(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

6 years ago



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#4551 2 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

One of my castle doors was sticking, so I decided to remove the castle playfield and see what was going on. Was able to finally tighten it up and it works great now, but in the process of unplugging all the connectors I broke one tiny wire off on board #13. It's one of the five wires in J101, I believe which is the "IN" connector (if I'm reading it correctly).
Now about 80% of my playfield lights are out (all near the bottom portion of the playfield). Am I to believe that this is happening because all the boards are chained together, so if one has an issue, all of the boards beyond that one on the chain will no longer work? And if I fix the connection, the lights will work again?
Thanks in advance for any advice!

You have this correct.

#4552 2 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

And if I fix the connection, the lights will work again?

Yes. ( assuming you didn't hurt anything else )

LTG : )

#4553 2 years ago

Looking for price help. What would be a fair price on a ECLE w less than 200 plays and 7.5 rev 1.1 light boards with these mods

castle walls, Toto, tornado, pdi target decals, and the emerald city mod

?

#4554 2 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

Looking for price help. What would be a fair price on a ECLE w less than 200 plays and 7.5 rev 1.1 light boards with these mods
castle walls, Toto, tornado, pdi target decals, and the emerald city mod
?

PM sent!

#4555 2 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

Looking for price help. What would be a fair price on a ECLE w less than 200 plays and 7.5 rev 1.1 light boards with these mods
castle walls, Toto, tornado, pdi target decals, and the emerald city mod
?

Probably in the $7500 to 8500 ballpark. Make sure it is an actual ECLE (# of 1000 on the wood apron) and not one of the green editions automated services was calling an emerald city edition.

#4556 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Probably in the $7500 to 8500 ballpark. Make sure it is an actual ECLE (# of 1000 on the wood apron) and not one of the green editions automated services was calling an emerald city edition.

It is. Thanks for the estimate. The guy wants 8200 and i thought that was high based on the things I saw sold on pinside.

#4557 2 years ago

recall my ball lock issue, well I just found out that the upper slingshot rubber was broken and may have been interfering with the ball lock switch in some way? Is it hard to replace the upper rubber and is there a preferred replacement that lasts longer?

#4558 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

recall my ball lock issue, well I just found out that the upper slingshot rubber was broken and may have been interfering with the ball lock switch in some way? Is it hard to replace the upper rubber and is there a preferred replacement that lasts longer?

My understanding is it's a huge pain you have to pull the mini playfield so superbands are the way to go.

#4559 2 years ago

I'm in the process of shopping out my woz and adding cliffys that I bought many months ago. I found chipping at the trough hole which I know is pretty normal. When I bought cliffys for my ACDC, someone suggested a cliffy for that trough that was from another game different location. Does anyone have a suggestion for a cliffy that could work here on the WOZ trough?

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#4560 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Is it hard to replace the upper rubber

PM me your email address and I'll email you the ten minute how to article.

LTG : )

#4561 2 years ago
Quoted from coz6:

My understanding is it's a huge pain you have to pull the mini playfield so superbands are the way to go.

It is not that hard at all to do. You just need to loosen the PF so you can slip the rubber on. As to type of rubber who knows. I have had such mixed results with different rubber lately I don't know which way to go. Good luck though!

#4562 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

PM me your email address and I'll email you the ten minute how to article.
LTG : )

Thx ltg. I'll be helping him

What size rubber ring ?

#4563 2 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

What size rubber ring ?

2 inch

Turn the power down too, on that slingshot, if it hasn't been done yet.

LTG : )

#4564 2 years ago

I have an extra Munchkinland edge cliffy for some reason if someone needs it. Never installed. make me an offer.

Added over 3 years ago: Sold

#4565 2 years ago

Got my light issue resolved, but now I have something new.

When playing a two player game, and a ball is already locked in the Witch's castle, when the other player has the ball grabbed by the monkey and it's going up to the castle, the single door won't open to allow the locked ball to be released.

But when I start castle multiball, the door opens just fine and let's the ball out. Anyone ever have this happen? What should I do?

#4566 2 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Got my light issue resolved, but now I have something new.
When playing a two player game, and a ball is already locked in the Witch's castle, when the other player has the ball grabbed by the monkey and it's going up to the castle, the single door won't open to allow the locked ball to be released.
But when I start castle multiball, the door opens just fine and let's the ball out. Anyone ever have this happen? What should I do?

What happens to the ball that is going up?

#4567 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

What happens to the ball that is going up?

