Cool

Is that really a thing? A real us $2 bill? How did I miss that?

Those have been around for at least 40 years (current design for bicentennial I believe), but I was heretofore unaware of the Woz one.

https://www.amazon.com/OFFICIALLY-LICENSED-Certificate-Merrick-Mint/dp/B01NBCKDFE

The real ones are still made new and available at banks. They work great for tooth fairies, for example.

Mine did the exact same thing after about 30 games new out of the box!

Now you just to need to start your game with these
https://www.amazon.com/WIZARD-Kansas-Statehood-Quarter-Licensed/dp/B00GNH1VJ8/ref=pd_bxgy_21_img_2

I thought it said 'Shoot that steed" as in a horse.

It actually refers to the pinball as bobukcat stated.

When only one hurryup is running, Professor Marvel will call out that one shot ("The drop target!" "The crystal ball!" etc.). When more than one thing is lit at once, there's a few phrases he'll say, including that one, "Time is a factor," etc.

Marvel had an actual affinity for alliteration if you couldn't tell.

I'm actually dying because my game is at the shipping depot and I need a delivery window and I don't have anyone to receive it hopefully Friday we can accept it.

I'm going to add it to my collection because it's so close.

Metal flap pushing in the two white switches probably needs bending to do a better job. Assuming the coin door harness isn't in the way of the flap and switches.

LTG : )

Please open a ticket on the support desk at jerseyjackpinball.com they'll get you what you need.

LTG : )

I actually reached out to Britemods and Dan replied back to me saying that he has the configuration and is going to start making them soon.

I think I’m gonna give Britemods a try for woz... I did a diy red transparent flipper button mod on MMr and bought red 1 smd flexible red leds thinking red led’s wouldn’t show/ bleed through as much on the side of the apron, but the red leds don’t light up the red buttons as bright as I would want. Has anyone made or designed a cool guard to hide the light bleed through?

93317E2F-4355-45D6-B793-AC4F27C3BAF3 (resized).jpeg

https://www.shapeways.com/product/3ASMJM974/flipperlightblocker?optionId=42514408

Black electrical tape

Do you just cut those down to fit your particular machine?

I don't know. I would have thought they work with any game that you put lighted flipper buttons in. I doubt it would be difficult to cut them with kitchen scissors if they are too big.

Maybe PM Wolfmarsh.

I also suspect there is probably something available at the hardware store that has a 90 degree bend that would work after cutting a little. I personally have been using one side of a piece of velcro for my games. Velcro is not perfect but does significantly reduce the light bleed.

Stern was hacked see link for details and how to safe guard your computer and identity.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-hacked-do-not-open-invoice-emails-from-stern#post-3975943

Don't know if everyone knows of this site but it is pretty cool you can upload your serial and see a little history (if any) of your game(s).

http://www.ipsnd.net/

Fingers and toes crossed that today my Woz will be delivered today.

I've been a pinball owner for 13 years and never been as excited as I am about Woz.

I was never super excited about Woz for the first couple of years but it's been slowly building up in my mind since I played a nice RR last year.

I've never owned a jjp game or looked at the menu control

Is there a video tutorial or is it just like other pinball option 3 buttons?

4 buttons inside the door. Back, Select (up), Select (Down), and Enter
If you can use a DVD remote, you can figure out this menu system.

I want to write down my audits etc..

Does it save audits past an update?

Before I do any update. I go to Utilities and plug in a USB stick and do setting back up, then after update go back in and restore. That seems to save everything. Settings you made, scores, etc.

LTG : )

That's nifty, can you do that with Stern SAM system?

I don't think so.

LTG : )

Officially in the club.

I can't believe how nice it is.

I'm the second owner but it's a only 6 months old, has 900 plays but looks 'like new'.

Can't believe how beautiful it is.

I've played Woz before but never looked up close lifted the PF the supports are so nice, JJP really does it right.

It's the most expensive pin I've owned but looks to be worth every penny. I got a great deal so it was not much more than what I sold my STLE for, but it feels much nicer in every way.

I tried to capture a picture of the RadCal in the third picture.

I only played a couple games, still learning the rules but just spectacular.
IMG_3311 (resized).JPGIMG_3318 (resized).JPGIMG_3319 (resized).JPGIMG_3317 (resized).JPG

Nice! Congrats man. Finally!

