(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

6 years ago



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#4501 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

They're discussed and detailed in the thread I posted the link to above. Short version, shoot everything a ridiculous number of times then manage to hit all the rescue targets (loop no longer spots them) then a all-in-one loop and shot to the castle doors (will be open). I've never really even gotten close, especially since the required shots to the crystal ball are both prone to drain if missed and almost always leads to a CB mode that makes the task of hitting all those aforementioned shots even harder. Oh yeah, the right orbits don't count if you hit them during a ball-save auto-launch either. Piece of cake!

wow that's too hard, I'm going to need to up my game.

#4502 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

wow that's too hard, I'm going to need to up my game.

I think very few people are capable of completing Rescue MB. I’m not one of them.

#4503 2 years ago

A few strategies for helping to complete Rescue Multiball (RMB) that I've used are:

1. Build up the number of ball for each RMB so you start with at least 3 preferably 4 or 5
2. Avoid stacking with a crystal ball mode at all costs... to do this I'll typically start a crystal ball mode and then let a ball drain before I start RMB
3. Do have 1 or 2 locks lit for Emerald City Multiball (ECMB) but not all 3... that way you can start RMB... get 3 shots to the ramp (for the 3x jackpot) and then likely be cued up so that 1 more shot will start ECMB stacking on top of RMB... but you save that until you are down to last ball from RMB... to restart it if you can do it quick.
4. Have the glinda target setup for a multiball restart if at all possible (i.e. don't have the last glinda award be that)
5. During RMB get the castle drop target/vuk to triple jackpot as soon as possible. Then the drop target will be down and you can collect letters on the playfield... and send balls up there to get them out of the way.
6. I personally avoid the super jackpots... I do try to collect letters on the castle playfield... but I don't want to reset a shot that only needs one more hit to get the triple jackpot (i'm thinking of the left orbit and crystal balls shots specifically here as I find those the most difficult).
7. Cradle two balls on left flipper and the crystal ball shot is easy to backhand... but only do it 2x in a row or you'll get no hold flippers.
8. Once all letters are lit (blinking or not) trap on the left flipper... and use right flipper only to get ball to castle VUK, collect blinking letters... and then do the orbit / door shot for the award.

Obviously, ball control is critical in all of the above.

All that said and done... it is a bitch to complete but so rewarding when you do.

#4504 2 years ago

No turning back now. LTG : )

WOZLEDs (resized).JPG

#4505 2 years ago
Quoted from tiesmasc:

A few strategies for helping to complete Rescue Multiball (RMB) that I've used are:
1. Build up the number of ball for each RMB so you start with at least 3 preferably 4 or 5
2. Avoid stacking with a crystal ball mode at all costs... to do this I'll typically start a crystal ball mode and then let a ball drain before I start RMB
3. Do have 1 or 2 locks lit for Emerald City Multiball (ECMB) but not all 3... that way you can start RMB... get 3 shots to the ramp (for the 3x jackpot) and then likely be cued up so that 1 more shot will start ECMB stacking on top of RMB... but you save that until you are down to last ball from RMB... to restart it if you can do it quick.
4. Have the glinda target setup for a multiball restart if at all possible (i.e. don't have the last glinda award be that)
5. During RMB get the castle drop target/vuk to triple jackpot as soon as possible. Then the drop target will be down and you can collect letters on the playfield... and send balls up there to get them out of the way.
6. I personally avoid the super jackpots... I do try to collect letters on the castle playfield... but I don't want to reset a shot that only needs one more hit to get the triple jackpot (i'm thinking of the left orbit and crystal balls shots specifically here as I find those the most difficult).
7. Cradle two balls on left flipper and the crystal ball shot is easy to backhand... but only do it 2x in a row or you'll get no hold flippers.
8. Once all letters are lit (blinking or not) trap on the left flipper... and use right flipper only to get ball to castle VUK, collect blinking letters... and then do the orbit / door shot for the award.
Obviously, ball control is critical in all of the above.
All that said and done... it is a bitch to complete but so rewarding when you do.

Thanks. It’s almost like a complete game within a game, I mean the rules are so deep just for this almost like a full on wizard mode.