It makes it all the way up and gets dropped off. Then I'm stuck with two balls behind the door. At first I thought it would drop the ball back onto the playfield once it got to the ball that was already there, but it actually crammed it up there. The door attempts to open, but won't. It's very bizarre.

#4568 2 years ago

Is the door actually trying to open or is it that the force of a second ball dropping up there makes the door move a bit? It's very strange that it would open for castle MB but not when a second ball is going up. It should actually be releasing the ball once the ball is about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way up.

I would check the switch behind the door... if it's not registering the ball, or maybe the ball gets moved to where it's no longer on the switch up there somehow I could see this happening. Since the door opens for other events I don't think it would be an issue with the door. My money is on the switch.

The only part that doesn't fit is that if the switch wasn't working you would think it would get stuck there on the first ball and not launch your new ball.... but if it's flaky enough to register on drop but then while sitting there get settled to where the ball no longer is holding the switch on I could see it thinking there is no ball up there.

#4569 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Is the door actually trying to open or is it that the force of a second ball dropping up there makes the door move a bit? It's very strange that it would open for castle MB but not when a second ball is going up. It should actually be releasing the ball once the ball is about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way up.
I would check the switch behind the door... if it's not registering the ball, or maybe the ball gets moved to where it's no longer on the switch up there somehow I could see this happening. Since the door opens for other events I don't think it would be an issue with the door. My money is on the switch.
The only part that doesn't fit is that if the switch wasn't working you would think it would get stuck there on the first ball and not launch your new ball.... but if it's flaky enough to register on drop but then while sitting there get settled to where the ball no longer is holding the switch on I could see it thinking there is no ball up there.

This is a good theory. Also, is there another switch or sensor so it knows when the monkey is 3/4 of the way up? I’m not sure, but if there is, a failure of that could cause the same behavior.

#4570 2 years ago

The door motor is definitely attempting to fire when the monkey is 3/4 of the way up, but something is causing the door to stop!

I'll double check the switch even though during the switch test it is registering when I put a ball behind the door.

#4571 2 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

but something is causing the door to stop!

The door shaft might be coming loose from the motor shaft below the castle playfield.

LTG : )

#4572 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

The door shaft might be coming loose from the motor shaft below the castle playfield.
LTG : )

If this were the case, wouldn't the same thing happen at the beginning of rescue multiball?

#4573 2 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

If this were the case, wouldn't the same thing happen at the beginning of rescue multiball?

You would think so.

But I've never had one while it was coming loose. I usually hear about them when they are totally loose.

LTG : )

#4574 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

You would think so.
But I've never had one while it was coming loose. I usually hear about them when they are totally loose.
LTG : )

I'll check it out. Thanks!

-1
#4575 2 years ago

To Buy or Not to buy . I read the last (7) pages of this thread . The good news a lot of support on this thread .The bad . It look like it is needed . I am lousy technician. There seem many (issues) with this WOZ pinball from what I just read over the last (7) pages . It is my "Grail" pinball. Not sure it is a fit for a person that is just not technically inclined.

#4576 2 years ago
Quoted from RobKnapp:

To Buy or Not to buy . I read the last (7) pages of this thread . The good news a lot of support on this thread .The bad . It look like it is needed . I am lousy technician. There seem many (issues) with this WOZ pinball from what I just read over the last (7) pages . It is my "Grail" pinball. Not sure it is a fit for a person that is just not technically inclined.

JJP just update did everything to a very reliable 2.0 system that really improved many things. I'd say pull the trigger if you are on the fence as all of their new machines have this. The game is truly amazing.

#4577 2 years ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

JJP just update did everything to very reliable 2.0 system that really improved many things. I'd say pull the trigger if you are on the fence as all of their new machines have this. The game is truly amazing.

Scott thank you for your input .

#4578 2 years ago
Quoted from RobKnapp:

To Buy or Not to buy . I read the last (7) pages of this thread . The good news a lot of support on this thread .The bad . It look like it is needed . I am lousy technician. There seem many (issues) with this WOZ pinball from what I just read over the last (7) pages . It is my "Grail" pinball. Not sure it is a fit for a person that is just not technically inclined.

You own 13 pins so you must have some technical ability. I’m not that tech savvy either, and I own a WOZ. I’ve had a few issues, but JJP tech support is second to none. Get your grail pin and enjoy. Plenty of help will be avaialable if you need it.

#4579 2 years ago
Quoted from RobKnapp:

Scott thank you for your input .

You are welcome!

Quoted from Nokoro:

JJP tech support is second to none. Get your grail pin and enjoy. Plenty of help will be avaialable if you need it.