I posted a couple videos of the Pin Stadium kit in my WOZ over in the PS thread in case anyone is considering it as a way to improve GI: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-pin-stadium-lights-official-announcement/page/11#post-3979529

I am going to go look at a WOZ, what issues should I be on the lookout for?

Nice pickup & congrats!!!

Munchkinland PF edge - does it have a protector on it and / or chipping of the clear / art? Same with the area around the pops. Light board issues, go into ordered LED test and run each through on every color, make sure there's no flickering of the LEDs in attract mode and let it warm up for a while. They can be fine when first started and flake out when they get warmer. Has the power supply been swapped out with the larger L9 inductor (look for a sticker that says L9) on the PC box.

Flying monkey mech is smooth and stable or has a little grease on the all-thread.
Right castle door is working correctly, doesnt get trapped or stuck crooked in game play or stays partly open.
Crystal ball has a good correct image on it.
All switches work (tested with a ball).
Flippers have no mechanical binding.

LED's change color correctly in LED test.

new to JJP ownership so its hard to get adjusted to waiting for the machine to boot up.

So my new idea is to play a quick game of IM as the computer goes about it's business.

IMG_3326 (resized).JPG

The piece that connects the Monkey screw drive to the motor shaft spins freely and looking for a permanent solution. I can push the coupling towards the screw side and it will grab it for a while, but will eventually spin freely, gets old.

Clear rubber tubing between the motor and threaded rod. Hardware store or pet store should have it.

If you have the original plastic coupling, check the diagram in the current manual for the change above.

LTG : )

Is it part 12?

monkeymech (resized).JPG

so I might have my first light issue. All of a sudden no rainbow target lights and no light for lion. Any suggestions to check before I call JJP for a potential replacement board (I guess?). Thanks

Looks like LED 1 through 34 based on individual led test. Starts with rainbow letters.

Yes. I play a game of quick-booting GOT while waiting for my JJPs to boot

Reseat the connectors to those boards and the board upstream in the chain. Also make sure the shaft on the munchkinland flipper isn't hitting those wires. If you still have an issue, call JJP.

Yes. A few years back changed to rubber tubing.

LTG : )

Thanks - just did. A no go. First time I've had any light issues (1.75 or whatever the ones are after original - not 2.0). I'll call them thanks

So interesting update. The W4 board is the one that first starts having issue (only 1 light on there is working perfectly. I checked manual and the one before that is 26. I reseating 26 and W4 and now some of the lights on W4 and up the chain (W10 - rainbow targets) are now ON BUT they don't change color - just stay white. Thoughts?

btw - I believe 26 controls the throne room GI only and if so that works fine on test so must be W4 that shows the first sign of issues.

Lloyd - is this all correct? Wasn't sure if W4 or 26 needs to be replaced but think it would be W4 based on above. It's weird though that after I reseated 26, the lights that didn't work (some of them) were on but just white....

For those who may be interested and want another option, we are offering a color changing rgb backbox mod. Much more vivid in person, very sharp.

Not on our site yet, but will be later today.

$45 shipped.

I have something happen that seems wrong. I had a ball locked (via winged monkey) but my game ended and the ball was not released, so the next game went to lock a ball into the castle and instead of locking one and releasing one, I got both balls in play and no ball locked.

Is this something wrong or something I need to change in the menu?

I did press start during the match sequence so maybe it would have released the ball IDK?

I am really enjoying this pin, it's faster than I had expected. It can be stop and go but there are times that the ball really moves and even in it's "slower" times there it's still not floaty at all.

What settings should I consider?

I have set everything to medium and TNPLH to easy meaning hit any rainbow target to start (not each specific letter) and progress is held, set Toto up to 3 times if successful.

Set ball save to 7 seconds and tilt warning to 2 per ball.

If you hit start during the match sequence, it will start a new game without releasing locked balls. That said, the game should still release the castle one before locking another so something seems off. Probably just a minor adjustment, but I'm not sure what. Others will hopefully know.

I started out setting TNPLH rainbow targets to easy, but have since upped the difficulty. I enjoy the challenge of having to hit each target. I've only completed TNPLH a half dozen times in probably a thousand games. It is hard, and I like it that way. Save Toto is much more doable -- at least the first one.