#4506 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

No turning back now. LTG : )

Are you converting to the new lighting?

#4507 2 years ago
Quoted from clg:

Are you converting to the new lighting?

Yes. The kits will be available soon. I need to be prepared if anyone needs help. Butch Peel has done a good job with instructions. So I don't think there will be many calls.

LTG : )

WOZ2point0 (resized).JPG

#4508 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yes. The kits will be available soon. I need to be prepared if anyone needs help. Butch Peel has done a good job with instructions. So I don't think there will be many calls.
LTG : )

Does it still require drilling the playfield?

#4509 2 years ago

I can't wait the new lights Will be fantastic what will the cost be

#4510 2 years ago

I don’t think it’s locked down yet but less than 1k

#4511 2 years ago

My RR WOZ came with 2.0 lights. Looks well designed.

#4512 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yes. The kits will be available soon. I need to be prepared if anyone needs help. Butch Peel has done a good job with instructions. So I don't think there will be many calls.
LTG : )

can't wait - my game has been plauged from the inception don't love shelling out the money but love that a fix is in works.

#4513 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Does it still require drilling the playfield?

Make the GI tubes bigger - no.

Pilot holes for the GI boards and frames for the bag and hub boards, yes.

LTG : )

#4514 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Make the GI tubes bigger - no.
Pilot holes for the GI boards and frames for the bag and hub boards, yes.
LTG : )

That is good news.

#4515 2 years ago

I've gotten the Mega Jackpot lit on RESCUE about 8 times now. Twice in one game even. STILL have never actually made the last shot. Possibly nerves or just bad luck there. I think if I ever get it done, I'll be able to get to the true wizard mode in that game though. Most of my games are going 5-6 gems now. If I had the Mega Gem I really think I could focus and get whatever other gem was missing with little problem.

That Mega though, calling it insanely difficult is still selling it short.

#4516 2 years ago

Work on WOZ continues.

LTG : )

WOZContinues (resized).JPG

#4517 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Work on WOZ continues.
LTG : )

When your done, will you come and do mine? Practice makes perfect.

#4518 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Work on WOZ continues.
LTG : )

When you finish Lloyd give us an idea on how long it took you, so I can x4 and know how long it will take me.

#4519 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Don't worry about the connector.
Drop target - go into Tests - switches - matrixed, see if the drop target switch works. May need adjusting.
LTG : )

Yep, the switch needed to be adjusted a bit, it thought the target was always up even when it was down, so tweaked the switch a bit and now it's working.

#4520 2 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

When your done, will you come and do mine? Practice makes perfect.

Love to. You moving to Minnesota ?

Quoted from DeathHimself:

When you finish Lloyd give us an idea on how long it took you, so I can x4 and know how long it will take me.

I'm not pushing straight through. So my time would be off. I'm told about 8 to 10 hours.

LTG : )

#4521 2 years ago

Joining the club very soon. Just purchased WOZ RR edition. A while back, was there not a guide on what adjustments and other things you needed to do before playing WOZ?

#4522 2 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

When you finish Lloyd give us an idea on how long it took you, so I can x4 and know how long it will take me.

I was thinking the same thing. I would love to know how long this takes all in.

#4523 2 years ago
Quoted from knobstone:

Joining the club very soon. Just purchased WOZ RR edition. A while back, was there not a guide on what adjustments and other things you needed to do before playing WOZ?

Did you request a 2.0 version???

#4524 2 years ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

Did you request a 2.0 version???

No, this is a WOZ with a build date of 10/14. I believe it has the 7.5 boards. I will probably buy the 2.0 kit when it's available.

#4525 2 years ago

Right castle door won't open and also getting an alert to check the castle flipper EOS switch. So I guess I need to remove that play field. does anyone have documentation on that process? Also, any advice on what to look for on these 2 issues? Thx

#4526 2 years ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

Right castle door won't open and also getting an alert to check the castle flipper EOS switch. So I guess I need to remove that play field. does anyone have documentation on that process? Also, any advice on what to look for on these 2 issues? Thx

Documentation for removing both mini playfields is in the owner's manual.

#4527 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Documentation for removing both mini playfields is in the owner's manual.
Bob K.