I concur that they offer absolutely incredible friendly support every time. It's excellent customer service and very personable. They care and always take care of the customer every time.

#4580 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

You own 13 pins so you must have some technical ability. I’m not that tech savvy either, and I own a WOZ. I’ve had a few issues, but JJP tech support is second to none. Get your grail pin and enjoy. Plenty of help will be avaialable if you need it.

Honestly It is when I have to start to take off mini playfields or lots of upper playfield part that I fall short. My TZ mini playfield have had the center insert light socket burnt out for years. My StarTrek LE STERN put one POP bumper LED half way under the Vengeance Ship Mech . I can live with those issues But WOZ to rebuild a flipper or change the back sling . Castle Door stuck . It may never happen but as many say on here and it is true " Its Pinball" . I guess I am intimidated by WOZ . But I could do it if I put my mind to it . And it was not in my main pinball room were my pinballs are so close together 5 on one wall 4 on the opposite wall . I have to put it in my so called Dining room to have room to work . Its gotten like I am pack rat . My AFM is part way into a closet I took the door off . That LED conversion was hard to do I was like an octopus . I apologize for the non WOZ photos .

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#4581 2 years ago
Quoted from RobKnapp:

Honestly It is when I have to start to take off mini playfields or lots of upper playfield part that I fall short. My TZ mini playfield have had the center insert light socket burnt out for years. My StarTrek LE STERN put one POP bumper LED half way under the Vengeance Ship Mech . I can live with those issues But WOZ to rebuild a flipper or change the back sling . Castle Door stuck . It may never happen but as many say on here and it is true " Its Pinball" . I guess I am intimidated by WOZ . But I could do it if I put my mind to it . And it was not in my main pinball room were my pinballs are so close together 5 on one wall 4 on the opposite wall . I have to put it in my so called Dining room to have room to work .

Wow you have an excellent collection and just keep in mind that there are thousands of these WOZ's out there and if at times on these posts there seem to be a lot of issues it really is not in the grand scheme of things. It's just a good place to congregate to have others to help out. My WOZ is a July 2013 production model and I had a couple things that needed fixed since I have owned it, but JJP took care and it was all very doable. You will be happy that you did get this game and never look back either. It's a game that just stays in a collection and I am a lover of DMD era Bally Williams games too, but this trumps them even.

#4582 2 years ago
Quoted from RobKnapp:

Honestly It is when I have to start to take off mini playfields or lots of upper playfield part that I fall short. My TZ mini playfield have had the center insert light socket burnt out for years. My StarTrek LE STERN put one POP bumper LED half way under the Vengeance Ship Mech . I can live with those issues But WOZ to rebuild a flipper or change the back sling . Castle Door stuck . It may never happen but as many say on here and it is true " Its Pinball" . I guess I am intimidated by WOZ . But I could do it if I put my mind to it . And it was not in my main pinball room were my pinballs are so close together 5 on one wall 4 on the opposite wall . I have to put it in my so called Dining room to have room to work . Its gotten like I am pack rat . My AFM is part way into a closet I took the door off . That LED conversion was hard to do I was like an octopus . I apologize for the non WOZ photos .

I hear you. I get all sweaty and nervous when I have to do something significant like remove a mini playfield. The one thing I will say is that you absolutely need the Munchkin land cliffy protector for the edge. This not only requires removing the miniplayfield but also drilling some holes into it. It made me very, very nervous and taxed all of my handy pinball skills. But believe me, if I could get through it, anyone can. I also find the more I do and see that it is ok in the end, the more confident I get.

#4583 2 years ago
Quoted from RobKnapp:

Honestly It is when I have to start to take off mini playfields or lots of upper playfield part that I fall short. My TZ mini playfield have had the center insert light socket burnt out for years. My StarTrek LE STERN put one POP bumper LED half way under the Vengeance Ship Mech . I can live with those issues But WOZ to rebuild a flipper or change the back sling . Castle Door stuck . It may never happen but as many say on here and it is true " Its Pinball" . I guess I am intimidated by WOZ . But I could do it if I put my mind to it . And it was not in my main pinball room were my pinballs are so close together 5 on one wall 4 on the opposite wall . I have to put it in my so called Dining room to have room to work . Its gotten like I am pack rat . My AFM is part way into a closet I took the door off . That LED conversion was hard to do I was like an octopus . I apologize for the non WOZ photos .

If taking off the upper playfield(s) is what's causing you to sway towards a "no" decision, I would say buy the game!

