munchkin protector. Suggestions?

Your Munchkin playfield is too low. There are three screws that hold it down. Loosen all three — or at least the lower right one — by a few turns.

#4676 2 years ago

I have a standard WOZ, direct print can.love the game.Anyone in bay area that I could pay to work on a few issues? Mainly my lighting.
650 400 0207 text me ,pm,
Email krwhite82@gmail.com
Thanks Ken White CA

#4677 2 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Is it hitting anything on its way onto the PF? You should def be able to plunge it around the orbit into the tree pops.

Following. I'm about to install my cliffys. I think I remember someone saying that they only needed to turn the screw on that tab a half turn and it made a big difference.

#4678 2 years ago

It doesn’t seem to be hitting anything.

Auto plunge shoots it right through to the pops. It’s just when I manual plunge it has issues getting through sometimes.

#4679 2 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

It doesn’t seem to be hitting anything.
Auto plunge shoots it right through to the pops. It’s just when I manual plunge it has issues getting through sometimes.

It sounds like your spring maybe have come loose or is worn? I might need to be repositioned and stretched a little if you don’t have a replacement handy.

Also I have attached a pic of the shooter rod and put green arrows on the 3 screws to loosen and adjust if you need to do that to make sure the tip of the rod is hitting right in the middle of the ball.

Also you could replace the rubber tip too. One or all of these should fix it.

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#4680 2 years ago

Switch to a purple shooter spring for a bit more strength if you like.

#4681 2 years ago

Well, game lasted 3 days till the light boards died. 3/4 if the play field is a strobe light mess now. Gamble on old game failed

#4682 2 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

Well, game lasted 3 days till the light boards died. 3/4 if the play field is a strobe light mess now. Gamble on old game failed

Likely just the upstream most board is out. It will affect everything downstream. The manual has detailed instructions for what to do.

#4683 2 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

Well, game lasted 3 days till the light boards died. 3/4 if the play field is a strobe light mess now. Gamble on old game failed

Not the end of the world. If the game was just moved, go over every power plug and especially data cable on every light board and make sure they are pushed in tight to their sockets. NEVER unplug or plug in any power (black/purple) LED connector with the game power on, but data cables you can manipulate fairly freely. Chances are something is loose, at worst you have one board failing and you can find it by just following the chain. LTG and many of us can help.

#4684 2 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

Well, game lasted 3 days till the light boards died. 3/4 if the play field is a strobe light mess now. Gamble on old game failed

You need to figure out where in the series the last lights are working. I remember in the early games a lot of people were losing a board such as 15 when they had about 3/4ths of their lights going out:

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#4685 2 years ago

Game smells like smoked boards. Now 3/4 the lights are dead. Should have got the dialed in lol

#4687 2 years ago

Please post to YouTube or something like that then post a link back here. Not really comfortable clicking a link to a random unknown file, especially from a relatively new user.

#4688 2 years ago

Lol

#4689 2 years ago

it looks like 30 is the last working.

14, W7, 159, W5, 160 are strobing, the rest are dead

#4690 2 years ago

Spotlights are different not controlled lamps - 30 is the small gi board in the front left corner of the castle playfield. It has a long output data cable that feeds gi 13 bottom left corner of the main playfield.

#4691 2 years ago

Yes, I just saw that. 30 is the last fully functional light.

#4692 2 years ago

I agree, thats where I would start my search. Look for loose connectors and reseat the data connectors. No need to bother looking further down the line. After trying that if it is still not working the next step will be to start bypassing boards one at a time, again right in that area.

You can move the data lines around with the game on to immediately see results but me I would get nervous and still do it powered off. Once you identifed the board you can leave it bypassed then in settings set it as bypassed (otherwise the wrong lights will light in game).

#4693 2 years ago

Move the long green input data cable from 13 in to 14 in see if 13 is the issue. Make sure the long cable on 30 coming out of the red is in tight.

#4694 2 years ago

Just because it’s a bit of a hassle to remove the castle playfield I would first check the light data cables going to/from the castle (routed through a hole under there) and make sure they are securely seated.

Sometimes they get pulled and a pin pops out of a connector part way so giving them a little push in even when they look fully seated doesn’t hurt either.

You can also bypass the castle entirely to narrow it down to that area first but I wouldn’t leave it like that since it looks like most your castle lights are working.

#4695 2 years ago

I bypassed 13. No change other than 13 is off as expected.

Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Move the long green input data cable from 13 in to 14 in see if 13 is the issue. Make sure the long cable on 30 coming out of the red is in tight.

#4696 2 years ago

Okay try jumping from 10 out to 13 in. That skips 12 and the castle playfield entirely in case 30 is the issue.

#4697 2 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

Yes, I just saw that. 30 is the last fully functional light.

It does appear in your video that the winged monkey inserts are flickering which would indicate to me that the problem is likely there or before. I could not see if the GI in the OZ lanes (5 and 7) were working.

#4698 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Okay try jumping from 10 out to 13 in. That skips 12 and the castle playfield entirely in case 30 is the issue.

Ok, 10->30 brings w7 back online but w5 has like 1 functional (dim) led working on it and the rest down stream are still dead...

Regretting this purchase more by the second lol

#4699 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

It does appear in your video that the winged monkey inserts are flickering which would indicate to me that the problem is likely there or before. I could not see if the GI in the OZ lanes (5 and 7) were working.

5 and 7 are working

#4700 2 years ago

Do you have a unified power supply? Front right section of the board chassis in the bottom center of the game, is there a printed circuit board there with a bunch of fuses and LEDs on it?

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