Ah ha! There it is, thx

#4528 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Don't worry about the connector.
Drop target - go into Tests - switches - matrixed, see if the drop target switch works. May need adjusting.
LTG : )

So that connector is for the castle flipper EOS switch, which I am getting an alert on to check......Shouldn't it be connected somewhere?
Also The right castle door isn't opening, looks like that is directly connected to a motor, so is the motor faulty?

#4529 2 years ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

So that connector is for the castle flipper EOS switch, which I am getting an alert on to check......Shouldn't it be connected somewhere?

If it is for the castle flipper EOS, yes, it goes somewhere. From back of the metal box up to the underside of the castle playfield.

Quoted from WackyBrakke:

Also The right castle door isn't opening, looks like that is directly connected to a motor, so is the motor faulty?

Listen to it, if it sounds like the motor is turning. Then the set screws holding the door shaft to the motor are loose. Remove door, remove castle playfield, drop motor assembly down to get access to them.

LTG : )

#4530 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

If it is for the castle flipper EOS, yes, it goes somewhere. From back of the metal box up to the underside of the castle playfield.

Listen to it, if it sounds like the motor is turning. Then the set screws holding the door shaft to the motor are loose. Remove door, remove castle playfield, drop motor assembly down to get access to them.
LTG : )

Ah, found where the EOS switch wires plug in, connector was hidden in a bundle of wires.

#4531 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

If it is for the castle flipper EOS, yes, it goes somewhere. From back of the metal box up to the underside of the castle playfield.

Listen to it, if it sounds like the motor is turning. Then the set screws holding the door shaft to the motor are loose. Remove door, remove castle playfield, drop motor assembly down to get access to them.
LTG : )

AND Castle door works again! Tightened the screws on the motor shaft and now it's a-ok! I'm back in action! Thanks LTG

#4532 2 years ago
Quoted from tiesmasc:

A few strategies for helping to complete Rescue Multiball (RMB) that I've used are:
1. Build up the number of ball for each RMB so you start with at least 3 preferably 4 or 5
2. Avoid stacking with a crystal ball mode at all costs... to do this I'll typically start a crystal ball mode and then let a ball drain before I start RMB
3. Do have 1 or 2 locks lit for Emerald City Multiball (ECMB) but not all 3... that way you can start RMB... get 3 shots to the ramp (for the 3x jackpot) and then likely be cued up so that 1 more shot will start ECMB stacking on top of RMB... but you save that until you are down to last ball from RMB... to restart it if you can do it quick.
4. Have the glinda target setup for a multiball restart if at all possible (i.e. don't have the last glinda award be that)
5. During RMB get the castle drop target/vuk to triple jackpot as soon as possible. Then the drop target will be down and you can collect letters on the playfield... and send balls up there to get them out of the way.
6. I personally avoid the super jackpots... I do try to collect letters on the castle playfield... but I don't want to reset a shot that only needs one more hit to get the triple jackpot (i'm thinking of the left orbit and crystal balls shots specifically here as I find those the most difficult).
7. Cradle two balls on left flipper and the crystal ball shot is easy to backhand... but only do it 2x in a row or you'll get no hold flippers.
8. Once all letters are lit (blinking or not) trap on the left flipper... and use right flipper only to get ball to castle VUK, collect blinking letters... and then do the orbit / door shot for the award.
Obviously, ball control is critical in all of the above.
All that said and done... it is a bitch to complete but so rewarding when you do.

These are all good strategies but I will say that I've not figured out how to backhand the crystal ball with two balls cradled on the left, it just does not work for me. It's true I have a very tough time getting two cradled on either flipper on my game so I've not had many shots at it. I spent a few hours the last couple nights working on trying to finish Rescue MB and changing the way I'd normally go about playing accordingly. I only needed the U and E after my first run at it one game, had three balls left and thought for sure I'd get there - nope, completely fell apart the 2nd time I got it started and then lost balls trying to run out CB modes before starting it on my next two balls. It is also gets progressively much harder just to get rescue lit in order to start the MB each time, by the third one it takes so many search orbits that it's just repetitive and taxing.