The other night I had to take my castle playfield off and was crapping bricks beforehand. But I took a few deep breaths, got my manual out, and followed each step slowly and confidently. It really wasn't that hard at all, just time consuming since I went so slow! I got the problem fixed, got to clean the playfield underneath, but unfortunately I disconnected a small wire which resulted in 80% of my playfield lights going out!

Got the light issued fixed with the help of my tech, so life is good now.

Buy the machine. You won't be disappointed.

#4584 2 years ago
Quoted from RobKnapp:

Honestly It is when I have to start to take off mini playfields or lots of upper playfield part that I fall short. My TZ mini playfield have had the center insert light socket burnt out for years. My StarTrek LE STERN put one POP bumper LED half way under the Vengeance Ship Mech . I can live with those issues But WOZ to rebuild a flipper or change the back sling . Castle Door stuck . It may never happen but as many say on here and it is true " Its Pinball" . I guess I am intimidated by WOZ . But I could do it if I put my mind to it . And it was not in my main pinball room were my pinballs are so close together 5 on one wall 4 on the opposite wall . I have to put it in my so called Dining room to have room to work . Its gotten like I am pack rat . My AFM is part way into a closet I took the door off . That LED conversion was hard to do I was like an octopus . I apologize for the non WOZ photos .

I live in Denver's southern suburbs, maybe a 1 hour drive from you. I'm pretty good working on most mechanical issues and most electrical issues. I did a playfield swap in STTNG and TAF, so I've had some good experience. I also keep all the games in my collection maintained and working 100%. The whole point of this is that you should get a WOZ, it's a great game. If you get super stuck on something I'd come help. I agree with the other posts above, get a WOZ RR with 2.0 boards. I got one about 2 weeks ago from Automated Services. I called and spoke to Mike and made it clear I wanted to be 100% sure I would receive a 2.0. I couldn't be happier.

#4585 2 years ago

So my castle door isn't opening again, I assume loose screw again. Any advice on how to secure these doors so I don't have to keep removing this upper playfield??? Maybe thread lock and torque down the screws as tight as I can without breaking them? Seems like ideally the shafts would have flat spots to help hold in place..........Thx

#4586 2 years ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

So my castle door isn't opening again, I assume loose screw again. Any advice on how to secure these doors so I don't have to keep removing this upper playfield??? Maybe thread lock and torque down the screws as tight as I can without breaking them? Seems like ideally the shafts would have flat spots to help hold in place..........Thx

The newer games have the newer motors, these have flattened shafts that wont turn when tightened.

With blue loctite on the screws they dont come loose that easily.
Check if they are loose.
If not then your motor has become weak and needs replacement.
If you order a motor, order mounting screws, door and post screws.

#4587 2 years ago

Winged Monkey Mech Motor Problem - can anyone offer advice? First, I apologize if I'm asking about an issue that this thread or another one on Pinside has covered before. Before posting, I searched for posts and topics that talk about my specific kind of monkey glitch, but I didn't find any. So here it is: my winged monkey motor seems to have become limited to only one direction of movement; it twists only in the direction needed to bring the monkey back up to the castle.

If the monkey is nested at the castle as default position, then when I turn on the machine, the monkey doesn't move at all. (Whereas usually at power-up the monkey should go halfway down and then back up again as a test, just like the house spins at power-up, as I imagine all of you see on your machines too.) And, if the monkey is nested at the castle, then it doesn't move at all during gameplay. (But interestingly if Dorothy is ready for capture and I hit the magnet, the game somehow thinks I actually captured the ball and brought it up to the castle, even though the monkey never moved.) Also, if, again, the monkey is nested at the castle, and I go into Device Test Mode, the monkey won't move at all. But the game can't tell - thinks the test is going fine - and there's no Error Log entry about it.

By contrast, if I manually wind the monkey downward to any degree first by hand, then (1) on power-up, the motor spins and the monkey returns to the castle; and (2) in Device Test Mode, the motor spins and the monkey will move toward the castle. But not in the other direction (toward the magnet) in either case.

As far as I can tell, both wires (black and red) are firmly connected to the motor.

And the rod is lubed. ("That's what she said.")

I'm on OS 6.06. Standard Model/Edition Game # 790/1000 built August 2015. Everything else seems to work fine, other than castle right-door problems (not asking about that here; know it's been discussed pretty thoroughly).

Maybe I just have to replace the motor? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

ltg - I've opened a ticket with Support.

#4588 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballBJB:

I've opened a ticket with Support.

They may have another idea or two to check. I'd measure power to the motor, see if it reverses or not. Then you know the potential of bad motor or bad board it plugs onto.