If you want to watch a few knuckleheads try to beat it (and other modes) on 5 ball with lots of extras given out (and likely still fail miserably) chuckwurt is doing his SDTM stream on my game tonight: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/chuckwurt-streaming-with-sdtm-pinball/page/2#post-4063509

#4533 2 years ago

help, I'm having two issues that have just started occurring on my RR Woz.

1) I adjusted the coil strength down because it was having trouble ejecting into the shooter lane, and it started working fine that is until today when this is happening:

the ball will be ejected from the shooter lane and I will be playing the game and all of the sudden another ball will be put in the shooter lane and will be auto-launched into play, and when I drain one ball it will end the ball. So I am thinking something to do with the ball trough.

2) I was having a small issue with the ball lock mech where it would drop out two balls instead of one such as when you shoot a ball up and there was already one locked. This has evolved into a situation where the ball lock (U shaped metal fork) will just all of the sudden start popping up and down for no reason and sometimes will pop up when I press the left flipper button to the full position, not the staged position. And also one time got the ball in this lock when it was not supposed to be and it was just stuck without any notion that the ball was locked so it needed a full ball search to be freed.

#4534 2 years ago

2) - You can go into Settings and scroll down to ball lock one, two, three. And adjust timing there. More or less as needed.

1) - Ball jam opto flaky ? Shooter lane switch stuck down ?

LTG : )

#4535 2 years ago

Hey - take a look in from the right side at the solder joints on the lock release coil. You could have a broken solder joint where the wire is still in place but subject to vibration. I’ve seen that cause your repeated lock arm open and close issue.

-1
#4536 2 years ago

I wanted to share some before and after pics and a video of WOZ with the Pin Stadium lights installed. Many have installed these on there machines, but I have received several emails asking about being able to adjust them so I am posting this up here. The colored (these give the color cast) and white lights (this is what provides the illumination) are independently adjustable from 0-100% for brightness inside the Pin Stadium app. This way you can dial it into your liking and still create a nice eerie glow while being able to see the playfield too!

The lights generate their own Wifi signal so that you can connect to them with the app. This is plug and play custom designed setup for WOZ, no surgery involved and about a 15 minute install time. If you have any questions feel free to shoot me an email at scott@pinstadium.com and visit www.pinstadium.com also for more information:

wizard of oz UV+Glow (resized).jpg

wizard of oz_pinball_led (resized).jpg

#4537 2 years ago

I developed a problem with my WOZ yesterday. First when I powered the game up none of the playfield lights would come on. A reboot got them back on except for the first T in Toto. Reseated connectors to and from board 25 to no avail, although for a brief moment I thought I saw it come on. Replaced it with a spare board I had (not 100% it was good since it was left over by the previous owner) and it still didn't work. I then noticed that the led on board 26 was off, I think the throne room led according to the manual. In my attempt to reseat the cables I managed to somehow break one of them. Besides ordering another cable and at least one new GI board can anyone suggest if I should order anything else, or how to further diagnose the problem once I get the cable to do so? I'm really not too good in this...

#4538 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

help, I'm having two issues that have just started occurring on my RR Woz.
1) I adjusted the coil strength down because it was having trouble ejecting into the shooter lane, and it started working fine that is until today when this is happening:
the ball will be ejected from the shooter lane and I will be playing the game and all of the sudden another ball will be put in the shooter lane and will be auto-launched into play, and when I drain one ball it will end the ball. So I am thinking something to do with the ball trough.
2) I was having a small issue with the ball lock mech where it would drop out two balls instead of one such as when you shoot a ball up and there was already one locked. This has evolved into a situation where the ball lock (U shaped metal fork) will just all of the sudden start popping up and down for no reason and sometimes will pop up when I press the left flipper button to the full position, not the staged position. And also one time got the ball in this lock when it was not supposed to be and it was just stuck without any notion that the ball was locked so it needed a full ball search to be freed.

Helping Phil today I observed this issue and wanted to see how to troubleshoot. First time working on a JJP...

That ball lock mech def has a mind of its own. Would go up or down for 30 seconds non stop sometimes. Other times it would be in the down position and whenever he hit left flipper it would go up and down...What was weird is that it did not happen on right flipper. On a B/W pin I would suspect a flaky opto or switch causing the issue. Ive never worked on a Woz but was thinking about the 3 bank opto where balls rest when locked? thinking a flaky opto or cold solder? Any help would be appreciated. Great pin by the way!

#4539 2 years ago

Two things: under the playfield is an opto control board (in this case the right side one) - the lock optos are the first three plugs (starting with Black in the front). Make sure they are all pushed in tight (they click into place). Put the game in matrix switches test and tap your fist between the slingshots on the playfield to create vibration with no balls in the lock. See if the vibration causes one opto to read off and on.
Two: look in from the right side at the lock coil (under the munchkin hut decoration) - I have often seen the solder detach from the coil tabs but stay through the hole (the wire does) so that vibration makes the wire connection intermittent and thus the lock arm repeatedly goes up and down.

#4540 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Two things: under the playfield is an opto control board (in this case the right side one) - the lock optos are the first three plugs (starting with Black in the front). Make sure they are all pushed in tight (they click into place). Put the game in matrix switches test and tap your fist between the slingshots on the playfield to create vibration with no balls in the lock. See if the vibration causes one opto to read off and on.
Two: look in from the right side at the lock coil (under the munchkin hut decoration) - I have often seen the solder detach from the coil tabs but stay through the hole (the wire does) so that vibration makes the wire connection intermittent and thus the lock arm repeatedly goes up and down.

Thx. The wire looked solid on lugs. I can reflow. But the under pf boards sounds like it

#4541 2 years ago

I just installed a new led strip under the clear wizard acrylic. I ordered 2 from JJPs web site....I just installed and the new one is cool white rather than green??? Just wonder if anyone could tell me if this is the correct replacement or is there a mix up? Anyone else have this problem? Thanks

20171112_114156 (resized).jpg

20171112_114142 (resized).jpg

#4542 2 years ago

I also notic ed they don't line up right under the acrylic . It is placed all the way forward against the bracket and the leds are somewhat behind the wizard acrylic! I'm hoping they have a better replacement and this is a mistake

20171112_114208 (resized).jpg

#4543 2 years ago
Quoted from msj2222:

I also notic ed they don't line up right under the acrylic . It is placed all the way forward against the bracket and the leds are somewhat behind the wizard acrylic! I'm hoping they have a better replacement and this is a mistake

Mine doesn’t line up perfectly, but mine is definitely green.

#4545 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Mine doesn’t line up perfectly, but mine is definitely green.

When did you get your replacement?

#4546 2 years ago

Sorry. It wasn’t a replacement. I meant my original one never lined up perfectly.

#4547 2 years ago

I replaced mine just a few months ago. Fit well and was definitely green. I would write JJP Tech Support. Does indeed seem like the wrong part. Wizard needs to be green!

#4548 2 years ago
Quoted from lschmidlin:

I replaced mine just a few months ago. Fit well and was definitely green. I would write JJP Tech Support. Does indeed seem like the wrong part. Wizard needs to be green!

YA, I know...I hate the white.

#4549 2 years ago

This weekend I had to replace another right castle door motor.
This makes 3. In my case they last about 18 months before hanging 2/3 open.

My game gets a lot of play, I have just over 6000 plays on it.

I had it replaced in 45 mins Now I have to get a couple more from JJP as I used my last one.
Im getting better at it.

While the mini PF was out I replaced the coil stop plunger and sleeve. They were not too badly worn, I just had the parts available and rebuilt the flipper assembly.
There was no wear at all on the EOS switch or anything really, but the coil sleeve was pretty loaded up with black dust.
The castle flipper is way stronger now, I had to turn it down 2 notches.

#4550 2 years ago

One of my castle doors was sticking, so I decided to remove the castle playfield and see what was going on. Was able to finally tighten it up and it works great now, but in the process of unplugging all the connectors I broke one tiny wire off on board #13. It's one of the five wires in J101, I believe which is the "IN" connector (if I'm reading it correctly).

Now about 80% of my playfield lights are out (all near the bottom portion of the playfield). Am I to believe that this is happening because all the boards are chained together, so if one has an issue, all of the boards beyond that one on the chain will no longer work? And if I fix the connection, the lights will work again?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

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