I'd reseat the motor wires to the board it plugs onto. And be sure the threaded rod has clean, fresh lube on it.

LTG : )

#4589 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

They may have another idea or two to check. I'd measure power to the motor, see if it reverses or not. Then you know the potential of bad motor or bad board it plugs onto.
I'd reseat the motor wires to the board it plugs onto. And be sure the threaded rod has clean, fresh lube on it.
LTG : )

Check to see in switch test if the the top and bottom monkey position switches are in the correct statuses.

#4590 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

They may have another idea or two to check. I'd measure power to the motor, see if it reverses or not. Then you know the potential of bad motor or bad board it plugs onto.
I'd reseat the motor wires to the board it plugs onto. And be sure the threaded rod has clean, fresh lube on it.
LTG : )

ltg Thank you! I'll try these things.

#4591 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Check to see in switch test if the the top and bottom monkey position switches are in the correct statuses.

Thanks dcfan I will check.

#4592 2 years ago

Im having a minor issue with my WOZ.

Once in awhile the ball lock arm wont function at all and balls gang up hehind it untill there are no more with just and endless ball search going on.

I reheated the coil wires, adjusted the stop tab etc. The Arm was just dead.
I reseated the coil connector checked it for continuity, reseated the connectores on the little circuit board etc.
Still dead.

Powered down, got a cup of coffee, works perfectly now.

It has happened a few times, I wonder what would cause this intermittand failure?
Is it a software bug? It happens mostly on super long games...

I noticed once it stopped after a minor power bump. The screen winked for a sec and then the lock bar was dead until a re-boot.

#4593 2 years ago

All in all I've found woz easier to 'maintain' than my 80's and 90's games. A few rubber replacements, switch adjustments, and loose connections. Super easy.

For me with a 'relatively' small collection of 5 games woz gives me a lot of bang for the big bucks. That's me. Listen to your heart. Happy to help in person anyone local to me or drop in when I'm in your town ( I travel a lot in the 48 so try me)

Quoted from RobKnapp:

Honestly It is when I have to start to take off mini playfields or lots of upper playfield part that I fall short. My TZ mini playfield have had the center insert light socket burnt out for years. My StarTrek LE STERN put one POP bumper LED half way under the Vengeance Ship Mech . I can live with those issues But WOZ to rebuild a flipper or change the back sling . Castle Door stuck . It may never happen but as many say on here and it is true " Its Pinball" . I guess I am intimidated by WOZ . But I could do it if I put my mind to it . And it was not in my main pinball room were my pinballs are so close together 5 on one wall 4 on the opposite wall . I have to put it in my so called Dining room to have room to work . Its gotten like I am pack rat . My AFM is part way into a closet I took the door off . That LED conversion was hard to do I was like an octopus . I apologize for the non WOZ photos .

#4594 2 years ago

Im having the same issue with the ball lock arm. Except when i reset the game it doesn’t fix it. Im a brand new owner. Any help would be appreciated.
Harley D.

#4595 2 years ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

Im having the same issue with the ball lock arm. Except when i reset the game it doesn’t fix it. Im a brand new owner. Any help would be appreciated.
Harley D.

Your issue might be diff then. pull the glass and go into test mode. fire the coil for the lock arm with no balls in it. does it work? go to the switch matrix, make sure balls are registering for each position in the lock, do they? Assuming both of these parts are fine.. continue testing, put one ball in the lock, fire the coil.. 2 balls in there, fire the coil.

Report results. trying to figure if something is dead or if the mechanism just needs adjusting.

#4596 2 years ago

Will do, thanks for the help. I will report my findings back.

#4597 2 years ago

My auto-launcher strikes the ball left-of-center (i.e., the launcher needs to move to the right) but it doesn't seem like it's really adjustable. Can anyone recommend any tricks? I'm hoping this will result in fewer launches failing to travel cleanly around to the bumpers.

#4598 2 years ago
Quoted from shiffdog:

Can anyone recommend any tricks?

Loosen screws turn a little.

Be sure playfield hangers aren't bent and plunger lines up with shooter lane good.

LTG : )

#4599 2 years ago

Got my castle door situation figured out. Door was getting stuck on the castle wall mod, but only when a ball was already behind the door and another was trying to lock during a multiplayer game. Long story short, when the monkey was away from the castle, the door would get stuck, so when the monkey tried to drop the new ball off, the old one wouldn't release into the game. So I adjusted the castle wall mod a few millimeters and it works like a charm now.

I love it when it's the simplest of things!

#4600 2 years ago

I have a set of mod fathers castle walls for sale in the market place.

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